Many shops use the torque wrench and torque sticks because it's way easier to train people to use them than it is to train them otherwise. It's takes a lot of practice and some destruction and parts expense to get the feel if you're doing damage or if you're erring on the side of being dangerously loose. I trust and prefer my methods. Others have often criticized me for this, but I've been doing this now every day, multiple times a day on the same cars for years on end. I like my results.
Great video man! Just as an FYI to anyone else replacing the rotors as well on a Subaru Impreza 2.5i (2007 for me) When removing the remaining caliper bracket, which you don't have to remove for just doing the pads, the rear caliper bracket bolts will likely be seized on. A quick Google search will show the majority of results involve how to fix a snapped caliper bolt! Do yourself a favor and spray the fastener and the mating surfaces with some PB Blaster, and then gently crack it with steadily increasing pressure with a breaker bar, or a piece of metal pipe slipped over your ratchet. Extracting a broken bolt form the back of the caliper doesn't sound like a great way to spend an afternoon!
It's to have a silicone based grease to facilitate lateral caliper movement. Two pads that wear over time and pressure from one side only. You have to have a means for centering and adjusting over time. The slide pins allow for this and the grease allows for free movement. The seal keeps the grease clean. The problem comes when there's crud plus grease or the wrong type of grease.
I really like your restate style. That's a great learning tool. What I do is I tighten until I see the socket slow down and then stop. As soon as it stops or binds I stop immediately. I visualize a graph with a downward sloping line that starts high on the Y axis (socket speed) and where it nears the X axis (Time) it stops as the line is near parallel, but not touching yet. If you continue till absolute stopping occurs, you will inevitably cause damage.
Just finished doing front brakes on my 08 Legacy thanks to your video. I would have taken a few pictures but the job went too quickly! Last week I did lower ball joints, shocks and rotors on my 97 T100 4x4. I suddenly feel empowered. Great videos and advice, thank you.
I torque a bit more than spec, but it isn't damaging the wheel, studs, or lug nuts. I see these cars over an over again for years. No one ever loses a wheel or has broken studs. The fasteners last. So I'm happy with what I'm doing. Many local shops that use torque wrenches and torque sticks have wheels fall off due to mechanical failures, failure to calibrate, and improper practices. I watch the socket slow down and then I let off when I feel and see it's appropriate.
@MichaelCosta84 I do it from a visual/forces approach. On the ground you have more forces involved. On the assembly line they are tightened while in suspension. I'm OK with it.
correct me on this, I was told when you compress the piston that the bleeder should be cracked open to allow fluid to escape instead of pushing it back through the system because there are tiny orfices that involve the abs and if the fluid is dirty at all it clogs the orfices and causes the abs light to come on and mess with the abs system. have you ever heard this or had it happen ?
The torque on the impact gun used to tighten the lug nuts will depend on the air pressure, and the particular type of impact gun. If you are doing this occasionally in your home garage with a small compressor the air pressure may not be as high that used in this video and you may not have the experience to know if all the variables add up such that the final "tap tap tap" of air ratchet has tightened the bolts well enough. I've had lug nuta tightened at shop come loose and destroy an alloy rim. I had them come back from a shop with brake pulsation because they lug nuts were not tightened uniformly. Now I use a torque wrench at home to double check.
@JohnSRosamond It's not the size of the compressor that's the factor. The pressure in the tank is. And even that isn't the factor. I'm not squeezing the trigger till my hand is numb I'm using my eyes to see when the nut is settled in snug. I'm only giving it gun till the nut settles. There's a point that- that happens that you can see.
I remember watching this vid months ago and it helped me do my first brake pad change. Came back again just now to reference it, as I'm ready to do them again. Thanks so much! Have you done a video on replacing the brake discs too? I would really appreciate it! I have an 05 impreza
When you spread the brake caliper what precautions do you have to take with the master cylinder? I changed the pads on my Civic and I removed the master cylinder cap to allow for expansion when the brake fluid was pressed. I was told that not removing the cap could damage the master cylinder. Is this the same with all vehicles? You are doing great videos. Thank you for this.
Nice job! Was trying to see if there was a specific call out for grease or glue for the Sub. Mine is squealing during backup only on new pads from the front. I used the CRC spray but will try the glue as I dont thing the spray was thick enough to keep it from floating on the caliper.
That disc brake quiet red stuff says it is for non-shimmed pads. those pads looked shimmed. Is it the right product to use? I thought there was a lube or grease to use instead. Also, that disc brake quiet is supposed to dry before installing the pads. Good tips though, those just seemed to be the opposite of what others Ive watched say.
where did you buy your brake pads from? Are they cermaic or semi-metallic? Good job on the video, I watched 5 other brake pad change videos. Your the only one who mention the to check bolts to see if they move freely and if not lubed them.
@elic123456 It looks too tight, but it's not. I too have seen that many times. The key is to stop when the socket does. I regularly make a habit of pulling over and helping people on the side of the road. I've seen what you describe many times.
great video, I watched this, got pumped cus i had new brake pads to put in, got outside, got my wheel off, tried to take off the brakes, NOTHING, RUSTED to the bone.. I live in new england and that's my main issue with my forester. Everything i try to do myself Mechanical usually doesnt even take off because of all the RUST!! waht are some good tips for rust removal. I need it for my suspensions and brakes, cant take them off
Hey Brian. Great videos.. I've been working on cars for years, including an auto trans rebuild. Did rear disc brakes on a buddy's Isuzu Rodeo. One caliper bolt,(slider thing) on each side had a rubber seal on the end. Created a problem after completion, hydraulically applying the brake due to lube behind the seal. I took it apart and removed the grease.. Works fine now. Has that ever happened to you? Why the seal?.. Thanks. Bill
@newyota1 I've had SO many similar comments it makes me shy to share stuff like this without doing a whole video on it with complete detail. Torque specs aren't magical numbers. They are derived from actual feel and visual process. You can duplicate the process. That's what I'm saying. You can't do it your first day, but with practice you can learn to get it better than with a torque wrench or torque bar. Over 20 years it's a good skill to acquire.
Hi Brian, i have a 2007 Subaru legacy wagon and the parking brake is partially seized, could you please do a video on replacing the cable and properly adjusting the brakes? I've looked online and I haven't found a video on a Subaru.
I have a Subaru Impreza. I had my brake pads changed at the last service. I have noticed a rattle (knocking) when at slow to low speeds. I don't think its the shocks because they don't make a noise when going over harsh bumps. I notice the sound coming from the front of the car, and sticking my head out the window and listening, it sounds like its coming from the wheel area. Do you think it could be the brake pads and that they didn't glue em?
@peelout40 agreed. well before I started working on my cars (I wouldn't even call myself a weekend mechanic, just doing it on the cheap out of necessity)... I learned the star pattern bit from tightening and tuning drum heads. same concept. and I agree about a torque wrench 100%. I damaged a rim on my jetta due to a tech cranking down with his shop gun. the strongest neighbor around was helping me with a 6' length of fence post slipped over the breaker bar and it still took us over an hour.
Thanks for the Video Brian! Could i request a video? I have a clunking coming from the right rear of my 2007 subaru legacy wagon, it only happens after the car has been parked for a bit with the parking break engaged and only after going from reverse to forward. I believe it's the e-brake that is doing this noise and i would like to do a full e-brake servicing since the e-brake lever needs adjusting also (pulls up quite far to apply brakes) Thanks!
Great guide. You do a great job explaining the process. I have some stoptech rotors and hawk pads I'll be putting on soon, I'll definitely use your tips while installing. First Diy I'll be doing on my 06 LGT.
A click type torque wrench is always required on all aluminum wheels I take loose period, steel wheels maybe....aluminum is way to soft for any heavy duty 1/2" impact gun.. Use no click type and you take a gamble. Its like riding your bicycle in the street.......
does anything need to be done with the ABS system before the piston is pushed back in? ... Ilast time I did this was years ago on a car without ABS ... We loosened the cap on the master cylinder before using a C-clamp to push it back in,same thing now a days with a ABS system ? ( scion Tc ). Thanks
@MichaelCosta84 Seems people put a lot of "SHOULDS" all over each other. Some good some not. Bottom line is there is more than one way to do any given thing. There are many different yet correct answers in life. I say listen to your instructor. Give him respect. When you're well learned from him/her then add to it the best information you can find.
I usually open the bleeders when I push the pistons back. That way the old fluid that has been in the caliper for years drains out of the bleeders and does not go back into the system. Then I top off the reservoir or bleed the brakes.
Actually with AL rims the lug nuts will loosen on their own slightly. This is why many people recommend checking the torque after 100 miles or so. Setting 1 on a high end impact gun in good condition is about the torque that most manufacturers spec.
I have to say, I like using a torque wrench on my wheels--and for 7 years, no wheel(s) have come off...my eclipse had a lug over tightened, and it damaged the threads...it took all my weight on a breaker bar just to get the wheel(s) off (thank you shop). I say, whatever you use, not too loose, not too tight. DEPENDING on vehicle: 80 - 110 ft/lbs is what I have lived by. Also, steel or custom alloy wheels plays a part. (ie: ferrari, porche, aftermarket, etc...)
...actually was to do! I never looked back ever since, and continued to do more and more work on the numerous vehicles that I owned, learning more and more about those machines that seemed not to want to divulge their most intimate secrets which, little by little, are being revealed to me, thanks to my sheer Celtic obstinance of not declaring defeat that easily! I have driven hundreds of thousands of miles, and never had a wheel falling off on me yet! I use a good ol' lug nut wrench and...
@Mrjmoyer78 We're just being taught to be dependent instead of independent or interdependent. It makes our boss, government, slave driver seem more crucial than they actually are.
Factory torque specs always worked fine for me.Had tires replaced once and the mech. ran the lugs so tight I busted a lug off when I had to do my brakes shortley after..They were all like that.Also, after a state inspection same thing(too tight) and I checked the wheels he took off and had to take it back and complain and had them loosen for me.I always ask the mech. to use torque wrench to be safe.
I have a 2008 ford focus with drum brakes in the rear when letting of the brakes or slowly pushing on them they make alot of noise. What could i do about that?
My '96 Legacy got flooded on the passenger side of the car and the front caliper started sticking. I gotta take it all apart this weekend and see if I can regrease everything.
I like to clean them off with a little bit of auto trans fluid and a wire brush and then spray with brake parts cleaner and let dry. That leaves the studs and nuts completely clean and dry. Then I just either torque them or estimate and get them to about where they should be using a big 1/2" ratchet.
The rear caliper slide pins on my 06 WRX two pot calipers are frozen. naturally I need to replace the pads and rotors because they are all pretty beat up and worn unevenly. I was wondering if you had any advice on how to remove the slide pins once they are frozen and rusted. I've tried using a drift pin and ball peen hammer but I had no success. Any advice would be great. I don't want to damage the caliper. They are expensive.
@briansmobile1 I have a question. i replaced my breaks on my explorer with drilled and slotted pad and rotors. But now when i apply the breaks i hear a nose that sounds like a cricket lol Do you know what can cause that?
I changed out the front pads and rotors on a friends 07 Outback. I hear a Clunk noise when applying brakes going from reverse to forward, but only once in each direction, then the sound goes away. All bolts tight, proper lube used, shims etc. in place. Any ideas? Could this be from small pads?
i would like to see a complete break bleed, master cylinder, caliper, and abs system, i hear that the is a patern that you need to follow, is that truth?
@newyota1 I used to work for just any body till I did work for a number of used car dealers one summer. They all wanted special pricing and would say repetitively "I'm a wholesaler" over and over till I'd give some kind of discount. They would basically try to reduce the price I quoted AFTER the work was done and they had already agreed to a price. I'm saying maybe the tech did that boot on purpose? Who knows. Used car dealers screw their mechanics, not just clients.
Many shops use the torque wrench and torque sticks because it's way easier to train people to use them than it is to train them otherwise. It's takes a lot of practice and some destruction and parts expense to get the feel if you're doing damage or if you're erring on the side of being dangerously loose. I trust and prefer my methods. Others have often criticized me for this, but I've been doing this now every day, multiple times a day on the same cars for years on end. I like my results.
Great video man! Just as an FYI to anyone else replacing the rotors as well on a Subaru Impreza 2.5i (2007 for me) When removing the remaining caliper bracket, which you don't have to remove for just doing the pads, the rear caliper bracket bolts will likely be seized on. A quick Google search will show the majority of results involve how to fix a snapped caliper bolt! Do yourself a favor and spray the fastener and the mating surfaces with some PB Blaster, and then gently crack it with steadily increasing pressure with a breaker bar, or a piece of metal pipe slipped over your ratchet. Extracting a broken bolt form the back of the caliper doesn't sound like a great way to spend an afternoon!
It's to have a silicone based grease to facilitate lateral caliper movement. Two pads that wear over time and pressure from one side only. You have to have a means for centering and adjusting over time. The slide pins allow for this and the grease allows for free movement. The seal keeps the grease clean. The problem comes when there's crud plus grease or the wrong type of grease.
I really like your restate style. That's a great learning tool. What I do is I tighten until I see the socket slow down and then stop. As soon as it stops or binds I stop immediately. I visualize a graph with a downward sloping line that starts high on the Y axis (socket speed) and where it nears the X axis (Time) it stops as the line is near parallel, but not touching yet. If you continue till absolute stopping occurs, you will inevitably cause damage.
Just finished doing front brakes on my 08 Legacy thanks to your video. I would have taken a few pictures but the job went too quickly! Last week I did lower ball joints, shocks and rotors on my 97 T100 4x4. I suddenly feel empowered. Great videos and advice, thank you.
I torque a bit more than spec, but it isn't damaging the wheel, studs, or lug nuts. I see these cars over an over again for years. No one ever loses a wheel or has broken studs. The fasteners last. So I'm happy with what I'm doing. Many local shops that use torque wrenches and torque sticks have wheels fall off due to mechanical failures, failure to calibrate, and improper practices. I watch the socket slow down and then I let off when I feel and see it's appropriate.
One of the best brake pad videos I've seen.
@MichaelCosta84 I do it from a visual/forces approach. On the ground you have more forces involved. On the assembly line they are tightened while in suspension. I'm OK with it.
@vgbr88 Use special silicone based grease for brakes/clutches. Bearing grease goes to concrete with heat.
correct me on this, I was told when you compress the piston that the bleeder should be cracked open to allow fluid to escape instead of pushing it back through the system because there are tiny orfices that involve the abs and if the fluid is dirty at all it clogs the orfices and causes the abs light to come on and mess with the abs system. have you ever heard this or had it happen ?
The torque on the impact gun used to tighten the lug nuts will depend on the air pressure, and the particular type of impact gun. If you are doing this occasionally in your home garage with a small compressor the air pressure may not be as high that used in this video and you may not have the experience to know if all the variables add up such that the final "tap tap tap" of air ratchet has tightened the bolts well enough. I've had lug nuta tightened at shop come loose and destroy an alloy rim. I had them come back from a shop with brake pulsation because they lug nuts were not tightened uniformly. Now I use a torque wrench at home to double check.
You're welcome. I really appreciate your feedback.
@steevum On 90's Chevy's that was the case. now most cars don't sustain damage at all. As a general rule just go slow and you're OK regardless.
@JohnSRosamond It's not the size of the compressor that's the factor. The pressure in the tank is. And even that isn't the factor. I'm not squeezing the trigger till my hand is numb I'm using my eyes to see when the nut is settled in snug. I'm only giving it gun till the nut settles. There's a point that- that happens that you can see.
@Flaheat Cool. Use some heat to make the pin come out if you need to.
@nuccireyo7 They're pretty tough to beat. They're now owned mostly by Toyota. It seems to show.
this video is 11 years old
and
still…. packed with good information
@backwoods3214 It's glue. Disc brake quiet.
I remember watching this vid months ago and it helped me do my first brake pad change. Came back again just now to reference it, as I'm ready to do them again. Thanks so much!
Have you done a video on replacing the brake discs too? I would really appreciate it! I have an 05 impreza
When you spread the brake caliper what precautions do you have to take with the master cylinder? I changed the pads on my Civic and I removed the master cylinder cap to allow for expansion when the brake fluid was pressed. I was told that not removing the cap could damage the master cylinder. Is this the same with all vehicles?
You are doing great videos. Thank you for this.
Nice job! Was trying to see if there was a specific call out for grease or glue for the Sub. Mine is squealing during backup only on new pads from the front. I used the CRC spray but will try the glue as I dont thing the spray was thick enough to keep it from floating on the caliper.
That disc brake quiet red stuff says it is for non-shimmed pads. those pads looked shimmed. Is it the right product to use? I thought there was a lube or grease to use instead. Also, that disc brake quiet is supposed to dry before installing the pads. Good tips though, those just seemed to be the opposite of what others Ive watched say.
@09victoryrc Nope. Just be sure to not clobber the sensor or wire.
where did you buy your brake pads from? Are they cermaic or semi-metallic? Good job on the video, I watched 5 other brake pad change videos. Your the only one who mention the to check bolts to see if they move freely and if not lubed them.
@rtzapper You're welcome. Thanks for the input.
@elic123456 It looks too tight, but it's not. I too have seen that many times. The key is to stop when the socket does. I regularly make a habit of pulling over and helping people on the side of the road. I've seen what you describe many times.
great video, I watched this, got pumped cus i had new brake pads to put in, got outside, got my wheel off, tried to take off the brakes, NOTHING, RUSTED to the bone.. I live in new england and that's my main issue with my forester. Everything i try to do myself Mechanical usually doesnt even take off because of all the RUST!! waht are some good tips for rust removal. I need it for my suspensions and brakes, cant take them off
Hey Brian. Great videos.. I've been working on cars for years, including an auto trans rebuild. Did rear disc brakes on a buddy's Isuzu Rodeo. One caliper bolt,(slider thing) on each side had a rubber seal on the end. Created a problem after completion, hydraulically applying the brake due to lube behind the seal. I took it apart and removed the grease.. Works fine now. Has that ever happened to you? Why the seal?.. Thanks. Bill
@newyota1 I've had SO many similar comments it makes me shy to share stuff like this without doing a whole video on it with complete detail. Torque specs aren't magical numbers. They are derived from actual feel and visual process. You can duplicate the process. That's what I'm saying. You can't do it your first day, but with practice you can learn to get it better than with a torque wrench or torque bar. Over 20 years it's a good skill to acquire.
For cars that require it, what product do you use to lubricate the ends of the pads that slide on the caliper? Thanks - your videos are great.
Hi Brian, i have a 2007 Subaru legacy wagon and the parking brake is partially seized, could you please do a video on replacing the cable and properly adjusting the brakes? I've looked online and I haven't found a video on a Subaru.
Do you bleed the brake lines?
And if you don't have a torque wrench or air ratchet can you just tighten it down with a socket?
Could be a bad proportioning valve or Master Cylinder.
Hello Brian 99 mantana the front wheel left side brake suddenly while is running can be this to bad pads I put new caliper and es doing the same.
I have a Subaru Impreza. I had my brake pads changed at the last service. I have noticed a rattle (knocking) when at slow to low speeds. I don't think its the shocks because they don't make a noise when going over harsh bumps. I notice the sound coming from the front of the car, and sticking my head out the window and listening, it sounds like its coming from the wheel area.
Do you think it could be the brake pads and that they didn't glue em?
@peelout40 agreed. well before I started working on my cars (I wouldn't even call myself a weekend mechanic, just doing it on the cheap out of necessity)... I learned the star pattern bit from tightening and tuning drum heads. same concept. and I agree about a torque wrench 100%. I damaged a rim on my jetta due to a tech cranking down with his shop gun. the strongest neighbor around was helping me with a 6' length of fence post slipped over the breaker bar and it still took us over an hour.
@giroguy123456789 That sounds like it could be a control arm bushing. I DO have a video on that in the works. I should be able to get that up today.
Thanks. Is there a difference when doing brake pads for a 2 wd 02 Chevy Tracker?
The rust rim on the drum outer edge and excessive brake dust.
Thanks for the Video Brian! Could i request a video? I have a clunking coming from the right rear of my 2007 subaru legacy wagon, it only happens after the car has been parked for a bit with the parking break engaged and only after going from reverse to forward. I believe it's the e-brake that is doing this noise and i would like to do a full e-brake servicing since the e-brake lever needs adjusting also (pulls up quite far to apply brakes)
Thanks!
wheel bearing grease or red permatex gasket maker for the back of the brakes? and do drum brakes ever run out?
Great guide. You do a great job explaining the process. I have some stoptech rotors and hawk pads I'll be putting on soon, I'll definitely use your tips while installing. First Diy I'll be doing on my 06 LGT.
Have you found that you need to change the brake pad shims with each brake job? '09 Legacy owner here.
A click type torque wrench is always required on all aluminum wheels I take loose period, steel wheels maybe....aluminum is way to soft for any heavy duty 1/2" impact gun.. Use no click type and you take a gamble. Its like riding your bicycle in the street.......
does anything need to be done with the ABS system before the piston is pushed back in? ... Ilast time I did this was years ago on a car without ABS ... We loosened the cap on the master cylinder before using a C-clamp to push it back in,same thing now a days with a ABS system ? ( scion Tc ). Thanks
Super helpful dude - thanks mate. I ordered up the pads and am going to steam in based on this. If I die it's on you LOL!
Thanks for the vid! Finished up changing the brakes on my Impreza today.
So you don't have to clamp/engage the brake before taking all the calipers and pads off?
Have u warped alot of rotors & done lots of brake repair, over torqued wheels = #1 cause of warped rotors or premature brake failure
@MichaelCosta84 Seems people put a lot of "SHOULDS" all over each other. Some good some not. Bottom line is there is more than one way to do any given thing. There are many different yet correct answers in life. I say listen to your instructor. Give him respect. When you're well learned from him/her then add to it the best information you can find.
@84W150 Yep.
dang u got a lot of knowledge under your belt kudo's!!!!!!
I usually open the bleeders when I push the pistons back. That way the old fluid that has been in the caliper for years drains out of the bleeders and does not go back into the system. Then I top off the reservoir or bleed the brakes.
Thanks for posting this! Great job. I'm on my way out the door to do my brakes!
@UBBERTANKER Could be.
Actually with AL rims the lug nuts will loosen on their own slightly. This is why many people recommend checking the torque after 100 miles or so. Setting 1 on a high end impact gun in good condition is about the torque that most manufacturers spec.
I think my impreza 08 non turbo has only pads on front wheels. is that correct?
I have to say, I like using a torque wrench on my wheels--and for 7 years, no wheel(s) have come off...my eclipse had a lug over tightened, and it damaged the threads...it took all my weight on a breaker bar just to get the wheel(s) off (thank you shop). I say, whatever you use, not too loose, not too tight. DEPENDING on vehicle: 80 - 110 ft/lbs is what I have lived by. Also, steel or custom alloy wheels plays a part. (ie: ferrari, porche, aftermarket, etc...)
could u make a vidoe on heating up the slide pins
...actually was to do! I never looked back ever since, and continued to do more and more work on the numerous vehicles that I owned, learning more and more about those machines that seemed not to want to divulge their most intimate secrets which, little by little, are being revealed to me, thanks to my sheer Celtic obstinance of not declaring defeat that easily! I have driven hundreds of thousands of miles, and never had a wheel falling off on me yet! I use a good ol' lug nut wrench and...
@Mrjmoyer78 We're just being taught to be dependent instead of independent or interdependent. It makes our boss, government, slave driver seem more crucial than they actually are.
Factory torque specs always worked fine for me.Had tires replaced once and the mech. ran the lugs so tight I busted a lug off when I had to do my brakes shortley after..They were all like that.Also, after a state inspection same thing(too tight) and I checked the wheels he took off and had to take it back and complain and had them loosen for me.I always ask the mech. to use torque wrench to be safe.
thank for your video.I leraned a lot.could you post a video to how to replace the ball joints for subaru legacy 2008,thanks brian
Thanks mate. Helped me with a little dilemma I was having. Cheers.
Most have it on the front brakes (more effective) Some new ones are on the rear.
a trick : watch series at InstaFlixxer. I've been using it for watching loads of movies recently.
@Uriah Eric Definitely, I've been watching on instaflixxer for years myself :)
@Uriah Eric Yea, been using instaflixxer for months myself =)
@Uriah Eric Yea, have been using InstaFlixxer for months myself :D
Great video. I have a 2004 impreza ts non turbo...I'm doing my rear's tomorrow morning. Thanks for the walk through.
Good video, helped me change my subaru legacy 99 rear break pads!
@marty1901 You're welcome!
Thank you.
I have had this problem on my Subaru, check between the treads on your tires for gravel/small rocks.
I have a 2008 ford focus with drum brakes in the rear when letting of the brakes or slowly pushing on them they make alot of noise. What could i do about that?
@09victoryrc You're welcome!~
My '96 Legacy got flooded on the passenger side of the car and the front caliper started sticking. I gotta take it all apart this weekend and see if I can regrease everything.
@Frey5150 YES!!! I love that! Way to go!
I like to clean them off with a little bit of auto trans fluid and a wire brush and then spray with brake parts cleaner and let dry. That leaves the studs and nuts completely clean and dry. Then I just either torque them or estimate and get them to about where they should be using a big 1/2" ratchet.
nice job! How are you at CV boots on 2006 honda truck?
@bikeordie666 Sure. Give me a week of so and I'll do it.
right free them slides. what is big bottle of red lube?
@labidus74 You're welcome.
Could you list the tools required please?
The rear caliper slide pins on my 06 WRX two pot calipers are frozen. naturally I need to replace the pads and rotors because they are all pretty beat up and worn unevenly. I was wondering if you had any advice on how to remove the slide pins once they are frozen and rusted. I've tried using a drift pin and ball peen hammer but I had no success. Any advice would be great. I don't want to damage the caliper. They are expensive.
Also I have a set of new pins for each side once I get them out, so if I have to drill them i will, but I would rather not if there is another way.
@briansmobile1 I have a question. i replaced my breaks on my explorer with drilled and slotted pad and rotors. But now when i apply the breaks i hear a nose that sounds like a cricket lol Do you know what can cause that?
This was exactly the video I needed. Thanks!!!
I changed out the front pads and rotors on a friends 07 Outback. I hear a Clunk noise when applying brakes going from reverse to forward, but only once in each direction, then the sound goes away. All bolts tight, proper lube used, shims etc. in place. Any ideas? Could this be from small pads?
+Michael Vaughn You might check the control arm bushings. If they are worn there may be movement when you apply the brakes.
These are the rear brakes, right?
Very well done. Great tips, very well explained. All around, great job.
Awesome vid! I will be doing tomorrow on my girlfriend's Baja!
@CURBECK Thanks.
Awesome video, Doing my 06' Legacy today!!
You are a great teacher!
i would like to see a complete break bleed, master cylinder, caliper, and abs system, i hear that the is a patern that you need to follow, is that truth?
thanks for the clear instructions and sound fundamentals
Another awsome vid!! i gotta do this to my wrx soon!! upgrading to brembos though lol
@peelout40 for sure.
did you find out what was it? i have the same situation....
Yes, but they're "drum in hat" so the process is the same for the front too.
you bet buddy!
@newyota1 I used to work for just any body till I did work for a number of used car dealers one summer. They all wanted special pricing and would say repetitively "I'm a wholesaler" over and over till I'd give some kind of discount. They would basically try to reduce the price I quoted AFTER the work was done and they had already agreed to a price. I'm saying maybe the tech did that boot on purpose? Who knows. Used car dealers screw their mechanics, not just clients.
Is that the same car that Pablo fixed with a rattle can?
It is.