This will all get faster if you index the set tru grubs with where the DTI is clocked on the endmill. That way the adjustments are a true 1 to 1. Nice looking chuck! I’m getting the 5C from them soon.
The instructions say to torque the bolts to 34.5 Nm when installing the back plate. The common method of installing on a D 1-4 mount is to try each D 1-4 bolt pattern until you find the one that has the least runout and then stamp that position on your new chuck based on the stamp on your spindle. Only then do you adjust the screws on the adjustable chuck. Never beat on the chuck at any point. For your information I own and use an adjustable Precision Matthews chuck.
This has its purpose, and I was thinking a out getting one. And wanted to see how the adjustments worked. but ill stick to a 4 jaw. Mostly because I'm already familiar. Thanks for the visual.
Interesting setup video, but the point of an adjustable tir chuck is to achieve repeatability. Did you test the tir after removing and rechucking the end mill? How about testing whether tightening using different lock lugs changed the situation? I have the 1236T with their er40 collet chuck and a 4 jaw, I’d be interested to see whether the $700 for this 3 jaw is worth it. Also, the main difference besides mass and size in the 1228 vs either 1236 is the variable speed motor vs the geared head. Some will prefer the lower maintenance of the variable speed motor
The 1228 suited my needs, so that is what I purchased. But heck, if you were going to go for the 12x36, why not got for the 12x36T instead? Of course ALL of the 12x36s are on back order, so perhaps the discussion is moot anyway.
@@corvetteflorida On the fence over the PM-1228 or the PM-1236. Like you I think the PM-1228 might suit me. Runs on 110V and can be mounted on a tool cabinet. But the PM-1236 does come with the stand, face plate and 4 jaw chuck. Still on the fence. Thank you for this video.
@@oltredding Hmm, so they stopped providing the 4 jaw chuck with the 1228? It came standard with mine. As for the cabinet, honestly, put the lathe on a worktable and put tool chests underneath. If you buy tooling, you are going to NEED the storage area for all the stuff you will accumulate. The standard stand is pretty much useless for that purpose. IMHO any way. Besides the 1236 was just too big an way too heavy for what I wanted to handle putting it into my garage. I think the 1228 suits my needs just fine.
@@corvetteflorida Hi Rich, yes, the 4-jaw chuck is no longer included. The PM-1228 struck me as the near-perfect solution/size. I have been devouring TH-cam videos showing its unpacking and use for days. But I have a 30X50-foot metal building. The wife has sewing in one half and I have electronics, woodworking, and now the machine shop. I already have the 220V single-phase outlets. So the only thing stopping me is the size of the PM-1236. However, others have managed it and I am sure I will be able to manage it as well. I truly appreciate all the time it takes to make and post a video. Thank you.
Hmm so where are your feeler gauges now eh? So in the end you realized your problems were just typical 3 jaw runout and decided to buy a true set... So even the dense and stubborn can learn indeed. Just to think you were about to take a Dremel to your spindle not long ago. You didn't try to grind your spindle did you .. Xst....
You presented yourself as a fool in your effort to make him feel foolish. You’re like the kid standing at the doorway upset because nobody’s paying attention. “I’m leaving now…” Why even say anything if his methods and video are so far beneath you?
This will all get faster if you index the set tru grubs with where the DTI is clocked on the endmill. That way the adjustments are a true 1 to 1. Nice looking chuck! I’m getting the 5C from them soon.
The instructions say to torque the bolts to 34.5 Nm when installing the back plate. The common method of installing on a D 1-4 mount is to try each D 1-4 bolt pattern until you find the one that has the least runout and then stamp that position on your new chuck based on the stamp on your spindle. Only then do you adjust the screws on the adjustable chuck. Never beat on the chuck at any point. For your information I own and use an adjustable Precision Matthews chuck.
This has its purpose, and I was thinking a out getting one. And wanted to see how the adjustments worked. but ill stick to a 4 jaw. Mostly because I'm already familiar. Thanks for the visual.
Interesting setup video, but the point of an adjustable tir chuck is to achieve repeatability. Did you test the tir after removing and rechucking the end mill? How about testing whether tightening using different lock lugs changed the situation? I have the 1236T with their er40 collet chuck and a 4 jaw, I’d be interested to see whether the $700 for this 3 jaw is worth it. Also, the main difference besides mass and size in the 1228 vs either 1236 is the variable speed motor vs the geared head. Some will prefer the lower maintenance of the variable speed motor
It might have come apart easier if you had applied cold to shrink the bolts.
Looks and sounds nice lathe but its 5000$ with stand right now. At that point for a bit more you can get a 12x36 lathe that has some more mass.
The 1228 suited my needs, so that is what I purchased. But heck, if you were going to go for the 12x36, why not got for the 12x36T instead? Of course ALL of the 12x36s are on back order, so perhaps the discussion is moot anyway.
@@corvetteflorida On the fence over the PM-1228 or the PM-1236. Like you I think the PM-1228 might suit me. Runs on 110V and can be mounted on a tool cabinet. But the PM-1236 does come with the stand, face plate and 4 jaw chuck. Still on the fence. Thank you for this video.
@@oltredding Hmm, so they stopped providing the 4 jaw chuck with the 1228? It came standard with mine. As for the cabinet, honestly, put the lathe on a worktable and put tool chests underneath. If you buy tooling, you are going to NEED the storage area for all the stuff you will accumulate. The standard stand is pretty much useless for that purpose. IMHO any way.
Besides the 1236 was just too big an way too heavy for what I wanted to handle putting it into my garage. I think the 1228 suits my needs just fine.
@@corvetteflorida Hi Rich, yes, the 4-jaw chuck is no longer included. The PM-1228 struck me as the near-perfect solution/size. I have been devouring TH-cam videos showing its unpacking and use for days. But I have a 30X50-foot metal building. The wife has sewing in one half and I have electronics, woodworking, and now the machine shop. I already have the 220V single-phase outlets. So the only thing stopping me is the size of the PM-1236. However, others have managed it and I am sure I will be able to manage it as well. I truly appreciate all the time it takes to make and post a video. Thank you.
Oh God, this is too painful to watch.....I'm outta here.
Hopefully you will keep it that way. You sure do have a very high opinion of yourself, don't you?
@@corvetteflorida My intention is not to ruffle your feathers....I suffer fools badly and your methods are foolish in the extreme.
Hmm so where are your feeler gauges now eh?
So in the end you realized your problems were just typical 3 jaw runout and decided to buy a true set... So even the dense and stubborn can learn indeed.
Just to think you were about to take a Dremel to your spindle not long ago. You didn't try to grind your spindle did you .. Xst....
@@axa.axa. Jump to conclusions much? LOL!!
You presented yourself as a fool in your effort to make him feel foolish. You’re like the kid standing at the doorway upset because nobody’s paying attention. “I’m leaving now…”
Why even say anything if his methods and video are so far beneath you?