Changing fuel filter in a 2. 0 d Volvo V50 beware of main stealer dealer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ต.ค. 2024
- Soon after the fuel filter was changed by a Volvo main stealer dealer on a previous occasion the alternator failed, I believe they spilled fuel over the alternator when draining the filter, the alternator is mounted just below the filter draining point, ££££.
this is exactly the way i did mine but put a conector on the pump end with pipe and used the hoover to suck the fuel up from tank through filter but before reconecting the filter side conectors i sprayed carb cleaner on the opening to clean them before putting them back on it seamed to make a better seal and no air bubbles after, happy days
Thank you John. I had a frustrating airlock, thanks to you, I managed take care of it. Greetings from Lithuania!
Arnas Vilhelmas, Nice to know the video helped, thanks for letting me know.
Changed my filter today, the vacuum cleaner worked a treat. Thanks for the video 👍
primeraboy1, It's nice to know you found it useful, thanks for letting me know.
Hi John we had the same Problems after changing fule filter on a focus 2.0 liter diesel engine wouldn't start for love nor money two hours later a ford mechanic turned up at my brother's spray shop and said all you need to do is tow it and he was right only pulled it five foot and it started good video that engine is a focus engine .
Vaughan Newton, having the vehicle towed will spin the engine over quicker than using the starter motor especially if a low gear is selected, but this puts a lot of strain through the dual mass flywheel and can cause failure, (using the starter motor puts no strain at all through the dual mass flywheel).
Yes the same engine is used in the Ford Focus, but Peugeot make the engine, thanks for the comment.
Just wanted to say thanks for a great video, really informative and helped me out a lot!
PurpleProAudio, Nice to know you found the video useful, thanks for letting me know.
The vacuum cleaner was great. Just had to use it today.....cheers
Nice to know the video was helpful, thanks for the comment.
Süper Video Das hat mir sehr geholfen. Dankeschön 😊😊😊
thanks for watching
Hey. John’s back. Can’t wait to crack on with my engineering learning again.
Hi marcus mathews, I was still learning a bit myself with this, but I have the procedure sorted now.
Hi John, thanks for the video. I have a cmax tdci which has an identical engine. I have had constant air coming down the lines since i got the car 6 years ago. It had starting problems and i suspected the air was causing this.
I decided to change the fuel filter complete with new large gasket at the top. This did not stop the constant air coming through. After some research I found that some say its normal to have air in these lines and some say not. I ignored it but the problems with starting persisted. I put up with this for a while but then another problem started.
Sometimes intermittently while I was driving the car would refuse to rev and so far I have been left in a very dangerous situation. I got stuck at the entrance to a road once and twice blocking both lanes of the road as I pulled out of a turning. I changed and cleaned the map,maf and air temperature sensor. I took off the egr valve and the throttle body and cleaned them up. Fault still exists. No fault codes relating to it when connecting the obd.
I have this week installed a new filter body. While doing this I pulled a vacuum through the line from the tank to the filter and go no air bubbles so i assumed that the air must have been coming through the filter body or its connectors. I installed the new filter and body and pulled out what i could from the bleed valve on the filter and through the return pipe and the car started fine.
I still have a constant flow of air coming through after an hour or so of driving and ticking over. There is no loss of power and so far but since I have lots of bubbles coming through i'm worried the dangerous problem still exists. There appears to be a larger amount of bubbles when i first start the car. I guessing that when this large amount of bubbles get the injectors it causes this problem.
Do you have constant air in the fuel lines? Does anyone know if this is normal? I am now worried about using the car at all. Sorry for the long post. Thanks
Hi eazthitman, thanks for the comment.Yes I do get one or two bubbles passing through the clear fuel line but these have never caused a problem, if your car is cutting out due to an air lock in the fuel line then air must be getting pulled in from somewhere, first thing I would do is check condition of rubber O rings where fuel lines connect to filter housing also condition of air bleed seal on top of filter housing, replace if in doubt, also check if the top of the filter housing has a crack in it where someone has been careless with over tightening.
Note: if you suspect the engine has stopped due to an air lock then the air lock will be visible in the right hand end of the clear fuel line just before the line connects to high pressure pump.
@@johnbower Hi John, thanks for reply. Changing the filter and filter housing has covered most of those things. I also covered the right hand filter connector in a high quality sealer as a temporary test but made no difference. I did notice that the old air filter gasket had quite a few cracks on part of it. There is no air lock as such, the engine does not cut out. It just suddenly stops revving for a few mins.
Any attempt to lift the clutch to slowly move at tick over and it cuts off immediately.
I am not sure at this point if I have fixed the problem or not since changing the filter will create air in the system. I took for a spin yesterday and the problem did occur soon after staring but after a bit of driving I have found that the bubbles seem to have reduced quite a lot so I will see over the next few days. Will update if fixed or not.
Thank you wery helpful from sweden
Glad it helped! thanks for the comment
Don't worry about the air lock. Don't waste your time thinking that as there is nothing you can do to stop it. Once the lines are out air is intruduced immediately. No tricks will stop that.
A tool free way of doing this is to put a 6mm hose in the bleeding line and suck on it as hard as you can. No pun intended. Untill you see the fuel move it's way out up from the lines. Just a little will be enough as all you need is to start the engine. The trick is, once the engine starts rev it high over 3000 rpm for about 10 seconds. The air lock will dissaper very quickly and all you'll need to do is keep revving modoretly for another 2 minutes and on offing the engine a few times as this will get rid of the last few bubbles. Enjoy your ride untill next time.
Bitter Melon, The only fuel line that needs to be free of air to start the engine is the one between the fuel filter and the high pressure fuel pump, this can be accomplished if a little "trick" is used to disconnect the fuel lines in the correct sequence (as shown in the video), I did suck as much air as possible out of the bleed nipple (as shown in the video), but as the bleed nipple is not at the highest point an air pocket is left in the top of the filter housing (as shown in the video), the engine did start but as soon as that air pocket reached the high pressure fuel pump the engine stopped (as shown in the video), A vacuum had to be applied to the fuel return line to remove the air pocket from the high pressure fuel pump (as shown in the video). There are some diesel engine vehicles that don't have a problem with air pockets in fuel lines, it all depends on the lay out of the fuel system. Thanks for the comment.
John Bower I have the same engine as you do on my ford focus. My method is how I replace the filter all the time. Not saying you're wrong. I think people will benefit your way if they wanted to do it the right way. Mine is the backyard version I guess. After starting, if you immediately rev the engine high I never had my engine cut out because of air lock, as the fuel moves very quickly and revving high it's unlikely to stall out, and since it takes a few seconds I found that to be the easy way. It literally takes me 5 minutes to replace the filter from start to finish. I guess I would need to do a video the next time I change mine. I will tag you if I do. Btw, great job and thanks for the upload 🤙
@@sourwords1808 thanks for the comment.
Thanks for sharing really helped
No problem 👍
A good modification is to fit the primer bulb as fitted to the Peugeot 407. Exactly same setup. Why volvo don't use it I'll never know. I fitted one to mine. Also non return valve is fitted inside the primer bulb. 15 minute job now.
I agree with your suggestion, thanks for the comment
Did mine the other day. Disconnect feed from tank and feed to fuel pump and plug them together.
thanks for watching
I have the same car,and i have strange issues with it.Once a 2 weeks roughly,i can't start the car at all,i must bleed the air of the system,then again 1-2-3 weeks no problem...and i don't know from where to start,seems that air is entering into the system but from where ?!Any ideas...?
This car relies on the the high pressure injector pump mounted on the engine to draw fuel up from the fuel tank, this means the fuel line from the high pressure pump back to the fuel tank is under vacuum, this is where the air is entering the line, most likely places are the connections around the fuel filter housing, either faulty rubber O rings on the fuel line connections or a faulty rubber seal on the end of the vent which is screwed into the top of the filter housing.
@@johnbowerThanks,i will check tomorrow everything,i hope that i can find something !
You mentioned about it getting airlocked how do you sort this problem
Patrick Joseph Ward, As shown in the video I pulled the airlock out of the system by applying a vacuum to the fuel return line, apparently there are proper tools for doing this, I have not been able to find a good one of these and is the reason I tried using a vacuum cleaner, it is not an ideal tool but it did work.
hi i have lots of air bubbles in the clear fuel line, could it be the fuel filter or the O rings. is there anyway to test before starting work. any advice would be of help. thankyou.
himfromdarwin, If you have just changed the filter it is not uncommon to get bubbles in this clear line for a short time. If the filter has not been changed for a long time it may be partially blocked causing excessive negative pressure in this clear line, if there is excessive negative pressure in this line the most likely place for air to get sucked in will be the joint where this line joins the fuel filter, as all other joints and seals are before the filter where there should not be excessive negative pressure, unless there is a restriction in the filter inside the fuel tank, but this is unlikely unless you have had some very dirty fuel.
If the fuel filter in the engine bay has not been changed for some time this is most likely the cause of the problem.
Been hand pumping the last hour in below zero temps. Why they make it this difficult compared to every other car I've ever owned to bleed the diesel system I reallly really don't know.
Glen Graham, I understand your frustration, I have tried using a hand pump and found they don't pump air but do pump fuel, that is why I resorted to using the vacuum cleaner.
What size is the socket used for the top of the filter housing please
benjamin Cargo, ( 27mm socket )
@@johnbower thank you sorted it
i have changed my alternator and had to remove all the filter now it wont start how do you bleed it
acer arborists, Yes if you disconnected the fuel lines from the filter you will definitely have air in the system. If you look at my video carefully I do show how to bleed the system. Note: when removing the fuel lines, where you careful not to get the slightest bit of dirt in the fuel line between the filter and the engine driven high pressure pump, because dirt in this line is after the filter so will not get caught by the filter, good luck.
7:52 Some people fill the filter body with neat forte diesel cleaner
Never do that. The modern CR diesels only pressurise the amount of diesel needed by regulating the intake... the old ones used to dump the excess fuel back into the return hence you'll end up with a damaged pump eventually as it'll pressurise pure diesel cleaner only.
Buy a £10 electric pump off eBay to save all the faffing about! Simples! It connects to the battery with crocodile clips and comes with hoses to carry out this sort of task.
Paul McDonald, There are a few different things you can purchase to fix this problem, but if you don't have time for the proper tool to arrive, and are living out in the country needing to get the car on the road, you have to improvise with what you have, this is what I have shown in the video.
Which pump did you get? I want to do this.
This car does not have an electric fuel pump in the tank.
20 m de video para cambiar un puto filtro de gasoil
these engines have no lift pump the green return plug is where you should draw a vacume to purge the pump and supply line of air, a sealey or comparable oil drain vacume hand pump works perfect pump the canaster up leave 5 minutes then crank car once it fire maintain 2000rpm for 20 seconds then shut off car and reconnect the fuel tank return(green) job done, you shouldnt try shart the car before purging to help maintain the mechanical fuel pump.
Suck air out by the returnline, you will blead the whole system in one go
Patrick Erb, thanks for the comment.
@@johnbower Thank you for the video, just done my filter and the video helped a lot :) I have used a very large seringe (a very big one) to suck the air out of the returnline towards the pump and it worked like a charm
This is hilarious! Each step of the way your hacks cancel out the previous hack... am I missing something, why don't you... 1. Remove all the filter and then drain rather than splitting it and faffing about with an 'ickle bit? 2. Disconnect return and crank until air is out and the car starts, that's how most mechanics do it? You wouldn't need scaffolding, vacuum cleaner or the curvature of the earth to complete the job? This is definitely not the way to do it!😂😂😂
James Macdonald,, If you try to remove air from this model of car in the way you are suggesting you will definitely need more than the curvature of the earth to help you.
@@johnbower It's the standard way to bleed after replacing the filter, either before or after the pump, that's how a trained mechanic would do it... pissing in the wind with the vacuum cleaner hack until you cranked the engine.. nuf said.
@@jamesmacdonald3090 I have come across a few of these so called trained mechanics ( or technicians as they are called today) and some of these taking short cuts cause hundreds of pounds worth of other damage to cars (at the customers expense) while they are rushing to do the work. I am fully aware there are other ways, and the right equipment, for doing this type of work, but when you are living out in the country without a proper tool for the job, you have to improvise with what you have at hand, this is what I have shown in the video, if you care to look at most comments other people have made, you will see how this video has helped them out. but there is always someone who thinks they know better and can not be helped.
@@johnbower Whatever, you must be right? A little knowledge etc..
Thanks both, the video helped a lot, to bleed the system taking off the return valve, sticking it in a bottle and just cranking the engine until it started then ticking for a few seconds got rid of the air (then reconnecting quick)
Hy, removing the air from the system is easier with the 50ml syringe not with the vacuum cleaner.
Hi mariusvfp mihai, Yes lots of vacuum syringes are available for this purpose, finding one that works is the problem, I have looked at these and bought one in the past, it was as much use as a chocolate teapot, the internal seal leaked and would not pull a vacuum, that is why I resorted to use that vacuum cleaner, I would be thankful if you could lead me in the right direction to finding one that works, thanks for the comment.
@@johnbower i always use a manual pump to try and suck some fuel into the filter housing...then...just crank the engine for 10 times...for 5 seconds per try...when it finally starts.,...revv it and keep it high on revs...the fuel pump in the tank will do the job for you..dont waste time on priming the system...its useless....use the fuel pump in the tank as you crank the engine..
Hi. Used your video as a guide for changing filters, step by step... You're messing about all the other steps changing filter, EXEPT THE MOST IMPORTANT ONE, THAT YOU NEED A SPECIAL WRENCH TO OPEN IT😡 It took me several hours to figure out that you skipped this!
No special tool needed, top section of filter body unscrews as shown in video, standard 27mm socket is all that is needed to unscrew it,
Alternator doesn't break down because of fuel leak...
Hi dot, apparently the diesel fuel got inside the alternator and left an oil slick on the contact areas of the brushes resulting in poor electrical contact.
@@johnbower John's right. It was even mentioned about cover the alternator in VOLVO service tool VIDA
you dont really know what you are talking about...fuel can destroy alternator...also the belt can slip...so ...your advice is rubbish!