Using A Flexible Auger Bit To Fish Wires Through Walls
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ส.ค. 2022
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I always thought these flexible Auger Drill Bits that come in 54 or 72 inches looked pretty challenging to get a hole where you wanted in a wall cavity. I decided to give it a try and let you know what I experienced as a DIYer so you can make the best choice for your home DIY electrical projects
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I mounted a plastic baseball to keep the auger in the middle of the wall, which really helps avoid those corner issues.
I avoid all drywall work by drilling an 3/32" or 1/8" hole thru the ceiling drywall where it meets the wall drywall. Then I feed a piece of wire or a 3/32" or 1/8" diameter long drill drill bit thru the hole far enough so I can find it in the attic. Then I locate the wire or long drill bit in the attic and drill a hole thru the top plates at that location. Then just fill the 1/8" hole in the drywall. If there is any blocking in the wall, I'll then use a long drill bit from the attic to drill a hole thru it. I also use this same concept for locating and drilling holes thru the bottom plate from the basement. The difference there is that the bottom plate is not visible from the basement so you have to measure over from your drilled locating hole to the center of the bottom plate.
I've done the same except I used a hole-sized bamboo skewer. you push it up and it just sticks kn the hole if you use the right size drill bit. Super easy to find it even will poke through insulation and leave you with a little pale tan "flag"
Thanks for this tip, very smart and easy! If this tiny bbq skewer hole didn't work I'd probably take the route at the end of the video by just opening up the drywall at the top of the wall. I liked the plywood template with 4 drywall screws.
Same but I use piano wire. Very small hole, no patch required. You do need a decent idea of where that wire will be in the attic though. Its somewhat hard to see and you need a rather long wire > 18" to punch through all the insulation.
@@thesmallterror That is why I go with a hole that a more visible wire or skewer will fit thru which is more visible. I started off using a thinner copper ground wire but switched to a more visible white 14 or 12 gage wire. If I did it more often I would probably coat the white wire with bright pink or whatever.
Hi,
Do you have a video of this method? It sounds clean and easy.
I have used the flex bits a number of times and they are great when needed. Accessories help a lot. Check out "bumper balls". They come in different sizes for different size studs, go on the flex shaft and keep the bit centered in the wall cavity and away from stud. Awesome. They also help with horizontal drilling even when smaller than joist size, they keep the bit up off the edge by a couple inches. There is also a "handle" that lets you hold the bend at the opening to make drilling/pushing easier.
I too was wondering why not use the ball method to center the bit.
@@harryl7946 There is an answer for that @4:30. By not using it, someone would comment about it and feed the algorithm gods as the more comments the video gets the more likely it shows up in people's suggested feed.
Bumper balls work great when going down but not so much going up so I use tape wrapped around the drill bit to hold the bumper ball
Great tip. Had I not had both of those flex-tip accessories, I would’ve tor up my drywall. This method was an absolute God-send when hiding wall mounted t.v. Cables, and running cat5 and coax cable. Best money I’ve ever spent on drilling accessories.👍
You read my mind @mikez8308 Bumper balls help you hit center.
I used on to go through studs to run another outlet. I got through the first stud no problem, but went straight through the drywall just as my wife was walking by and saw the bit protrude from the wall. Which then gave me the opportunity to try drywall for the first time and absolutely nailed that fix! So you could say, without the flex tool I may not have ever known I could do drywall!
This video is actually very timely. Been wondering about this subject recently for running low voltage cable down walls and through horizontal plates from my attic.
This is crazy great!!! I use to run CAT 6 in my previous life and used the auger method from outlet height to the top cap. Never had the issues you demonstrated, I used a guide on the shaft to help steer the auger. But this is easy. Love it! I have seen this method before, but you made it look easy. Nice job.
This is a GREAT video. As a DIY’er, if you’re going to use the flex-bit, use the guides (flex-guide tool, or bumper-ball guides.)….they work very well. Or, as you did….if you’re in a position to cut a square above/next too the fire-stop/stud so you can fit a bit into the wall, then put the drywall square back, then sparkle/paint it. Sometimes more steps that are easier to do, is the better way to go. 👍
I used a 72” flexible bit to run cat 6 up to my garage attic and it worked great first time. The auger bit wasn’t as long as the one you used and I did cut a larger hole and was able to use my hand to move it around until it felt like it was about middle by banging it against the outer and inner wall.
I like this tip of cutting out the sheetrock close enough to the ceiling sized so you can screw it back on three sides. I would much prefer to drill from above, if that's an option. This is great for when it is not. Thanks
Thanks for the feedback Steve 👍
100% agree with this.
Great Auger Drill Bit testing rig!!! And great idea to try it!!! If someone tells you in comments how to do it better, please come back and show us. I would hate to have to cut panels of drywall and repair them for this kind of job. Thank you for these videos!
My roof has a very slight pitch, which makes adding safety ground wires for outlets too difficult for my electrician to take the job. I saw your video about cutting slots of drywall at a specific height and running the safety ground wire (in my case) to outlets (and adding more outlets that I'd want), but if it could be done the Auger Bit way, that would be much better. Otherwise, the new safety ground wires would have to be run from the circuit breaker box to hall wall outlets in rooms and then use the cutting drywall slots method to run it (or new Romex) to other outlets. This house was built in 1960 and the 2-wire Romex is stapled to the studs, so just a safety ground wire needs to be run, with new outlets tapped into that. The outer walls may have insulation in them and the front and back walls are too hard to get to because of the roof, so cutting drywall slots may be the only way for them, which would also mean having to move all kinds of furniture and stuff to even get to outlets, and to cut drywall slots. That's a lot of moving stuff, cutting, wiring, patching, painting and putting stuff back in place! But I really want safety ground everywhere. We'll see if I ever go there.
Thanks again! You are quite the thinker and innovator. I hope you get your answers!
Hey, maybe some kind of round spacer that would fit through the outlet and switch holes, maybe secured in place with zip ties, like a circular saw bit hole cutout with the drill bit hole as the center. Cutting an appropriate diameter from ¼" plywood should do the trick for your application here. An inch and a half diameter might do well and not block getting the auger bit in and up too much. You could even mount two of them on the auger shaft, with one a foot or 2 or 3 below the one near the drilling bit, to help keep it vertically straight to help keep the hole from being at an angle so much. That would protect drywall or whatever on the other side of the studs and help prevent hitting vertical stud nails and drywall screws. It would be harder to get through insulation without tearing it up. A 1 inch diameter hole cutout used in corners where insulation is might minimize tearing it up too bad. Experiment with cutout diameters to see what works best for each case; with insulation and not and anything else. Having center horizontal studs to get through would be different. I hope this helps! Maybe someone else has professional suggestions.
I had to do the 2nd one a few weeks ago. Added a ceiling fan to a room that didn't have one and need to run the wire to a switch that controlled an outlet but couldn't drill down from the attic cause it was on the exterior wall so I had to cut a hole in the drywall drill up into the attic to run the wires. My drywall repair turned out really good can't even tell there was a hole there. Lowe's did an amazing job color matching the paint for me. Just bought a sample size to paint the patch much cheaper than the half gallon
utterly fantastic! Exactly what I need right now because I cannot access that part of the attic, but I CAN run a fiberglass pull rod through the top plate.
I like the idea of using the template to cut through an exterior wall top plate where the wall and roof come together. Good video.
The have 3" guide balls that go on the shaft for spacing it somewhat in the center.
Amazon sells them
I do alot of rehab work and I've ways been tempted to get one of those drill bits but I figured they'd be a pita to use. Your demo confirms it. I typically cut a small piece of drywall at the very top, just enough to notch the top plate. After running the romex I put a nail plate over the notch and patch the drywall.
Would most definitely agree with you. No way I would want to do blind drilling at something 4 plus feet away. Your technique using a piece of flooring made perfect sense. Excellent video and appreciate your assistance. 👍👍👍
For the top floor stick a glow rod in the ceiling to find your spot in the attic, and then drill from up top. On the first floor cut a rectangle in the ceiling big enough to fit your hand in, and one at the top of the wall long enough to fit a long bit in. Drill through from bottom.
Yes, definitely. I agree with the comments made about marking your hole next to the wall, slide a small wire up through the insulation, then drill down into the wall from the attic. These bits are most helpful if you encounter some kind of blocking mid-wall. That's where they shine. Also, use the bracket tool to aim & you'll have great results! Good luck! Dan's Handyman Svcs.
I totally agree, drilling down from attic is better for sure but I have needed this ability a few times over the years on exterior walls or getting through fireblocks. Thanks for the feedback!
All your technical very helpful for me…. Thanks ❤😊
I tried one that was just an extension and you used a regular bit, the bit is still in the wall. Next time I tried one like you had, it binded up and it still in the wall. I'll do what you did for now on. Anyone that has used it and it works, more power to you! I'm not getting another one.
If I make an opening near the top of the wall (the second method), instead of a wide horizontal opening, I use a narrow horizontal opening but much longer vertically. That allows the drill bit angle to be more perpendicular to the top plate, it won't be 90 degrees, but it will be closer so there is no worry that the hole comes out the far side instead of the top. This is especially an issue if the top plate has more than two stacked levels of 2x4s. The downside is one can't use the studs on each side when doing the drywall patch, but that's not a big deal if you know how to patch drywall.
Thank you for posting this. I just adding some ceiling fans and an “online expert” suggested I used this instead of cutting out access points that I later reinstalled…
Cutting through the drywall to create openings for viewing the above and below areas to be drilled is the safest practice. I have used a flex bit before and luckily managed to avoid drilling through the drywall. Getting a clear view of the area will provide a penetration with better location control and will also avoid surprise encounters with wires or pipes.
I bought one of these the other day. Cut an outlet sized hole behind my TV (needed for routing HDMI etc through the wall anyways), drilled straight up and into the attic, no issues. Pushed my wire fishing rods up and away we go. I think with a little care around drilling the right spot (maybe reach into the hole a little and jiggle the tip so it gets a little more centered on the stud, or use one of those tools others have mentioned), these flexible augers are amazing.
Why didn't you go to your attic and drill down? That would be much easier and safer
@@aurvaroy6670 the part of the attic over the TV is very hard to get to. I would need to construct done scaffolding up there to get over a 5ft ledge. It's very hot this time of year to spend all that time in the attic.
I have *never* had success with those long flex bits! I've had the same erratic results you experienced, they just pop out where you don't want them to, or they just get bound up on something. It is much more sensible and far less frustrating to make access ports and patch them up!
I did not see you use the require gig handle that helps control the auger bit position. It is almost and "L" shape that fits in the outlet hole and the bit shalf rides in it's saddle. As the bit is pushed outward the gig applies pressure to flex the shalf to help position the auger in the correct position.
I have used these bits for years. I have never even considered drilling up into the attic with it. I have always used it to drill down into a crawl space. Also, did you use the tool that lets you aim the bit inside the wall? They come with a metal tool that lets you have way better control, and put more force behind the bit once the threaded end punches through.
I did have that guide which came in the Klein Tools 54” kit but didn’t like the feel at least initially trying to drill 75” up from the box cutout. I will practice a bit more as having this skill is handy in several scenarios.
yes these drills work great for drilling down into a crawl space. Never tried drilling up. Too risky
I have one and love it. Totally agree with Taylor... I only use it for drilling down into basement or crawl space. The guide tool works great for that application (probably because it's a much shorter distance to the floor board). It really allows you for hit the center of the 2x4. For the attic, it is much easier to just drill down from the top.
For sure, this would be more for an exterior wall with extremely limited space in the attic. I sharpened up the 54” auger and will keep it on me for drilling down like you guys mentioned or up through fireblocking. The shorter distances are more management at least for me. Thanks for the feedback.
I have the same auger and guide tool and always used it to drill down into my basement for Romex and CAT6 runs. Makes the work easy!
Rac A Tiers makes a drill bit with a plastic ball behind the bit that centers itself in the wall. Works great every time!
My Klein extension does lock onto my Klein auger bit. The grub screws just cut grooves in the shank. I am thinking about welding them together.
Never used a flex auger but, but one suggestion I can offer when guiding it close to the ceiling is to try to catch it using a powerful magnet and see if you can start drilling closer to the current wall. The angle should be much straighter and I'd love to see your results for round 2!
You can put a hole in a tennis ball and put it on the flex bit to guide it away from the wall.
I prefer to use them from attic down. Bore through the top plate with a seperate bit then use the flexible auger for the rest of the wall. I prefer the Greenlee flexible auger bit. That one is extendable with interchangeable bits, and you can buy more extensions for it. But with the Greenlee once it goes through you detach the bit and install the wire pull bit. So much easier. But you will be in the attic a bit more, but guarenteed to drill where you want. Even on insulated walls. The flexible auger you used it a pain in the ass for all the reasons you showed, and you are purly drilling blind. With the Greenlee you drill where you want.
I just bought a 5 piece kit today with 2 extensions, drill and 2 other attachments!
My Greenlee flexible fit came with a "placement tool" that lets me angle the bit perfectly into the middle area of the header; I wouldn't think about drilling a blind hole without it.
Your example of using a piece flooring to make a template. As a maintenance man where time was of the essence instead of replacing the cut out piece of drywall with drywall I simply used a hvac vent or return cover. Saves hours and mess.
I've been using this bit for years. I always make a small ditch or cavity behind the upper center of the hole before I begin drilling. Then I feed the bit up the wall long that path. It helps the bit remain centered and straight as I drill. I haven't tried the ball method. But I think I will on the next job.
I live in a condo, people upstairs always get mad when I drill through their floor 😆
Do it at night when they have the lights off and they’re sleeping.
Great video and I like the template tip! I would use a 3”guide ball sold on Amazon to align the drill bit in the middle of the 2x4. I always worry drilling blindly up into the top plate fearing that there may be wires on the other side and I would drill through them.
Never seen one before, but after your tip and checking them out i'm 100% with ya. Those look awesome, bet you could do the same with just a tennis ball or something similar.
@@stevefifield1207 I think the ball comes with some type of stop collar to prevent it from sliding down the drill bit shaft and that is why a tennis ball not work as good as the drill shaft ball. In any case, you take a big risk drilling inside a wall where there could be other electrical lines, water and natural gas lines, etc. that you could damage and/or cause a fire.
From previous personal experience, no I will not use a flexible bit ever again. I managed to: complete 1 hole AFTER punching through both sides of the wall and then eventually got the bit stuck while trying to get a second hole don down to the 1st floor. This was with the "bender" accessory as well.
I have seen workarounds, like a ball that is used to center the far end of the shaft just before the bit but that's only useful when you don't have insulation and/or a fire block. Next time will just be cutting out drywall.
Yeah, I will keep the 54" Auger bit handy and possibly punch through a fireblock but when going through a top plate where I can't access from the attic I am still leaning towards cutting out the drywall 👍. Thanks for the feedback.
One thing i found with these self pulling bits is if you use an impact drill you don't need to push as hard at the end of the hole. I use speedbor bits a lot and my impact driver saved so much time when used against endless studs
🤔 not a bad idea. Sounds like I have another test to run while I have this temp wall up. Thanks for the feedback.
Really helps drill through those pesky gas pipes, too. Why stop there, though? Get an SDS-Max rotary hammer and just rail away blindly.
Great for pot lights. The wide cavity because of the size of the lumber makes the flex bits great in that situation.
That would be doable especially with reasonable spacing between lights where you don’t have to many joists to get through.
I'm the guy who drilled a hole in my son's roof with one of these bits. Luckily the bit came out between two shingles and I was able to slide a piece of thick plastic under the shingles to patch the hole. Moral of the story is, drill from above and when you get tired stop working. It was 10:00 at night when I did that.
I've never used a flex bit. I have however, approached this from the opposite direction in the past. I located the top wall plate in the attic and drilled thru from the attic side. Then ran the romex down to my gang box. Obviously this is only an option if you have access to the top wall plate.
Great demonstration. That flex bit seems a bit hit and miss. I'm sure it's a lifesaver though in some situations.
I am the same as you but for exterior walls I have always struggled with access from above. “Hit or miss” is a good assessment of these bits. With enough practice I am sure you can increases the chances of success.
Definitely the second method is more like it. It just makes you wander when the cable guy come and use the first method and probably not knowing how to operate it properly. I ran all my camera cables by drilling from the top instead but also I had easy access. Loved the video
Thanks Hassan, I will be practicing a bit more with the flex bit but for a normal DIYer I think it would cause more harm than good 👍
Thanks. A larger hole does make it a lot easier to work with. Makes sense
20 yrs ago I tried the 60 inch drill bit and I ended wrapping 3 romex wires shorting up the whole house _( never ever used this long drill bit)
Oh man! Yeah, I think there are a ton of horror stories from these bits. Appreciate you sharing your experience 👍
Hahaha 🤣. I am sorry. But that would be my luck also. Now I confirm of not using it at all.
That's exactly what I'd be concerned about as well.
These days it's easy to snake a camera into the wall to see what's there, but no so much 20 years ago. I have a bullet shaped camera on about 15' of wire that has been very helpful when going inside walls. Has a USB connection to plug into a laptop. It wasn't expensive either, maybe $25 or so. The picture clarity isn't great, but it's fine for getting a good idea what is inside the wall you are dealing with.
There are a few videos that show either a wooden ball or plastic ball on the bit shaft just below the business end of the bit. It will keep the bit from getting tight into a corner.
Just search "Klein Tools Flex Bit" here on TH-cam.
I used a flexible auger bit for the first time in my recent project and I did exactly what you did on your first try which I ended up drilling right through the wall on the other side. What I figured out is you still have to make a small hole in the drywall like you did but I did a small pilot hole and then used that as a guide for the auger bit. What you did would not have worked in my case because you angled your drill whereas I was able to drill straight up. Also my houses frame is a good 6 inches thick with all that stacked wood. A standard spade bit would not have made it all the way through.
Thanks for the informative video👍
You bet!
If you have an endoscope, this will help guide your drill before drilling. I tape the scope to a fish rod for more study control to check the location of the bit before drilling.
Lots of prep work have gone into making this video!
Yep some people call it a borescope too but I have a cheap one off Amazon I use for the same purpose.
I’ve never used a flex bit, but I have used a flashlight and a mirror in fishing cable through a wall. I wonder if this approach could be used when drilling a hole using a flex bit.
Thanks for the video.
I'll be using the flooring example for low-voltage runs
Great idea with the cut-out but what I've done in the past, is to screw in a couple of 2x4 sections along the cut lines, so that I can screw the drywall piece back into place more securely. That way, if the repaired part ever gets struck (by kids playing ball indoors, for instance)....there will be more support and the mud lines are less likely to crack.
As an Electrician of 40+ years, I always like to learn new "tricks"...your channel has many; some don't make sense to me, but others are shortcuts I wish I knew "back in the day"...
Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, I have seen the small sections of 2x4's added in the past as well which you are right could help make the patch hold up better over the years.
I was very curious on number 2 and 3. I am planning on mounting wall sconces using the outlet next to the bed. Using a stud finder I see there is a cross beam in the way between the light location and the existing outlet.
I'd be worried about hitting other things or wires in wall. In my kids house had to run a new wire to an old outlet, that wall had wire and 3 stop blocks. Lol
Really, 3 blocks? Dang!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs was in a basement, wire was broke between a run of outlets. Figured easiest was to run a new wire, well 3 drywall holes later surprise surprise, wire got run. Haha
Could you possibly try this again while using a ball guide? Would like to see if the ball works on the insulated wall. Thank you!
I take rg6 wire copper and push it into ceiling to locate where to drill. Go top side, locate it and use magnepull to feed wire to hole.
Tennis ball in the bit will center it. Can't believe this video is the top google result.
Excellent Advice thank you
You bet!
I've learned to consider those flexible auger bits disposable because it seems like just about every time I use one I manage to ruin it by hitting a nail or a screw. Twice, I've had them get so jammed the auger portion spins right off of the shaft.
But I have used them successfully. The biggest success was when I had to drill horizontally through three studs to wire in a switch -- cutting access holes in the walls was not an option, and neither was going up or down (because of the way the building was constructed).
Never heard of a placement tool? They help allot for control and a usb bore scope with fish eye end for phone you can drill a hole to fit the bore scope in and see what your doing in wall
I thought maybe when using the flexible bit, you could possibly use the camera on your cell phone to help you in guiding it where you want📱 I don't know, just a thought🤷♂ BTW loving your material👍👍
Thanks for the feedback. I think you might be able to do that for drilling through a bottom plate into a crawlspace or up through blocking. Appreciate the support 👊
Useful demo. Thanks.
You bet!
We don't have those flexi bits in the UK, with stud walls becoming much more common these days, they'd be quite useful. Problem is we have cable zones, you can't just fish the cable up diagonally, it has to be directly vertical or horzontal from an accessory box, OR within 150mm (6") of the corners of the room
Thanks man, I appreciate the info as it is always interesting to hear the differences in code across countries 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Indeed, I chat to a lot of American sparks, and european ones, on Discord, it's always interesting to compare notes. The US NEC tends to be aimed toward preventing fire (being written by the NFPA), the UK and European codes are typically written by electrical engineering bodies, and focus on reliability and protection from shock (that requirement of course is made more important by the use of 220-240v),
The US industry does seem to have many more specialist tools, but that's likely because larger market (same basic system is used in US/Canada/Mexico, with variations all over the world)
Great tip with the flooring template. How would you handle a cavity with blocking, using that method? Cut another hole at the blocking?
I actually would do the auger bit but with no extension. I felt more confident with a max of 54" once you stretch out further I found the control to be lacking as you saw in the video. So, I would punch through the blocking with a flexible auger bit and then use fishing tape running up the wall through the blocking. I could easily grab the fishing tape through the cavity and pull the romex down.
When I used to use a flexible 6 footer, we would put a ball in the middle of the flex bit, and that would allow you to drill without damaging the drywall
Do you have any videos that show how to go through plaster and lathe to install 1 gang receptacle?
Had to comment. We were looking for a good video to show my son. I have used flex bits many times. There is a guide handle that allows you to center the bit. Try one.
Mike
While I own two of these and do try to use them for running low voltage wiring in my 1916 house, my horror story was accidentally punching a hole in a plaster ceiling while boring horizontally through second floor joists. It was a lot of effort to repair. I am probably stupid enough to try this again though...
As much as I hate finishing drywall, I'd either go with the cutout method OR drill a hole up from within the living space, per another commenter's suggestion. I was recently in my attic boring a hole down into an exterior wall and even with a right-angle attachment on my drill it was a really tight maneuver. Plus being flat on my belly with my bald head (protected by a bump hat) rubbing up against the rafters and roofing nails, it wasn't fun. AND, it was dang hot up there!.
Me too, bald head, shingle nails through the sheathing poking me, laying on pieces of plywood on top of fiberglass insulation which stirs of clouds of fiberglass particles absolutely sweating my balls off. Nightmare. Hundred year old house so there’s like 6 inches of clearance between the roof and the top plate, I’m wedged in it triangle between the roof in the attic floor. What’s gotta be done has got to be done. Nasty Jobs. Eventually I use a vice grip and broke all the (dozens) nails off, even that’s nasty.
@@williamwixon Ha ha. I used my roto-zip wtih an abrasive wheel to cut off the most offensive nails poking thru my sheathing. MIce turds in my insulation along with fistfulls of sunflower husks from the previous owners bird feeders. Oh, and I did find a totally intact, 100% mummified squirrel under some insulation. Scared the bejesus out of me when I uncovered it!
An auger bit over fish tape?
You’re way braver than I, Scott.
lol, for all DIY - ers who have no idea - but like expensive experiments, get a friendly electrician to do the work (they may still let you screw up your own walls if you ask nicely) - Also if you MUST have that new powerpoint/outlet in the perimeter wall (and can't access the top plate - there are still options) - well you may think you are all out of options (or consider putting the outlet in a common interior wall - a much better idea for thermal reasons anyhow).
Tip is if there is no air return in that room. Make the cut out smaller then a air turn n install one notnmudding tapping or painting
GREAT tip👍🇺🇸
Am I missing something here? You have to go into the attic to run the cat-5 anyway -- why not just drill through the top plate and feed you wire down (which is way easier than up).
I'm not an electrician but an avid DIY'er and I've done a lot of wiring and plumbing. I have a flex bit and it's worked great but it's only 36" long and I've only used it drilling down (from a height of about 18" through the floor to the basement). This insured that I got into the wall cavity as I was concerned that if I drilled up I might miss it and end up with a hole in the floor. Not having a lot of experience with this bit I would have been reluctant to drill up with one as long as the one you used.
Yeah, the 36"drilling down is a bit more reasonable. I have also seen people remove the trim and do a small pilot hole on the front of the wall down into the basement so you know exactly on the wall where you want to drill. You might want to stick a wire down through the pilot hole to make it easy to find in the basement. Then if you have 2x4 walls and 1/2"drywall you just move back 1 1/4"back from your pilot hole to hit the middle of the stud drill from the basement.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs That's a good idea - thank you
There are techniques require to use a flexible bit/cable bit successfully when drilling blind. The main problem is what happened to you - the bit will simply ride up the back of the wall cavity and you wind up drilling through the edge of the plate instead of the center. The solution to that is to put a spacer on your flex bit's shaft. I've used a tennis ball for that, but you can purchase what they call "bumper balls" in various sizes as well, purpose-designed for this. The ball keeps the bit away from the wall of the cavity and helps you get it in the center. That being said, if you are running the drill into an accessible space, like an attic, it's a lot easier to drill your hole from there down, if possible.
One thing I have discovered in my own home is that there can be a wire running along the top of the plate. If there is, and you drill through, you will drill that wire. Nothing is always as it should be in our homes, especially older ones from the 70s and before. I am going to drill a hole in the ceiling as well, so I can stick my hand up there and make sure the top of the plate is clear.
7:38 EXCELLENT idea!
I've used diversibits for years. I usually have good luck. I'm doing alarm work normally higher than you. Touchpads mainly. They make a flexing tool to go over that bit to bow it on center. Never had any issues. I do a prehole with an 1/8" bit, 12" long. Shove a coat hanger through. Go to the attic and find it. Go back and drill your hole.
Maybe use a small piece of foam board around the shaft or the bit shaft to help keep the bit away from the edged - either way you get a reference hole to center another hole while you’re up in the attic pushing the wire down - if there is a block in between that hole should help center the upper hole - an inspection mirror and a flashlight should help as well - no suggestions with an insulated wall
I usually just cut a square hole at the top of the wall so you're able to easily drill a hole through the top plate. It saves so much time and it's a lot better than drilling through the wall. Patching one hole in the drywall isn't a big deal.
I have optional accessory for those bits that bends the bit up in the 2x4 box opening. Maybe check that out.
Mine has that too!
I have a wooden ball guide that’s meant to center the drill bit in the cavity. Wouldn’t work in the fireblock cavity situation, though. Also “attempt” has a t on the end.
Good catch and thanks for the feedback.
You never addressed the fire blocks
For proper use there is a tool manufactures recommend to use to successfully use. This Positions the drill in such a way that your force applied gives you the ability to continue through the top place or in many cases bottom plate and to do it relatively within a center plate location. Yet the better bit can provide the gripping power to be successful.
Yes practice will always make a person more Proficient.
Yeah, I am confident now with getting through fire blocks and bottom plates but stretching out 75" definitely requires some more practice on my end.
im not a professional carpenter, but i would use both techniques for such a situation.
Use an endoscope to look up and place the bit near the center.
You didn't demonstrate the bit going through the application with the fire stop plus insulation or only fire stop, wh where's the footage?
I've only ever used these to drill down through blocking
I have used them several times they are a lot easier to go down than they are to go up. But like you said once you hit a screw or a nail it is dull and pretty much useless. They don't last very long. But the whole point of those is to not open the wall at all.
At 7:07 you could also use a shorter Speed Bit with a right-angle drill adapter.
Now that’s an idea! www.google.com/search?q=rigt+angke+drill+adapter&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari
18 year network cable installer, had about a 60% success rate running a flex bit up...just my 2 cents, the other 40% we usually fount the bit where we didn't want to see it. The guide tool does help a bit with practice. Don't find a lot of wood studs in commercial work.
appreciate the feedback 👍
I use them I have a handle thing that you can bend the bit to steer the bit
I have used the flexible auger bit broke one that got so stuck in the wall I had to cut it. The other I tried to go from one floor to the other and just ended making more of a mess and gave up. IMHO they don't work well.
If you use the bending tool that goes with the long flex bit it makes it easier to guide the bit inside the wall cavity. I think the tool is also made by Kline.
Yeah, I will give the tool/guide a bit more practice. I didn't like the guide when trying to drill 75" away from the hole going up. Just felt awkward but probably just need more time with the tool.
Try getting those bits through steel studs! Auger bits don't work and regular bits just bounce around. My house has all steel studs so it was a pain but walls have no bows! You can also use a tool in L shape that helps you to guide the bit.
Yeah, I know the kit came with one from Klein but I prefer being "hands on" to attempt to position the bit.
What do you do if you have texture on the wall. It will never match by cutting a hole in it.
Awesome. 😃😃😃
It's much better to drill down than up
They also are supposed to come with a handle so you can land it in the center of the top or bottom plates. Regardless if you get good at dry wall you can run anything with a hammer.
use a thin staking flag wire. push wire through sheet rock ceiling next to wall, lined up with 1 gang cut out in wall. push into attics space. (might need to put staking flag wire into drill chuck to cut through sheet rock) now,when your in the attic, look for the flag wire sticking up. now you will know where to drill down into wall header board and into desired wall cavity. drop a fiberglass rod into hole with romex attached on back end.
remove staking flag. the hole from wire will be tiny. cover with silicone, caulking ect.