I burned for years at caterpillar we had a track cutter we always had the torch up and down the head you could set at any angle you wanted had degrees on the head I always used a separate torch in front of the cutting torch at 45 degrees it looked like it had been belt sanded was called champer for welding pieces together in one 8 hour night i burned 91 hours of labor on 1.5 inch metal both sides would burn one side flip it over and the second side burned faster but I still used the torch to keep it warm we had a cutting table with a square hole in the middle with a angle slide and a drop pan worked great that was 1989 new track cutters are different now we had buttons to turn gas on and we always set the heat of torch my eye sight😊
Should run a number 3 tip, here’s why. The 30° cut increases the total depth of cut. So where a number 2 tip is good for 1” square cut, the #3 is better for beveling 1” thick material.
I work in steel machine, I would like if you could make picture of the parts of this machine or tell me how much does it costs, think is the cheapest machine, cause you doesnt need to replace expensive razors. Think this is the best machine to bevel small plates , but also it can be used for long plates, just add space for movement of the machine. I am interestes how it moves, and all the parts that makes movement.
- "Close acytelene first to prevent the flame getting sucked up in the torch and then close heating oxygen..this will increase the torch life" TOTALLY WRONG! If you close the acetylene first, actually you are not closing the fuel instantly... 'till it's fully closed you are reducing the flow and the pressure of the fuel, while maintaining the flame, but! with the acetylene pressure being reduced and with the oxygen pressure being higher, the oxygen pressure will push the flame from the tip, to inside the torch, through the hoses, to inside de acetylene bottle. What prevents this to happen it's the pressure inside the acetylene bottle, but the emptier it is, the lower its pressure inside, so the flame can make it's way to inside the fuel bottle. What cut's the flame when you close the acetylene first, isn't what you think, that you are leaving the flame without fuel... what happens it's a flame return or "flashback", caused by the higher oxygen pressure pushing the flame, but! this time being cut by the Flame Arrestor Valve. You can notice if someone has closed acetylene first, and caused a flashback, and the flame was cut by the flame arrestor valve... cos it will cause a loud "BANG!" when cutting the flame. Flame Arrestor Valve it's a safety measure for "just in case", not as method to always cut the flame that way... the more you force the flame arrestor valve, the more chances you have for it to fail, and not prevent a flame return till the fuel bottle, and cause a disaster! It is in the safety regulations: change your Flame Arrestor Valves and hoses for new ones each 3 years maximum! So, ALWAYS close the gas with the higher pressure, in this case the oxygen... 'cos think on it, all the above happens cos of the higher pressure gas will always try, and it will, to push the lowest pressure gas, since both share the same circuit inside the torch... and if the pressure inside the lowest pressure gas's bottle is lower than the working pressure of the oxygen, nothing but an Arrestor Valve can prevent the oxygen to go inside the acetylene bottle. Also notice that acetylene doesn't need flame neither oxygen to burn and explode, even a 100% concentration of acetylene can burn without oxygen, and on high pressures it's explosive itself... that's why it's dissolved into liquid acetone inside a sponge into the bottle. And over a working pressure or "exit pressure" of 1'5bar it explodes, and the same if makes contact with copper or silver. This video it's one of the few times that someone says it right, but I'm the one that provides the explanation. You have to learn about the acetylene dangerousness and how gas pressure works inside a common circuit. NEVER teach to close acetylene first, again.
You don't have to preheat mild steels or carbon steels. The cutting process is exothermic so it generates more heat than you give in to start with. Just keep the feed rate constant and let oxygen do its work.
TOTALLY WRONG! If you close the acetylene first, actually you are not closing the fuel instantly... 'till it's fully closed you are reducing the flow and the pressure of the fuel, while maintaining the flame, but! with the acetylene pressure being reduced and with the oxygen pressure being higher, the oxygen pressure will push the flame from the tip, to inside the torch, through the hoses, to inside de acetylene bottle. What prevents this to happen it's the pressure inside the acetylene bottle, but the emptier it is, the lower its pressure inside, so the flame can make it's way to inside the fuel bottle. What cut's the flame when you close the acetylene first, isn't what you think, that you are leaving the flame without fuel... what happens it's a flame return or "flashback", caused by the higher oxygen pressure pushing the flame, but! this time being cut by the Flame Arrestor Valve. You can notice if someone has closed acetylene first, and caused a flashback, and the flame was cut by the flame arrestor valve... cos it will cause a loud "BANG!" when cutting the flame. Flame Arrestor Valve it's a safety measure for "just in case", not as method to always cut the flame that way... the more you force the flame arrestor valve, the more chances you have for it to fail, and not prevent a flame return till the fuel bottle, and cause a disaster! It is in the safety regulations: change your Flame Arrestor Valves and hoses for new ones each 3 years maximum! So, ALWAYS close the gas with the higher pressure, in this case the oxygen... 'cos think on it, all the above happens cos of the higher pressure gas will always try, and it will, to push the lowest pressure gas, since both share the same circuit inside the torch... and if the pressure inside the lowest pressure gas's bottle is lower than the working pressure of the oxygen, nothing but an Arrestor Valve can prevent the oxygen to go inside the acetylene bottle. Also notice that acetylene doesn't need flame neither oxygen to burn and explode, even a 100% concentration of acetylene can burn without oxygen, and on high pressures it's explosive itself... that's why it's dissolved into liquid acetone inside a sponge into the bottle. And over a working pressure or "exit pressure" of 1'5bar it explodes, and the same if makes contact with copper or silver. This video it's one of the few times that someone says it right, but I'm the one that provides the explanation. You have to learn about the acetylene dangerousness and how gas pressure works inside a common circuit. NEVER teach to close acetylene first, again.
Now that’s one heck of a cut!!! Very professional I’m definitely looking forward to more content
I burned for years at caterpillar we had a track cutter we always had the torch up and down the head you could set at any angle you wanted had degrees on the head I always used a separate torch in front of the cutting torch at 45 degrees it looked like it had been belt sanded was called champer for welding pieces together in one 8 hour night i burned 91 hours of labor on 1.5 inch metal both sides would burn one side flip it over and the second side burned faster but I still used the torch to keep it warm we had a cutting table with a square hole in the middle with a angle slide and a drop pan worked great that was 1989 new track cutters are different now we had buttons to turn gas on and we always set the heat of torch my eye sight😊
Should run a number 3 tip, here’s why. The 30° cut increases the total depth of cut. So where a number 2 tip is good for 1” square cut, the #3 is better for beveling 1” thick material.
That cut was perfect. It obviously worked. No need for nr 3.
Great video and an even better cut! Hard to find track machine content so thanx and feast thine eyes on the burn in that paw ouch!
Interesting. Have not did any cutting in years but. Great Video
I work in steel machine, I would like if you could make picture of the parts of this machine or tell me how much does it costs, think is the cheapest machine, cause you doesnt need to replace expensive razors. Think this is the best machine to bevel small plates , but also it can be used for long plates, just add space for movement of the machine. I am interestes how it moves, and all the parts that makes movement.
Victor makes a protractor adaptor with a pre -heater ,if you needed to bevel long piece ,you'd be there all day preheating w/out one.
How to build this machine ? Have you got the papers for parts to build it ?
- "Close acytelene first to prevent the flame getting sucked up in the torch and then close heating oxygen..this will increase the torch life"
TOTALLY WRONG!
If you close the acetylene first, actually you are not closing the fuel instantly... 'till it's fully closed you are reducing the flow and the pressure of the fuel, while maintaining the flame, but! with the acetylene pressure being reduced and with the oxygen pressure being higher, the oxygen pressure will push the flame from the tip, to inside the torch, through the hoses, to inside de acetylene bottle.
What prevents this to happen it's the pressure inside the acetylene bottle, but the emptier it is, the lower its pressure inside, so the flame can make it's way to inside the fuel bottle.
What cut's the flame when you close the acetylene first, isn't what you think, that you are leaving the flame without fuel... what happens it's a flame return or "flashback", caused by the higher oxygen pressure pushing the flame, but! this time being cut by the Flame Arrestor Valve.
You can notice if someone has closed acetylene first, and caused a flashback, and the flame was cut by the flame arrestor valve... cos it will cause a loud "BANG!" when cutting the flame.
Flame Arrestor Valve it's a safety measure for "just in case", not as method to always cut the flame that way... the more you force the flame arrestor valve, the more chances you have for it to fail, and not prevent a flame return till the fuel bottle, and cause a disaster!
It is in the safety regulations: change your Flame Arrestor Valves and hoses for new ones each 3 years maximum!
So, ALWAYS close the gas with the higher pressure, in this case the oxygen... 'cos think on it, all the above happens cos of the higher pressure gas will always try, and it will, to push the lowest pressure gas, since both share the same circuit inside the torch... and if the pressure inside the lowest pressure gas's bottle is lower than the working pressure of the oxygen, nothing but an Arrestor Valve can prevent the oxygen to go inside the acetylene bottle.
Also notice that acetylene doesn't need flame neither oxygen to burn and explode, even a 100% concentration of acetylene can burn without oxygen, and on high pressures it's explosive itself... that's why it's dissolved into liquid acetone inside a sponge into the bottle. And over a working pressure or "exit pressure" of 1'5bar it explodes, and the same if makes contact with copper or silver.
This video it's one of the few times that someone says it right, but I'm the one that provides the explanation.
You have to learn about the acetylene dangerousness and how gas pressure works inside a common circuit.
NEVER teach to close acetylene first, again.
This guy is the 🐐👌
Why not a Victor tractor?
Dude please take me as an apprentice. I understood everything so much
You don't have to preheat mild steels or carbon steels. The cutting process is exothermic so it generates more heat than you give in to start with. Just keep the feed rate constant and let oxygen do its work.
Thank you!
The easiest bevel 30 degrees.from 45 and more cut from the downface.
whats the maximum degree of bevels that can be made with this torch set up?
Just past 45 degrees
@@drreadthepuddle4332 i can cut up to 80 . from 45 and more you can go from the outside in .pl25 bevel 15/100 done the other days.
Dave is a God
What a legend 👌🏻
Awesome, It would be prefect if you put on your gloves for safety, beginners watch the video and copy it.
Well I don’t know about a God 😂😂 But I do love sticking metal together!!
Close acytelene first to prevent the flame getting sucked up in the torch and then close heating oxygen..this will increase the torch life
TOTALLY WRONG!
If you close the acetylene first, actually you are not closing the fuel instantly... 'till it's fully closed you are reducing the flow and the pressure of the fuel, while maintaining the flame, but! with the acetylene pressure being reduced and with the oxygen pressure being higher, the oxygen pressure will push the flame from the tip, to inside the torch, through the hoses, to inside de acetylene bottle.
What prevents this to happen it's the pressure inside the acetylene bottle, but the emptier it is, the lower its pressure inside, so the flame can make it's way to inside the fuel bottle.
What cut's the flame when you close the acetylene first, isn't what you think, that you are leaving the flame without fuel... what happens it's a flame return or "flashback", caused by the higher oxygen pressure pushing the flame, but! this time being cut by the Flame Arrestor Valve.
You can notice if someone has closed acetylene first, and caused a flashback, and the flame was cut by the flame arrestor valve... cos it will cause a loud "BANG!" when cutting the flame.
Flame Arrestor Valve it's a safety measure for "just in case", not as method to always cut the flame that way... the more you force the flame arrestor valve, the more chances you have for it to fail, and not prevent a flame return till the fuel bottle, and cause a disaster!
It is in the safety regulations: change your Flame Arrestor Valves and hoses for new ones each 3 years maximum!
So, ALWAYS close the gas with the higher pressure, in this case the oxygen... 'cos think on it, all the above happens cos of the higher pressure gas will always try, and it will, to push the lowest pressure gas, since both share the same circuit inside the torch... and if the pressure inside the lowest pressure gas's bottle is lower than the working pressure of the oxygen, nothing but an Arrestor Valve can prevent the oxygen to go inside the acetylene bottle.
Also notice that acetylene doesn't need flame neither oxygen to burn and explode, even a 100% concentration of acetylene can burn without oxygen, and on high pressures it's explosive itself... that's why it's dissolved into liquid acetone inside a sponge into the bottle. And over a working pressure or "exit pressure" of 1'5bar it explodes, and the same if makes contact with copper or silver.
This video it's one of the few times that someone says it right, but I'm the one that provides the explanation.
You have to learn about the acetylene dangerousness and how gas pressure works inside a common circuit.
NEVER teach to close acetylene first, again.
You should have been wearing gloves, just sayin!