Okay so what the title should read is "dont cheap out on lights" Your title is sensationalized and makes it seem like LED bulbs are not worth it whatsoever. Way to beg for clicks.
Agreed. It's stupid all together because every auto manufacture these days is using LEDs. He likes himself and he wants to be somebody so he's playing the hype game on a subject that he feels gives him an important relevance to life. Carry on carry on
@@diamondheat9 If you can’t stand it, there is a solution! Click on the “...” menu for the video, then “Report” then “Spam or misleading” then “Choose one” and select “Misleading text” and follow the instructions. A similar option is available for misleading thumbnails and other junk people pull.
The difference between a halogen bulb and an incandescent bulb, in case anyone is wondering, has to do with the tungsten filament vaporizing and depositing a metallic film on the inside of the bulb, turning the glass envelope into a mirror that traps light inside. Halogens contain a gas that combines with the vaporized tungsten, and continuously redeposits it back on the hot filament, keeping the glass nice and clear.
Good point. I believe halogen also allows the filament to be heated to a higher temperature without premature failure or causing those deposits on the bulb glass, thereby allowing it to glow hotter and brighter.
@Land and Lore Photograph Off Road Adventures And so is a tulip bulb if you set it on fire, but still, all three are distinct if you understand their composition.
@Land and Lore Photograph Off Road Adventures Generally in the lighting trade, regular incandescent bulbs are referred to as tungsten bulbs (tungsten being the filament material) while halogens are called tungsten halogen. It just gets confusing when colloquial terms are used.
Tungsten halogen bulbs only have the halogen cycle (where the tungsten is redeposited to the filament) after a period of time at 250-1,100C (485-2100F), hence the need for the quartz envelope. Short on-off cycling of halogen lamps do not provide sufficient time for the required heating, and thus the tungsten builds up on the envelope interior. Burning the lamp for 10 minutes at full power will redeposit the tungsten to the filament.
Another great use for the 12V LED bulbs is in RV's and Camper Trailers. Changing out the old incandescent bulbs to LED's really cuts down on the power drain from the batteries while providing much better light.
For anyone wondering, halogen is a better incandescent bulb. There is a glass bubble of a halogen gas around the filament which allows the filament to get hotter using the same power and usually lasts longer too.
@@bones007able you would never touch the inner bulb with anything that might transfer grease. Halogen headlights are just the inner bulb, or other quartz halogens that used to be used for high power floodlights. The somewhat more common (now) is a screw in halogen e26 with two separate bulbs layered. No problem touching the outer with bare hands.
But that dome light bulb is just your run of the mill standard incandescent bulb. Not halogen filled. If it were a halogen bulb it would melt the translucent plastic cover.
I don’t understand why so many people do not know the difference between halogen and incandescent...you cannot touch halogens, the oil from your skin reacts with the glass and it will either burn out prematurely or burn out or possibly explode the first time it gets hot. The only bulbs in a car that may be halogen is in the headlights and/or fog lights, (and possibly DRLs). All the other bulbs that have a filament in your car are incandescent. (Period).
Led lights should be illegal they're way too bright blinding other drivers down the road at night next time I see an LED light I'm going to buy a f****** mirror put it on my car and hopefully you blind your f****** self
The main reason I installed the LED interior bulbs was because of the reduced power used, 1.5 Watts with many of the LED bulbs vs. 10 Watts with the incandescent bulbs. This helps for those times where a light gets left on accidentally and drains your battery overnight!
The only problem I had with the ones I ordered was the glue that bonds the metal leads. In hot summer heat lasted about 2 months. If you find a good brand stick with it. They aren’t all the same.
That difference can be a huge one when it is for the lights used in the hazard flashers. I recall being by the roadside with a dead car and the flashers dragging the battery down before help arrived.
@@billj4137 The best are the non-plastic ones like at 3:35. I've lived with the grief you mention and it was no fun. I have had good luck with "SIR IUS LED" 194 bulbs from Amazon, but I would rather buy LEDs off the rack where I can see how they are made. Sometimes it is better to be lucky than good, other times it is better to just be good.
I was a building engineer in two high residential high rises for over forty years during that time I had to make numerous shifts to new lighting technology (electronic ballasts,, f8, f6, low pressure sodium to high pressure sodium, and finally to LED’s which I have in 1999 f50) my advice is buy from a company that you have heard of (Philips, GE, Sylvania etc) yes they’re more expensive but they will probably last longer. Good luck!
@@ElantraFukkenGang Just replaced my 8 year old OEM halogen bulbs in my Jeep Wrangler with the Sylvania Silverstar Ultra Halogen H13 bulbs and that made a little difference. Now my next task is replacing the headlight itself as these are the originals and the clear lens has fogged over to the point of no return.I wasn't expecting a significant improvement in illumination since I am staying with halogen but some improvement will be gained with clear, not cloudy, headlight lenses.
I've never had an LED interior light go bad. I'm still running LEDs I've installed over 10 years ago. One thing to watch on custom LED lights is sometimes with pairs of LEDs, the instructions tell you to put it on the wrong side and it won't fit there!
he does this in all his videos. Got you to post a comment, see the point of it? misstate and the experts get irritated. Brilliant tactic for engagement if you ask me.
@@davidbostock6089 In the abstract this is what GOOD parents do with their kids. Its what good managers do with their staff. Confrontational management. Point is challenge one to engage. In doing so they become better people. The everybody wins a trophy mentality leads to soft spoiled brat people. There are no safe space in the real world. That's a GOOD thing.
Man, As an electronics engineer, I can tell that not only the failure is related to heat sinks, but also they need high voltage spike protection. A car is a noisy environment, specially from the ignition coils, great LED Build design involves voltage clamping. Modern cars which have LEDs considered in their design incorporate those voltage clamps, but older cars (30 year old cars) don't. what kills most aftermarket LEDs are voltage spikes from the ignition coils, not the heat dissipation.
My car came with LED tail lights and DRLs/sidelights and rear LED fog light as standard, my upgrade to LED front fog lights, LED number plate bulbs, reverse light and LED Brake lights and LED side and rear indicators and headlights have all been fine. The only halogen bulbs left on my car are the front indicators as upgrading them caused hyperflash.
True. I thought the same. In my experience, LEDs make a high frequency feedback that interferes with radio reception. Especially weaker AM and FM stations.
@@HamiltonSRink Only the ones that use a DC buck converter to limit current do that RF noise. a transistor or resistor on it's own will dissipate some heat but not create any RF noise.
I missed the discussion about LED tail lights that trigger the fault switch indicating a non functioning light. On my bike, I had to install a converter to let the bike know the lights are working. I was told at the auto parts shop that wasn’t necessary, so I dumped good money into purchasing taillight LEDs in my 2013 RAM truck. Almost immediately to fault switch was triggered. Back to halogen. I’d like to know the fix to this problem.
@@kenflauding6041 In future, the electrical engineers who design automobile electrical systems, will incorporate LED's properly. Until then, my personal vehicles will be using OEM type bulbs. Now if you happen to be a qualified electrical engineer, you most likely know what is required. I for one don't enjoy being blinded by oncoming traffic when these bright lights are aimed too high.
A problem I see is the manufacturers are now in an "arms race" as to who has the most intense headlights, along with signals that are too close to the headlights so you can't tell if the cars turning until its right on top of you!
I hate driving at night because a lot of vehicles lights behind me are so obnoxiously bright . I literally have to adjust all my mirrors down because its blinding.
Tailgater repellent: Run you mirrors down and out. Then adjust the ratchets to shine the light straight behind. When you get a blinder, just run your mirrors thbthis position and let him see his own lights. Has worked for 30 yrs 👍🔔😱
I am glad I am not the only one complaining about headlights.I thought it just might be because I am in my 60's, These lights are dangerous to oncoming traffic and also blinding in rear view mirrors. This industry needs to be studied and standardized.
There are a lot of considerations that weren't mentioned in the video. Most older lamp housings were designed for bulbs with a very specific light source location and directivity, with a reflector and lens designed to create a very carefully considered dispersion and light output pattern. LED replacements rarely come close to matching the light source location of the bulbs they are replacing, so you get hot spotting and poor light output even if the bulb is nominally brighter. We've all seen this when people put in LED bulbs in their brake lights, resulting in a small red dot in the center of the lens area, instead of bouncing off the reflector and lighting up the entire brake light area. The problem can be especially bad with LED headlight bulb replacements, often resulting in a dangerous beam pattern with poor road illumination and glare for oncoming drivers. It can even affect interior lights, with high glare blueish light and poor dispersion to light up the interior. Blueish "cool" interior lighting may look "fresh" and "new", but it also can cause increased eyestrain and fatigue. At one time you could also find "warm white" LED bulbs with around 3000K color temperature, but these seem to have become increasingly scarce.
Agreed about the brake and front lights, it's a matter that should be tested before going on the road, although inside lights are not that often used therefore I see no problem switching them, my original halogen inner lights are rather fade so I don't think it could be worse at all.
I'll stick with halogen head light bulbs. Time tested at least. No guarantee how long the led lights gona last ,for any application on the car .head and dip lights also the blinker lights on a smart car for two. Is a nightmare to change. Unless you get the whole front plastic panels of to make easier. Then that also takes time to unscrew the whole front panel .which is all in one .
100% agree. good comment. I used to be on the led band wagon. no more. I think it's just a fashion statement and at the same time causing serious glare and safety issues for all the motorists out there. I love my factory toyota projector housings with halogen bulbs aimed correctly. hard to beat in my opinion. Lastly I'll add this to cap off your comment: There is a reason(s) oem's choose a headlight in the 3000-4500 kelvin range. I have yet to see a factory led in that range but factory led headlights have a good non offensive beam pattern from what i've seen.
Good comment. And these LEDs with the high color temperature (bright blue/white) are the worst for glare. Very blinding for oncoming drivers. There's a reason they call it "soft white", doesn't strain the eyes.
Thanks for the informative video. However, I don't think you were comparing LEDs to "halogen" bulbs. Bulbs you' were replacing are "tungsten" (filaments, that is) or, otherwise known as "incandescent" bulbs. Halogen bulbs do have high draw (amperage), and do have very high heat output, but also tend ro have very bright, "white" color output, like the LEDs you're comparing. Halogen bulbs are only used by auto manufacturers in headlights (they run way to hot to be safely used in other vehicle locations).
Some truck drivers living in areas with snowy winter had regret switching to LED lights for the headlights of their truck. Ice built up on the cover of their headlights so much that they had to park the truck to have the ice removed. With incandescent light bulbs, the heat from the bulbs can prevent ice from building up on the cover of the headlights.
@@urielhernandez3286 It doesn't matter if the color of the LED bulb for vehicles are white or yellow, the headlights are still more likely to be covered in ice than headlights with incandescent bulbs because LEDs are more energy efficient, i.e. release much less heat than incandescent bulbs, no matter they give out white or yellow light. GOOGLE: LED Headlights are dangerous in snow/ice storm Some people suggested spraying the LED headlights with cooking spray, Fabulous PB Blaster or WD-40 before you head out in a snowstorm. Even if it works, I think it's too much hassle..
Sometimes, error codes can come up with LEDs because of the power draw difference. What I wish the vehicles still have now are mechanical flashers, instead of the rate controlled by the BCM (body control moduele). Just replace the flasher with a LED unit and you're set. Now, if you want to use LEDs in the turn signals, you have to add resistors to control the flash rate and in some cases, other areas where an error code come up. Mount the resistor on the metal surface (plasic will melt if placed there) for heat disipation. Manufacturers should've left that alone.
...Because it looks like a waste of time and money to me...and you might end up breaking things and buying bulbs more than once and replacing ones that don't need replacing. Find a better use of your time and money.
The only reason not to is a slightly common issue with turn signal bulbs not drawing enough power to make the blinker circuit work right in older cars.
Good info. And understand LEDs are not great for replacement in a headlamp, not designed for LED assembly, since they throw out light differently than an incandescent. Most headlamps are reflective so although an LED will be whiter; brighter the light will not go out as far since most of are not designed to be used in a deflector housing. Projectors a different story. As for heat...yes LEDs can get hot. Most LED headlamp assemblies equipped as OEM on a vehicle have small fan assemblies in the back or a heavy duty head sink. Some LED replacement assemblies will have small fans. Some are designed for reflective housings; most are not. And when using for turn signals, you might need a resistor for each bulb or you will get hyper flash.
Exactly! Vehicle manufacturers design the luminary assembly (headlights, brake, side markers, fog lights, etc.) for a specific bulb type. Replacing those incandescents in your vehicle with LEDs could cause poor results. (Brightness is only one criterion. The way the bulb illuminates in the direction intended by the vehicle’s designers, at the proper level of illumination is a totally different, yet not an unimportant, matter.)
@Manolis Gledsodakis , 🔵 All that you have said is true!....... but you missed my point entirely. The statement that I was addressing was The one made by 'Neil Anderthal', which was: "You're calling an incandescent bulb a halogen, and I'm supposed to take you seriously? ".◻ What I was trying to get across to him was that: Incandescent Bulbs=Filament Bulbs, Halogen Bulbs are Filament Bulbs, therefore; Halogen Bulbs ARE "Incandescent Bulbs"!!
Not that we're supporting any side, but the creator of this repeatedly stated that he was not claiming to be an expert on the subject matter, but sharing his realtime experience with led lights.
I personally like having a cold white LED bulb in the center dome light while keeping the two reading lights intact as incandescents. Depending on how fast I'm going to get back to driving at night, I can pick whether I want a dim-as-poop, pleasantly warm light, or the bright and effective blueish light that fills the entire interior. Managing the duration of night blindness like this is quite useful to me and it allows me to have the best of both worlds too.
@@WM22 Agreed, according to Purkinje effect the higher the CCT the brighter it should be so for those lights 3200k high CRI and r9 should be better for preserving night vision and distance vision.
I just bought red or green ones like hunters use on their flashlights, I saw them at Scheels, inquired, and this is what they are used for, to see well while hunting with rifles and other boom sticks. They don't destroy all those rods and cones within our ocular blobbage we need alive and well and available on weekends to rent for kiddos bday parties. But really I tried it and if you just don't touch up the makeup according to their standpoint you'll be doing great and looking much sharper than sharper image using them. I used them for constant map queries while working to deliver food at night for Jimmy John's I never got the dreaded visual impasse but I still have handy immunity to iocane powder whilst delivering in the evenings for JJ's. I had a point amongst the words somewhere here..... SQUIRREL
All he is saying people us that the cheap Chinese LED'S design has flaws like most chinese knockoffs. Solid state LED will not overheat but the LEDs itself will not overheat or has any heat
@@charletonzimmerman4205 Bulbs are things you plant in the ground to grow stuff, Lamps are things that give light when energized by chemical reaction or electrical discharge. LOL TTFN.
A factor in choosing them should also be to avoid using so called CANBUS compatible lamps where you don't need them. In order to not trigger fault detection in modern cars they have a surface mount resistor on the circuit board to simulate the load of a lamp. This is the source of a lot of the heat and often uses more power than the LEDs themselves. For interior lights that are not subject to CANBUS lamp testing you are better to use types without the load resistor (or you can remove it). I will not repeat the correct comments pointing out that not all filament lamps are halogen.
I had the same problem when I replaced all the interior lights in my CamperVan.They were slightly longer in size,so stretched the contacts to make them fit.Excellent lighting now almost like day light with 12 volts.LEDs are certainly the best,
Those applications in this video clip are interior lighting. In most circumstances those light ing devices (LEDs) may not be on for a significant time (eg. minutes), and overheat issue may not be big concerns .
changed out the interior lights on my vehicle years ago. Also, swapped out my backup lights. No problems. I guess I got lucky and bought the right ones. It clearly made a huge difference in the plus column. I recommend them
Incandescent mean so hot it glows. That's why incandescent bulbs are so inefficient. Most of their energy is going out as heat. LED's (of the sort used in car/home lighting) produce a narrow spectrum of very bluish light and a little waste heat. The yellow you see is actually coating of various phosphors that absorb that light and re-emit it across the whole visible spectrum tweaked to some white point (i.e. 'daylight' or 'warm white', etc.) somewhere between 2700k and 6000k in most cases.
My experiences have been varied. Most of the festoon style bulbs have had heat sinks, but the failures I've had have been a result of the lead free solder failing. Lead has superior uses.
I paid less than $20 total for (2) pair of Ebay LED's... One pair of 3000K amber fog lights and one pair of 6000k (4) sided LED headlights. It's been (5) years now and they still work and look great on my 2015 Sierra. I have absolutely no complaints. It was an inexpensive solution that greatly exceeded my expectations.
@@johnmccormick8159 exactly. I left my LED headlamps (yes the actual headlamps) on by accident for the day and the car still started at the end of the day. Couldn't do that if they were incandescent globes.
True. But if the lamp has a reflector, 80% of the heat is radiated infrared out of the lamp. The LED heat isn't radiated because the heat comes from the electronics and LED chip and not from the LED light itself, so finally the LED gets much hotter than the old bulb.
@@SpeedFlap Is your point that if we could see infrared, the incandescent could be considered much more efficient? 😀😀😀 Totally agree with the rest of your post. 👍👍👍
On other thing to consider is that the LEDs are most often not placed correctly on the bulb to be used in an old halogen-type DRL or other external light. The reflectors are designed with assumption that the filaments are in certain positions. LEDs that are not placed in similarly exact position will cause light to go in all different directions that it's not supposed to go in an old reflector, and will blind other drivers.
sometimes blinding someone is better than people pulling infront of you because your lights arent bright enough. ive had to drive with my brights running 24/7 to avoid these distracted Asian drivers
My car had halogens from factory but in a projector housing, cheap China LEDs were washed out rubbish but the Philips aftermarket ones I used gave the exact same pattern just brighter and better colour.
The only problem i have with replacing my stock car bulbs with leds is hyperflashing, where i just learned that it can be fixed by updating the flasher relay module.
One thing to note is that the bluer color temp and brighter lighting will affect your night vision adversely. Personally, I try to use warmer LEDs (2800-3000k) rather than cool white or daylight. Also, I prefer not to have super bright interior lights other than maybe the cargo area. IMHO, it just blinds you when it's pitch black out, but it's really just personal preference.
Exactly. I have LED reverse lights and I still need to get LED cargo ones. My reverse lights are by Luminex by DieselLEDS and they have a great heat sink. As far as headlights I only use HID so I don’t blind oncoming traffic.
@@genericdude6551 Me neither, that's why I don't get it. How can brighter light adversely affect your night vision? The whole point is to be able to see more clearly, hence you fit a brighter light.
I have no issues with LED's by any means, and the less draw on power is certainly a wonderful reason to get them. My personal preference is to run incandescents simply because the light feels a lot more friendly and less harsh than LED counterparts
There are less harsher LEDs, they're usually marketed as "warm white" or "golden white" bulbs so you'd have to look out for those. I love LEDs in general but cannot STAND the Bright White LEDs like the ones used in this video. Warm White/Golden White LEDs have a more sunlight-hued brightness as opposed to the cold, clinical look of the Bright White LEDs.
Meh, drawing less power is one of the last possible reasons to get them for automotive interior use because you will never notice the difference. The infinitesimal difference in the load on the alternator (pertaining to engine efficiency and thus fuel economy) to make a few mA more current for the brief moments you have those interior lights on, is less than the difference in fuel economy from farting towards the rear while driving. You might think I'm kidding but it's really not measurable as a statistically significant % of fuel consumption over the entire operation cycle of the vehicle. Now if you were instead talking about an amp or more mains AC current for your home light bulbs on several hours a day, then things change completely, makes the power savings of LED over incandescent quite worthwhile. If you prefer warmer color temperature light, there are both vehicle and home lighting options that aren't such a cold color temp.
Something I learned about installing LED lamps...they can't be mixed on the same parallel load circuit with incandescent bulbs. If you try, they will not light or only light very dimly and quickly overheat and fail. The resistance of the incandescent bulbs creates a current droop that will kill some LED array lamps.
I completely rebulbed my van lights including the running lights and headlights to LEDs and I have been nothing but totally satisfied with how well they have worked in my van. Much brighter lights and much less power draw.
@@abyssmanur3965 Normally, I would agree. I always hated the guys with floodlights coming at me at night.. However, my issue is that in my truck, there is no incandescent bulb that is bright enough for my personal standard of acceptable brightness. I would travel with my brights on and no-one would even notice the brightness of them. Usually, if you have your brights on, people would be constantly flashing you to turn them off. That doesn't happen to me.. I found some great leds on Amazon that are brighter than the incandescents, but not too bright and I am very satisfied with the results...
I pulled the trigger on a set of LEDs off a Facebook ad for my 01 Xterra about 7 years ago. Yeah yeah, back then, there were actual legit ads on Facebook. They were well under $100 for the set, they have a heat sink as well as a fan all built in. They are still going strong today.
I've read enough comments to know that the two items I was going to bust you for have been fairly well hammered home, those being Halogen vs incandescent, and the the fact that you SHOULD replace your light bulbs with LEDs. I will say this, I like your editing.
I installed LEDs (replacement bulb type, not the sheet of LED module) for my brake/tail lights on my 63 Beetle, and you can actually see them in daylight. WONDERFUL safety improvement!
Incandescent bulbs are better during the winter months because of the heat output. It melts the snow when it accumulates on the lens cover. LEDS have very little heat which allows snow to build up.
Very well done review. IMO, if the intent is to replace the incandescent automotive bulbs in your vehicle with LED's, pay a little more and go with a reputable brand (e.g. Sylvania, Phillips, etc). I would steer clear of any off brand LED's. If you are just adding them for accents then that's fine but not for signals and headlights which your life depends on for safe driving. I have been tinkering with LED's for making custom task lighting in my home workshop and from all I read about LED's, heat dissipation is a huge factor in prolonging their life.
I agree that brake and signal lights need to be reputable brands. A friend replaced his combination bulbs that light as a tail light and should light brighter as a stop light when the brake is engaged. The light output between the tail light and the brake light was almost indistinguishable and very difficult for a driver behind him to determine that he was braking.
I have replaced my reversing lights with LED's and what a difference they make. Hadn't thought about doing all the other lights, like map lights and door lights, but I will be . Thanks. Really enjoyed the video and particularly your clear presentation. Cheers from Australia.
@@gssf.gr29 ...Yeah ! how silly of me, hey ? Actually, I had thought about it, but that was one of those things I put on the "I'm gonna do" list lol. I was wondering though if the fact that the interior light and the map lights come on slow, if that would affect anything, but I suppose I'll soon find out. Thanks for giving me a serve for being slack 🤣
@@steiny3353 Ah no I wasn't having a go, it just seemed odd. Well worth doing, easy upgrade and they make a huge difference. I did the interior, the reverse lights (much brighter when reversing) and put a strip light in the boot to replace the existing one, cheap, 5 minute job and the difference is amazing. Don't worry too much about the heat problems mentioned in the video, LEDs give out far less heat than the standard bulbs but don't buy the cheap unbranded, they don't last long and do burn out.
@lAcid Rainl ...Is that what that is..I often see on you tube videos where the stop lights are flickering, I've also seen both indicators flashing at the same time too, but that would HAVE to be a problem with hos electrical system. But as you say it's bloody anoying
You revealed to me in your video there are safety and reliability concerns with LED's. On DC Volt LED's I have seen plastic interior parts melt. Thanks for finding the interior lights with heatsinks. Fully agree with your point about temperatures of LED's; yet solutions I found exist for the DIY folks. So I measured 236 deg F on the aluminum heatsink on just one (1) AC powered LED. One time I bought highly You Tube recommended LED Headlamps. But the cheap electronic ballast melted before the LED. Best practice solution I have found to make these last longer without issue is add additional heatsink material. Separately, now there are other big concerns about LED manufactured products of cheap unregulated quality dumped on the unsuspecting market. Let's always advise the buyer beware especially DIY'ers.
The term for what he's spent so much time describing is "Fit for purpose". For high heat lamps that have no heat dissipating ability, air flow is critical. For continuous use lamps, such as markers or headlights, one has to select units designed for that purpose, as they'll take dissipating heat into account in their design. Otherwise, we get melting and the significant potential for something to short to ground, with a very real risk of fire.
Just buy from a reputable dealer. The only outfit I buy my bulbs from has a 2 year warranty on their LED headlight bulbs and 3 years for the rest of the lineup.
@@jayherde0 that is true, but I don't think many if any do. He also claims they don't last as long. They will last longer if the lamp doesn't fail from water egress of overheating, which has been my experience.
I'd rewrite the head: How to research and install LEDs in your car or truck. (Your content does a 180 from "never" to "often should.") As for brand research, peer reviews on e-commerce sites aren't any more reliable than, say, TH-cam videos.
seems to be this guys M\0 ... bait and switch .... he purposely writes his header to make you click because you wonder "why not"..... he did a video on why to trash your CB.... all he did was swap one out....
Thank you for the head's up......I didn't get that far.....Way too ugly to watch. I thought I'd tuned in to some Freddy Krueger commercial........This guy's full of mushrooms.
I learned about this when those cree leds started being mass manufactured. I bought a few cheap flashlights and was amazed at how bright they were for being a $10 light. Well there's a downside, the lack of heat dissipation. I learned my lesson with those, ya can't cheap out on leds because they get super, super hot.
An LED has almost zero resistance and would burn out instantly when voltage was applied. As a result, a series resistor is fitted, but being in the cap, cooling is a major problem. The TOTAL heat is far less, but it's location is the problem. Modern bulbs are now limiting the current electronically, but they are still in their infancy. Hopefully, by the time manufacturers such as Bosch start producing bulbs, the early problems will have been resolved. Some replacement or OE light fittings have the electronics away from the bulbs and mounted on a heat sync. These will probably de the future, with a 15,000 hour design life coupled with low current. LED street lighting is suffering the same problems.
Maybe they’re overdoing the brightness. Maybe some of the extremely cheap ones are overdriving the LEDs. The fairly cheap ones we have have lasted years. But they never feel hot, even after being on for hours.
I watched many TH-cam for educational purposes, I have to mention some people are naturally gifted to teach. It can be many factors the speed of speech, voice tone, and where to emphasize. I am admiring every time when I watch your video. Such a talent I would like to aquire one day, excellent video. 😊 Thanks.
I've switched from incandescent to LED's in all my instrument lights on my two 77 Cougar wagons, and also on all the turn signal lights front and rear. One important thing you may need to know, is that the some LED's are polarity sensitive. If the bulb doesn't work, reverse the bulb in the socket and it may work. Turn signal bulbs have the polarity fixed in the socket. Instrument light sockets are what I'm referring to, so be sure to check to see if they work before you reassemble your instrument panel, i.e. try reversing the bulb in the socket if it doesn't light up. I prefer high intensity LED's in the instrument panel. These are more expensive. I had to drill out the holes to a larger diameter to fit the LED's through the holes they go in. I also had to remove the blue tinted lens covers in the instrument panel to get the bulbs to fit. The LED's do a better job of lighting up the instrument panels on my Cougar wagons. I purchased Sylvania LED's from Advanced Auto Parts. I have had no problem with any of these bulbs burning out or over heating anything.
I put them in my 1980 Mercury Capri (Foxbody) instrument panel because stock 192's are just dim in that cluster. I dont get to dim the LEDs but its alot safer now I can see!
That blue tint is the easiest to manufacture. Getting other color temperatures require special filters that make the LED more expensive and reduce the lumin output a bit too.
I changed my 2013 Ram in 2016 with all LED lights. Put switch back in my directionals on front. All my lights on the front are bright day light except when the directional come on, it switches to amber while blinking and back to white when it stops. Did interior, front and rear all LED .Even did my plow lights led. Bought all from the same company with outstanding reviews. Never had to change another bulb on my truck since. Bought LED tow mirrors also. Change the light configuration for all my lights with the ALGFA OBD from standard to LED. Never had a problem with codes or anything. Draws less power from the battery and alternator.
Bait click title. I expected reasons “to never install on [my] vehicle” but it was all about finding the right LEDs and how “awesome” they look. Cheap advertising gimmicks that leave me feeling like a fishhook stuck in my jaw...
I installed LED lights in the reverse light sockets on my 2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue a few years ago and still bright as ever and you can see my car backing up a mile away. The headlights require an integrated circuit and fans to keep the LED headlights from burning out. Plus, some LEDs are off-road only.
@@jacobstienecker Well, IF you LOOK at the end of his sentence he did say and I quote, "SOME LEDS ARE OFF ROAD ONLY." HA! DOT Approved! I could care less if they are DOT approved or not. Number 1, they are not going to check to see if the lights are approved or not, unless you end up in a accident killing someone. The only reason so many people bitch about LEDS is because 80 % of people who do install them, don't realize their headlights were out of adjustment and end up blinding oncoming traffic. The best part is , is that the ones bitching about them getting blinded, Are to stupid to recall what that white Fog-line is for at the right of the lane. Finally number 3. On being DOT qualified my FUCKS were all expired and had to dispose of all of em. No FUCKS TO GIVE ANYMORE especially the way no body dims their brights until they are seemingly under your front bumper. What ever happened to seeing bright lights shining coming over the next hill !and dimming them before seeing the other headlights! Love my 4 Hikari Bulbs and they were the whitest you could get 2 years ago 9005's and 9006's" 2 each up front in a 2002 S10 ZR2, but I didn't like how when I had the brights on GM had them just using the 2 center bulbs as the Highs. I fixed that and now they all 4 go to being lit up on High beams but they are correctly aimed. I think I may have explained no fucks on my part to give out and why people complain, because they are lookin at very bright lights instead of the fog line painted on the road. Last but not least people don't know how to aim their headlights, did you know it's the same procedure on every vehicle and you can find the directions in the owners manual!
Something to be considered is that whilst it’s all fine and dandy to replace inferior lights with LEDs, not all head lights are suitable for LEDs if they have older reflectors designed for conventional bulbs. These reflectors tend to scatter the light from LEDs because the light is produced or projected differently, this can result in headlights that dazzle oncoming traffic when on low beam. Obviously on high beam it doesn’t matter so if you have separate bulbs for high and low beam then you can use conventional bulbs for the low beam and LEDs for the high beam. Otherwise you better check that your headlights are not blinding, dazzling and annoying other drivers before sticking with them.
I remember being blinded all the time when LEDs were a new thing. Not sure what happened since then, but possibly newer vehicles are designed to accommodate LEDs.
@@deltatango5765 yes newer vehicles that come with LEDs have the correct reflectors to focus them properly without having a dazzling scattered pattern. I have just fitted LEDs in my 2004 Discovery main beam and they’re brilliant (pardon the pun) but I can’t fit them in the dipped beams because they will just blind oncoming motorists.
That is supposed to read “ inferior lights” not “interior” damned unpredictive awful-spell! I can’t edit it now but I guess it doesn’t change the main point. 😎
Have you not heard of LEFs yet?! They’re a new extra bright light called Lumen Extra Frequency! 😆 Apologies, fell foul of unpredictive awful-spell again!! Obviously I meant LEDs 😎
I added leds in my cabin light 2 years ago and they are still working and also in my headlights more than 2 years ago.all leds that I have fitted in my car have passed the M.O.T test every year.
LEDs have disadvantages, on the one hand the high unhealthy blue component in the spectrum compared to a conventional light bulb. In addition, seeing more because it is brighter is only true to a limited extent. When buying LEDs, it is essential to pay attention to the color rendering index. Although the light appears brighter, you can see fewer colors. A conventional light bulb still has an unmatched color rendering index
LEDs are an excellent choice for backup lamps, as they run much cooler and use a fraction of the current, causing less wear on the backup light switch in the transmission. They don't work well on rheostat dimmer circuits, though, such as instrument panel lighting and dome lights. To get them to dim as smoothly and over a wide range of brightness as the incandescent bulbs they replace would require some kind of voltage to pulse-width modulation (PWM) module.
LEDs can be dimmable, but you can't just buy the cheapest available. The cheap ones also have problems with the polarity of the connection. Spending just a liitle more gets you LEDs that are dimmable and are impervious to the polarity of the connection.
@@johnvanlandingham8832 LEDs made fit for purpose can replace normal incandescent bulbs with no problem. Just don't buy the cheapest available, make sure they are appropriate for the application you want to use them for.
Just how long do you spend in reverse...or are you one of those idiots who have to make 90-point turns? To burn out reverse bulbs-Just buy the cheapest crap you can find on eBay or make sure you have a dodgy ground/earth circuit, adding some water helps too!
Just make sure they have good heat sinking on the resistor block and/or have enough LED's in series to handle the voltage. The cheap ones typically use fewer LED's.
The biggest mistake I see people make with LEDs as they don't pay attention to the color temperature. I laugh at people that converted their cars over to LED and they have nothing but blue light.
Temp should be 6000k or under. Anything over that starts to get blue. BUT, that still begs the question as to whether or not the rating on these cheap bulbs is actually true... 🤷♂️
Hear, hear! If you want incandesent "yellow" look for 3000k color temp, 4000k is a nice white, 5000k and up starts looking too "blue" to me. FYI, higher color temp DOES NOT mean brighter light.
@James M...... even back with colored halogen bulbs....then HIDs....bulbs that put out an obvious blue light are freaking ridiculous and is the worst color of the spectrum to use....for lights... LMFAO....
@@duaneantor9157 Tungsten is the filament, true Halogen is a gas but what he's showing opposed to LED is a standard 'Incandescent' bulb which has NO gas other than Air in a vacuum.
@@duaneantor9157 Oops, I miss read, thought you were saying 'Halogen was Tungsten'. Air in a Vacuum? yes,.. it's true,.. there is no degree of vacuum that will rid any volume of area completely of Air, unless there is no volume. In the case of a bulb you have a filament the presiding in the center of the bulb. (hence you have volume and gas (Air)) **Even if it is a vacuum)
Here are a lot more considerations when replacing bulbs in a vehicle than a house. 1. Headlight lens and reflector design are driven by the location and distribution of the light source is. LED light sources are nowhere near the same location and distribution as factory. The LED bulb, even if brighter, is not an indicator of its effectiveness. Many designer lights sold today range that your eye either can't use, or are much less stimulated by. 2. The more red the light, the less it bleaches out your rhodopsin, the better for your night vision. This is why cockpit lighting is red. White, which is the blue end, does the opposite. 3. Bright means you can't see out of your windows at night when you turn the light on. Your interior lighting will last forever anyway because the computer turns them on and off slowly. 4. Sensors depend on current flow to determine when bulbs are burned out and can tell you they are burned out when they are not. 5. You need to make sure the LEDs will actually fit where you plan to use them. That often comes into play with the exterior lighting housings. 6. There are a lot of dependencies in a modern vehicle. Some learn that their radio controls many unrelated things which 3rd party radio vendors sell expensive boxes that go inline to your 3rd party radio to duplicate the functionality previously provided by the OEM radio. An example would be control of interior lighting. Unlike a house, LED retros in a vehicle have a lot less to offer, and a lot more that can make them detractors.
I changed all the dash and other bulbs in my f350 with LEDs. All but the headlamps. I love it. The flasher relay was upgraded to accommodate the lower current of the LEDs. Sometimes with the dash lights polarity is important. If in doubt look for the little + sign and put them in all the same way, then test before putting everything back together, all lit, you are good, no lights, swap them around. Have fun, be safe
I actually like the softer and warmer light of halogen for the interior. And for the headlights, LEDs blind other drivers, maybe with the exception of Philips and Osram original bulbs. But you have other disadvantage with them, you'd have to remove the rubber dust caps and your headlights will fill up with dirt! If you don't remove them the bulb will overheat and there you go your 80+ USD....
@@ivanhoe6366 the major cause is that the LED module isn’t located in the same position the halogen filament is. Therefore changing the focus, spread and aim that the parabolic reflector is designed for.
@@whatsstefon I think "some" of the original equipment led lights are also too bright for oncoming traffic. Is it only me that thinks this? Not sure if my eyes are just more sensitive to it since turning 50.
Same. 15 years ago, I love the look of white HID lights. Now I prefer a warmer looking light, not as yellow as halogen but definately not as white as LED's. It feels like a could see better with a warmer light than just pure white light.
I installed super bright LEDS into my turn signals, brake lights, reverse, and side marker lights. I'm not having issues in my truck, I also installed LEDs into my interior lights and my puddle lamps as well. If you get HF noise you could easily install a inline noise filter into the power line to the radio.
H7 format LEDs worked well in my bike headlights. The two light emitters were about the same size and location as the original filament coil. The snag was the light output overpowered the reflectors making the dip beam cut-off sit too high. I can’t believe that’s not unsolvable but the bulbs I bought were not correctly focussed.
H7 is notorious for being easy to install incorrectly. Installing them incorrectly will bother oncoming traffic. Are you sure that's not what has happened?
Reflectors don't change properties (light pattern) in any way relating to light intensity. This misunderstands what light is, and how it moves and reflects. A moved cutoff means the light source IS differently located in the new bulbs.
Bulbs don't focus light--reflectors or projector lenses do the focusing. If your reflector wasn't designed with your *specific* bulb in mind, the problem you mentioned will be commonplace and you won't get the intended end result of proper illumination.
Replaced all of the lights (that I could) on my MINI Cooper S about 4 years ago with LEDs. Only had one burn out. I have a light error pop up every once in a while but they all work fine
Cool.. I've been slowly replacing all of mine on the FJ.. First was the domes and the reverse lights. So nice being able to see backing up. So far I've had great results going through Diode Dynamics. I like their knowledge, Build quality, and the multiple options they give you depending how bright you want, color and how much you want to spend.
@@EdwinMactalMusicI changed everything except the headlights and 3rd brake light on my 2006 Acura RSX with LEDs from Diode Dynamics. Fantastic output. A little pricey, but bright red tail lights help keep the big guys away
In Northern climates the biggest issue with LED bulbs is their lack of heat. Sure they do produce a fair bit in the plug in part but not much goes towards the lense of the head or tail lights. This becomes a problem during winter as halogen or HID headlamps will melt off the sticky type snow you get right around zero degrees c , LED lights won't. This causes serious reduction in headlight brightness and can make a vehicle ahead of you invisible when you can't see the covered taillights.
FYI, if you buy a good quality LED light, it will last WAAAAY longer than incandescent or halogen! I put LEDs in my VW, for all exterior lighting, 12 years ago and they are still going strong, with no diminished output yet.
The voltage drops of LED’s in the majority of vehicles safe to say should not cause any issues other than some versions and vehicles possibly bringing up error codes because it detects a voltage difference etc, it’s negligible and most good LED’s on the market usually are made to not throw codes, but it depends on the vehicle, they typically offer much better illumination too, usually it’s the super cheap Chinese LED’s that go faulty, make sure to buy them from a certified brand that has warranty.
@Star Pillars This comment right here. This is why I've only bought LED bulbs for my vehicles and my friends, from the same outfit since 2007. From headlight to taillight, and interior..all have been great LED replacements. I did have a pair of 194 LED wedge bulbs go out, but they replaced them.
I pimped my 03 Buick LeSabre with all LED replacements everywhere and now I can't keep the babes off of me. I just bought cheap ones in quantity and hoped for the best. So far, I am the Mac Daddy of LEDs. I even got blue ones for the interior and dude, it is whack.
Steve same here since I bought the house and also we did the church too there bill was somewhere in the 300 plus change bill came down to like 200 plus
I tried the cheap led and kept popping the fuse. I bought next the sylvania LEDs sold at Walmart and these are the same ones I put in my Chevy pick up, worked and still working flawless, not popping the fuses. I’d say it’s definitely worth the extra money for the sylvania’s.
One good point to think about is the fact that the light housing is made to collect the light and focus it at a certain point and an LED might not be pointing in the right direction. it can't take all of the LEDs light and combined it to focus it in the proper direction
The ones I have seen so far, at least for my vehicle, are the diodes are on the sides of the stick, so theres no issue of it not hitting the proper reflectors. Plus my low beams (which seems to be standard now) has a dome lense in front of the LED, so even if it were a straight on light, the dome would probably still spread the light anyways
That is why you only buy LED head lamps that only have two Diodes, one on each side and they are usually aim able in that configuration. By that I mean the light comes out of the locking ring so you can position the 2 diodes so they face the reflectors inside the housing. Hikaris are known for this.
Good points. I learned quickly that just because they fit, doesn't mean it's the correct bulb. Like head and tail lights. The existing factory lamp is designed to work with parabolic reflectors and sometimes frenal lens . Make sure the focal length and light pattern match the original. You might get too much of a flood or too much of a spot pattern.
Nice video. Thanks! I replaced all the lights in my home with LEDs, and I'm mostly happy, except for one thing: I replaced 12, 4-foot fluorescents with the type that still require the ballasts. Big mistake! My new LEDs still hum and buzz, because of the old ballasts, which sucks. It is so easy to simply bypass the ballasts, throw them away, and install a ballast-free LED tube! Now I'm getting ready to tackle my car. Your video will be a great help. Again, thanks!
The worst part or those is that the ballast is still energized. That draws power that completely undermines the point of switching to LED! My shop has 212 4 foot fixtures. I love the efficiency once I did it right, plus, haven't changed a single one in over 4 years
On the live cables that goes inside the lamp holder. There is a condensator. If you change the lights with led you must remove the small condensator ore you will draw to much current. That should work
I did a lot of experimenting with putting 4-foot LED tubes in my fluorescent shop fixtures. In the long run it was cheaper and a whole lot less trouble to just scrap all the fixtures and replace them with dedicated LED shop lights. Out of the 30-odd new units I have bought, only one died. It only lasted a few years.
0:50 Note: Not a good idea to handle Halogen or other bright bulbs with bare fingers. The skin oils get a film on the bulb that shortens it's life. Whatever kind of bulb it is, the packaging should have that caution on it if it is a factor.
Good review. To me the only benefit with LED's is lowered power consumption. I'd rather have the warmer light from incandescent bulbs than the intense cold white of LED's. That brings me back to power consumption and that has almost never mattered with the lighting units I worked with.
You can get warmer-colored LEDs. You aren't restricted to just daylight. If you aren't sure while you're shopping, just look up a lighting temperature guide (for example, 4000K is the more classic "Soft White" yellow-white color, used in most incandescent bulbs, whereas the LEDs in this video are more like 6000/7000K). As for preferences, ideally, I'd want my regular dome lights to be a soft white, while I'd want my actual _map_ lights to be daylight (since you can see in greater detail at that color temp, which is important for reading a map; on the other hand, though, who uses paper maps, these days?).
@@NaruSanavai I had a 04 expedition and I replaced all the interior lights with some soft ice blue lights. They were bright but didn't over power with brightness if you know what I mean. Made eating lunch on night shift easier. But I had some bright bright ice blues in the vanity mirrors. Wouldn't blind you with indirect view but would illuminate your face to spot anything. My bulbs also had aluminum head sinks on the back.
I am adding LED “recessed”, type lighting as part of a renovation. They all have a switch to select five different Kelvin settings from 2700k to 5000k. I use the lower Kelvin settings in places like bedrooms for a warmer light, and higher k settings for places like the fitness center. The same fixture can be adjusted to meet all the needs.
@@almccallie4314 It's good to read that these lights have worked out for you and that you're pleased with them. It's been a year since I posted my comment. I'm currently finishing off the interior of my garage. In other words, transitioning from its original state of bare stud walls to making it like a finished room with sheetrock walls, a ceiling and paint. My electrician suggested the very same recessed lights that you described. When he first mentioned for me to consider installing these, I thought, ehh, having in mind that cold stark light. But he described how they can be set for different kelvins and that they're dimmable, so I decided to try them. What pushed me to go forward with these was due to the number of lights I wanted out there, sixteen. I'll be having him set all of them to the lowest kelvin and live with them. I may like the light they produce, but I'm expecting that they'll need replacing every few years. My experience with the LEDs that look like a regular light bulb, in the recessed fixtures in my kitchen, has been that after a few years they grow dim and become useless.
@@discerningmind when I first started putting these in, I had no idea they were adjustable. They were set on the highest Kelvin and the space looked like an operating room. I quickly learned to select the k setting before installation. As for the life…I think they are supposed to last several thousand hours. I’ve had some of them in over two years now and they look great. I may be wrong about the life though. Your post shows how important lighting really is. Thank you and best of luck with your projects.
@@1RoadGarage Not the same. A halogen bulb is an incandescent bulb where the filament is surrounded by halogen gas. All halogen bulbs are incandescent; not all incandescent bulbs are halogen.
@@bobdodge3171 Both a standard incandescent and a halogen incandescent use electricity to make them emit light. The halogen bulb surrounds the filament with halogen that protects it and may let it burn hotter (and emit more light) while maintaining longevity.
@@bobdodge3171 both are glass bulbs, filled with inert gas, burn a filament, have a warm color temp (2700-3200k), produce most of their energy as heat, have a low life span and look almost exactly the same. So, I said halogen instead of incandescent... not a big deal.
If you do regular blinker fluid changes it should stop the overheating, in those models you might need and aftermarket blinker fluid reservoir the stock ones are too small
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Okay so what the title should read is "dont cheap out on lights"
Your title is sensationalized and makes it seem like LED bulbs are not worth it whatsoever. Way to beg for clicks.
Your right, it is a bad and inaccurate title.
Agreed. It's stupid all together because every auto manufacture these days is using LEDs.
He likes himself and he wants to be somebody so he's playing the hype game on a subject that he feels gives him an important relevance to life.
Carry on carry on
He's a lil' beggar!lol
I can't stand bullshit titles
@@diamondheat9 If you can’t stand it, there is a solution! Click on the “...” menu for the video, then “Report” then “Spam or misleading” then “Choose one” and select “Misleading text” and follow the instructions. A similar option is available for misleading thumbnails and other junk people pull.
“Why you SHOULD install quality LEDs in your vehicle” would be a better title.
Auxbeam is the way to go.
I think you means, "Why you maybe or maybe not should install QUALITY leds in ur vehiclez".
Yeh, he click baited me 😂
The difference between a halogen bulb and an incandescent bulb, in case anyone is wondering, has to do with the tungsten filament vaporizing and depositing a metallic film on the inside of the bulb, turning the glass envelope into a mirror that traps light inside. Halogens contain a gas that combines with the vaporized tungsten, and continuously redeposits it back on the hot filament, keeping the glass nice and clear.
Good point. I believe halogen also allows the filament to be heated to a higher temperature without premature failure or causing those deposits on the bulb glass, thereby allowing it to glow hotter and brighter.
@Land and Lore Photograph Off Road Adventures And so is a tulip bulb if you set it on fire, but still, all three are distinct if you understand their composition.
@Land and Lore Photograph Off Road Adventures Generally in the lighting trade, regular incandescent bulbs are referred to as tungsten bulbs (tungsten being the filament material) while halogens are called tungsten halogen. It just gets confusing when colloquial terms are used.
Tungsten halogen bulbs only have the halogen cycle (where the tungsten is redeposited to the filament) after a period of time at 250-1,100C (485-2100F), hence the need for the quartz envelope. Short on-off cycling of halogen lamps do not provide sufficient time for the required heating, and thus the tungsten builds up on the envelope interior. Burning the lamp for 10 minutes at full power will redeposit the tungsten to the filament.
@Land and Lore Photograph Off Road Adventures 100% correct!
Another great use for the 12V LED bulbs is in RV's and Camper Trailers. Changing out the old incandescent bulbs to LED's really cuts down on the power drain from the batteries while providing much better light.
Also heat. In the summer the interior lights put out a lot of unwanted heat and makes cooling the camper a lot harder in hotter climates.
Absolutely
That is not a halogen bulb. That is an incandescent.
For anyone wondering, halogen is a better incandescent bulb. There is a glass bubble of a halogen gas around the filament which allows the filament to get hotter using the same power and usually lasts longer too.
And you would never touch it with your fingers ....
@@bones007able you would never touch the inner bulb with anything that might transfer grease. Halogen headlights are just the inner bulb, or other quartz halogens that used to be used for high power floodlights. The somewhat more common (now) is a screw in halogen e26 with two separate bulbs layered. No problem touching the outer with bare hands.
But that dome light bulb is just your run of the mill standard incandescent bulb. Not halogen filled. If it were a halogen bulb it would melt the translucent plastic cover.
I don’t understand why so many people do not know the difference between halogen and incandescent...you cannot touch halogens, the oil from your skin reacts with the glass and it will either burn out prematurely or burn out or possibly explode the first time it gets hot. The only bulbs in a car that may be halogen is in the headlights and/or fog lights, (and possibly DRLs). All the other bulbs that have a filament in your car are incandescent. (Period).
Comments were very informative, so I skipped the video. Cheers.
Yes,the best information is from this comment
I'm blind, deaf and don't know brail... Just driving in the dark blasting my stereo high af
So much for TH-cam removing dislike count 😑
Led lights should be illegal they're way too bright blinding other drivers down the road at night next time I see an LED light I'm going to buy a f****** mirror put it on my car and hopefully you blind your f****** self
Isn't that like sticking your head in the sand then getting text messages about what your butt smells like?
Me 10 mins in : So why shouldn’t I install leds in f**** I just got click bated..
The main reason I installed the LED interior bulbs was because of the reduced power used, 1.5 Watts with many of the LED bulbs vs. 10 Watts with the incandescent bulbs. This helps for those times where a light gets left on accidentally and drains your battery overnight!
The only problem I had with the ones I ordered was the glue that bonds the metal leads. In hot summer heat lasted about 2 months. If you find a good brand stick with it. They aren’t all the same.
That difference can be a huge one when it is for the lights used in the hazard flashers. I recall being by the roadside with a dead car and the flashers dragging the battery down before help arrived.
@@billj4137 The best are the non-plastic ones like at 3:35. I've lived with the grief you mention and it was no fun. I have had good luck with "SIR IUS LED" 194 bulbs from Amazon, but I would rather buy LEDs off the rack where I can see how they are made. Sometimes it is better to be lucky than good, other times it is better to just be good.
Stop leaving your lights on
A lot of cars would automatically shut off the lights before you even get to the car....🤷
I was a building engineer in two high residential high rises for over forty years during that time I had to make numerous shifts to new lighting technology (electronic ballasts,, f8, f6, low pressure sodium to high pressure sodium, and finally to LED’s which I have in 1999 f50) my advice is buy from a company that you have heard of (Philips, GE, Sylvania etc) yes they’re more expensive but they will probably last longer. Good luck!
Sylvania LED’s are very nice and high quality
@@ElantraFukkenGang Just replaced my 8 year old OEM halogen bulbs in my Jeep Wrangler with the Sylvania Silverstar Ultra Halogen H13 bulbs and that made a little difference. Now my next task is replacing the headlight itself as these are the originals and the clear lens has fogged over to the point of no return.I wasn't expecting a significant improvement in illumination since I am staying with halogen but some improvement will be gained with clear, not cloudy, headlight lenses.
I've never had an LED interior light go bad. I'm still running LEDs I've installed over 10 years ago. One thing to watch on custom LED lights is sometimes with pairs of LEDs, the instructions tell you to put it on the wrong side and it won't fit there!
this guy is confused about what a halogen bulb is. Dude, get your facts straight before trying to teach others!
he does this in all his videos. Got you to post a comment, see the point of it? misstate and the experts get irritated. Brilliant tactic for engagement if you ask me.
I'm only a minute in and I am down in these comments b/c I can't believe this guy is this dumb.
but....I guess he is.
Could have gotten them mixed up. It can happen all the time
@@johndough23
True, but I'm tired of the tactic, and its still very irritating.
@@davidbostock6089 In the abstract this is what GOOD parents do with their kids. Its what good managers do with their staff. Confrontational management. Point is challenge one to engage. In doing so they become better people. The everybody wins a trophy mentality leads to soft spoiled brat people. There are no safe space in the real world. That's a GOOD thing.
Man, As an electronics engineer, I can tell that not only the failure is related to heat sinks, but also they need high voltage spike protection. A car is a noisy environment, specially from the ignition coils, great LED Build design involves voltage clamping. Modern cars which have LEDs considered in their design incorporate those voltage clamps, but older cars (30 year old cars) don't.
what kills most aftermarket LEDs are voltage spikes from the ignition coils, not the heat dissipation.
My car came with LED tail lights and DRLs/sidelights and rear LED fog light as standard, my upgrade to LED front fog lights, LED number plate bulbs, reverse light and LED Brake lights and LED side and rear indicators and headlights have all been fine. The only halogen bulbs left on my car are the front indicators as upgrading them caused hyperflash.
You just need to add load resistors to fix the hyper flash. They are easy to find.
What's the solution 4: that problem?
I was asking the guy who mentioned the problem with heat sink/ ignition coils.
as a certified clown i can tell you your juggling is substandard
I missed the reason why "You NEVER INSTALL LEDs IN YOUR CAR OR TRUCK!!?
True. I thought the same. In my experience, LEDs make a high frequency feedback that interferes with radio reception. Especially weaker AM and FM stations.
@@HamiltonSRink Only the ones that use a DC buck converter to limit current do that RF noise. a transistor or resistor on it's own will dissipate some heat but not create any RF noise.
@@therealromster Ok, fine. As a consumer, how does one tell the difference? Are the products marked somehow?
I missed the discussion about LED tail lights that trigger the fault switch indicating a non functioning light.
On my bike, I had to install a converter to let the bike know the lights are working.
I was told at the auto parts shop that wasn’t necessary, so I dumped good money into purchasing taillight LEDs in my 2013 RAM truck.
Almost immediately to fault switch was triggered.
Back to halogen.
I’d like to know the fix to this problem.
@@kenflauding6041 In future, the electrical engineers who design automobile electrical systems, will incorporate LED's properly. Until then, my personal vehicles will be using OEM type bulbs.
Now if you happen to be a qualified electrical engineer, you most likely know what is required.
I for one don't enjoy being blinded by oncoming traffic when these bright lights are aimed too high.
A problem I see is the manufacturers are now in an "arms race" as to who has the most intense headlights, along with signals that are too close to the headlights so you can't tell if the cars turning until its right on top of you!
I hate driving at night because a lot of vehicles lights behind me are so obnoxiously bright . I literally have to adjust all my mirrors down because its blinding.
I have to pull over on side streets with oncoming pickup trucks I'm literally blinded
@The Arch1tect
So true
I sometime think that I should replace my rear window glass to mirror
Tailgater repellent:
Run you mirrors down and out. Then adjust the ratchets to shine the light straight behind. When you get a blinder, just run your mirrors thbthis position and let him see his own lights.
Has worked for 30 yrs 👍🔔😱
I am glad I am not the only one complaining about headlights.I thought it just might be because I am in my 60's, These lights are dangerous to oncoming traffic and also blinding in rear view mirrors. This industry needs to be studied and standardized.
These TH-camrs are the one's you hit the "don't recommend this channel" on
Gladly
There are a lot of considerations that weren't mentioned in the video.
Most older lamp housings were designed for bulbs with a very specific light source location and directivity, with a reflector and lens designed to create a very carefully considered dispersion and light output pattern. LED replacements rarely come close to matching the light source location of the bulbs they are replacing, so you get hot spotting and poor light output even if the bulb is nominally brighter. We've all seen this when people put in LED bulbs in their brake lights, resulting in a small red dot in the center of the lens area, instead of bouncing off the reflector and lighting up the entire brake light area. The problem can be especially bad with LED headlight bulb replacements, often resulting in a dangerous beam pattern with poor road illumination and glare for oncoming drivers. It can even affect interior lights, with high glare blueish light and poor dispersion to light up the interior. Blueish "cool" interior lighting may look "fresh" and "new", but it also can cause increased eyestrain and fatigue. At one time you could also find "warm white" LED bulbs with around 3000K color temperature, but these seem to have become increasingly scarce.
Your comment is worth more than the video. Thank you.
Agreed about the brake and front lights, it's a matter that should be tested before going on the road, although inside lights are not that often used therefore I see no problem switching them, my original halogen inner lights are rather fade so I don't think it could be worse at all.
I'll stick with halogen head light bulbs. Time tested at least. No guarantee how long the led lights gona last ,for any application on the car .head and dip lights also the blinker lights on a smart car for two. Is a nightmare to change. Unless you get the whole front plastic panels of to make easier. Then that also takes time to unscrew the whole front panel .which is all in one .
100% agree. good comment. I used to be on the led band wagon. no more. I think it's just a fashion statement and at the same time causing serious glare and safety issues for all the motorists out there. I love my factory toyota projector housings with halogen bulbs aimed correctly. hard to beat in my opinion. Lastly I'll add this to cap off your comment: There is a reason(s) oem's choose a headlight in the 3000-4500 kelvin range. I have yet to see a factory led in that range but factory led headlights have a good non offensive beam pattern from what i've seen.
Good comment. And these LEDs with the high color temperature (bright blue/white) are the worst for glare. Very blinding for oncoming drivers.
There's a reason they call it "soft white", doesn't strain the eyes.
Thanks for the informative video. However, I don't think you were comparing LEDs to "halogen" bulbs. Bulbs you' were replacing are "tungsten" (filaments, that is) or, otherwise known as "incandescent" bulbs. Halogen bulbs do have high draw (amperage), and do have very high heat output, but also tend ro have very bright, "white" color output, like the LEDs you're comparing. Halogen bulbs are only used by auto manufacturers in headlights (they run way to hot to be safely used in other vehicle locations).
See my previous post.
way too hot to.......
Some truck drivers living in areas with snowy winter had regret switching to LED lights for the headlights of their truck. Ice built up on the cover of their headlights so much that they had to park the truck to have the ice removed. With incandescent light bulbs, the heat from the bulbs can prevent ice from building up on the cover of the headlights.
@@simon6071 their a reason why they made a yellow led bulb
@@urielhernandez3286 It doesn't matter if the color of the LED bulb for vehicles are white or yellow, the headlights are still more likely to be covered in ice than headlights with incandescent bulbs because LEDs are more energy efficient, i.e. release much less heat than incandescent bulbs, no matter they give out white or yellow light. GOOGLE: LED Headlights are dangerous in snow/ice storm
Some people suggested spraying the LED headlights with cooking spray, Fabulous PB Blaster or WD-40 before you head out in a snowstorm. Even if it works, I think it's too much hassle..
I am still trying to understand why I should never install led lamps in my car!
I'm still wondering... Did I miss something?
@@stevenleber1485 there is no reason. This video was a waste of time
Wes Ryan indeed! Cheap led lamps is the only reason.
Sometimes, error codes can come up with LEDs because of the power draw difference.
What I wish the vehicles still have now are mechanical flashers, instead of the rate controlled by the BCM (body control moduele). Just replace the flasher with a LED unit and you're set.
Now, if you want to use LEDs in the turn signals, you have to add resistors to control the flash rate and in some cases, other areas where an error code come up.
Mount the resistor on the metal surface (plasic will melt if placed there) for heat disipation.
Manufacturers should've left that alone.
...Because it looks like a waste of time and money to me...and you might end up breaking things and buying bulbs more than once and replacing ones that don't need replacing. Find a better use of your time and money.
Wait. I’ve watched 5 minutes and all I’ve learned is LED bulbs are better. Never use LEDs, eh? Sheesh.
Yep. Got us all to watch though.
yeah stupid title
The only reason not to is a slightly common issue with turn signal bulbs not drawing enough power to make the blinker circuit work right in older cars.
Clickbaity title
He said "Do not use LEDs without heat sink for heat dissipation"
Good info. And understand LEDs are not great for replacement in a headlamp, not designed for LED assembly, since they throw out light differently than an incandescent. Most headlamps are reflective so although an LED will be whiter; brighter the light will not go out as far since most of are not designed to be used in a deflector housing. Projectors a different story.
As for heat...yes LEDs can get hot. Most LED headlamp assemblies equipped as OEM on a vehicle have small fan assemblies in the back or a heavy duty head sink.
Some LED replacement assemblies will have small fans. Some are designed for reflective housings; most are not.
And when using for turn signals, you might need a resistor for each bulb or you will get hyper flash.
Exactly! Vehicle manufacturers design the luminary assembly (headlights, brake, side markers, fog lights, etc.) for a specific bulb type. Replacing those incandescents in your vehicle with LEDs could cause poor results. (Brightness is only one criterion. The way the bulb illuminates in the direction intended by the vehicle’s designers, at the proper level of illumination is a totally different, yet not an unimportant, matter.)
You're calling an incandescent bulb a halogen, and I'm supposed to take you seriously? You tube is full of misinformants. Get your story straight.
🔵FYI,.... A halogen bulb is a TYPE of "Filament" bulb, if you look in it you can even SEE the filament!
@@joshhayl7459 But none of the filament bulbs in this video were filled with halogen gas, nor made of quartz glass. NONE of them were "halogen" bulbs.
@Manolis Gledsodakis ,
🔵 All that you have said is true!.......
but you missed my point entirely.
The statement that I was addressing was
The one made by 'Neil Anderthal', which was:
"You're calling an incandescent bulb a halogen, and I'm supposed to take you seriously? ".◻
What I was trying to get across to him was that: Incandescent Bulbs=Filament Bulbs,
Halogen Bulbs are Filament Bulbs,
therefore;
Halogen Bulbs ARE "Incandescent Bulbs"!!
@@manolisgledsodakis873 p,
Not that we're supporting any side, but the creator of this repeatedly stated that he was not claiming to be an expert on the subject matter, but sharing his realtime experience with led lights.
I personally like having a cold white LED bulb in the center dome light while keeping the two reading lights intact as incandescents. Depending on how fast I'm going to get back to driving at night, I can pick whether I want a dim-as-poop, pleasantly warm light, or the bright and effective blueish light that fills the entire interior.
Managing the duration of night blindness like this is quite useful to me and it allows me to have the best of both worlds too.
Well thought out. Thanks
The “whiter” light is better for viewing, so you’d think the reading lights would benefit most.
You can get warm leds too and they’re slighter dimmer because of a layer that is placed above the chip
@@WM22 Agreed, according to Purkinje effect the higher the CCT the brighter it should be so for those lights 3200k high CRI and r9 should be better for preserving night vision and distance vision.
I just bought red or green ones like hunters use on their flashlights, I saw them at Scheels, inquired, and this is what they are used for, to see well while hunting with rifles and other boom sticks. They don't destroy all those rods and cones within our ocular blobbage we need alive and well and available on weekends to rent for kiddos bday parties. But really I tried it and if you just don't touch up the makeup according to their standpoint you'll be doing great and looking much sharper than sharper image using them. I used them for constant map queries while working to deliver food at night for Jimmy John's I never got the dreaded visual impasse but I still have handy immunity to iocane powder whilst delivering in the evenings for JJ's. I had a point amongst the words somewhere here..... SQUIRREL
Some LEDs like headlamp LEDs come with heat sinks and even cooling fans built in.
I bought some on amazon. They work fine, fans included :)
Oh LAMP ! NO "BULB" eh?
All he is saying people us that the cheap Chinese LED'S design has flaws like most chinese knockoffs.
Solid state LED will not overheat but the LEDs itself will not overheat or has any heat
@@charletonzimmerman4205 Bulbs are things you plant in the ground to grow stuff, Lamps are things that give light when energized by chemical reaction or electrical discharge. LOL TTFN.
@@uksuperrascal Then ,WHY ? I plant my BURNT-OUT, Incandescent "LIGHT" BULBS" in the EARTH, I don't get replacement ONES?
A factor in choosing them should also be to avoid using so called CANBUS compatible lamps where you don't need them. In order to not trigger fault detection in modern cars they have a surface mount resistor on the circuit board to simulate the load of a lamp. This is the source of a lot of the heat and often uses more power than the LEDs themselves. For interior lights that are not subject to CANBUS lamp testing you are better to use types without the load resistor (or you can remove it). I will not repeat the correct comments pointing out that not all filament lamps are halogen.
I had the same problem when I replaced all the interior lights in my CamperVan.They were slightly longer in size,so stretched the contacts to make them fit.Excellent lighting now almost like day light with 12 volts.LEDs are certainly the best,
You got a downvote from me for click-baiting.
Ditto
I'm not going to downvote him, I'm just not going to listen or do business with him. Clowns have a hard time of getting me to give them money.
Same! And I gave you a thumbs up!
Same here.👎🏻
Gee ax - same here, but gave you a 👍
Those applications in this video clip are interior lighting. In most circumstances those light ing devices (LEDs) may not be on for a significant time (eg. minutes), and overheat issue may not be big concerns .
changed out the interior lights on my vehicle years ago. Also, swapped out my backup lights. No problems. I guess I got lucky and bought the right ones. It clearly made a huge difference in the plus column. I recommend them
Follow up video: I learn what incandescent lights are.
Incandescent mean so hot it glows. That's why incandescent bulbs are so inefficient. Most of their energy is going out as heat. LED's (of the sort used in car/home lighting) produce a narrow spectrum of very bluish light and a little waste heat. The yellow you see is actually coating of various phosphors that absorb that light and re-emit it across the whole visible spectrum tweaked to some white point (i.e. 'daylight' or 'warm white', etc.) somewhere between 2700k and 6000k in most cases.
My experiences have been varied. Most of the festoon style bulbs have had heat sinks, but the failures I've had have been a result of the lead free solder failing. Lead has superior uses.
I paid less than $20 total for (2) pair of Ebay LED's... One pair of 3000K amber fog lights and one pair of 6000k (4) sided LED headlights. It's been (5) years now and they still work and look great on my 2015 Sierra. I have absolutely no complaints. It was an inexpensive solution that greatly exceeded my expectations.
Cool! Would you happen to know the Brand of LEDs you bought from eBay?
It's interesting that heat is the problem. LED bulbs are supposed to burn cooler.
Fun fact: basic incandescent lamps are 90% heat and 10% light.
You are absolutely correct and I think it's actually 92% heat!
Fun Fact: a regular incandescent dome light can drain your battery overnight, especially during winter.
@@johnmccormick8159 exactly. I left my LED headlamps (yes the actual headlamps) on by accident for the day and the car still started at the end of the day.
Couldn't do that if they were incandescent globes.
True. But if the lamp has a reflector, 80% of the heat is radiated infrared out of the lamp. The LED heat isn't radiated because the heat comes from the electronics and LED chip and not from the LED light itself, so finally the LED gets much hotter than the old bulb.
@@SpeedFlap Is your point that if we could see infrared, the incandescent could be considered much more efficient? 😀😀😀 Totally agree with the rest of your post. 👍👍👍
On other thing to consider is that the LEDs are most often not placed correctly on the bulb to be used in an old halogen-type DRL or other external light. The reflectors are designed with assumption that the filaments are in certain positions. LEDs that are not placed in similarly exact position will cause light to go in all different directions that it's not supposed to go in an old reflector, and will blind other drivers.
sometimes blinding someone is better than people pulling infront of you because your lights arent bright enough. ive had to drive with my brights running 24/7 to avoid these distracted Asian drivers
My car had halogens from factory but in a projector housing, cheap China LEDs were washed out rubbish but the Philips aftermarket ones I used gave the exact same pattern just brighter and better colour.
The only problem i have with replacing my stock car bulbs with leds is hyperflashing, where i just learned that it can be fixed by updating the flasher relay module.
I installed LED stop and tail lights on my 2018 Sonata and the work fine. Far better than the incandescent stock bulbs.
One thing to note is that the bluer color temp and brighter lighting will affect your night vision adversely. Personally, I try to use warmer LEDs (2800-3000k) rather than cool white or daylight. Also, I prefer not to have super bright interior lights other than maybe the cargo area. IMHO, it just blinds you when it's pitch black out, but it's really just personal preference.
Exactly. I have LED reverse lights and I still need to get LED cargo ones. My reverse lights are by Luminex by DieselLEDS and they have a great heat sink. As far as headlights I only use HID so I don’t blind oncoming traffic.
@@c7t1consulting87 After 6 months, nobody has flashed their headlights at me for having too bright of headlights unless I forgot to dim them.
It hasn't caused me any problems.
Eh?
@@genericdude6551 Me neither, that's why I don't get it. How can brighter light adversely affect your night vision? The whole point is to be able to see more clearly, hence you fit a brighter light.
So then, why do we never want to install LED’s in our car or truck?
Guy makes a video on why you should NEVER install LED's IN YOUR CAR OR TRUCK...then proceeds to change several lights in his vehicle to LED's.
I have no issues with LED's by any means, and the less draw on power is certainly a wonderful reason to get them. My personal preference is to run incandescents simply because the light feels a lot more friendly and less harsh than LED counterparts
There are less harsher LEDs, they're usually marketed as "warm white" or "golden white" bulbs so you'd have to look out for those. I love LEDs in general but cannot STAND the Bright White LEDs like the ones used in this video. Warm White/Golden White LEDs have a more sunlight-hued brightness as opposed to the cold, clinical look of the Bright White LEDs.
@@metroredline might have to look into that!
Meh, drawing less power is one of the last possible reasons to get them for automotive interior use because you will never notice the difference. The infinitesimal difference in the load on the alternator (pertaining to engine efficiency and thus fuel economy) to make a few mA more current for the brief moments you have those interior lights on, is less than the difference in fuel economy from farting towards the rear while driving.
You might think I'm kidding but it's really not measurable as a statistically significant % of fuel consumption over the entire operation cycle of the vehicle.
Now if you were instead talking about an amp or more mains AC current for your home light bulbs on several hours a day, then things change completely, makes the power savings of LED over incandescent quite worthwhile. If you prefer warmer color temperature light, there are both vehicle and home lighting options that aren't such a cold color temp.
Something I learned about installing LED lamps...they can't be mixed on the same parallel load circuit with incandescent bulbs. If you try, they will not light or only light very dimly and quickly overheat and fail. The resistance of the incandescent bulbs creates a current droop that will kill some LED array lamps.
Why are you installing LEDS when the title says why you never install LEDS?
to get engagement and posts from people like you lol.
@@johndough23 Moronic
Yet we're all here, aren't we?
I completely rebulbed my van lights including the running lights and headlights to LEDs and I have been nothing but totally satisfied with how well they have worked in my van. Much brighter lights and much less power draw.
And blinding everyone else on the road.
Leds and the losers that cant see on the road at night without them are a danger to others.
@@abyssmanur3965 Normally, I would agree. I always hated the guys with floodlights coming at me at night.. However, my issue is that in my truck, there is no incandescent bulb that is bright enough for my personal standard of acceptable brightness. I would travel with my brights on and no-one would even notice the brightness of them. Usually, if you have your brights on, people would be constantly flashing you to turn them off. That doesn't happen to me.. I found some great leds on Amazon that are brighter than the incandescents, but not too bright and I am very satisfied with the results...
I pulled the trigger on a set of LEDs off a Facebook ad for my 01 Xterra about 7 years ago. Yeah yeah, back then, there were actual legit ads on Facebook. They were well under $100 for the set, they have a heat sink as well as a fan all built in. They are still going strong today.
I've read enough comments to know that the two items I was going to bust you for have been fairly well hammered home, those being Halogen vs incandescent, and the the fact that you SHOULD replace your light bulbs with LEDs. I will say this, I like your editing.
I used Vintage Car LEDs for upgrading my 12v headlights in my 1963 VW. Quality lamps. Super performance. Literally like night and day
I installed LEDs (replacement bulb type, not the sheet of LED module) for my brake/tail lights on my 63 Beetle, and you can actually see them in daylight. WONDERFUL safety improvement!
Incandescent bulbs are better during the winter months because of the heat output. It melts the snow when it accumulates on the lens cover. LEDS have very little heat which allows snow to build up.
Very well done review. IMO, if the intent is to replace the incandescent automotive bulbs in your vehicle with LED's, pay a little more and go with a reputable brand (e.g. Sylvania, Phillips, etc). I would steer clear of any off brand LED's. If you are just adding them for accents then that's fine but not for signals and headlights which your life depends on for safe driving. I have been tinkering with LED's for making custom task lighting in my home workshop and from all I read about LED's, heat dissipation is a huge factor in prolonging their life.
I agree that brake and signal lights need to be reputable brands. A friend replaced his combination bulbs that light as a tail light and should light brighter as a stop light when the brake is engaged. The light output between the tail light and the brake light was almost indistinguishable and very difficult for a driver behind him to determine that he was braking.
I have replaced my reversing lights with LED's and what a difference they make. Hadn't thought about doing all the other lights, like map lights and door lights, but I will be . Thanks.
Really enjoyed the video and particularly your clear presentation.
Cheers from Australia.
You never thought about changing the others? Really?
@@gssf.gr29 ...Yeah ! how silly of me, hey ? Actually, I had thought about it, but that was one of those things I put on the "I'm gonna do" list lol. I was wondering though if the fact that the interior light and the map lights come on slow, if that would affect anything, but I suppose I'll soon find out. Thanks for giving me a serve for being slack 🤣
@@steiny3353 Ah no I wasn't having a go, it just seemed odd. Well worth doing, easy upgrade and they make a huge difference. I did the interior, the reverse lights (much brighter when reversing) and put a strip light in the boot to replace the existing one, cheap, 5 minute job and the difference is amazing.
Don't worry too much about the heat problems mentioned in the video, LEDs give out far less heat than the standard bulbs but don't buy the cheap unbranded, they don't last long and do burn out.
@lAcid Rainl ...Is that what that is..I often see on you tube videos where the stop lights are flickering, I've also seen both indicators flashing at the same time too, but that would HAVE to be a problem with hos electrical system. But as you say it's bloody anoying
You revealed to me in your video there are safety and reliability concerns with LED's. On DC Volt LED's I have seen plastic interior parts melt. Thanks for finding the interior lights with heatsinks. Fully agree with your point about temperatures of LED's; yet solutions I found exist for the DIY folks. So I measured 236 deg F on the aluminum heatsink on just one (1) AC powered LED. One time I bought highly You Tube recommended LED Headlamps. But the cheap electronic ballast melted before the LED. Best practice solution I have found to make these last longer without issue is add additional heatsink material. Separately, now there are other big concerns about LED manufactured products of cheap unregulated quality dumped on the unsuspecting market. Let's always advise the buyer beware especially DIY'ers.
The term for what he's spent so much time describing is "Fit for purpose". For high heat lamps that have no heat dissipating ability, air flow is critical. For continuous use lamps, such as markers or headlights, one has to select units designed for that purpose, as they'll take dissipating heat into account in their design.
Otherwise, we get melting and the significant potential for something to short to ground, with a very real risk of fire.
Just buy from a reputable dealer. The only outfit I buy my bulbs from has a 2 year warranty on their LED headlight bulbs and 3 years for the rest of the lineup.
He neglects to mention that the LED´s are polarity sensitive.
Unless they have an integrated bridge rectifier.
@@jayherde0 that is true, but I don't think many if any do. He also claims they don't last as long. They will last longer if the lamp doesn't fail from water egress of overheating, which has been my experience.
and suck...
Not all are, the new ones aren't polarity sensitive. But yes many still are
8:58 this gave me PTSD to when my bus driver would pull the bus up to school and turn on the dome lights at 7 in the morning
I'd rewrite the head: How to research and install LEDs in your car or truck. (Your content does a 180 from "never" to "often should.") As for brand research, peer reviews on e-commerce sites aren't any more reliable than, say, TH-cam videos.
seems to be this guys M\0 ... bait and switch .... he purposely writes his header to make you click because you wonder "why not"..... he did a video on why to trash your CB.... all he did was swap one out....
Thank you for the head's up......I didn't get that far.....Way too ugly to watch. I thought I'd tuned in to some Freddy Krueger commercial........This guy's full of mushrooms.
I learned about this when those cree leds started being mass manufactured. I bought a few cheap flashlights and was amazed at how bright they were for being a $10 light. Well there's a downside, the lack of heat dissipation. I learned my lesson with those, ya can't cheap out on leds because they get super, super hot.
An LED has almost zero resistance and would burn out instantly when voltage was applied. As a result, a series resistor is fitted, but being in the cap, cooling is a major problem. The TOTAL heat is far less, but it's location is the problem. Modern bulbs are now limiting the current electronically, but they are still in their infancy.
Hopefully, by the time manufacturers such as Bosch start producing bulbs, the early problems will have been resolved.
Some replacement or OE light fittings have the electronics away from the bulbs and mounted on a heat sync. These will probably de the future, with a 15,000 hour design life coupled with low current.
LED street lighting is suffering the same problems.
@@wilsjane Electronic current control should be well beyond infancy by now. The really cheap bulbs don’t use that method because it adds to the cost.
Maybe they’re overdoing the brightness. Maybe some of the extremely cheap ones are overdriving the LEDs. The fairly cheap ones we have have lasted years. But they never feel hot, even after being on for hours.
~ Road 1 ~ “the real reason you should never put gas in your car” Video = puts gas in his car
I watched many TH-cam for educational purposes, I have to mention some people are naturally gifted to teach. It can be many factors the speed of speech, voice tone, and where to emphasize. I am admiring every time when I watch your video. Such a talent I would like to aquire one day, excellent video. 😊 Thanks.
I've switched from incandescent to LED's in all my instrument lights on my two 77 Cougar wagons, and also on all the turn signal lights front and rear. One important thing you may need to know, is that the some LED's are polarity sensitive. If the bulb doesn't work, reverse the bulb in the socket and it may work. Turn signal bulbs have the polarity fixed in the socket.
Instrument light sockets are what I'm referring to, so be sure to check to see if they work before you reassemble your instrument panel, i.e. try reversing the bulb in the socket if it doesn't light up. I prefer high intensity LED's in the instrument panel. These are more expensive. I had to drill out the holes to a larger diameter to fit the LED's through the holes they go in. I also had to remove the blue tinted lens covers in the instrument panel to get the bulbs to fit. The LED's do a better job of lighting up the instrument panels on my Cougar wagons. I purchased Sylvania LED's from Advanced Auto Parts. I have had no problem with any of these bulbs burning out or over heating anything.
I put them in my 1980 Mercury Capri (Foxbody) instrument panel because stock 192's are just dim in that cluster. I dont get to dim the LEDs but its alot safer now I can see!
-77 Cougar wagon(s), huh? You mentioning that to create some form of statement? Otherwise come off as a bit of a weirdo, who's out of the normal loop.
You missed one really important thing, LED's must be installed with the right polarity! Bulbs doesn't care about polarity (+- from battery).
I've got LED bulbs with a power chip on them so polarity is no longer an issue.
I prefer the 'warm' color temperature LED light. I think the 'cooler' color temperature LED produces a harsh blueish light.
Absolutely! Thanks Frank!
Frank Bartlett Me too.
Daylight is the way to go for me. 5000K
LED lights damage your eyes.
That blue tint is the easiest to manufacture. Getting other color temperatures require special filters that make the LED more expensive and reduce the lumin output a bit too.
I changed my 2013 Ram in 2016 with all LED lights. Put switch back in my directionals on front. All my lights on the front are bright day light except when the directional come on, it switches to amber while blinking and back to white when it stops. Did interior, front and rear all LED .Even did my plow lights led. Bought all from the same company with outstanding reviews. Never had to change another bulb on my truck since. Bought LED tow mirrors also. Change the light configuration for all my lights with the ALGFA OBD from standard to LED. Never had a problem with codes or anything. Draws less power from the battery and alternator.
Bait click title. I expected reasons “to never install on [my] vehicle” but it was all about finding the right LEDs and how “awesome” they look. Cheap advertising gimmicks that leave me feeling like a fishhook stuck in my jaw...
It should say, "Buy LED's through my amazon links".
I installed LED lights in the reverse light sockets on my 2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue a few years ago and still bright as ever and you can see my car backing up a mile away. The headlights require an integrated circuit and fans to keep the LED headlights from burning out. Plus, some LEDs are off-road only.
Retro PC User leds aren’t for off road use only. If they are DOT approved then they are road worthy.
I did the same thing in my Altima. World of difference.
@@jacobstienecker Well, IF you LOOK at the end of his sentence he did say and I quote, "SOME LEDS ARE OFF ROAD ONLY." HA! DOT Approved! I could care less if they are DOT approved or not. Number 1, they are not going to check to see if the lights are approved or not, unless you end up in a accident killing someone. The only reason so many people bitch about LEDS is because 80 % of people who do install them, don't realize their headlights were out of adjustment and end up blinding oncoming traffic. The best part is , is that the ones bitching about them getting blinded, Are to stupid to recall what that white Fog-line is for at the right of the lane. Finally number 3. On being DOT qualified my FUCKS were all expired and had to dispose of all of em. No FUCKS TO GIVE ANYMORE especially the way no body dims their brights until they are seemingly under your front bumper. What ever happened to seeing bright lights shining coming over the next hill !and dimming them before seeing the other headlights! Love my 4 Hikari Bulbs and they were the whitest you could get 2 years ago 9005's and 9006's" 2 each up front in a 2002 S10 ZR2, but I didn't like how when I had the brights on GM had them just using the 2 center bulbs as the Highs. I fixed that and now they all 4 go to being lit up on High beams but they are correctly aimed. I think I may have explained no fucks on my part to give out and why people complain, because they are lookin at very bright lights instead of the fog line painted on the road. Last but not least people don't know how to aim their headlights, did you know it's the same procedure on every vehicle and you can find the directions in the owners manual!
Good video. A lot of time when the led light dosnt work at first try it could be because it’s in backwards. Most less have a polarity direction.
Something to be considered is that whilst it’s all fine and dandy to replace inferior lights with LEDs, not all head lights are suitable for LEDs if they have older reflectors designed for conventional bulbs. These reflectors tend to scatter the light from LEDs because the light is produced or projected differently, this can result in headlights that dazzle oncoming traffic when on low beam. Obviously on high beam it doesn’t matter so if you have separate bulbs for high and low beam then you can use conventional bulbs for the low beam and LEDs for the high beam. Otherwise you better check that your headlights are not blinding, dazzling and annoying other drivers before sticking with them.
Wanna remember the assholes on the road that use lights that specifically blind you
I remember being blinded all the time when LEDs were a new thing. Not sure what happened since then, but possibly newer vehicles are designed to accommodate LEDs.
@@deltatango5765 yes newer vehicles that come with LEDs have the correct reflectors to focus them properly without having a dazzling scattered pattern. I have just fitted LEDs in my 2004 Discovery main beam and they’re brilliant (pardon the pun) but I can’t fit them in the dipped beams because they will just blind oncoming motorists.
That is supposed to read “ inferior lights” not “interior” damned unpredictive awful-spell! I can’t edit it now but I guess it doesn’t change the main point. 😎
Have you not heard of LEFs yet?! They’re a new extra bright light called Lumen Extra Frequency! 😆 Apologies, fell foul of unpredictive awful-spell again!! Obviously I meant LEDs 😎
Still waiting for reasons "Why you NEVER install LED's in your car or Truck!!"
I'm wondering it was sarcasm or a gimmick to get us to watch.
Subscribe if you are not already suckas
Ya he got me too, should be DON'T BUY CHEAP LED'S
Also maybe dont pick wrong configuration of LED for the type of projector you are using.
crxdelsolsir he saying be careful about bulb design and heat sink.
Some LED bulbs, like headlight LED bulbs, do come with heatsinks and some even have cooling fans.
I added leds in my cabin light 2 years ago and they are still working and also in my headlights more than 2 years ago.all leds that I have fitted in my car have passed the M.O.T test every year.
LEDs have disadvantages, on the one hand the high unhealthy blue component in the spectrum compared to a conventional light bulb. In addition, seeing more because it is brighter is only true to a limited extent. When buying LEDs, it is essential to pay attention to the color rendering index. Although the light appears brighter, you can see fewer colors. A conventional light bulb still has an unmatched color rendering index
LEDs are an excellent choice for backup lamps, as they run much cooler and use a fraction of the current, causing less wear on the backup light switch in the transmission. They don't work well on rheostat dimmer circuits, though, such as instrument panel lighting and dome lights. To get them to dim as smoothly and over a wide range of brightness as the incandescent bulbs they replace would require some kind of voltage to pulse-width modulation (PWM) module.
LEDs can be dimmable, but you can't just buy the cheapest available. The cheap ones also have problems with the polarity of the connection.
Spending just a liitle more gets you LEDs that are dimmable and are impervious to the polarity of the connection.
@@johnvanlandingham8832 LEDs made fit for purpose can replace normal incandescent bulbs with no problem. Just don't buy the cheapest available, make sure they are appropriate for the application you want to use them for.
Just how long do you spend in reverse...or are you one of those idiots who have to make 90-point turns? To burn out reverse bulbs-Just buy the cheapest crap you can find on eBay or make sure you have a dodgy ground/earth circuit, adding some water helps too!
@@andrewcarroll1867 - Where did you get your electrical engineering degree?
@@Milosz_Ostrow From China LOL
Just make sure they have good heat sinking on the resistor block and/or have enough LED's in series to handle the voltage. The cheap ones typically use fewer LED's.
I've had LEDs installed into my car for 7 years now. Not a single problem
Came to the comments to explain the difference between halogen and incandescent bulbs. I see many others did it for me. Good Job gentlemen.
The biggest mistake I see people make with LEDs as they don't pay attention to the color temperature. I laugh at people that converted their cars over to LED and they have nothing but blue light.
Temp should be 6000k or under. Anything over that starts to get blue. BUT, that still begs the question as to whether or not the rating on these cheap bulbs is actually true... 🤷♂️
@@1RoadGarage I prefer anything under 5K but 4K preferably.
I like 5500k at the highest.... 3000k for fogs...
Hear, hear! If you want incandesent "yellow" look for 3000k color temp, 4000k is a nice white, 5000k and up starts looking too "blue" to me. FYI, higher color temp DOES NOT mean brighter light.
@James M...... even back with colored halogen bulbs....then HIDs....bulbs that put out an obvious blue light are freaking ridiculous and is the worst color of the spectrum to use....for lights... LMFAO....
Instrument dome and marker lamps are not halogen lamps.
You beat me to it...good one👍
@@TomAlter1000 they are tungsten in a vacuum and halogen is tungsten in halogen gas.
@@duaneantor9157 Tungsten is the filament, true Halogen is a gas but what he's showing opposed to LED is a standard 'Incandescent' bulb which has NO gas other than Air in a vacuum.
@@AThomasGrogan I know that and have commented on such. Air in a vacuum? How does that work?
@@duaneantor9157 Oops, I miss read, thought you were saying 'Halogen was Tungsten'. Air in a Vacuum? yes,.. it's true,.. there is no degree of vacuum that will rid any volume of area completely of Air, unless there is no volume. In the case of a bulb you have a filament the presiding in the center of the bulb. (hence you have volume and gas (Air)) **Even if it is a vacuum)
Here are a lot more considerations when replacing bulbs in a vehicle than a house.
1. Headlight lens and reflector design are driven by the location and distribution of the light source is. LED light sources are nowhere near the same location and distribution as factory. The LED bulb, even if brighter, is not an indicator of its effectiveness. Many designer lights sold today range that your eye either can't use, or are much less stimulated by.
2. The more red the light, the less it bleaches out your rhodopsin, the better for your night vision. This is why cockpit lighting is red. White, which is the blue end, does the opposite.
3. Bright means you can't see out of your windows at night when you turn the light on. Your interior lighting will last forever anyway because the computer turns them on and off slowly.
4. Sensors depend on current flow to determine when bulbs are burned out and can tell you they are burned out when they are not.
5. You need to make sure the LEDs will actually fit where you plan to use them. That often comes into play with the exterior lighting housings.
6. There are a lot of dependencies in a modern vehicle. Some learn that their radio controls many unrelated things which 3rd party radio vendors sell expensive boxes that go inline to your 3rd party radio to duplicate the functionality previously provided by the OEM radio. An example would be control of interior lighting.
Unlike a house, LED retros in a vehicle have a lot less to offer, and a lot more that can make them detractors.
I changed all the dash and other bulbs in my f350 with LEDs. All but the headlamps. I love it. The flasher relay was upgraded to accommodate the lower current of the LEDs. Sometimes with the dash lights polarity is important. If in doubt look for the little + sign and put them in all the same way, then test before putting everything back together, all lit, you are good, no lights, swap them around.
Have fun, be safe
I actually like the softer and warmer light of halogen for the interior. And for the headlights, LEDs blind other drivers, maybe with the exception of Philips and Osram original bulbs. But you have other disadvantage with them, you'd have to remove the rubber dust caps and your headlights will fill up with dirt! If you don't remove them the bulb will overheat and there you go your 80+ USD....
And that's why you don't buy cheap led lights... Good quality led bulbs don't have any of those issues.
Yes, I"m fed up with getting blinded from oncoming bulb swappers.
@@ivanhoe6366 the major cause is that the LED module isn’t located in the same position the halogen filament is. Therefore changing the focus, spread and aim that the parabolic reflector is designed for.
@@whatsstefon I think "some" of the original equipment led lights are also too bright for oncoming traffic. Is it only me that thinks this? Not sure if my eyes are just more sensitive to it since turning 50.
Same. 15 years ago, I love the look of white HID lights. Now I prefer a warmer looking light, not as yellow as halogen but definately not as white as LED's. It feels like a could see better with a warmer light than just pure white light.
I installed super bright LEDS into my turn signals, brake lights, reverse, and side marker lights. I'm not having issues in my truck, I also installed LEDs into my interior lights and my puddle lamps as well. If you get HF noise you could easily install a inline noise filter into the power line to the radio.
H7 format LEDs worked well in my bike headlights. The two light emitters were about the same size and location as the original filament coil.
The snag was the light output overpowered the reflectors making the dip beam cut-off sit too high. I can’t believe that’s not unsolvable but the bulbs I bought were not correctly focussed.
H7 is notorious for being easy to install incorrectly. Installing them incorrectly will bother oncoming traffic. Are you sure that's not what has happened?
Reflectors don't change properties (light pattern) in any way relating to light intensity. This misunderstands what light is, and how it moves and reflects. A moved cutoff means the light source IS differently located in the new bulbs.
Totally solvable. Put the right bulb in the housing it was ment for.
Bulbs don't focus light--reflectors or projector lenses do the focusing. If your reflector wasn't designed with your *specific* bulb in mind, the problem you mentioned will be commonplace and you won't get the intended end result of proper illumination.
Replaced all of the lights (that I could) on my MINI Cooper S about 4 years ago with LEDs. Only had one burn out. I have a light error pop up every once in a while but they all work fine
Cool.. I've been slowly replacing all of mine on the FJ.. First was the domes and the reverse lights. So nice being able to see backing up. So far I've had great results going through Diode Dynamics. I like their knowledge, Build quality, and the multiple options they give you depending how bright you want, color and how much you want to spend.
Thanks! Ill check diode dynamics out
I'm looking for H3 led fog lights for my GX470. 3000K would be good.
@@EdwinMactalMusicI changed everything except the headlights and 3rd brake light on my 2006 Acura RSX with LEDs from Diode Dynamics. Fantastic output. A little pricey, but bright red tail lights help keep the big guys away
@@pmrich6805 Would they have bulbs that fit older cars like a 99 Toyota Camry?
In Northern climates the biggest issue with LED bulbs is their lack of heat. Sure they do produce a fair bit in the plug in part but not much goes towards the lense of the head or tail lights. This becomes a problem during winter as halogen or HID headlamps will melt off the sticky type snow you get right around zero degrees c , LED lights won't. This causes serious reduction in headlight brightness and can make a vehicle ahead of you invisible when you can't see the covered taillights.
Good to know thanks !
FYI, if you buy a good quality LED light, it will last WAAAAY longer than incandescent or halogen! I put LEDs in my VW, for all exterior lighting, 12 years ago and they are still going strong, with no diminished output yet.
Much like a garbage incandescent can fail. The only difference is that LED is more susceptible to poor design.
The voltage drops of LED’s in the majority of vehicles safe to say should not cause any issues other than some versions and vehicles possibly bringing up error codes because it detects a voltage difference etc, it’s negligible and most good LED’s on the market usually are made to not throw codes, but it depends on the vehicle, they typically offer much better illumination too, usually it’s the super cheap Chinese LED’s that go faulty, make sure to buy them from a certified brand that has warranty.
@Star Pillars This comment right here. This is why I've only bought LED bulbs for my vehicles and my friends, from the same outfit since 2007. From headlight to taillight, and interior..all have been great LED replacements. I did have a pair of 194 LED wedge bulbs go out, but they replaced them.
I pimped my 03 Buick LeSabre with all LED replacements everywhere and now I can't keep the babes off of me. I just bought cheap ones in quantity and hoped for the best. So far, I am the Mac Daddy of LEDs. I even got blue ones for the interior and dude, it is whack.
I did the same to my Buick. I just got standard white LEDs for the interior though. Big improvement though!
So WHY dont you ever install LEDs in your car....you never said!
I've replaced ALL my light bulbs in my home to LED..I've noticed a drop in my electric bill
I've noticed an improvement in being able to see. And 5000k is glorious.
Steve same here since I bought the house and also we did the church too there bill was somewhere in the 300 plus change bill came down to like 200 plus
I tried the cheap led and kept popping the fuse. I bought next the sylvania LEDs sold at Walmart and these are the same ones I put in my Chevy pick up, worked and still working flawless, not popping the fuses. I’d say it’s definitely worth the extra money for the sylvania’s.
One good point to think about is the fact that the light housing is made to collect the light and focus it at a certain point and an LED might not be pointing in the right direction. it can't take all of the LEDs light and combined it to focus it in the proper direction
The ones I have seen so far, at least for my vehicle, are the diodes are on the sides of the stick, so theres no issue of it not hitting the proper reflectors. Plus my low beams (which seems to be standard now) has a dome lense in front of the LED, so even if it were a straight on light, the dome would probably still spread the light anyways
That is why you only buy LED head lamps that only have two Diodes, one on each side and they are usually aim able in that configuration. By that I mean the light comes out of the locking ring so you can position the 2 diodes so they face the reflectors inside the housing. Hikaris are known for this.
Good points. I learned quickly that just because they fit, doesn't mean it's the correct bulb. Like head and tail lights. The existing factory lamp is designed to work with parabolic reflectors and sometimes frenal lens . Make sure the focal length and light pattern match the original. You might get too much of a flood or too much of a spot pattern.
You mean Fresnel lenses? It's pronounced fray-nel, because the guy was French.
Nice video. Thanks!
I replaced all the lights in my home with LEDs, and I'm mostly happy, except for one thing: I replaced 12, 4-foot fluorescents with the type that still require the ballasts. Big mistake!
My new LEDs still hum and buzz, because of the old ballasts, which sucks.
It is so easy to simply bypass the ballasts, throw them away, and install a ballast-free LED tube!
Now I'm getting ready to tackle my car. Your video will be a great help.
Again, thanks!
The worst part or those is that the ballast is still energized. That draws power that completely undermines the point of switching to LED! My shop has 212 4 foot fixtures. I love the efficiency once I did it right, plus, haven't changed a single one in over 4 years
On the live cables that goes inside the lamp holder. There is a condensator. If you change the lights with led you must remove the small condensator ore you will draw to much current. That should work
I did a lot of experimenting with putting 4-foot LED tubes in my fluorescent shop fixtures. In the long run it was cheaper and a whole lot less trouble to just scrap all the fixtures and replace them with dedicated LED shop lights. Out of the 30-odd new units I have bought, only one died. It only lasted a few years.
0:50 Note: Not a good idea to handle Halogen or other bright bulbs with bare fingers. The skin oils get a film on the bulb that shortens it's life. Whatever kind of bulb it is, the packaging should have that caution on it if it is a factor.
Yup , doesn't know products , should have never made that vid .
Been running l. E. D's for long time and haven't had to replace any
Some of mine are starting to flicker and one by one they are going in the junk.
You sir are a liar. If you are using IED's you would have to replace them after every use. LED'S on the other hand.
Good review. To me the only benefit with LED's is lowered power consumption. I'd rather have the warmer light from incandescent bulbs than the intense cold white of LED's. That brings me back to power consumption and that has almost never mattered with the lighting units I worked with.
You can get warmer-colored LEDs. You aren't restricted to just daylight. If you aren't sure while you're shopping, just look up a lighting temperature guide (for example, 4000K is the more classic "Soft White" yellow-white color, used in most incandescent bulbs, whereas the LEDs in this video are more like 6000/7000K).
As for preferences, ideally, I'd want my regular dome lights to be a soft white, while I'd want my actual _map_ lights to be daylight (since you can see in greater detail at that color temp, which is important for reading a map; on the other hand, though, who uses paper maps, these days?).
@@NaruSanavai I had a 04 expedition and I replaced all the interior lights with some soft ice blue lights. They were bright but didn't over power with brightness if you know what I mean. Made eating lunch on night shift easier. But I had some bright bright ice blues in the vanity mirrors. Wouldn't blind you with indirect view but would illuminate your face to spot anything. My bulbs also had aluminum head sinks on the back.
I am adding LED “recessed”, type lighting as part of a renovation. They all have a switch to select five different Kelvin settings from 2700k to 5000k. I use the lower Kelvin settings in places like bedrooms for a warmer light, and higher k settings for places like the fitness center. The same fixture can be adjusted to meet all the needs.
@@almccallie4314 It's good to read that these lights have worked out for you and that you're pleased with them.
It's been a year since I posted my comment. I'm currently finishing off the interior of my garage. In other words, transitioning from its original state of bare stud walls to making it like a finished room with sheetrock walls, a ceiling and paint.
My electrician suggested the very same recessed lights that you described. When he first mentioned for me to consider installing these, I thought, ehh, having in mind that cold stark light. But he described how they can be set for different kelvins and that they're dimmable, so I decided to try them. What pushed me to go forward with these was due to the number of lights I wanted out there, sixteen. I'll be having him set all of them to the lowest kelvin and live with them. I may like the light they produce, but I'm expecting that they'll need replacing every few years. My experience with the LEDs that look like a regular light bulb, in the recessed fixtures in my kitchen, has been that after a few years they grow dim and become useless.
@@discerningmind when I first started putting these in, I had no idea they were adjustable. They were set on the highest Kelvin and the space looked like an operating room. I quickly learned to select the k setting before installation. As for the life…I think they are supposed to last several thousand hours. I’ve had some of them in over two years now and they look great. I may be wrong about the life though.
Your post shows how important lighting really is. Thank you and best of luck with your projects.
You use the term halogen for a lot of the incandescent lights in your vehicle.
Same diff
@@1RoadGarage no they are not. Holagen is different then incandescent.
Each use different gas to make them emit light.
@@1RoadGarage Not the same. A halogen bulb is an incandescent bulb where the filament is surrounded by halogen gas. All halogen bulbs are incandescent; not all incandescent bulbs are halogen.
@@bobdodge3171 Both a standard incandescent and a halogen incandescent use electricity to make them emit light. The halogen bulb surrounds the filament with halogen that protects it and may let it burn hotter (and emit more light) while maintaining longevity.
@@bobdodge3171 both are glass bulbs, filled with inert gas, burn a filament, have a warm color temp (2700-3200k), produce most of their energy as heat, have a low life span and look almost exactly the same. So, I said halogen instead of incandescent... not a big deal.
Temu - 48 led assortmented bulbs for $5 - over a year ago and no issue at all I did 3 vehicles Ram Wrangler and Nissan
Here's Why You INSTALL LEDs IN YOUR CAR OR TRUCK!!
You might also hold your hands still when holding small items on close ups
Not all bulbs are HALOGEN, they are usually just incandescent, or tungsten.
Xenon too
Halogen is the gas, tungsten is the filament. So even halogen bulbs are tungsten bulbs.
If you do regular blinker fluid changes it should stop the overheating, in those models you might need and aftermarket blinker fluid reservoir the stock ones are too small