You blow me away with your ability to do everything. But what stands out is your ablility to source ACDelco original parts, then to find speality items like that Snapon adaptor. How did you even know to look for that tool???
Most of these tools were designed by General Motors and sold thru Kent-Moore. They are referenced in the GM service manuals. But often other companies like Snapon will make a similar special purpose tool for much less cost. So you find out in the service manual about special tools that are required.
FYI, that fuel function was only applicable to pre-1996 engines, GM redesigned it and afterwards the oil pressure sender had nothing to do with the lift pump action anymore.
ok I have one for u I have a 96 gmc van but it's the old body style with the 6.5 non turbo. but if u look up a 96 they all show the new body style called the Express and they came turbo diesel. so my ? is how doin know if my lift pump is driven off the ops?
@@karterguy1 That 96 would be a "G" model van if that helps on parts searches. This OPS circuit change was for "96 and up" but very early builds could be different I suppose. I honestly don't know for certain how you would distinguish such a situation. Certainly on a 96 you should have the lift pump activated and purring along during the wait to start cycle (dash lamp flashing). If you hear it then the LP is likely fine, if you don't hear anything (or feel the buzz vibrations with your fingers on the outside housing) I'd next try powering the LP directly disconnected from the vehicle harness to see if its good.
@@DrShock if this is so, then what exactly is the purpose of switching this part? The only reason I was about to buy one (which i most likely will anyway) was because I seen on other videos that people say, the lift pump is ran off the ops. If that isn't the issue for my 96 (which i can hear buzz when I turn the key) them I'm not sure why I would need a new ops.
@@creeplife2802 There is no point in switching this part unless you're diagnosing an issue with the oil pressure gauge for 1996 and up. It's got nothing at all to do with the lift pump circuit in the later design. But _before_ 1996, yeah it was used by GM as a safety shutoff to kill the lift pump when the oil pressure dropped. This video was about working on an oil pressure gauge not functioning correctly, as mentioned in the video it ended up being the instrument cluster that had to be repaired to correct it. If I did this repair all over again, I would have just pulled the cluster first. ;-)
Had to replace oil pressure switch on my 2000 3500hd 6.5 diesel.i couldn't get a snap-on S6152 tool, but found that a Basin wrench used in plumbing worked well to remove/install the switch. Hope this helps someone
1998 ….. 15 psi fuel pressure at T valve. Fuel present at return line on injector pump. 12 v going to FSS. New PMD relocate, Carter lift pump, Fuel filters, battery, alternator, oil pressure switch, upgraded fuel hose supply to IP. Last ran in current condition 2 day ago for 1 min. Now no crank. Fuel restriction?
I'm assuming this could also be why it may show over 40 psi once started from a cold start and start to show 0 once its at operating temp? I just got a 93 3500 and its been doing that.
Possibly, if you're sure the sender wiring harness isn't chaffed or otherwise damaged along the run. While I do not like to throw parts at a problem, with this particular sender there's not much you can otherwise check besides the harness as a scan tool gets its info from this same part. A shop might connect a spare sender or mechanical gauge to confirm the diagnosis, but for DIY you typically won't have that available. Personally, I wouldn't suspect the cluster gauge itself since you're reporting consistent sweeping of the needle from 0 thru 40. I suppose it could be the PCM, or even an internal bearing thats gone out, but those would be on the extremely rare scale of events.
Sir I have a 97 with a 6.5td. have had intermittent acceleration problems for a long time. Sometimes it feels like it is dragging other times it feels like it's running great. By accident today I unplugged the oil pressure sensor so I rerouted the wires and plugged it back in and the problem went away.. is that an indication that the harness may have a short in it?
For 1997 the oil pressure sensor is not involved in the fuel circuit (this was true prior to 1996 though). Tough to say with certainty, but it's possible some other wiring involving the fuel injection pump harness you disturbed during the re-routing process was involved. It might be a rub thru situation from years of vibration, or it may be corrosion at a pin connection point. Either could have been _temporarily_ improved by the disturbance.
@@DrShock thank you for the reply sir.. I was under the impression that the oil pressure sensor controlled the lift pump. Telling it how much fuel to push through. This truck is a headache..lol
Would this part be my problem cause when I drive my truck over 30min and come to a stop my oil pressure drops to 0 but the engine never sound different.stays running smoothly
Possibly, you would want to eliminate any electrical problems first (both to the sender and the gauge). With their age now, these old body style (OBS) trucks will have developed some ground issues.
Hi I know this is 4 years old but my 97 is doing the same thing but it's not going to 0 yet but runs smoothly you think with low oil psi it would start knocking did you change the yours in did that help
I live in NC and own a 99 c3500 GM ambulance. The batteries died during the winter and after replacing them with new, I have the Security light always on. It sputters to crank and then dies. Can you recommend a video/tutorial to reset/disable this passlock dilemma? I love your knowledge and teaching style.
First, I'd suggest verifying the easy stuff. I had a Chevy Cobalt once with the security light on and wouldn't stay started, but it was because the battery had a defect of some sort causing an internal short. Replacing the battery/cleaning the terminals cleared that right up, so check your volts and cranking amps first. If that's good and its a legit security/Passlock trip, then you need to do a relearn procedure on that. Without a scan tool you can do a "10 minute" relearn procedure on that 99 - th-cam.com/video/5feL05TyLtI/w-d-xo.html
For the years covered, it's just an oil gauge not working. The oil pressure sender has nothing to do with the symptoms you're describing, for 1996 an up 6.5L diesels. If you had an older model, then this sender would also serve as the activation switch for the fuel lift pump.
@@DrShock Well it is a 98 C3500 dually with the 6.5 and it feels like it is bucking and i hate it with only 83K miles where should i look it is also up for sale i don't need such a beast no more
So for a 98, that's not going to be the oil pressure sender. I would first start with seeing if there are any codes stored by the PCM (not all of them will cause the check engine light on the dash to come on). Let the codes guide the next steps, if there are any. If there are no codes, and since you didn't mention any problems starting, I would start first with making sure no problems with air flow to engine, then fuel flow to injector pump, then I would make sure all is good with vacuum if its a turbo 6.5L. If that's all good I'd look at the injector pumps PMD unit next. Hope this helps.
@@DrShock You were right there were 3 codes i looked them up but being idk Diesels very well yet idk what they mean or where to start i got a P1216,P1217 and a P1654 where should i look from here thanks for all your help so far
P1216 & P1217 are fuel solenoid related, "could" be a PMD or PMD wiring harness problem, but usually is an injection pump problem. P1654 is service throttle soon lamp circuit. I would start with the P1654, this one is related to the dash lamp for the accelerator position sensor. It's a code from either the lamp for the service throttle soon lamp being shorted (does it light up during the lamp test when you first turn the key before starting?) , or a short to ground in the related circuitry. For the other two, it's handy to be able to borrow someone elses spare PMD to eliminate that as it's the cheaper repair (an injection pump repair will be quite costly).
The pressure switch works the oil pressure gage and once the engine is running, it supplies 12 volts to the lift pump also. It performs two functions in one switch
That lift pump aspect is only applicable for 1995 and earlier model years. In 1996 GM changed the circuit on this particular engine, and the OPS is no longer involved in powering the lift pump.
Same special tool and ACDelco part number I gave in the description. But the pre 1996 models have a different wiring harness since the oil pressure sensor was used as part of the lift pump enable circuit in those years. But the main reason I don't include 1992 - 1995 in the video title is that the location on the engine for the sensor is different on the earlier years. Other than that, fairly similar job.
On the years this video covers, the sensor only controls the oil pressure gauge. So a tech2 scan tool, or MDI with GDS2, is sufficient to confirm the diagnosis. Earlier model years this sensor also enabled the fuel lift pump, so that could be another symptom requiring more in-depth diagnosis on pre-1996 vehicles.
Never throw parts at a problem, get to root cause first. Saves money, and results in a better repair. Lift pump is easily tested and you can determine if it's actually in need of replacement first, see my other video here th-cam.com/video/CzSV6QX6mo4/w-d-xo.html
The "tuna can", it's called a CDR or crankcase depression regulator. Think of it like a PCV for diesel engines as its an emission controls part. You may just be seeing blowback emissions from the tubing connecting it to the engines valve cover, which may be in need of replacement. Inspect the tubing for flaws and replace if necessary. The CDR itself is fairly robust and rarely needs replacement, but you can google for a test to check it to be sure.
DrShock oh because i just change my turbo my old one wasn’t working at all , I install the new one and when I drove it to see if it feels different but then I open the hood and smoke was coming out of the turbo by the screws of the turbo housing
For 1996 and up, this would typically be a problem with the oil pressure gauge _most_ of the time. For 1995 and earlier, the lift pump power circuit is controlled by this part as well. So if you have no fuel coming out when you open the black fuel filter bleeder valve on top of the fuel module in the _initial_ key on/ignition off position - it can be this part for that symptom (this symptom could be a dead or dying lift pump too so you have to test further for which).
My suburban 95 6.5D some times lose power after stopped the engine and start again and going good probably I need replaced that sensor!! maybe results!!
I wouldn't expect an oil pressure sensor to affect engine "power". For a 95 if you have a lift pump problem it could be involved on that year as the switch circuit for the pump includes the oil pressure sensor. But otherwise this sensor is just for your oil pressure gauge to display correctly.
@@DrShock thanks for your explaining 👌 I appreciate now I'm tired to put a lot money on this engine! because I learned much about this L65 Detroit engine 👌 they used much on boats without electronics sensors and stuff's!! this type of the engine he doesn't need all this electronics stuff's for working good 👌 so I removed a vacuum pump and all sensors now if changed a electronic diesel pump to mechanical diesel pump ALL the problems gone forever!! and is much better finish the problems I have on this engine!! thanks for your attention mate cheers from Norway
Hi DRShock, I was watching your video and I have a 1996 3500 6.5L Chevy and I would like to ask you what position your serpentine belt tensioner is in. I can put a new belt on my truck and within two weeks it will be stretched all the way out, I have put on a new tensioner and this did not fix it. This is the size belt that I have from Autozone 6PK2555/ 5061005 I can get a 101 inch belt on but I can"t put a 100 inch on. Thanks 5/24/2020
I'm not sure I understand the question, the tensioner is keyed to only mount in a particular orientation to the engine block. Is this a GM tensioner or an aftermarket one you have installed? For a single generator I believe the GM belt number for your truck is 19244952 - www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts-list/1996-chevrolet-c3500/cooling_system_grille_oil_system/pulleys_belts_accessory_drive.html?Filter=(e=L65;t=MT1;m=CC30903)
@@DrShock What I was wondering was, what position your tensioner was in at this time, as for my tensioner it's all the way out. I can send you a picture on my tensioner if you would like?
Looking at the front I'd call it the 5 o'clock position. But I have factory dual generators which adds an additional idler pulley so this position may be unique to this configuration.
@@DrShock I took the numbers you gave me to my local parts store carquest and they cross reference and found the belt that worked. Thanks for all your help.
I hope I didn't say the _only_ way, as of course there's usually several ways to improvise and approach such disassembly. But definitely needs the special tool to remove the 96+ sender to avoid damaging it.
Good instructions. Note: I accidentally reported your video instead of a misleading advertisement. Please be sure to let TH-cam know, if they ask you about the report. I apologize for and trouble it may have caused. I was not able to cancel the report.
@@DrShock Thanks for always answering my questions and providing ACDelco part numbers. I am waiting for my rag joint and then I begin Upper control arms with ball joint, lower ball joint, new disc, calipers, brake lines, complete Timken hub assemblies, idler and arm, tie rod ends (I think that is it!). Need to see how to do pitman arm before I try it. Then, new wheel cylinders, shoes, spring kit(s) next. (1996 GMC K2500 Suburban, 7.4 Gas, 8600 GVW. 218,000.00)
Couldn't see how, primary purpose is to feed the data for the PCM to set the oil pressure gauge needle position. There was a time, pre-1996, when this part also controlled the lift pump circuit but that wouldn't apply to your 2000.
great vedeo and excellent explaining good work mate the GM engendered they made this engine for never replaced most of the parts!!😂 anyway but this engine is very good but without fucking electronic diesel pump!! the best ever are a without Turbo and with a mechanical diesel pump 👌 cheers from Norway
You blow me away with your ability to do everything. But what stands out is your ablility to source ACDelco original parts, then to find speality items like that Snapon adaptor. How did you even know to look for that tool???
Most of these tools were designed by General Motors and sold thru Kent-Moore. They are referenced in the GM service manuals. But often other companies like Snapon will make a similar special purpose tool for much less cost. So you find out in the service manual about special tools that are required.
The snap on was cheaper?
@@peterwill3699 Yep, over at eBay
Best thing I ever did on my 94 was to bypass the OPS with an aftermarket harness. It also allowed me to bleed the fuel system after filter removal.
FYI, that fuel function was only applicable to pre-1996 engines, GM redesigned it and afterwards the oil pressure sender had nothing to do with the lift pump action anymore.
ok I have one for u I have a 96 gmc van but it's the old body style with the 6.5 non turbo. but if u look up a 96 they all show the new body style called the Express and they came turbo diesel. so my ? is how doin know if my lift pump is driven off the ops?
@@karterguy1 That 96 would be a "G" model van if that helps on parts searches. This OPS circuit change was for "96 and up" but very early builds could be different I suppose. I honestly don't know for certain how you would distinguish such a situation. Certainly on a 96 you should have the lift pump activated and purring along during the wait to start cycle (dash lamp flashing). If you hear it then the LP is likely fine, if you don't hear anything (or feel the buzz vibrations with your fingers on the outside housing) I'd next try powering the LP directly disconnected from the vehicle harness to see if its good.
@@DrShock if this is so, then what exactly is the purpose of switching this part? The only reason I was about to buy one (which i most likely will anyway) was because I seen on other videos that people say, the lift pump is ran off the ops. If that isn't the issue for my 96 (which i can hear buzz when I turn the key) them I'm not sure why I would need a new ops.
@@creeplife2802 There is no point in switching this part unless you're diagnosing an issue with the oil pressure gauge for 1996 and up. It's got nothing at all to do with the lift pump circuit in the later design. But _before_ 1996, yeah it was used by GM as a safety shutoff to kill the lift pump when the oil pressure dropped. This video was about working on an oil pressure gauge not functioning correctly, as mentioned in the video it ended up being the instrument cluster that had to be repaired to correct it. If I did this repair all over again, I would have just pulled the cluster first. ;-)
Had to replace oil pressure switch on my 2000 3500hd 6.5 diesel.i couldn't get a snap-on S6152 tool, but found that a Basin wrench used in plumbing worked well to remove/install the switch. Hope this helps someone
1998 ….. 15 psi fuel pressure at T valve. Fuel present at return line on injector pump. 12 v going to FSS. New PMD relocate, Carter lift pump, Fuel filters, battery, alternator, oil pressure switch, upgraded fuel hose supply to IP. Last ran in current condition 2 day ago for 1 min. Now no crank. Fuel restriction?
I used a plumbers basin pipe wrench.
I'm assuming this could also be why it may show over 40 psi once started from a cold start and start to show 0 once its at operating temp? I just got a 93 3500 and its been doing that.
Possibly, if you're sure the sender wiring harness isn't chaffed or otherwise damaged along the run. While I do not like to throw parts at a problem, with this particular sender there's not much you can otherwise check besides the harness as a scan tool gets its info from this same part. A shop might connect a spare sender or mechanical gauge to confirm the diagnosis, but for DIY you typically won't have that available. Personally, I wouldn't suspect the cluster gauge itself since you're reporting consistent sweeping of the needle from 0 thru 40. I suppose it could be the PCM, or even an internal bearing thats gone out, but those would be on the extremely rare scale of events.
Be careful make sure you don’t have a duty oil screen under the oil panel
Sir I have a 97 with a 6.5td. have had intermittent acceleration problems for a long time. Sometimes it feels like it is dragging other times it feels like it's running great. By accident today I unplugged the oil pressure sensor so I rerouted the wires and plugged it back in and the problem went away.. is that an indication that the harness may have a short in it?
For 1997 the oil pressure sensor is not involved in the fuel circuit (this was true prior to 1996 though). Tough to say with certainty, but it's possible some other wiring involving the fuel injection pump harness you disturbed during the re-routing process was involved. It might be a rub thru situation from years of vibration, or it may be corrosion at a pin connection point. Either could have been _temporarily_ improved by the disturbance.
@@DrShock thank you for the reply sir.. I was under the impression that the oil pressure sensor controlled the lift pump. Telling it how much fuel to push through. This truck is a headache..lol
That was true, about the oil pressure sensor being part of the lift pump fuel circuit, but only thru 1995.
Would this part be my problem cause when I drive my truck over 30min and come to a stop my oil pressure drops to 0 but the engine never sound different.stays running smoothly
Possibly, you would want to eliminate any electrical problems first (both to the sender and the gauge). With their age now, these old body style (OBS) trucks will have developed some ground issues.
Hi I know this is 4 years old but my 97 is doing the same thing but it's not going to 0 yet but runs smoothly you think with low oil psi it would start knocking did you change the yours in did that help
I live in NC and own a 99 c3500 GM ambulance. The batteries died during the winter and after replacing them with new, I have the Security light always on. It sputters to crank and then dies. Can you recommend a video/tutorial to reset/disable this passlock dilemma? I love your knowledge and teaching style.
First, I'd suggest verifying the easy stuff. I had a Chevy Cobalt once with the security light on and wouldn't stay started, but it was because the battery had a defect of some sort causing an internal short. Replacing the battery/cleaning the terminals cleared that right up, so check your volts and cranking amps first. If that's good and its a legit security/Passlock trip, then you need to do a relearn procedure on that. Without a scan tool you can do a "10 minute" relearn procedure on that 99 - th-cam.com/video/5feL05TyLtI/w-d-xo.html
@@DrShock Thanks for taking time to reply. I'll check the batteries and connections tomorrow.
Does it screw all the way down. I can see the threads on mine. It does not go all the way down.
The thread is pipe thread. It is tapered, so no don't try to force tighten it. With sealant on the threads, tighten it good but don't Gorilla on it.
What were the symptoms for need of replacement my truck is surging and feels likes it is bucking almost holding back
For the years covered, it's just an oil gauge not working. The oil pressure sender has nothing to do with the symptoms you're describing, for 1996 an up 6.5L diesels. If you had an older model, then this sender would also serve as the activation switch for the fuel lift pump.
@@DrShock Well it is a 98 C3500 dually with the 6.5 and it feels like it is bucking and i hate it with only 83K miles where should i look it is also up for sale i don't need such a beast no more
So for a 98, that's not going to be the oil pressure sender. I would first start with seeing if there are any codes stored by the PCM (not all of them will cause the check engine light on the dash to come on). Let the codes guide the next steps, if there are any. If there are no codes, and since you didn't mention any problems starting, I would start first with making sure no problems with air flow to engine, then fuel flow to injector pump, then I would make sure all is good with vacuum if its a turbo 6.5L. If that's all good I'd look at the injector pumps PMD unit next. Hope this helps.
@@DrShock You were right there were 3 codes i looked them up but being idk Diesels very well yet idk what they mean or where to start i got a P1216,P1217 and a P1654 where should i look from here thanks for all your help so far
P1216 & P1217 are fuel solenoid related, "could" be a PMD or PMD wiring harness problem, but usually is an injection pump problem. P1654 is service throttle soon lamp circuit. I would start with the P1654, this one is related to the dash lamp for the accelerator position sensor. It's a code from either the lamp for the service throttle soon lamp being shorted (does it light up during the lamp test when you first turn the key before starting?) , or a short to ground in the related circuitry. For the other two, it's handy to be able to borrow someone elses spare PMD to eliminate that as it's the cheaper repair (an injection pump repair will be quite costly).
The pressure switch works the oil pressure gage and once the engine is running, it supplies 12 volts to the lift pump also. It performs two functions in one switch
That lift pump aspect is only applicable for 1995 and earlier model years. In 1996 GM changed the circuit on this particular engine, and the OPS is no longer involved in powering the lift pump.
Is it much different in a 94? Say I can just a socket? Doubt I have that one lol.
Same special tool and ACDelco part number I gave in the description. But the pre 1996 models have a different wiring harness since the oil pressure sensor was used as part of the lift pump enable circuit in those years. But the main reason I don't include 1992 - 1995 in the video title is that the location on the engine for the sensor is different on the earlier years. Other than that, fairly similar job.
@@DrShockSounds like I'll be removing the intake.
How did you originally diagnose it?
On the years this video covers, the sensor only controls the oil pressure gauge. So a tech2 scan tool, or MDI with GDS2, is sufficient to confirm the diagnosis. Earlier model years this sensor also enabled the fuel lift pump, so that could be another symptom requiring more in-depth diagnosis on pre-1996 vehicles.
I have concluded to try to replace this and the lift pump before going after the PMD does that sound about right or am i chasing the wrong path
Never throw parts at a problem, get to root cause first. Saves money, and results in a better repair. Lift pump is easily tested and you can determine if it's actually in need of replacement first, see my other video here th-cam.com/video/CzSV6QX6mo4/w-d-xo.html
Sir quick question the hose / cylinder that’s said this goes up . Is smoking white smoke any idea what will it be ?
The one that has like a blue sticker next to the turbo
The "tuna can", it's called a CDR or crankcase depression regulator. Think of it like a PCV for diesel engines as its an emission controls part. You may just be seeing blowback emissions from the tubing connecting it to the engines valve cover, which may be in need of replacement. Inspect the tubing for flaws and replace if necessary. The CDR itself is fairly robust and rarely needs replacement, but you can google for a test to check it to be sure.
DrShock oh because i just change my turbo my old one wasn’t working at all , I install the new one and when I drove it to see if it feels different but then I open the hood and smoke was coming out of the turbo by the screws of the turbo housing
Do you think this could cause my 6.5 to have rough start and low idle on start up?
For 1996 and up, this would typically be a problem with the oil pressure gauge _most_ of the time. For 1995 and earlier, the lift pump power circuit is controlled by this part as well. So if you have no fuel coming out when you open the black fuel filter bleeder valve on top of the fuel module in the _initial_ key on/ignition off position - it can be this part for that symptom (this symptom could be a dead or dying lift pump too so you have to test further for which).
@@DrShock okay I’ll look into that. I’ve trying to find a lead to the route of its problem. But thank you for the response
My suburban 95 6.5D some times lose power after stopped the engine and start again and going good probably I need replaced that sensor!! maybe results!!
I wouldn't expect an oil pressure sensor to affect engine "power". For a 95 if you have a lift pump problem it could be involved on that year as the switch circuit for the pump includes the oil pressure sensor. But otherwise this sensor is just for your oil pressure gauge to display correctly.
@@DrShock thanks for your explaining 👌 I appreciate now I'm tired to put a lot money on this engine! because I learned much about this L65 Detroit engine 👌 they used much on boats without electronics sensors and stuff's!! this type of the engine he doesn't need all this electronics stuff's for working good 👌 so I removed a vacuum pump and all sensors now if changed a electronic diesel pump to mechanical diesel pump ALL the problems gone forever!! and is much better finish the problems I have on this engine!! thanks for your attention mate cheers from Norway
I put an extension hose on mine . Never gonna dig that thing out again. Made a bracket and mounted to the firewall.
Hi DRShock, I was watching your video and I have a 1996 3500 6.5L Chevy and I would like to ask you what position your serpentine belt tensioner is in. I can put a new belt on my truck and within two weeks it will be stretched all the way out, I have put on a new tensioner and this did not fix it. This is the size belt that I have from Autozone 6PK2555/ 5061005 I can get a 101 inch belt on but I can"t put a 100 inch on. Thanks 5/24/2020
I'm not sure I understand the question, the tensioner is keyed to only mount in a particular orientation to the engine block. Is this a GM tensioner or an aftermarket one you have installed? For a single generator I believe the GM belt number for your truck is 19244952 - www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts-list/1996-chevrolet-c3500/cooling_system_grille_oil_system/pulleys_belts_accessory_drive.html?Filter=(e=L65;t=MT1;m=CC30903)
@@DrShock What I was wondering was, what position your tensioner was in at this time, as for my tensioner it's all the way out. I can send you a picture on my tensioner if you would like?
Looking at the front I'd call it the 5 o'clock position. But I have factory dual generators which adds an additional idler pulley so this position may be unique to this configuration.
@@DrShock I took the numbers you gave me to my local parts store carquest and they cross reference and found the belt that worked. Thanks for all your help.
You say that's the only way. What if you removed the fuel filter canister? Two bolts and one line and swing it out of the way.
I hope I didn't say the _only_ way, as of course there's usually several ways to improvise and approach such disassembly. But definitely needs the special tool to remove the 96+ sender to avoid damaging it.
Good instructions. Note: I accidentally reported your video instead of a misleading advertisement. Please be sure to let TH-cam know, if they ask you about the report. I apologize for and trouble it may have caused. I was not able to cancel the report.
I forgot to ask: Why are you replacing the Sender?
Oil pressure gauge had stopped working. Turned out it was the aircore motor for the gauge, but usually it's the pressure sensor.
@@DrShock Thanks for always answering my questions and providing ACDelco part numbers. I am waiting for my rag joint and then I begin Upper control arms with ball joint, lower ball joint, new disc, calipers, brake lines, complete Timken hub assemblies, idler and arm, tie rod ends (I think that is it!). Need to see how to do pitman arm before I try it. Then, new wheel cylinders, shoes, spring kit(s) next. (1996 GMC K2500 Suburban, 7.4 Gas, 8600 GVW. 218,000.00)
Will this cause a crank no start with a 2000 6.5?
Couldn't see how, primary purpose is to feed the data for the PCM to set the oil pressure gauge needle position. There was a time, pre-1996, when this part also controlled the lift pump circuit but that wouldn't apply to your 2000.
what tools did you use in the video.
I listed those in the description.
great video bro!
great vedeo and excellent explaining good work mate the GM engendered they made this engine for never replaced most of the parts!!😂 anyway but this engine is very good but without fucking electronic diesel pump!! the best ever are a without Turbo and with a mechanical diesel pump 👌 cheers from Norway