just ordered one of those glass screens from your website thanks for having great stuff available in the UK it will look great on my mcwill game gear. did you work out in the end why his first board didn't work.
Before working on electronics (or any sort of complex board), take several photo with your phone!! That way, if you get confused, you have it for reference. If you can, print it and place it next to your work space.
I do want to reccomend for future recaps to remove the old solder since the electrolytic fluid leaks in these into the solder on the pads and flowing new into old doesnt remove that.
I remember walking into my local toy/game store back in 91/92 (i was 14/15) maybe and seeing one of the staff members playing with this thing that looked bloody amazing and futuristic to me, he let me have a go, it had a jet game in it that just roared into life, loud and clear sound, colour picture, i swore to myself i would get one these Game Gears, years later i bought one from a car boot sale, the power cable was shot sadly but with batteries i got it working, for some strange reason it just was not the same, after years of playing on the Playstation and N64 it had lost its appeal sadly.
for those looking to do this repair be Warned, there is 2 different revisions of the GameGear, the Original 2 ASIC version and the revised single ASIC version, both require different capacitor kits
@@jwhoa1733 there are guides online explaining the differences but its as it sounds, in later models the compressed some functions into a single chip to reduce production complexity look on google images they should have comparison pictures
For anyone trying to do this. Use a hot air station to remove those surface mount caps. If you rip them off like this you risk ripping off the pads. If you do this it is a massive headache
Just one more thing. you should never, but never rip smd capacitors of the board, since you can rip off the pads that connects the whole circuts, and therefore youll have to bridge capacitor legs with other components. Use hot air station if you have for smd components.
When soldering you really need to hold the iron against the pad and leg of the component for 2 seconds or so to let the heat flow through properly, avoid "dabbing" the joint. Hold the heat on, apply the solder, and remove the heat. Enjoying the videos, keep it up
Yeah, that's the purpose of flux, to avoid the pad from oxidizing before applying the solder but I generally don't use flux for small solder joints since the wire comes with a flux core. I only use flux when I really need it like with dirty pads or that oxidize fast. I use it all the time when using wick.
Console 5 has cap kits, replacement audio and power PCBs, and also provides useful information on all models of the game gear PCBs and their capacitor locations. I managed to get rid of all of the old capacitors on my game gear, but I haven't gotten around to placing in the new ones in the main PCB (since it's tricky to make them all fit into a small space...). The good thing about this is that further corrosion has been prevented.
Be VERY careful about ripping the caps out, you run the risk of pulling out the solder pads and then you have to scrap open the trace and solder to that, which is very fiddly (and I'm totally talking from experience). The safer way to go is to heat the solder and then pull out the legs out while it's in a "liquid" form. Otherwise, this is a great project to cut your teeth on when you're just starting out with console repair.
When!, we see that the video is sponsored by Duracell. Then and only then will all the batteries be the same. But I think its just like the guy in the RED Sock's on the KGF Classic Cars TH-cam channel, who keeps Slamming the Bloody Doors on all the old car's... He does it just to get a reaction... ☺☺☺
Congrats on the refurb. Glad to see people are still holding onto these. My condolences on the brutally short battery life with it though! Those things would DEVOUR them.
FINALLY although I hate to criticise I can't stress enough the importance of bending the capacitor legs flush with the caps base and then using tweezers to shape the legs parallel to the board, you need them trimmed as short as you can. If you don't the caps shake themselves loose or risk shorting or grounding out on others components, it's why they were glued in place and put in shrouds originally. Also DON'T buy cap kits, they are often out of spec, awkwardly sized and use cheap Chinese or Indian capacitors. A lot of failed recaps are caused by people crushing the new caps when they screw the console back together again (causing the rapid on and off flash) buy good quality correctly sized caps from RS Components. It's also important to neutralise any leaked electrolytic fluid on the board with vinegar and then alcohol as it can cause boards to short out and damage components as well. As for the glass lenses I think they have their cons, the original lenses respond excellently to being buffed with meguiars plastx and also retrobriting if they are yellowed at all, even though they scratch more easily they take a lot more effort to crack/shatter and can always be rebuffed unlike the glass ones.
There are pros and cons to every method some use SMD caps, some don't. Some pre bend, some bend after. Either way you are bending the cap legs, weather that be presoldering or after and they also have the same chance of shaking loose. Caps coming loose normally means the pads haven't been cleaned or properly tinned along with the caps, My caps are all from RS or Farnells, I buy the closest best quality cap available at the time of buying for the kits, equally I also try to by the best sizes, again not always possible. I normal always try for Panasonics but they arn't always available in a suitable close voltage rating. If caps are placed correctly then the issues with screwing together doesn't exists. I think Elliots done a good job here, he tried, he admitted he messed up. The board is on the way back to me so i will have a good look and see if i can get it working. If not i'll ribbon swop the LCD onto a know working board
@@labfifteenco2176 I know it has been some time but I would love to know what the outcome was of the original board? Were you able to diagnose the issue?
I found 2 capacitors with corrosion in mine. Replaced those 2, reassembled and now it's back to working again. Be careful though, the brightness wheel is fragile, I broke mine and had to hot glue it in a stationery position for now until I get a replacement.
I wonder if testing the system after replacing one capacitor at a time could help it gradually get used to all the new power. I just got another GG which has horizontal and vertical lines (the latter may never be fixed), so I'm going to recap it and perhaps even get a McWill screen for it.
I watched when Colin had refurbished one of these (This Does Not Compute) and thought I would decide to do so as well. I'll be watching both of your videos for reference!
Great video, quick and to the point some others waffle on for nearly a hour but this one is bing bang bosh. I got a couple of GG I need to repair. Wish me luck. :)
Am glad that gamegear has been saved but i can imagine ruin the first motherboard accident all because 1 wrong capacitor, that’s really sad because the more gamegear’s there will be permanentdly amaged and or thrown away, the more scarse a gamegear will be in the not so distance future.
Hey, I am facing the same issue with power. I have changed power board's capacitor and when I opened it the game gear turn off and when I try again stayed open. How do you manage to fix this? Can you answer me?
I had my game gear for a couple weeks before my brother spilled ice cream into the buttons. I was too young to repair it so my parents donated it to the goodwill. It wasnt new or anything, got it from a yard sale but still. At least I had my gameboy still.
I did this capacitor replacement on my Sega Game Gear VA1 model. The trace on my main board came off for the negative side of capacitor C68. Anyone know where it leads to so I can run a wire to it? I have the schematics in PDF format, but they are too small to read.
The only experience I've ever had with the Game Gear was in 2nd Grade, we had some sort of carnival day at school and everyone was supposed to have an attraction you were running for half of it and the other half you got tickets to spend elsewhere- I spent tickets to play on a Game Gear, which I had NEVER heard of before. I wasn't a Sega kid, but I was just like "What the HELL is this Genesis gameboy" I didn't like it
My brother got one recently new in box (even the manual, but no power brick), but the screen just flicker once when turned on and then goes black again. :(
You can't simply replace polymer capacitors with the same value electrolytics. I'm not an expert on this but I think that you have to take the ESR into account before selecting the electrolytics and you may also need different capacitances.
They are not polymer caps, they are electrolytic caps with a less common shape. If you crush the plastic shell, you'll see the capacitor can inside. Also it's generally fine to swap even tantalums with electrolytics, not all circuitry is ESR sensitive.
Elliot here, back at you again with the mixed batteries! I've been meaning to refurb the Game Gear I have, but I need to find out where you can purchase those battery doors; basically the only thing really wrong with it.
OMG YASSSS I have that exact Sonic game! i tried to fix my Game Gear some months ago but...yeah... NOP! Gotta give it another go following this video. Have to get the parts again since i ruined them all...yei clumsy me!
Leaving this comment in 2024 finding all the links in the description are dead and this video is mostly useless. I'm having a discrepancy on some capacitor values for the VA1 board and the capacitor kit I purchased, which said it was complete but is missing some and says some are different values. Which makes no sense to me, so I started searching for more references. Sorry, I mean no offense to the channels owner.
I'd certainly never suggest you remove any component like that, just never, not at all. It's a sure way to rip off a pad and destroy the PCB. Such a bad bad idea.
The retro future wins the award for most battery manufacturers used in a single product. Like really? You couldn't have bought some from the shops for like £1 or something?
I’m not sweating the technique as nothing he did was wrong his solder amount was good a lot of people use way too much solder. But the amount of flux he uses is insane. Flux is generally just needed if your making a trace or newer to soldering I guess you would use it. But def do not glob it ok like that. When you open up some of the old handhelds you’ll notice some mega staining on the board which is either from the cap leaking or in his case. The insane amount of flux. Like I said it’s not wrong. It’s just a lot of flux. It’s not needed. I also recommend using liquid flux
With all due respect . he was actually very sparing with it. How ever After using flux you should always clean the component with alcohol as it is very corrosive.. with rosin flux there could be "too much solder" but again thos was very minimal...Flux removes any oxidized metal and seals out air preventing further oxidation and allows the solder to flow much much easier... you also say hos amout of solder was correct... this is where I would be questioning thing as the original solder was never wicked or even sucked from the board... you should always suck then wick the pads or at least just use the wick to soak up all of the old solder. All of the original solder was used and more was added. I'm not just adding thos comment to be a dick, but to educate as I have been doing this for many years. I'm not perfect nor claim to be bit if I can teach someone the right way then I'm glad to do so. Most people dont even attempt to fix their own things or are too lazy to try thinking they cant. He at least did his best and that's all you can ask from anyone.
And just a word of advice.... whenever your removing or installing USE FLUX! I'm not sure who taught you not to really use it obviously, but it makes soldering and getting solder to flow a million times easier, faster and better!
@@tailsthegreenninja2003 Yes. It cost's less than a 3L Bottle of Frosty Jack in Scotland now. Which is now over £11.00 to buy but was until may 1st only £5. Then it was not such a bargain as it is now... ☺☺☺☺
Glad i could save the day on this one....you cant save the all unfortunately
Awww. :(
Why didn't you source smd caps for this repair? Not judging just curious.
@@darkus2015 SMD are really difficult for the beginner to solder, very few kits out there contain SMD parts for this reason
just ordered one of those glass screens from your website thanks for having great stuff available in the UK it will look great on my mcwill game gear. did you work out in the end why his first board didn't work.
Them*
Before working on electronics (or any sort of complex board), take several photo with your phone!! That way, if you get confused, you have it for reference. If you can, print it and place it next to your work space.
For the US viewers, console5 is the best place for cap kits, good video elliot
I do want to reccomend for future recaps to remove the old solder since the electrolytic fluid leaks in these into the solder on the pads and flowing new into old doesnt remove that.
Thanks
Is Hand held legend good too?
Oh my god, when he pulled off the battery covers and exposed the 6 different AA batteries it gave me a major OCD attack. ^_^
I remember walking into my local toy/game store back in 91/92 (i was 14/15) maybe and seeing one of the staff members playing with this thing that looked bloody amazing and futuristic to me, he let me have a go, it had a jet game in it that just roared into life, loud and clear sound, colour picture, i swore to myself i would get one these Game Gears, years later i bought one from a car boot sale, the power cable was shot sadly but with batteries i got it working, for some strange reason it just was not the same, after years of playing on the Playstation and N64 it had lost its appeal sadly.
Thanks for sharing your memories!
:D
)-: ..!Blasfemy
Wait so, he did the full repair and it didn't work then wizzed through the installation of a replacement board!? WTF was the point in recapping?
Right wtf....
So fucking annoying as that’s the bit I wanted to see
The “replacement board” had new capacitors in it.
If he did I would Leake
Just listen
for those looking to do this repair be Warned, there is 2 different revisions of the GameGear, the Original 2 ASIC version and the revised single ASIC version, both require different capacitor kits
How do we know which is which?
@@jwhoa1733 there are guides online explaining the differences but its as it sounds, in later models the compressed some functions into a single chip to reduce production complexity
look on google images they should have comparison pictures
For anyone trying to do this. Use a hot air station to remove those surface mount caps. If you rip them off like this you risk ripping off the pads. If you do this it is a massive headache
Just one more thing. you should never, but never rip smd capacitors of the board, since you can rip off the pads that connects the whole circuts, and therefore youll have to bridge capacitor legs with other components. Use hot air station if you have for smd components.
I have ripped a couple of pads off my main board and don’t know how to fix them 😭
@@Fleewood52 you can bridge it with small wire
When soldering you really need to hold the iron against the pad and leg of the component for 2 seconds or so to let the heat flow through properly, avoid "dabbing" the joint. Hold the heat on, apply the solder, and remove the heat. Enjoying the videos, keep it up
Yeah, that's the purpose of flux, to avoid the pad from oxidizing before applying the solder but I generally don't use flux for small solder joints since the wire comes with a flux core. I only use flux when I really need it like with dirty pads or that oxidize fast. I use it all the time when using wick.
This completely depends on the soldering iron wattage. If the wattage is high, holding it for two seconds can be enough to lift small pads.
@@8bitbubsy Well you shouldn't be using a non-temperature controlled iron for electronics in the first place so wattage shouldn't be an issue
@@cncgeneral Fair enough, but not all people do.
Console 5 has cap kits, replacement audio and power PCBs, and also provides useful information on all models of the game gear PCBs and their capacitor locations. I managed to get rid of all of the old capacitors on my game gear, but I haven't gotten around to placing in the new ones in the main PCB (since it's tricky to make them all fit into a small space...). The good thing about this is that further corrosion has been prevented.
Sounds good! Hope the installation all goes well.
Be VERY careful about ripping the caps out, you run the risk of pulling out the solder pads and then you have to scrap open the trace and solder to that, which is very fiddly (and I'm totally talking from experience). The safer way to go is to heat the solder and then pull out the legs out while it's in a "liquid" form. Otherwise, this is a great project to cut your teeth on when you're just starting out with console repair.
I’ve ripped a couple of pads off my main board, do you know how to fix them?
@@Fleewood52 I'm not sure if you can fix the pads themselves, but soldering directly to the trace is a solution
Okay kids toghether now,
Jelly👏Belly👏Customs👏
2:08 - Blasfemy! Two of the batteries are of the same brand! 😋
Nice video as always, dude!
Thanks Luke!!
When!, we see that the video is sponsored by Duracell. Then and only then will all the batteries be the same.
But I think its just like the guy in the RED Sock's on the KGF Classic Cars TH-cam channel, who keeps Slamming the Bloody Doors on all the old car's... He does it just to get a reaction... ☺☺☺
Congrats on the refurb. Glad to see people are still holding onto these. My condolences on the brutally short battery life with it though! Those things would DEVOUR them.
FINALLY although I hate to criticise I can't stress enough the importance of bending the capacitor legs flush with the caps base and then using tweezers to shape the legs parallel to the board, you need them trimmed as short as you can. If you don't the caps shake themselves loose or risk shorting or grounding out on others components, it's why they were glued in place and put in shrouds originally. Also DON'T buy cap kits, they are often out of spec, awkwardly sized and use cheap Chinese or Indian capacitors. A lot of failed recaps are caused by people crushing the new caps when they screw the console back together again (causing the rapid on and off flash) buy good quality correctly sized caps from RS Components. It's also important to neutralise any leaked electrolytic fluid on the board with vinegar and then alcohol as it can cause boards to short out and damage components as well. As for the glass lenses I think they have their cons, the original lenses respond excellently to being buffed with meguiars plastx and also retrobriting if they are yellowed at all, even though they scratch more easily they take a lot more effort to crack/shatter and can always be rebuffed unlike the glass ones.
There are pros and cons to every method some use SMD caps, some don't. Some pre bend, some bend after. Either way you are bending the cap legs, weather that be presoldering or after and they also have the same chance of shaking loose. Caps coming loose normally means the pads haven't been cleaned or properly tinned along with the caps, My caps are all from RS or Farnells, I buy the closest best quality cap available at the time of buying for the kits, equally I also try to by the best sizes, again not always possible. I normal always try for Panasonics but they arn't always available in a suitable close voltage rating. If caps are placed correctly then the issues with screwing together doesn't exists.
I think Elliots done a good job here, he tried, he admitted he messed up. The board is on the way back to me so i will have a good look and see if i can get it working. If not i'll ribbon swop the LCD onto a know working board
@@labfifteenco2176 I know it has been some time but I would love to know what the outcome was of the original board? Were you able to diagnose the issue?
I found 2 capacitors with corrosion in mine. Replaced those 2, reassembled and now it's back to working again. Be careful though, the brightness wheel is fragile, I broke mine and had to hot glue it in a stationery position for now until I get a replacement.
I wonder if testing the system after replacing one capacitor at a time could help it gradually get used to all the new power.
I just got another GG which has horizontal and vertical lines (the latter may never be fixed), so I'm going to recap it and perhaps even get a McWill screen for it.
Man I love that feeling after refurbishing a console and it turns on and everything works
Congrats on 300 subscribers on your other channel
Steven Serrano he’d have a lot more if he put it in the description 🤣🤣
I watched when Colin had refurbished one of these (This Does Not Compute) and thought I would decide to do so as well. I'll be watching both of your videos for reference!
Great vid! I wish I had kept mine after it died. I was just a kid when that happened though, never knew you could do home repair.
When I did mine, the pads on a few caps had come almost completely off. That could have been the problem as it's pretty common due to the corrosion
Great fix! Glad you got it working, re capped mine at the weekend using a schematic, works a treat. Thanks for the video
I never realized how huge the game gear was to the game boy.
Love your Passion... most underrated Handheld :)
And dont forget elliot, play this Unit Every Month ... ;) the Caps Love that
Great video, quick and to the point some others waffle on for nearly a hour but this one is bing bang bosh. I got a couple of GG I need to repair. Wish me luck. :)
Am glad that gamegear has been saved but i can imagine ruin the first motherboard accident all because 1 wrong capacitor, that’s really sad because the more gamegear’s there will be permanentdly amaged and or thrown away, the more scarse a gamegear will be in the not so distance future.
No intro for this video? Your intro is the most satisfying on Youtbe, it's half the reason I am subscribe to your channel :'(
i want an oldskool gameboy clean like the gameboy color display, but with that same awesome green. i love it lol
I like that name as well, rolls off the tongue quite well.
Actually what happend that sega game gear didint turned on? I really wanna know cuz the same happend to me and idk how to fix it
Hey, I am facing the same issue with power. I have changed power board's capacitor and when I opened it the game gear turn off and when I try again stayed open. How do you manage to fix this? Can you answer me?
Thanks for making this my game gear has a comparator probably and i didn't k ow how to fix it
Is it just a screwdriver to remove the screw in the center where the game slides in?
I had my game gear for a couple weeks before my brother spilled ice cream into the buttons. I was too young to repair it so my parents donated it to the goodwill. It wasnt new or anything, got it from a yard sale but still. At least I had my gameboy still.
This trail mix of batteries takes me back lol
Congrats on getting 300 subscribers on your other channel
you should have change the bulb back light to backlight panel they have them at handheld legends brighter screen and more colorful
I'm having an issue with a space with a capacitor it's too small can capacitors be touching should I just find a way to make it fit what do I do
Video quality rising every day! 🔥
Ohhhh no Gameboy repairs interesting. Can you repair/mod a Pokémon mini. I know there quite rare.
will you make an LED mod?
When my gamegear had this problem i just spld it, wished i kept it and followed your vid!
I mean sold
@@mksenterprise2388 Oh. I thought you said plit. 😂
I did this capacitor replacement on my Sega Game Gear VA1 model. The trace on my main board came off for the negative side of capacitor C68. Anyone know where it leads to so I can run a wire to it? I have the schematics in PDF format, but they are too small to read.
Rechargable battery mod next? 🤔😁
The only experience I've ever had with the Game Gear was in 2nd Grade, we had some sort of carnival day at school and everyone was supposed to have an attraction you were running for half of it and the other half you got tickets to spend elsewhere- I spent tickets to play on a Game Gear, which I had NEVER heard of before. I wasn't a Sega kid, but I was just like "What the HELL is this Genesis gameboy"
I didn't like it
I have to do this will be my first time is it super hard ?
My brother got one recently new in box (even the manual, but no power brick), but the screen just flicker once when turned on and then goes black again. :(
That's been around for a long time there. I would have to say probably around the 1990s.
You can't simply replace polymer capacitors with the same value electrolytics. I'm not an expert on this but I think that you have to take the ESR into account before selecting the electrolytics and you may also need different capacitances.
They are not polymer caps, they are electrolytic caps with a less common shape. If you crush the plastic shell, you'll see the capacitor can inside. Also it's generally fine to swap even tantalums with electrolytics, not all circuitry is ESR sensitive.
@@8bitbubsy thanks, good to know
Such a oddly nice console to look at. It looks nice and clean, have you ever thought about doing this for a job ;)
Elliot here, back at you again with the mixed batteries!
I've been meaning to refurb the Game Gear I have, but I need to find out where you can purchase those battery doors; basically the only thing really wrong with it.
Im miss the intro,btw,nice vid Elliott..
Very cool. The Game Gear is full of excellent games.😊
You should get your hands on a Coca Cola Game Gear and make a video. That would be awesome.
OMG YASSSS I have that exact Sonic game! i tried to fix my Game Gear some months ago but...yeah... NOP! Gotta give it another go following this video. Have to get the parts again since i ruined them all...yei clumsy me!
Better luck next time!
I never had a game gear, always heard it was a real battery guzzler!
I think so too!
Leaving this comment in 2024 finding all the links in the description are dead and this video is mostly useless. I'm having a discrepancy on some capacitor values for the VA1 board and the capacitor kit I purchased, which said it was complete but is missing some and says some are different values. Which makes no sense to me, so I started searching for more references. Sorry, I mean no offense to the channels owner.
You forgot to clean up all the gunk from those bleeding capacitors
I'd certainly never suggest you remove any component like that, just never, not at all. It's a sure way to rip off a pad and destroy the PCB.
Such a bad bad idea.
Using 6 different batteries probably wasn't the smartest idea either...
Thanks Jon for the flux.
with the other game gear use the same capacitors and see what happens when you turn it on
I have one i want to paint the shell pink. But im no going to open it i don’t know how i found it in my old house is completely new with games
What happened to your awesome intro?
The retro future wins the award for most battery manufacturers used in a single product. Like really? You couldn't have bought some from the shops for like £1 or something?
Nonono you must mix batteries.
Hey Matthew here from jelly belly capacitors and screens
im confused on how the power board caps were changed they are through hole you should be able to put the new caps nicely in there
They are not through hole. They are all surface mount, just a different type.
You got way too much faith in those poor little pads. ^^
id love to see a translucent Sonic blue case mod for it as well as a rechargeable battery mod,
I have a Sega game gear but it won’t turn on even if I use the cord for it does anyone know what is wrong with it
i have a game gear and i think it alone has taken 5 years off my life expectancy
2:09 covering that battery with your finger will not fool me. you had 2 batteries of the same type, out of 6. how dare you.
I’m not sweating the technique as nothing he did was wrong his solder amount was good a lot of people use way too much solder. But the amount of flux he uses is insane. Flux is generally just needed if your making a trace or newer to soldering I guess you would use it. But def do not glob it ok like that. When you open up some of the old handhelds you’ll notice some mega staining on the board which is either from the cap leaking or in his case. The insane amount of flux. Like I said it’s not wrong. It’s just a lot of flux. It’s not needed. I also recommend using liquid flux
With all due respect . he was actually very sparing with it. How ever After using flux you should always clean the component with alcohol as it is very corrosive.. with rosin flux there could be "too much solder" but again thos was very minimal...Flux removes any oxidized metal and seals out air preventing further oxidation and allows the solder to flow much much easier... you also say hos amout of solder was correct... this is where I would be questioning thing as the original solder was never wicked or even sucked from the board... you should always suck then wick the pads or at least just use the wick to soak up all of the old solder. All of the original solder was used and more was added. I'm not just adding thos comment to be a dick, but to educate as I have been doing this for many years. I'm not perfect nor claim to be bit if I can teach someone the right way then I'm glad to do so. Most people dont even attempt to fix their own things or are too lazy to try thinking they cant. He at least did his best and that's all you can ask from anyone.
And just a word of advice.... whenever your removing or installing USE FLUX! I'm not sure who taught you not to really use it obviously, but it makes soldering and getting solder to flow a million times easier, faster and better!
The best videos retro future
What is the best games for the SEGA Gamegear?
Sonic
Shining Force in my opinion ...
Streets Of Rage..
Ristar
It's totally worth it for a o g sega game gear it's basically a portable sega master system aso it can play sega master system games
HAHA, LOOK! HE IS NOT USING FLUX AG...
OH!
You should look at the McWill screen mod.
Look great! Pricey though.
i know some people dig this kind of music but man, i can't handle it.
Can't please everyone.
@@TheRetroFuture I, for one, love it, and I'm a metal dude.
I wish I had a Game Gear.
If you have a GBA or a DS Check look for this on Ebay " Sega Master System 106 in 1 ". It's mostly Game Gear games that are on the cartridge.
I have seen those before. Is it worth it?
@@tailsthegreenninja2003 Yes. It cost's less than a 3L Bottle of Frosty Jack in Scotland now. Which is now over £11.00 to buy but was until may 1st only £5. Then it was not such a bargain as it is now... ☺☺☺☺
How much in dollars? I'm actually North American.
@@tailsthegreenninja2003 The Game Cartridge or the Frosty Jack... ☺
About $13.00
Just Google it. ( sega master system 106 in 1 )
Great beats man
What is the purpose of capacitor?..
What's that greasy paste you have used?
Flux!
The scond music link is broken.
Screen mod incoming?
Listening to the phone call sounds so strange as an American xD
Why don't people recap them with SMD capacitors?
woah woah woah woah, mixing batteries? c’mon dude...
Great vids man
The verge fixes gamegears
Where’s the intro go?
You are a pip! U.S. for funny in a silly way! Jelli belly customs indeed! LoL
Please do an ips mod for one of these
is he wearing a sherlock hat with only one bill?
You should try making a wii portable
So we watch a broken mod?
Nice video, Edit.
Thanks!
Elliot, by the way :)
Wher's the intro?