99 Honda Civic No Spark Diagnosis with a Test Light
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- I will show you how to troubleshoot the entire ignition system, including cam and crank signals, ECU to igniter control and igniter to ignition coil control using a simple test light. A follow up test will be done with a small single channel lab scope, showing yet another way to verify the same condition.
Engine Performance Diagnostics chapter 22
Symptoms
no start
Fix
replace faulty ignition coil
Tests shown
how to test for spark and injector pulse with an incandescent test light
using injector pulse as a guide for good cam and crank signals
how to test for igniter control of the ignition coil
how to isolate the ignition coil to test the igniter itself
how to perform a primary coil current ramp test with a lab scope (uScope) and an inductive low amp probe
Tools used
OTC 3633 Mini Circuit Tester
www.jbtoolsale...
ATD Tools 5519 Auto Ranging Digital Multimeter
www.jbtoolsale...
uScope Master Kit 1-channel automotive scope
www.aeswave.com...
Lisle 20700 Coil-on Plug Spark Tester
www.jbtoolsales...
Playlist
(Chapter 22) No Spark Troubleshooting, Ignition Coil & Module Testing
• (Chapter 22) No Spark ...
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For more information on this topic, I have written a “field manual” called Engine Performance Diagnostics which is available at www.scannerdanner.com as an eBook or paper book.
Want even more diagnostic training? Whether you are a DIY trying to fix your own car, someone looking to become an auto technician, or a current auto technician that wants to get more into diagnostics, subscribe to ScannerDanner Premium www.scannerdan... There is a 14 day free trial.
On ScannerDanner Premium I will bring you right into my classroom at Rosedale Technical College. You will find page for page lectures taken right from my book as well as exclusive classroom type case studies. What is so special about these classroom case studies? I pull live problem vehicles directly into my classroom and we troubleshoot them in real time, using and applying the theory and testing procedures we learn during the classroom lectures. There is no better on-line training of how to troubleshoot automotive electrical and electronics systems anywhere!
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC.
Guys you have got to get the book. His book is full of so much info. And any time I get stuck on something it a great sufferance guide as well... it's made so much a difference with understanding the videos and it's been great for myself and my son to work together. It's just all around the best way to help anyone up there game and make money. Thanks so much Paul danner for everything.
Thank you George! Awesome you are including your son too!
@@ScannerDannerwhat’s the book called? I want to buy
@louisvillalba7695 it is available through my website at www.scannerdanner.com
I also offer online training courses as well (called ScannerDanner Premium) @@louisvillalba7695
I am finding these video's fascinating and very educational. It's helping me learn electrical diagnosis. Something I am not good at yet. But proud to say I passed my first ASE test about a month ago.
Nice man! Keep it up
Thanks man, it's funny; I studied my ass off and at the test center it kept giving me electrical to diagnose. I was doing the A5 test and electrical likes to twist my brain in knots. Maybe watching your video's helped me. But everyone at the shop I work at was shocked I actually passed the test.
Hi Paul, thanks to your excellent videos & book, I have gone from a complete dunce with engine performance issues to having a working knowledge on engines plus testing techniques using basic equipment for a diy'r
I know this post is very old, but it's still very useful for diagnosing a crank-but-no-start problem on my 1992 Honda Accord that ran fine just last week. I'm trying to translate what's on this video, which has an internal coil to my Accord, which has an external coil. The external coil does not have the "+" and "-" markings on it. There's a 4-prone plug connected to the coil, but only 3 terminals are active.
As mentioned, there are 3 wires (BLK/YEL, BLK/WHT, and YEL) connected to the coil. According to the wiring diagram in the Honda Shop Manual, the BLK/YEL wire comes from the ignition switch; the YEL wire goes to the "power" terminal (BLK/YEL) on the igniter; the BLK/WHT wire goes to the "primary output control" terminal (GRN) on the igniter. There's also a YEL/GRN wire on the igniter that connects to the ECU, and a BLU wire on the igniter that goes to the tachometer and other stuff. I did the following test:
1) With ignition ON and all wires connected to both the coil and igniter, I measured around 12V steady on both the BLK/YEL and GRN wires on the igniter.
2) While cracking, the GRN wire still measured 12V steady (i.e., no flickering).
3) I disconnected the GRN wire from the igniter, then hooked the test light clip to battery "+" terminal, and put the probe on the igniter terminal where the GRN wire had been plugged in. There's no flickering when the engine's cranked.
4) I completely disconnected the coil from the engine and measured resistance between various terminals according to instructions in the repair manual. The resistance values do not meet spec.
Based on these tests, I'm concluding both the igniter and coil are bad. Did I do the tests (as described by ScannerDanner in the video) correctly for my car, and is my conclusion correct? Please help.
Just wanted to post a follow-up. Problem solved. I replaced both the igniter & coil, and the engine fired right up. I tried test 3 above with the new components; it passed.
@ptmoy1 did you car suddenly stop running?
Excellent video. Thank you.. you helped me determined why my 88 Honda Civic would crank but won't start. it was the ignition coil...however, I decided to replace the whole distributor instead and I diagnosed this with a simple test light. thank you...
Good
I'm getting a 88 crx in a couple weeks. Guy say coil my be bad. This will definitely help me out. Thanks SD
Was that it or what else you did ?
@@DJV94022 poured some gas in and made the discovery there was no gas tank 🤣
I bought a distributor from Amazon for $75 and solved the problem for my CB7 '92 Accord. I'm a HAM with oscilloscopes and it never occurred to me to use them for this. Great video and subscribed.
Great example of using the test light and the benefits of a scope regardless of it's level of sophistication or price point. Thanks!
Really great video, man. Bringing your style of diagnostics to the DIY community is a great thing.
Those steps were easy to understand and well presented Thanks again Paul. Love the scope!
This is why my power probe 4 is never not by my side! Solid diagnostic logic and theory mate. My preference is to check for fuel faults then ignition faults.
Logic and unsderstanding the best tools in the box, in truth the only tools that are always needed.
I have lost count of the amount of times I have had people tell me what they thought was wrong only to find informed and knowledgable analysis proves the said part could not be the source of the problem. Important to never overlook first principle observations before diving in with the computer.
I know what you mean the one make car forums are a major cause of bad diagnosis, there is good information on them but too few people filter the good from the ramdon.
gran video como siempre señor danner,
i'm a DIY so i bought the uscope a time ago 'cause was the only affordable to me, and it helped me to diagnose some misfire on my car, specially with the injectors and spark plugs under the manifold and the amp probe great feature,
thanks mr danner for sharing your experience. hope some day you make a video with the uscope on a O2 sensor issue
Thanks Danner, for the elaborated diagnostic procedures, it helps a lot
Video cleared up a lot with the simple light teat
Nice job explaining your diagnosis with the test light as well as working with the U-Sccope. Thanks Paul!
You will like the one coming up in a few minutes. I am featuring the uScope with my class at RTC. If your a premium subscriber, you've seen it before. Thanks!
Great Video good to see the uscope in use. I may need to pick one of them up for on the road diagnostic calls.
Always a great training session with your videos Paul Danner God bless you, 🙏🙏🙏
These videos are like having your mechanic older brother show you how to do shit. Awesome 10/10 keep em coming!
Thank you!
hey man just wanted to say thanks a couple of your videos about the honda accord just got me out of a real jam i was in
glad to help!
Scanner Danner to the rescue again. Used all your steps and found my ignition coil/tower was bad. Helped me fix my brother in laws car. Thanks a million!!
hey man dude ur vids are awesome.. i own a small marine repair shop and just hit a my first brick wall with a no start situation on a early 90s delco EST system on a 454 marine efi engine (vortec gen 6), ran fine for 2-3 days on stand, came in 4th day, powered on, did sth for 5 minutes and the coil was SMOKING. Nothing else looked bad- tested pickup (ohms and short to ground test), tested with 3 icms, more work to do but i am learning alot just seeing you say the same thing over and over and slowly im forming the picture- sweet man thanks for helping us noobs out with this stuff-
thank you so much! This video may help you a bit too
th-cam.com/video/7nHbctRwyys/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/9U942uGTZf0/w-d-xo.html
And then this GM distributor design no spark video th-cam.com/video/mDKj19Hnhd0/w-d-xo.html
@@ScannerDanner Hey I really appreciate replying man, much appreciated- your videos are real helpful. Found a pinched grey tach wire that was shorting the primary (ouch smokebomb!) - ill be looking at getting your book too- greta help man thanks again!
@@SocalMarineUSA heck yeah man, nice find!! What led you in that direction? Coil negative would have been grounded constantly.
Using my test light methods, with light connected to ground, you would have noticed that coil negative was not lit up like it should have been. Then to keep the coil from frying again during the rest if the tests, I would have unplugged it, and switched my test light to battery positive and connected that to the disconnected coil negative wire. Light would be lit constantly. Then I would have unplugged the ICM to confirm light was still lit, confirming short to ground on the coil negative circuit which would have led directly to what you found. Is that what you did?
@@ScannerDanner hey - so i was working on a marine variation, why they have a loose grey tack wire is beyond me, when there is already one in the main loom to the front - the bastard got pinched between block and a bracket.. it changed colors too which is just plain stupid on any marine engine.. I did use a GTC505 to confirm zero spark, as i wasnt 100% sure how your tests would reveal my exact issues - by not seeing it spark a certain way would mean I have seen it spark the right way before lol .. I eventually figured what the white wires was by opening the loom and found it was grounded which was a real fluke-
Great video you really helped me out with my 99 civic got it running because of the video 👍 (used the test light)
Sweet! Nice job my friend.
what was wrong with it?
i just saw it below ! Thanks.
Bro you're the goat in this industry.
Fixed my Prelude using this method, thank you!
Nice video.. Would like to see more trouble shooting with basic tools. Like the light and voltage/ohm meter.. I do realize the scoops are awesome.. But I think your skilled enough to use the basic equipment more Paul. Again great Video as always bro..
I have a ton of videos like this Ben! Thanks
Changed the distributor and rotor yesterday. Very very simple, right? Yup. I have done it on many vehicles over the years but once done The car (1996 Civic CX) would not start. It would crank over but not start. It is my assumption that when I had to lightly crank it to expose the rotor screw, I wrecked the coil. I will use this vid and my test light to sus it out. My son will be crank man as it is his $500 Civic.
just for reference to time these. there is a blue lead that has to be jumpered around the passenger kick panel, then you can set the crank mark.
Brilliant, love this video clip, really helpful. Thanks a million for posting.
Cant find a test light like yours. What model and where did you buy it ? Also you are a great teacher and keep up the good work !
I am having the same problem with my 1996 honda....thanks for the help ☺️
We started with a spark check using a spark test tool and the tool showed a spark. Still no start. We went through the entire checklist, distributor,
Got cut off. sorry. next we checked for fuel, fuse, main relay and power to the fuel pump. While we were in there we replaced the main relay, fuel filter, and upgraded to a new fuel pump. Still no start. I was ready to junk it. As a last resort, we pulled all 4 spark plugs and the gaps were a little wide. We placed them and guess what, it started. I didn't know that with these 4 cylinders you need 3 plugs working to start but it might not, it won't start with just 2 operating plugs. So using a spark tool can fool you. The plugs we replaced were kind of old but they were iridiums.
good video I like my uscope thanks for helping us learn your a great teacher
Hey Paul awesome video again...and a very nice toy,the scope..now I want one...thanks again paul..
23:08 Spark from a good coil can jump over a rather large air gap. I have a crank no-start situation and my coil can only show a spark if my test light is basically touching the metal coil on the ignition coil. Looks like I'll have to order a new coil.
26:57 Good and bad coil wave forms.
28:34 Ignition coil resistance test (with TEC coil specs: Primary=0.63 - 0.77 ohms; Secondary=12.8 - 19.2 kohms).
I got a new $15 ignition coil from Amazon just to see if it would fix the issue... and it did!
I was surprised that when I tested the resistances of the old ignition coil, they were within spec: primary=0.7 ohm; secondary=16.17 kohm. So the failure must only show up under load.
The new coil had the following resistances: primary=0.5-0.7 ohm; secondary=15.49 kohm. I'll get a more expensive coil and put that in; OEM is $108 and NKG is $70... not sure which I'll go with yet. I'll keep the cheap one as a backup.
@@flexibleaspect I've seen other techs say exactly that. You can get good resistance reads on a bad coil and those out of spec ohms are prob only detectable under load.
My rotor has no set screw and doesn't want to come off to access wiring to use test light:(
@@ooulalah4333 You can't see a screw on the rotor even after viewing it from all angles? Very strange. I would think you could just pull it off in that case...
Thank you scanner Danner
Thank you so much for this video... i have a 1998 honda civic DX and one day i was coming back from the store my battery light came on so maybe i thought it was my alternator so I replaced it but still no crank.. the motor would just rotate but didnt start then i changed my battery to a new one but still doing the same thing... so today i changed my fuel filter thought it was clogged up but that didnt help.. at all i thought maybe my timing belt had jumped a teeth or ripped off.. so my last guess will be my ignition coil that gaved out so this video really helped me since u did all those tests but didnt do the test on the distributor.. since mine is having the same problem wont crank then definitely its my ignition coil so now ill buy a new one and replace it see if that will make it crank
Did you fix it?
@@ScannerDanner not yet bro ive done everything even bought a new starter but my guess is that my timing belt ripped thats the only thing that comes to mind
Great examples. Impressive knowledge of diagnostic techniques
Thanks!
Thanks man for that, i hade spark plug tester and spark plug wires tester bought them for the 96 jeep grand cherokee, and now they are useless for 99 honda crv the tester cant reach the sparg plug because theyr too deep inside, and the qires tester barelly showing the flashing light at night, ofcourse you cant see it at day time.
I have had a couple of ignition amplifier modules fail and cause similar faults. Really got to pay close attention to scope display.
Great video Paul. Certainly cleared a few things for me using my Uscope. Thanks for the upload.
Ttytttttttt the the t5t5t5
Prop's on the uScope Paul
Great vid
Excellent instruction as always.
your boy going to be an excellent mechanic!!!!!
thanks Danner,Will check it out.Pressure test at the rail first.But to confess,never put a fuel filter in it! With 160,000 on the poor thing!
saludos desde venezuela, y no entiendo el ingles, pero me sirvio visualmente tu video. fuera bueno que lo tradujeras al español, Dios te bendiga y gracias por compartir tus conocimientos
The ignitor and the ignition coil are both parts of the distributor. Most video I saw so far, people just change the distributor. I think they cost almost as much as the distributor itself?
Regardless of the cost of the reman distributor vs fixing what's broken inside, the important part was understanding how to troubleshoot this as the techniques apply to everything!
I replaced my ignition coil and afterwards, my car finally turned on. Thankyou.
Check engine light has now come on and since a 93, I don’t have obd plugin. Any checklist to why I now have a check engine light? Thankyou
Had to get a dose of scannerdanner! Clever approach with just test light !
+Schrodingers Box thanks Matt! How's the new job treating you?
ScannerDanner hahahaha... not well, my friend. not well. Travel all the time and work day and night. Insanely good money though, but in exchange for my life. This video is the first automotive TH-cam video I have watched in 5 months now, but man it felt like therapy!!!
@@SchrodingersBox that’s why u don’t work until your dead you work until your plan comes Successful !
@@SchrodingersBox both of you guys are great . im watching both of your videos.. thank you so much
I need help. My negative on the coil is pulsing but I don't have electricity on the positive. What could it be?
Nice . Hopefully, one day, you will post a video on how to install a distributor and time it.
I have one on a Ford. I think it's "ScannerDanner gets his but kicked by an 88 f150"
Nice one buddy that U Scope is awesome. 👍👍
It is a very handy tool that will take you along way without spending oodles of cash. The AES-Wave software (strictly speaking the firmware) makes a very good little bit of hardware into a truly great tool. The basic Chineses Oscilloscope it is based is just about unuseable without upgraded firmware.
In terms of bang for your buck it is great value.
You can buy the basic version and add accesories as you go along.
I have a 99 civic ex and when the coil went out, It started shooting thru the top of the coil to that gold bracket or cover there. kinda looks like that one has a hot spot on the top of that coil too.
Paul, @ 24:50..I'm not sure, but what I think you really want to be able to do is instead of going into the trigger menu is to go into the Horizontal menu and select "Horz Pos". That will make a small yellow rectangle at the bottom middle of the screen, which you will be able to move the position of your event either left or right in fine increments...It is better than the 2 positions the trigger menu "Tr Hpos" has to offer- Better control.
That little pocket scope works pretty decent.
It does bro and thanks for the Ozzstar stickers!
Your welcome. Thank you man for all the awesome videos you make!! I appreciate the Facebook shout out!
thank you scanner danner for sharing the excellent video!!!!!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video SD.
Great video and very handsome young man to assist you.
Old thread I know, but at 9:00 you touch the igniter and it pulses. What do you do when it does pulsate? It's dead no light. Same set up one the yellow green wire into distributor and nothing either.
What have you done with it so far?
@@ScannerDanner 2000 crv 2.0L crank, no spark. No spark on any wire, distributor cap or coil tower. Test light from grd shows power on + and - connection of coil. But no flashing light. Isolated coil, like you suggest, with pos batt test lite connection get nothing from ignitor coil post(all this as cranking ) also did positive connection to batt and test yellow green wire at distributor input wires, nothing at all.
@@stpphone5074 do you have injector pulse?
@@ScannerDanner have not probed it. But hear fuel pump and smell gas during cranking. Was trying to establish spark before looking into gas.
@@stpphone5074 just wanted to he sure you're getting your distributor input signals to and from the computer. Definitely still focused on the no spark, this just gives us good direction. If you smell gas, that is a pretty good indicator. If you can't trigger that igniter, it could be:
1. A shorted ignition coil
2. A bad igniter
3. Wrong test light being used or not done properly
4. Wiring problem to the coil or igniter
Since the ignition coil is an autotransformer you could test between primary and secondary
Are you talking about a resistance test? The problem with that is when it tests bad, it is bad, but when it tests good, it can still be bad
Good job again good teacher thank you for sharing such informative video.
Saved and subd. Great video
Thanks 👍
Hello, I did the positive battery side to the negative side of igniter (yellow wire black stripe) and even turning over i get no light. I replaced the igniter and still no light can you help? Thanks! 2001 accord Ex 2.3,
You are the man Paul !!
This was amazingly helpful. THANK YOU!!!
Hello. I have 2001 civic sir b16 engine..after i replced sparkplugs.engine wont start and no spark..i replaced now distributor assembly but still wont start..
What is the possible cause..thanks
You got nuts for using that test light too check spark. Them coils putout 30k volts. And that insulation is only rated to best Cat III 1000 volts.
Lol, it doesn't hurt. Very very very low current, high voltage surge
@@ScannerDanner Hate to tell you. A stun gun uses only .10 amp from a 9volt battery. Puts out 20K+ volts. It will knock your ass out cold. Just like a Magneto...I know how it feels. I felt them coils jump through 9mm insulation. I dropped too the ground...
Been shocked by ignition coils thousands of times. Unless you have a pace maker you have nothing to fear from a 12v DC ignition coil
@@ScannerDanner Well I'm an Electrical engineer. 12 volts will kill your ass. All it take is the right conditions.
Here is the data on dangerous voltage. Any voltage exceeding 42.2 Vac peak or 60 Vdc without a limited current circuit. Lower then 200ms...Says nothing about amperage.. As 12 volts can produce huge amounts of Amps.
www.cui.com/catalog/resource/power-supply-safety-standards-agencies-and-marks.pdf
great video Paul. If you could, while you revamp the website- could you group all the videos that you use the uScope together...for us poor DIYers that use that great little scope. I know you left links in description, but I'm referring to the new site.
I'll be doing all of the lecture videos first. Then I will begin on the case study videos. While you're waiting, use the search feature when you are looking at my video list. Type in uScope and there you will see them all.
does the ect sensor on civic also have connection when the engine crank but doesnt want to start
i have a 2003 accord it has a ruff idle and engine is shaking and it wot rev over 5k rpm like its on limp mode no check engine light i scanned it no code ... but the long term fuel was 20% and it was over 15 degrees spark advanced..
Thanks for the video. I used it to troubleshoot my ignition coil. I've got a 91 civic with 136,000mi on it. Since I just had to replace the coil, I'm thinking about also replacing the ICM igniter before I get stuck on the road again. In your experience, about how many miles can you get on the original honda ICM before it needs to be replaced?
can't put a number on that Steve-o
Damn i love these videos. And i want a uscope, my verus is like 20lbs. Thanks Paul.
Thank you!
Top video Paul big thumbs up
Thanks allan
Very good explain... thx you alot.. this vey help me alot.. thx u
Im very happy gracias
muy buen profesor
What would it be if the first test you did didn’t work
I will change the ignition coil anyways but if you have any other suggestion I would really appreciate thank you
The old distributor would also have needed a new internal shaft seal and external o-ring too look at all that oil underneath it. Oil leaking from the distributor over time destroys the heater core hose underneath. I've seen them with bubbles in them ready to burst.
In the end a new distributor was a better deal in more ways than one.
Yep last one I pulled for dist o-ring had the heater hose inflated like a balloon. Lucky catch for the owner.
Bushougoma
Hi, can you help me? I have a 88 Honda Civic and it sat for a year because it was cranking but not starting then I did the following:
1- replaced the battery
2- replaced the main relay with new Honda original
3- change oil and filter
5- put fresh gasoline tank is full
6- installed new distributor, whole unit was replaced..
I do t know what else to do.. any suggestions? I really appreciate it
My 00 Honda civic just did this very thing yesterday it's doing exactly what the one in this video is doing so is it most likely the distributor or spark plug cables?
a good test and helpfull
Do you think the u in uScope could cleverly means micro? Did they name their cool device micro-scope? You know for being a small o-scope.
Danner i have a question brother, i didn't have any signal at the injector socket, what does that mean?
great video Paul, cheers
I did everything you did and I’m not getting power to my injectors wen I crank it and I have no spark I’m getting power to the coil but not to the igniter does that mean is my ECU?
With the key on, measure the TPS or MAP sensor for a 5v reference and tell me what you see. One of the 3 wires on each sensor should read a constant 5 with the key on
Mr. D, where do I go next in a diag if I have pressure at the rail, injectors are firing, but no spark at coil, or no ground pulse from igniter to coil.
Scanner danner you are good
any onehung low scope will do I use valleman as it has bnc so I can use my picoscope leads. for ohm readings if it reads bad then it is probably bad if it reads ok then you don't know if it's bad or good. Pico have free software to mess about in demo mode to see what the scale are a scope is a scope the difference is only the details in zoom in measuring onehung low will guess it's way from one dot of measurement to the next. expensive scope will make loads of measurement of the same area for way more accurate zooming. but a signal wave form onehanglow all ok just know the tools limmits.
So basically when u got no spark off the coil when it cranked tells you? And I'm understanding that the light shouldn't flicker?
It should flicker, flicker shows control is there, but its not a foolproof test, so I continued and answered why, with the amp probe
I only have a test light. I’m testing my ignition coil for spark but no spark comes out my light flickers when I have it on the wire. I’ve used my volt meter to read if there’s volts but no read just 0’s. Do you have any suggestions?
what does coil + look like compared to coil - ? (during cranking)
Hi , just a question. When you tested the negative on the coil was it supposed to pulse or be a steady light?
it should pulse. Check out this video th-cam.com/video/YBE7c7lfmnY/w-d-xo.html it's on a Subaru but it will help you understand better what I am looking for
hey Paul, I'm going to purchase your book and the premium channel. just one question. I saw your video on the intro of the premium channel where you talk about updates on the book. if we get the hardcover and not the ebook, how would we get the updates?
I'm having the same issue with my Honda my car starts and drives but no spark in 3 and 4 cylinder at the end of the wires D16y8
hows it paul, thanks for the vid! i wanted to let others know about one "variable" . i ran into an issue where i had control on the negative side of the ignition coil. test light would blink, ignition coil current ramps ok, but still no spark out of ignition coil! At 8:18, you disconnected the ground on the igniter. and put your test light to positive to check output on icm, how ever in my case, when i did that my test light would stay on. indicating a short internally of the icm? replacing the icm was the fix in my case. could you explain why id have a ground coming out of icm constantly on that terminal at 8:18. thanks
Paul, I just got a picoscope 4425 and am new at it. Could you tell me why my "zero" (or baseline) jumps up and down during my coil current ramp test while engine is running. The ramps are fine, but just the zero line (with ramps on it) are jumping up and down. Thanks.....
In the case of a battery drain, can the battery itself be the cause, cause that's what I saw the other day.
you are a great teacher #1
How I do a test light at the primary coil wires....I put my test light alligator on positive side of coil and the test light probe on negative side of coil. If the light flashes while cranking I verified positive and negative at same time. Again, if you hook your test light alligator to POSITIVE, then you don't have to watch for an elusive "flicker" on the negative side of the coil. If it flashes at all during cranking, you have verified the igniter is grounding the coil.
It's hard enough to get to coil negative by itself let alone the positive and negative at the same time.
Scanner danner what is the part# for the test light the you use in this video thank you
is it possible to check the ignition coil by looking if it has spark at the end of the coil? i dont have a test light nor a multimeter