Over the years I've replaced these at least four times (since '94). Every time I replace one I order another just to have one on hand for a quick repair. Their easy to order but I don't like waiting. These riding Snappers are such great machines it's worth the effort it takes to keep fixing them. Nice video.
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! I followed your directions exactly! I installed a new drive disc and put on a new blade and it's like I bought a brand new mower! THANK YOU! I bought the disc on eBay for $14.00 and the blade for $16.00. I asked my local mower shop what it would cost to have this work done? They said $189.00! If I ever see you in a bar...drinks on me partner!
I replace mine every year. I'm pretty hard on shifting and mow in reverse quite a bit, going back and forth, so it wears out quickly. Thanks for the video. I always go back and watch it before I change it out as a reminder.
Haha, I tear mine up and do the clutch once a year as well. Have you disengaged the reverse safety switch? Makes it a lot easier to go from FWD to REV. Great for making straight lines.
I was just given a snapper with that same setup. She needs that and a few more little adjustments here and there but she'll cut some grass lol. Thank you for sharing this, I honestly thought it was going to be a pain doing it but it looks so simple to do. Appreciate you brother.
Thanks for the video. I see you've heard that about 40 times, but I wanted to add to the list. One thing I'd like to add. It didn't take long to repair the disc, but I had some other work to do, so I just left it on end overnight. There's often a sticker on the battery telling you that if you're going to keep the mower on end for 2 hours or more (another website said 45 minutes), you should remove the battery. I did not, and you can probably start to imagine how that turned out. Yep, a wet path from the negative side of the battery, dripping onto everything between the battery and the floor, and then continuing 4 or 5 feet to the drain. A lot of baking soda/water mixture later and I finally neutralized the acid. Wow! Such a nice white streak on my garage floor! Local Snapper guy said the battery would probably be OK, but that I may need to add some water to the cell. Fortunately he had replaced the battery fairly recently, so it should still have a long life.
I recently acquired an old Snapper Series 6 riding mower with the exact same problem but it appears that someone already attempted to replace the drive disc which is all loose. So, I just ordered the correct part # with the brake liner in hopes that it fixes the stalling issue. The one that is currently on there looks like it might be backwards since I can see the little brake mechanism, but buts me. Thanks for posting this video.
Those units will make short work of acres of grass. Mine is a 10 hp Briggs, 30" Ninja bladed grass cuttin demon. 2002 model that operates as new. I just mulch it and it works quite well. Grease the zerks while you're under there. A little normal maintenance and those mowers will give years of good service, SNAPPER #1 !
Yeah, mine is slipping on inclines also. Thanks for the video. Always goes better when you have an idea what to expect before you start your project. Thanks!
I bought a used model 25066 where there was no rubber left at all so it was metal to metal, I ordered one from the jungle website and when I went to install it the inside diameter was too big and the overall diameter is wrong so it contacts the drive disc all the time, it was the right part number so I'm going to try a Briggs and Stratton or a stens disc, I got a good deal on the mower with the bagger, 35 bucks for both, it just needs some TLC, it's the older style with the handle bars and a 25 inch deck, the engine runs good after I cleaned the carb bowl of a gallon or two of water and also the gas tank but overall it's in good condition, the bagger alone is worth it, some people call it the Forest Gump mower, I already have a newer one with the 28 inch deck but I needed the bagger which is impossible to get used anymore.
Sir, I am very grateful for the videos and information you provide. You do an excellent job producing your videos and present information in a clear, concise , and easily understandable way. You provide a service that is invaluable to me and I am sure to many others. God bless you!!
Great vid, try not to bend that spacer bar. It keeps the fenders aligned so the axel doesn't get crooked. I use an impact wrench, nuts break loose fine without holding the wheel or bending that spacer bar.
I suggest when you replace these drive tires you replace that fiber cardboard spacer also, as that wears thin it will allow the drive tire to shift more and more side to side thus creating more wear on the drive tire, it's lining and possibly creating more vibration. Just imagine the cardboard spacer as space between your car wheel when the car wheel lug nuts are not completely run down, loose.
i drilled out the drive wheel and put 5 bolts through the drive wheel and into the 5 holes on the clutch disk and threw the cover plate and thrust washers in the trash, old school bolted clutch just like the old snappers that pull wheelies :) no more smooth engagement needed
On a new drive disk that pulls fine, you should be able to tow slash drive as follows. My 33" pulls my fat ass at 275lbs, my towed behind 48" aerator at say 80lbs, another 240lbs in cinder blocks plus my wife at say 125lbs sitting on the blocks. And do all this up slight hills. That's an additional 720 lbs added to the mower.
make it easier to keep wheel from spinning when taking off the four nuts . use a socket on center nut and use a wrench to loosen or tighten the four nuts that hold the clutch on.
I’ve seen the same wear on the discs from other TH-cams, including mine. Does anyone know what does this cracking type damage? Just curious. I’m thinking. Since the main plate is unprotected, maybe this damage is caused by rocks and grit getting caught between the clutch surface and the plate???
Was your back wheels on your snapper turning freely before you replaced the disc. My mower just stopped and wheels are just freely spinning in all gears. Not grabbing.
Soooo I'm trying to do this replacement on on my LT12.....the area to work in and extremely tight. Anybody have tips on getting into there? I have to get the small screws loose right? Not the big center one.?
Hi,... Was your inner green clutch material glued in or separate ? I replaced a clutch disc before but this second one I bought the clutch material came loose in the package,... I don't know if I need to glue it or if it binds itself ?
Same here. I now only buy the discs with the inside liner permanently attached. I installed one with the inside liner loosely in there and it very quickly failed.
Do not buy the replacement part with the blue insert that is unattached inside the disc. They won't last. It might be a few dollars more, but I now always buy drive discs that have the interior material permanently adhered to the disc.
Same here. I bought two of these but the lining just spins inside the drum of the disk. What adhesive could I use for this? Grass is getting tall and I'm running outta time. Maybe I'll get some sheep. Thanks.
Sometimes if you DON'T turn off the fuel line between the tank & carb the fuel will flood the engine, even run into the crankcase & mix with the oil so when you try to crank it gives the impression the engine is locked up, IF this is the case remove the plug, let it air out dry out, drain the oil, replace with clean oil, then go back & put a new plug in.
Ok dude, that is not the drive disc.....Its the driven disc!!!!! The drive disc is the one attached to the crank shaft of the engine....Teach what you know, not what you don't know.
The part he installed is also commonly referred to as the drive disc. Pause the video at 44 seconds, enlarge it to full screen, and you can see it printed right on the bag the part came in. Comment on what you know, not on what you don't know.
Over the years I've replaced these at least four times (since '94). Every time I replace one I order another just to have one on hand for a quick repair. Their easy to order but I don't like waiting. These riding Snappers are such great machines it's worth the effort it takes to keep fixing them.
Nice video.
They are!! And i like to tell myself its like my Formula 1 car lawn mower...with the engine in the rear 🤣🤣🤣
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! I followed your directions exactly! I installed a new drive disc and put on a new blade and it's like I bought a brand new mower! THANK YOU! I bought the disc on eBay for $14.00 and the blade for $16.00. I asked my local mower shop what it would cost to have this work done? They said $189.00! If I ever see you in a bar...drinks on me partner!
I replace mine every year. I'm pretty hard on shifting and mow in reverse quite a bit, going back and forth, so it wears out quickly. Thanks for the video. I always go back and watch it before I change it out as a reminder.
Haha, I tear mine up and do the clutch once a year as well. Have you disengaged the reverse safety switch? Makes it a lot easier to go from FWD to REV. Great for making straight lines.
@@cumbis123 yes I did. I mow quite a bit in reverse for the same reason.
I was just given a snapper with that same setup. She needs that and a few more little adjustments here and there but she'll cut some grass lol. Thank you for sharing this, I honestly thought it was going to be a pain doing it but it looks so simple to do. Appreciate you brother.
Thanks for the video. I see you've heard that about 40 times, but I wanted to add to the list. One thing I'd like to add. It didn't take long to repair the disc, but I had some other work to do, so I just left it on end overnight. There's often a sticker on the battery telling you that if you're going to keep the mower on end for 2 hours or more (another website said 45 minutes), you should remove the battery. I did not, and you can probably start to imagine how that turned out. Yep, a wet path from the negative side of the battery, dripping onto everything between the battery and the floor, and then continuing 4 or 5 feet to the drain. A lot of baking soda/water mixture later and I finally neutralized the acid. Wow! Such a nice white streak on my garage floor! Local Snapper guy said the battery would probably be OK, but that I may need to add some water to the cell. Fortunately he had replaced the battery fairly recently, so it should still have a long life.
I recently acquired an old Snapper Series 6 riding mower with the exact same problem but it appears that someone already attempted to replace the drive disc which is all loose. So, I just ordered the correct part # with the brake liner in hopes that it fixes the stalling issue. The one that is currently on there looks like it might be backwards since I can see the little brake mechanism, but buts me. Thanks for posting this video.
Sage Mechanical advice... (removes a part then says) " you need to keep that, don't through it away"!!! Great video. Way to pay it forward.
If you need help preparing your snapper go to Jim's fix-it shop on TH-cam he has a whole series of snapper videos
Those units will make short work of acres of grass. Mine is a 10 hp Briggs, 30" Ninja bladed grass cuttin demon. 2002 model that operates as new. I just mulch it and it works quite well. Grease the zerks while you're under there. A little normal maintenance and those mowers will give years of good service,
SNAPPER #1 !
Yeah, mine is slipping on inclines also. Thanks for the video. Always goes better when you have an idea what to expect before you start your project. Thanks!
Thank you. A good, simple video that will really help me. I have an SR1028 also, that I really like. I want to keep it going til the end.
I bought a used model 25066 where there was no rubber left at all so it was metal to metal, I ordered one from the jungle website and when I went to install it the inside diameter was too big and the overall diameter is wrong so it contacts the drive disc all the time, it was the right part number so I'm going to try a Briggs and Stratton or a stens disc, I got a good deal on the mower with the bagger, 35 bucks for both, it just needs some TLC, it's the older style with the handle bars and a 25 inch deck, the engine runs good after I cleaned the carb bowl of a gallon or two of water and also the gas tank but overall it's in good condition, the bagger alone is worth it, some people call it the Forest Gump mower, I already have a newer one with the 28 inch deck but I needed the bagger which is impossible to get used anymore.
Sir, I am very grateful for the videos and information you provide. You do an excellent job producing your videos and present information in a clear, concise , and easily understandable way. You provide a service that is invaluable to me and I am sure to many others. God bless you!!
Thanks. Been putting this job off for a while. Seems fairly easy.
This helped me, I looked at it and it looked ridiculously simple, your video confirmed that, thanks
take a look at my vids
My rider will not go up slight inclines so now I know how to fix it. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for the video. Man, the price has really gone up on that part. The cheapest I can find is 26 bucks. It's like 70 bucks most sites I check.
Great vid, try not to bend that spacer bar. It keeps the fenders aligned so the axel doesn't get crooked. I use an impact wrench, nuts break loose fine without holding the wheel or bending that spacer bar.
I suggest when you replace these drive tires you replace that fiber cardboard spacer also, as that wears thin it will allow the drive tire to shift more and more side to side thus creating more wear on the drive tire, it's lining and possibly creating more vibration. Just imagine the cardboard spacer as space between your car wheel when the car wheel lug nuts are not completely run down, loose.
i drilled out the drive wheel and put 5 bolts through the drive wheel and into the 5 holes on the clutch disk and threw the cover plate and thrust washers in the trash, old school bolted clutch just like the old snappers that pull wheelies :) no more smooth engagement needed
2:58 the ole leverage trick, I remember when someone showed me that, it was a real help
On a new drive disk that pulls fine, you should be able to tow slash drive as follows. My 33" pulls my fat ass at 275lbs, my towed behind 48" aerator at say 80lbs, another 240lbs in cinder blocks plus my wife at say 125lbs sitting on the blocks. And do all this up slight hills. That's an additional 720 lbs added to the mower.
Very good presentation. I believe I can do it now. Thanks.
kindly, I wanted to know if it is important or not for good operation to replace the thin and light disk, or it is not important.
Thanks for the video buddy. Exactly what I needed
Good ol' boy- good ol' video. Thanks
make it easier to keep wheel from spinning when taking off the four nuts . use a socket on center nut and use a wrench to loosen or tighten the four nuts that hold the clutch on.
60 years old & I got to change one. I was quoted 75.00 + got to take it to them. Thanx, Marcus
Mine was a real bear to lift onto it's back this time. I guess I'm not getting any younger.
Do you know the part number and can I get it on Amazon?
Thanks for video, very helpful
Great simple video. Thank you!
Sure that one will come apart also. I got a generic replacement, didn't last 1 season. Get one that has SNAPPER on packaging.
whats the part number Jim?
How do you adjust the belt if it is too loose
I would add blue lock tight to those bolts
I’ve seen the same wear on the discs from other TH-cams, including mine. Does anyone know what does this cracking type damage? Just curious. I’m thinking. Since the main plate is unprotected, maybe this damage is caused by rocks and grit getting caught between the clutch surface and the plate???
My guess would be heat.
Was your back wheels on your snapper turning freely before you replaced the disc. My mower just stopped and wheels are just freely spinning in all gears. Not grabbing.
Thanks I for got how it went back together
you need to use locktite red on the bolts before you put the nuts on or they will come off also where are the lock washers....VERY IMPORTANT....WCH
Soooo I'm trying to do this replacement on on my LT12.....the area to work in and extremely tight. Anybody have tips on getting into there? I have to get the small screws loose right? Not the big center one.?
Where did u get the tires on your snapper. I have been looking for this style of tire.
Thank - That helped me a ton brother!!!
Thanks for the video mate!
Recommend a Long Breaker bar, as the use of the ratchet like that can break a ratchet.. just fyi.
Hi,... Was your inner green clutch material glued in or separate ?
I replaced a clutch disc before but this second one I bought the clutch material came loose in the package,... I don't know if I need to glue it or if it binds itself ?
Same here. I now only buy the discs with the inside liner permanently attached. I installed one with the inside liner loosely in there and it very quickly failed.
just got one ...was worrying about the drive disk ...looks like a walk in the park no biggy after all
Those bolts will come off very easily if you spray them with WD40 and let it soak for about an hour.
Do not buy the replacement part with the blue insert that is unattached inside the disc. They won't last. It might be a few dollars more, but I now always buy drive discs that have the interior material permanently adhered to the disc.
Same here. I bought two of these but the lining just spins inside the drum of the disk. What adhesive could I use for this? Grass is getting tall and I'm running outta time. Maybe I'll get some sheep. Thanks.
Thanks!
Thanks for the the video but did you have any trouble starting your mower with it tilted like that?
Sometimes if you DON'T turn off the fuel line between the tank & carb the fuel will flood the engine, even run into the crankcase & mix with the oil so when you try to crank it gives the impression the engine is locked up, IF this is the case remove the plug, let it air out dry out, drain the oil, replace with clean oil, then go back & put a new plug in.
Use a half inch socket and vice grips. Easy fix.
Vehicle?????
use a hammer to break bolts loose
misleading title, this is the friction ring, not the drive disc. the drive disc is attached the motor.
Commonly referred to as the drive disc.
@@randyp5521 Exactly.
Ok dude, that is not the drive disc.....Its the driven disc!!!!! The drive disc is the one attached to the crank shaft of the engine....Teach what you know, not what you don't know.
The part he installed is also commonly referred to as the drive disc. Pause the video at 44 seconds, enlarge it to full screen, and you can see it printed right on the bag the part came in. Comment on what you know, not on what you don't know.
@@bryanhill3710 Its being driven!!!! Driven disc!!!!
Thanks!