I used to try and figure out repair procedures using a Chilton or Haynes manual. I have a Haynes manual for my '90 Ranger, but it is now a supplement to the TH-cam university method of watching how someone actually does the job. I watch two or three videos, keep my tablet (and hand cleaner) nearby and if something doesn't make sense to me, one or two clicks later and I see someone like you going through the process. THANKS! for taking the time and effort to make the video.
Thanks for the video and your effort and you are a very good mechanic. Continue showing what you know somebody out there like me will appreciate god bless you and your family
Do you mean before or after the repair? My Ranger was making a soft dragging before the repair but only when I wasn’t using the brakes. When I did apply the brakes the sound became more noticeable and the squealer made contact with the rotor making a loud squealing noise. After the repair the brakes were quiet. I hope that helps.
@@mikeprevitera5839 before the repair sounds like pocket change clinging noise or chains dragging sounds. Same here with mines and it just got louder tho.
I have a 1993 taurus sedan and I could not get the caliper bolts out to remove it. It may have a hex nut instead of standard 14mm bolt. None of my hex tools would fit it. One was too large, the others too small. How come? What do I need?
I watched alot of videos on replacing pads on older rangers. You were the only one to thoroughly explain how to put the caliper pins in and also to show where the wear sensor went. Thank you
Yes the cupping is there but it’s very light. I didn’t turn or replace the rotors because there wasn’t any pulsing when applying the brakes. This repair was 30k+ miles ago and the brakes are still very smooth when braking. However, I’m not suggesting that to anyone not repair or replace damaged or worn out parts but that in this particular case turning the rotors was not necessary.
This is just a guess. Replace the rubber hose that runs from the metal lines on the frame to the metal lines on the rear axle. I think the hose is breaking down inside. Replacing the hose and bleeding the rear brake should flush out any rubber particles. It’s also the cheapest fix I can think of. If it’s not that you might have to replace the wheel cylinders. I hope that helps.
I bought the hoses from Advanced Auto. I didn’t have to tell them anything special, just front brake lines on a 94 ranger. Then I said the rubber ones from the frame to the calipers. I looked but I couldn’t find the part # in my records.
@@mikeprevitera5839 Great. I thought it would be a challenge finding them because the truck is so old. One caliper slipped out my hand and I prayed it didn't break that line. I am going to get a set just in case to have in stock. I will probably eventually replace them. Thanks
When bleeding brakes you start at the furthest wheel cylinder from the master cylinder. Have someone press the brakes while you open the bleed valve. HOLD the brakes until the valve is closed to keep air from entering the valve. Repeat several times until no more air is coming out on that side. Same process with the next closest cylinder until all are done. Make sure you NEVER let air in master cylinder or you will have to start all over again. I hope that helps.
To pads and had such a hard time because of the difference in outer lip on seal.After all the time and hesitation putting it back together realizing i also needed callipers it was quite refreshing to see a video that was explained well.Much appreciated by this exhausted old lady!!
...Mine, too, was way easier than I was prepared for. But installing the brand new ones......little bit more difficult....hahaha....@@mikeprevitera5839
Thanks for the video. First video I saw on hammering those clips out on my 93.
I used to try and figure out repair procedures using a Chilton or Haynes manual. I have a Haynes manual for my '90 Ranger, but it is now a supplement to the TH-cam university method of watching how someone actually does the job. I watch two or three videos, keep my tablet (and hand cleaner) nearby and if something doesn't make sense to me, one or two clicks later and I see someone like you going through the process. THANKS! for taking the time and effort to make the video.
You’re welcome!
Sorry about all the crazy “you’re welcome” replies. My phone didn’t show them posting. I’m glad the video helped you.
This was just about the only video covering caliper replacement for a 90's ford ranger that I could find. Thanks a ton!
I’m glad that the video helped.
Same story for me thanks ✌️
Forreal tho... Ive been looking for a min now, just wanted to make sure I was doing half ass right lol
@@mikeprevitera5839 need your help
Nice job.
This video was a great help with my first caliper replacement on the ranger. Thank you sir! Much appreciated 🙂
Glad to help.
Nice and succinct. Thank you!
Good video. Exactly what I was hoping to find.
Thanks for the video and your effort and you are a very good mechanic. Continue showing what you know somebody out there like me will appreciate god bless you and your family
dammit i forgot to grease my pins, no wonder my brakes are dragging.
Awesome thanks for posting the video helped out a lot
You’re welcome.
Has it been making a chain dragging noises when you drive at a slow speed? Cause mines is doing it.
Do you mean before or after the repair? My Ranger was making a soft dragging before the repair but only when I wasn’t using the brakes. When I did apply the brakes the sound became more noticeable and the squealer made contact with the rotor making a loud squealing noise.
After the repair the brakes were quiet. I hope that helps.
@@mikeprevitera5839 before the repair sounds like pocket change clinging noise or chains dragging sounds. Same here with mines and it just got louder tho.
I’m willing to guess that the pads and the noise reduction shim are rattling because the pads are worn down. New pads should fix the problem.
I have a 1993 taurus sedan and I could not get the caliper bolts out to remove it. It may have a hex nut instead of standard 14mm bolt. None of my hex tools would fit it. One was too large, the others too small. How come? What do I need?
Do you have standard or metric tools? You probably have the opposite of what you need that’s why the tools don’t fit exactly. Hope that helps.
I watched alot of videos on replacing pads on older rangers. You were the only one to thoroughly explain how to put the caliper pins in and also to show where the wear sensor went.
Thank you
That rotor needs to be turned or replaced, you can see the cupping...
Yes the cupping is there but it’s very light. I didn’t turn or replace the rotors because there wasn’t any pulsing when applying the brakes. This repair was 30k+ miles ago and the brakes are still very smooth when braking. However, I’m not suggesting that to anyone not repair or replace damaged or worn out parts but that in this particular case turning the rotors was not necessary.
My rear brakes are locking up on my 93 ranger , do you think is the calipers ?
This is just a guess. Replace the rubber hose that runs from the metal lines on the frame to the metal lines on the rear axle. I think the hose is breaking down inside. Replacing the hose and bleeding the rear brake should flush out any rubber particles. It’s also the cheapest fix I can think of.
If it’s not that you might have to replace the wheel cylinders. I hope that helps.
Probably drums on the rears.
Just a note. You want to install the anti rattle clip on the bottom of the inside brake pad (5:41) and not the outside pad.
Great demo. Where did you get the brake line hoses and do you remember the part #? Thanks...
I bought the hoses from Advanced Auto. I didn’t have to tell them anything special, just front brake lines on a 94 ranger. Then I said the rubber ones from the frame to the calipers. I looked but I couldn’t find the part # in my records.
@@mikeprevitera5839 Great. I thought it would be a challenge finding them because the truck is so old. One caliper slipped out my hand and I prayed it didn't break that line. I am going to get a set just in case to have in stock. I will probably eventually replace them. Thanks
Thank you very much for the information .🙏😇💯👍👌🍀🍀. Blessings my friend and many thanks and blessings to all. 🙏😇😇💯👍👍👍👌🍀🍀🙏🙏😇😇💯👍🍀
You are very welcome!
Question, is there a certain way that we should bleed the brakes, after installing the new caliper an pads?
When bleeding brakes you start at the furthest wheel cylinder from the master cylinder. Have someone press the brakes while you open the bleed valve. HOLD the brakes until the valve is closed to keep air from entering the valve. Repeat several times until no more air is coming out on that side. Same process with the next closest cylinder until all are done. Make sure you NEVER let air in master cylinder or you will have to start all over again. I hope that helps.
Dude?? Most epic!
As usual i did everything from rotors bearings and inner seal
To pads and had such a hard time because of the difference in outer lip on seal.After all the time and hesitation putting it back together realizing i also needed callipers it was quite refreshing to see a video that was explained well.Much appreciated by this exhausted old lady!!
You are very welcome!
Thank you
Your welcome
thanks
You’re welcome
The caliper pins do not really come out that easily.
Maybe not on your vehicle but they did on mine.
...Mine, too, was way easier than I was prepared for. But installing the brand new ones......little bit more difficult....hahaha....@@mikeprevitera5839
wear gloves ... brake fluid is nasty stuff... Use a C clamp to squeeze the piston in and watch that the reservoir doesn't overflow.
Great tips! You’re right I should have been wearing gloves.