Adam - I know this sounds crazy, but to easily assess if a shaft that length is "straight and true", find a good pool table where that has been leveled properly and on which the balls roll straight and true. Lay the shaft on the pool table felt surface and roll it, using a flashlight (torch) to backlight it and look for light leakage under the run of the shaft and the ends as you roll it over. Do that in a couple alignments on the table. If a ball on a pool table rolls properly, it is not only level, it is truly flat. Besides, where there is a pool table, there is usually beer.
That’s pretty funny, but it should work. The millwright’s trick is a 12 or 18 inch ruler out of a combination square. Lay the shaft on a fairly flat table (even a crooked pool table), put a block or stack of washers/coins under both ends of the rule (half diameter), and a light in the center space. Roll the shaft slowly against the rule to push it sideways while watching for light. Move the shaft half the length of the rule and do it again. If you find a gap, you can center it on the rule and crack it with a feeler gauge. Takes longer to explain than to do. That felt on the table may hide a .010 gap, but an .003 should be more than obvious alongside a rule.
That channel “Beau & Brandy” just did the same thing you’re doing and he built something out of 2’x4’ lumber and a jack I think, but it worked well for putting it back in. He even built another box and glassed it. Good Luck! She looked so “Majestic” being pulled out!!
Glad you explained why you were hesitant to anchor in the enclosed Bay as it seems to be fairly calm there. S/V Talisman, Oyster 485 spent a good deal of time anchored there this Winter. Besides compression post, new prop, driveshaft and anti-fouling paint, what other projects now that mast is off? New stays perhaps?
Stainless steel oxidizes when there's an absence of oxygen (yes, that's counter intuitive but it's still true). Which is most likely the reason why they used mild steel on the foot so they could glass it in depriving it of oxygen.
If it's 316 marine stainless it should have moly in it to slow down crevice corrosion, but it won't stop it completely. Mild steel is a lousy substitute, should really be bronze in that application, though fixing it to the stainless could be a challenge.
The base of my 86 is mild steel, like what the fuel tanks are made of. cut it off and weld a 304 plate on it. While you have the mast off enlarge or add more drains and reseal the mast step with butyl tape. On my boat the compresion post only gets water in if the drain holes in the step get clogged. Sealing up the wires in the pipe just before stepping the mast might have stopped the leak too. I used 3M strip caulk (any auto supply store will have it ) but butyl tape would also work. the wear on your prop is the one down side. they chew up bearings annually. The amount of corrosion on the prop shaft is impressive. Glad you are tossing it. Make sure to lap in the old prop to the new shaft but you been there, done that. Good the BST studs on the shaft log all came out. You did it right last time and it paid off. While Milly won't care when using a crane without spreader bars is a good way to mess up your boat. The slings will want to squeeze inwards. I've seen some boats damaged when picked up without spreaders. If the slings are on bulkheads not too much worry but try lifting a power boat and watch what happens to the gunwales. Keep up the good work! Nicely done on all of it.
Wow, I learned something about the Tayana 42. I thought it was a keel stepped mast and it's not ? It seems a blue water sailboat like that, with a skeg hung rudder would have a keel stepped mast. Now I question my other assumption; I thought a keel stepped mast was more stable, in comparison, to a deck stepped mast. I have learned alot from your videos and, I believe if I was going to purchase an older sailboat, I could, from your videos, put together a very complete preventive maintenance program and schedule for the entire boat systems. Thank you for the knowledge Adam !
Feathering props are more than a little over-sold. I looked at one recently that gave most horrendous clunk when the shaft first spun in gear. A big fixed-blade 2-blade prop is difficult to beat.
So glad you are back (again). Had wondered where you had got to… I now can see - up on the hard!! Good luck with the boat jobs, but remember to enjoy yourselves too 😎
.... Whew ... had me worried when you were knocking out the stantion post that all of a sudden it was going fall on live action photographer Khiara .. she couldn't be standing judging by the camera angle .. Yay! of course the two of you had it all in hand .... laughed at your reactions when the prop shaft more or less just slid out .. thx for the share and the peek into your life .. as always .. never stop dreaming, just dream bigger .. have fun be safe, save our oceans ....
You might consider replacing the compression post or at least lengthening it a bit. A compression structure/post on a boat of this size should never contain any organic material, i.e. wood of any type or balsa coring anywhere in the column. Install the compression post on the outside of the boat, from the cabin top down to the original compression post step. If you make the post a small amount longer and then through bolt it to the cabin top this will insure that only the post carries the compression load of the mast. This will require that the post base be a separate piece. The original mast step can be attached to the plate attached to the top of the compression post. Pay particular attention to slight variations between the perfectly vertical compression post and any angle to it, made by the cabin top and post base. I used this method on three Westsail 43s that I built and my own Cape Dory 28 in which I did a solo circumnavigation. The 43 is similar to your boat but a bit heavier with a bit more sail area. The compression post was made from 3" Schd 40 galvanized steel pipe with a 6" long piece of 304SS pipe welded to the bottom to help eliminate corrosion in the bilge. The pipe is about 3 1/2" O.D. The plate in the bilge had a slug of SS welded to it just small enough to fit inside the pipe. This keys the pipe to the post so that it cannot move, yet the entire thing can be removed should the need ever arrive. The lower end of the compression post should have a notch in it to let water drain from the inside of the pipe. Not sure if your post base is only on the hull or also on the hull above the ballast. In any case it can be lag bolted down and epoxied to hold it in place. To insure a flat area for the base make a low dam(s) and fill the space with a mixture of slow setting epoxy and sterilized sand(if you can find any). Sterilized sand is cleaned, washed, dried and contains no organic material, it is used in the US for sand boxes made for kids. This will also elevate the base plate slightly so it does not sit in bilge water that may accumulate in the area. Finish the compression post, where it shows, in any way you desire.
easy way to check for bend in a shaft is rest the ends in some kinde of V. i use wooden v blocks. then set up some thing in the midle for referance. can be aything stable that can come close to the shaft. turn the shaft slow and look for deviation. simple and cost nothing
compression braces on ballads are the same, before 74-75 they used a mild steel encased in polyester 1/2 in and 1/2 out - after 75 they went to a galvanised steel compression brace, just that small change meant the difference between having to replace the brace or if its still going strong 50 years later. It also helps to keep them dry, if the boat sits with water in it (over winter for instance) then it will be destroyed pretty fast. Just make sure that the foot of the compression post can drain properly... another great episode, pat on the head for Adam and kisses for Kiara
You are going to need a tool to get the new shaft in. The pressure you felt pulling it out will be very difficult to overcome in reverse. When you pulled it out you were at the end of the "arm". Going in the same amount of FT lbs will need to be applied very close to the hull. To test this, you may want to check by re-installing to the old shaft to see if it going to be a problem. Love the content and keep the adventure going.
Your compression post looked fine, it may not look pretty at the bottom but it's still strong. But having water come down through inside the mast is a bit concerning. As far as the prop shaft goes, I saw some pitting on it, so make sure it's not where the stuffing box / seals are or you'll have a leaky shaft. And as far as straightness goes it's best to bring it to a machinist and have them throw a dial indicator on it.
By all means you did the right thing on the compression post. I would venture to say building a base pad out of a noncorrosive and hardened material would be the plan and measurement of any new height of a new base is critical or the post will not fit snug, you do not want it to bow out the hull bottom if you have to jam the post back in to place. Thanks John
You can salvage that mast post. Perhaps cut off the corroded plate, and have a new stainless one (perhaps a little thicker) welded to the new cut surface. A decent drainage hole (or two) would help also. Stagnant seawater will attack stainless. When the environment is oxygen-depleted, it is the chlorides in the seawater that do the damage. Chlorides are rendered inert (or near-so) in an oxygenated environment. It is stagnant seawater, oxygen-depleted, and chloride-rich that is the real enemy.
I may not remember correctly but I think there are several types of Stainless Steel alloys and one is supposed to be best for marine use. Since you are at a Marine establishment, I hope they will know this.
Lazy French! Just find a fairly flat surface and roll the shaft over it is bent you should be able to see it. Glad to see your finally getting the shaft fixed after all the trouble it has given you over the years
Checking a shaft for straightness is very easy. You just need two straight edges (don't get carried away with precision straight, 2 pieces of angle iron will work fine). Lay them out parallel to each other and level spaced almost as far apart as the shaft is long. Roll the shaft on the edges. You will see right away if it isn't straight. If you want a measurement as to how bent a cheap dial indicator and a pair of V-blocks can be surprisingly accurate - more than enough for what you are doing.
I'm a marine bodger not an engineer. I'm fascinated to hear what you guys conclude is the correct answer to the corrosion problem at the base of the Compression post - who knew it was so complex?
To measure up to 1 or 2 mm of deviation in the shaft I'd take a string of rope. Run the string from one and to the other of the shaft and see in in certain areas the string separates from the shaft. I'd do at least two measurement separated by 45°. It's free and it's more precise then eye ball it.
What about building an epoxy shim to land the bottom of the compression post on that you can slide in under the post and then glass in so that you don't have to jack the roof to make room for the hypotenuse length when angling it in? You could even epoxy nuts into the shim to bolt the post to if you felt the need. Sorry, came to this video a month too late.
Find a flat surface lay the shaft on it and roll it with your hand like you would do with a snooker or pool cue, you'll soon see if its not straight or like a banana lol
Adam can you do me a favor and let me know how you are securing the aft solar panels to the pushpit and the stanchion - it looks like an adjustable rod between them?
You'll be in good hands at TOBY. Great folks. Buy them a few beers and get them to tell the story of when Irma went through. Beer time is 1600. Please ask after Colin. About the nicest guy you will meet there. Brilliant with fiberglass, rigging, etc. He'll definitely steer you right. Please pass along best regards to everyone there, especially Keith from the "Davids" of Miss Pegotty of Leamington"
Sorry about your problems. I have a question if you don't mind? Is it okay to remove the post without first placing support beams? Just watched Beau & Brandy and they also removed their compression post however they placed support beams to take the weight of the mast. Our boat is also deck stepped.
I think they put the shaft in first and could be have to take out the shaft with the engine. I wonder if could contact the makers of the boat. Yacht. I was wrong then.
hurray your back Interesting turn of events that matches "Good Bad and Ugly" same issue. So to see a rather "sketchy" solution to your same issue, You might visit their channel. Spoiler they do it in the water with the mast in place. Will mention you guys on their comment if I can find them again
You can use 4 wine glasses and some kind of stick as indicator. make "wheels" of the wine class legs (the steel slides on them almost like rollers) per each end. Then you can use a stick to indicate various places. Use materials with known thickness to test deviation (paper, aluminum foil, saran wrap..)
Bah! You don't need a lathe to check straight. Cut two v-notches in two sawhorses and clamp a flashlight above that close to the shaft at night. You'll see it if bent. 15:38 no eye protection. Ads...I love ya...but they are the only organs we haven't sorted out how to replace.
Guy’s you are obviously doing all this cruising malarkey wrong. After watching many other sailing channels you should be spending 95% of your time swimming, eating out, drinking and making easy windward passages… armature’s! 😘
You need to watch that other channel, Beau and Brandy? To see how you SHOULD (not) replace a compression post - CongoRats on at least stepping the mast! Great channel, keep up the hard work and great videography.
John 3:16 King James Version 16 For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life.
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Great to see you back, you’ve been MISSED…!!
But at least you have found another place in Paradise to drown yourselves in endless Boat projects 😎👍✅
Adam - I know this sounds crazy, but to easily assess if a shaft that length is "straight and true", find a good pool table where that has been leveled properly and on which the balls roll straight and true. Lay the shaft on the pool table felt surface and roll it, using a flashlight (torch) to backlight it and look for light leakage under the run of the shaft and the ends as you roll it over. Do that in a couple alignments on the table. If a ball on a pool table rolls properly, it is not only level, it is truly flat. Besides, where there is a pool table, there is usually beer.
That’s pretty funny, but it should work. The millwright’s trick is a 12 or 18 inch ruler out of a combination square. Lay the shaft on a fairly flat table (even a crooked pool table), put a block or stack of washers/coins under both ends of the rule (half diameter), and a light in the center space. Roll the shaft slowly against the rule to push it sideways while watching for light. Move the shaft half the length of the rule and do it again. If you find a gap, you can center it on the rule and crack it with a feeler gauge.
Takes longer to explain than to do. That felt on the table may hide a .010 gap, but an .003 should be more than obvious alongside a rule.
You never get bored on a yacht ♥️♥️🥰🥰
Ahh, normal service has resumed. Great to see you both again.
The curve in wiring to allow water to drip away is called a "drip loop"
Jeez, finally! I didn't know how addicted to this channel I was until the last week!
My favourite sailing couple is back! Another entertaining video, thank you!
Great about the prop shaft. Sometimes we over think how difficult something will be.
Fortunately, good manufacturers think about future service. Unless it’s a
motorized toy like a Bombardier UTV.
Yay :D You are back! I went ahead and bought my first boat - thanks for all the inspiration! (Steel rebuild/replica of a Pearson Vanguard 33)
Boat maintenance in exotic locations!!!!! Hang in there!
That channel “Beau & Brandy” just did the same thing you’re doing and he built something out of 2’x4’ lumber and a jack I think, but it worked well for putting it back in. He even built another box and glassed it. Good Luck! She looked so “Majestic” being pulled out!!
oh the water from below and then there's the water from topside we don't always see , little but oh so damaging. eek .
Angus
That’ll be a nice upgrade and it’s a peace of mind thing........time and cash well spent I’d say. Love that boat
Good to have you back. I Love the boatwork videos.
its always something on a boat, just keep going
Glad you explained why you were hesitant to anchor in the enclosed Bay as it seems to be fairly calm there. S/V Talisman, Oyster 485 spent a good deal of time anchored there this Winter. Besides compression post, new prop, driveshaft and anti-fouling paint, what other projects now that mast is off? New stays perhaps?
Lay the shaft across two parallel rails/timbers, etc and roll it along the rails. Even a very slight bend will be obvious.
Quite the cliff-hanger... I'm dying to see what happens next!
Wow . . . good to see you again. Looks like there is plenty of work to film. I hope it all goes surprisingly well.
What a beautiful intelligent woman .
Stainless steel oxidizes when there's an absence of oxygen (yes, that's counter intuitive but it's still true). Which is most likely the reason why they used mild steel on the foot so they could glass it in depriving it of oxygen.
If it's 316 marine stainless it should have moly in it to slow down crevice corrosion, but it won't stop it completely. Mild steel is a lousy substitute, should really be bronze in that application, though fixing it to the stainless could be a challenge.
Thats the dumbest most ignorant thing I have ever read.
You spragged it past !!!!🤣
Ha! A salon strip club called "Milly's" perchance? ;-) Love seeing you two back.
Glad to see you back. Noticed the marked improvement in the editing and quality. Nice job!
The base of my 86 is mild steel, like what the fuel tanks are made of. cut it off and weld a 304 plate on it. While you have the mast off enlarge or add more drains and reseal the mast step with butyl tape. On my boat the compresion post only gets water in if the drain holes in the step get clogged. Sealing up the wires in the pipe just before stepping the mast might have stopped the leak too. I used 3M strip caulk (any auto supply store will have it ) but butyl tape would also work.
the wear on your prop is the one down side. they chew up bearings annually. The amount of corrosion on the prop shaft is impressive. Glad you are tossing it. Make sure to lap in the old prop to the new shaft but you been there, done that. Good the BST studs on the shaft log all came out. You did it right last time and it paid off.
While Milly won't care when using a crane without spreader bars is a good way to mess up your boat. The slings will want to squeeze inwards. I've seen some boats damaged when picked up without spreaders. If the slings are on bulkheads not too much worry but try lifting a power boat and watch what happens to the gunwales.
Keep up the good work! Nicely done on all of it.
I was surprised they didn't use spreader bars.
Wow, I learned something about the Tayana 42. I thought it was a keel stepped mast and it's not ? It seems a blue water sailboat like that, with a skeg hung rudder would have a keel stepped mast. Now I question my other assumption; I thought a keel stepped mast was more stable, in comparison, to a deck stepped mast. I have learned alot from your videos and, I believe if I was going to purchase an older sailboat, I could, from your videos, put together a very complete preventive maintenance program and schedule for the entire boat systems. Thank you for the knowledge Adam !
Enjoy this week sailboat ⛵️ video! Ready for sailboat ⛵️ haul out on your sailboat ! 😘⛵️😀 Mike from Missouri
Feathering props are more than a little over-sold. I looked at one recently that gave most horrendous clunk when the shaft first spun in gear. A big fixed-blade 2-blade prop is difficult to beat.
Good to see you back again.👍
So glad you are back (again). Had wondered where you had got to… I now can see - up on the hard!! Good luck with the boat jobs, but remember to enjoy yourselves too 😎
Hmm…I think the prop shaft won’t be quite so easy to get back in…look forward to that episode! Thanks for sharing.
Great episode. Have missed watching you guys.😊
Thank You
Strippers poles are cool. Just keep Adam off it.🙃🤣. I hope all your jobs go as quick as that prop shaft coming out.
.... Whew ... had me worried when you were knocking out the stantion post that all of a sudden it was going fall on live action photographer Khiara .. she couldn't be standing judging by the camera angle .. Yay! of course the two of you had it all in hand .... laughed at your reactions when the prop shaft more or less just slid out .. thx for the share and the peek into your life .. as always .. never stop dreaming, just dream bigger .. have fun be safe, save our oceans ....
You might consider replacing the compression post or at least lengthening it a bit. A compression structure/post on a boat of this size should never contain any organic material, i.e. wood of any type or balsa coring anywhere in the column.
Install the compression post on the outside of the boat, from the cabin top down to the original compression post step. If you make the post a small amount longer and then through bolt it to the cabin top this will insure that only the post carries the compression load of the mast. This will require that the post base be a separate piece. The original mast step can be attached to the plate attached to the top of the compression post. Pay particular attention to slight variations between the perfectly vertical compression post and any angle to it, made by the cabin top and post base.
I used this method on three Westsail 43s that I built and my own Cape Dory 28 in which I did a solo circumnavigation. The 43 is similar to your boat but a bit heavier with a bit more sail area. The compression post was made from 3" Schd 40 galvanized steel pipe with a 6" long piece of 304SS pipe welded to the bottom to help eliminate corrosion in the bilge. The pipe is about 3 1/2" O.D. The plate in the bilge had a slug of SS welded to it just small enough to fit inside the pipe. This keys the pipe to the post so that it cannot move, yet the entire thing can be removed should the need ever arrive. The lower end of the compression post should have a notch in it to let water drain from the inside of the pipe.
Not sure if your post base is only on the hull or also on the hull above the ballast. In any case it can be lag bolted down and epoxied to hold it in place. To insure a flat area for the base make a low dam(s) and fill the space with a mixture of slow setting epoxy and sterilized sand(if you can find any). Sterilized sand is cleaned, washed, dried and contains no organic material, it is used in the US for sand boxes made for kids. This will also elevate the base plate slightly so it does not sit in bilge water that may accumulate in the area.
Finish the compression post, where it shows, in any way you desire.
You two work so hard on your boat,you must be exhausted by now! It’s good to get these things done though.
easy way to check for bend in a shaft is rest the ends in some kinde of V. i use wooden v blocks. then set up some thing in the midle for referance. can be aything stable that can come close to the shaft. turn the shaft slow and look for deviation. simple and cost nothing
Did you name drop John Kretschmer @ 9:14 ? That is a mighty good friend to have in the sailing world!
Glad to see you two hard at it, had to redo the glass on the mast to post interface, well dig out the rot & fill.
compression braces on ballads are the same, before 74-75 they used a mild steel encased in polyester 1/2 in and 1/2 out - after 75 they went to a galvanised steel compression brace, just that small change meant the difference between having to replace the brace or if its still going strong 50 years later. It also helps to keep them dry, if the boat sits with water in it (over winter for instance) then it will be destroyed pretty fast. Just make sure that the foot of the compression post can drain properly... another great episode, pat on the head for Adam and kisses for Kiara
Good time for a dripless seal (Volvo DS iv found to be good & reasonably cheap)
You are going to need a tool to get the new shaft in. The pressure you felt pulling it out will be very difficult to overcome in reverse. When you pulled it out you were at the end of the "arm". Going in the same amount of FT lbs will need to be applied very close to the hull. To test this, you may want to check by re-installing to the old shaft to see if it going to be a problem. Love the content and keep the adventure going.
Your compression post looked fine, it may not look pretty at the bottom but it's still strong. But having water come down through inside the mast is a bit concerning. As far as the prop shaft goes, I saw some pitting on it, so make sure it's not where the stuffing box / seals are or you'll have a leaky shaft. And as far as straightness goes it's best to bring it to a machinist and have them throw a dial indicator on it.
Stay groovy and stay safe.
Upside down in the bilge, been there, rowing back to shore in the dinghy in choppy conditions was interesting.
By all means you did the right thing on the compression post. I would venture to say building a base pad out of a noncorrosive and hardened material would be the plan and measurement of any new height of a new base is critical or the post will not fit snug, you do not want it to bow out the hull bottom if you have to jam the post back in to place. Thanks John
Loved the video!
You can salvage that mast post. Perhaps cut off the corroded plate, and have a new stainless one (perhaps a little thicker) welded to the new cut surface. A decent drainage hole (or two) would help also. Stagnant seawater will attack stainless. When the environment is oxygen-depleted, it is the chlorides in the seawater that do the damage. Chlorides are rendered inert (or near-so) in an oxygenated environment. It is stagnant seawater, oxygen-depleted, and chloride-rich that is the real enemy.
Hold the shaft on an angle in the sunlight. look carefully at the line of light created by the reflection. It will tell the tail.
So there's a little play in the prop, and perhaps a small bend in the shaft. I've heard of sailors worried about losing the prop and shaft.
I may not remember correctly but I think there are several types of Stainless Steel alloys and one is supposed to be best for marine use. Since you are at a Marine establishment, I hope they will know this.
Let the games begin at 10 minutes and 39 seconds the double entendres of the conversation will make you spit your coffee out
Lazy French!
Just find a fairly flat surface and roll the shaft over it is bent you should be able to see it.
Glad to see your finally getting the shaft fixed after all the trouble it has given you over the years
Checking a shaft for straightness is very easy. You just need two straight edges (don't get carried away with precision straight, 2 pieces of angle iron will work fine). Lay them out parallel to each other and level spaced almost as far apart as the shaft is long. Roll the shaft on the edges. You will see right away if it isn't straight. If you want a measurement as to how bent a cheap dial indicator and a pair of V-blocks can be surprisingly accurate - more than enough for what you are doing.
Best to use fixed blades on prop
Laugh and have fun whenever you can
Oh sure, just when it gets interesting... tune in next week for more stuff...
I'm a marine bodger not an engineer. I'm fascinated to hear what you guys conclude is the correct answer to the corrosion problem at the base of the Compression post - who knew it was so complex?
Never any end. Grin
Two wood v blocks ( as rough as u like ) put the shaft in them rotate you will soon see if it's bent !! Easy
To measure up to 1 or 2 mm of deviation in the shaft I'd take a string of rope. Run the string from one and to the other of the shaft and see in in certain areas the string separates from the shaft. I'd do at least two measurement separated by 45°. It's free and it's more precise then eye ball it.
good stuff
The T52 has a slightly offset shaft, to starboard to allow exactly what you’re talking about.
What about building an epoxy shim to land the bottom of the compression post on that you can slide in under the post and then glass in so that you don't have to jack the roof to make room for the hypotenuse length when angling it in? You could even epoxy nuts into the shim to bolt the post to if you felt the need. Sorry, came to this video a month too late.
Roll the shaft on a table. You will see if it is bent that way
Find a flat surface lay the shaft on it and roll it with your hand like you would do with a snooker or pool cue, you'll soon see if its not straight or like a banana lol
Stainless in an anaerobic environment will corrode like an mfer. Keep the stainless open to the air, not wrapped in glass trapping salt water
Just flip the compression post upside down and paint the crap end.
Are you folks still in St Martin? Love to take you out for a beer and a meal.
Adam can you do me a favor and let me know how you are securing the aft solar panels to the pushpit and the stanchion - it looks like an adjustable rod between them?
You'll be in good hands at TOBY. Great folks. Buy them a few beers and get them to tell the story of when Irma went through. Beer time is 1600. Please ask after Colin. About the nicest guy you will meet there. Brilliant with fiberglass, rigging, etc. He'll definitely steer you right. Please pass along best regards to everyone there, especially Keith from the "Davids" of Miss Pegotty of Leamington"
Sorry about your problems. I have a question if you don't mind?
Is it okay to remove the post without first placing support beams? Just watched Beau & Brandy and they also removed their compression post however they placed support beams to take the weight of the mast.
Our boat is also deck stepped.
The mast was already removed before they started on the compression post. B&B still had the mast up and they're in the water, not on the hard.
@@rumblechick73 oh no wonder! Thank you ☺️
I think they put the shaft in first and could be have to take out the shaft with the engine. I wonder if could contact the makers of the boat. Yacht. I was wrong then.
hurray your back Interesting turn of events that matches "Good Bad and Ugly" same issue. So to see a rather "sketchy" solution to your same issue, You might visit their channel. Spoiler they do it in the water with the mast in place. Will mention you guys on their comment if I can find them again
Project Atticus did a similar fix…
If you had access to a granite counter top you can roll test it.
Isn't that where the superyacht lost steerage and hit the dock to avoid hitting the bridge?
Woop! Boat work starts here! Enough of this sailing nonsense! 😉😉
posting a post about post compression post
Can you roll the prop shaft on a flat surface to check for bend? Seems like that would work.
it will work but won't have great precision.. a lathe and a dial indicator would be nice.
You can use 4 wine glasses and some kind of stick as indicator. make "wheels" of the wine class legs (the steel slides on them almost like rollers) per each end. Then you can use a stick to indicate various places. Use materials with known thickness to test deviation (paper, aluminum foil, saran wrap..)
@@PasiSavolainen interesting.. that's a smart idea
Cruising: working on your boat in exotic locales.
Bah! You don't need a lathe to check straight. Cut two v-notches in two sawhorses and clamp a flashlight above that close to the shaft at night. You'll see it if bent.
15:38 no eye protection. Ads...I love ya...but they are the only organs we haven't sorted out how to replace.
Didn’t your parents warn you about playing ball in the boat?!?
Was that a bearded clam @ 5:56?
Nope, taking her off the camera while he's talking didn't do it. Still a snooze fest. Just kidding. Great video guys!
Guy’s you are obviously doing all this cruising malarkey wrong. After watching many other sailing channels you should be spending 95% of your time swimming, eating out, drinking and making easy windward passages… armature’s! 😘
Way too much work for me haha.
Probably stainless wet & starved of oxygen ==rust-corrosion problem.
You need to watch that other channel, Beau and Brandy? To see how you SHOULD (not) replace a compression post - CongoRats on at least stepping the mast!
Great channel, keep up the hard work and great videography.
😁
OI, roll the shaft on a flat floor and if u see a wonk in it then u know its screwed, lol and yes its as simple as that.... hahahahaha
Khiara, someone’s been telling you porkys 🤟that’s about 2” just for the record.
What!? No pole dancing?
Yahoo, having some fun now.
it might be the world's tiniest strip club, but it's still a strip club.
:-)
Stainless Steel can rust... Just sayin it is probably stainless
Volvo seal
John 3:16
King James Version
16 For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life.