Thank you for such a great video as always you were very informative. What procedure did you use to bleed out any air in that fuel system after changing the hoses and the fuel filter manager thanks in advance
Thanks. You vent the air out of the fuel filter manager the same as when you change the fuel filter, using the top vent valve present for that purpose. Residual air in the new fuel lines will be purged naturally by the fuel injection pump during the initial cranking sequence after the repair.
@@DrShock thank you I was wondering if that would do it. That hose that feeds the injection pump with the 90 on it did not go all the way back to the fuel filter manager or did you have to splice shit together? At the moment I have my intake off, because I must have a small leak somewhere because I can smell diesel fuel on the heart engine, but can’t seem to find where it’s coming from. So maybe I should change all my hoses too. Thank you so much you have been a lot of help. I love all your videos. You do an excellent job.
Dr. Shock, great video as always! I have a question for you, I have 94 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 6.5L diesel truck which I am curently having problems with. I warmed the vehicle a day before using it (it had been off for a while) and it started good. The following day, when I turned it on, I noticed that it was a bit weak and when I tried to go up a small hill about 1/2 mile from my home, the truck stopped moving, started making a loud and strange noise from the engine, the vehicle started vibrating, and black smoke was coming out the exhaust. I turned it off and waited a while then turned it back on, but the vehicule still would not move. I got it towed to my house and tried to turn it on a couple days later. I noticed it was a bit low on disel, so I put diesel in, bled the truck and some air came out the system, but it still would not turn on. What do you believe the problem could be?
Ok they are 15mm. I was wondering. That's what was closest but still a little loose with the socket but deep socket did feel a little tighter. I'll try tmrw. I was afraid to strip those. That kind of bolt I don't like. It reminded me of the transmission pan drain plug. I am still working on my glow plugs, lol I got 6 new ones, one that's waiting for a new 56 terminal in the mail and one that's still stuck! I tried extractors and no luck. It won't turn. Thought if I had the opposite of the reverse bit I could try tightening and then loosening back and forth but idk. It seems impossible. Can't drill anymore into it. Maybe it needs welding a nut to it or smthg from an expert. Anyways I have a leak in the valve covers and started taking it apart. Not sure if you have a video for that, but thanks for this again.
What's the name of this book? Do it have references to the glow plug system, I did a fuel filter exchange and not my glow plugs light will not work, HELP!!!!😢
Dr.Shock 👏👏👏 Muy buen tutorial video explicado con detalle 👌. Hay algo que quiero preguntarle, agradecería su respuesta, después de renovar las viejas mangueras y limpiar el la carcasa del filtro de combustible y hacer las pruebas a los accesorios, No le intereso Actualizar la linia de salida que va hacia la bomba de inyección de 5/16" a 3/8"? Se lo comento porque hay foros en la web hablando de la deficiente linia de suministro de combustible que la GM impuso, y los desgastes prematuros que puede provocar al DS4(IP) Y mas si remolcas o eres de conducción muy rápida, teniendo que hacer vacío la I.P. y calentándose por la falta de combustible constante en esos picos de demanda y que a la LP le cuesta trabajo entregar y mas por restricción de la linia 5/16" : hay un kit no muy caro o que uno puede tratar de hacer Llamado : FTB (“Feed That Beast!”) , Dr.Shock le puedo decir que talvez no fue la gran cosa, pero si me ayudo(talvez me falto actualizar la bomba Elevadora de combustible, pero ya no tenia presupuesto) cuento con un medidor de presión de combustible de paso, 0-15psi instalado en el marco lateral del parabrisas y le puedo decir que ante con la manguera 5/16" a medio acelerador el medidor caía 0 psi y ahora actualizada a 3/8" la caída a 0psi es 3/4 acelerador presionado aproximadamente, (no crea que ando midiendo el recorrido del acelerador😁) pero de que me soporta un poco mas, me soporta y para conducción citadina, económica y alargando su vida útil. estoy conforme; Agradezco su humilde opinión .
Gracias. En este video muestro el reemplazo de todas las líneas de combustible originales con piezas OEM originales de GM. No soy fanático de usar piezas o accesorios del mercado de accesorios. En cambio, prefiero mantener los vehículos exactamente como los diseñaron los ingenieros del OEM. Los ingenieros de GM y Standadyne eligieron la línea de combustible de tamaño estándar para cumplir con las especificaciones de rendimiento y economía de combustible. Sin embargo, ciertamente no dañará nada, aparte de quizás la economía de combustible, para hacer el mod FTB. Simplemente no es algo que personalmente le haría a mi vehículo o al de otra persona. La única modificación al motor de 6.5 L de la que soy fanático es actualizar el PMD negro suministrado por GM al último modelo de diseño Standadyne _gray_ one. Y luego montarlo de forma remota en el área de la fosa nasal del parachoques delantero. Esta es un área que los ingenieros definitivamente pasaron por alto.
Great video! Very detailed. I have a question? Do you know what the bracket is called that sits on top off the fuel filter manager? It has 3 plugs on it?
I believe you are describing a wiring harness mounting bracket. It shares the mounting bolts with the FFM, and holds several wiring harness connectors at the back via press in plastic tree connectors.
@@DrShock yes sir that sounds like it. I had an electrical fire. So now I have to find out where thouse wires go. Long story short I could not get the bracket to go back on after replacing the ffm so I left it off. And apparently a wire melted. Thanks so much for replying! And have a fantastic day!
I was waiting to see the replacement plastic that goes over the center tube inside the manager housing. Is it available without going to a new assembly ?
I'm not aware of that part ever being separately serviced by Stanadyne. Unless you are referring to the white nylon screen at the bottom there? That part is serviced, and is listed in the video description.
Very detailed vid. Question? is it possible to test fuel pressure from the lift pump at the T valve? and what's the cost on the fuel management assembly?
You could test it there but you would need to pull the hose off the T for an accurate reading. Given the age, be prepared for the hose to _disintegrate_ upon removal. ;-)
Question man I got a 96 6.5 if engine it’s cold it start right and runs like a champ but ones u turn it off it won’t turn on again just cranks could this be causing it ? No engine light
Hard to start when hot unfortunately has a list of possible cause categories that have to be individually diagnosed. Fuel is certainly one of the categories. You can verify alot of the fuel delivery system operation just by checking fuel flow/pressure on the outlet side of the fuel filter manager at the brass t-fitting that is used to purge water out of the housing. Getting a passing test result at the t-fitting crosses off the fuel filler cap, fuel tank inlet sock, the lift pump, the fuel filter, and the fuel lines into the injection pump.
I am putting in a new FFM. Need reassurance which is which on the 2 steel hoses on the driver side: One is from the lift pump to FFM. The other is the fuel return network. One of them sticks out further than the other.
If you mean which of those hard lines is which based solely on their resting position at the bellhousing, this can vary by vehicle model. It can also vary by how they are entrapped by the loop retainer(s) secured by the bellhousing bolts (some vehicles will have the inlet closer to the engine, others would have return closer). I would manually verify the inlet hard line by following it up from the lift pump rather than it's physical position at the bellhousing.
I don't know about P-vans, but on G-vans like the Chevrolet Express it would be on the drivers side frame rail. The replacement procedure and filter housing design is different than the C/K truck version I show in this video though.
First, well it's not my truck, but rather someones I've handled all the service for over many years. Second, I've got many decades in GM factory restoration work. Numbers matching show cars and trucks where date codes, stamping codes, and OEM originality are paramount. So even when doing side repair jobs for myself or others like on this old diesel truck - I prefer keeping everything OG.
@DrShock 6.5 for years was the most misunderstood engine. I used to live in nw Pennsylvania and was working on them way back in 94. I still have my 93 4 door dually 2 wd. Starting to build another engine. I love it it stands out it might not make 1200 hp but enough to keep me smiling. Stay safe
You could use regular fuel hose, but you'll have to leave extra length and find a way to secure it to prevent kinking. The reason it's molded into an angle is to prevent the kinking in those bend areas.
I have hard start despite good cranking speed and good glow plugs; modest blowby. Really hard start below 60F. Once it has been running it starts fine. But after it sits several hours it has to crank a lot to start. I'll follow up after I replace these components for the benefit of your viewers. I've replaced the tank due to a leak and all the hard lines up to the firewall. The lift pump was found to be inoperable with these repairs, traced back to a bad ground near the tank in the frame rail.
FWIW the FFM heater isn't going to come into play until you're getting below 20 degrees so that's not going to be related to what you're experiencing. If the fuel lines are not aged out (cracking / brittle) there's no need to replace them either. I would connect a fuel pressure gauge and clear fuel line hose to the output of the FFM going into the injection pump. If you have the GM service manual specified psi (it's very low on these diesels), and no air coming into the injection pump, then it's not a fuel starvation problem either. I would determine whether a failing PMD is a contributor to this hard starting behavior before throwing parts at the fuel delivery system. This TSB can be helpful - oemys-performance.com/media/pmd%20sb-77-63-06a.pdf
I have a 1998 GMC K2500 with the 6.5. Any chance you are a reasonable distance from west TN & would want to do this service in my engine???? Truck only has 123,000 original miles on it
This video is FANTASTIC ! I am retro fitting this filter to a 1988 K3500 to get rid of the old leaky Box filter forever!
what an amazing video. I’m doing the job now 6/19/24 and this is coming in sooo nice. Thank you very much !!!
Bra instruktiv video. Tack så mycket.
Un grand merci pour toutes ces explications précises.
You are amazing. I need someone like you in Chicago
You have patience and skill. Bravo.
Thank you for sharing your wisdom with us,i don’t know if you’re an engineer but you sure are one of the 2 percent God bless
Thanks, my academic and professional background is in engineering.
Thank you for such a great video as always you were very informative. What procedure did you use to bleed out any air in that fuel system after changing the hoses and the fuel filter manager thanks in advance
Thanks. You vent the air out of the fuel filter manager the same as when you change the fuel filter, using the top vent valve present for that purpose. Residual air in the new fuel lines will be purged naturally by the fuel injection pump during the initial cranking sequence after the repair.
@@DrShock thank you I was wondering if that would do it.
That hose that feeds the injection pump with the 90 on it did not go all the way back to the fuel filter manager or did you have to splice shit together?
At the moment I have my intake off, because I must have a small leak somewhere because I can smell diesel fuel on the heart engine, but can’t seem to find where it’s coming from. So maybe I should change all my hoses too. Thank you so much you have been a lot of help. I love all your videos. You do an excellent job.
No splicing required with the original GM part numbers. It all fit back the same as when originally manufactured, correct lengths, bends and all.
Great video as usual... great info and to the point! Love it, keep it coming
Great video and explanation as usual I think I will do the same running a 1998 6.5 so I'm sure my hoses will also need replaced, and sensors tested.
Thanks for this video very informative, just like all of your 6.5td video's.
Dr. Shock, great video as always! I have a question for you, I have 94 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 6.5L diesel truck which I am curently having problems with. I warmed the vehicle a day before using it (it had been off for a while) and it started good. The following day, when I turned it on, I noticed that it was a bit weak and when I tried to go up a small hill about 1/2 mile from my home, the truck stopped moving, started making a loud and strange noise from the engine, the vehicle started vibrating, and black smoke was coming out the exhaust. I turned it off and waited a while then turned it back on, but the vehicule still would not move. I got it towed to my house and tried to turn it on a couple days later. I noticed it was a bit low on disel, so I put diesel in, bled the truck and some air came out the system, but it still would not turn on. What do you believe the problem could be?
Good video!
Great info/video!
Ok they are 15mm. I was wondering. That's what was closest but still a little loose with the socket but deep socket did feel a little tighter. I'll try tmrw. I was afraid to strip those. That kind of bolt I don't like. It reminded me of the transmission pan drain plug.
I am still working on my glow plugs, lol I got 6 new ones, one that's waiting for a new 56 terminal in the mail and one that's still stuck! I tried extractors and no luck. It won't turn. Thought if I had the opposite of the reverse bit I could try tightening and then loosening back and forth but idk. It seems impossible. Can't drill anymore into it. Maybe it needs welding a nut to it or smthg from an expert.
Anyways I have a leak in the valve covers and started taking it apart. Not sure if you have a video for that, but thanks for this again.
What's the name of this book? Do it have references to the glow plug system, I did a fuel filter exchange and not my glow plugs light will not work, HELP!!!!😢
GM factory service manual. Long long out of print, but I put a link in the description where you might find a set used from time to time.
Dr.Shock 👏👏👏 Muy buen tutorial video explicado con detalle 👌. Hay algo que quiero preguntarle, agradecería su respuesta, después de renovar las viejas mangueras y limpiar el la carcasa del filtro de combustible y hacer las pruebas a los accesorios, No le intereso Actualizar la linia de salida que va hacia la bomba de inyección de 5/16" a 3/8"?
Se lo comento porque hay foros en la web hablando de la deficiente linia de suministro de combustible que la GM impuso, y los desgastes prematuros que puede provocar al DS4(IP) Y mas si remolcas o eres de conducción muy rápida, teniendo que hacer vacío la I.P. y calentándose por la falta de combustible constante en esos picos de demanda y que a la LP le cuesta trabajo entregar y mas por restricción de la linia 5/16" : hay un kit no muy caro o que uno puede tratar de hacer Llamado :
FTB (“Feed That Beast!”) , Dr.Shock le puedo decir que talvez no fue la gran cosa, pero si me ayudo(talvez me falto actualizar la bomba Elevadora de combustible, pero ya no tenia presupuesto) cuento con un medidor de presión de combustible de paso, 0-15psi instalado en el marco lateral del parabrisas y le puedo decir que ante con la manguera 5/16" a medio acelerador el medidor caía 0 psi y ahora actualizada a 3/8" la caída a 0psi es 3/4 acelerador presionado aproximadamente, (no crea que ando midiendo el recorrido del acelerador😁) pero de que me soporta un poco mas, me soporta y para conducción citadina, económica y alargando su vida útil. estoy conforme; Agradezco su humilde opinión .
Gracias. En este video muestro el reemplazo de todas las líneas de combustible originales con piezas OEM originales de GM. No soy fanático de usar piezas o accesorios del mercado de accesorios. En cambio, prefiero mantener los vehículos exactamente como los diseñaron los ingenieros del OEM. Los ingenieros de GM y Standadyne eligieron la línea de combustible de tamaño estándar para cumplir con las especificaciones de rendimiento y economía de combustible.
Sin embargo, ciertamente no dañará nada, aparte de quizás la economía de combustible, para hacer el mod FTB. Simplemente no es algo que personalmente le haría a mi vehículo o al de otra persona. La única modificación al motor de 6.5 L de la que soy fanático es actualizar el PMD negro suministrado por GM al último modelo de diseño Standadyne _gray_ one. Y luego montarlo de forma remota en el área de la fosa nasal del parachoques delantero. Esta es un área que los ingenieros definitivamente pasaron por alto.
Great video! Very detailed. I have a question? Do you know what the bracket is called that sits on top off the fuel filter manager? It has 3 plugs on it?
I believe you are describing a wiring harness mounting bracket. It shares the mounting bolts with the FFM, and holds several wiring harness connectors at the back via press in plastic tree connectors.
@@DrShock yes sir that sounds like it. I had an electrical fire. So now I have to find out where thouse wires go. Long story short I could not get the bracket to go back on after replacing the ffm so I left it off. And apparently a wire melted. Thanks so much for replying! And have a fantastic day!
Turbo power for the win ❤
I was waiting to see the replacement plastic that goes over the center tube inside the manager housing. Is it available without going to a new assembly ?
I'm not aware of that part ever being separately serviced by Stanadyne. Unless you are referring to the white nylon screen at the bottom there? That part is serviced, and is listed in the video description.
@@DrShock I will certainly check it next filter change.
Very detailed vid. Question? is it possible to test fuel pressure from the lift pump at the T valve? and what's the cost on the fuel management assembly?
You could test it there but you would need to pull the hose off the T for an accurate reading. Given the age, be prepared for the hose to _disintegrate_ upon removal. ;-)
at what temperature does the heater shut off; i.e. what temperature fuel does it supply to the injector pump?
Not documented by GM or Stanadyne in their service manuals.
Thanks!
Question man I got a 96 6.5 if engine it’s cold it start right and runs like a champ but ones u turn it off it won’t turn on again just cranks could this be causing it ? No engine light
Hard to start when hot unfortunately has a list of possible cause categories that have to be individually diagnosed. Fuel is certainly one of the categories. You can verify alot of the fuel delivery system operation just by checking fuel flow/pressure on the outlet side of the fuel filter manager at the brass t-fitting that is used to purge water out of the housing. Getting a passing test result at the t-fitting crosses off the fuel filler cap, fuel tank inlet sock, the lift pump, the fuel filter, and the fuel lines into the injection pump.
@@DrShock thanks i appreciate that
I am putting in a new FFM. Need reassurance which is which on the 2 steel hoses on the driver side: One is from the lift pump to FFM. The other is the fuel return network. One of them sticks out further than the other.
Your FFM, if a genuine OEM unit, is going to be marked as to inlet and outlet on the aluminum casting no?
@@DrShock The delco FFM is well marked.
I am referring to the hard lines coming up from below. One is the lift pump line, the other is return-to-tank
If you mean which of those hard lines is which based solely on their resting position at the bellhousing, this can vary by vehicle model. It can also vary by how they are entrapped by the loop retainer(s) secured by the bellhousing bolts (some vehicles will have the inlet closer to the engine, others would have return closer). I would manually verify the inlet hard line by following it up from the lift pump rather than it's physical position at the bellhousing.
On the cutaway or van versions, The filter is underneath correct?
I don't know about P-vans, but on G-vans like the Chevrolet Express it would be on the drivers side frame rail. The replacement procedure and filter housing design is different than the C/K truck version I show in this video though.
@@DrShock Thanks
Why not up grade with a fuel dog or similar. 2 filters and adjustable fuel psi with heater just wondering
First, well it's not my truck, but rather someones I've handled all the service for over many years. Second, I've got many decades in GM factory restoration work. Numbers matching show cars and trucks where date codes, stamping codes, and OEM originality are paramount.
So even when doing side repair jobs for myself or others like on this old diesel truck - I prefer keeping everything OG.
@DrShock 6.5 for years was the most misunderstood engine. I used to live in nw Pennsylvania and was working on them way back in 94. I still have my 93 4 door dually 2 wd. Starting to build another engine. I love it it stands out it might not make 1200 hp but enough to keep me smiling. Stay safe
Could you use regular lines, without bends vs the pre bent lines?
You could use regular fuel hose, but you'll have to leave extra length and find a way to secure it to prevent kinking. The reason it's molded into an angle is to prevent the kinking in those bend areas.
What were the symptoms exhibited prompting repair?
Age (rubber hoses dry out and crack and sediment accumulates in the FFM after a few decades).
I have hard start despite good cranking speed and good glow plugs; modest blowby. Really hard start below 60F. Once it has been running it starts fine. But after it sits several hours it has to crank a lot to start. I'll follow up after I replace these components for the benefit of your viewers. I've replaced the tank due to a leak and all the hard lines up to the firewall. The lift pump was found to be inoperable with these repairs, traced back to a bad ground near the tank in the frame rail.
FWIW the FFM heater isn't going to come into play until you're getting below 20 degrees so that's not going to be related to what you're experiencing. If the fuel lines are not aged out (cracking / brittle) there's no need to replace them either. I would connect a fuel pressure gauge and clear fuel line hose to the output of the FFM going into the injection pump. If you have the GM service manual specified psi (it's very low on these diesels), and no air coming into the injection pump, then it's not a fuel starvation problem either.
I would determine whether a failing PMD is a contributor to this hard starting behavior before throwing parts at the fuel delivery system. This TSB can be helpful - oemys-performance.com/media/pmd%20sb-77-63-06a.pdf
Can heater leak through the wires?
Uncommon / rare imo, but technically possible. The leaks are more typically at the seals I showed.
Can the ffm be relocated for better access in the future?
Or is there a after market ffm?
I'm not aware of a direct aftermarket version of this particular part, but I only work with genuine OEM parts myself.
What about bleeding off the filter?
That's pretty routine maintenance stuff, covered here th-cam.com/video/_0O8mzPe9pE/w-d-xo.html
I had a diesel leak, the fuel heater wires shorted out, Mechanic said I was very lucky My Truck didn't burn.
do you have or know where I can get the manual repair?
They have been out of print for many years, but there's a search link in the video description you could try.
I got lucky at a dealership in a smaller city that still had a printed set on the shelves. Case of Beer and $40 for five 1997 manuals.
I have a 1998 GMC K2500 with the 6.5. Any chance you are a reasonable distance from west TN & would want to do this service in my engine???? Truck only has 123,000 original miles on it
Hm where do I get that manual?
They've been out of print for many years now, but there's a link in the description where you might find an used set listed from time to time.
Didn't see hose connection at injector pump
Same clamp type as the filter manager end.