That was so helpful. Thank you! I just ordered a bunch of oxides and want to try them out. How do you decide if you’d like to put it on greenware, bisque, under or over glaze as you mentioned? For example, why would I choose to put it on greenware over bisque or viceversa? Thanks again!
The only thing really to consider between greenware and bisque is that it's very difficult to do an oxide wash on greenware as when you wash away the excess oxide with a sponge it turns the clay surface to slip which mixes with the oxide and muddies the effect. It's also easier to get higher concentrations of oxides on bisque I find. In terms of under or over glaze it depends how strong you want the oxide, how precise the edges/lines, whether you want a wash etc. Wash goes under glaze. Strong, precise oxide patterns are worth trying on top but I would start under a glaze for any effect first personally. Although, if you're looking for a particular effect I would always say that it's best to test. Do a bunch of small, quick tester pieces that you can then number and try different applications on each to see what works best for what you want 😊
@@PaulaArmstrongCeramics sounds like applying on bisque will be the way to go for a beginner. I'd like to achieve an older/ancient look as well. So maybe sponge it on in layers (of different colors?). Thank you so much for your reply!
@@katiakatiakat yeah, sponging on in layers works well, especially with some overloaded oxides like manganese that gives a metallic look. You can add in some stains and glazes sponged on too if you want to add a pop of colour 😊 I did this for my sculptural heads for years 😄
Hi. Titanium oxide is used mainly as a glaze ingredient. It's an opacifier and can add a crystalline quality to a glaze. Titanium isn't an oxide that I have experience with but there's great information on digital fire here digitalfire.com/material/titanium+dioxide Hope that helps 😊
After putting oxide on bisque ware do i need to bisque fire again before i glaze or can i put glaxe over the top of the oxide and stoneware fire? Thanks!
You can apply the glaze on top of the oxide although you do have to be careful about smudging the oxide and contaminating the glaze. If you prefer you can apply oxide at the greenware stage, except if you want to do a wash back, then when it's bisque fired the oxide is going to stay in place better for glazing.
It seem that you have forgotten that the copper oxyde and carbonate change whith de glaze. If the glaze is acid = grenn but if the glaze is basic = blue turquoise ... It's important isn't it ?
Without having it tested it's hard to be sure about food safety of a glaze or finish but I would play it safe and suggest that it's best to put oxide under a glaze and even then, make sure that it's not too heavy on the application. Personally I use them only where food safety isn't an issue, instead relying on the glaze manufacturer's food safety labels 😏
Sorry for the delay in replying. This is a bit of a tricky one to answer. In theory yes, as long as you don't overload the oxide and the glaze over the top is stable and food safe but the only way to know for certain is to test it. This isn't my area of expertise as I don't make many things that need to be food safe but there are some tests you can do yourself with vinegar and lemon juice that are a good place to start. If you want to sell it may be worth getting them tested in a lab though.
It depends on how thick the oxide is applied and which oxide. The thicker it is the more likely it is to stick. I generally only use a wash on any areas that are going to be in contact with a kiln shelf. I've also found copper and manganese are more likely to stick than say iron. I only fire to cone 6 so I would expect things to stick more at cone 10 too.
Excellent video, thank you. I have a query I hope you can help me with...Can I mix the oxides you mention into the clay body, to colour the clay itself? I've come across a few videos online where this has been done, but the oxides are always mixed into stoneware. I use earthenware clay only (lower firing temp) and would really appreciate your thoughts on this. Many thanks!
Yes, you can but I'd suggest you test it on a small quantity of clay first. It also needs to be mixed very well or it'll be more marbled than coloured. It's also worth trying different quantities of oxide to test intensity but careful not to overload or it may stick to your kiln shelf or split the clay Have fun 😄
Useful information, but I still don´t know nothing about how to mix the oxides respectively when do I know I got the right consistency and how do I apply the oxides for the best results. brush? dip? How long must I wait bevor I can put my stuff in the oven. What temperature is reccomanded.....
Hi. You can mix oxides just with water and the consistency depends on the how opaque you want the finish. The thicker it is the more opaque it will be although too thick and you'll get an overload effect, sometimes done on purpose. Generally I say the tonal quality stays the same through firing, it's the colour that changes. You can apply with sponge or brush and if you're doing a wash you cover the surface then wash it back with a damp sponge. I've never dipped but I would never say you can't dip, you'd have to try and see how it goes. As with any finish, it's best to leave it until the piece has dried before firing it in the kiln. The temperature is whatever the firing temperature is for your clay/glaze you're using the oxides with. Hope that helps.
Thank you for the video :) Please help me I have a question. Should I use glaze over oxides (black iron, manganese and copper) for vases or planters? What happens if I paint oxides not wipe them all and fire to high temp? Will it come off after the firing or sticks to the object anyway? Thanks a bunch 😊
As long as you fire to the higher end of your firing range you should be fine not to cover with glaze. I have pieces that have been outdoors for years finished with oxides that have all fared well, both washes and solid applications. ☺️
Hmmm, rutile might be worth a look but equally have you considered underglazes or stains? They have more stable colours although they need to have a transparent glaze over for anything functional...
Hmmm, I've never tried making an oxide myself so I'm sure how to answer that part. I would say if you do, make sure it's safe and test before you use it on something precious or important. It would be great to hear how you get on ☺️
That's a tricky question to answer as it depends entirely on what effect you want at the end. I tend to work with it heavy so probably closer to 25% mixed with 75% water. I'll often just sponge it on with a wet sponge so that's likely even thicker. But I am heavy handed in my finishing so if you're after more finesse or a light cover of colour something closer to 10% would be a good wash. You could then layer up if needed too I find a good rule of thumb when using oxides without a glaze over, is that the tone you see before firing will pretty much stay, it's just the colour that will change. So if you want something completely covered you need to be sure you can't see any clay through - although be aware of what the oxide will do when overloaded. Or if you want colour just in the dips, wash it back after applying it well. If applying glaze over the top, you may need to add more oxide, particularly with iron and manganese. Does that help?
Hi. The usual glaze on top of a copper oxide wash is transparent so keep the detail. Transparents and white glazes would turn the copper green. If it's copper as the colourant in the glaze, it will give you green. Other glazes that have another oxide in them could counter that and you then get whatever colour that the combination gives.
I don't, I just mix with water, but some do. I tend to use manganese and iron both of which apply well with water. Things like cobalt or copper I could see the benefits of a flux.
As a visual learner it would be great to see examples of everything you’re talking about.
Excellent video. I was watching this other video about oxides and i still didnt understand what they were. This cleared my questions up.
Examples on test tiles or finished pieces would be good.
Thank you for a great explanation about oxides. It’s been a mystery to me.
Great information thank you. I would have loved to see some examples of the colours before and also after glazing.
Thanks for the feedback 😊
Nice ! I use oxides together witn washing soda, kind of a saltglaze.
Thanks. Clear and informative.
Very informative! Thank you for this video!
Thank you! Wonderful explanation and details!
That was so helpful. Thank you! I just ordered a bunch of oxides and want to try them out. How do you decide if you’d like to put it on greenware, bisque, under or over glaze as you mentioned? For example, why would I choose to put it on greenware over bisque or viceversa? Thanks again!
The only thing really to consider between greenware and bisque is that it's very difficult to do an oxide wash on greenware as when you wash away the excess oxide with a sponge it turns the clay surface to slip which mixes with the oxide and muddies the effect. It's also easier to get higher concentrations of oxides on bisque I find.
In terms of under or over glaze it depends how strong you want the oxide, how precise the edges/lines, whether you want a wash etc. Wash goes under glaze. Strong, precise oxide patterns are worth trying on top but I would start under a glaze for any effect first personally.
Although, if you're looking for a particular effect I would always say that it's best to test. Do a bunch of small, quick tester pieces that you can then number and try different applications on each to see what works best for what you want 😊
@@PaulaArmstrongCeramics sounds like applying on bisque will be the way to go for a beginner. I'd like to achieve an older/ancient look as well. So maybe sponge it on in layers (of different colors?). Thank you so much for your reply!
@@katiakatiakat yeah, sponging on in layers works well, especially with some overloaded oxides like manganese that gives a metallic look. You can add in some stains and glazes sponged on too if you want to add a pop of colour 😊 I did this for my sculptural heads for years 😄
Titanium oxcides are mixed with what to apply to bisque clay please
Hi. Titanium oxide is used mainly as a glaze ingredient. It's an opacifier and can add a crystalline quality to a glaze.
Titanium isn't an oxide that I have experience with but there's great information on digital fire here digitalfire.com/material/titanium+dioxide
Hope that helps 😊
After putting oxide on bisque ware do i need to bisque fire again before i glaze or can i put glaxe over the top of the oxide and stoneware fire? Thanks!
You can apply the glaze on top of the oxide although you do have to be careful about smudging the oxide and contaminating the glaze. If you prefer you can apply oxide at the greenware stage, except if you want to do a wash back, then when it's bisque fired the oxide is going to stay in place better for glazing.
It seem that you have forgotten that the copper oxyde and carbonate change whith de glaze. If the glaze is acid = grenn but if the glaze is basic = blue turquoise ... It's important isn't it ?
If used over a glazed bisqueware will they be food safe?
Without having it tested it's hard to be sure about food safety of a glaze or finish but I would play it safe and suggest that it's best to put oxide under a glaze and even then, make sure that it's not too heavy on the application. Personally I use them only where food safety isn't an issue, instead relying on the glaze manufacturer's food safety labels 😏
Hello, thank you for the video! Pls, can one use oxides on earthenware plates if you cover with food safe glaze?? Thank you!!
Sorry for the delay in replying. This is a bit of a tricky one to answer. In theory yes, as long as you don't overload the oxide and the glaze over the top is stable and food safe but the only way to know for certain is to test it. This isn't my area of expertise as I don't make many things that need to be food safe but there are some tests you can do yourself with vinegar and lemon juice that are a good place to start. If you want to sell it may be worth getting them tested in a lab though.
An object that is completely covered in an oxide without glaze, will it stick to a kiln shelf at cone 10?
It depends on how thick the oxide is applied and which oxide. The thicker it is the more likely it is to stick. I generally only use a wash on any areas that are going to be in contact with a kiln shelf. I've also found copper and manganese are more likely to stick than say iron. I only fire to cone 6 so I would expect things to stick more at cone 10 too.
Excellent video, thank you.
I have a query I hope you can help me with...Can I mix the oxides you mention into the clay body, to colour the clay itself?
I've come across a few videos online where this has been done, but the oxides are always mixed into stoneware. I use earthenware clay only (lower firing temp) and would really appreciate your thoughts on this.
Many thanks!
Yes, you can but I'd suggest you test it on a small quantity of clay first. It also needs to be mixed very well or it'll be more marbled than coloured. It's also worth trying different quantities of oxide to test intensity but careful not to overload or it may stick to your kiln shelf or split the clay
Have fun 😄
Useful information, but I still don´t know nothing about how to mix the oxides respectively when do I know I got the right consistency and how do I apply the oxides for the best results. brush? dip? How long must I wait bevor I can put my stuff in the oven. What temperature is reccomanded.....
Hi. You can mix oxides just with water and the consistency depends on the how opaque you want the finish. The thicker it is the more opaque it will be although too thick and you'll get an overload effect, sometimes done on purpose. Generally I say the tonal quality stays the same through firing, it's the colour that changes.
You can apply with sponge or brush and if you're doing a wash you cover the surface then wash it back with a damp sponge.
I've never dipped but I would never say you can't dip, you'd have to try and see how it goes.
As with any finish, it's best to leave it until the piece has dried before firing it in the kiln.
The temperature is whatever the firing temperature is for your clay/glaze you're using the oxides with.
Hope that helps.
Thank you
Do you fire a decorative biskware decorated with only manganese oxide before glazing? I want the oxide decoration to remain crisp and dark.
You can, absolutely and it would help in keeping the lines crisp as the oxide won't move when you glaze over it ☺️
Thank you for the video :) Please help me I have a question. Should I use glaze over oxides (black iron, manganese and copper) for vases or planters? What happens if I paint oxides not wipe them all and fire to high temp? Will it come off after the firing or sticks to the object anyway? Thanks a bunch 😊
As long as you fire to the higher end of your firing range you should be fine not to cover with glaze. I have pieces that have been outdoors for years finished with oxides that have all fared well, both washes and solid applications. ☺️
@@PaulaArmstrongCeramics thank you very much ☺️🙏🏻
Is there an oxide I could make at home that would be a light color, whiteish, cream, wheat/tan etc.?
Hmmm, rutile might be worth a look but equally have you considered underglazes or stains? They have more stable colours although they need to have a transparent glaze over for anything functional...
Hmmm, I've never tried making an oxide myself so I'm sure how to answer that part. I would say if you do, make sure it's safe and test before you use it on something precious or important. It would be great to hear how you get on ☺️
Thanks for this. Do you have recommendations on ratios? As in 4% solution, 1%, etc?
That's a tricky question to answer as it depends entirely on what effect you want at the end. I tend to work with it heavy so probably closer to 25% mixed with 75% water. I'll often just sponge it on with a wet sponge so that's likely even thicker. But I am heavy handed in my finishing so if you're after more finesse or a light cover of colour something closer to 10% would be a good wash. You could then layer up if needed too
I find a good rule of thumb when using oxides without a glaze over, is that the tone you see before firing will pretty much stay, it's just the colour that will change. So if you want something completely covered you need to be sure you can't see any clay through - although be aware of what the oxide will do when overloaded. Or if you want colour just in the dips, wash it back after applying it well.
If applying glaze over the top, you may need to add more oxide, particularly with iron and manganese.
Does that help?
@@PaulaArmstrongCeramics yes, thanks so much!
Nice detail, but wondering about the glazes that would be used to turn copper oxide to greens?
Hi. The usual glaze on top of a copper oxide wash is transparent so keep the detail. Transparents and white glazes would turn the copper green. If it's copper as the colourant in the glaze, it will give you green. Other glazes that have another oxide in them could counter that and you then get whatever colour that the combination gives.
do you mix a flux with oxides for easier application to clay?
I don't, I just mix with water, but some do. I tend to use manganese and iron both of which apply well with water. Things like cobalt or copper I could see the benefits of a flux.
Thank you very helpful 😊
Glad it was helpful! 😊
A few demonstrations would have been useful together with the finished outcomes.
Thanks for the feedback. I'll keep it in mind for future videos :)
Examples would've been good, thanks
Noted for next time 👍
Sous-titres en français svp
Je ne sais pas comment fire ca au moment... Mai's je vais rechercher ☺️ merci
*faire
can't hear it. T
Yes, it was really too quiet
Thanks for letting me know. I've now bought a microphone so hopefully the sound on my videos will get better...🤞