Variable ISO From Your Film CAMERA? YES! The Stand-Development Tutorial
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.ค. 2024
- Using the STAND-DEVELOPMENT method to develop your B&W film allows VARIABLE ISOs with your film camera! I show in this video that you can expose the same roll of film from ISO 400 to 3200 and even ISO 6400!
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So stand development is like HDR for black and white film photography. This is incredibly cool
It’s pretty useful. I like that it gives you so much to work with in post.
This is such a great tutorial. I love your style and how great you are at explaining the ideas you cover. Always love your videos
Glad I could help. Thanks!
I love stand development, well, semi stand. 1:100 Rodinal for 60 minutes for the win! I even did a 1:300 Rodinal for eight hours. Negs came out terrible. So back to 1:100 at 60!
Good information. I enjoy it as well. Still haven’t tried Rodinal! I’m stuck on HC-110 for close to a decade now.
There is something when you explain that makes it very enjoyable. Thank you Proffesor. Cool video
Haha thanks
@@FilmPhotographyChannel you welcome. Can i do this with color film?
@@bryanotero123 Unfortunately this doesn't work for color film. I actually tried it.
Semi Stand developing works great with 16mm motion picture black and white film.
You can also add Glass balls in the bottle. Instead of squish the bottle together. That's been used for many years.
I’ve heard of people using marbles also.
Thanks for the video. I can’t wait to try this myself.
Excellent video! I am looking forward to your next release.
Wonderful tips, thanks for sharing your experience!
Great stuff man, thank you so much for this!
Great video! Very informative.
Super informative, thanks!
Great video! By far the best one I've found of stand development.
Thanks so much
I am about to do that exact thing. Thanks so much for this video!
Once again, exhaustive and highly useful.
Nice video Eric , Very interesting and great examples .. fantastic explanation and tutorial..
Great info, thanks!!!
Really useful and informative video! I've just started home development - will be trying stand development for my next roll!
Love your thorough explanation! Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Amazing video. Super comprehensive and thorough. Thanks so much.
Thanks for stopping by!
Incredible great tutorial. I do have to test this. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
This was what I was looking for! Have been using SD as this vid shows with ISO 400 film at 3200 and getting good results.
I hope you have a great 2020, and make many more videos. Love your content.
Thanks so much. I wish you a great 2020 as well and I plan on posting a lot this year.
Excellent!
Great video. I love how you provide comparison tests, allows us to make decisions instead of just believing what is written. The exposing for different iso test is very eye opening
Thanks, I learned a lot also by making this video.
thatwas really informative and useful many thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Really good video, thanks for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank You for making this video.
I have a roll I’m going to finish today, which includes some really low light concert footage. I think I metered the roll of Tri-X at 1600 and was taking the shots at f1.8 and 1/60. So I’m really excited to see if this helps.
Thanks again.
Interesting and helpful, thanks!
Thanks for watching!
I never tried stand development before... But after seeing those comparisons, WOW!!! I definitively will try it!
I was just as surprised as anyone after trying it for the first time. I haven’t looked back since. Every B&W roll that I develop is now stand-developed.
Very informative video! Well done!
Thanks so much. Pls share my vids.
very interesting; thanks a lot! :)
Eric, this is the best youtube on stand develop---by far
Thanks a lot. That’s good to hear!
You introduced me to Minolta system, so you're the MAN! Very informative video, but for stand development from where do i have to take my times? Trusty source.
Very very informative!
Glad it was helpful!
Hello Eric.
Thank you very much your videos🙏🏻
I´ve taken- and developed lots of Tri-x 135 films, back in the seven-ties.
Mostly Exposed acc. 26 DIN and developed in Microdol-x diluted 1 + 3 and prolonged time for develop, temperature 20C. Result: Some of the Best negatives ever made, sharp, Rich gray tones, no blocked High-lights and a very good render in the Shadows☺️
longing back Thise days and now I’ll try to do it again😊 All Thanks due to your enlightened work, videos🤗
Keep up the good work you´r doing, Eric💪
Thanks🙏🏻💐
Thanks so much I enjoy film photography immensely. I'm not sure how I missed your comment. I would've responded much sooner. Thanks again.
very interesting
Hello, I am blown away at the results of the modified stand, mid way agitation, stand development. My photography teacher, in High School circa 1973, would say "damn things are changing to fast around here" wonderful video, I subscribed because you love film photography. peace.
Thanks so much for the sub. Yep, I really do love film photography.
I had never heard of StdDev before and that opens up a whole perspective on film photography. I mean, I almost want to say: just pop a roll of B&W in an M3/M2 and shoot, then StdDev and you'll probably get very very many properly exposed frames without the hassle of breaking out a lightmeter (obviously this is as long as you're 4 f-stops above or below actual "correct" exposure which, when you know f/16 rule is pretty easy to acheive). Furthermore, all those details that come up from the shadows or the higlights!!! Very impressive and helpfull. Thank you for sharing. Have a great year :)
You’re welcome. Have a great 2020!
Thank you eric! Another great video… i did came to stand dev before this tutorial, tmax shot accidentally at variable iso, so i took the plunge with ilfotec HC, 1:100 dilution, semi stand dev for an hour and it came out great
Your video only reconfirming the results i got was not fluke! You are amazing teacher…thank you for the explanation as to why stands the development is great too
Ow btw, that bromide drag, occured to my normal process c41, i wonder why, and only on few exposures thiugh, not the whole rolls… but now i know how it happened
Thanks so much. I’m glad you you found it helpful. I’m about to try out stand Dev with Rodinal to see how it goes. 😀
Great !
Eric, AWESOME!!!
I have a few rolls of Kodak Technical Pan in my freezer. With Technidol developer gone bye bye, I may be able to get good results from TechPan with HC110 but still have useable contrast. You are already aware that TechPan an anything other than Technidol can range from excessive contrast to pure black or white litho results. This is something to consider once I’m up and running and have my techniques down.
If you a serious about processing Tech Pan to a normal contrast, look up POTA on line or in a book of developers. Stand development is mostly high or miss,particularly with uneven development. POTA has few ingredients and was formulated specifically for films like Tech Pan, long before Kodak produced a developer specifically for that film. Back in the 1980s when it was a fad, I mostly shot landscapes with Tech Pan and POTA. I got the results I wanted, but with an ISO around 12-25, it was slow going. In exchange I got B&W pints aty 16x20 inches which folks regularly took to be shot on Hasselblad.
Hello Eric what a great reviews you put on cameras which helps someone like me I’m an ex photographer now I work as a film director and photography is back to my life as a great every day hobby
Sorry for the long intro I would like your opinion it will be a great help I’m hesitant between the contax g1 , konica hexar & the Minolta cle
Thanks keep it up
Wow, so these are three great cameras that I've studied (a little) but never owned. They all have a cult following on some level. The Contax G1 ($200-$600 with a 45mm or 90mm Zeiss lens!) has a pretty bad (and loud) autofocus system with a pretty bad manual focus (by a top mounted dial) option! You can get really, really good Zeiss lenses for hundreds (not thousands) of dollars. The lenses are tack-sharp and superb. They have zooming viewfinders that change depending on the lens that's mounted vs frame lines like you'd see in the viewfinder of a Leica M rangefinder. FYI, the G2 has a better focusing system and is compatible with a wider range of lenses over the G1 to include their 35-70mm zoom. The Konica Hexar is a fixed lens autofocus 35mm camera with a 35mm f2 lens and motorized film advance. The Hexar RF ($800-$900)is the interchangeable lens model that fits Leica M Mount manual focus lenses, Zeiss ZM and Konica KM lens mounts. The RF is a fine camera with aperture priority, motorized film advance and by all accounts (I've never held one) lesser build quality when compared to a Leica. The Minolta CLE ($650-$900 body only) is small, light, aperture priority, and manual TTL exposure, manual focus M-Mount Minolta-branded camera made by Leica. It's best used Minolta's 40mm f2 lens designed for the CLE. While you can of course mount a 35mm or 50mm M-Mount, there are no frame lines for either. The CLE has 28, 40 & 90mm frame lines. I personally like the 40mm focal length a lot. The small body of the CLE means that the rangefinder window is closer to the viewfinder window which is less than ideal when focusing a 90mm or longer lens. Full-sized Leica bodies have these two windows further apart which increases accuracy when focusing (especially) longer lenses. Leica goggles (for dual range or wide-angle lenses) won't fit for the same reason. Some of Leica's really fat lenses like their 50mm Noctilux f1.0/f.95 and other of their newer ASPH lenses actually block the tiny rangefinder window which prevents focusing! ALL THAT being said, it's hard for me to recommend a camera that I haven't used. I've actually considered buying all three of these but haven't pulled the trigger yet. I would research the cost and availability of CLA (clean, lube and adjust). The Contax and Konica have some pretty old electronics and motors for the film advance so make sure they are repairable still. As always, make sure the seller has a return policy. I hope this helps!
I know this isn't a very recent video but it was an absolute godsend sir. I recently acquired some Agfa SuperPan circa 1980's with no additional history whatsoever. So far I've tried hc110 dilution B at for 14 minutes with very mixed results. I will definitely be trying this method you featured in the video so thanks a lot for that.
PS: I'd be happy to load a few rolls for you to do some tests of your own if you wish!
Hi, I’m glad you found it helpful. I would of course tread carefully since your film is very old indeed. Don’t forget to agitate once to prevent bromide drag.
@@FilmPhotographyChannel I got severe drag from agitating once so I'll need to tweak the method for this test
Hmm, I haven’t ever had that happen with a single agitation at 35 min. Maybe agitate twice?
@@FilmPhotographyChannel I'll probably do it once every 15 minutes and see if that works. Also let me know if you'd like me to send you some of it to mess around with
Thanks for a very interesting video. You described the process excellent. I will try this next time I develop. One question: my room temperature is normally a few degrees warmer. Hot would the development time be adjusted if the development temperature is about 72 degrees?
Check out the Massive Dev Chart which can be downloaded as an app. It has tons of information like developing times (even with different chemical ratios, ie 1:50 etc), temperatures and how to properly process virtually any brand B&W film with different brand developers. It’s a treasure trove of information. It even has a built in timer that you can use while your processing your film.
You should do a video showing your entire camera collection!
Hah! How much time do you have? Lol.
Lots of good info here; I'll have to re-watch it and take notes. I shot a roll of Tri-X last year but have been too scared to try developing it yet. It was shot at "12800" because the event was a horribly-lit concert stage.The venue couldn't be bothered to even put a spotlight on the singer, let alone anything decent on the other players.
What I did was meter at the highest the camera would go (3200) and use exposure compensation to pretend the film was 2 stops more sensitive than that. 2 or 3 shots might have been taken at correct exposure however. I'm not looking for anything approaching accuracy here, but nor do I want the roll to turn out all-black ... with my 50mm ƒ1.8 the recipe called for 1/60th or 1/90th and somewhere between wide open and ƒ2.8.
Dunno why I'm worrying; they're probably all blurry anyway.
... I'd read on someone else' blog how they used HC-110 for some crazy amount of time (12 hours? More?) in order to be able to "shoot Tri-X at 12800." I don't remember the dilution nor how I could maintain a constant 68 or whatever for that long without first adjusting the house thermostat. But I think that's the road I'm headed down.
I've only developed two rolls before life got in the way last year. One roll was fine and the other had excessive grain. Exposures were generally correct. I chalked the bad roll up to inattentiveness to the details of temp and time. I also learned that "little splashes" of prepped D-76 try to do unfortunate things to wood floors if left alone.
Hi, if you look at my photos in the video that were taken at ASA 6400, they were pretty contrasty and largely lacked shadow detail. I never tried conventional push processing, ie regular dilution, with extended development to push the iso this high. If the entire roll was shot at 12,800, you could of course push process. If you shot at vastly different ISO’s on the same roll, then stand development would be the way to go. Using any developer for really long times like 12 hours would not be any different than if you developed a highly diluted HC110 mix for 2-3 hours. There comes a time in stand development that the developer loses its effectiveness and stops developing the film. Btw, remember the single agitation halfway to prevent bromide drag! Also, you can expect Tri-X to be grainy under most circumstances. That’s why people love it. Under such severe pushing, it will likely be more grainy than usual, very contrasty and with little shadow detail. Not necessarily bad things. If you want a perfectly sharp B&W film free of grain and with tons of tones and shadow detail, try T-Max. I like both films for different reasons.
Do you think it would work with X-tol just as well? Also, thank you for the information!
I’ve never tried it with X-Tol but I don’t see why not. The concept is the same; highly diluted developer used for a long period of time.
Since when and why is pre washinging en vogue?
Kodak did not mention it in the job sheets.
The pre wash is in the instructions.
Not in mine; printed in 1965
@@FilmPhotographyChannel
is there any way to use D76 for this kind of development?
Hi, yes D76 can be used similarly to HC110. Same principle; highly diluted and long development times. I would recommend semi stand with a single agitation half way through to avoid bromide drag. Enjoy!
I've been told that you can do same thing with normal (not stand) development in Diafine. In other words you can shoot HP5 at 800 for one shot and 200 for another. This would be like one shot getting N-1 development and the other getting N+1 development. I haven; tried this yet but was wondering if you had any thoughts on that? Subscribed.
Thanks for the sub! In my video I show that you can shoot HP5 or Tri-X which are both 400 speed films, at 400 or 800 without having to alter your development times. I haven’t tried diafine so I couldn’t comment specifically on its use. I also don’t know what the advantage would be to shoot at 200 (there be some advantages, I just don’t know what they are). I found it really helpful to have 800 Asa available on these two films just in case.
@@FilmPhotographyChannel Thanks. I should have been more clear. I was thinking of a situation where you would want to increase or decrease the contrast range. In a low contrast scene with normal developers you might do an N+1 (longer) development to increase the contrast. But you would have to do this for the whole roll. I was told that with Diafine, being a two stage developer, you could shoot the low contrast scene at ISO 200 which would have the same effect as N+1, but then you could be shooting the remaining shots at box speed or, in a high contrast scene at 800 ISO which would be like N-1. This is due to the specific nature of Diafine. In fact the instructions that come with Diafine specify shooting at very different ISOs depending on the type of film. Again, I'm no expert on this, just trying to get more info to see what others think. I did one test with sheet film on a bright (high contrast day) and did see better results at the higher ISO.
@@jiml989 with diafine you have no choice, HP5 for example is ISO 800, Tri-X is 1200 I believe, look it up.
have you developed with multiple rolls simultaneously? I've heard that it causes bromide drag. I can test it out but I don't have cheap film to waste at hand 😅
I haven’t tried that but I don’t see how it would create bromide drag. Each roll is in an individual spool so it shouldn’t be an issue. Also the semi-stand process should eliminate the bromide drag when you agitate the film midway.
@@FilmPhotographyChannel hey I just developed 2 rolls simultaneously (portra 400 and portra 800) for 45 mins without agitation halfway and I did not see any issues!
Does this mean I can basically stop worrying about exposure and just choose my desired shutter speed and aperture if I use stand development?
Just go by my results as shown in the video. If you look at the results with the different asa speeds you do start to see degradation in shadows and contrast etc but when compared to “normal” development your film becomes much more flexible. Also remember that you can shoot TriX at 400 or 800 speed under the normal process as well as stand dev.
ilford does not reccomend a pre soak for HP5+
Thanks for the contribution. Good to know. I wasn’t aware.
Stand development has a place in the realm of B&W development, mainly to tame super high contrast scenes, like cities at night. It introduces several issues, including uneven tones and unacceptable density results (you have no control over the development process). A poor choice for regular use otherwise.
That’s simply not true. It sounds like you’re simply repeating something you heard once.
@@joeltunnah I've been developing my own film since 11958. I've made my own B&W, color negative and E-6 positive chemistry for 35 years. There's almost nothing in the realm of B&W photo chemistry I have not extensively explored. Stand development gives the user no control over the development process. It is hit or miss. It yields uneven tonal areas and so-called bromide drags. Most who try it in its pure form end up using the same chemistry, but agitating every 15 or 30 minutes to try to mitigate those uneven areas. It has been often described as "B&W for lazy people", which has some truth. Go for it, fanboy!
Wow I’m sorry if I offended you. I thought it was interesting and just wanted to share.
Hi, im not sure how a film shot at "variable iso" makes any sense, iso in film is iso, you can shoot it with it metered at a different speed for example but this doesn't make it a different speed, surely you would need to shoot the whole roll as though it were one Iso otherwise wouldn't it be under or overexposed for some frames if they're at different iso?
The whole premise of stand developing is that you can shoot a roll of film at different ISOs as I outlined in the video. In effect the photographer is under or overexposing the film and the stand developing process evens out the pretty wide margins in exposure. The advantage is (one example) that if you need to use a faster shutter speed than your film iso would allow, your now free to do so because the SD process will compensate. Hope this helps.
@@FilmPhotographyChannel thanks for the quick reply, I just re-read my comment and it reads as criticism, not meant to so apologies if it seems that way. My comment was more that we can only meter and shoot as though it is a different iso as we can't change the iso even if we set as 200, 400, 800 etc on the camera as this either just affects the metering or is just a film type reminder. I've never used syand developing so wasn't aware of how this could stop the image reading as over or underexposed.
Hi no worries at all. I didn’t take offense but thanks for elaborating. You should try out stand developing. I like how the tonal range of the film seems to be increased. Lots of shades of grey.
@@FilmPhotographyChannel i have some Rodinal R09 on the way so will hopefully get to have a go soon. I've been using cinestill Df96 recently and can't express enough how disappointed I've been so I'm hoping stand developing with Rodinal R09 will at least give me the right exposure. Cinestill seems to be underexposing I even tested by metering 200 film as 100 and pushing to 400 hoping I would be somewhat over exposed or average out the monobaths underexposing and it came out under again...
I’ve never had even moderate success with mono bath. The folks a FPP told me it’s not meant for T-Grain films like TMax. That was a few years ago. I don’t know if they’ve improved it since then.
A film’s ISO or sensitivity to light doesn’t change. When you shoot a film at an ISO other than it’s true speed you’re shooting at a different exposure index, not a different ISO. Since a film’s sensitivity to light/ISO never changes.
Can I suggest that you look into the lens instead of your monitor while filming?
Thanks for all the tips. I’ll try to do better.
Wait a minute, I don’t think I ever said the ISO changes, but that you can shoot at different ISOs and still get a proper exposure if you incorporate stand development vs conventional development. Yep, that’s what I demonstrated in this video.
@OverDubb, he’s changing the metering *as if* it was a different ISO film. Seriously dude, it’s obvious. Can I suggest that you think a little before dropping snarky comments on people’s videos?
Joel, you should learn film. A film’s ISO never changes, no matter how you set the meter. As I said, you set a different exposure index for film, you don’t set it to a different ISO. This isn’t digital. Do your research. Go ahead, Google Exposure Index.
@@gottanikoncamera nobody has said the ISO of the film is changing. Not one person. So who exactly are you arguing with? Go take some pictures man.
Had a fair bit of trouble with Br drag in the past, so gave up stand. However, this has re-kindled my interest, there's a roll of Fomapan 100 waiting. That's a lowish contrast film so stand may help boost it a bit.
As an aside, try a wine bottle vacuum for keeping developer fresh - works a treat! www.johnlewis.com/john-lewis-partners-wine-saver-and-bottle-stopper-set/p231634381.
Try semi-stand to reduce the Br drag. Just give a small amount of agitation every 10 to 15 minutes.
I use high contrast microfilm in my 16mm Minolta and Mamiya cameras and agitate every 20 minutes but Br drag is not as big a problem with the smaller format.
Here are a couple of examples.
www.flickr.com/photos/high2hal/49070347973/in/dateposted-public/
www.flickr.com/photos/high2hal/49165933558/in/dateposted-public/
And here is the film slit to 9.1mm for Minox cartridges
www.flickr.com/photos/high2hal/49161315666/in/dateposted-public/
You need to use rodinal, there’s no bromide in it. Bromide drag is only an issue with HC-110 and other developers.
And any agitation in stand with Rodinal is going to up the perceived grain, so do the first minute only.
I’ve put an order in for Rodinal. I’ve been using HC110 for so long it’s time for a change. The information in your comment about bromide is good information. Thanks for weighing in.
@@FilmPhotographyChannel no problem, thanks for demonstrating the results so perfectly!
Love your channel, glad you’re still active. Be well.
@@joeltunnah Cheers Joel. I've been using rodinal semi-stand since watching Eric's video, mostly with Fomapan or Rollei. Twenty to thirty seconds twiddle initially, then one or two twiddles half-way through. Very little grain, good contrast. I over-exposed one frame, so repeated it correctly, there was so little difference between them it was difficult to tell which was which.
I'm sorry, but with film, you're stuck with one ISO until you finish the roll.
With them?
@@FilmPhotographyChannel I mean "film". Typo.
I'm not sure why you say that when I showed you that if you stand develop, you can use ASA 400 film from ASA 400 through 6400 as I showed you in my video. Or without stand development or push processing, you can still expose your ASA 400 film at 400 or 800 as per the manufacturer's instructions. What gives?
@@FilmPhotographyChannel If you check out his playlists it includes "I hate hipsters" and "Being a dickhead's cool" (grammar gives away age here). Nothing malicious from what I see ... it is a form of admiration.