35mm FILM PHOTOGRAPHY - HOW TO DEVELOP JUST ONE NEGATIVE
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 พ.ค. 2020
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I have shown this before but thought I'd make a more informative video especially for new subscribers and those that ask me about the process.
I used Ortho so I could show the process under safe light.
One thing I didn't mention is to make sure your film is inside the tank with the emulsion side facing outwards!!!
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I forgot to mention in the video. The emulsion side of the film should face the developer. Not face the wall of the can. Go with the natural curl of the film as you see in the video. 🙂
The way the price of film is going we will all be using this method.
Seen the price of Acros II? Crazy
I take it large format is not in your plans.
You can always chose Foma :)
This is about 3 times the cost of film if developed as a single roll. Chances are you will lose at least a frame or two with each attempt at removing a single frame. Winding the film afterwards will cause more frames to be lost and damaging those wound up on the reel. A Polaroid would be the best tool obviously. Otherwise, deep breathe, go shoot more frames or wait till you have another subject or two.
@@marksummers5504 why would you wind the film?
Simply genius. How to use only a frame of whole film role to create such a simple beautiful photo. Also like the flower against window light.
I've been using for my film canister pinholes as well. I use 3 separate canisters filled with 1+15 HC110, stop, and fix. A baking pan as a work space in a 3mil contractor garbage bag pulled up to my shoulders and dark bathroom is pretty light tight. I just move the piece of film from one canister to another.
Excellent tip ..for trying a camera if working
That is the smallest developing tank i have ever seen 😁 but making cuts in the camera is new for me, very good tip! Thanks!!
👍Thanks good video as always.
Got a stash load of expired film in the fridge and this is a great way to carry out test exposures before committing the full roll.
Thank you for this video. I have used this method from you by watching your early videos and now I have seen it in detail. Thanks mate. Cheers!
I was always curious how you were able to cut the negative at the right spot. Really cool video. Thank you for sharing.
Wow - fantastic!!!
Thanks for sharing. I developed half roll before never a single frame. Now i know how to.
I used to do quite a bit of copy work in the days before scanners and used a very similar method! Great video again Roger keep them coming they’re great inspiration 👍
Looks very funny! Good for trying film or camera. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you very much! I need it for long time 🙏🙏
Great video as always!
very nice! Never seen that before. thx!!
I’m testing a 3D printed camera and needed an easy way to verify if the film is flat when exposed without having to waste a whole roll. Love it!
You certainly are the master of random photos.
I have stored exposed film inside those black canisters, and found them to not be completely light-tight.
I think the development technique you are using is so quick (minutes) that the film is likely not compromised.
An old fashioned metal container might be 100% light tight.
I haven't tested mine.
I love your single-frame-development idea.
A 120 film canister, with less than full developer liquid inside might provide a bit more aggressive agitation if desired.
That's the fun in testing stuff and seeing what happens. I'm often playing with agitations in these cans to see what differences I get.
So many content, thanks) never thought of developing only one frame, I always make rolls with required film lenght from bulk expired big rolls I have around. I have only one complain: music is getting a little bit repetative
I think this is a good way to tell if your film is used or not. Already went through a blank roll because I thought it was used when it wasn’t.
Takto isto raz dávno strihal film v kamere canon f 1 old kolega a nožnicami
prerazil titanovú foliu závierky. Oprava bola drahá. Tak opatrne...
I have dozens of undeveloped roll of films and I watched how to develop one frame !
Talk about lazy Sunday afternoon . Now I have to figure out how to cut frame by frame to not destroy any important images . In my case it is easy - cut aniwer . 🙂
I love your video !
Peter
If the whole roll is exposed, why cut it, unless you shot it for developer testing? Just get off your tripod and get it into the tank and slosh it around!
Might want to clarify -- emulsion should be *in* -- that is, base side of the film is the side contacting the film can. BTW, the way you have the chemicals set up, there's no good reason you need either a black film can (most 35mm cans are translucent these days) or ortho film -- you can just do all the work in total darkness. Prepoured developer, pour out into the catch pitcher (easy enough by feel), then dip the stop and dip the fixer as you showed (or just slide the film out of the can into the fixer). Once the film has been in the fixer for about a minute, you can turn on the lights.
Then you're one step closer to tray developing large format film...
Yeah I added the emulsion detail in the description as I forgot to mention it.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Is it possible to retroactively fix the info box message at 3:45 , because it states the opposite.
@@olafwDE cheers Olaf. Shame YT won't allow us to add any titles after uploading. Changed
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Perfect. Thank you, Roger.
I roll my own 35mm film just to have short rolls, but I do it so I can give each image the development I think it needs. If I've shot an image I want to give N-1 development I don't want an image requiring normal or N+1 development to be ruined by being on the same roll. I won't allow more than 10 frames onto a roll under any circumstances. My normal roll is 4 frames, plus leader and tail of 2 frames each. With that, I have more than enough flexibility to try whatever filters I want. If you feel that's wasteful, how many frames out of a roll of 24 or 36 does one actually get around to printing? Be well there.
Clever. I can see why you use slowish ortho film for this!
I only used ortho so you guys can see for the video. I usually use pan in total darkness.
Putting the film into the canister. What side of the film should be in the inner side of the canister?
Emulsion side facing the developer. Not facing the wall of the tank
It seems to me that if the photo is important enough to go to all this bother, it's too important to risk all the things that could go wrong. I'd rather shoot two or three frames (just in case) then open the camera in a changing bag, snip off the exposed portion, then load it onto a reel and develop it in a tank as normal.
Of course, if it's an important photo. This is just a bit of experimental fun with a Hat. No bother.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Well, there's that. Something to try while self-isolating, if nothing else! Take care...
Do you cut a new leader for the remaining roll of film?
I can shape a new leader if I want to use the rest of the roll normally. If I want to continue like this I'll put the roll back in its canister so the film hanging out never sees light and reload another strip.
This is cool as shit.
Ha ha it's fun
ever thought about a Monobath with this?
I've never tried it Simon.
can we only use black canister?
As long as its light tight. I wouldn't try a clear one!
Shoot Film Like a Boss what do you recommend to us to use if we don’t have a developing tank?
@@camillebulaclac7697 anything that is light tight and won't allow liquids to leak out. But if you heve a film cannister like the one in this video it's ideal to use.
Thank you so much😇