Boat Transom Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
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This is an in depth video of how to replace a boat transom. This took a lot of time to figure out how to do everything correctly. The boat is a 1986 Lund Predator and it can be viewed on many of my other videos. Hope this helps if you plan do something similar. Thanks for watching!
![[EP11] Fibreglass Boat Transom Replacement From The Outside](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3UtyT2riV2U/mqdefault.jpg)
This Sir, is how you make a how to video!!! Thank you! I'm about to do this to my boat.
+Tali- Wacker thanks don't forget to subscribe!
Was it hard to do?
@@slickrickjones no, not really. Took a lot of time measuring and lots of layers of resin and fiberglass. Took me a weekend to get it right.
I have a 1983 Sylvan Sportster 16ft. Your video was very helpful in replacing my transom. Mine looked almost identical with the exception the nuts on the tie down loops were accessible from inside the boat. After finishing the transom I decided to paint the boat so its been an all winter project. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Got to love that hoist set up
Your video was just what I needed to start my transom replacement project last weekend. Thank you!!!
Nice work. I thought I was going to take off ALL the rivets along the whole transom. Thanks a lot for your help 👍👍
Happy to help!
NICE WORK the only thing I would have done differently is coat all sides of the new wood with a good quality epoxy resin to seal it.
Great explanation. I have a 1986 Grumman 16' center console with a 50 hp Evenrude......it's been sitting in my yard for a few years and that just accelerated the floor rot. I have to replace the floor and guarantee the transom also. Good winter project I'm pretty sure I can get this boat repaired for next year. Thanks you.
You can definitely do it! Get that boat back to it's former glory!
Been looking for this information for a while now. Most repair shops I've talked to about this are not willing to do the work. The one that is interested want's 1400 to do it.
135.00 of marine grade plywood, the rest is labor. My transom like yours is a riveted boat, the motor was rear ended by an impatient young driver 10+ years ago. I've used the boat ever since but I know the plywood is broken in the transom judging by the slight bend in the transom. This vid really helps!!
Thx
Happy to help!
@@OutdoorsmanChannel another question, notice you didn't remove the livewell intake nor the boat drain. Where those inlets originally below the woods' height?
@Paul T Yup. They are below the wood height. If you look at the transom from inside the boat you can see it pretty well. Just the sheet of aluminum.
Nice video. When I saw the transom on my new G3 boat was made out of aluminum I stopped shopping for a new boat immediately and bought it.👍
That's sweet. I had no idea they were made out of aluminum. We have a fiberglass boat now.
Sweet video. I keep pestering my wife to agree to building a new (detached) garage here so I can restore an old Lund, to go with my current 2022 Impact 1875. I'd love a tiller boat.
Great video. I'm getting ready to do my 1999 Lund. This was very helpful
@deere3321 thanks! Goodluck and comment if you have questions.
im going to have to do this with my 89 hewes craft, this video was a big help, thank you
Thank you for the vid. I just bought a 1986 Lund Tyee 4.9 from an older guy I know. He took very good care of it, and I got it for a very fair price. I was sweating a bit as I learned the transom should be redone, but had no idea at how involved it would be. This is helping me learn that its doable, and I won't have to spend hundreds of dollars at the marine shop to fix it.
Glad to help! Boats are a lot of work but the wnd result is worth it. Don't forget to subscribe!
Good luck. You can do it
Huge thanks to outdoorsman channel for a great video!! After watching this video I decided to do my 2001 mr pike 17. I chose not to use wood, I was able to get the HDP transom from Lund. I am totally against wood in water. It did cost $600. It came cut to fit and the holes for the splash well drains and the tie down u-bolts were drilled. Perfect fit believe it or not!! Any questions I’d be happy to help. Thanks again to outdoorsman channel for the push!! 👌
Erick Schroeder glad to help! Dont forget to subscribe!
How did u get one from lund? I have a 2001 Angler SS thinking my transom is shot also
@@twall667 Hi Thomas. I just found the closest Lund dealer in the area and ordered it. All they needed was hull ID number. Like I said splashwell holes and tie down U bolt holes were already drilled. That gave me perfect location for the transom. By far the best investment! Good luck!
I have to say it was genius the way you used your ladder to remove the motor.
Thanks. I didn't want to spend any money on a lift. I am a close associate of the outdoorsman channel. The dad.
Ps. Please subscribe. Thanks
Looks like a great job😊 funny how people whant to rebuild better than manufacturing does .
Thanks for that excellent comment. The repair was better than the original which lasted for many years. I think that repair will probably outlast the rest of the boat. Wood was a well know material to the repair crew, namely me. We have since traded up to a much bigger fiberglass boat. Joe
Looks like your transom came out really good!!!
I just finished a floor and transom replace on an old Avanti boat that My wife inherited from her dad. The ply wood was much worse than yours was. But mine sat full of water for several years before we got it and then it sat under water for several days when Hurricane Harvey came through a few months back.
It was quite a job. I had to take the top half of the boat off and completely disassemble everything. I used plywood and fiberglass. I nearly have it ready to put the motor back on and get it hooked back up. I have a short picture show of the first part of it on my channel.
Thanks so much for posting this video. So helpful. I have an '89 Alumacraft with the same issue. It is nice to see a preview of things to come. Couple things I didn't even consider. Thanks again
+Keith Terry No problem. Glad to help. Don't forget to subscribe!
Keith Terry before you do anything, look up seacast, coosa board and polyesther resin/glass mat....do not put raw wood of any type in a transom....
Oh man, I just bought an 89 Alumacraft for a project as well. ;-)
I so appreciate your hard work on the transom. I would like to point out to you that while you had the ply in the boat and were readying to scribe your mark to cut it I saw the upper edges on the starboard side had some voids in them. You were going to cut them out but I've got to tell you that A/B Marine Ply does not allow for inner core voids. That is the only difference between "Marine" grade plywood and any old plain exterior plywood or interior grade for that matter. All plywood is glued together with the same glue. The only differences are the face grades on each side and solid inner ply or not. For a transom using anything better than A/C is just a waste of money IMO especially if you're glassing over it. Marine grade ply is normally used on hulls where you need full inner ply to withstand rock strikes and the like, not necessarily for transom work. I only mention cause I've heard everyone is using Marine grade for their transoms at $ 100 bucks more per sheet. You're being given poor advise. BTW, I'm a retired lumberman.
I replaced the transom on my aluminum1977 Trailorboat Kalamath nearly 30 years ago. I am fortunate that my transom wasn’t enclosed. I just recut a pressure treated 2x10 into the shape of the rotted transom, and capped it with sheet aluminum. After all these years it still looks new.
I have a similar issue with my transom, not really sure how bad it is yet. I have been checking out all the ways to replace the transom and I really like what you have done. I would have used epoxi to seal the wood over Thompson’s Water Seal though but that is just me.Thanks for posting this very nicely done documentation. :)
TheSagerider We thought about that. We determined just sealing the edges and letting the wood breath would be better. It's marine grade plywood, designed to get wet. Don't forget to subscribe!
Outdoorsman Channel marine grade plywood is used in new boats to but they seal them in fiberglass to keep the water off and create a water proof seal because the wood will rot.
I just did my 2005 Explorer transom over the weekend. I had to cut holes in the splash well to get to all the bolts. It was far easier than taking half the stern apart then made patches for the holes. I used PT plywood as it should last longer than the marine ply. Also I used the engine hoist and I bolts to pull the old plywood out but I had to build an engine stand first.
One great feature of tin boats is that transom replacement is a LOT easier than on fiberglass. You can generally gain access by removing screws and rivets so the repaired hull is as good as new. Also the plywood is not epoxied to the hull material. You're generally repairing a boat at least twenty years old and the new transom is going to last another two decades. After that, if the boat is still around, it's somebody else's problem.
Agreed. Thanks for watching don't forget to subscribe!
You did a good job and covered the complete teardown and rebuild! Will outlast both you and me!Maranatha, GREETINGS from Tampa Florida
Thanks! We wanted to make a full video to show everyone what to do. We spent a good amount of time thinking and preparing so everybody else won't have to. Thanks for watching don't forget to subscribe!
I've done a few new transoms on aluminum and fiberglass with wood core transoms. Pull out the old one and make a template and or bring the old one in if it's in good shape to take a template of and I made the new ones out of marine grade plywood and the coated everything in marine grade epoxy resin. Did alot of those jobs for DIY people.
That's exact same motor I have LOL it's from the mid-80s and it still runs pretty darn good 😂
Yea 1986 mariner 45 hp! We sold the boat but it ran great for us!
Did you ever try to remove the lower unit? Someone commented that they get stuck all if the time. Joe
I didn't realize Opie from O & A was into boat repair. Sounds just like him!
Last one i did i clamped plywood to outside of transom and traced outline with permanent marker and trimmed to allow for aluminum thickness .A little less trial and error.
Go Ahead Make Our Day Scooter &Peanut Great Idea!
That's what I've done on a couple of fiberglass boats. Maybe don't get a perfect fit inside but "close enough for gov't work" or in these cases good enough to get another few years out of a boat that's 30 years or more old already. I don't do restoration-quality on these old boats - nobody will pay for that much labor and it doesn't raise the value of the boat enough to justify it.
You will have one issue with that transom. After you installed you have to drill holes into for the motor and other things. Once those holes are drilled and the transom is in place, the wood is exposed at the screws. It would have been best to mark the holes and drill them while the board is out. Then place some water seal inside holes to water proof just encase. Just remember to make sure the holes are sealed every year with some 3m 4200 or something similar. If you do not marine grade or not it will rot the same way the old one did, from the inside out.
should have used epoxy resin to seal "Water Seal" will not last
You would NEVER get all the holes to line up doing it that way.
Hi, Nice video. I do recommend you put some sikaflex on and under all of the heads of the bolts to seal off all the bolt holes from outside water. You can't be too careful. Water always finds a way of getting past stuff.
Gionimo Thanks for watching! Yes we did some sealent on the screws in the back. Don't forget to subscribe!
You got off easy! I've seen some real nightmares on fiberglass boats where guys spend days or weeks fixing.
Oh no! That is definitely not a weekend project. Thanksfully ours wasn't too bad to repair.
Started the transom on my 2001 yesterday. When you had to break the welds, how much force or swings did it take. At the moment I'm stuck at that point. Also did you notice any sealant/silicon when you took the transom cap off? I can't find any trace of sealant, which I think is borderline negligent. Did you see the video on the new HDP transom? It says a line of bullshit about lund transoms being state of the art and warranted for life!! Again all lies!!! Your video has been more help than every single lund dealership around! Never again!! I'd rather swim! Thanks for the vid!!
Sorry for the late reply I never got an update about your comment. It took a good amount of force and maybe a dozen swings. Just hit it hard and try different angles. There was none for us either. I didn't see that video. Yea of course we had no information when trying to figure this out and thought it would be very helpful to to others. The lund transom being lifetime warranty is ridiculous too. Do they expect people to drive there boat to factory? I'm sure its a procedure to get it done by them. Hope your project goes well feel free to reach of if you need help.
Each state has it's own definition of what "Lifetime" means as it applies to warranties. In Ohio, it means 7 years or essentially what they consider the lifespan that can be expected out of any item. So a 10 year warranty or 20 year warranty are actually better than a lifetime warranty. Some states count it as less time too. Lifetime doesn't mean *YOUR* lifetime. At 30+ years, they have no obligation to do any kind of repairs on the boat and probably won't. Just something to think about. Good repair project.
Good call on sealing it store where I bought it recommended sealing all exposed surfaces
You're supposed to seal it with epoxy resin, not Thompson water seal... just FYI
Hey mate, thank you for your video! I was going to cut the back fiberglass off and then found this way and how much better!
I was going to add, when I do mine Id think of making a bucket of resin and tip it down the back on both sides to fill in and lock the wood in place. Any thoughts on that?
I personally would keep everything original and factory.
@@OutdoorsmanChannel Cheers, thanks for your time
Read the directions on the Thompsons. Usually it is not permanent. Coat solidly with epoxy 100% twice, especially at the edges, maybe three times. also noted transom was not a complete fit side to side. Eventually, the aluminum at your sides will metal fatigue and crack. A bit closer and fill with epoxy would have been better.
Thanks for a great how to on this fix! Looks like well be going down this path on our Lund transom. Can you take a guess at how many hours you put into this fix, so we can plan it?
+Erik Monson Thanks for the view don't forget to subscribe! I'd say it took us about 14-16 hours or so for the whole process. A decent amount was thinking how to do it. With this video you should be able to shave a couple hours off.
Folks, this was very well done for it’s time, but because of the propensity for water intrusion(gaps, cap strip, rivet leaks) use Coosa board. Stronger, lighter won’t get water logged and never rots, but it costs more. However, you never have to replace it. Wood does what nature intended, decompose.
Wood will outlast the boat guaranteed. Boat was 25 years old or so when this is made. Hull takes a beating from the waves.
@@OutdoorsmanChannel
Yes you did a great job. It’s just that I’ve replaced so much wood that I hate the stuff. In fact, it won’t do a transom with wood. I’ve seen it rot in just a few years. Some preservatives and sealers actually cause the wood core to rot quicker. Some preservatives cause aluminum to corrode. Quality marine plywood is very hard to find or mostly fake. I hate fungi food.
@@SkypowerwithKarl I appreciate the input. We just chose to keep it to factory spec. Thanks for watching.
Greetings from MN. Awesome video. I have a 93' Lund rebel I'm starting tomorrow. The drain tubes in the splash pan had me stumped! Glad I found this! Do you mind sharing where you had bought or ordered them from?
+Walleye Willy Hey Willy thanks for the comment glad you liked the video. The drain tubes are Moeller 1" x 2" sold by Busters Marine on Amazon. About $6. Don't forget to subscribe and check out more of my videos with the lund!
Walleye Willy There is also a 1" x 1 7/8". Moeller has a few different types including plastic.
Joe Silverbliss thank you, sir!
Outdoorsman Channel thanks for the info! Great seeing the older Lunds getting the love they deserve!
I'm going to look at a 95 lund 1800 fisherman today it looks super clean and was garage kept, it has a I/o motor any tips on how to check the transom for rot ?
The two top caps on the port and starbort side of the transom. If you remove those take a pick or screw driver and evaluate from there. If there are any screws in the transoms you could ask to remove one and see how lose or tight it is. Also as far as the I/O goes I highly suggest removing the fuel filter and a spark plug. We recently purchased an I/O and they can hide numerous problems. If the fuel filter has water in it (you can tell by pouring contents into clear bottle) then the boat could have many issues. Goodluck! Let me know how it turns out and don't forget to subscribe!
Excellent video. thanks for sharing
Robert Scott Thanks! Don't forgot to subscribe!
Well done mate good job n great to watch with a well done job
Thanks! Don't forget to subscribe!
How dis u tied it bk to the Stringer's
Great video. Nice work.
Great job
i have a 1979 crestliner its a 16 ft aluminum and we took it to a boat place and the said the transom needed replacement. they said it woukd cost 6k which is more than the boat is worth. the transom is rotted and im curious if i can still do this
You can do it yourself! Get it done
@@OutdoorsmanChannel do u have any idea why it would cost 6k idk anymore info about why and what it looks like yet but i feel like replacing wood doesnt vost 6k
@@troy1284 It took us a ton of hours to do. 6k seems reasonable. It's no small undertaking. You figure any good mechanic is charging $150/hour. So two guys working $300/hr. That's only about 2 days plus materials.
@@OutdoorsmanChannel whats the best way to get the motor off without any equipment. or minimal equipment
@@troy1284 check out the video. We use a ladder as a life with straps and cum along etc.
You should have wood grsins of opposite direction when laminating your wood. Much stronger.
Not sure that was marine plywood, I could see voids on the right hand side- originally they probably just built it with exterior grade plywood which is just fine. I would HIGHLY recommend sealing the transom with epoxy resin at the edges so that future water won't suck in so much. Have done a few transoms myself, and much prefer doing them on aluminum boats. :)
I can't even imagine the pain of doing a transom on a fiberglass boat. I'm sure we could've sealed more and used different boards etc, but that marine grade wood and thomsons water seal will last awhile. Thanks for watching!
How did you manage to rebore those drain holes so accurately. Is there a trick?
Kreig Dernier speaking for the Outdoorsman channel. I thought that would be a problem, how to find the center that is. Just take a simple compass like from grade school with a pencil and a point and adjust it to just over have the diameter. Then put the point right next to the metal on the wood. Draw an arc on the wood and repeat a few time around the circumference. The intersection of the arcs is the Center. Next punch a hole and drill a pilot hole as square and straight A's you can. Then use the spaid bit. This was 1 inch. One shot for both holes. I was pleasently surprised. Happy drilling and let us know how you do.
Just drill the whole out after its n stalled
I used a speed square to a-line the angle for my drill. And use the right size bit.
Joe Silverbliss the hole is already in the aluminum and the wood is installed so just drill it out and both sides will line up perfect. Works every time.
great job`informative video =) what size boat nd is the 40hp sufficient ?
cheers
16 foot boat with a 45 hp two stroke and 3 bladed prop. When boat is fully loaded it struggles a bit but with two or 3 people works good. Get up to 28mph.
Nice job....I think I would have sealed that plywood with a coat of epoxy resin though.
john smith Thought about that. We figured this was good enough since wood is marine grade. I don't think original was by looks of it.
Outdoorsman Channel Marine grade is just hardwood plywood with waterproof glue. But with the Thompson's water seal was probably more than the factory did.
@@OutdoorsmanChannel Marine grade plywood is not treated and will rot just as fast as regular plywood. As mentioned the glue bonding the plies is waterproof. Also marine grade plywood will not have any knotholes and typically has more plies than standard plywood. Definitely would recommend sealing with epoxy but using the Thompson water seal is better than nothing I guess... nice video
@@mdees88 Thanks for watching. We simply chose to make the transom the same as factory specification.
How did you figure out the exact shape/profile of the bottom edge? Didn't quite understand that bit
Jack. Can you elaborate a little more on your question. The bottom edge was basically a straight line. The cardboard was trimmed to fit as needed by trial and error to make a template. The side edges of the actual wood where trimmed to fit as needed. One note, if you watch very carefully you will see the old transom has a tab in the middle where the engine is that was not duplicated in the new one. That extra tab did do anything for strength. I am a contributor to the outdoorsman channel. Joe
@@joesilverbliss1721 Thanks, that's very helpful. I didn't see how the profile for the bottom edge could be replicated on the new bit of wood given the old one was in pieces and I didn't really see how placing a piece of cardboard into the space can help to figure out the shape. I have a very similar project and am deciding if I can fix it in a very similar way (ie cut off the top of the fiberglass and drop in a new piece) vs cut off the whole back piece of fibreglass and marry up the new piece directly like lots of the other video. This would involve much more fibreglassing after but would make getting the shape correct easier. Any further tips? I'd much rather do it the same way you did... Thanks, Jack
@@tamariderr Jack. I think if you get all of the structural points covered you can really go too wrong. Good luck. Joe
Excellent work
Thanks don't forget to subscribe!
If always heard you need to leave a couple inch gap at the bottom. Did you do this or did you bring the wood all the way down. I’m have almost an identical boat I’m doing the same thing on.
Hi. The wood does not go all the way down. There is a large gap to the bottom of the bilge. You only need to go down to where there is a need for engine support, in my opinion. In fact if you look very carefully you will see the rotten wood has a different shape than the new wood. The section in the center below the engine mounts doesn't seem to support anything. I think it is better to keep the wood far away from the water. Lots of comments about using cosa board instead of wood.
That is coosa board. Marine plywood was just easier to get. Let us know how it comes out. I am a contributing associate of the outdoorsman channel. Good luck
@@joesilverbliss1721 thank you!
One more comment. When the holes were drilled for the engine bracket we filled them with silicone before inserting the bolts to seal everything up. There were some comments on that also.
Great video. I have a 1986 Blue Fin boat that my transom is pulling apart. I'm sure mine is rotten also. It is a 17'10 foot with a 75 HP Mercury on it. I see you are from N.Y. also? I am a little nervous about pulling all that apart, your video is very helpful. Where did you get the drain hole parts and bolt and ferrul tool? Thank you for sharing.
So go to Amazon and look for Sea Dog 520290-1 and Moeller drain tubes. That will get you what you need. There are different tube sizes to pick from, brass and aluminum. I work in close association with the outdoorsman channel. I actually star in a number of videos. Lots of comments on alternative material for transom you may want to consider. Marine plywood was relatively easy to get for this project. Good luck
Okay thank you. I tried pulling my gap together and seeing if the screws would tighten it back up. Nope. Screws just strip out. Must be rotted in there. Thanks for info.
What about treat plywood? I have to measure it, but assuming it is 1 1/2"-2" wide the opening. They do make 3/4" treated plywood don't they? Going to be a project. I want to use this Summer if I can. Been like that for a while now. Will wait till the Fall or winter maybe.
@@elitebowman5386 Marine plywood is theoretically rated to be submerged. People make boats out of it. I don't believe treated plywood is rated for direct water contact
Correction. You probably can't use it for a boat without proper sealing. Best to read up on ratings of different material and choose the one that works for you. Good luck
CarbonBond Pourable Ceramic Transom Compound seems to be the way to go..
Seacast would be perfect for that boat.
Excellent job and explanation.
Thanks I appreciate the support don't forget to subscribe!
Use the tow hooks for hole to jackscrew the transom against the aluminum.
Was this your first transom you replaced?
Yes
@@OutdoorsmanChannel how hard would say it was? I’m going to do mine but I’ve never done one before. So I’m kinda nervous
@@jordanking905 definitely takes a lot of time. But this video will help.
@@OutdoorsmanChannel how’s the transom holding up after 4 years?
So instead of riveting the plate back on you just used screws? I need to do a transom replacement soon and am curious
What plate are you talking about? Pop rivets we're used for the Angle bracket to reattach the gunwall tops
Nice job
Thanks!
So - did I miss the part where you fibreglassed everything in?
It's an aluminum boat. No fiberglass
how is the transom connected to the rest of the boat, it seems like just sitting in that thin aluminum pocket wouldnt be strong, does it set up against other wood on the gunnels
It fits in the pocket but then gets bolted to structure with engine bolts and other bolts outside the engine mounts. It also gets bolted with the tie downs. I work closely with the Outdoorsman Channel.
Knee braces that bolt to transom
I see a NY plate, me to, want to help me do the same job on my Lone Star? 1963 I think, boats in good shape but the transom looks like the one you pulled out of yours.
I don't do this as a business just for personal project. Goodluck with your project.
love your content bro
Thanks! I plan to upload a lot more in the coming months!
@@OutdoorsmanChannel cool!! will be checking it out, going to replace the transom on a boat of my own tomorrow as well, so u were good help
Where did you get the flair tool
Sea Dog 520290-1 Drain Tube Flaring on Amazon. This worked for this drain tube.
Use Thermo-Lite Board when replacing wood in any boat repair so you don't have to replace rotted wood again.
+Mike Kalberer The original wood didn't appear to be marine grade and it lasted 25+ years. I don't think we will own this boat for that long. Its also much cheaper to use wood. Thanks for watching!
What kind of sealant did you use ?
Thomsons water seal.
Great job but why didn't you use coosa board? It cannot rot!!! There's no wood to rot!!! But awesome great job hope it lasts very long time
We just wanted to make it as original spec. We figured the original wood lasted from 1986 to 2016 and the hull would not last another 30 years.
@@OutdoorsmanChannel I don't know I know lots of people with 1950s boats that they still use!!! But yes original spec is good but coosa will never rot so it does last the 30years extra it will need to be replaced
What is the price difference between coosa and marine grade plywood ?
You also have to factor in shipping costs for coosa.
I'm getting ready to replace transom and stringers in my boat. I'd love to use coosa, seacast, carbon bond, etc.
In the long run, is something other than wood, the way to go? Good question. How will the composites hold up in the long run ?
Talk me into spending the extra for it. Especially when paying around $100, for shipping alone .
Keeping in mind, that means less money for the rest of the project.
Why wood again? There is so good other materials for such a job.
But you did a nice job anyway👍🏻
Thanks for watching. We chose wood to match original. It was also the lowest cost and the lightest weight we could find. The boat is a 1986 and the original transom lasted that long. We figured the hull would break before this transom.
Outdoorsman Channel
Okay i understand. I have a microplus 461 from the 80’s too. Also hat a bad transom with rotten wood. Also cleaned out just like you did but had to make it more strong also because the boat was made for 50hp max and i bought a 115 2str yamaha.
So i cleaned it out and pored in a epoxy for deepfreeze truckfloors. This stays a litle flexibel and is also very strong.
But a lot of work also haha.
Tnx for sharing this video. This helps a lot of people.
@@michielderuyter6011 Yea that makes sense. Ours is rated for 55 hp and we had 45 on it. Too afraid to go higher haha. Of course glad to help anyone out!
Outdoorsman Channel
Regards from the Netherlands👍🏻
Wow, great filming method. If you wave the camera around like a vacuum you can suck up all the imagery.
At 2:07 in you say " 9/16" bolts. They are 3/8" threaded u-bolts, and 9/16" hex-head nuts. Just sayin...
You must be fun to have dinner with... Lol. Jk
Lund just uses green treated plywood. I’m a marine mechanic and I will have to say Lund cuts corners. They are nice boats but don’t last
Yea they are very nice, but I've been seeing people that have boats in the 2000s that have rotted transoms.
Outdoorsman Channel had a 2004 yesterday also crestliner and Lund are the same now so crestliners aren’t any better
Not only should you have sealed the plywood 1st. You should have cut old fibreglass out from inside of Transom, refiberglass it all in. You also should have glued entire backside of the fibreglass on outer transom. You're just going to get water in there again, will rerot in no time.
The boat has zero fiberglass in it. Thanks for watching.
It will get you going but will suffer bad vibration, all voids needed to be filled. A transom needs to function in conjunction s with other structural elements, stay safe.
Nice video. However, you didn't replace all the way to the drain hole. Don't you thi k that would be rotted too. At least mine was.
The original transom didn't extend down to the drain hole. It stopped about 6 to 12 inches above it. It is really only there for engine support
interested in doing another one?
STEVENPSIC haha I don't think so. Thanks for watching don't forget to subscribe!
Mine is fiber glass, so I guess I have a different route
Fiberglass boat or transom?
@@OutdoorsmanChannel the boat is fiberglass, looks like I'll cut the back out I hope
drillmanship?
It is a technical term used by people who repair boats on TH-cam
Scusami io so solo l'italiano esiste qualche video in italiano grazie
Mate it will be soaked in there after 1 trip unfortunately. Pull it out and seal it and fill all voids
Transom worked out excellent. Absolutely zero vibration and likely will last longer than factory original. Likely will last longer than the Hull. Thanks for watching.
I’ll bet the transom isn’t the only place wood is rotting.
You're correct we also replaced all the floor boards too.
After all teat fitting and getting it to fit perfectly you don`t seal the plywood??? It will rot in 5 years . You should of gave it at least a couple coats of resin. If you do a job do it right.
It's marine grade plywood. The original was definitely not and it lasted quite awhile. We made it better than factory and it will likely outlast the hull. Thanks for watching.
That engine is this old as the boat. Lol
lino garcia yup still runs good. Ran compression to it was great.
Great video but that feet scraping in the garage is super distracting.
Video quality has been improving with time. Thanks for watching.
Seal with epoxy
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Absolutely hacked
Good hack?
pich up your feet when you walk f@#@
Transom not tranzum.
“Importan” is not a word.
Fashioned not fashion.
Nice slurping. 🤮
All that work and you didn’t caulk the drains.
Good film spoilt, due to you not speaking nto mic..