Quick. Easy. Too the point. I watched 5 different videos. All kinds of production values. Yours was the best. Saved me time. You should link to the products in your description though because you can get paid for that.
Me too man, I thought this one was very informative, and would love those sharpening files he had. I used Smith's retractable diamond coated steel rod sharpener (SM DIMD PCKT SHP) seemed to work just as good I guess, I mean way sharper after the fact for sure:)
Lots of good tips here! Just some friendly advice if more for the not so regular sharpeners out there... consider wearing gloves when sharpening such tools to protect yourself from getting tetanus! Tetanus enters the body through a wound or cut. It doesn't happen a lot but surely is worth it to be careful considering the symptoms. Symptoms can include: Stiffness of the neck, jaw, and other muscles, often accompanied by a sneering, grinning expression. Difficulty swallowing. Fever. Sweating. Uncontrollable spasms of the jaw, called lockjaw, and neck muscles. Painful, involuntary contraction of other muscles.
Gardeners need tetanus shot every 4-5 years, much more frequently than the 8-10 years recommended for the general population. Gloves should be worn for all gardening tasks, but thorns penetrate frequently.
It's amazing these guys that come in here and try to tell you how to do the job. They just can't wait to drop in and share how much they think they know when they don't know Jack sh*t.
Yes folks do take their tools apart for thorough cleaning. But most of the tools I sharpen at events are well used: dirty and rusty, so taking them apart is pretty much not an option.
Yes, I agree you don’t “sharpen” the back/inner side of the blades of bypass pruners... you “clean” them, and most likely with the same tool you sharpened the bevel. You’re removing gunk, sap, and large nicks. Call it what you like.
My biggest complaint with loppers is the bypass is so faint that after a year or so of very little use they won't cut all the way thru the limb. They barely have a 1/16th of overlap, so the blade won't cut all the way thru. How crazy is that.
Unsure what the issue is with your loppers. However I have found all-metal loppers, as pictured in video, really don’t hold up well at all. I have disposed of mine.
You pronounced loppers as if it were spelled low pers. Loping along, as you pronounced it, means gently running or trotting. The correct pronunciation is as if it were spelled lop pers. You lop a branch off, or cut it.
I believe you have an "anvil" style pruner. He is sharpening a "bypass" pruner. Bypass works like a scissors, but only the top "scissor" is a sharp blade. The bottom one is just a stiff jaw-like thing that braces against the stem, stalk or branch. The top "scissor" slides against the flat side of this jaw (confusingly, also called an anvil). The one you have, as you describe it, the blade comes straight down on top of the anvil. It doesn't slide against it. Your anvil-style pruners probably have a wider anvil than the ones shown here to make room for that groove yours has. If you didn't *have* that groove, your cutting blade might not cut through the last bit of stem or stalk or branch. The groove ensures it slices all the way through. .
More important is wet cleaning, then drying after most uses... not putting them away wet after use... With that done, I sharpen mine about every 2 months with light use... after each heavy use.
![[ ออกกอง ] วัยหนุ่ม 2544 โลกหลังลูกกรง..ทัวร์กองถ่ายหนังใน "คุกของจริง" | JUSTดูIT.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vB--aOkZCpw/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks. I've been asking my husband for years.
You can probably make this video a 5 minute video. Thanks again 😊
Once again the You Tube community made my life easier, kinda like on line neighbors with helpful hints. Many Thanks!
Quick. Easy. Too the point. I watched 5 different videos. All kinds of production values. Yours was the best. Saved me time. You should link to the products in your description though because you can get paid for that.
Me too man, I thought this one was very informative, and would love those sharpening files he had. I used Smith's retractable diamond coated steel rod sharpener (SM DIMD PCKT SHP) seemed to work just as good I guess, I mean way sharper after the fact for sure:)
I just went into my garage, grabbed my Dremel and sharpened my pruning tools. Wow! Makes a huge difference. Like brand new.
What attachment should i use?
Yup.
O mate great info I look after whittling ham Hall Norfolk and those tips you gave will benefit me immensely many top man u now your stuff cheers
Thanks !! Ordered the eze-lap set because of you. Also liked your attention to saving the blade metal by not being anal about the burrs !!
Thank you so much! I now can prune as well as when they were new.
Awesome...going outside to sharpen loppers and a pair of snips. Thanks so much!!
Dismantle your secateurs when sharpening them.Clean & lube them while you're at it.
Thank you for great video
Thank you for posting!
Good Job....Much Appreciated .....Thanks!
Lots of good tips here! Just some friendly advice if more for the not so regular sharpeners out there... consider wearing gloves when sharpening such tools to protect yourself from getting tetanus! Tetanus enters the body through a wound or cut. It doesn't happen a lot but surely is worth it to be careful considering the symptoms. Symptoms can include:
Stiffness of the neck, jaw, and other muscles, often accompanied by a sneering, grinning expression.
Difficulty swallowing.
Fever.
Sweating.
Uncontrollable spasms of the jaw, called lockjaw, and neck muscles.
Painful, involuntary contraction of other muscles.
Gardeners need tetanus shot every 4-5 years, much more frequently than the 8-10 years recommended for the general population. Gloves should be worn for all gardening tasks, but thorns penetrate frequently.
Clear easy to follow technique demo. Wear some gloves though, bro!
Great Tutorial! Thank you.
I think it is better to take them apart for beter control an do not forget de-rusting
Thank you very much great demo, very helpful. 😊
Thank you
Wow 777 likes! I almost don’t want to be the one to “ like” to mess up the magic numbers! Lol
If you slip stitches hurt too.
Thank you!
Very good advice, thanks.
It's amazing these guys that come in here and try to tell you how to do the job. They just can't wait to drop in and share how much they think they know when they don't know Jack sh*t.
Dick ...what’s the point of your comment?
Dick Meyers , are you saying you don’t like the video?
I just wanted you to know thank you I did it like you said very good
Where did you purchase the files you were using?
Thanks very well done
And the big ones are ‘loppers’, not ‘lopers’. Good video. Thanks.
Why not take them apart, clean and remove the rust, sharpen and reassemble them?
Yes folks do take their tools apart for thorough cleaning. But most of the tools I sharpen at events are well used: dirty and rusty, so taking them apart is pretty much not an option.
Ain’t nobody got time for that 😄
You don't sharpen the back of the blades it meets with the flat surface on the other side that's how it cuts
Yes, I agree you don’t “sharpen” the back/inner side of the blades of bypass pruners... you “clean” them, and most likely with the same tool you sharpened the bevel. You’re removing gunk, sap, and large nicks. Call it what you like.
My biggest complaint with loppers is the bypass is so faint that after a year or so of very little use they won't cut all the way thru the limb. They barely have a 1/16th of overlap, so the blade won't cut all the way thru. How crazy is that.
Unsure what the issue is with your loppers. However I have found all-metal loppers, as pictured in video, really don’t hold up well at all. I have disposed of mine.
Great job but how about an updated video?
Ok. Thx
You pronounced loppers as if it were spelled low pers. Loping along, as you pronounced it, means gently running or trotting.
The correct pronunciation is as if it were spelled lop pers. You lop a branch off, or cut it.
asmr?
'These will cut your FINGERS OFF!'
how did i get here from memeulous?
I have a sharp edge on top flat on bottom with a ridge in the middle
I believe you have an "anvil" style pruner. He is sharpening a "bypass" pruner. Bypass works like a scissors, but only the top "scissor" is a sharp blade. The bottom one is just a stiff jaw-like thing that braces against the stem, stalk or branch. The top "scissor" slides against the flat side of this jaw (confusingly, also called an anvil). The one you have, as you describe it, the blade comes straight down on top of the anvil. It doesn't slide against it. Your anvil-style pruners probably have a wider anvil than the ones shown here to make room for that groove yours has. If you didn't *have* that groove, your cutting blade might not cut through the last bit of stem or stalk or branch. The groove ensures it slices all the way through. .
How often should I sharpen then?
More important is wet cleaning, then drying after most uses... not putting them away wet after use... With that done, I sharpen mine about every 2 months with light use... after each heavy use.
have a snap-cut type
Robert, it’s pronounced ‘easy lap”.
Huh?
Secateurs not "snips"...
Here in Australia we call them "swillorienogs."
@@calvinstulip 😂
That's dumb