I have found removing the substrate under water makes it easier. Using a full bucket like you have is great. It is possible to untangle almost all the old sphagnum without much damage if you go very slowly. Pretend you are a sloth.
VERY helpful, thanks so much for the advice, I usually found Nepenthes and some of the low-growing sundews to be the hardest carnivorous plants to hard repot!
@@WindowsillNepenthes Thank you! I actually do have one. For pruning a withered pitcher some owner will cut off the entire pitcher from the 'vine'? part, but some owner will only cut off the withered part and leave half of the pitcher since the part of the pitcher is still useful. What would you recommend the plant to focus on?
@@weirdboyrox usually I'll cut them when they are totally dead and dry (is not too visible). There is not a better way, but maybe overfeeding the half dead is a solution as the pitcher will totally die quickly and the plant will get lots ok nutriments?
You're brave for doing this with a clean white t-shirt :-) I usually go through a the "uprooting" process every winter with my non-tropical carnivorous plants before I put them in the fridge for dormancy. My tip would be to do what you did at 6:14 inside a bowl filled with (distilled) water. The substrate usually just "floats" off on its own much easier. Great video and very helpful for nepenthes newbies like myself!
That was the plan... but I hesitated during the recording... I'll do it this way next time! (Worst case scenario, that's gonna be a funny blooper video lol)
Learn so much from your videos and just started my journey with these plants and was just wondering about using zip ties around the plant do you find that they may rub and damage the stem rather than using soft plant ties
I repotted a brand new HUGE BloodyMary. An unplanned acquisition... I saved it from a garden !! all the leaves were rolled tightly around the pot !! >16€< I did it without having seen this video... Would I had, it would have saved me some big stress !!! The work was done at my best. So far the plant doesn't complain. ( I do 6-8 misting per day - no water after the first drenching - it's now 10 days) Under that bushy envelope, I couldn't see what my hands were doing ... I counted 22 pitchers, 16 alive - from leaf end to leaf end now it spans a little more than 80cm, two main stems, and maybe 5 big basals. A lot of cracked leaves. 16€ crazy how bad they treated that plant then underselling it I used: 1 part CP mix peat&perlite + 1 part orchid bark +2 part sphagnum + 1 part sphag over a 2cm LECA base - I used all I had available at home and it was not enough I moved it from a 12cm pot H10 to a 20 cm H21 😞a tall one - I had perlite but didn't think about using it - I hate perlite. So, I suppose next spring I'll have to do a repot softly changing the external part of the soil, and having time to find an appropriate container AlainCh2 on G mail
Hi Remy. I have a question nobody else seems to be asking, but I appreciate this is a fairly old video now. I have heard of some growers who either don't use sphagnum moss (only use it in small amounts if they do.) & make a mix out of mostly less organic materials like perlite, gravel, sand or even pure akadame, pumice or lava rock's. Especially if those last substances are used like the akadame, pumice or lava rock would that permanently negate the need to ever do a hard repot? Would the only concern be to ensure the plant is potted in a large enough pot to sustain it? Surely this would be as close to an ideal situation as is possible because the plant would never have its roots disturbed again - ever!
Yes Mark. The mineral-substrates are great for bigger plants but you have to be sure it doesn't leak any minerals (proper sand or gravel). This substrate will also retain way less water so it demands a higher humidity or a good watering management 😉
Remy, I noticed that you anchored that bamboo support stick in the pot prior to placing your Nepenthes in it. What is that white substance? Is is a plaster mixture? Anyway, that is a good idea to give support to the bamboo stake.
@@WindowsillNepenthes No, I am referring to what looks like a white cement like substance in the bottom of the pot which the bamboo appears to be stuck in. Maybe that is an optical illusion on my monitor though.
I got a N. Bicalcarata and N. Truncata. Do you know if they are slow growers? I hard repot them in coco husk, vermiculite, perlite, a bit of peat and a bit of sphagnum. So in the next 2 months I should expect some drying leaves?
Slow growers are usually highlanders so Bicalcarata and Truncata should be good (except if your Truncata is a highlander). And if you have been gentle with the roots the plants should not slow down too much. :)
Hard repotting is definitely nerve wracking lol trying to be as careful as possible and as thorough as possible too
Yeah... when I feel a snap, I tell to myself "This was a sphagnum fiber... not a root... everything will be fine..." 😆
@@WindowsillNepenthes ah yes!!! Lol I almost forgot about convincing ourselves everything is going to be ok 🤣
I have found removing the substrate under water makes it easier. Using a full bucket like you have is great.
It is possible to untangle almost all the old sphagnum without much damage if you go very slowly. Pretend you are a sloth.
VERY helpful, thanks so much for the advice, I usually found Nepenthes and some of the low-growing sundews to be the hardest carnivorous plants to hard repot!
Glad it was helpful!
You hard repot Drosera? I feel bad I never did...
Remy is a very good inspiration to grow nepenthes. Thank you Remy for getting me into growing them. :)
If ever you have a specific question, ask me. I may answer you in video so everyone benefit of it ;)
@@WindowsillNepenthes Thank you! I actually do have one. For pruning a withered pitcher some owner will cut off the entire pitcher from the 'vine'? part, but some owner will only cut off the withered part and leave half of the pitcher since the part of the pitcher is still useful. What would you recommend the plant to focus on?
@@weirdboyrox usually I'll cut them when they are totally dead and dry (is not too visible). There is not a better way, but maybe overfeeding the half dead is a solution as the pitcher will totally die quickly and the plant will get lots ok nutriments?
@@WindowsillNepenthes That make sense.
You're brave for doing this with a clean white t-shirt :-)
I usually go through a the "uprooting" process every winter with my non-tropical carnivorous plants before I put them in the fridge for dormancy. My tip would be to do what you did at 6:14 inside a bowl filled with (distilled) water. The substrate usually just "floats" off on its own much easier.
Great video and very helpful for nepenthes newbies like myself!
That was the plan... but I hesitated during the recording...
I'll do it this way next time! (Worst case scenario, that's gonna be a funny blooper video lol)
Very well explained. Thank you for the video.
Thanks!
Expectacular video! But how did this plant react? I am curious. Did it take it hashly and dried its pitchers? Or did it maintain some of the pitchers?
Learn so much from your videos and just started my journey with these plants and was just wondering about using zip ties around the plant do you find that they may rub and damage the stem rather than using soft plant ties
In fact that's what I use :) But I don't attach it too tight on the stake so it guides the plant without cutting the sap. ;)
Love the videos!!! Keep it coming, just subscribe!!!
Jurist keep it simple like you doing so far :) really help!
Thanks for that ;)
@@WindowsillNepenthes no problem, love the content. Applause 👏
Salut Rémi. Super chaine sur les nepenthes! Le format et le style sont tops!
Merci beaucoup!
I repotted a brand new HUGE BloodyMary. An unplanned acquisition... I saved it from a garden !! all the leaves were rolled tightly around the pot !! >16€<
I did it without having seen this video... Would I had, it would have saved me some big stress !!!
The work was done at my best. So far the plant doesn't complain.
( I do 6-8 misting per day - no water after the first drenching - it's now 10 days)
Under that bushy envelope, I couldn't see what my hands were doing ... I counted 22 pitchers, 16 alive - from leaf end to leaf end now it spans a little more than 80cm, two main stems, and maybe 5 big basals. A lot of cracked leaves. 16€ crazy how bad they treated that plant then underselling it
I used: 1 part CP mix peat&perlite + 1 part orchid bark +2 part sphagnum + 1 part sphag over a 2cm LECA base - I used all I had available at home and it was not enough
I moved it from a 12cm pot H10 to a 20 cm H21 😞a tall one - I had perlite but didn't think about using it - I hate perlite.
So, I suppose next spring I'll have to do a repot softly changing the external part of the soil, and having time to find an appropriate container
AlainCh2 on G mail
Yes next time, unpot and gently share the roots and what's fall will be replaced by regular substrate ;) But you plant should be fine.
Hi Remy. I have a question nobody else seems to be asking, but I appreciate this is a fairly old video now. I have heard of some growers who either don't use sphagnum moss (only use it in small amounts if they do.) & make a mix out of mostly less organic materials like perlite, gravel, sand or even pure akadame, pumice or lava rock's. Especially if those last substances are used like the akadame, pumice or lava rock would that permanently negate the need to ever do a hard repot? Would the only concern be to ensure the plant is potted in a large enough pot to sustain it? Surely this would be as close to an ideal situation as is possible because the plant would never have its roots disturbed again - ever!
Yes Mark. The mineral-substrates are great for bigger plants but you have to be sure it doesn't leak any minerals (proper sand or gravel). This substrate will also retain way less water so it demands a higher humidity or a good watering management 😉
Did you do the akadama repot? I’m growing in Leica after leaching a LOT,so that would be interesting to see!
I just finally got some Akadama 10 days ago and I'm testing it right now ;)
Thanks for the interesting video! 👍💚😀
I’m sooo jealous of your beautiful pitchers!
Give it a try and one day, you will also have great pitchers ;)
Love your advice! Where did you get that white pot ?
That's a yogurt pot recycled into a plant pot 😁
@@WindowsillNepenthes thank you
@@deso5626 more information here: th-cam.com/video/QtXXFYjW1WY/w-d-xo.html
Remy, I noticed that you anchored that bamboo support stick in the pot prior to placing your Nepenthes in it. What is that white substance? Is is a plaster mixture? Anyway, that is a good idea to give support to the bamboo stake.
The bamboo is attached to the pot using zip ties. You will have a better look in next week's video ;)
@@WindowsillNepenthes No, I am referring to what looks like a white cement like substance in the bottom of the pot which the bamboo appears to be stuck in. Maybe that is an optical illusion on my monitor though.
@@jfnuyen It is, the pot is white inside and there is nothing in it. ;)
I got a N. Bicalcarata and N. Truncata. Do you know if they are slow growers? I hard repot them in coco husk, vermiculite, perlite, a bit of peat and a bit of sphagnum. So in the next 2 months I should expect some drying leaves?
Slow growers are usually highlanders so Bicalcarata and Truncata should be good (except if your Truncata is a highlander).
And if you have been gentle with the roots the plants should not slow down too much. :)
how can i tell if my sphagnum is decomposing, what will it look like?
It should start breaking down into pieces. But as usually you see it while repotting, decomposing or not, you change it anyway. ;)