I have a European spec 2016 Honda Crosstourer DCT and have been looking to make this mod, such a shame Honda doesn’t offer this as an option. Thanks for the tips. Look at the Crosstourer parking brake.
Hello from Atlanta, GA! I appreciate sharing your set up, I'm thinking having a similar one for my 2018 AT DCT. Would mind sharing the part number for the handlebar master cylinder. Thanks!
I will see if I can find it, it came from a Honda 1300 GL around 2016 or 18. I went through bike after bike and settled on that one. I would like to have had a dealer or supply house to look through. The master cylinder to use best fit wise is the ADV scooter from Europe, but $350 by the time it gets here. The one I used could stand to have a smaller piston for most people, softer feel. I like my brake to be firm and almost instant contact so I can modulate the brakes with two fingers. Since that video I have cut down the mc push rod to get more free play from the shorty Puig lever.
(links at the end) I used an inexpensive set from Amazon and, and it works great, nothing special about brakes, don't brake the bank. I also ditched the rear master cylinder and foot lever all together, also removed the parking brake, have velcro strap if needed. You can easily connect a new brake line to the line coming out of the top of the rear master cylinder if you don't want to tap into the OEM rear master cylinder, i just have the parts in a box somewhere. I then ran wires from the new brake lever to the front brake lever relay to trigger the brake light. Everything works great, no loss in ABS or brake tension. Link for the brake line connect www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN2W68Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1, link for master cylinder pair www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FKK69TG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@rxwarrior12 Yes the new master cylinder had a relay, and after wiring it up to the front brake lever it still works independently from the front brake. I think that's what you are asking about? I'll try to do a video for the wiring.
Standard banjo bolt 10mm x 1.0. I don't remember the length but will check tomorrow and let you know. I also thought about using a double banjo and going through the top of the master but decided against it since I had the handlebar master.
Scratch my last!!! I did not use a normal bajo. I just looked and remembered because of the angle I decided to attach the dash 3 brake hose directly to a 90 degree 1/8in NPT to dash 3 male. That way the line drops straight onto the dash 3 fitting. Turned out much cleaner to run the hose. So the hole into the master is 1/8in NPT.
I cleaned everything really well then applied the JB weld to the aluminum piece, pressed it in then applied more JB around the outer edge of the insert just for added security. It has now been over 5000 miles of off and on road use with no issues. There is a company, Quium, who make a master cycle that is for thumb brakes and looks like it will work, probably more expensive. I used JB in the intake ports on a Porsche 2.8 motor I built, lasted for two seasons of IMSA racing and was still there when I archived the motor.
I did not measure the line when I made it but I got a approximate measurement of 56"-58" or 143-147 cm depending on how you route the line. I figure the next time I have the tank off I'll reroute the line and shorten to around 145 cm. Right now it's a little long so I have a bit of extra going across the handlebar area. Not big deal but I think it could be shorter.
@@azlong4596 thanks a lot Sir. Why you didn’t fit the braided line direct into the rubber hose of the reservoir after removing this reservoir saving time and effort ? I mean the rear brake master cylinder plastic reservoir rubber hose?
@@gahlanaventis I thought about going to the rubber hose but decided against that method because I was worried about the amount of pressure going into the rubber hose if I gabbed a hand full of brake. Also I didn't want to modify the stock set-up so my entire LHRB system can be removed to put on another AT if I sell my current bike, and the original put back on as a complete unit.
Having a left hand rear brake for the DCT is the best modification anyone can do. However, you could have manufactured it better by watch the video of my mod that I did 2 years ago. th-cam.com/video/HkJoLOooq00/w-d-xo.html Ive just completed my same modification to my 2020 AT AS DCT. I'll post a new video soon. So, that anyone tgat does to the 2020 model will be able to have it cancel out the cruise control when they engage the left hand rear brake.
I could not get the ADV 750X master cyl here in the States except by ordering from UK for 350 USD. too much money. I have since done away with the parking brake all together, dropped 3.4 lbs., not much but something. I do the lhrb for my own use even on my dirt bike, I'm able to use the rear brake more efficiently.
I have a European spec 2016 Honda Crosstourer DCT and have been looking to make this mod, such a shame Honda doesn’t offer this as an option. Thanks for the tips. Look at the Crosstourer parking brake.
Hello from Atlanta, GA! I appreciate sharing your set up, I'm thinking having a similar one for my 2018 AT DCT. Would mind sharing the part number for the handlebar master cylinder. Thanks!
I will see if I can find it, it came from a Honda 1300 GL around 2016 or 18. I went through bike after bike and settled on that one. I would like to have had a dealer or supply house to look through. The master cylinder to use best fit wise is the ADV scooter from Europe, but $350 by the time it gets here. The one I used could stand to have a smaller piston for most people, softer feel. I like my brake to be firm and almost instant contact so I can modulate the brakes with two fingers. Since that video I have cut down the mc push rod to get more free play from the shorty Puig lever.
(links at the end) I used an inexpensive set from Amazon and, and it works great, nothing special about brakes, don't brake the bank. I also ditched the rear master cylinder and foot lever all together, also removed the parking brake, have velcro strap if needed. You can easily connect a new brake line to the line coming out of the top of the rear master cylinder if you don't want to tap into the OEM rear master cylinder, i just have the parts in a box somewhere. I then ran wires from the new brake lever to the front brake lever relay to trigger the brake light. Everything works great, no loss in ABS or brake tension. Link for the brake line connect www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN2W68Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1, link for master cylinder pair www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FKK69TG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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@@JacobSnover is there a relay include with those lever for the wiring? Thx you!!
@@rxwarrior12 Yes the new master cylinder had a relay, and after wiring it up to the front brake lever it still works independently from the front brake.
I think that's what you are asking about? I'll try to do a video for the wiring.
What tap size did you use? I purchased a new master cylinder for my AfricaTwin. I also need the thread size and pipe diameter. Thx.
Standard banjo bolt 10mm x 1.0. I don't remember the length but will check tomorrow and let you know. I also thought about using a double banjo and going through the top of the master but decided against it since I had the handlebar master.
Scratch my last!!! I did not use a normal bajo. I just looked and remembered because of the angle I decided to attach the dash 3 brake hose directly to a 90 degree 1/8in NPT to dash 3 male. That way the line drops straight onto the dash 3 fitting. Turned out much cleaner to run the hose. So the hole into the master is 1/8in NPT.
When you apply the JB weld, do you apply it on the outside of the fitting?
I cleaned everything really well then applied the JB weld to the aluminum piece, pressed it in then applied more JB around the outer edge of the insert just for added security. It has now been over 5000 miles of off and on road use with no issues. There is a company, Quium, who make a master cycle that is for thumb brakes and looks like it will work, probably more expensive. I used JB in the intake ports on a Porsche 2.8 motor I built, lasted for two seasons of IMSA racing and was still there when I archived the motor.
Has anyone found a complete setup to purchase or must you order each individual part?
None I have found.
hi, where can i buy it?
I could not tell you were to buy, I made my system from acquired purchases of parts.
How long the braided brake line did you fit?
I did not measure the line when I made it but I got a approximate measurement of 56"-58" or 143-147 cm depending on how you route the line. I figure the next time I have the tank off I'll reroute the line and shorten to around 145 cm. Right now it's a little long so I have a bit of extra going across the handlebar area. Not big deal but I think it could be shorter.
@@azlong4596 thanks a lot
Sir. Why you didn’t fit the braided line direct into the rubber hose of the reservoir after removing this reservoir saving time and effort ?
I mean the rear brake master cylinder plastic reservoir rubber hose?
@@gahlanaventis I thought about going to the rubber hose but decided against that method because I was worried about the amount of pressure going into the rubber hose if I gabbed a hand full of brake. Also I didn't want to modify the stock set-up so my entire LHRB system can be removed to put on another AT if I sell my current bike, and the original put back on as a complete unit.
W
Having a left hand rear brake for the DCT is the best modification anyone can do.
However, you could have manufactured it better by watch the video of my mod that I did 2 years ago.
th-cam.com/video/HkJoLOooq00/w-d-xo.html
Ive just completed my same modification to my 2020 AT AS DCT. I'll post a new video soon. So, that anyone tgat does to the 2020 model will be able to have it cancel out the cruise control when they engage the left hand rear brake.
I could not get the ADV 750X master cyl here in the States except by ordering from UK for 350 USD. too much money. I have since done away with the parking brake all together, dropped 3.4 lbs., not much but something. I do the lhrb for my own use even on my dirt bike, I'm able to use the rear brake more efficiently.