Great paint for the window trim on the 50-80,s cars and the most muscle-cars. And we can now got a chrome engine in our cars!! Here i am sitting with my 4 sheets of Bare metal foil.
Excellent presentation Paul, a real breakthrough on chrome application, a lesson to scale model paint manufactures in how to solve and create a quality product(s).
I get the light coat but what pressure do you spray at. I usually spray ProScale Paints at 15 as recommended and the 2k at 25 (again as recommended). I can’t find a recommendation for the chrome.
Can you put the chrome directly on top of a black gloss like tamiya lacquer instead of the 2k clear over black primer? also Using the chrome as a base for a candy coat, at what stage should i put the candy on? Many thanks Paul.
Hi Paul. I have a question. I have a Caddy in my stash, but as well as the bumpers it has a lot of chrome on the sides, wider than the usual trim on most cars. And I'm trying to think of how to do the chrome so it matches the bumpers. I'll probably be doing it turquoise. I'm thinking if I paint the car and the bumpers all turquoise, then clear over every, then mask and put chrome on top of the clear will that work? Or would I need to mask the chromed areas on the body then spray them black then do the chrome? What I'm trying to avoid is having different layers of paint/primer/clear etc between the colour and the chrome, if you follow me. Because on the body I'd have fewer layers than the chromed areas. As in on top of the chromed areas already covered by the body colour I'd have, say, black primer and clear. Whereas if I just put clear over everything I could just mask the body chrome the add the chrome paint. Have I explained that right?! Basically will the chrome paint still work over turquoise? Obviously I'd put the same colour, turquoise or black, under the bumper chrome to make them match.
@InternationalScaleModeller I thought you'd say that! So, in order... Turquoise all over, then mask and spray the black, then clear, then chrome then take the masking off then clear everything?
That looks fab Paul. I have the Limpkin Park Mercedes GT3 livery to do at some point in the future, which requires the entire car to be chrome. Presumably, the process would be the same and decals would go on after the sealer and 2K had been applied?
I too would like to avoid toxic 2k , I will try urethane 2k , it's just as durable but you can safely use that with respirators available, zurcs 2k range are really shiny and dry hard as a rock .
Nothing can beat properly sprayed Alclad Chrome on properly laid Black Gloss (I recommend Tamiya X-1 enamel(!) of course unless Alclad kills it on its own by not producing it anymore) @@InternationalScaleModeller
I get the light coat but what pressure do you spray at. I usually spray ProScale Paints at 15 as recommended and the 2k at 25 (again as recommended). I can’t find a recommendation for the chrome.
Great paint for the window trim on the 50-80,s cars and the most muscle-cars. And we can now got a chrome engine in our cars!! Here i am sitting with my 4 sheets of Bare metal foil.
Excellent presentation Paul, a real breakthrough on chrome application, a lesson to scale model paint manufactures in how to solve and create a quality product(s).
This looks awesome thanks Paul
Great tutorial, thanks for sharing
I get the light coat but what pressure do you spray at. I usually spray ProScale Paints at 15 as recommended and the 2k at 25 (again as recommended). I can’t find a recommendation for the chrome.
I spray all our paints at 20psi :)
Can you put the chrome directly on top of a black gloss like tamiya lacquer instead of the 2k clear over black primer? also
Using the chrome as a base for a candy coat, at what stage should i put the candy on? Many thanks Paul.
No it’s needs the 2k clear base to work properly and if using candy it would need to go on after the 2nd 2k ckearcoat
I notice you you didn’t thin the 2K clear. Will putting thinner in the 2k clear affect the chrome.
It will yes so it’s an important step to follow :)
@@InternationalScaleModellerOk, thanks for replying mate. 👍
If you need to apply decals at what stage would recommend applying them
After the 2nd clearcoat
Hi Paul. I have a question. I have a Caddy in my stash, but as well as the bumpers it has a lot of chrome on the sides, wider than the usual trim on most cars. And I'm trying to think of how to do the chrome so it matches the bumpers. I'll probably be doing it turquoise. I'm thinking if I paint the car and the bumpers all turquoise, then clear over every, then mask and put chrome on top of the clear will that work? Or would I need to mask the chromed areas on the body then spray them black then do the chrome? What I'm trying to avoid is having different layers of paint/primer/clear etc between the colour and the chrome, if you follow me. Because on the body I'd have fewer layers than the chromed areas. As in on top of the chromed areas already covered by the body colour I'd have, say, black primer and clear. Whereas if I just put clear over everything I could just mask the body chrome the add the chrome paint. Have I explained that right?! Basically will the chrome paint still work over turquoise? Obviously I'd put the same colour, turquoise or black, under the bumper chrome to make them match.
Hi Steve. It needs the black to get the proper effect so you would have to paint the panels black before chrome
@InternationalScaleModeller I thought you'd say that! So, in order...
Turquoise all over, then mask and spray the black, then clear, then chrome then take the masking off then clear everything?
@stevehoulihan726 don’t forget the sealer too
@@InternationalScaleModeller Sealer can go under the 2k can't it?
Yes it does :)
That looks fab Paul. I have the Limpkin Park Mercedes GT3 livery to do at some point in the future, which requires the entire car to be chrome. Presumably, the process would be the same and decals would go on after the sealer and 2K had been applied?
Yes after the full process and then clearcoat again after decals
@@InternationalScaleModeller thanks Paul 😃👍
Looks like 2K over a black primer is the best way to get a decent shiny black for chrome paints.
Yes buddy
Sadly I can’t use 2K, if it’s lacquer based it should work with Mr Hobby superclear?
I too would like to avoid toxic 2k , I will try urethane 2k , it's just as durable but you can safely use that with respirators available, zurcs 2k range are really shiny and dry hard as a rock .
Would you say this is better than Alclad Chrome?
Yes by far as you can handle it
Nothing can beat properly sprayed Alclad Chrome on properly laid Black Gloss (I recommend Tamiya X-1 enamel(!) of course unless Alclad kills it on its own by not producing it anymore) @@InternationalScaleModeller
Fantastique résultat !! Were in France ??
Direct from us only for the foreseeable future
Love it
Well crap. Now I have to place another order. Deffo have to get some of that.
My response was exactly the same 😮
I get the light coat but what pressure do you spray at. I usually spray ProScale Paints at 15 as recommended and the 2k at 25 (again as recommended). I can’t find a recommendation for the chrome.
I spray all our paints at 20psi :)