Spent the last 12 months trying to improve the overall ability of the Thunder 35 to get it to work well as an ACCURATE clip on. Couple of things. Don't know about the Factory adapter clap but my experience with the Rusan is YES your best to leave the clap on the end of your scope all the time. To get the best out of a clip on by being able to use it on different rifles your best to get another clamp for the other rifle than removing it from on rifle to another. I have found that as a whole unit it never seems to refits to the degree you could call it accurate but by leaving the adaptor[s] on so you can use your day scopes as normal but when wanting to go thermal by screwing the thermal to the fitted adapter it reduces that element of variation. Secondly I'm finding that its also viable to turn the crosshairs off on the thermal and just use the scope crosshairs but there has been a small variation of your point of impact that requires the scope [not the thermal] to be adjusted but only a few clips and if you take note of the clicks require you can easily alter your scope back for its POINT OF IMPACT.
Verry good points totally agree with leaving the russan adapters on the scopes. The cross hairs on the thermal can be turned off in not in use as a dedicated scope i do rub the scope cross hair not thermal my unit was out about 2 to 3 ft strait from the box had an interesting time rectifying the issue
Hi Travis thanks for the video I can get my thermal into image calibration mode with x and y values displayed ok but can’t get to menu to show horizon line or any reticle Any ideas what I’m doing wrong?
From memory the horizontal line was on another setting and the x & y was the x2 bottons its been quite some time since i played around with it i sold it months back.
Thanks for the video. Appreciate it.. So when your lining it up. Are u putting both sets of cross hairs together. Or just adjusting it to fit into your day scope view. It Mite be Easier when I have mine setup
Just getting your horizon line set then you just adjust the thermal to your scope as if you were zeroing your scop to ur rifle just the other way around
@@TRAV30387found this online is this how it’s done. When it comes to zeroing the clip-on, it’s slightly more complicated. Firstly, you zero your day scope in the normal manner, then once the clip-on is in place you take a shot and use the image calibration option to put the crosshairs over the impact point. At this point, both the day scope and the Thunder should be aligned and will share the same zero as the day scope.
ay trav, you still like your thermal clip on mate? the new thunder 3.0 clip on is coming out end of month. im thinking of getting one. you been happy with yours since you made this video? would you rather go a dedicated scope? the clip on just seems way more practical. I also find it interesting because your essentially shooting through a tv screen, with your rifle scope thats alright sighted. its weird that it shifts its point of impact. Ive seen videos on the pulsar krypton and they say "no sighting in neccesarry". Its weird.
So once you have Zeroed the clip on for let’s say 75meters but now your target is at 200 meters and you’ve got to increase the rifle scope elevation, do you have to repeat the zeroing with the clip on or does it match your scope elevation automaticly?
Hey mate tired to site my clip on in had no luck. Could hit paper with it. Lined up the horizontal line to start with. Kept moving the screen around.. are u meat to start at like 10-20m 1st to try hit paper n keep adjusting as u move back slowly??
I put my horizon line right on my cross hair it was way of about 2 m to the left looked thru my scope was bang on looked down the barrel was way of so what i did was set the target and that point of impack and adjusted to hit that point my horizon line had to b adjusted low about half way from the center to the bottom and then use the y & x axis to compensate its a painfull process also leave you adapter on you scope and wind the thermal of and on the zero will stay more true
@@TRAV30387 yea I lined mine up to the horizon line on my scope. But had no luck guess if I hit paper I’d be able to line it up more. I also tried with turning on the x hairs on thermal n lines it up that way. Took a shoot and nothing then thermal cross hairs was out of line with the scope.. so I’m back to the drawing board to try work this out, I go away next week won’t b using it as a clip on.. just as spotter scope for this 1..
Hello I have one question that means when I shoot and fix everything at 100m, and then take off the device, if I don't return it exactly to the position it was in, it won't hit properly. how did you solve it? thanks
Hi Travis, Don't know what i'm doing wrong, but I get to the y&x axis but the whole screen moves but not the recticle. When I try and hit the menu button to get to other options (the recticle to line up) it goes back to veiw mode, there all it does is up arrow saves jpeg and left arrow changes thermal color. What am i doing wrong here?
The Hikmicro instruction manual for a cheetah I just got, is ridiculously bad, Good to see some tips posted, thanks.
Spent the last 12 months trying to improve the overall ability of the Thunder 35 to get it to work well as an ACCURATE clip on.
Couple of things. Don't know about the Factory adapter clap but my experience with the Rusan is YES your best to leave the clap on the end of your scope all the time.
To get the best out of a clip on by being able to use it on different rifles your best to get another clamp for the other rifle than removing it from on rifle to another.
I have found that as a whole unit it never seems to refits to the degree you could call it accurate but by leaving the adaptor[s] on so you can use your day scopes as normal but when wanting to go thermal by screwing the thermal to the fitted adapter it reduces that element of variation.
Secondly I'm finding that its also viable to turn the crosshairs off on the thermal and just use the scope crosshairs but there has been a small variation of your point of impact that requires the scope [not the thermal] to be adjusted but only a few clips and if you take note of the clicks require you can easily alter your scope back for its POINT OF IMPACT.
Verry good points totally agree with leaving the russan adapters on the scopes. The cross hairs on the thermal can be turned off in not in use as a dedicated scope i do rub the scope cross hair not thermal my unit was out about 2 to 3 ft strait from the box had an interesting time rectifying the issue
Hi Travis thanks for the video
I can get my thermal into image calibration mode with x and y values displayed ok but can’t get to menu to show horizon line or any reticle
Any ideas what I’m doing wrong?
From memory the horizontal line was on another setting and the x & y was the x2 bottons its been quite some time since i played around with it i sold it months back.
Thanks for the video. Appreciate it.. So when your lining it up. Are u putting both sets of cross hairs together. Or just adjusting it to fit into your day scope view. It Mite be Easier when I have mine setup
Just getting your horizon line set then you just adjust the thermal to your scope as if you were zeroing your scop to ur rifle just the other way around
@@TRAV30387found this online is this how it’s done. When it comes to zeroing the clip-on, it’s slightly more complicated. Firstly, you zero your day scope in the normal manner, then once the clip-on is in place you take a shot and use the image calibration option to put the crosshairs over the impact point. At this point, both the day scope and the Thunder should be aligned and will share the same zero as the day scope.
Basically the same thing i just tryed to keep it simple
Have you done a video for the new thunder pro 2 50 clip on for sighting in.
No mate
How does this setup work if you want to use a ballistic turret on the optical scope to change the shooting distance from say 100 to 200 meters?
This im unsure of
Unfortunately no one else has that explains and demonstrates how todo it
ay trav, you still like your thermal clip on mate? the new thunder 3.0 clip on is coming out end of month. im thinking of getting one. you been happy with yours since you made this video? would you rather go a dedicated scope? the clip on just seems way more practical. I also find it interesting because your essentially shooting through a tv screen, with your rifle scope thats alright sighted. its weird that it shifts its point of impact. Ive seen videos on the pulsar krypton and they say "no sighting in neccesarry". Its weird.
Hey mate ive long got rid of it my thoughts are id prefer a dedicated scope i havent been out for a shoot in quite some time.
So once you have Zeroed the clip on for let’s say 75meters but now your target is at 200 meters and you’ve got to increase the rifle scope elevation, do you have to repeat the zeroing with the clip on or does it match your scope elevation automaticly?
Baisicly i just had mine zeroed for 100m so i would just adj my aim slighlty higher
Hey mate tired to site my clip on in had no luck. Could hit paper with it. Lined up the horizontal line to start with. Kept moving the screen around.. are u meat to start at like 10-20m 1st to try hit paper n keep adjusting as u move back slowly??
I put my horizon line right on my cross hair it was way of about 2 m to the left looked thru my scope was bang on looked down the barrel was way of so what i did was set the target and that point of impack and adjusted to hit that point my horizon line had to b adjusted low about half way from the center to the bottom and then use the y & x axis to compensate its a painfull process also leave you adapter on you scope and wind the thermal of and on the zero will stay more true
I sighted mine in at about 80m also
@@TRAV30387 yea I lined mine up to the horizon line on my scope. But had no luck guess if I hit paper I’d be able to line it up more. I also tried with turning on the x hairs on thermal n lines it up that way. Took a shoot and nothing then thermal cross hairs was out of line with the scope.. so I’m back to the drawing board to try work this out, I go away next week won’t b using it as a clip on.. just as spotter scope for this 1..
Hello
I have one question
that means when I shoot and fix everything at 100m, and then take off the device, if I don't return it exactly to the position it was in, it won't hit properly.
how did you solve it?
thanks
Hi Travis, do you just set the x and y axis at zero each?
Yes mate you can get you're adjustments that way
Hi Travis, Don't know what i'm doing wrong, but I get to the y&x axis but the whole screen moves but not the recticle. When I try and hit the menu button to get to other options (the recticle to line up) it goes back to veiw mode, there all it does is up arrow saves jpeg and left arrow changes thermal color. What am i doing wrong here?
Thats right the screen moves from memory you just press the 2 bottons again after setting it up sight your rifle in whil moving picture
what magnification will it work upto?
Up to 5 to 7 any more its not good
When using the other mount bracket and not the Russian clip on.. you will always have the same setting when fixing to your scope
Correct tho some adjustments made be needed just like when you remove a scope
Will this handle recoil from say a .270
Chat to hunt the night mate im not sure
@@TRAV30387 went with a monocular got the CH35L hikmicro condor series , I didn’t buy a clip on too much bad reviews about trouble holding a zero
Instead of that much hassle don't u think laser bore sight used while mounted both on the gun would have made it easy 🤔
A good explanation in a bad video. Better to do it with the window OPEN.
All this kit looks ridiculous in my opinion now you can get day night scope far better than all this kit put together.hope you not get offended
Im not i got rid of it due to issues trying to zero it was good once it was done