Thank you for the UK review of our beloved MGB. Here in the states, when B owners encounter each other on the road, it's cause to pull over and join for lunch. Lifelong friendships are formed at our frequent British car shows. It's amazing that i met several of my friends simply when i parked outside. Its a wonderful community
Great video, I really like the look of these chrome bumpered MGB's. I would like to have an 1800 GT version but I know how much space and time they take up. I used to be a Vehicle Refinisher so know all too well about dreaded rust traps in cars from this era, not just British ones. The thing is if I had a garage big enough I would buy a grotty bodied MGB GT with good running gear, trim and glass house. And then save up for a heritage body shell and re-build with upgraded bushes, cooling fan, ignition etc. It would be expensive but in the end I would probably really enjoy the time rebuilding and knowing my own car inside out. I know from experience that many old cars can have what looks like superficial light corrosion but once a job is started it can turn into a major complete new sheet metal section. You will be wasting money and time removing visible rust then painting a car, when the cause of the rust is not tackled from within first, it will just bubble straight back through. Most cars rust from inside the box sections to the outside meaning if they are too corroded internally then you are better replacing entire sections or re-shelling. Sills are always the first to go along with suspension mounts and anywhere dark and damp. If I had a new shell I would obviously spray it first (ensuring all necessary holes are drilled first), then pump all the cavities and box sections with wax oil. Body work is extremely expensive to repair due to the time and labour involved, luckily these cars have great parts availability.
You left out one very important body component to check: the monocoque structure that forms the frame. I owned a 1965 MGB here in the United States back in the late 1960s and early 1970s and while the engine, transmission, and body were all in great condition the monocoque structure rusted out and the car became un drivable. It's best to put the car up on a lift to check for this problem but if you can't do that just lay on the ground and check out the area between the rocker panels and the drive tunnel. Anything other than minor rust in this area should send you running in the other direction!
great video - systematic & really useful for someone like me (I know a bit but not enough) - originally from UK but now I live in a 'dry state of the USA so fully sympathetic about keeping rust at bay - I have an arizona MGB roadster - no rust (at all) - fire it up every summer and drive it...... brilliant fun - wife loves it - space for the dog (Unlike my porsche). Always on the lookout for a GT at the right price - your video will be the goto reference - really appreciate your effort, no nonsense and expert info.
Nice video. I have a Tartan Red 1972. I've had it for 4 years and I will never get rid of it. It makes me smile every time I take it out. Love the accent, too!
@@restosaga Full respray when you replace that off side wing? It looks in good shape apart from that wing. The iceberg rule tends to apply to visible rust on those wings, unfortunately. Your interior looks very original.
I bought a 67 B. Redid the interior and top and then burned up the generator. Later on rebuilt the motor and transmission, after that just drove it and enjoyed it.
I have a 1973 last of the chrome bumper cars that I purchased in 1980 for $2,300 Canadian dollars. Very rusty spent 80's fixing it up just in time to start a family and give the car to my parents as it spent all it's time in their garage.......got it back three years ago after my dad died. Still runs but always a challenge with the Lucas electricals.
@@allankoivu3263 Nope.. all the same. The large rubber blocks were common on Triumphs and other Brit cars. These blocks are known as Sebrina's ... SABRINA There were small vertical tear drop shaped rubber inserts on the bumper guards prior to the RBB s of 74 1/2 and later.
Very comprehensive, thank you! I have dreamt of owning one of these for years and I am going to look at one in a few days' time, with a view to buying. Your video has given me a lot of confidence to know what I need to look out for.
Well, I bought the car, so I am now the happy and proud owner of a tartan red 1963 pull-door MGB Roadster. Sadly it's the wrong time of year to give it a good run out, but come Spring time....! I found your advice very useful and instructive. Like your MG, it shares a garage with an old Land Rover though mine, at 30 years old, is rather younger than yours!
Still relevant,thanks,going to see similar car tomorrow on done deal in carlow, looks v good and original,current owners 10yrs,had rebuild. Stored i doors and no rust apparantly. Can check everything you advised, not going to get on a stand, any obvious things to check on test drive? Cheers Andy ,based in Dublin now.
Hi Andy! Glad you’ve found this useful. I suppose while out on a drive I’d be listening carefully for clunks and bangs. Feeling for smooth steering and brakes and good power delivery. All the best with your viewing tomorrow!
Very good video.Nervously thinking of buying a mgb here in N.Ireland and your video helps.Prices as you say vary .Quite a lot for sale in Belfast and beyond from 5000 to 11000.Prefer the GT but know of a couple of roadsters for sale .
Very nice example. I hope you'll deal with the bubbling of the offside door sill 4:00 sooner rather than later. I don't know about the MGB but Mini sills were fitted with large drain vents on later cars; I sprayed Supertrol anti rust fluid up my Mini sill drain apertures and they lasted the life of the car. Supertrol soaks into any existing rust and stops further corrosion since it is quite thin, like paraffin (so it may soak into existing rust better than e.g. Waxoyl, not sure on that but it probably won't protect like Waxoyl on areas sprayed by water). Very impressed with your corrosion free engine bay. Overdrive & a Kenlowe electric fan would be good improvements to consider for the future. It looks like the drivers seat has been re-stuffed as compared to the flatter looking passenger seat 11:13. I see the engine was not quite cold, it would have been nice to hear her run even if the carbs were not quite in perfect balance 😁
Thank you for watching! And obviously very intently! Yes, long term plan for a full bare-metal restoration of this beauty. Mechanically does not need a huge amount but then it never starts out that way, does it? Main concern, as you point out, is rust. Hope I have enough time and money soon to get at it! Watch this space!
Very nice. I had a MGB and my friend had a MGBGT. I always thought it was funny that the GT was a little faster than mine. The two single barrel carburetors we’re always a pain to keep tuned.
I worked as an MG mechanic in the 1960s and early 1970s and I always found SU carbs extremely simple and easy to work on as long as you understood how they worked and used the proper techniques. Sadly in 1970 US air standards forced MG to change some of the clearance tolerances between the piston and the dashpot chamber. In some cars this resulted in erratic idling speeds when fuel deposit buildups caused the piston to stick. Although strictly speaking it was illegal to do so some mechanics cured this problem by using an appropriately sized hone to lightly polish the inside of the dashpot dome thus creating greater clearance.
I bought a brand new 1969 gun metal grey with a black leather interior MGB GT when I left the US Armed Forces in the summer of 1969 . My 105 lb. wife loved to drive that car and cried when I sold it in 1974 for a green Porsche 911T . Still dream of that MGB GT these days but not the Porsche which was a handful to drive. .
@@robertmudrow3617 It may be if you can do a lot of the work yourself .The condition of the body is critical . If the rust is easily repairable and you have some mechanical skills go for it after you get an estimate of what needs to be done and the cost of parts . Check the Moss Catalogue ,,,their parts are reasonable ,have incredible inventory and are very helpful on the phone . Good luck !
Hello :) Great Buyer´s guide thanks for that. Wich prizerange seems resonable for a Roadster from 1973? The one I am looking at is not restored is that a red Flag or nothing to worry too much about.
Thanks for watching! I’m not really up to date with prices at the moment so cannot advise I’m afraid. Unrestored may mean rusty or unmolested, hard to know until you’ve seen it
Salut. Your accent would (to me) suggest you have lived away from Northern Ireland for a number of years, however your origins sound very clear to me. At age 70 and having left Ulster back in 1972 apparently I also retain my accent. I still have to point out any new French acquaintances that je suis Irlandais pas Anglais which always causes them to express how désolé they are to have insulted me! The accent may soften but is seldom lost …… and that is never a problem! Cordialement RB
@@restosagaSalut Sir, well then je pense that if you have never left Northern Ireland then you possibly went to a good school (even perhaps a Grammar school). That would soften the accent, says the man who went to Regent House Newtownards. I was born and raised in Ulster, went to university in England where I met my English wife of 49 years, then matured for a some time in Yorkshire and maintenant I am delighted to say we are retraite en France (notre pays adopte). La vie en France n’est pas parfait bien sûr, mais c’est très bonne. Vive la France, vive la République. Bon courage! RB
Number one in the buyer guide is don’t. Well not if you live in America as you will spend more time waiting for parts and shipping costs than it’s worth. I found that out with my first and only MG. A 74 chrome bumper that was in decent shape. Loved the style and even though it was pricy $4800 in 1998 the seller convinced me it was a great daily driver. Little did I know the brake cylinders in the back were shot. The clutch cylinder as well. Also the “professional” 12v conversion was nothing more than an alternator and starter wires. About 2 months into ownership stuff started shorting out. Then the clutch went at 50 on the freeway just completely lost the pedal. Started trying to hunt parts in US to little avail. 3 ratty non runners the owners refused to part out and wanted $2-3000 for the whole car. Finally found a place in England to get parts but the shipping cost and time was crazy being this was supposed to be my daily. Ended up stranding me one night refusing to start.And after sinking about $1400 in parts over the 7months I owned it I Sold it for $2500.
I don’t know what your problems were but you can buy absolutely anything from Moss Motors… and I mean anything. Or Victoria British who are now owned by Moss.
I purchased mine back when the internet was still growing. This was in 1982 and the internet wasn’t what it is today. No google or simple searches and no parts stores anywhere had parts for these cars.
The MGB is one of those cars that have massive numbers of parts suppliers in the US and UK. And, parts are cheap. Moss Motors in Goleta( Santa Barbara) Calif. British Parts Northwest and Northwest Import Parts in the Portland Or area. There is the Roadster Factory and many others. As to your experiences with the car, . You are most definitely the wrong owner for an MGB. And your story is BS.
A lovely car - keep up the good work - nice to see lots of mg's on the road as when I take my series 3 landy for a sunday run I usually cross paths with a mg...and looking forward to more landy stuff on your channel...great stuff
There was no 1953 TF.. The first TF was 1954 with the TD XPAG engine. I have owned a 1946 MG TC right hand drive, with Lucas Laystall cross flow head, bored out, ported, wild west cam, headers, 15" Borani Wheels. 1950 TD set up for Bonneville, a 1953TD Mark II . 1956 MGA, 1964 MGB ( just sold that in Sept.)Now have a 1963 MGB "Tourer" (which is commonly, and mistakenly called a "roadster" )1969 MGC GT with Webasto Sunroof and 4 speed automatic . Also 5 Land Rovers 1958 though 1974, several Morris Minors, 2 Morris Oxfords, 1980 Rover 3500 V8 SD1, 4 Thames vans, 1959 Fairthorpe Electron Climax and few othe Brit cars. s.
Thank you! All the best on your hunt. Very hard to budget that with an old car. So many unpredictable bills. If it’s oure normal servicing then £150 would easily do everything each year.
I have a really good refurbished 1980 same color as yours with a convertible top and overdrive. Love it but I need to sell it. Where can I get an estimate?
I have my 1969 MGB that hasn’t been driven in 35 years. I’d like to sell it but haven’t the slightest idea where to start. Rust is not an issue. She has lived in central California under a tarp.
Why does it look high on the wheel arches? Like the later rubber bumper model with a chrome bumper conversion, lovely car but for that, I’d check the chassis numbers with the Haynes manual, especially because the body condition is so good for a 1969 model, wish you well with it.
The springs are quite new and have had very few miles on them so I think they need to settle. Also I think the tyres may be a little too low profile which will not help. Earlier videos show how low it sat before I got new springs. Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for posting this. Great info. Once I move house some of spare cash will go on a B. A long held ambition. One question...has yours been raised? Odd question I know but it looks like it's at rubber bumper ride height. Or is it just my eyes?!
@@restosaga Hard to believe that the original winged knock offs were consider a safety hazard. Big mistake, not as bad a s rubber bumpers but cheaper to correct.
Hello, thank you for this guide. It has been very useful as I am currently looking at a 67 model....that has not moved in almost 22 years!! Apart from what you already mentioned on your video, what else should I be looking for? cheers
Nice one! 22 years is a long time for a car to not move so pay careful attention to the brakes, possible seized engine and anytging rubber will likely need replaced. All the best!
As someone who has restored numerous MGB's I cannot emphasise enough that RUST is the major issues with ALL MGB's. The cars, literally started to dissolve as soon as they came off the production line and were parked in the dispatch carpark at the factory! The saving grace is new bodyshells are now available, making expensive sill, floorpan, rear inner and outer wheel arch, front wings repairs a thing of the past! Mechanically in comparison, they cost buttons to restore as generally they are fairly bulletproof, the B series engine is thankfully, as basic as woodchip wallpaper.
Simply not the facts. I bought my 1964 B 6 years ago. 100% original and not a spot of rust anywhere. My friend just bought a 67 GT... NO rust anywhere. He has three other Bs, a 55 TF, a Midget and a TR6. All restored and none had rust. Look harder and you can find one that was well cared for.
@@leytonthomas2043 Your question implies that restoration is rust repair; a rather narrow view. Restoration is defined as the act of bring something back to its original condition. Rust removal can be a part of that process. Rubber wears out, paint fades, seat material wears. Brake and clutch cylinders can corrode. Body panels and bumpers can dent, transmission bearings and synchros wear out. Clutches need to be replaced, engines need overhauling, carbs need rebuilding. Carpets wear and fade. All a part of the process. It is better to start with a rust free vehicle. Though I can do rust repair, I would not buy a B that needed extensive rust repair. it. If it was a Cisitalia or other more valuable vehicle, maybe. But not a B. The car is simply not worth it. There were over 500K made. Within 200 miles of me there are roughly 20 for sale . Plenty of choices. There are "restorations" and there are restorations. It's all about standards and that begins with a sound, rust free car. Pay more, get more, spend less time and money in the long run.
I agree with what you say, however after owning 30 plus MGB' s including a 2 year old Roadster, everyone had the dreaded tinworm to a certain degree. I congratulate you as the only person who has successfully bought a "Rust Free" MGB, it must have never been used as it was originally intended.
Great video. I've just bought a '66 MGB roadster (in Australia) without overdrive. I was wondering if you had thought about converting yours and if you knew how hard/expensive it is to do? Thanks.
"converting"...It is not advisable to add an overdrive unit to your transmission. Buy an O'drive box , install it add a switch and get the drive shaft specifically for the O'Drive transmission.
Looking at buying a mgb gt 1980 but only place I can keep it is outside in British weather, and will be using it as a daily vehicle to and from work everyday - is it best to give this one a miss as keeping it outside in the rain will just cause it to rust massively?
I’d say as long as you buy a good rust-free car and look after it with regular anti-rust treatment then you should be fine. Prevention is better (and cheaper) than a cure!
Rain isn't the problem, it's salt and mud that cause issues. Keep it clean and seal it underneath, avoid driving on salted roads. Great cars, perfectly useable as a daily driver.
The oil cooler on my '70 BGT was set between the engine and oil filter. I had no idea I had an oil cooler let alone that it had some corrosion in it that let loose and screwed up my bearings and other engine parts. The filter should have been placed between the oil cooler and the engine. Would have saved me a lot of money and frustration. It was plenty of fun to drive when it was working well.
Ok I thank you very much with the knowledge you gave me about the LE. It turns out Henry Ford 2 ordered 1000 in 80 for the American market. That's where the old triumph stuff on it comes from my intake Is also the same as your gt very nice car by the way. I am rebuilding it this year. If you would care to see the process look at my channel. Thank you again from one car guy to another.
I looked at your site and the car. It is a rubber bumper B. The least desirable. I can tell that the carbs have been replaced, that is a good thing. If you did not have a full blown shop and were just another Joe buying an MGB I would say stop. It's not worth it. If you are doing this for fun, and not a financial return, go ahead. But to fix and sell.. not advisable. Best of lick.
@@jeffhildreth9244 thx you i was thinking the same thing until I found one of these whole. Everything was same i was baffled still am. I got caught up in my dirt work and pushed it to back off shop. So one day ill get back to it. Just get paid better on the skid steer. Lol
It was named MGB because it replaced the MGA, not because it had a 'B' series engine. The MGA also had a (smaller) 'B' series lump. Also, there's one common fault you missed. The tops of the doors often develop a vertical split, just below the rear edge of the quarter-light and known to owners as the 'crack of doom'. It's more common on roadsters, so that may be why you didn't mention it.
@captain pugwash Don't think so, 'cos it happens even when the car has no mirrors (on the doors, not the wings!). Besides, it only seems to occur on roadsters and, almost always, under the rear edge of the quarter-light, indicating there's some design fault in the way the door fits against the (different from GT) windscreen of the soft-tops.
I'm glad I read this far in the comments. I was going to point out the MGA, not the B series engine thing. By the way, I think the MG C was named for the C series engine although I could be wrong, it's happened before (1979, I think ;-)).
Yeh was a bit harsh the b is a good car but just like the motorcycle industry we just kept on making the same machines tarted up for decades .sad realy because we had the skills to beat the world but if you take just one example the management of the last remnants of our motorcycle industry didnt even like motorcycles .We. seem always to put people at the top of industries which they have no knowledge.Ernest marples minister for transport couldnt even drive.!!!!????? Cheers and have fun
Why do people think this austin Cambridge in drag is a great car ,out of date when it was first built ,wont pull the skin of a rice pudding,handles like a badly put together chicken pen and rusts better than my beautiful but up to date ( even now ) 1979 alfa
Ouch! A scathing review if there ever was one. Everyone is entitled to their opinion but I enjoy this one as it’s fun, easy to work on and cheap to maintain. Do like classic Alfas though!!!
Harry New ....Worked at an MG specialist for a few years. A nicely restored ‘B’ can be a delight to own, like any British classic. Variety is the spice of life. For me, while an MX-5 is a capable car, I would probably build a ‘B’ if I was doing one to the standards of the Frontline Development cars...I have Jaguars, but a nice MGA or MGB roadster would be a nice consideration.
Why title this an 'MGB Buyer's Guide' when there's no mention of price for any of them including this one, not very helpful to someone looking to buy one....
If you actually watch until the end of the video you would understand why I did not make a price guide. It is titled as a Buyer's Guide, not a Price Guide, for a reason.
Grant Barclay the Olds/Rover 3.5 litre V 8. Weighs a lot less than the MBG 4 potter and even more lighter than the MGC. 6 cyclinders. Result in both cases less weight on suspension and better handling. The MGC. Was fast but didn’t like going round corners because of the boat anchor it had under the hood Body would need to be stiffened to counter act torque of motor
@@restosaga Maybe.But then the rust, the oil leaks and that engine and the account at Rimmer Bros... Don't buy a cheap one unless you have deep pockets and a lot of time.
You failed to mention a lot of things. Most importantly though you missed out a lot where the bodywork is concerned, a heck of a lot and all of it very important areas and things to check!!
I wanted a TR6 until I drove one. I wanted one until I worked on one. Industrial quality, looks ok but cramped and a bear to drive. Goofy rear suspension. I prefer the 100-4 . in the mid 60s I owned a 1953 Porsche Bent Window coupe. Cool car, now worth a considerable amount of money.
Thank you for the UK review of our beloved MGB. Here in the states, when B owners encounter each other on the road, it's cause to pull over and join for lunch. Lifelong friendships are formed at our frequent British car shows. It's amazing that i met several of my friends simply when i parked outside. Its a wonderful community
That sounds amazing, thanks for sharing that!
Great video, I really like the look of these chrome bumpered MGB's. I would like to have an 1800 GT version but I know how much space and time they take up. I used to be a Vehicle Refinisher so know all too well about dreaded rust traps in cars from this era, not just British ones. The thing is if I had a garage big enough I would buy a grotty bodied MGB GT with good running gear, trim and glass house. And then save up for a heritage body shell and re-build with upgraded bushes, cooling fan, ignition etc. It would be expensive but in the end I would probably really enjoy the time rebuilding and knowing my own car inside out. I know from experience that many old cars can have what looks like superficial light corrosion but once a job is started it can turn into a major complete new sheet metal section. You will be wasting money and time removing visible rust then painting a car, when the cause of the rust is not tackled from within first, it will just bubble straight back through. Most cars rust from inside the box sections to the outside meaning if they are too corroded internally then you are better replacing entire sections or re-shelling. Sills are always the first to go along with suspension mounts and anywhere dark and damp. If I had a new shell I would obviously spray it first (ensuring all necessary holes are drilled first), then pump all the cavities and box sections with wax oil. Body work is extremely expensive to repair due to the time and labour involved, luckily these cars have great parts availability.
Thank you and thanks for watching. Sounds like you have a great idea for a project there!
You left out one very important body component to check: the monocoque structure that forms the frame. I owned a 1965 MGB here in the United States back in the late 1960s and early 1970s and while the engine, transmission, and body were all in great condition the monocoque structure rusted out and the car became un drivable. It's best to put the car up on a lift to check for this problem but if you can't do that just lay on the ground and check out the area between the rocker panels and the drive tunnel. Anything other than minor rust in this area should send you running in the other direction!
That would nearly be a whole video in itself haha. You’re right, buyer beware of iron oxide
Thank you...I’m on the verge of buying a mark II MGB. I appreciate the info.
Thanks for watching!
great video - systematic & really useful for someone like me (I know a bit but not enough) - originally from UK but now I live in a 'dry state of the USA so fully sympathetic about keeping rust at bay - I have an arizona MGB roadster - no rust (at all) - fire it up every summer and drive it...... brilliant fun - wife loves it - space for the dog (Unlike my porsche). Always on the lookout for a GT at the right price - your video will be the goto reference - really appreciate your effort, no nonsense and expert info.
Nice one! A rust free B sounds like the dream. Glad you found the video useful. Keep on motoring!
Excellent! Clear, concise, honest! Nice car. Many thanks.
Thank you, and thanks for watching!
Useful film. Always talk to those who have owned and driven these long term first.
Good tip!
Nice video. I have a Tartan Red 1972. I've had it for 4 years and I will never get rid of it. It makes me smile every time I take it out. Love the accent, too!
Thank you! And thanks for watching too! Can’t wait to get mine back to proper Tartan Red, rather than this orangey-red it’s in!
@@restosaga Full respray when you replace that off side wing? It looks in good shape apart from that wing. The iceberg rule tends to apply to visible rust on those wings, unfortunately. Your interior looks very original.
That’s the plan. Hoping for repair rather than replacement as new wings are horribly expensive!
Restosaga Classic Car Restoration Best of luck, mate!
Watch this space! Thanks!
Nice car!! I had a 1967 one just like this one. Loved driving that car.
Thanks Paul! Had to sell it a while back but it is sorely missed, great fun.
I’ve just bought today a 1975 BGT Jubilee, looking forward to getting it on the road next week! Thanks for the video 👍🏻
Lovely, enjoy!!! And thanks for watching!
Excellent video, I enjoyed it very much. I have come to really appreciate the lines on a GT.
They’re a cracking looking car. Thanks for watching!
I bought a 67 B. Redid the interior and top and then burned up the generator. Later on rebuilt the motor and transmission, after that just drove it and enjoyed it.
I always wish I had sorted the interior on this one when I had it. 67 was a nice year!
I have a 1973 last of the chrome bumper cars that I purchased in 1980 for $2,300 Canadian dollars. Very rusty spent 80's fixing it up just in time to start a family and give the car to my parents as it spent all it's time in their garage.......got it back three years ago after my dad died. Still runs but always a challenge with the Lucas electricals.
Very nice! Must say the electrics never gave me hassle with mine but I know they can be hit or miss. Enjoy!
The last of the chrome bumper cars was 1974 1/2.. mid year change.
@@jeffhildreth9244 I think that here in Canada the early 1974 models had chrome bumpers with big rubber overrider blocks.
@@allankoivu3263 Nope.. all the same.
The large rubber blocks were common on Triumphs and other Brit cars.
These blocks are known as Sebrina's ... SABRINA
There were small vertical tear drop shaped rubber inserts on the bumper guards prior to the RBB s of 74 1/2 and later.
Nice, comprehensive overview. Thank you.
Glad you found it useful, thanks for watching!
Very comprehensive, thank you! I have dreamt of owning one of these for years and I am going to look at one in a few days' time, with a view to buying. Your video has given me a lot of confidence to know what I need to look out for.
Thank you very much, glad you found it useful! All the best with your new car purchase. Let us know how you get on!
Well, I bought the car, so I am now the happy and proud owner of a tartan red 1963 pull-door MGB Roadster. Sadly it's the wrong time of year to give it a good run out, but come Spring time....! I found your advice very useful and instructive. Like your MG, it shares a garage with an old Land Rover though mine, at 30 years old, is rather younger than yours!
Fantastic news! Glad the video was of use to someone. Enjoy your car!
@@user-bh4rx8mf8g Congrats, the pull handle Bs are my favorites.
Still relevant,thanks,going to see similar car tomorrow on done deal in carlow, looks v good and original,current owners 10yrs,had rebuild. Stored i doors and no rust apparantly. Can check everything you advised, not going to get on a stand, any obvious things to check on test drive? Cheers Andy ,based in Dublin now.
Hi Andy! Glad you’ve found this useful. I suppose while out on a drive I’d be listening carefully for clunks and bangs. Feeling for smooth steering and brakes and good power delivery. All the best with your viewing tomorrow!
Great video with all main points covered.
Thank you very much!
Very good video.Nervously thinking of buying a mgb here in N.Ireland and your video helps.Prices as you say vary .Quite a lot for sale in Belfast and beyond from 5000 to 11000.Prefer the GT but know of a couple of roadsters for sale .
Glad you found it useful Derek, all the best with your purchase!
Very nice example. I hope you'll deal with the bubbling of the offside door sill 4:00 sooner rather than later. I don't know about the MGB but Mini sills were fitted with large drain vents on later cars; I sprayed Supertrol anti rust fluid up my Mini sill drain apertures and they lasted the life of the car. Supertrol soaks into any existing rust and stops further corrosion since it is quite thin, like paraffin (so it may soak into existing rust better than e.g. Waxoyl, not sure on that but it probably won't protect like Waxoyl on areas sprayed by water). Very impressed with your corrosion free engine bay. Overdrive & a Kenlowe electric fan would be good improvements to consider for the future. It looks like the drivers seat has been re-stuffed as compared to the flatter looking passenger seat 11:13. I see the engine was not quite cold, it would have been nice to hear her run even if the carbs were not quite in perfect balance 😁
Thank you for watching! And obviously very intently! Yes, long term plan for a full bare-metal restoration of this beauty. Mechanically does not need a huge amount but then it never starts out that way, does it? Main concern, as you point out, is rust. Hope I have enough time and money soon to get at it! Watch this space!
Very nice. I had a MGB and my friend had a MGBGT. I always thought it was funny that the GT was a little faster than mine. The two single barrel carburetors we’re always a pain to keep tuned.
Didn’t know it was faster, interesting! I think my carbs need done again, but then it is 2 years since I went near them...
I worked as an MG mechanic in the 1960s and early 1970s and I always found SU carbs extremely simple and easy to work on as long as you understood how they worked and used the proper techniques. Sadly in 1970 US air standards forced MG to change some of the clearance tolerances between the piston and the dashpot chamber. In some cars this resulted in erratic idling speeds when fuel deposit buildups caused the piston to stick. Although strictly speaking it was illegal to do so some mechanics cured this problem by using an appropriately sized hone to lightly polish the inside of the dashpot dome thus creating greater clearance.
I bought a brand new 1969 gun metal grey with a black leather interior MGB GT when I left the US Armed Forces in the summer of 1969 . My 105 lb. wife loved to drive that car and cried when I sold it in 1974 for a green Porsche 911T . Still dream of that MGB GT these days but not the Porsche which was a handful to drive. .
Lovely! Great to have those memories, thanks for sharing!
Looking at one for a 1000 bucks wondering if it's worth the work
@@robertmudrow3617 It may be if you can do a lot of the work yourself .The condition of the body is critical . If the rust is easily repairable and you have some mechanical skills go for it after you get an estimate of what needs to be done and the cost of parts . Check the Moss Catalogue ,,,their parts are reasonable ,have incredible inventory and are very helpful on the phone . Good luck !
Right on! Thnks for the pointers. Definitely love the body and wire wheels. Car has character.
Thx for the video. Your opinion please. The best ( desirable and useable ) chrome bumper roadster.
Thanks for watching! Not sure if I understand your question?
Thanks for your reply, my 69 roadster is a basket case with a few years work ahead, I’m envious of yours but optimistic, thanks for the video.
Keep us posted, you’ll get there, keep at it!
Nice presentation. Learned a lot to look for!!
Thanks, glad you found it useful!
The whiplash in those backseats would be wild
I think whiplash may be the least of your problems if you were in the back seat of an MGBGT when it crashed!
Look for rust around windshield, battery tray, bottom of doors (inside).
Yes, all bad places for rust!
Hello :) Great Buyer´s guide thanks for that. Wich prizerange seems resonable for a Roadster from 1973? The one I am looking at is not restored is that a red Flag or nothing to worry too much about.
Thanks for watching! I’m not really up to date with prices at the moment so cannot advise I’m afraid. Unrestored may mean rusty or unmolested, hard to know until you’ve seen it
Salut. Your accent would (to me) suggest you have lived away from Northern Ireland for a number of years, however your origins sound very clear to me. At age 70 and having left Ulster back in 1972 apparently I also retain my accent. I still have to point out any new French acquaintances that je suis Irlandais pas Anglais which always causes them to express how désolé they are to have insulted me! The accent may soften but is seldom lost …… and that is never a problem! Cordialement RB
You’re quite right, born and bred in Northern Ireland but I’ve never left!
@@restosagaSalut Sir, well then je pense that if you have never left Northern Ireland then you possibly went to a good school (even perhaps a Grammar school). That would soften the accent, says the man who went to Regent House Newtownards. I was born and raised in Ulster, went to university in England where I met my English wife of 49 years, then matured for a some time in Yorkshire and maintenant I am delighted to say we are retraite en France (notre pays adopte). La vie en France n’est pas parfait bien sûr, mais c’est très bonne. Vive la France, vive la République. Bon courage! RB
@romeobravo2023 You hit the nail on the head!
Number one in the buyer guide is don’t. Well not if you live in America as you will spend more time waiting for parts and shipping costs than it’s worth. I found that out with my first and only MG. A 74 chrome bumper that was in decent shape. Loved the style and even though it was pricy $4800 in 1998 the seller convinced me it was a great daily driver. Little did I know the brake cylinders in the back were shot. The clutch cylinder as well. Also the “professional” 12v conversion was nothing more than an alternator and starter wires. About 2 months into ownership stuff started shorting out. Then the clutch went at 50 on the freeway just completely lost the pedal. Started trying to hunt parts in US to little avail. 3 ratty non runners the owners refused to part out and wanted $2-3000 for the whole car. Finally found a place in England to get parts but the shipping cost and time was crazy being this was supposed to be my daily. Ended up stranding me one night refusing to start.And after sinking about $1400 in parts over the 7months I owned it I Sold it for $2500.
Thanks for the comment. It sounds like you had a bad experience rather than the MGB in general being a bad car?
I don’t know what your problems were but you can buy absolutely anything from Moss Motors… and I mean anything. Or Victoria British who are now owned by Moss.
I purchased mine back when the internet was still growing. This was in 1982 and the internet wasn’t what it is today. No google or simple searches and no parts stores anywhere had parts for these cars.
@@diemaschine2287 Moss motors was around then and would send you a comprehensive Catalog. Still don’t understand your dilemma
The MGB is one of those cars that have massive numbers of parts suppliers in the US and UK. And, parts are cheap. Moss Motors in Goleta( Santa Barbara) Calif.
British Parts Northwest and Northwest Import Parts in the Portland Or area. There is the Roadster Factory and many others.
As to your experiences with the car, . You are most definitely the wrong owner for an MGB. And your story is BS.
Brilliant, one of the best clours.
Thank you, hard to beat Tartan Red!
@@restosaga Where in the UK can one buy spares from shell and body panels down to switches, thanks....
I always used, and was well served by, MSC Classic Sports Car Parts
A lovely car - keep up the good work - nice to see lots of mg's on the road as when I take my series 3 landy for a sunday run I usually cross paths with a mg...and looking forward to more landy stuff on your channel...great stuff
Thank you very much! Yes, variety is the spice of life but plenty more Landy stuff coming soon! Keep tuned!
Nice car, I've owned 10 MGs, 1x1953 TF, 4x MGBGT, 3X MGB Roadsters and 2x MGC. Presently own a 1970 B Roadster and a 1968 MGC Roadster
Nice one, an experienced owner it seems!
@@restosaga you could say i LIKE MGs
Haha, sounds accurate!
There was no 1953 TF.. The first TF was 1954 with the TD XPAG engine. I have owned a 1946 MG TC right hand drive, with Lucas Laystall cross flow head, bored out, ported, wild west cam, headers, 15" Borani Wheels. 1950 TD set up for Bonneville, a 1953TD Mark II . 1956 MGA, 1964 MGB ( just sold that in Sept.)Now have a 1963 MGB "Tourer" (which is commonly, and mistakenly called a "roadster" )1969 MGC GT with Webasto Sunroof and 4 speed automatic . Also 5 Land Rovers 1958 though 1974, several Morris Minors, 2 Morris Oxfords, 1980 Rover 3500 V8 SD1, 4 Thames vans, 1959 Fairthorpe Electron Climax and few othe Brit cars. s.
Nice thorough review! Very helpful 😊
Thank you and thanks for watching!!!
Nice video. I'm planning on buying one and i would like to know how much do we have to spend on it's yearly maintenance pls? thanks
Thank you! All the best on your hunt. Very hard to budget that with an old car. So many unpredictable bills. If it’s oure normal servicing then £150 would easily do everything each year.
Great helpfull video, thank you
My pleasure, thanks for watching!
Great Vid - But what should look out for when its on a Lift - Sills Floorpan Arches etc???
Rust!!! Yes, sills, all arches, inner and outer, floors, chassis legs and suspension points.
Also castles and dog legs.
I have a really good refurbished 1980 same color as yours with a convertible top and overdrive. Love it but I need to sell it. Where can I get an estimate?
Nice one! I think Hagerty would be the best place to start for a valuation
I have my 1969 MGB that hasn’t been driven in 35 years. I’d like to sell it but haven’t the slightest idea where to start. Rust is not an issue. She has lived in central California under a tarp.
Nice one! Sounds like a great car but might be too far away for me to be of any help!
List it on Facebook market place! That's where we've been looking
You also have Bring a Trailer in the US too?
Janet, let me know if you’d be interested in selling! I’ve been looking for one for a bit now!
@@SpiraIStudios Where are you located?
The horn at 10:16 scared the bejesus out of me.
Haha, like to keep my audience awake!
Sounds like a Belfast NI accent! Love & miss it!
Just outside Belfast but close enough! Thanks for watching!
Bangor? Newtonards?
Not far off!
Why does it look high on the wheel arches? Like the later rubber bumper model with a chrome bumper conversion, lovely car but for that, I’d check the chassis numbers with the Haynes manual, especially because the body condition is so good for a 1969 model, wish you well with it.
The springs are quite new and have had very few miles on them so I think they need to settle. Also I think the tyres may be a little too low profile which will not help. Earlier videos show how low it sat before I got new springs. Thanks for watching!
What about the underside… sills and cross members? Cars from the 70s rotted as fast as a fish in the sun and fail their MOts due to rot.
Very true!
Thanks so much for posting this. Great info. Once I move house some of spare cash will go on a B. A long held ambition. One question...has yours been raised? Odd question I know but it looks like it's at rubber bumper ride height. Or is it just my eyes?!
Thanks for watching! My rear springs took a very long time to settle unfortunately!
Congrats on using the proper knock offs. !
Haha, thanks! I think they look great!
@@restosaga Hard to believe that the original winged knock offs were consider a safety hazard. Big mistake, not as bad a s rubber bumpers but cheaper to correct.
I’d say if you got close to anything spinning at that speed it would be a safety hazard!
Hello,
thank you for this guide. It has been very useful as I am currently looking at a 67 model....that has not moved in almost 22 years!! Apart from what you already mentioned on your video, what else should I be looking for?
cheers
Nice one! 22 years is a long time for a car to not move so pay careful attention to the brakes, possible seized engine and anytging rubber will likely need replaced. All the best!
As someone who has restored numerous MGB's I cannot emphasise enough that RUST is the major issues with ALL MGB's.
The cars, literally started to dissolve as soon as they came off the production line and were parked in the dispatch carpark at the factory! The saving grace is new bodyshells are now available, making expensive sill, floorpan, rear inner and outer wheel arch, front wings repairs a thing of the past!
Mechanically in comparison, they cost buttons to restore as generally they are fairly bulletproof, the B series engine is thankfully, as basic as woodchip wallpaper.
Agreed. Thankfully my B wasn’t too bad from a corrosion perspective but could have been much worse!
Simply not the facts. I bought my 1964 B 6 years ago. 100% original and not a spot of rust anywhere. My friend just bought a 67 GT... NO rust anywhere. He has three other Bs, a 55 TF, a Midget and a TR6. All restored and none had rust. Look harder and you can find one that was well cared for.
@@jeffhildreth9244
I have to ask the question if the 3 other MGB's, 55 TF, Midget and TR6 had no rust, why on earth did they need to be restored?
@@leytonthomas2043 Your question implies that restoration is rust repair; a rather narrow view. Restoration is defined as the act of bring something back to its original condition. Rust removal can be a part of that process. Rubber wears out, paint fades, seat material wears. Brake and clutch cylinders can corrode. Body panels and bumpers can dent, transmission bearings and synchros wear out. Clutches need to be replaced, engines need overhauling, carbs need rebuilding. Carpets wear and fade. All a part of the process. It is better to start with a rust free vehicle. Though I can do rust repair, I would not buy a B that needed extensive rust repair. it. If it was a Cisitalia or other more valuable vehicle, maybe. But not a B. The car is simply not worth it. There were over 500K made. Within 200 miles of me there are roughly 20 for sale . Plenty of choices.
There are "restorations" and there are restorations. It's all about standards and that begins with a sound, rust free car. Pay more, get more, spend less time and money in the long run.
I agree with what you say, however after owning 30 plus MGB' s including a 2 year old Roadster, everyone had the dreaded tinworm to a certain degree. I congratulate you as the only person who has successfully bought a "Rust Free" MGB, it must have never been used as it was originally intended.
Great video. I've just bought a '66 MGB roadster (in Australia) without overdrive. I was wondering if you had thought about converting yours and if you knew how hard/expensive it is to do? Thanks.
I did indeed think of converting it but never got around to it before selling. Very easy to do if you can get the correct gearbox with OD fitted!
Mine has a 5 Speed Datsun B 210 Tranny…. Works beautifully
"converting"...It is not advisable to add an overdrive unit to your transmission. Buy an O'drive box , install it add a switch and get the drive shaft specifically for the O'Drive transmission.
nice video, really helpful.
Thank you, Sir!
Looking at buying a mgb gt 1980 but only place I can keep it is outside in British weather, and will be using it as a daily vehicle to and from work everyday - is it best to give this one a miss as keeping it outside in the rain will just cause it to rust massively?
I’d say as long as you buy a good rust-free car and look after it with regular anti-rust treatment then you should be fine. Prevention is better (and cheaper) than a cure!
Rain isn't the problem, it's salt and mud that cause issues. Keep it clean and seal it underneath, avoid driving on salted roads. Great cars, perfectly useable as a daily driver.
Agreed
The oil cooler on my '70 BGT was set between the engine and oil filter. I had no idea I had an oil cooler let alone that it had some corrosion in it that let loose and screwed up my bearings and other engine parts. The filter should have been placed between the oil cooler and the engine. Would have saved me a lot of money and frustration. It was plenty of fun to drive when it was working well.
Aw that’s painful, sorry to hear that
So I found one these MK IV mgbs. It runs and everything. My question is about the last 1000 mkiv. We're they split between y'all's home and states?
I’m afraid I wouldn’t be the best to advise you on that. My own is a Mk2. The last MGBs were the ‘LE’ model as far as I know? Thanks for watching!
Ok I thank you very much with the knowledge you gave me about the LE. It turns out Henry Ford 2 ordered 1000 in 80 for the American market. That's where the old triumph stuff on it comes from my intake Is also the same as your gt very nice car by the way. I am rebuilding it this year. If you would care to see the process look at my channel. Thank you again from one car guy to another.
I looked at your site and the car. It is a rubber bumper B. The least desirable. I can tell that the carbs have been replaced, that is a good thing. If you did not have a full blown shop and were just another Joe buying an MGB I would say stop. It's not worth it. If you are doing this for fun, and not a financial return, go ahead. But to fix and sell.. not advisable. Best of lick.
@@jeffhildreth9244 thx you i was thinking the same thing until I found one of these whole. Everything was same i was baffled still am. I got caught up in my dirt work and pushed it to back off shop. So one day ill get back to it. Just get paid better on the skid steer. Lol
Very useful. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks!
It was named MGB because it replaced the MGA, not because it had a 'B' series engine. The MGA also had a (smaller) 'B' series lump. Also, there's one common fault you missed. The tops of the doors often develop a vertical split, just below the rear edge of the quarter-light and known to owners as the 'crack of doom'. It's more common on roadsters, so that may be why you didn't mention it.
Good knowledge!!
More likely chassis flex than weight of mirrors!
@captain pugwash Don't think so, 'cos it happens even when the car has no mirrors (on the doors, not the wings!). Besides, it only seems to occur on roadsters and, almost always, under the rear edge of the quarter-light, indicating there's some design fault in the way the door fits against the (different from GT) windscreen of the soft-tops.
I'm glad I read this far in the comments. I was going to point out the MGA, not the B series engine thing. By the way, I think the MG C was named for the C series engine although I could be wrong, it's happened before (1979, I think ;-)).
@@frankhaney8535 You could be right, especially as the MGC wasn't an all-new model (unlike the difference between the 'A' and the 'B').
Could be it has smaller wheels than original?
Just seeing your comment after I replied to the first, think the wheels are correct but tyres may not be
What did you pay for this? What’s it worth today
Many thanks
Bought for £2750, sold for £4500
Wow I just paid 15k for mine
@zachminto7220 Mine was a good car, from 6ft!
I want to take it for a ride!
It was a great car to own, thank you!
Traduire en Francais.Mercie 😊
Sorry, my French would not be good enough to do this!
Thanks!
Glad you found it useful!
10:17 don’t do that to me again! 😂
Haha, a little suprise for us all!
Restosaga Classic Car Restoration I was using headphones. Damn near jumped out of my skin!
Hahaha, from memory someone turned up in the Minor and did that!
Yeh was a bit harsh the b is a good car but just like the motorcycle industry we just kept on making the same machines tarted up for decades .sad realy because we had the skills to beat the world but if you take just one example the management of the last remnants of our motorcycle industry didnt even like motorcycles .We. seem always to put people at the top of industries which they have no knowledge.Ernest marples minister for transport couldnt even drive.!!!!????? Cheers and have fun
Fair point! As a nation, our car production periods do seem to go on a bit! Mini/ Minor/ Land Rover etc are all examples
Hi, can I reach you through an email address? Or is there a way to send a private message?
Hi, no problem, I can be directly messaged through Facebook or Instagram? There is a Restosaga page on both platforms. Twitter too!
Yours is a ten foot car - just like mine. :)
How do you mean?
@@restosaga Looks great from ten foot away.
Hahaha, very good
Now that's a very particular accent. Northern Ireland? By the way, Nice car.
Thank you! And yes, Northern Ireland, you got it in one!
Why do people think this austin Cambridge in drag is a great car ,out of date when it was first built ,wont pull the skin of a rice pudding,handles like a badly put together chicken pen and rusts better than my beautiful but up to date ( even now ) 1979 alfa
Ouch! A scathing review if there ever was one. Everyone is entitled to their opinion but I enjoy this one as it’s fun, easy to work on and cheap to maintain. Do like classic Alfas though!!!
Harry New - Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
Harry New ....Worked at an MG specialist for a few years. A nicely restored ‘B’ can be a delight to own, like any British classic. Variety is the spice of life. For me, while an MX-5 is a capable car, I would probably build a ‘B’ if I was doing one to the standards of the Frontline Development cars...I have Jaguars, but a nice MGA or MGB roadster would be a nice consideration.
A well considered, and informed, opinion!
Why title this an 'MGB Buyer's Guide' when there's no mention of price for any of them including this one, not very helpful to someone looking to buy one....
If you actually watch until the end of the video you would understand why I did not make a price guide. It is titled as a Buyer's Guide, not a Price Guide, for a reason.
The only MG,s worth having are. MGB. V8. otherwise get a Mazda MX-5
I can get behind that. Though the T series from the 30s are very nice too!
V 8 the MGC?
Grant Barclay the Olds/Rover 3.5 litre V 8. Weighs a lot less than the MBG 4 potter and even more lighter than the MGC. 6 cyclinders. Result in both cases less weight on suspension and better handling. The MGC. Was fast but didn’t like going round corners because of the boat anchor it had under the hood Body would need to be stiffened to counter act torque of motor
@@granto6712 No the MGC is a 3L straight 6, easily noticeable by the bubble in the bonnet
@@andysneikus380 my dad got one the day I was born 13 July 67 fef 11E, white
MGB buyers guide? Don't.
Succinct! If a little harsh maybe?
@@restosaga Maybe.But then the rust, the oil leaks and that engine and the account at Rimmer Bros... Don't buy a cheap one unless you have deep pockets and a lot of time.
I
@@donaldasayers You are definitely a wrong owner for a B.
@@jeffhildreth9244 I know. I had a Kitcar with an MGB engine, pissed oil on the azaleas, never stayed in tune...
You failed to mention a lot of things. Most importantly though you missed out a lot where the bodywork is concerned, a heck of a lot and all of it very important areas and things to check!!
Sorry you were disappointed by the video.
OK : list them please.
MGB buyers guide buy a TR 6 or big HEALY better still a Porche
Not really very realistic or helpful. Those cars are all brilliant but in completely different price brackets to an MGB.
I wanted a TR6 until I drove one. I wanted one until I worked on one. Industrial quality, looks ok but cramped and a bear to drive. Goofy rear suspension.
I prefer the 100-4 . in the mid 60s I owned a 1953 Porsche Bent Window coupe. Cool car, now worth a considerable amount of money.
Thanks!
My pleasure, thank you for watching!