I had the same 2012 R1 (just traded in it in for a 2021 R1 this week) and solved the cold start issue by replacing the battery with a Shorai Lithium battery with crazy cranking amps and never had the cold start battery drain issue again. Almost forgot about it until I saw your vid. No more sitting at the gas pump after filling up from a hard ride until the bike cooled down to re-start!!!
@@JT2JZ Got another Raven which was hard to find with low production due to the covid pandemic and its my 4th new R1 in a row since 2008 so addicted to the R1's styling and performance! Loved the 2012 (was lucky to get it at a great deal as a factory left over in the crate in early 2015) and always got thumbs ups from drivers at red lights so get used to the compliments with yours!!!
@@JT2JZ Prefer the 2012's more aggressive nose fairing lines but simply was due for a change in technology. Not a wheelie guy but do like the occasional up off the seat and on the pegs get tucked aggressive ride. To soon to judge which bike is more intuitive, but time will tell :)
I know the feeling. I felt like I was due for a change riding my old 2006 for roughly 4 years. Sometimes just switching things up in general is nice. Big jump in technology for me but I’m pretty impressed so far. I’ve never had anything newer than 2006 believe it or not. After getting some seat time on my 2012 I think it would be really hard going back to anything older.
Very similar issue that I had on my 2002 R1 rn09 - very hard to start, it cranked forever, no matter the ambient temperature. Mechanics said valves out of spec, throttle body, spark plugs etc. etc. When I finally decided to sell it (could no longer ride in this aggressive position - bad joints) when the buyer was like hour away the bike couldn't start at all. I tried some things and figured when I short the solenoid the bike starts no issue. So definitely the culprit - so I changed it and the bike like you said started in like 1-2 seconds lol. So many years with this headache-inducing "issue", luckily I didn't bother to solve it as I would have thrown so much money away on mechanics adjusting stuff and changing parts.
What makes this different from all other videos is you're meticulous with your explaining. It's great you'll actually show where the screws are to remove such as the tank screws and you walked around to show us. A big bang R1 is my dream bike that I hope I'll get in the next 5 years. I currently have a 600 Bandit. I'm definitely subscribing.
Thanks for the kind words and supporting the channel. Keep working towards your goals and you will have a Big Bang R1 in no time! It’s a very realistic goal to have! It took me many years of hard work and patience to find my bike. It’s all worth it in the end when you are grabbing a handful of throttle, entering your first curvy road just listening to every crackle and pop coming from the exhaust of your new baby. I love that one on one feeling of just a rider and his bike with no other distractions. It brings me peace and I hope you get the exact same feeling on your new bike. Cheers brotha
@@JT2JZ thanks for the reply. My concern is the valve job I'll need to do as all the bikes I've seen for sale locally have about 24K miles and basically I'm thinking these people just want to flog their bikes before doing a valve job. Can you give me any tips to look out for when buying a used big bang? Have a fantastic afternoon :)
Checking the valve lash can definitely be a bargaining chip to use on higher mileage bikes. In reality though I think the service is more for peace of mind. I have talked with a Yamaha mechanic before and he said 90% of the bikes that come in for a valve set don’t need any adjustments ( even if they are over the recommended mileage for the service ) he usually adjusts one or two valves just to do something for the customers. I believe him especially after checking the valves on my bike and seeing them basically all perfect. I would look closer at other wear and tear items on the bike. Check fork seals. If they are leaking it may be an indication the bike was stunted / wheelied often. Check brake pads. The brakes on these bikes are massive and usually last a long time unless the bikes are rode hard with a lot of aggressive braking. Tires are a high wear item. Sport bike rear tires usually only last about 5000kms. If the rear has a flat spot you will need one soon. If the front tire has cupping may also be a sign of more wheelies ( but not always ) On Crossplane bikes in specific try and see the bike when it’s been sitting over night 100% cold. If the bike has any starting issues you will notice it on the first cold start of the day. They are very common for weak starters! Also common for timing chain tensioners ( you would only hear a rattle on cold starts ) Lithium ion batteries are a nice upgrade too. You want 280cca or bigger if possible! Anything under 190cca these bikes struggle to start. When I went to buy my Crossplane the owner already had it warmed up. That should have been a warning ⚠️. I had tons of cold starting issues with my bike immediately after I bought it.
@@JT2JZ you're an absolute legend. So does this mean the only engine adjustment that needs to ever be done is valves? I've been reading online, arent the clutches problematic also?
Other than valve adjustments and the timing chain tensioners these 14b engines seem to be pretty stout! I do hear a lot of guys commenting on clutch issues and random noises as well. I think letting the bike warm up before riding and using a good quality oil ( amsoil 10w40 synthetic ) go along way for the clutch operation and noise. The Crossplane engine runs kind of rough and lumpy down around idle rpm and I think this contributes to alot of the noise / vibration and clutch feel. If you are used to a smooth running flatplane bike you may hop on one of these Crossplanes and think there is an issue when it just has some different “normal” operating characteristics. These engines really don’t run smooth under 3000rpm. Even just casually taking off from a stop can feel very lurchy if the rpm isn’t high enough. I always tell guys to put an exhaust on and listen to the awesome pipe sound that thes bikes have. The raw engine / clutch noise these bikes make at low rpm never sound that healthy but they all seem to do it.
Just happened upon your channel and have been watching each episode for fun. Glad to see that the R1 is up and running. Keep up the great content and enjoy the beast!
@@JT2JZlmao sameee. Like I’ve binged watcher every episode backdating 2 years. Lmao maybe not all of them but I just picked up a blue 2011 r1 with 6k miles. For 5k. Fkin scored
@@JT2JZ no still waiting for a ECU to pop up to buy as dont want to buy a new one for 900 unless we have to. alot of work to do still yet on it finish welding painting etc
surprising when u watch these videos and how Yamaha or someone thinks of all this where to put everything, and it all neatly fastens in everywhere & how it all works
My 2012 R1 hated cold starts. I changed starter brushes and balanced the throttle bodies trying to solve the problem. Yamaha was no help at all. Turns out just needed a better battery to crank faster. Lithium is the way to go.
Pretty cool the valves were still in spec cause the book says check them at 26.6k and seems that most people's R1 valves are still in decent shape at that interval. Yamaha makes a high-quality product.
I was surprised as well! Yamaha engines are usually great quality. Riding style may have more of an impact though. My bike has a decent amount of touring / low rpm riding on it. If it was a race bike being used high rpm every single ride it would likely need a valve adjustment at the recommended time I would think.
@@JT2JZ Yea that definitely makes sense. Im getting ready to go look at a matte grey 13 with 2.5k miles, the dealer wants $10.9k. Seems like to me thats the high side of fair...ish.
@@JT2JZ Yea definitely! Sad thing is this dealer is cheaper than private sellers in my area so the F-en guy acts like he's doing me the favor selling it to me at high retail 🤦♂️. I'm gonna have to think about it or hes gonna have to come down. And he's had people in there cause he's cheaper than the crazy private sellers so he's sure it's a deal lol.
Great video and great walk-through 👍... I got the bike 1 week now... and was plaged with this problem ... a nightmare to start ... would drain the battery time and time again trying to start.. Just went right to the solenoid and ...guess what it was far worst than yours... cleaned it and voila ... STARTS AT FIRST TURN 👌👍👍
That’s great news. I’m glad my struggle could help you save some time. If your issue returns you may have to replace the relay. When I cleaned mine it only lasted roughly a month or so before I had to swap it out
From what I saw so far ,this seems to be a common problem on the R1's regarding cold start , I have a 2003 R1 with same problem ,will definitely look into my starter relay next too. Thank you for your video.
So you just had to clean out the starter solenoid thing? I’m having a similar issue rn. Started about 3 days ago. Cold start struggling to turn on but it will. Once it’s up it’s good all day until it’s cold again. I bought a new battery and that didn’t help. Bought a new starter motor and solenoid rn. Hopefully it’s just that. Mine has 19k miles and it’s an 09.
It’s will either be the starter relay / solenoid or the starter it’s self. I ended up doing both on my bike eventually as well. I think the starter was the root cause the whole time. Check out my other starter replacement video and you will see it was in pretty bad shape when I removed it
Thanks man. I know it gets frustrating running into issues! Glad I could help. I’m about to post another video soon. My bike had a click no start issue as well 🙄.
nice man! good info on it, I got an 09 R1 and I love it, have a few mods planned for it as well! (working on the videos now) looking forward to seeing what you will do to yours.
I’m definitely enjoying my crossplane a lot more now that I’m not wrenching on it as much! Time to actually use it and get more fun content. I’ll definitely check out your channel / vids when they are ready. Thanks for the support man. Cheers.
Sounds like you may have starter issues. My starter failed not long after this video. Check out my starter replacement vid to see how bad mine was. The old starter was black & crispy!
The relay fixed my bike for a while. I also had a bad starter later the same season. Check out my starter replacement video if you are curious how bad mine was.
Agreed. I was just nervous of throwing the throttle body sensors out of adjustment. Probably wouldn’t have but didn’t want to risk it. I was basically just looking for consistency not really an exact compression number.
Thanks for the video! Helped me a lot. I am running into issues putting the valve cover on, the gasket keeps getting out of place when trying to reinstall, it easily falls out of its spot on the cover, dont have room enough to get the cover over with cams with the gasket on the cover😅 Any tips?
It’s definitely a very tight fit but it is doable! A lot of wiggling to find that perfect spot. You can try putting a small amount of Vaseline on the valve cover to try and hold the gasket in place. Patients is key.
Intake valves will be a different spec than the exhaust valves due to the difference in temperature they see. I called my dealer to get the correct valve lash numbers for my specific year of bike. The dealer always knows best! You want your valve lash to be roughly in the middle of the high and low spec they give you
@@JT2JZ thanks for the reply dude, I think where the replacement relay had 30amp fuses it blew the main fuse and now it’s throwing a code 12 on the dash 🤦♂️
@RollinThundervlogs I feel your pain. I struggled with my bike and starting issues for a long time as well. The root cause of all my issues was the starter it’s self. You can check out my starter replacement video to see just how bad my starter internals were fried. If I was in your shoes I would probably try a starter draw test. Try and see if it’s using excessive amps when cranking. Starter failures are very common on these bikes unfortunately.
Why would an R1 be hard to cold start? I have never done a thing to my 2012; I let it sit in a freezing garage all winter, have never adjusted the valves etc. And it starts up every time, on first press and within < 1 crank.
I guess I am just lucky finding a bike like this with underlying issues 🤷♂️ I have owned many other older bikes and if I combined the issues from all of them put together i would still have less issues than I have had with my new 2012 crossplane in less than a month of ownership. That’s the risk with buying anything used sometimes.
Keep em coming buddy.. From UK Never had issue starting bike got 2011 R1 but got an issue when I was out riding the dash just switched itself of and lost power the dash keeped flickering on and off as if I was turning the key.. Checked batt and all connections all good any ideas... Recently fitted trans QS been on for a month no issues🤔
I’ve never ran into that issue before. I’d start by checking battery connections like you have already then maybe test power and ground circuits right at the cluster. If all tests ok maybe start looking at aftermarket components added onto the bike.
So I am a ZX10R guy and I have a 2009 R1 I am working on. Basically I just finished the valve adjustment, have the valve cover back on - but I have no idea what sequence the air box and throttle bodies go back together as I did not take them off the bike. Does the throttle bodies go on first before any of the air box?
Yes throttle bodies first. Then bottom half of air box. The plastic intake trumpets go inside the bottom air box half. Hopefully that helps. I have lots of other videos as well tearing into the top end of my bike If you look on my channel. You should be able to see almost everything from some of my older vids. My starter replacement might be a good one.
@@JT2JZ thats outstanding, thanks for the reply dude. Ill get to work on installing the throttle bodies and go from there, and I will reference your other videos. Any videos on how the ram air tubes assemble? If im not mistaken, it looks like if you have block off plates installed, that the air collector (which sits just above the valve cover) is only held in place by the (2) ram air tubes coming in from outside the frame on both sides?
It’s been a year or so since I assembled my bike so it’s hard to remember some of the details. I think you are on the right track though. If you are talking about the bottom of the plastic intake assembly that holds the trumpets inside of it, there are some Alan key bolts holding it in place on the inside. It also connects to the throttle bodies from the outside of the case and keeps it pretty snug.
Starter relay helped for a few months. The starter it’s self was the root cause later that same season. Check out my starter replacement video to see how bad it was cooked.
My Yamaha dealer had both size shims in stock. I was going to bring in an old shim to the dealer and match up the sizes but it turned out I didn’t need any. You can buy kits on Amazon but I am not 100% sure on what size is correct. I think it’s the bigger size shim but don’t take my word on that!
Should go delete my last comment about the starter relay lol did you end up replacing the solenoid or is it still doing good with the di electric grease?
At 11:40, the K mark...do you feel compression when the K mark is lined up with the split in the case, because if you rotate the crank 360 degrees then the compression releases and it lines up on the K. At which rotation of the K do I then set the cams?
@@JT2JZ hey brother sorry to bother you man but would you mind taking a quick look at this timing, this is with full chain tension and the cam caps torqued down. Intake cam looks good just not 100% sure on the exhaust cam: th-cam.com/video/yLQsUkuzIJ0/w-d-xo.html
I checked out your video. I think that exhaust cam is one tooth out. I think you want the dot on the right of the exhaust cam flush with the cover ( not the left side of the exhaust cam ) The intake cam looks correct with the timing mark lined up flush on the left side.
@@JT2JZ you were absolutely right man I kept adjusting the cams, I realized later on I didnt need to remove cams every time I needed to rotate them. I just loosened tensioners and free'd up chain slack and with practice you can rotate the cam in place a tooth or two at a time, all while maintaining solid tension side pressure and also torquing down the exhaust cam first was a huge help in regards to getting all the slack on the slack side. its amazing and rewarding experience for me. thank you for your help. here is a video of it running tonight after the timing was set properly th-cam.com/video/CGzVqf1YQ5Y/w-d-xo.html
She sounds healthy! Nice work man. I agree, I enjoy doing as much work myself as I can. Very rewarding at the end of the day. My latest skill I’m trying to learn is tig welding but it’s more difficult than I originally thought it would be! I really want to start making custom pie cut exhaust systems with stainless steel. Hopefully all the effort now will pay off in the long run.
I had the same 2012 R1 (just traded in it in for a 2021 R1 this week) and solved the cold start issue by replacing the battery with a Shorai Lithium battery with crazy cranking amps and never had the cold start battery drain issue again. Almost forgot about it until I saw your vid. No more sitting at the gas pump after filling up from a hard ride until the bike cooled down to re-start!!!
Nice. That definitely seems to be the go to battery for the crossplanes. How do you like your new bike so far compared to the old generation?
@@JT2JZ Got another Raven which was hard to find with low production due to the covid pandemic and its my 4th new R1 in a row since 2008 so addicted to the R1's styling and performance! Loved the 2012 (was lucky to get it at a great deal as a factory left over in the crate in early 2015) and always got thumbs ups from drivers at red lights so get used to the compliments with yours!!!
I’m definitely enjoying it so far! How do you like the new style R1 compared to your old 2012?
@@JT2JZ Prefer the 2012's more aggressive nose fairing lines but simply was due for a change in technology. Not a wheelie guy but do like the occasional up off the seat and on the pegs get tucked aggressive ride. To soon to judge which bike is more intuitive, but time will tell :)
I know the feeling. I felt like I was due for a change riding my old 2006 for roughly 4 years. Sometimes just switching things up in general is nice. Big jump in technology for me but I’m pretty impressed so far. I’ve never had anything newer than 2006 believe it or not. After getting some seat time on my 2012 I think it would be really hard going back to anything older.
Very similar issue that I had on my 2002 R1 rn09 - very hard to start, it cranked forever, no matter the ambient temperature. Mechanics said valves out of spec, throttle body, spark plugs etc. etc. When I finally decided to sell it (could no longer ride in this aggressive position - bad joints) when the buyer was like hour away the bike couldn't start at all. I tried some things and figured when I short the solenoid the bike starts no issue. So definitely the culprit - so I changed it and the bike like you said started in like 1-2 seconds lol. So many years with this headache-inducing "issue", luckily I didn't bother to solve it as I would have thrown so much money away on mechanics adjusting stuff and changing parts.
Sounds frustrating for sure! I definitely feel your pain.
What makes this different from all other videos is you're meticulous with your explaining. It's great you'll actually show where the screws are to remove such as the tank screws and you walked around to show us.
A big bang R1 is my dream bike that I hope I'll get in the next 5 years. I currently have a 600 Bandit.
I'm definitely subscribing.
Thanks for the kind words and supporting the channel.
Keep working towards your goals and you will have a Big Bang R1 in no time! It’s a very realistic goal to have!
It took me many years of hard work and patience to find my bike. It’s all worth it in the end when you are grabbing a handful of throttle, entering your first curvy road just listening to every crackle and pop coming from the exhaust of your new baby.
I love that one on one feeling of just a rider and his bike with no other distractions. It brings me peace and I hope you get the exact same feeling on your new bike.
Cheers brotha
@@JT2JZ thanks for the reply. My concern is the valve job I'll need to do as all the bikes I've seen for sale locally have about 24K miles and basically I'm thinking these people just want to flog their bikes before doing a valve job.
Can you give me any tips to look out for when buying a used big bang?
Have a fantastic afternoon :)
Checking the valve lash can definitely be a bargaining chip to use on higher mileage bikes. In reality though I think the service is more for peace of mind. I have talked with a Yamaha mechanic before and he said 90% of the bikes that come in for a valve set don’t need any adjustments ( even if they are over the recommended mileage for the service ) he usually adjusts one or two valves just to do something for the customers.
I believe him especially after checking the valves on my bike and seeing them basically all perfect.
I would look closer at other wear and tear items on the bike.
Check fork seals. If they are leaking it may be an indication the bike was stunted / wheelied often.
Check brake pads. The brakes on these bikes are massive and usually last a long time unless the bikes are rode hard with a lot of aggressive braking.
Tires are a high wear item. Sport bike rear tires usually only last about 5000kms. If the rear has a flat spot you will need one soon. If the front tire has cupping may also be a sign of more wheelies ( but not always )
On Crossplane bikes in specific try and see the bike when it’s been sitting over night 100% cold. If the bike has any starting issues you will notice it on the first cold start of the day. They are very common for weak starters!
Also common for timing chain tensioners ( you would only hear a rattle on cold starts )
Lithium ion batteries are a nice upgrade too. You want 280cca or bigger if possible! Anything under 190cca these bikes struggle to start.
When I went to buy my Crossplane the owner already had it warmed up. That should have been a warning ⚠️. I had tons of cold starting issues with my bike immediately after I bought it.
@@JT2JZ you're an absolute legend. So does this mean the only engine adjustment that needs to ever be done is valves?
I've been reading online, arent the clutches problematic also?
Other than valve adjustments and the timing chain tensioners these 14b engines seem to be pretty stout!
I do hear a lot of guys commenting on clutch issues and random noises as well. I think letting the bike warm up before riding and using a good quality oil ( amsoil 10w40 synthetic ) go along way for the clutch operation and noise. The Crossplane engine runs kind of rough and lumpy down around idle rpm and I think this contributes to alot of the noise / vibration and clutch feel.
If you are used to a smooth running flatplane bike you may hop on one of these Crossplanes and think there is an issue when it just has some different “normal” operating characteristics. These engines really don’t run smooth under 3000rpm. Even just casually taking off from a stop can feel very lurchy if the rpm isn’t high enough.
I always tell guys to put an exhaust on and listen to the awesome pipe sound that thes bikes have. The raw engine / clutch noise these bikes make at low rpm never sound that healthy but they all seem to do it.
Just happened upon your channel and have been watching each episode for fun. Glad to see that the R1 is up and running. Keep up the great content and enjoy the beast!
Thanks for the support. I’ll try and get some better content soon!
@@JT2JZlmao sameee. Like I’ve binged watcher every episode backdating 2 years. Lmao maybe not all of them but I just picked up a blue 2011 r1 with 6k miles. For 5k. Fkin scored
Nice find! You got a great deal for sure
Great videos mate, keep it up, I recently got a '14 R1 and i struggle finding stuff for it online, your vids are a big help :)
Thanks for the support. I struggled to find good information as well. Hopefully my videos can help people save money, time and effort.
i found that n all when building a quad with the 14b r1 couldn't find any parts hardly for it took months
Did you finish your quad yet? That would be an awesome unit all said and done. I’d love to see videos if you have any
@@JT2JZ no still waiting for a ECU to pop up to buy as dont want to buy a new one for 900 unless we have to. alot of work to do still yet on it finish welding painting etc
I know the feeling. After building my supra I realized that pretty much any build will take longer and cost more than you want it to.
surprising when u watch these videos and how Yamaha or someone thinks of all this where to put everything, and it all neatly fastens in everywhere & how it all works
There’s a lot of technology packed into a small space that’s for sure!
My 2012 R1 hated cold starts. I changed starter brushes and balanced the throttle bodies trying to solve the problem. Yamaha was no help at all. Turns out just needed a better battery to crank faster. Lithium is the way to go.
Lithium battery and a complete starter ended up fixing my bike as well.
Pretty cool the valves were still in spec cause the book says check them at 26.6k and seems that most people's R1 valves are still in decent shape at that interval. Yamaha makes a high-quality product.
I was surprised as well! Yamaha engines are usually great quality. Riding style may have more of an impact though.
My bike has a decent amount of touring / low rpm riding on it.
If it was a race bike being used high rpm every single ride it would likely need a valve adjustment at the recommended time I would think.
@@JT2JZ Yea that definitely makes sense. Im getting ready to go look at a matte grey 13 with 2.5k miles, the dealer wants $10.9k. Seems like to me thats the high side of fair...ish.
Dealers always ask top dollar. That is extremely low miles though. Might still be a decent buy.
@@JT2JZ Yea definitely! Sad thing is this dealer is cheaper than private sellers in my area so the F-en guy acts like he's doing me the favor selling it to me at high retail 🤦♂️. I'm gonna have to think about it or hes gonna have to come down. And he's had people in there cause he's cheaper than the crazy private sellers so he's sure it's a deal lol.
What a time to be alive ehh? Lol
Great video and great walk-through 👍...
I got the bike 1 week now... and was plaged with this problem ... a nightmare to start ... would drain the battery time and time again trying to start..
Just went right to the solenoid and ...guess what it was far worst than yours... cleaned it and voila ... STARTS AT FIRST TURN 👌👍👍
That’s great news. I’m glad my struggle could help you save some time.
If your issue returns you may have to replace the relay. When I cleaned mine it only lasted roughly a month or so before I had to swap it out
From what I saw so far ,this seems to be a common problem on the R1's regarding cold start , I have a 2003 R1 with same problem ,will definitely look into my starter relay next too. Thank you for your video.
I’m glad I could help. It’s definitely a quick easy place to start anyway. Good luck with the repair.
hey man, did that starter relay fixed your cold start?
It fixed my cold start for a while. I had underlying issues though. My starter completely failed later the same season.
@@JT2JZ many thanks for the info
No problem. Check out my other starter replacement video and you will see how bad it was when I removed it and disassembled.
Completely cooked!
So you just had to clean out the starter solenoid thing? I’m having a similar issue rn. Started about 3 days ago. Cold start struggling to turn on but it will. Once it’s up it’s good all day until it’s cold again. I bought a new battery and that didn’t help. Bought a new starter motor and solenoid rn. Hopefully it’s just that. Mine has 19k miles and it’s an 09.
It’s will either be the starter relay / solenoid or the starter it’s self.
I ended up doing both on my bike eventually as well. I think the starter was the root cause the whole time.
Check out my other starter replacement video and you will see it was in pretty bad shape when I removed it
dude absolutely awesome info. ive been working on my 2012 recently. and my knowledge is minimal these are great vids and content.
Thanks man. I know it gets frustrating running into issues! Glad I could help.
I’m about to post another video soon. My bike had a click no start issue as well 🙄.
nice man! good info on it, I got an 09 R1 and I love it, have a few mods planned for it as well! (working on the videos now) looking forward to seeing what you will do to yours.
I’m definitely enjoying my crossplane a lot more now that I’m not wrenching on it as much! Time to actually use it and get more fun content.
I’ll definitely check out your channel / vids when they are ready.
Thanks for the support man. Cheers.
Any tips on getting your timing correct and spot on? When reassembling
Use a paint pen to mark the timing locations because they are hard to see trying to look around the frame.
My 14b starting up exactly the same, not always on first attempt and especially difficult when it's warmed up to working temperature.
Sounds like you may have starter issues. My starter failed not long after this video.
Check out my starter replacement vid to see how bad mine was. The old starter was black & crispy!
I have the same issue with evem with a lithium battery's. So thanks for the video
The relay fixed my bike for a while. I also had a bad starter later the same season. Check out my starter replacement video if you are curious how bad mine was.
Your compression test must be done effective with throttle wide open while cranking
Agreed. I was just nervous of throwing the throttle body sensors out of adjustment. Probably wouldn’t have but didn’t want to risk it. I was basically just looking for consistency not really an exact compression number.
Thanks for the video! Helped me a lot.
I am running into issues putting the valve cover on, the gasket keeps getting out of place when trying to reinstall, it easily falls out of its spot on the cover, dont have room enough to get the cover over with cams with the gasket on the cover😅 Any tips?
It’s definitely a very tight fit but it is doable! A lot of wiggling to find that perfect spot. You can try putting a small amount of Vaseline on the valve cover to try and hold the gasket in place.
Patients is key.
@@JT2JZ thanks, managed it!
How do you manage to put the valve cover back on? With the gasket and glue?
It’s a tight fit! I just took my time and was very careful. Turned out just fine
Nice video. Why there is fort exhaust 0.21 / 0.25 and 0.23 / 0.27. What is the difference or right gap measure between the two for 09 14 r1?
Intake valves will be a different spec than the exhaust valves due to the difference in temperature they see.
I called my dealer to get the correct valve lash numbers for my specific year of bike. The dealer always knows best!
You want your valve lash to be roughly in the middle of the high and low spec they give you
Awesome vid man, tonnes of info and no bs 🔥👊
Thanks man. Hopefully it helps you out.
Hey bro, I’ve just done this swap, and it blew the 50amp main fuse, did your replacement starter relay have 15 or 30 amp fuses?
I believe mine was 15amp fuses. If you keep blowing fuses it sounds like something is shorting out on your bike.
@@JT2JZ thanks for the reply dude, I think where the replacement relay had 30amp fuses it blew the main fuse and now it’s throwing a code 12 on the dash 🤦♂️
@RollinThundervlogs I feel your pain. I struggled with my bike and starting issues for a long time as well. The root cause of all my issues was the starter it’s self. You can check out my starter replacement video to see just how bad my starter internals were fried.
If I was in your shoes I would probably try a starter draw test. Try and see if it’s using excessive amps when cranking.
Starter failures are very common on these bikes unfortunately.
What’s with the .23-.27?
Seeing first time love from pakistan
Thanks for the support my friend 🙏
I replaced the starter and relay yesterday and it was fine, today too and now after a ride it won’t start up and I’m 30miles away from home smh
Sounds like you may have a weak starter
Greet video !!!
Do you resolve the problem?
It did for a few months. I also had a starter failure shortly after this video that was likely the root cause of my issue
Why would an R1 be hard to cold start? I have never done a thing to my 2012; I let it sit in a freezing garage all winter, have never adjusted the valves etc. And it starts up every time, on first press and within < 1 crank.
I guess I am just lucky finding a bike like this with underlying issues 🤷♂️
I have owned many other older bikes and if I combined the issues from all of them put together i would still have less issues than I have had with my new 2012 crossplane in less than a month of ownership.
That’s the risk with buying anything used sometimes.
Keep em coming buddy.. From UK
Never had issue starting bike got 2011 R1 but got an issue when I was out riding the dash just switched itself of and lost power the dash keeped flickering on and off as if I was turning the key.. Checked batt and all connections all good any ideas... Recently fitted trans QS been on for a month no issues🤔
I’ve never ran into that issue before. I’d start by checking battery connections like you have already then maybe test power and ground circuits right at the cluster.
If all tests ok maybe start looking at aftermarket components added onto the bike.
@@JT2JZ thanks for the reply will look into it again cheees
So I am a ZX10R guy and I have a 2009 R1 I am working on. Basically I just finished the valve adjustment, have the valve cover back on - but I have no idea what sequence the air box and throttle bodies go back together as I did not take them off the bike. Does the throttle bodies go on first before any of the air box?
Yes throttle bodies first. Then bottom half of air box. The plastic intake trumpets go inside the bottom air box half.
Hopefully that helps.
I have lots of other videos as well tearing into the top end of my bike If you look on my channel.
You should be able to see almost everything from some of my older vids. My starter replacement might be a good one.
@@JT2JZ thats outstanding, thanks for the reply dude. Ill get to work on installing the throttle bodies and go from there, and I will reference your other videos. Any videos on how the ram air tubes assemble? If im not mistaken, it looks like if you have block off plates installed, that the air collector (which sits just above the valve cover) is only held in place by the (2) ram air tubes coming in from outside the frame on both sides?
It’s been a year or so since I assembled my bike so it’s hard to remember some of the details. I think you are on the right track though.
If you are talking about the bottom of the plastic intake assembly that holds the trumpets inside of it, there are some Alan key bolts holding it in place on the inside.
It also connects to the throttle bodies from the outside of the case and keeps it pretty snug.
Did you replace the starter solenoid or just cleaned it up ?
Cleaned it. It worked for about a month but ended up replacing it.
Thanks for the video.. 👍👍👍👍👍
No prob
Did you find the problem?
Starter relay / solenoid
So whats the problem??
Starter relay helped for a few months. The starter it’s self was the root cause later that same season.
Check out my starter replacement video to see how bad it was cooked.
where woul;d you order shims from and any idea what the OD of the shims is? 2009 R1 here
My Yamaha dealer had both size shims in stock. I was going to bring in an old shim to the dealer and match up the sizes but it turned out I didn’t need any.
You can buy kits on Amazon but I am not 100% sure on what size is correct. I think it’s the bigger size shim but don’t take my word on that!
@@JT2JZ thanks for reply found out they are 9.48 OD
Good to know! Thanks for sharing
Where would the shim go?
Oh, under the valve?
do you plan on doing some motovlogs?
Ya I’m going to try and get some cool footage with our new gopro360. If the channel gets more popular I will definitely keep doing it.
Should go delete my last comment about the starter relay lol did you end up replacing the solenoid or is it still doing good with the di electric grease?
Dielectric grease didn’t change my issue.
Changing the complete relay did help for a few months before the starter completely failed
What is your mileage on your bike
31500kms. I started having my issues at 26000kms
@@JT2JZ yeah that's when they recommend to check Valves
Surprisingly the valves were not my issue. They were all still in spec.
Root cause of my hard start was the starter it’s self!
At 11:40, the K mark...do you feel compression when the K mark is lined up with the split in the case, because if you rotate the crank 360 degrees then the compression releases and it lines up on the K. At which rotation of the K do I then set the cams?
Cams rotate at half the speed the crank does. It should only line up one way.
@@JT2JZ hey brother sorry to bother you man but would you mind taking a quick look at this timing, this is with full chain tension and the cam caps torqued down. Intake cam looks good just not 100% sure on the exhaust cam: th-cam.com/video/yLQsUkuzIJ0/w-d-xo.html
I checked out your video. I think that exhaust cam is one tooth out. I think you want the dot on the right of the exhaust cam flush with the cover ( not the left side of the exhaust cam )
The intake cam looks correct with the timing mark lined up flush on the left side.
@@JT2JZ you were absolutely right man I kept adjusting the cams, I realized later on I didnt need to remove cams every time I needed to rotate them. I just loosened tensioners and free'd up chain slack and with practice you can rotate the cam in place a tooth or two at a time, all while maintaining solid tension side pressure and also torquing down the exhaust cam first was a huge help in regards to getting all the slack on the slack side. its amazing and rewarding experience for me. thank you for your help. here is a video of it running tonight after the timing was set properly th-cam.com/video/CGzVqf1YQ5Y/w-d-xo.html
She sounds healthy! Nice work man. I agree, I enjoy doing as much work myself as I can. Very rewarding at the end of the day.
My latest skill I’m trying to learn is tig welding but it’s more difficult than I originally thought it would be!
I really want to start making custom pie cut exhaust systems with stainless steel.
Hopefully all the effort now will pay off in the long run.
Being border line on the loose side is actually better
Why is that?
Go ahead and get a new battery, the best battery you can find, its going to need it.
Ya these bikes definitely like bigger batteries than traditional flat plane bikes.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🥰
I swear sometimes it seems like japanese bikes are very unreliable
Ya sometimes it’s just bad luck.
I’ve had good luck on most of my Japanese bikes. I guess I was due
Great video!!!! 💯👌🏾
Thanks brotha
😘😘👍👍👍👍
👌