well done young man , and thank you for answering the many questions that people had , I am 71 years young and still have my 91 GMC short box and still do my own work , thank you again .
Love how deliberate and clear your instructions are for each step. Most people probably have a very limited understanding of how an A/C system works. So without clear instruction it's easy to get confused and make mistakes. Thank you for doing this!
I was telling my wife this was the most through and well done ac video I have ever seen. Then you stopped at reading the gauges and went off only the weight. Well kudos upto that point.
Dude, you are the BEST instructor ever. No silly background music. No fluff. No opinions. Just facts and sharing the skills so many people need for survival. Thanks and praise.
Just a NOTE worthy note. When connecting the hoses to the ports High and Low, to open the system, the knobs need to be rotated clockwise which presses on the Schrader valve to OPEN the system and counterclockwise to close the system.
Great video! I was able to completely rebuild and retrofit the ac system in my 1990 silverado k1500 by the Grace of God and the how to knowledge shown here. Thank you! Keep it up!!
This video walk through really helped me with my 94 C1500. I ended up replacing everything except the evaporator behind the dash. Took me 6 hours in all, but saved me loads of money! I tried to remove the old orifice to see what it was like, and I couldn't even pull it out of the condenser. I cut the tube area in half and it was plugged up! No wonder the system failed! No flow! The only difference in the way I had to recharge mine and the recharge shown here is that the Freon canisters today have a resealable can, which in the video has the old style piercing valve. After I vacuumed the system and closing the quick connections at High and Low ports being careful not to allow any air back in the system. I had to recharge mine through the Low pressure port as if topping it off. Remember YOU MUST PURGE the short hose while connecting to the port to prevent air back in the system. The vacuum in the system took about 2 cans before I needed to start the truck. You must burnish the shaft/clutch when you start it up. If there is enough Freon in the system to engage the clutch during start up, the instructions indicate turning the AC on/off at least a dozen times to burnish the clutch shaft. Then I proceeded to put the remaining Freon in the system. So the back story to my situation here is the first compressor I bought from Auto Zone went bad! After about 3 days driving and a couple hour drive to camp for the weekend, the bearing was squealing like a banshee! I ended up changing it out and returned for warranty replacement. What a PIA! Fingers crossed! So far still cold! Thank you again for this video. Like many DIY'ers, we just need that reassurance sometimes that we are on the right track in doing the project.
HotRodRico: Burnishing the clutch surface is a short process by engaging (on/off) the AC so the new clutch shaft surfaces are, if you will, mated, sanded or polished by the short on/ off intervals. This assures the surfaces have even contact across the clutch shaft for optimun performance. Hope this explaination helps.
I have a 92 K2500 with 6.2 Detriot that did not come with an AC system from the factodirection. Previous owner lived in Cananda and did not need AC. I live in North Florida and DEFINITELY need AC! I had no idea what all I would need to do to install one, but this definitely steers me in the right direction.
Thank you so much for doing it step by step. I was not going to change my condenser but your video just made me do it. Pulling vacuum as I'm typing. My 1988 gmc will have ac today. You rock 100% support your videos.
I Have watched a couple of your videos, and they are very helpful. I have a 1988 short bed 350, 700 r4 that I have owned since 1998. It is a good truck ,but I could have done a better job of keeping it up. With your help I am going to restore it .
BTW my 90 silverado k1500 originally had the 1st design system in it and the knowledge in this video helped me to convert to the 2nd design which is much easier to find parts for. Thanks again!!
I watched this about 10 times and used it as reference during the job. Thank you so much for the detailed steps and parts list. You’ve saved the obs community thousands of $$$. You need a qr code on your vid so i can venmo you some cash for a cold beer. Thanks!
Thank you. This is terrific. I had no idea whether or not I'd be even capable of doing this sort of job. I'm glad I looked it up. Now I'm quite sure that I can do it. And so.....maybe I'll get my A/C back. I'm unlikely to pay a pro to do it. There are better things to spend that money on. But I just might do it myself now.
Also for the benefit of your viewers, there were 2 slightly different setups in 1990. Unlike yours, mine had a slightly different condenser and a two piece liquid line which houses the orifice tube right at the joint in the two liquid lines. I highly recommend converting it to the condenser that houses the orifice tube and replace the liquid line with the version that you used. I had already installed the condenser only to discover that the orifice housing had been bulged inward, likely from corrosion buildup between the nut and line. I couldn't even get the old orifice out. I had to call GM to get a part number for that line and found that it was discontinued with no available aftermarket replacement. I'm sure that the parts house would have taken the condenser back in exchange for orificed version, but I had already reinstalled the grille. Fortunately, I was able to restore the end of that liquid line to its original shape using a large tapered punch and successfully flush the line and replace the orifice tube.
Nicely done. I've used this video a lot while rebuilding my entire HVAC system in my 1995 Chevy Silverado. I went way further. I removed my dash and rebuilt my air box. That would be a good video to have.
Can you please tell me how expensive parts and work was? Or, guesstimate on the number of mechanic hours to complete? I'm considering replacing the entire system on my 89 g20 van. Thank you!
Great Video. You are a savior! I’m putting together a 1993 Chevy k1500 Blazer and I was lost on where to go with replacing the AC system. Very clear and exact video! You’ve got a new subscriber.
I replaced the evaporator core. It turns out that I had to remove the dash after all. It wasn't too bad. Anyhow, I vacuumed the system but waited to charge it until I got a retrofit low pressure switch. I figured that your 3 can weights should be really close so I used two full cans and my two partials from my previous attempts. I had already returned the manifold tool so I used the little screw on tool with a trigger and built in gauge. It turns out that the trigger was going bad so I had keep repeatedly squeezing it to get it all dispensed. I called my wife to pick up a new one and another can of r 134 as she was on her way home from work. I figured I still needed about two ounces but when I hooked up the next can with the new properly functioning dispenser and gauge, it showed 55 lbs of pressure so I didn't give it any more. It's definitely functioning well now, but I feel like it could be a tinge cooler. Can you go by the pressure? The 55 psi is in the yellow part of the gauge. Does that mean it's slightly overcharged?
You were lucky. I'm replacing the entire dual HVAC system on a ,93 GMC Suburban and replacing all the lines for the rear ac heater unit. All the steel fittings on the aluminum lines were frozen solid and I twisted the ones on the condenser and the rest evaporator. I put so much torque on the evaporator nut it deformed it! I found a heavy duty hose kit that eliminates all the corroded metal lines underneath the truck. This is not an easy or clean job as old nasty coolant and refrigerant oil and green dye running down your arms as your cutting the old lines out from under the truck.
Very professional. Really appreciate watching someone that knows what they're doing. Hav 1 question, I was planning on reusing original compresser and evaporater. Is there any problems with that. Have new dryer condenser,and new lines. It's a 1991 5.0 with 2cnd design. Thanks Rick
The only reason I was looking at this video was to find the trick to take the compressor rat without removing the clutch. That was cleverly bypassed, and the hard part of the job was already done clutch on this one we're working with is rusted and frozen I guess I'll cut the bolts.
good job on the video. One thing I noticed is the orifice tube was installed backwards. I believe the side with the smaller screen is supposed to be inserted first.
Yeah I just did a R134a compressor on my 94 S10 blazer last week and man what a different I used a new AC Delco R134a compressor and it does make a difference on what compressor you use.don't use a cheap aftermarket compressor.
You may not have one, we have had a couple of people comment that their truck was not equipped with a high pressure switch. I would install the system the same way it was from the factory in your case.
When switching cans like your second one turn your needle down all the way that way when you remove the can the hose gets no air then screw on second can with needle piercing can
Why does my 94 have the standard r134 fill connect I've been trying too get my ac going but my clutch won't engage I thought it was bc it was outta freon so I tried filling it it read empty and when I squeezed the trigger it went too over filled but I didn't hardly put any freon in lol
I feel like I gotta do the same thing with my 98 Sonoma possibly at least I think tho probably look at it some more see if I need to do more than I think. If that makes sense lol.
😂 I can't get any of the high side R 12 to 134 adapters from the parts store to screw onto the R ,12 high side fitting. It's supposed to be a 3/8ths 24 th threads per in. But it's very difficult to screw on like it is the thread is metric or is course thread. I. Bought 4 kits and none of them had a high side fitting that would work. No problem with the low side
Great DIY vid. Now subscribed, but with a question. Every step was quite clear and well explained but video time lapsed forward at the point where refrigerant cans had to be swapped during the fill process. So, my question is: Are the lines (valves) left open or are they closed as each new can of refrigerant is connected to be drawn into the system?
Very helpful, currently working on my a/c. Same model truck. With a completely new and dry system. How many Oz of peg oil is needed. I can't seem to find a solid answer on this. Thanks.
Very thorough. Wondering if I missed something though. What is the process for changing refrigerant canisters? Is it a repeat of the process shown in the video, or is there another process?
I did this on my 90 without the benefit of this video. I added all 8 ounces of oil directly to the compressor and am now having trouble getting the system to take any more than 6 ounces of r134. I also didn't realize the need to retrofit the low pressure switch on the dryer. Do I need to disassemble and redistribute the oil? Or can I just replace the low pressure switch? It seems like it's building too much pressure on the low side. (Boy I wish I'd found this video earlier. I've had such trouble finding information for this year and you seem to have it all- even the washers and extension for the compressor ports. I used two greens with a machine bushing and o ring on the one side to even them.)
@@SuburbanRanch yes it kicks on for very brief spurts and then shuts off. I'm a little concerned about the evaporator core. When I flushed it out with compressed air the flow seemed rather restricted. I'm not sure if that's just a normal part of air travelling through those small passages. I tried charging with one of those trigger operated screw on tools and the gauge quickly went into the red. Also, I vacuumed the system but quickly disconnected at the ports while the vacuum was running because the seals in the hoses of the loaner manifold tool were shot and wouldn't hold the seal. (That's why I didn't just charge it through the manifold toll)
I just researched your evaporator core flush sequence. In retrospect, mine definitely did not flow that freely, it just trickled out when forced by compressed air. I went ahead and order a new one. I'll let you know how it turns out. I found another video on how to replace it without removing the dash.
Hello Thank you very much for the wonderful video I still wanted to ask, I have a 1989 G20 with a rear air conditioning unit as well, I saw that you put a total of 8oz of oil, do I need to put more oil in my system because there is also a rear unit Thanks
Ken Moore - again. I am trying to convert my 87 GMC R1500 pickup. The old or original R4 it did not have the high pressure switch as your 88 does. So the video shows you with a one wire that you are switching to the two wire required. So have searched the internet for days but nothing shown on where or how to wire the hi pressure cut out switch. So wondering if I can use a dual hi/lo switch on accumulator, but what do I do with the hi pressure switch in the R4, your video shows the low pressure connector going back on the compressor clutch switch. So my dilemna is what do I do with the hi pressure wiring. I know one goes to the ground but where is the other wire supposed to go? Thanks, Enjoy your videos
I'm in the same dilemma...'93 sierra.reading comments I see there are several that do not have a wire for HP switch. May I ask what you ended up doing with yours?
I’m terribly grateful for your video, I’m going to do the entire system on my 91 454 Silverado, I do plan to reuse my lines and just to assure myself, you’d recommend using the “pro flush” on all reused components? And blowing out residue with compressed air? Thank you sir
@@SuburbanRanch it’s odd, I searched all the same part numbers you’ve used and everything stated it was compatible with my 91 k3500 7.4L tbi vehicle except the A/C hose, so I figured if my original hoses and lines aren’t damaged or have holes, just to flush them and use the green O rings and dab some pag oil on them and run it
@@SuburbanRanch do you know if the pressure switch is universal on the s header valve side? Seeing that we’re going from r12- r134a I look up the switch and it says not compatible with my vehicle. I’m thinking as long as the 2pin connector fits and the a schrader valve fits then it’s fine
I really appreciate your videos. However, on my 1990 GMC c1500 (that I bought new) the accumulator tube GM part 15669969 has galvonic corroded itself to the evaporator and there seems to be a leak at the fitting that is impossible to remove. Thinking the o-ring is bad, but since I have searched every parts source and salvage lot with no help on locating one, I now have replaced everything like you did and flushed the evaporator but will not hold a vacuum. Any thoughts on where to find the A/C accumulator tube that was used on all GM 1988-1991 pickups?
What color are the wires that are in the connector that goes on the front of the compressor? Trying to reinstall AC in my 91 after it was previously gutted. Unfortunately none of the wires were labeled.
I have a 93 Chevy obs step side , and I want to say all though I’m a little bit slower learner I feel like I can do mines with perfection just like you an do save thousands of unnecessary spent dollars, could you give me a list of things I should replace before starting this project so I don’t run into any problems I really want to replace any thing that could leak I had it checked once and the guy told and showed me exactly what was leaking but I can’t remember the name
Hey brother....I love watching your vidz......What is your first name...?? Im Steve...I have a 1988 K 1500 4x4 The Off Road Edition half ton with a beefed up suspension....Why does your engine compartment look like its brand new cuz mine looks old and grungy....lol.....My AC hasnt worked in about 6 years,,,, but thats about to change cuz youve inspired me that I can do this job myself Ive got all the parts except im just waiting on the lquid line and the condensor to come in....this truck is going to my nephew when I pass and I want it to blow ice cubes for him. Thanks and PEACE Brother
I can't seem to find any information about what "part" the line from the dryer leading into the fire wall at the beginning of the video is... I plan on replacing everything you did in this video, but I couldn't help but be curious as to what it is.
Ok so my factory AC compressor hose fitting was flush and now the new one I have it one thin and one thick like yours where did you get the gaskets, only 2 thin gasket came with the compressor….
Whats up thanks for the resourceful video, i was able to install the ac, but i had a question the next day after the install i turn on the ac and it leaked all the ac gas, im assuming i probably didn’t connect the ac pressure switch cables right. One has a letter A and another B, can you let me know which one is power and the other ground? Please and thanks in advance.
So I did this twice, the first time I didn’t add oil and the ac lines got cold and the second time I did add oil to all the same things you did and now non of the lines get cold and the ac doesn’t work, what can I do to fix it?
I feel like you left out a few things at the end like do you close low port valve between changes of cans and how much psi do we need total and is it possible to allow more air into system if we drain the can too much
Hey I bought everything you listed and I am going to do the complete change out like you did. Question: do you know what the size and length of the ac compressor bolts? My truck is missing these bolts. I bought it with the bypass pulley on it.
I can't get my lines to seal at the back of the compressor new lines, and compressor, they sent 4 diff seals...can't get them to hold, lines seem stepped any suggestions? Edit just watched this very informative. Thank you brother...think I was missing the pilot, 🤞 let's hope it passes the damn leak test this time. Bout frustrated w this one. 😂
I have a very important question sir. I have a '93 GMC Sierra 5.7 that I'm doing same thing to it and following your instructions exactly. Only I have one big problem with the high pressure switch. There is NO WIRE present!!! I've looked through the wiring harness. Still no wire. What can I do to wire my HP switch? Can I run a wire off the LP switch? Fuse box? Or will just any 12 volt supply work? Cannot find a video on this problem. Your insight and expertise would be greatly appreciated!!!
@@SuburbanRanch the compressor I took off of it has the hole for a HP switch....it was an open hole, switch missing, compressor squeezing some. I just bought the truck 3 weeks ago for 3k. Interior well taken care of(mint). Just no a/c! Has me puzzled. I think I will just ground up switch and run a 12volt wire from LP line to it. Maybe I won't blow it up!🤔😃
@@SuburbanRanch been reading comments and at least 4 of us same dilemma. I think I will leave factory plug in it,and try it without HP switch....I ground down that flat spot( a little) on compressor bolts after removing...made it easier to reinstall. Great step by step vid on this!! Can't say that enough.A lot of Chevy obs fans out there! Over 1 million still on the road. Mine has original 193k on it. Again thank you!
well done young man , and thank you for answering the many questions that people had , I am 71 years young and still have my 91 GMC short box and still do my own work , thank you again .
Love how deliberate and clear your instructions are for each step. Most people probably have a very limited understanding of how an A/C system works. So without clear instruction it's easy to get confused and make mistakes. Thank you for doing this!
I was telling my wife this was the most through and well done ac video I have ever seen. Then you stopped at reading the gauges and went off only the weight. Well kudos upto that point.
Probably one of the best tutorial educational automotive videos I’ve watched yet. Answered so many questions in just this one video.
Dude, you are the BEST instructor ever.
No silly background music. No fluff. No opinions.
Just facts and sharing the skills so many people need for survival.
Thanks and praise.
Just a NOTE worthy note. When connecting the hoses to the ports High and Low, to open the system, the knobs need to be rotated clockwise which presses on the Schrader valve to OPEN the system and counterclockwise to close the system.
Great video! I was able to completely rebuild and retrofit the ac system in my 1990 silverado k1500 by the Grace of God and the how to knowledge shown here. Thank you! Keep it up!!
This video walk through really helped me with my 94 C1500. I ended up replacing everything except the evaporator behind the dash. Took me 6 hours in all, but saved me loads of money! I tried to remove the old orifice to see what it was like, and I couldn't even pull it out of the condenser. I cut the tube area in half and it was plugged up! No wonder the system failed! No flow! The only difference in the way I had to recharge mine and the recharge shown here is that the Freon canisters today have a resealable can, which in the video has the old style piercing valve. After I vacuumed the system and closing the quick connections at High and Low ports being careful not to allow any air back in the system. I had to recharge mine through the Low pressure port as if topping it off. Remember YOU MUST PURGE the short hose while connecting to the port to prevent air back in the system. The vacuum in the system took about 2 cans before I needed to start the truck. You must burnish the shaft/clutch when you start it up. If there is enough Freon in the system to engage the clutch during start up, the instructions indicate turning the AC on/off at least a dozen times to burnish the clutch shaft. Then I proceeded to put the remaining Freon in the system. So the back story to my situation here is the first compressor I bought from Auto Zone went bad! After about 3 days driving and a couple hour drive to camp for the weekend, the bearing was squealing like a banshee! I ended up changing it out and returned for warranty replacement. What a PIA! Fingers crossed! So far still cold! Thank you again for this video. Like many DIY'ers, we just need that reassurance sometimes that we are on the right track in doing the project.
what does burnish the clutch shaft mean ? thanks ahead of time
HotRodRico: Burnishing the clutch surface is a short process by engaging (on/off) the AC so the new clutch shaft surfaces are, if you will, mated, sanded or polished by the short on/ off intervals. This assures the surfaces have even contact across the clutch shaft for optimun performance. Hope this explaination helps.
I have a 92 K2500 with 6.2 Detriot that did not come with an AC system from the factodirection. Previous owner lived in Cananda and did not need AC. I live in North Florida and DEFINITELY need AC! I had no idea what all I would need to do to install one, but this definitely steers me in the right direction.
If you don’t have factory a/c, you will also need to add the wiring and under dash components. It would be a big job.
Thank you so much for doing it step by step. I was not going to change my condenser but your video just made me do it. Pulling vacuum as I'm typing. My 1988 gmc will have ac today. You rock 100% support your videos.
How was ot?
It was easy not hard at all @MOE13576
I Have watched a couple of your videos, and they are very helpful. I have a 1988 short bed 350, 700 r4 that I have owned since 1998. It is a good truck ,but I could have done a better job of keeping it up. With your help I am going to restore it .
One of the clearest and easy to understand video's i have seen...thank you...
Awesome video 👍 just finished redoing my entire A/C system with new parts thanks to your video.
Wow Great Job! I am ready to do my 1988 Chevy C1500, Well after my nap and getting the parts. I'm only 83.
Thanks. I've looked at a few videos. This is a compliment, I truly appreciate your shade tree knowledge! It was easy for me follow .
Best video I've seen ever doing a ac system..Thanks a million
BTW my 90 silverado k1500 originally had the 1st design system in it and the knowledge in this video helped me to convert to the 2nd design which is much easier to find parts for. Thanks again!!
I watched this about 10 times and used it as reference during the job. Thank you so much for the detailed steps and parts list. You’ve saved the obs community thousands of $$$. You need a qr code on your vid so i can venmo you some cash for a cold beer. Thanks!
Thank you. This is terrific. I had no idea whether or not I'd be even capable of doing this sort of job. I'm glad I looked it up. Now I'm quite sure that I can do it. And so.....maybe I'll get my A/C back.
I'm unlikely to pay a pro to do it. There are better things to spend that money on. But I just might do it myself now.
What a supreme video! Easiest video to follow ever!!!
Also for the benefit of your viewers, there were 2 slightly different setups in 1990. Unlike yours, mine had a slightly different condenser and a two piece liquid line which houses the orifice tube right at the joint in the two liquid lines. I highly recommend converting it to the condenser that houses the orifice tube and replace the liquid line with the version that you used. I had already installed the condenser only to discover that the orifice housing had been bulged inward, likely from corrosion buildup between the nut and line. I couldn't even get the old orifice out. I had to call GM to get a part number for that line and found that it was discontinued with no available aftermarket replacement. I'm sure that the parts house would have taken the condenser back in exchange for orificed version, but I had already reinstalled the grille. Fortunately, I was able to restore the end of that liquid line to its original shape using a large tapered punch and successfully flush the line and replace the orifice tube.
Would be nice to see the new system run! Use a thermometer to see how cold the air comes out.
Thank you sooo much for the thuro and to the point instructions. All how to s should be exactly like this . Thank you again
Nicely done. I've used this video a lot while rebuilding my entire HVAC system in my 1995 Chevy Silverado. I went way further. I removed my dash and rebuilt my air box. That would be a good video to have.
Thanks you , awesome video !!!!!!
Just changed out my 1989 GMC 1500 AC. Your video was a great help. Thank you.
Can you please tell me how expensive parts and work was? Or, guesstimate on the number of mechanic hours to complete? I'm considering replacing the entire system on my 89 g20 van. Thank you!
Great video I’m going to try to replace my ac system as soon as my parts come in
Excellent video!
Great explanation it was very clear and concise! I wish more explained things as well as you did.
You sir,have the best video out there on this!!! I'm currently doing a '93 sierra!
Thanks for a killer video! Can’t wait to have cold ac!
Good video, but wearing safety glasses when working on AC systems is always wise.
I think this little guy could fix anything!
Great Video. You are a savior! I’m putting together a 1993 Chevy k1500 Blazer and I was lost on where to go with replacing the AC system. Very clear and exact video! You’ve got a new subscriber.
Great video I have all of the same parts to go on my 1988 K1500. This is just what I needed, Thanks, PH
I replaced the evaporator core. It turns out that I had to remove the dash after all. It wasn't too bad. Anyhow, I vacuumed the system but waited to charge it until I got a retrofit low pressure switch. I figured that your 3 can weights should be really close so I used two full cans and my two partials from my previous attempts. I had already returned the manifold tool so I used the little screw on tool with a trigger and built in gauge. It turns out that the trigger was going bad so I had keep repeatedly squeezing it to get it all dispensed. I called my wife to pick up a new one and another can of r 134 as she was on her way home from work. I figured I still needed about two ounces but when I hooked up the next can with the new properly functioning dispenser and gauge, it showed 55 lbs of pressure so I didn't give it any more. It's definitely functioning well now, but I feel like it could be a tinge cooler. Can you go by the pressure? The 55 psi is in the yellow part of the gauge. Does that mean it's slightly overcharged?
55 psi on the low side with the compressor running is a bit high
So I should probably bleed a little off?
@18:40. I use a bench vise for any pressing of components like that, works great
Excellent advice and video! Thanks very much.
Definitely coming back to this video!
You were lucky. I'm replacing the entire dual HVAC system on a ,93 GMC Suburban and replacing all the lines for the rear ac heater unit. All the steel fittings on the aluminum lines were frozen solid and I twisted the ones on the condenser and the rest evaporator. I put so much torque on the evaporator nut it deformed it! I found a heavy duty hose kit that eliminates all the corroded metal lines underneath the truck. This is not an easy or clean job as old nasty coolant and refrigerant oil and green dye running down your arms as your cutting the old lines out from under the truck.
Great video. I am going to follow this as if it were my bible. Thanks again and keep up the good work.
Great video !
Thank u for ur guidance it was spot on except I don’t have the high pressure valve wire for the AC. Could u tell me what I could do.
Very professional. Really appreciate watching someone that knows what they're doing. Hav 1 question, I was planning on reusing original compresser and evaporater. Is there any problems with that. Have new dryer condenser,and new lines. It's a 1991 5.0 with 2cnd design. Thanks Rick
The only reason I was looking at this video was to find the trick to take the compressor rat without removing the clutch. That was cleverly bypassed, and the hard part of the job was already done clutch on this one we're working with is rusted and frozen I guess I'll cut the bolts.
good job on the video. One thing I noticed is the orifice tube was installed backwards. I believe the side with the smaller screen is supposed to be inserted first.
@Louis It is installed correctly, the same way as the original was.
Yeah I just did a R134a compressor on my 94 S10 blazer last week and man what a different I used a new AC Delco R134a compressor and it does make a difference on what compressor you use.don't use a cheap aftermarket compressor.
AWESOME STUFF! Thank you!!
Awesome job on the instructions! Thanks
Great instructional video sir. For the high pressure switch I'm wondering where the original lead comes from. Mine is completely missing
You may not have one, we have had a couple of people comment that their truck was not equipped with a high pressure switch. I would install the system the same way it was from the factory in your case.
@@SuburbanRanch ok thanks, I'll give it a whirl!
Mine too!
Same here. My '92 5.7L Silverado has no high-pressure switch on the compressor.
Great video! But u need some loom for them exposed wires and also will make it look cleaner😊
excellent job
Need a video on replacing both power steering lines, mine got crushed in recent crash…
Very well done.
Well…crap needing to replace my o -tube did not know I had to pull the grill.
Great job
Thanks
If I had to fix a leak would it be necessary to add oil to the system as well when recharging it? Amazing video, wish I'd had it a year ago lol.
You can add back in a little bit of oil
When switching cans like your second one turn your needle down all the way that way when you remove the can the hose gets no air then screw on second can with needle piercing can
Why not show operating pressures and vent temp?
Oh and open the garage door for ventilation
@tgt004 The second garage door was open, it was cold outside so no vent temps on this video
Thanks for posting this video, so when can I drop off my 454SS? 😆
Good stuff
Nice video. Do you have to flush if it's the same refrigerant as old
Enjoy your videos
Why does my 94 have the standard r134 fill connect I've been trying too get my ac going but my clutch won't engage I thought it was bc it was outta freon so I tried filling it it read empty and when I squeezed the trigger it went too over filled but I didn't hardly put any freon in lol
I feel like I gotta do the same thing with my 98 Sonoma possibly at least I think tho probably look at it some more see if I need to do more than I think. If that makes sense lol.
Ufff💨💯💪
😂 I can't get any of the high side R 12 to 134 adapters from the parts store to screw onto the R ,12 high side fitting. It's supposed to be a 3/8ths 24 th threads per in. But it's very difficult to screw on like it is the thread is metric or is course thread. I. Bought 4 kits and none of them had a high side fitting that would work. No problem with the low side
It's on a 93 Subarban
Might need to replace the line, sounds like it has a bad thread
Great DIY vid. Now subscribed, but with a question. Every step was quite clear and well explained but video time lapsed forward at the point where refrigerant cans had to be swapped during the fill process. So, my question is: Are the lines (valves) left open or are they closed as each new can of refrigerant is connected to be drawn into the system?
Close the valves between cans and purge the air before opening them back up.
Very helpful, currently working on my a/c. Same model truck. With a completely new and dry system. How many Oz of peg oil is needed. I can't seem to find a solid answer on this. Thanks.
8 oz I believe. Should be the same as what we did in the video.
O rings lube with mineral oil. pag oil attract moisture and then the aluminum will corrode.
I know this because it happened
Very thorough. Wondering if I missed something though. What is the process for changing refrigerant canisters? Is it a repeat of the process shown in the video, or is there another process?
Yes. Repeat the process we show for each can.
Muy buena la explicacion gracia
I did this on my 90 without the benefit of this video. I added all 8 ounces of oil directly to the compressor and am now having trouble getting the system to take any more than 6 ounces of r134. I also didn't realize the need to retrofit the low pressure switch on the dryer. Do I need to disassemble and redistribute the oil? Or can I just replace the low pressure switch? It seems like it's building too much pressure on the low side. (Boy I wish I'd found this video earlier. I've had such trouble finding information for this year and you seem to have it all- even the washers and extension for the compressor ports. I used two greens with a machine bushing and o ring on the one side to even them.)
I don’t think you need to disassemble at this point. Is the compressor running when you are trying to fill?
@@SuburbanRanch yes it kicks on for very brief spurts and then shuts off. I'm a little concerned about the evaporator core. When I flushed it out with compressed air the flow seemed rather restricted. I'm not sure if that's just a normal part of air travelling through those small passages. I tried charging with one of those trigger operated screw on tools and the gauge quickly went into the red. Also, I vacuumed the system but quickly disconnected at the ports while the vacuum was running because the seals in the hoses of the loaner manifold tool were shot and wouldn't hold the seal. (That's why I didn't just charge it through the manifold toll)
Were you connected to the low side when you were trying to charge?
Absolutely
I just researched your evaporator core flush sequence. In retrospect, mine definitely did not flow that freely, it just trickled out when forced by compressed air. I went ahead and order a new one. I'll let you know how it turns out. I found another video on how to replace it without removing the dash.
Hello
Thank you very much for the wonderful video
I still wanted to ask, I have a 1989 G20 with a rear air conditioning unit as well,
I saw that you put a total of 8oz of oil, do I need to put more oil in my system because there is also a rear unit
Thanks
Sorry, I’m not sure on that.
Doing r12 to 134a conversion you post to use 20% less 134a than what it called for on r12. Because 134a runs higher head pressure than r12
The conversion formula is as follows: (R12 Charge Specification x 0.9) - 0.25 lbs. = R134a Charge Level
Gee thanks guy the only question I had and you didn't answer it..... HOW DO I GET THE BOLS PAST THE AC
They have a flat spot on the head! I think we covered it briefly in the video.
@SuburbanRanch hi sir
Came acroos your videos this weekend. Very well done. Definitely
answered a few questions I had. What site do you use to get your parts?
Rockauto for most of the parts
When adding oil to the compressor os it necessary to rotate?
Subscribed
Ken Moore - again. I am trying to convert my 87 GMC R1500 pickup. The old or original R4 it did not have the high pressure switch as your 88 does. So the video shows you with a one wire that you are switching to the two wire required. So have searched the internet for days but nothing shown on where or how to wire the hi pressure cut out switch. So wondering if I can use a dual hi/lo switch on accumulator, but what do I do with the hi pressure switch in the R4, your video shows the low pressure connector going back on the compressor clutch switch. So my dilemna is what do I do with the hi pressure wiring. I know one goes to the ground but where is the other wire supposed to go?
Thanks, Enjoy your videos
@Ken Moore I’m not familiar with the 87. If the system did not originally have a high pressure switch, why bother adding one?
I'm in the same dilemma...'93 sierra.reading comments I see there are several that do not have a wire for HP switch. May I ask what you ended up doing with yours?
Thank you for the video. I was wondering what made you decide not to change the Evaporator Core?
I did not want to remove the dash
I’m terribly grateful for your video, I’m going to do the entire system on my 91 454 Silverado, I do plan to reuse my lines and just to assure myself, you’d recommend using the “pro flush” on all reused components? And blowing out residue with compressed air? Thank you sir
Yep!
@@SuburbanRanch it’s odd, I searched all the same part numbers you’ve used and everything stated it was compatible with my 91 k3500 7.4L tbi vehicle except the A/C hose, so I figured if my original hoses and lines aren’t damaged or have holes, just to flush them and use the green O rings and dab some pag oil on them and run it
@@SuburbanRanch do you know if the pressure switch is universal on the s header valve side? Seeing that we’re going from r12- r134a I look up the switch and it says not compatible with my vehicle. I’m thinking as long as the 2pin connector fits and the a schrader valve fits then it’s fine
@mikeymerrett I would buy the pressure valve recommended for your truck. Each year might have small differences.
@@SuburbanRanch the recommended valve is for r12, I found a suitable r134a valve that threads on and plugs in just fine
I really appreciate your videos. However, on my 1990 GMC c1500 (that I bought new) the accumulator tube GM part 15669969 has galvonic corroded itself to the evaporator and there seems to be a leak at the fitting that is impossible to remove. Thinking the o-ring is bad, but since I have searched every parts source and salvage lot with no help on locating one, I now have replaced everything like you did and flushed the evaporator but will not hold a vacuum. Any thoughts on where to find the A/C accumulator tube that was used on all GM 1988-1991 pickups?
Going to have to find one at a salvage yard, these parts just aren’t available anymore.
Was the yellow sealing washer a pain to get on
What color are the wires that are in the connector that goes on the front of the compressor? Trying to reinstall AC in my 91 after it was previously gutted. Unfortunately none of the wires were labeled.
I have a 93 Chevy obs step side , and I want to say all though I’m a little bit slower learner I feel like I can do mines with perfection just like you an do save thousands of unnecessary spent dollars, could you give me a list of things I should replace before starting this project so I don’t run into any problems I really want to replace any thing that could leak I had it checked once and the guy told and showed me exactly what was leaking but I can’t remember the name
Now the most important thing: How cold was the air out of the vents???
DIY A/C recharge!
th-cam.com/video/2H-XfMEvY_Q/w-d-xo.html
Suburban Ranch need help on my 92. I don't see any wiring for the high-pressure switch.
I have a '92 K2500 Silverado and I don't have a high-pressure switch on the back of my compressor. Only a clutch switch on the front.
Hey brother....I love watching your vidz......What is your first name...?? Im Steve...I have a 1988 K 1500 4x4 The Off Road Edition half ton with a beefed up suspension....Why does your engine compartment look like its brand new cuz mine looks old and grungy....lol.....My AC hasnt worked in about 6 years,,,, but thats about to change cuz youve inspired me that I can do this job myself Ive got all the parts except im just waiting on the lquid line and the condensor to come in....this truck is going to my nephew when I pass and I want it to blow ice cubes for him. Thanks and PEACE Brother
I can't seem to find any information about what "part" the line from the dryer leading into the fire wall at the beginning of the video is...
I plan on replacing everything you did in this video, but I couldn't help but be curious as to what it is.
Ok so my factory AC compressor hose fitting was flush and now the new one I have it one thin and one thick like yours where did you get the gaskets, only 2 thin gasket came with the compressor….
@James Allbright My gaskets came with the compressor.
Whats up thanks for the resourceful video, i was able to install the ac, but i had a question the next day after the install i turn on the ac and it leaked all the ac gas, im assuming i probably didn’t connect the ac pressure switch cables right. One has a letter A and another B, can you let me know which one is power and the other ground? Please and thanks in advance.
The bottom ac suction hose how does it connection it my connection is smooth with no threads
So I did this twice, the first time I didn’t add oil and the ac lines got cold and the second time I did add oil to all the same things you did and now non of the lines get cold and the ac doesn’t work, what can I do to fix it?
I feel like you left out a few things at the end like do you close low port valve between changes of cans and how much psi do we need total and is it possible to allow more air into system if we drain the can too much
Yes, good catch!
What if I don’t have the valve for the can all I have is the connection for the low side with a gauge for the Freon
Hey I bought everything you listed and I am going to do the complete change out like you did. Question: do you know what the size and length of the ac compressor bolts? My truck is missing these bolts. I bought it with the bypass pulley on it.
I don’t, but I would snag a set from a junkyard truck
I can't get my lines to seal at the back of the compressor new lines, and compressor, they sent 4 diff seals...can't get them to hold, lines seem stepped any suggestions? Edit just watched this very informative. Thank you brother...think I was missing the pilot, 🤞 let's hope it passes the damn leak test this time. Bout frustrated w this one. 😂
@j donez Glad we could help!
And am I the only one that noticed the garage door closed or is the door behind it open so the exhaust fumes don't get to ya lol
There is another garage door that is open!
I have a very important question sir. I have a '93 GMC Sierra 5.7 that I'm doing same thing to it and following your instructions exactly. Only I have one big problem with the high pressure switch. There is NO WIRE present!!! I've looked through the wiring harness. Still no wire. What can I do to wire my HP switch? Can I run a wire off the LP switch? Fuse box? Or will just any 12 volt supply work? Cannot find a video on this problem. Your insight and expertise would be greatly appreciated!!!
We have had a few comments that other year trucks did not have a high pressure switch. I would put it back the way that it was from the factory.
@@SuburbanRanch the compressor I took off of it has the hole for a HP switch....it was an open hole, switch missing, compressor squeezing some. I just bought the truck 3 weeks ago for 3k. Interior well taken care of(mint). Just no a/c! Has me puzzled. I think I will just ground up switch and run a 12volt wire from LP line to it. Maybe I won't blow it up!🤔😃
@jeffreyhudson3434 I don’t think the high pressure switch is needed, it’s just an over pressure switch
@@SuburbanRanch been reading comments and at least 4 of us same dilemma. I think I will leave factory plug in it,and try it without HP switch....I ground down that flat spot( a little) on compressor bolts after removing...made it easier to reinstall. Great step by step vid on this!! Can't say that enough.A lot of Chevy obs fans out there! Over 1 million still on the road. Mine has original 193k on it. Again thank you!