I had the whole pulley come off because I couldn't tighten it properly. I chose this video to try to see how and he just says reverse of how you get it off. Thanks a lot lmao
@zotanzero sorry it didn't help. If I remember correctly it was just 3 bolts and I tightened them with wrenches. If you remove the pulley it's easier to tighten the bolts but I didn't have to do that because my replacement was a complete set up. I imagine tightening the pulley bolt would be similar, I prefer wrenches because you can grab a cheater to get more torque if needed.
Thanks for this, I just started hearing some grinding under the hood the other day, opened it up and saw the water pump pulley shaking. She's about to go out, and now I know how to replace it. Thank!
Happy to help. Figured I'd record it and post it in case anyone could use the help. So far some have so I'm glad I did. I'm going to be doing a 04 3.0 swap series too since literally from the dash forward everything needs to be swapped over wiring wise. Going to be a fun headache.
I have a 2003 2.3L 4c 16v. Coolant leakin’ from pulley where water pump is. Bet it’s bad O ring. Probably stretched now. Thank you so much for video and info.
My water pump pulley froze up and burnt my serpentine belt to nothing. Got off the road just in time and parked in front of a… massage parlor for men that was open at 6pm on a Sunday. We got the belt parts uncoiled from the other pulleys and picked up a water pump. So this video helps a ton. If you are going to pull over and sit in a parking lot. Try not to do it in front of a strange massage parlor. All the dudes going in stare you down like your a PI their wife sent. That aside, 283,000 miles on a single water pump. I’m not going to complain.
That's awesome. Glad it helped. My pump went at about 185k on the engine I swapped into the ranger. The rest of it has 264k now. Changed the ball joints and outer tie rods and the rest has been cosmetic. My donor was a 2001 b2300. Love these rangers, even the clone.
Justin...thanks for the vid I'm changing a pump now thought it would be good to see it done first. Again thank you pal for taking the time to make and upload this vid👍👍
No problem man. If you have any other questions on it, feel free to hit me up and I'll make a video. I've got 2 2.3l engines (ones disassembled), one's in my ranger. I'm happy to help and make vids on anything requested if I'm able. Thanks for viewing and supporting my (very small) channel.
Thank you so much bud. My ranger tends to get hot i don’t know why. So I’m changing water pump, Coolant and thermostat and hoses and hope for the best. Thanks!
I understand. However, the replacement pump was complete with a pulley since I pulled it off of my donor engine so pulling 3 pump bolts out was less work that pulling the pulley and then the pump. I like less work when able
I try to use hand tools as much as possible. Keeps muscles in a usable state. Even little things matter. Same way for the farm I work on. Drives them nuts that I lift instead of using forklifts and wrench instead of using air tools. Just my preference. But thanks for the few and comment. Appreciate you.
There's only 3 bolts holding it to the block if I remember. If it's still stuck, you have to knock it loose or pry it loose. I used a rubber mallet and a long pry bar if I remember correctly.
You can remove the pulley but that just gives you easier access to the mounting bolts of the pump. If you're new water pump doesn't have a pulley than it's easiest to pull the pulley while the belt is still on. If the new pump includes a pulley, you don't need to remove it and you save steps
Mine had water in it. Makes me nervous so checking the pump. Radiator seems okay. I want to check the thermostat I'm wondering if there isn't one I did see the temp move just a tiny bit still curious though if it doesn't have one.
A lot of people will just pull a thermostat when there's overheating issues because it's stuck. Also worth the 10-15 bucks to put it back in since you're there anyways. Thanks for the watch and comment.
There wasn't any point. The pump was being swapped with another water pump that was complete. If I had to swap the pulley, I would've removed it but it wasn't a needed step.
I didn't pull the pulley because the waterpump I was putting on had its own pulley on it already. Could've been faster taking the pulley off, but the only real time it took to take it off was trying to film at the same time. Thanks for commenting and watching.
The engine in it currently is the Duratec 2.3l out of a 2001 Mazda B2300, but the Ranger itself is a 2002. I guess I should've put the info in every video but didn't think to after it had been introduced to the channel since I went straight into the engine swap. Got the truck for free 😁
What symptoms were you having? My coolant doesn't seem to flow and I changed the thermostat and radiator fan. So idk whether to change the radiator or water pump next
I had water leaking out of the bottom of my water pump so luckily I had no gremlins to CSI. If it's not flowing properly I would do a water pump and if it still persists, I'd take it to a shop and have them flush the cooling system under pressure. Let me know how it goes.
From personal experience, the best way to get the pump out is to remove the bolts, use your channel locks and rotate the pump back and forth. The cylindrical mating surfaces appear to prefer this method more than trying to pry it out since that tends to misalign the surfaces and introduces binding. Just my two cents.
The pump in this video was stuck from the o-ring getting dislodged from its channel which was also the cause of the leak. The spare water pump off my donor engine had zero issues being removed and then placed on this engine. And it's still running to this day. 264k miles almost
@@JustinJoyinglife this was more of a general comment for folks in the future. Glad your ride is still running. I've got over 230k on mine. Been a good truck!
@@tartansauce4879 I got mine for free because the engine was bad. 02 Ranger. Had an 01 b2300 with a bad transmission. Swapped the engine over and will rebuild the bad one (pretty sure oil pump was the cause but doing a full rebuild) and plan to try to get this ole girl to 1m.
It would have been much easier to get to the water pump bolts if you'd removed the flange by taking out the 3 small bolts, Slacken them off before you take off the belt,
I understand that. Then there's the possibility of needing a pulley puller to pull it off the water pump shaft. So 3 bolts for the pump, 3 bolts for the pulley, pulley puller, then tighten up all 6 bolts. Or take off 3 bolts, 1 gives small issue when recording but zero issue when not, pull the pump, install new one and tighten 3 bolts. And I bet AllData agrees with you on process and execution. I tend to reduce as many steps as possible when not needed. The pump itself was still good (until I broke the housing), the issue was an oversized o-ring letting coolant seep out the side. Just swapped the pump with the one on my spare engine. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate the support.
@@JustinJoyinglife you don't need a pulley puller. They're supposed to come off for changing. But if you can get it without removing the pulley, more power to you my guy. Informative though
@@joemash83 thanks man. I try to keep it as simple as possible. The pump I was replacing it with was complete so there was no need to worry about the pulley. I'm editing an outer tie rods and upper and lower ball joint video right now. Had some files corrupted but I'm still trying to piece it together. Thanks for the view and support. 😊
Great video, I would've never thought to hit it off like that and it worked like a charm for me.
@@n30x1ty thanks for the comment and view. Glad it helped.
I had the whole pulley come off because I couldn't tighten it properly. I chose this video to try to see how and he just says reverse of how you get it off. Thanks a lot lmao
@zotanzero sorry it didn't help. If I remember correctly it was just 3 bolts and I tightened them with wrenches. If you remove the pulley it's easier to tighten the bolts but I didn't have to do that because my replacement was a complete set up. I imagine tightening the pulley bolt would be similar, I prefer wrenches because you can grab a cheater to get more torque if needed.
Thanks for this, I just started hearing some grinding under the hood the other day, opened it up and saw the water pump pulley shaking. She's about to go out, and now I know how to replace it. Thank!
Happy to help. Figured I'd record it and post it in case anyone could use the help. So far some have so I'm glad I did. I'm going to be doing a 04 3.0 swap series too since literally from the dash forward everything needs to be swapped over wiring wise. Going to be a fun headache.
I have a 2003 2.3L 4c 16v. Coolant leakin’ from pulley where water pump is. Bet it’s bad O ring. Probably stretched now. Thank you so much for video and info.
Hopefully the video helped. That's all mine ended up being was an old stretched o ring. Luckily I had a spare on hand to swap straight over.
My water pump pulley froze up and burnt my serpentine belt to nothing. Got off the road just in time and parked in front of a… massage parlor for men that was open at 6pm on a Sunday. We got the belt parts uncoiled from the other pulleys and picked up a water pump. So this video helps a ton.
If you are going to pull over and sit in a parking lot. Try not to do it in front of a strange massage parlor. All the dudes going in stare you down like your a PI their wife sent.
That aside, 283,000 miles on a single water pump. I’m not going to complain.
That's awesome. Glad it helped. My pump went at about 185k on the engine I swapped into the ranger. The rest of it has 264k now. Changed the ball joints and outer tie rods and the rest has been cosmetic. My donor was a 2001 b2300. Love these rangers, even the clone.
I'm happy the video helped and you got back on the road. Thanks for the view and comment. I appreciate you.
Justin...thanks for the vid I'm changing a pump now thought it would be good to see it done first. Again thank you pal for taking the time to make and upload this vid👍👍
No problem man. If you have any other questions on it, feel free to hit me up and I'll make a video. I've got 2 2.3l engines (ones disassembled), one's in my ranger. I'm happy to help and make vids on anything requested if I'm able.
Thanks for viewing and supporting my (very small) channel.
A couple of the bolts a little hard to get to, but looks pretty straight forward. Great video.
Thanks for the comment and view. It really is simple. Fords are usually pretty easy to work on until you get to the newer vehicles.
Thank you so much bud. My ranger tends to get hot i don’t know why. So I’m changing water pump, Coolant and thermostat and hoses and hope for the best. Thanks!
No problem. Glad it was of help. Let me know how it works out. Thanks for the comment and view.
If you take the bolts out of the water pump pulley before you take the belt off you can see the bolts a bunch easier
I understand. However, the replacement pump was complete with a pulley since I pulled it off of my donor engine so pulling 3 pump bolts out was less work that pulling the pulley and then the pump. I like less work when able
@Justin Joyinglife It would've been more work I suppose, but you would've been done a lot faster.
Sub 5 min with a good electric ratchet.
I try to use hand tools as much as possible. Keeps muscles in a usable state. Even little things matter. Same way for the farm I work on. Drives them nuts that I lift instead of using forklifts and wrench instead of using air tools. Just my preference. But thanks for the few and comment. Appreciate you.
Hello man, any other way to put it out, mine is also stuck? you dont have to get the pulley holder?
There's only 3 bolts holding it to the block if I remember. If it's still stuck, you have to knock it loose or pry it loose. I used a rubber mallet and a long pry bar if I remember correctly.
You can remove the pulley but that just gives you easier access to the mounting bolts of the pump. If you're new water pump doesn't have a pulley than it's easiest to pull the pulley while the belt is still on. If the new pump includes a pulley, you don't need to remove it and you save steps
Mine had water in it. Makes me nervous so checking the pump. Radiator seems okay. I want to check the thermostat I'm wondering if there isn't one I did see the temp move just a tiny bit still curious though if it doesn't have one.
A lot of people will just pull a thermostat when there's overheating issues because it's stuck. Also worth the 10-15 bucks to put it back in since you're there anyways. Thanks for the watch and comment.
Thanks buddy!
No problem. Hopefully it helps.
Wouldn't be easier to take the pulley off of the water pump first🤔. Just a question
It could have been. But the replacement was complete with pulley so I figured 3 bolts was less work. Thanks for the view and comment.
take the 3 bolts out that hold the pulley on then you can grab the wp with big channel lock pliers
There wasn't any point. The pump was being swapped with another water pump that was complete. If I had to swap the pulley, I would've removed it but it wasn't a needed step.
it's easier to loosen the pulley bolts before taking the belt off.
I didn't pull the pulley because the waterpump I was putting on had its own pulley on it already. Could've been faster taking the pulley off, but the only real time it took to take it off was trying to film at the same time. Thanks for commenting and watching.
what year and model was this car this info would really help?
The engine in it currently is the Duratec 2.3l out of a 2001 Mazda B2300, but the Ranger itself is a 2002. I guess I should've put the info in every video but didn't think to after it had been introduced to the channel since I went straight into the engine swap. Got the truck for free 😁
Thanks for the información ℹ Valuable!!!
You're welcome. Thanks for the view and comment. I appreciate you.
Take the bolts out of the pulley first. Then you an get at the pump bolts.
I know. But I had a complete replacement so the fewer steps involved, the faster the job. But appreciate the comment and view. 😁
Hello I have water pump new old stock maybe you need. Thanks
I do not but appreciate the offer. Maybe another viewer might need it.
What symptoms were you having? My coolant doesn't seem to flow and I changed the thermostat and radiator fan. So idk whether to change the radiator or water pump next
I had water leaking out of the bottom of my water pump so luckily I had no gremlins to CSI.
If it's not flowing properly I would do a water pump and if it still persists, I'd take it to a shop and have them flush the cooling system under pressure. Let me know how it goes.
@@JustinJoyinglife good deal. Thanks
@@cobrlex_svt2572 no problem. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
@@JustinJoyinglife it's all good no worries
From personal experience, the best way to get the pump out is to remove the bolts, use your channel locks and rotate the pump back and forth. The cylindrical mating surfaces appear to prefer this method more than trying to pry it out since that tends to misalign the surfaces and introduces binding. Just my two cents.
The pump in this video was stuck from the o-ring getting dislodged from its channel which was also the cause of the leak. The spare water pump off my donor engine had zero issues being removed and then placed on this engine. And it's still running to this day. 264k miles almost
@@JustinJoyinglife this was more of a general comment for folks in the future. Glad your ride is still running. I've got over 230k on mine. Been a good truck!
@@tartansauce4879 I got mine for free because the engine was bad. 02 Ranger. Had an 01 b2300 with a bad transmission. Swapped the engine over and will rebuild the bad one (pretty sure oil pump was the cause but doing a full rebuild) and plan to try to get this ole girl to 1m.
Is the temp gauge needle at 70 percent up on the gauge or in the middle
Thanks, great stuff. My water pump is getting pretty noisy.
Hopefully the video helped. Thanks for watching and commenting.
😊
😁
Very helpful
Glad I could help. Thanks for the view and comment.
It would have been much easier to get to the water pump bolts if you'd removed the flange by taking out the 3 small bolts, Slacken them off before you take off the belt,
I understand that. Then there's the possibility of needing a pulley puller to pull it off the water pump shaft. So 3 bolts for the pump, 3 bolts for the pulley, pulley puller, then tighten up all 6 bolts. Or take off 3 bolts, 1 gives small issue when recording but zero issue when not, pull the pump, install new one and tighten 3 bolts. And I bet AllData agrees with you on process and execution. I tend to reduce as many steps as possible when not needed. The pump itself was still good (until I broke the housing), the issue was an oversized o-ring letting coolant seep out the side. Just swapped the pump with the one on my spare engine.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate the support.
@@JustinJoyinglife you don't need a pulley puller. They're supposed to come off for changing. But if you can get it without removing the pulley, more power to you my guy. Informative though
@@joemash83 thanks man. I try to keep it as simple as possible. The pump I was replacing it with was complete so there was no need to worry about the pulley. I'm editing an outer tie rods and upper and lower ball joint video right now. Had some files corrupted but I'm still trying to piece it together. Thanks for the view and support. 😊