Best thing i ever seen of this Chinese man or Japanese who has made a replica of the mother ship from close encounters of the 3rd kind taking him five years to build so he said and it is huge on his table top in his house and fully illuminated with real working led lights just like this star trek and looks amazing
Star trek was my favourite uk number one tv series i would come home from school when I was a boy and fight to the death with my brother who gets to watch there favourites i have watched every episode ever made i think I loved it so much and wouldn't miss any of them
Nicely done model. I put my own jury-rigged lighting system into the AMT Enterprise model from "Star Trek: The Motion Picture" back in 1980 when the model first came out. I realized the same thing as this modeler, that some of the lighted parts of the ship had no visible origin point (like at the back of the nacelles). In my teenaged mind, the only way to replicate the lighting was to have it shine THROUGH the plastic. So I painted the interior black except for the lighted areas on the ship (upper and lower areas of the saucer section, the sides of the secondary hull, and the ends of the nacelles) which I left unpainted. At that time we only had grain of wheat bulbs (no LEDs) which I placed close to the unpainted areas. The result was a good simulation of light being projected onto the surface.
What I like about "all lights showing" on a medium-scale model is that it looks like it might look if one were to approach the ship in the depths of space. Looks very good. Thought-- I took a 3mm LED and sanded one side level with the wires-- but at an angle. I of course avoided the little reflector inside. You can lay the flat on the inside surface of the lighting aperture. (No, I don't a ship to try it out on yet. Yet.) It would shoot out -- maybe -- so that it would lay a fan of light out. I wonder if the model designers got their lighting to work with that ambitious plastic insert.
I tried every trick I know with LED's, SMD's etc. The only way you could do it would be to mount some tiny lighting on the surface in front of the raised lip on the opening and aim them slightly downward. Problem with that is they will look totally out of place when the lights are off. Can't simulate the look via raytheon lighting either because of the grey colored plastic. It looks green with a white LED behind it.
@@TrekWorks I am not a big believer in that Raytheon concept. Seems like way too many variables. Too bad about your experiments. Are there not "rectangular" LED packages? I mean components. Seems like they might start out life flat enough to fit and stand back from the opening. Then perhaps a nip and tuck. I guess I should shut up and get one of these models. Thanks fdor trying, Boyd!
Very good looking ship and build. It was mentioned this model is about the same size as the AMT model of the original. Boyd, have you thought of doing a series in building that model? I’d like to see your take on what is needed to make a good build.
Hi Boyd I love your videos I’m looking to do this kit too with the Aztec decals will you do that ? One more question you keep mentioning solarez ? What is it & can I buy it in the uk if you know Keep up the good work.
Hey Boyd did you spray Pearl White over the saucer domes and bridge window? It looks a little milkier than the white you layed down for light reflection in the saucers.
Clear scotch tape, I use it because you can shine the UV light through both sides to cure it. It's also smoother than masking tape so the Solarez doesn't have a texture on it when it's cured.
I wonder if you could bounce the light off some reflective aluminum tape on top, to cast out the light in front? Would be tricky to get the angles right though, and probably require some super bright LEDs...
It's hard to explain unless you are looking at the model. The lip on the front edge is too high for light to get past it and then cast onto the surface that curves away below it. No matter how bright I made it it just can't be aimed correctly without reshaping the surface which then will not look right either.
Great inspiration for me to try, thanks. BTW, I don't think you mentioned what the dark gray blobs over the SMD's are. Some kind of epoxy to hold them in place?
It's clear resin that you cure with a UV light. It only takes a few seconds. Then I painted over it to block the light from leaking out inside the model.
You mentioned in the video that you used a product called “Solar Res” for the 4 windows on the top of the saucer section. Could provide a link the you purchased it from?
any way to sand the inside area and thin out the thickness, place a bright light against the plastic "V" kinda simulate that it is lit? Know what I am talking about?
Did you Already paint the model before you installed the Clear Parts ? I also was thinking that Just Maybe the Tenacontrols Lighting Kit for the 1/1000 Scale TOS Enterprise Model might work for the 1/1000 Scale Discovery Enterprise Model both model are the same scale and maybe the Bossard Lighting Disc's on that board might fit inside the Discovery Enterprise Model's Bossard's.
They cheated on the Motion picture lights were fired down off the model to illuminate the insignia and ship codes. so really difficult to replicate i think, I did think radion but you already explained thats a no go
It's the hard finish doming resin. The bottle has a pink and purple label. I also bough the UV flashlight that's made for it there with the battery and charger.
If you mean fiber optic, yes I tried the side firing stuff and every other method I know. It's the molded in lip on the front edge that blocks the light from being able to be angled down on the spot where the number goes. Same thing for the 2 spots on the saucer bottom.
@@TrekWorks awesome thank you very much awesome work as always keep up the great work I enjoy your videos I've been learning a lot from you but how to make my models look better
Moving right along with this build! I like that you opened the top windows in the saucer!!
Thanks, yeah a couple easy mods I wanted to do as a tip of the hat to the original ship.
Best thing i ever seen of this Chinese man or Japanese who has made a replica of the mother ship from close encounters of the 3rd kind taking him five years to build so he said and it is huge on his table top in his house and fully illuminated with real working led lights just like this star trek and looks amazing
The lighting looks great coming together nicely 🖖😁
At least the neck is attached to the secondary hull.
Star trek was my favourite uk number one tv series i would come home from school when I was a boy and fight to the death with my brother who gets to watch there favourites i have watched every episode ever made i think I loved it so much and wouldn't miss any of them
Very nice indeed I can't wait to see her done she's going to look fantastic.
Nicely done model. I put my own jury-rigged lighting system into the AMT Enterprise model from "Star Trek: The Motion Picture" back in 1980 when the model first came out. I realized the same thing as this modeler, that some of the lighted parts of the ship had no visible origin point (like at the back of the nacelles). In my teenaged mind, the only way to replicate the lighting was to have it shine THROUGH the plastic. So I painted the interior black except for the lighted areas on the ship (upper and lower areas of the saucer section, the sides of the secondary hull, and the ends of the nacelles) which I left unpainted. At that time we only had grain of wheat bulbs (no LEDs) which I placed close to the unpainted areas. The result was a good simulation of light being projected onto the surface.
Well done!
Looks fantastic!
Great video Boyd. Too bad the lighting effects won't work out. Thanks for the tips.
Looks amazing 👍 ❤️
Very Nice! You do excellent work.
Thanks for all the tips especially on the saucer lighting!! Too bad really can't get the lighting because of the angles.
Yep, I tried every way I know how, even side firing fiber optic on the saucer top.
@@TrekWorks Would using the ends of fiber optic cables as mini spotlights lined up in a row work?
What I like about "all lights showing" on a medium-scale model is that it looks like it might look if one were to approach the ship in the depths of space. Looks very good.
Thought-- I took a 3mm LED and sanded one side level with the wires-- but at an angle. I of course avoided the little reflector inside. You can lay the flat on the inside surface of the lighting aperture. (No, I don't a ship to try it out on yet. Yet.) It would shoot out -- maybe -- so that it would lay a fan of light out. I wonder if the model designers got their lighting to work with that ambitious plastic insert.
I tried every trick I know with LED's, SMD's etc. The only way you could do it would be to mount some tiny lighting on the surface in front of the raised lip on the opening and aim them slightly downward. Problem with that is they will look totally out of place when the lights are off. Can't simulate the look via raytheon lighting either because of the grey colored plastic. It looks green with a white LED behind it.
@@TrekWorks I am not a big believer in that Raytheon concept. Seems like way too many variables. Too bad about your experiments. Are there not "rectangular" LED packages? I mean components. Seems like they might start out life flat enough to fit and stand back from the opening. Then perhaps a nip and tuck. I guess I should shut up and get one of these models. Thanks fdor trying, Boyd!
what an awesome build brother.....BIG trek fan here...did you get everything you need for this build from a shop?........
Very good looking ship and build. It was mentioned this model is about the same size as the AMT model of the original. Boyd, have you thought of doing a series in building that model? I’d like to see your take on what is needed to make a good build.
Hi Boyd I love your videos I’m looking to do this kit too with the Aztec decals will you do that ?
One more question you keep mentioning solarez ? What is it & can I buy it in the uk if you know
Keep up the good work.
Just a comment for the algorithm.
Did you hand paint the vertical window dividers across the slit on the upper saucer with the Folkart Pewter?
Hey Boyd did you spray Pearl White over the saucer domes and bridge window? It looks a little milkier than the white you layed down for light reflection in the saucers.
Hi Boyd....when you placed in solarez, what did you use on the opposite side to attain a flat surface that was flush to the hull?
Clear scotch tape, I use it because you can shine the UV light through both sides to cure it. It's also smoother than masking tape so the Solarez doesn't have a texture on it when it's cured.
@@TrekWorks thanks Boyd. I will have to get a hold of that stuff.
I wonder if you could bounce the light off some reflective aluminum tape on top, to cast out the light in front? Would be tricky to get the angles right though, and probably require some super bright LEDs...
It's hard to explain unless you are looking at the model. The lip on the front edge is too high for light to get past it and then cast onto the surface that curves away below it. No matter how bright I made it it just can't be aimed correctly without reshaping the surface which then will not look right either.
Why not use fiber optics? If you angle the end, it will direct the light.
Having trouble with how to snap the nacelles to the hull and also the saucer to the hull, help?!
what solar res are you using and light?
Hey Boyd great work.....off topic but doing 2001 monolith so what blue did you use on the Batwig? Thanks.
Hey Boyd, what is are the hull paint colors you used on this ship?
Where did you get the control board
Great inspiration for me to try, thanks. BTW, I don't think you mentioned what the dark gray blobs over the SMD's are. Some kind of epoxy to hold them in place?
It's clear resin that you cure with a UV light. It only takes a few seconds. Then I painted over it to block the light from leaking out inside the model.
I think your next ship should be CGI so you can make the impossible lighting ... possible. lol
You mentioned in the video that you used a product called “Solar Res” for the 4 windows on the top of the saucer section. Could provide a link the you purchased it from?
WWW.solarez.com I'm using their doming hard finish type. I also recommend getting the UV flashlight they have that goes with it.
@@TrekWorks Could you go over how you installed the navigation lights on the saucer section?
@@tfranz1966ify If you go back and watch my build videos of this model from a few months ago it's all there.
any way to sand the inside area and thin out the thickness, place a bright light against the plastic "V" kinda simulate that it is lit? Know what I am talking about?
It would work if the plastic wasn't molded in grey. When you hold a bright white LED up to it on the inside it looks green on the outside.
@@TrekWorks ahhh and I take it that it is not Federation Green... * bad joke...
Boyd is Ralph going to make a lighting kit for this kit.
I think he's looking into it.
Curious.. what would you charge to do one of these for someone?
Did you Already paint the model before you installed the Clear Parts ?
I also was thinking that Just Maybe the Tenacontrols Lighting Kit for the 1/1000 Scale TOS Enterprise Model might work for the 1/1000 Scale Discovery Enterprise Model both model are the same scale and maybe the Bossard Lighting Disc's on that board might fit inside the Discovery Enterprise Model's Bossard's.
They are the same scale, but not the same size. 1:1000 Disco Enterprise is closer to a 1:5xx or 1:600 scale TOS Enterprise.
@@nikolaiosander4874 I know the size difference between the two models it was just a thought 1/1000 Scale Model 1/1000 Light Kit.
Yes, but the scale is meaningless, if the size is different. They won't fit.
They cheated on the Motion picture lights were fired down off the model to illuminate the insignia and ship codes.
so really difficult to replicate i think, I did think radion but you already explained thats a no go
Boyd, what is this Solarrez stuff you're using? There's quite a few products on their website...
It's the hard finish doming resin. The bottle has a pink and purple label. I also bough the UV flashlight that's made for it there with the battery and charger.
@@TrekWorks Many thanks, Boyd!
Did you try white led wire for that logo illumination
If you mean fiber optic, yes I tried the side firing stuff and every other method I know. It's the molded in lip on the front edge that blocks the light from being able to be angled down on the spot where the number goes. Same thing for the 2 spots on the saucer bottom.
What's S.M.D. ??
Surface mounted diode or in simple terms a very tiny LED.
What do you use on the bridge Dome
The LED strip lights it as well as the bottom dome and all of the ports on the saucer sides.
@@TrekWorks awesome thank you very much awesome work as always keep up the great work I enjoy your videos I've been learning a lot from you but how to make my models look better