Ron, so many people I've talked with are so intimidated by craftsman & laser cut kits, (I was too, but I broke down and built one and now I love them!) This is a good project for those who feel intimidated by higher price kits. Once you gain confidence building a few plastic kits, I think, (at least for me) it makes it easier to want to investigate laser cut & craftsman kits. A little tip for getting acrylics to stick to kit plastic, either primer the pieces with a flat color, even clear spray. Acrylics need something to hang onto, which you discovered after painting you flat base color. Hope this becomes a build series, would like this to be a diorama as folks need to see how a run of the miill kit can be made spectacular with some effort. I'll be watching!!
This kit is going all the way to diorama and probably my first functional module for the OSS (a new group I might start, probably start, who the f knows). If I could afford a kit a month I'd do the series in the fall.
Some 1-2-3 blocks would help hold the walls vertical & square as you build the structure. I ordered a set and the damn post office lost them. I just finished a Walthers Cornerstone chicken coops and farm buildings kit. It was a fun build and I learned quite a lot from doing it. I waited until I had finished building the kit to paint it and now I will change all that. I'll start painting parts on the sprues before final painting. Cheers from eastern TN
Painting plastic isn't difficult with acrylic paint. Either wash the parts to remove the release agent or spray a primer on. But hey, whatever works for you is the way to go. Keep up the nice work.
That is a nice LARGE kit!!! Sorry to disagree with you there Ron-O ... but plastic models are easy-peasy to assemble! Even the most complex kits go together very easily. Use Faller Expert styrene cement for assembly, or even MEK Solvent! As for painting ... hell, Acrylic paint goes on and stays on wherever or whenever I use it. I've been building plastic kits of ALL sorts since I was a kid, and at 62 that's a LONG time ... you name it ... Monsters, Animals, Birds, Buildings, Static Model Locomotives, Cars, Planes and Ships. As the line in the movie 'The Graduate' says ... "One word ... Plastics!"
I also feel the glue in a tube is worthless. I use a mix of MEK and Acetone, 3 parts MEK and 1 Acetone. Use a small natural paint brush and let capillary action pull it into the joint. It will harden in a couple of minutes. If the Joint has a rattle to it (some part did not bond well) just add a little more MEK mix. If you get some where you don't want it, DON'T touch it. Just let it evaporate. You will only have a dull spot. Paint will fix that. The worst thing is to get a finger print or a smear. So don't touch.
@@RonPare I just looked at their website and it only shows one building for some reason. If I could I would use the lumber mill you built in your video if it was the right scale.
Always! And I mean it! Always contact them. They are down to earth and I wish I remember his name their designer guy. It’s family owned, the guy I’m talking about is working for the family. They have them. And if you are friendly they will make some for you. It’s a file and a laser they have them. If not I’ll see if I can find the materials. Z scale models are so easy to make.
acrylic paints will attach to plastic pieces. What I do is spray all the plastic pieces with frosted glass clear coat and let it dry. Then I brush on the acrylic paint thickly on the plastic pieces and then wipe it off right away making sure not to wipe to hard so I don't remove the paint from the cracks. Then I clear coat w/ flat or frosted glass clear coat to seal in the acrylic. I have pictures on my instagram if you want to see how weathering looks. Instagram = brian.olee.krause
Very helpful video. I was shopping around for Sawmills and scene the same exact one on eBay and researched it. I found your video and watched it and it helped me pull the trigger on buying my own. I'm currently assembling mine. Thanks again for making the video👍👍
Thanks for sharing. I have a grain elevator to build from Walthers and it will be my first plastic kit. Your painting tip for acrylics will help. Randy
Haha, I thought to myself where these plastic kits lack the personal investment I get from a longterm build on a wood kit. They do allow me to feel some accomplishment in a short period of time. Thanks for commenting, thanks a lot!!!
The one difference I appreciate beyond all others is this. If you don't respect to the wood kit it won't work. This plastic stuff can get run over by the truck and still work. It is because of this I like wood kits so much. It is always a battle of will.
Hey Ron ,what exactly is your mix for your handy dandy concrete mix ? For my concrete I use a mix of grays and buffs (Tamiya acrylics) works out nice ,but always good to know what others use. I`ve built a few Walthers N scale cornerstone kits and rather like them ,nice and easy to build but the magic happens during painting and custom touches.I also do a lot of scratch building...my true passion. This is probably the first time you didn`t use Weldbond on a build...although I see 3 jugs off camera just waiting to be used LOL Just as a note ,I wash my plastic parts ,be it a kit or scratch building with alcohol.Tamiya paint sticks well afterwards with no adhesion problems.I used to always use enamels and lacquer through the airbrush during my model airplane building days ,but made the switch to acrylics when I got into model railroading (never thought I would).Now I love them ,no smell,easy cleanup and fast drying(hairdryer works great, like I see you do too) Very nice build ,has that Ron touch to it !! Still like your woodkits/artisan kit builds the best. Salut!
Pual I am fixing to live stream again when the studio is done. I expect that we will have lots to discuss. The shop concrete is simply Lowes matched aged concrete in a quart. Thanks for watching
Hey Ron nice job on that sawmill...i built a quite a few plastic kits and was scared of wood...I watched you build a few and i tried it...now thats all i've been doing haven't touched a plastic kit in over two years lol...TY for all your how-tos I've learned a lot from them Tom
LOL I'm just a middle aged guy with ADD or whatever it is ;) My local bar knows this I come in, beer is ready, I'm given remote to the tv behind bar and I spend time straightening up coasters, aligning the catsup, mustard, salt, pepper/paper towel dispenser. Its my thing. Same in house, family can't stand me hehehe. I have to say my model train table is immaculate however. I even paint on cardboard etc, can't leave a mess ROFL. But I occasionally spill a drink if too full or I'm toasted. ;)
![ลองสั่งของจากแอพ temu ถูกจริงหรอ?? [โกงไหมครับ ep.88 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RTcZSQTiDZw/mqdefault.jpg)
Ron, so many people I've talked with are so intimidated by craftsman & laser cut kits, (I was too, but I broke down and built one and now I love them!) This is a good project for those who feel intimidated by higher price kits. Once you gain confidence building a few plastic kits, I think, (at least for me) it makes it easier to want to investigate laser cut & craftsman kits. A little tip for getting acrylics to stick to kit plastic, either primer the pieces with a flat color, even clear spray. Acrylics need something to hang onto, which you discovered after painting you flat base color. Hope this becomes a build series, would like this to be a diorama as folks need to see how a run of the miill kit can be made spectacular with some effort. I'll be watching!!
This kit is going all the way to diorama and probably my first functional module for the OSS (a new group I might start, probably start, who the f knows). If I could afford a kit a month I'd do the series in the fall.
Nicely done,,thanks for sharing..
Thanks for watching!
Some 1-2-3 blocks would help hold the walls vertical & square as you build the structure. I ordered a set and the damn post office lost them. I just finished a Walthers Cornerstone chicken coops and farm buildings kit. It was a fun build and I learned quite a lot from doing it. I waited until I had finished building the kit to paint it and now I will change all that. I'll start painting parts on the sprues before final painting. Cheers from eastern TN
I finally got a set of blocks and they rusted up immediately. lol I just laughed as this is typical these days
Painting plastic isn't difficult with acrylic paint. Either wash the parts to remove the release agent or spray a primer on. But hey, whatever works for you is the way to go. Keep up the nice work.
Thanks for the tips!
The best glue I used more my model building is called plastic weld works really good you can do the walls and joints and it sets in seconds
Yeah the funny thing is this is the one and only plastic kit I ever built. Over a hundred wood structures and one plastic lol
That is a nice LARGE kit!!!
Sorry to disagree with you there Ron-O ... but plastic models are easy-peasy to assemble! Even the most complex kits go together very easily. Use Faller Expert styrene cement for assembly, or even MEK Solvent! As for painting ... hell, Acrylic paint goes on and stays on wherever or whenever I use it. I've been building plastic kits of ALL sorts since I was a kid, and at 62 that's a LONG time ... you name it ... Monsters, Animals, Birds, Buildings, Static Model Locomotives, Cars, Planes and Ships. As the line in the movie 'The Graduate' says ... "One word ... Plastics!"
Its OK to disagree. I have been wrong before
As have I! Live and learn ... ;)
I also feel the glue in a tube is worthless. I use a mix of MEK and Acetone, 3 parts MEK and 1 Acetone. Use a small natural paint brush and let capillary action pull it into the joint. It will harden in a couple of minutes. If the Joint has a rattle to it (some part did not bond well) just add a little more MEK mix.
If you get some where you don't want it, DON'T touch it. Just let it evaporate. You will only have a dull spot. Paint will fix that. The worst thing is to get a finger print or a smear. So don't touch.
Great video but I was just wondering what scale this lot is. I’m planning on making a sawmill/west coast style train diorama in Z scale.
Check out micro trains, they used to have a line of nice kits. I built e few zscale kits from them.
@@RonPare I just looked at their website and it only shows one building for some reason. If I could I would use the lumber mill you built in your video if it was the right scale.
Always! And I mean it! Always contact them. They are down to earth and I wish I remember his name their designer guy. It’s family owned, the guy I’m talking about is working for the family.
They have them. And if you are friendly they will make some for you. It’s a file and a laser they have them. If not I’ll see if I can find the materials. Z scale models are so easy to make.
All companies that are not family owned that is
@@Modelersguild thanks so much for the help!
acrylic paints will attach to plastic pieces. What I do is spray all the plastic pieces with frosted glass clear coat and let it dry. Then I brush on the acrylic paint thickly on the plastic pieces and then wipe it off right away making sure not to wipe to hard so I don't remove the paint from the cracks. Then I clear coat w/ flat or frosted glass clear coat to seal in the acrylic. I have pictures on my instagram if you want to see how weathering looks.
Instagram = brian.olee.krause
there is a good series for you to do.. how to build cornerstone kits.. so many of them out there.. and like you said a day.
Ha, maybe after I sell the module. Budget is razor thin as usual.
Very helpful video. I was shopping around for Sawmills and scene the same exact one on eBay and researched it. I found your video and watched it and it helped me pull the trigger on buying my own. I'm currently assembling mine. Thanks again for making the video👍👍
Thanks for sharing. I have a grain elevator to build from Walthers and it will be my first plastic kit. Your painting tip for acrylics will help. Randy
First, now I want one of these.
Haha, I thought to myself where these plastic kits lack the personal investment I get from a longterm build on a wood kit. They do allow me to feel some accomplishment in a short period of time.
Thanks for commenting, thanks a lot!!!
Just another Scale Modeler I've only Built one wood kit but I had a lot of fun with it and I'm planning to build some more soon.
The one difference I appreciate beyond all others is this. If you don't respect to the wood kit it won't work. This plastic stuff can get run over by the truck and still work. It is because of this I like wood kits so much. It is always a battle of will.
What glue do you use on plastic kits?
Sellers plastic glue
Hey Ron ,what exactly is your mix for your handy dandy concrete mix ? For my concrete I use a mix of grays and buffs (Tamiya acrylics) works out nice ,but always good to know what others use.
I`ve built a few Walthers N scale cornerstone kits and rather like them ,nice and easy to build but the magic happens during painting and custom touches.I also do a lot of scratch building...my true passion.
This is probably the first time you didn`t use Weldbond on a build...although I see 3 jugs off camera just waiting to be used LOL
Just as a note ,I wash my plastic parts ,be it a kit or scratch building with alcohol.Tamiya paint sticks well afterwards with no adhesion problems.I used to always use enamels and lacquer through the airbrush during my model airplane building days ,but made the switch to acrylics when I got into model railroading (never thought I would).Now I love them ,no smell,easy cleanup and fast drying(hairdryer works great, like I see you do too)
Very nice build ,has that Ron touch to it !!
Still like your woodkits/artisan kit builds the best.
Salut!
Pual I am fixing to live stream again when the studio is done. I expect that we will have lots to discuss. The shop concrete is simply Lowes matched aged concrete in a quart. Thanks for watching
when are you coming back to you tube. we miss ya brother
Started again
Do a DPM kit. I have one I started, its the only plastic kit I have. It's the brewery one hehehe
I built one years ago. I'll keep my eyes open for one.
Fantastic build my brother
Thank you so much for the comment. Next video should be pretty exciting as it will go even further into detailing and weathering.
Hey Ron nice job on that sawmill...i built a quite a few plastic kits and was scared of wood...I watched you build a few and i tried it...now thats all i've been doing haven't touched a plastic kit in over two years lol...TY for all your how-tos I've learned a lot from them Tom
Tom if you ever have questions or god forbid tips for me, you share them, my friend. This is our domain.
Thanks for commenting!
hi Ron... all plastic kits need to be washed & primed before painting... even the plastic i use for scratch building... your build looks good... vinny
Great advice Vin. Full disclosure, I learned most of these plastic bits from your videos. Thanks for them.
glad you able to get some stuff out of my vids... vinny
I've been watching for years. To me, you are the other builder. In a friendly kind of way lol.
Really Ron, you and a plastic kit???? :) Your Slacking!!!! Just busting your chops, well done mate.
I know right? It's this summer sun, clearly. Cheers to staying cool my friend
And your already getting your new table top messed up!!!! You are killing me! ;)
Woof, live by the sword, the table gets messy haha.
LOL I'm just a middle aged guy with ADD or whatever it is ;) My local bar knows this I come in, beer is ready, I'm given remote to the tv behind bar and I spend time straightening up coasters, aligning the catsup, mustard, salt, pepper/paper towel dispenser. Its my thing. Same in house, family can't stand me hehehe. I have to say my model train table is immaculate however. I even paint on cardboard etc, can't leave a mess ROFL. But I occasionally spill a drink if too full or I'm toasted. ;)
The toasty modeler channel lol