80k subscribers!! 🎉 Thank you so much to our long term subs and the new ones who have recently joined, it is only possible thanks to you! If you enjoy our videos and want to support the build you can do so by : Buying us a... hammer 😂 (one-off support) www.buymeacoffee.com/theoutfit or Joining us on Patreon 🥳 www.patreon.com/theoutfit Or Subscribing for free 🙏 Thank you so much for watching! See you next week :) Chris, Ange & Oaks
To remove the ball joints "loosen the nut but don't remove it completely then with a heavy metal hammer smack the component where the ball joint thread has been passed through" whilst pushing the tie rod shaft up with your hand, it will just pop up. also you can whack pretty hard you wont break it. If you look at it you should see slight dents on it already from previous ball joint replacements.
Or us a ball joint splitter. Preferably the screw type, not the forked one, they burst the rubber dust covers. All right if you're replacing the ball joint, but if your aren't.
So glad your channel came up in my youtube algorithm. I did my conscription as a mechanic on these vehicles, and seeing this brings back a lot of memories. In service these vehicles would be serviced after each and every exercise, so there should be minimal wear. On the other hand, they were driven by a bunch of 19 year olds who weren't paying the fuel themselves. Just a word of caution. The original brake shoes did contain asbestos, and depending on how old these are they might do too. The dust on the drum and carrier plate might as well. I'd wear a respirator when doing work on old parts like these. You have already found biltema, another tip is Jula, which is also at svågertorp shopping area, they quite a bit of tools, both name brand and cheaper stuff.
Packing stuff with grease seems very likely when it comes to the swedish military haha. When I was a conscript a couple of years ago we used to service all the vehicles, and some of the points on the checklist were always to grease everything, cover everything rusty in oil, and wash the vehicles at least once a year to ridiculously clean standards. If there is one thing they were good at there, it was cleaning and rust protecting stuff. Service is usually taken very seriously, so I guess most mechanical things can be assumed to be in pretty good shape unless it was damaged after the vehicle was retired from the military.
Word of advice that i learnt during my automotive apprenticeship, take an old bit of cardboard and poke some small holes in it and then when you remove a bolt put it in the cardboard and write what it's for. It actually creates a bit of a timeline so when you reassemble you can work your way back along the cardboard opposite to when you put the bolts/clips in
When installing bearing rings, I use the old one as a perfect mallet extentioner, but I reduce the outer diameter slightly by holding it loosely running on a belt sander before cleaning it and then using it to press the new bearing ring into place. As it is slightly smaller after grinding, it won't get stuck in the hole, but still doing an perfect press on the new.
I just became a subscriber to your channel here on youtube and I really like your trial and error. Learning by doing! 👍😉Appreciate your commitment and your positive mood, very welcome to your stay here in Sweden. Greetings Rolf.
when you're taking a tie rod end off loosen the nut and leave it on to protect the threads. then hit the end of the knuckle to break the taper if that doesn't loosen it hold a second hammer on one side and hit the other.
Keep it up bloke love to see you on the tools , I’ve built a few patrols on my driveway now , unassisted just like you , worth the battle when you do it on your own , achievement is king for the outcome , love the content , keep up guys , and of course congrats on your new family 👍🏻
Apply pressure using your jack to the under side of the ball joint shaft (use nut so as not to damage thread but not done up tight). Smack the side of the hub where the ball joint is with a lump hammer. The ball joint simply pops out.
Quite an undertaking! Yet you both seem to master it with determination, courage and wit. Good fortune in Sweden - looking forward to see that beast crawling!
I’m not long into an adult apprenticeship and fight things like those ball joints all the time. I’m lucky though that I have a boss comes over and one strike with the right tool and technique and it’s apart. You are doing really well running solo on unfamiliar gear and working so hard.
No worries, I like the way you recognise errors, CV joint for example, and don't get wildly frustrated, don't try to follow the error and backtrack and fix properly. That's what will give you complete peace of mind when you're miles from anywhere on a steep mountain track etc. Keep on keeping on
Credit to you Chris for tackling such a big project .... But just imagine the elation when finished ... Doing all the work yourself also gives u more confidence if things go wrong on the road ...
👍Once Again, Welcome to scandinavia. 🇩🇰🇸🇪🇳🇴 I just subscribed ..Cause now you actually also begins to look Scandinavian (The new (Ikea) "Light mud brown / orange" warm hat). - You ( all three) do look great .... 🍓👊♥
Another friendly tip,,, when you have to beat on a bolt to get it out, thread the nut back on it level with the bolt end, that way you can beat the shit out of it and not damage the threads of your bolt.
Well done team. Starting watching during the Jeep days. Loving the new build series. What an adventure. All the best to finding your feet in a new country. Looking forward to seeing how you transform this beast into another awesome offgrid adventure wagon! Kia Kaha from NZ Joel, Angi & Micah (simular age to Oak)
Looking good Chris. Biltema is great. If only they had something similar in Oz! You should also check out the flea markets (loppmarknad in Swedish). Often a great option to find cheap tools and workshop furniture, especially the markets out of town. There are several where I live in Denmark that are a gold mine for bits / bobs.
I drove the TGB 13 during my military service in 1987. I remember we could drive quite comfortably and fast off-road thanks to the three axles. TGB 11 was much bumpier. As a result, the leaders at the military exercises preferred to hitchhike with the TGB13, which gave our group some advantages and grateful breaks when we had week-long exercises in the field :) I also remember that you can start TGB.s by sticking your name tag (steel ) between a couple of the fuses.. Which meant that the TGB.n was not always in the same place as you put it..
Rostlösing=Rust Solution, so you're on the right track. WD40 is available in Sweden too, just not at Biltema since they only carry their own in house brand. Another store that carries this stuff at pretty good prices is Jula, they have a lot of the more recognisable brands (like Bacho tools, WD40 etc). 🙂
Honestly I think Bahco has become below average quality tools since they moved all production from Sweden. Only saw blades and some related things are made in Sweden now. The Biltema "premium" line with 10 years warranty is much better value.
@@erik.... I just mentioned bacho as an example since i know he's used their tools before. But yes, i agree that biltemas more premium line of tools are generally pretty good.
Great update on your hard work, thank you for showing the headache and hardness you are experiencing, really appreciate the reality instead of so many others, just showing the start and then by “TH-cam magic” it’s all done without any problems. By the way, what’s up with the ☹️ Amazon box on the table behind you guys in the end?
Always keeping it real! Showing mistakes is important, we always learn from them :) thank you so much for watching and taking the time to comment! Ahah good spotting, no special reason for the sad face 😅
You had me on the edge of my seat until you used the right tools or machines for the job. Part of the build is the self-satisfaction of a job well done! :¬) Webhead USA
A tip with those Britpart brake shoes from a Landrover fan. On the Landrover you have to chamfer the top of the leading brake shoe or it will grab on the drum when you reverse! Not sure this will be the same on the Volvo set up but it’s easy to do with some sandpaper. Look forward to seeing this truck progress
Congrats on the 80K mate. I'm loving this new long vid format and all the work you're putting in to show us the process of the rebuild. You're going to hit 100k in no time with this series. Cheers.
Amazing work guys! so good to see you're doing a proper job on it!! 1 piece of advice, get a bigger hammer, ideally 4 lb copper. it will make your life 1000 times easier
To separate tapered connections like tie rod ends, undo the nuts but do not remove. Leave the nut on the last lot of the threads, gives you a greater surface are for you to hit with a hammer or apply force to the tie rod end. Use the jack to apply pressure to the tie rod bolt with 2 hammers, simultaneously strike the cast bit of the hub where the tapered tie rod end is lodged.
Great work. Having worked on Unimogs I can empathise with your tasks. One thing I would suggest is to service the leaf springs. Relatively easy task of removing, stripping, cleaning, inspecting, lubricating and rebuilding. They do look a bit crusty!!
I have seen pros use a wedge-like chisel to drive apart Ball Joints, BTW I love my Boat Yard waterproof Boat trailer grease. It comes in Silicon Gun style cartridges for a dedicated grease Gun. Less mess.
So fun seeing people visiting close where I live. You should go to both Malmö and Lund for sight seeing honestly both are really pretty cities. Lund especially has very old houses and cobblestone streets that I am sure you would love
WOW, contact me when you and your family are ready for an adventure in Sweden. I’m glade to host you from where you are now and 1000km north. If you journey is to see all Sweden. Really nice to find your channel. All love and good luck!
Very nice to see the project going forward. I was reacting when you used an ordinary socket for the machine. Back in the days I did some mecanic work I would always use the special, more powerful socket for hammering machines (the use to be dark in colour). Biltema is great! They have much and to affordable prices, but sometimes you have to look up for the quality. But for amateurs there is mostly no problem.
Great . I personally like the tgb 11 but I can see its just to small for you. I did my conscription in 79 as a tank plutoon commander and we got drivers licence for both the tgb 11 and 13. Great mud and retain capabilities..... Keep up the good work it will pay of in the end.
I spent a lot of time in a tgb 13 during my national service. Loud as heck but with earpro on you managed to sleep in them without problem during a long march. A bit cramped in the back when 5 blokes in full gear sit there but you manage...
A tip for Oakley to check out. In Sweden there is a thing called ”Öppen förskola” (translated into ”open preschool” - but sometimes called ”open playgroups” by english expats in SE). They are typically open a few hours daily and are intended to be a place for toddlers (0-3yrs ish) and their parents (usually on parental leave) to socialise and play. Part of the time might be organised with singing and such and part is just hanging out. These are open for all (free of charge), and is “drop in” during opening hours
For example - these are the ones in Malmö: malmo.se/download/18.70f4a4718bb305e0b4f1f88/1700822201878/informationsblad%20med%20karta%20öppna%20förskolor-ua.pdf
And while on the topic of preschools - they are called ”dagis” in Sweden - which is slang for daycare (SE for day is dag)… an older man might be called ”gubbe” - so obviously Biltema is called ”Gubbdagis”.
@@TheOutFitI tried pinning a map yesterday - but might be youtube killed the hyperlink. Google ”oppen forskola malmo”. The first hit would land you in the correct place - and down the bottom of that page you’ll find a blue box with a linked map with contact info attached ”Informationsblad med karta”. Good luck!
There is a very nice library within walking distance of your workshop. And right next to the library there is a bathhous with superfriendly kids corner. Love your work, I’m a home mechanic myself and do all kind of work on my cars, motorcycles, trailers and horsetrailers. Keep up the good work 💪🏻
My brother from another mother; just check that drum brake. They used to be made with asbestos. That’s an old vehicle. It may not be and your mate there is probably more specialists. But just check. Also the tight ones heat up with blow torch
Hey Chris mate, I think I see you getting under the vehicle, relying solely on the trolley jack. If this is the case I recommend you place your wheels flat under the body somewhere, so that if your jack fails, the space these afford you, if it should all fall, might just save your life. If changing a flat tyre, I will always leave the flat tyre and rim under the vehicle for the chassis or body to land on if the jack fails or topples. Cheers.
On some of those stubborn bolts you need to use a good old fire wrench! lol. (blow torch to heat it) then it should come right out with a little smack of the hammer.
@@TheOutFit that would make it a little bit harder but even just heating the housing would help. Also if you get stuck on things like ball joints, search TH-cam as there's tutorials for all these types of frustrating jobs.
Going to give some kudos here. Never really liked a lot of your old stuff. It got away from the trucks. Right back in now to see you guys doing the work. That’s what we all want to see. People who enjoy the travel stuff have discovery. Most of us like watching you guys build stuff, drive it, break it, get it unstuck and fix it again.
To remove the bearing cups, look from the inner side of the hub assembly. You should be able to see about 1 to 2 mm of the back of the inner part of the bearing cup. Using a brass rod or a rod of metal softer than the bearing cup and using the rod like a punch on the visible edge of bearing cup, using a solid hammer on the rod, punch the bearing cup working your way around the bearing cup. I suggest moving around the bearing cap every 45 to 90 deg, tapping the bearing cap out. Be mindful not to strike the surface where the bearing was seated or the inside surface the bearing cup will be sliding on. It is harder to replace the cup. My practice was to grind the outside circumference of the bearing, reducing the outside diameter of the bearing cup, so that the cup Wil freely slide in and out of the hub. Cool the bearing cup in a freezer and then put the cup in place and working around the then edger of cup, tap into place so it is going square. Once it is started use your old modified bearing and continue tapping the cup into place and is soundly set in place. You will hear a definite change in the sound has you strike the old cup.
Chris, Ange is right about taking a day off. Not only to rest your body from all the hard work 😓 but to hang out with Oakley and her. She has been working hard too getting your new home setup and taking care of “little man “🧍♂️ . Enjoy 😉 Lou
tip to be comfier working on concrete, use some of the cardboard boxes, break them down and it will insulate and pad you a bit, or get some of the cheap kids foam tile playmats. i use the ones that are about half a metre a side. ii keep one in my car. handy for when i'm working on it and keeps me dry when i have to kneel on wet ground.
Induction machine makes life a lot easier on them rusted bolts good investment , you can get some ball joints with grease nipple's might be worth looking into
Following your rebuild. Very Nice work. I have a Pinzgauer and a Land-Rover FC101 At one moment (time 49:00 min) you mentioned you cleaned/polished the inside of the brake drums. Perhaps it was not literally polished. I interpreted you wrong. I was taught than when fitting new brake shoes, to check the inside diameter of the drum-brake to ensure they are with in spec and you have enough material. I believe yours will certainly be good. Then take the drums to a brake shop or engineering works to have the inside of the skimmed on the lathe. That ensure "roundness" and a proper surface for the new brake pads to bed in. Not trying to critique. Just think polishing a brake surface is not the best (if I understood it correctly) Perhaps just double check on that as it is a critical safety thing for you and family. Keep up the build. It's very exciting.
Alot of hard work for both of you, It’s going well ☺️👍 just a bit curious, will you be able to stand inside the Volvo? See you on your next episode 🤩💛💛💛
Hi again Chris When you are using ring n open ended spanner. If you use ring end on nuts / bolts attach another large ring spanner inverted to the open end too get greater leverage on it wrks well. Ange n Oakley he is growing so quickly 😀
Hi Chris. See if you can get a rolling bench. With the amount of work you're doing, and what is still to come, it will be far more comfortable and faster for you.
Welcome to Sweden! I recently found your channel and will definitely follow the build. If you need help with 3d printing/scanning I can probably help you! I've been doing that for many years. Anything like brackets, custom tools, even the Volvo badge on your truck. I'm in southern Sweden 🙂
As a Marine Corps and commercial truck mechanic, as much as I like your channel, this is super frustrating to watch you working on your truck. I do admire your determination. Keep learning and keep up the good work.
Hi Chris, with the spring's for brake shoes i use a large sidecutter pliers Great To see what the process is looks like a nightmare lolooo Keep up the great work cheers
Just grind the old bearing ring so it fits loose in it's hole and use it as a tool to drive the new bearing ring home. Alternate light blows from side to side so the new bearing ring goes in straight.
I very much want one of these but then the pickupbed version. Have plans drawn up for the camper buid, all I need is some extra money. Lets hope I win the lottery or something
@TheOutFit a friend from work also has a TGB 13🙂 he's told me that if you want to dieselswap them you can take the final drive gearing from the TGB 11. The gear ratio is a little bit higher on those so you get the revs down when cruising at highway speeds. Too bad you already have done the axels😅😅
![Fuso Canter 4x4 Fridge Box Campervan - "Saving the Chassis" [S2:EP3]](/img/n.gif)
80k subscribers!! 🎉
Thank you so much to our long term subs and the new ones who have recently joined, it is only possible thanks to you!
If you enjoy our videos and want to support the build you can do so by :
Buying us a... hammer 😂 (one-off support) www.buymeacoffee.com/theoutfit
or
Joining us on Patreon 🥳 www.patreon.com/theoutfit
Or
Subscribing for free 🙏
Thank you so much for watching!
See you next week :)
Chris, Ange & Oaks
By the time you are finished the build, you will have the most smick C304 on the planet.
To remove the ball joints "loosen the nut but don't remove it completely then with a heavy metal hammer smack the component where the ball joint thread has been passed through" whilst pushing the tie rod shaft up with your hand, it will just pop up. also you can whack pretty hard you wont break it. If you look at it you should see slight dents on it already from previous ball joint replacements.
Came to say the same thing 😊 You don't hit the ball joint itself, you hit the tapered hole it's in to break/shock the taper lock free.
Exactly what I wanted to say too.
Well you are kinda right... my experiences are different🤷♂️ this is relevant to car stuff.... not heavy vehicles from another country...
Or us a ball joint splitter. Preferably the screw type, not the forked one, they burst the rubber dust covers. All right if you're replacing the ball joint, but if your aren't.
Give it a good whack 😉
Proud owners of a Volvo and a Saab as well as daily visits to IKEA. Can’t get more Swedish than that. 😊
And Biltema. 😊
We have a volvo 360, saab 900, hasselblad 500cm , wife has a husqvarna 960 sewing machine.
We are in deep!!
I dont like going to ikea.
So glad your channel came up in my youtube algorithm. I did my conscription as a mechanic on these vehicles, and seeing this brings back a lot of memories. In service these vehicles would be serviced after each and every exercise, so there should be minimal wear. On the other hand, they were driven by a bunch of 19 year olds who weren't paying the fuel themselves.
Just a word of caution. The original brake shoes did contain asbestos, and depending on how old these are they might do too. The dust on the drum and carrier plate might as well. I'd wear a respirator when doing work on old parts like these.
You have already found biltema, another tip is Jula, which is also at svågertorp shopping area, they quite a bit of tools, both name brand and cheaper stuff.
Packing stuff with grease seems very likely when it comes to the swedish military haha. When I was a conscript a couple of years ago we used to service all the vehicles, and some of the points on the checklist were always to grease everything, cover everything rusty in oil, and wash the vehicles at least once a year to ridiculously clean standards. If there is one thing they were good at there, it was cleaning and rust protecting stuff. Service is usually taken very seriously, so I guess most mechanical things can be assumed to be in pretty good shape unless it was damaged after the vehicle was retired from the military.
Word of advice that i learnt during my automotive apprenticeship, take an old bit of cardboard and poke some small holes in it and then when you remove a bolt put it in the cardboard and write what it's for. It actually creates a bit of a timeline so when you reassemble you can work your way back along the cardboard opposite to when you put the bolts/clips in
Or better yet, just put em in plastic bags or containers with handwritten notes on em. The cardboard tends to break.
Well done to both of you on the renovation. Difficult when you have a little one to care for as well, but you guys are stars!! Really looking so good!
When installing bearing rings, I use the old one as a perfect mallet extentioner, but I reduce the outer diameter slightly by holding it loosely running on a belt sander before cleaning it and then using it to press the new bearing ring into place. As it is slightly smaller after grinding, it won't get stuck in the hole, but still doing an perfect press on the new.
This!
Great work ethic Chris, don’t beat yourself up too much for small mistakes people train for years to do this kind of work your doing great👍
I just became a subscriber to your channel here on youtube and I really like your trial and error. Learning by doing! 👍😉Appreciate your commitment and your positive mood, very welcome to your stay here in Sweden. Greetings Rolf.
Thank you for subscribing, it helps a lot!
Portal Axels, NICEEEEE
when you're taking a tie rod end off loosen the nut and leave it on to protect the threads. then hit the end of the knuckle to break the taper if that doesn't loosen it hold a second hammer on one side and hit the other.
Brilliant work guys 👌👌
Keep it up bloke love to see you on the tools , I’ve built a few patrols on my driveway now , unassisted just like you , worth the battle when you do it on your own , achievement is king for the outcome , love the content , keep up guys , and of course congrats on your new family 👍🏻
❤ your progress 🥰
Apply pressure using your jack to the under side of the ball joint shaft (use nut so as not to damage thread but not done up tight). Smack the side of the hub where the ball joint is with a lump hammer. The ball joint simply pops out.
Gee you guys have come along way in a such a short time from cruising around Australia in a jeep , is bloody amazing 😊
Biltema got a tool for drum brake springs. Artnr: 72-028
Great progress! Happy to see you've gotten a car and camper, excited for next weeks video
Quite an undertaking! Yet you both seem to master it with determination, courage and wit. Good fortune in Sweden - looking forward to see that beast crawling!
Another wonderful video guys.
I’m not long into an adult apprenticeship and fight things like those ball joints all the time. I’m lucky though that I have a boss comes over and one strike with the right tool and technique and it’s apart. You are doing really well running solo on unfamiliar gear and working so hard.
Best of luck to you, you've done it once, you can do it again.
Cheers
Ian
Thanks Ian for the support!
No worries, I like the way you recognise errors, CV joint for example, and don't get wildly frustrated, don't try to follow the error and backtrack and fix properly. That's what will give you complete peace of mind when you're miles from anywhere on a steep mountain track etc.
Keep on keeping on
Credit to you Chris for tackling such a big project .... But just imagine the elation when finished ... Doing all the work yourself also gives u more confidence if things go wrong on the road ...
👍Once Again, Welcome to scandinavia. 🇩🇰🇸🇪🇳🇴 I just subscribed ..Cause now you actually also begins to look Scandinavian (The new (Ikea) "Light mud brown / orange" warm hat). - You ( all three) do look great .... 🍓👊♥
When i lived in Sweden 20 years ago most of the staff at Biltema would speak enough English with me, and were super helpful. Dont be afraid to ask.
Another friendly tip,,, when you have to beat on a bolt to get it out, thread the nut back on it level with the bolt end, that way you can beat the shit out of it and not damage the threads of your bolt.
It’s all practice for when your on your world tours, undoubtedly there will be some mechanical issues 😂😂😂 keep it up 👍
Well done team. Starting watching during the Jeep days. Loving the new build series.
What an adventure.
All the best to finding your feet in a new country.
Looking forward to seeing how you transform this beast into another awesome offgrid adventure wagon!
Kia Kaha from NZ
Joel, Angi & Micah (simular age to Oak)
Thank you so much for taking the time to comment and watching all the way from NZ :)
Your kid is going to have some awesome video’s to check out in time
Fantastic effort in good weather let alone the freezing cold, wish we had that combo store here, would save so much hassle
Biltema AKA the blue tempel ....... i often go there for Andagt
Great job, all of you!
Great vlog! You should have a workbench instead of crawling all over the floor. Love your work!
Looking good Chris. Biltema is great. If only they had something similar in Oz! You should also check out the flea markets (loppmarknad in Swedish). Often a great option to find cheap tools and workshop furniture, especially the markets out of town. There are several where I live in Denmark that are a gold mine for bits / bobs.
Good tip thanks Rhys!
I drove the TGB 13 during my military service in 1987.
I remember we could drive quite comfortably and fast off-road thanks to the three axles. TGB 11 was much bumpier. As a result, the leaders at the military exercises preferred to hitchhike with the TGB13, which gave our group some advantages and grateful breaks when we had week-long exercises in the field :)
I also remember that you can start TGB.s by sticking your name tag (steel ) between a couple of the fuses.. Which meant that the TGB.n was not always in the same place as you put it..
Rostlösing=Rust Solution, so you're on the right track. WD40 is available in Sweden too, just not at Biltema since they only carry their own in house brand. Another store that carries this stuff at pretty good prices is Jula, they have a lot of the more recognisable brands (like Bacho tools, WD40 etc). 🙂
Honestly I think Bahco has become below average quality tools since they moved all production from Sweden. Only saw blades and some related things are made in Sweden now. The Biltema "premium" line with 10 years warranty is much better value.
@@erik.... I just mentioned bacho as an example since i know he's used their tools before. But yes, i agree that biltemas more premium line of tools are generally pretty good.
Great update on your hard work, thank you for showing the headache and hardness you are experiencing, really appreciate the reality instead of so many others, just showing the start and then by “TH-cam magic” it’s all done without any problems.
By the way, what’s up with the ☹️ Amazon box on the table behind you guys in the end?
Always keeping it real! Showing mistakes is important, we always learn from them :) thank you so much for watching and taking the time to comment! Ahah good spotting, no special reason for the sad face 😅
Great work. Huge undertaking tackling all that so far from home and raising a baby too at the same time!
Loving the build, reminds of why I first subscribed, when you were building Bowser. 🙌
Great progress !! Interesting to watch - improvise as you go process working well. Go well and stay warm.
You had me on the edge of my seat until you used the right tools or machines for the job. Part of the build is the self-satisfaction of a job well done! :¬) Webhead USA
Great video, thanks and very informative, please keep up the good work.
A tip with those Britpart brake shoes from a Landrover fan. On the Landrover you have to chamfer the top of the leading brake shoe or it will grab on the drum when you reverse! Not sure this will be the same on the Volvo set up but it’s easy to do with some sandpaper. Look forward to seeing this truck progress
Congrats on the 80K mate. I'm loving this new long vid format and all the work you're putting in to show us the process of the rebuild. You're going to hit 100k in no time with this series. Cheers.
Thank you for taking the time to comment, it is really motivating and encouraging!
You guys are such a great team together with such a ‘can do’ approach to everything, am so impressed! Can’t wait to see how this all turns out.
I dont know anything about working on vehicles, but somehow this is extremely interesting to watch.
That's an awesome compliment! We are glad you liked the episode :)
Such an amazing work ✊
Fantastic 👏👏👏
Volvo + SAAB + IKEA + Biltema 🙌
There’s a lot going on 😁
Happy eastern 🐣 / Glad påsk 🐣
I like this very much, great entertainment and Chris........ you'll get it done my man!!
Amazing work guys! so good to see you're doing a proper job on it!! 1 piece of advice, get a bigger hammer, ideally 4 lb copper. it will make your life 1000 times easier
How about get one for the guy 😊
@@Sasha-u5e1l haha waddaya think I'm made of hammers or something!
To separate tapered connections like tie rod ends, undo the nuts but do not remove. Leave the nut on the last lot of the threads, gives you a greater surface are for you to hit with a hammer or apply force to the tie rod end.
Use the jack to apply pressure to the tie rod bolt with 2 hammers, simultaneously strike the cast bit of the hub where the tapered tie rod end is lodged.
Also hammering softly all around where the tie rod's stuck to create a frequency loses it quit good.
Don’t be hard on yourself about mistakes. We have all been there
Excelent tools 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
When you were strugling with the seals I was saying "why dont you use the nice press you got" Then you went and did it ! 😃
Great work. Having worked on Unimogs I can empathise with your tasks. One thing I would suggest is to service the leaf springs. Relatively easy task of removing, stripping, cleaning, inspecting, lubricating and rebuilding. They do look a bit crusty!!
They are crusty indeed and have sagged quite a bit too! We will be replacing them :) thanks for watching!
I have seen pros use a wedge-like chisel to drive apart Ball Joints, BTW I love my Boat Yard waterproof Boat trailer grease. It comes in Silicon Gun style cartridges for a dedicated grease Gun. Less mess.
So fun seeing people visiting close where I live. You should go to both Malmö and Lund for sight seeing honestly both are really pretty cities. Lund especially has very old houses and cobblestone streets that I am sure you would love
Good to know thank you, we'll add Lund to the list :) we might go to Kalmar or Gothenburg soon too for a weekend!
WOW, contact me when you and your family are ready for an adventure in Sweden. I’m glade to host you from where you are now and 1000km north. If you journey is to see all Sweden. Really nice to find your channel. All love and good luck!
Thank you for watching :) we look forward to exploring Sweden!
Very nice to see the project going forward. I was reacting when you used an ordinary socket for the machine. Back in the days I did some mecanic work I would always use the special, more powerful socket for hammering machines (the use to be dark in colour).
Biltema is great! They have much and to affordable prices, but sometimes you have to look up for the quality. But for amateurs there is mostly no problem.
Great . I personally like the tgb 11 but I can see its just to small for you.
I did my conscription in 79 as a tank plutoon commander and we got drivers licence for both the tgb 11 and 13. Great mud and retain capabilities.....
Keep up the good work it will pay of in the end.
great job team! please be safe Chris. the truck sitting on those jacks looks hectic. i am not a mechanic so i don’t know haha
I spent a lot of time in a tgb 13 during my national service. Loud as heck but with earpro on you managed to sleep in them without problem during a long march. A bit cramped in the back when 5 blokes in full gear sit there but you manage...
Biltema is my favourite Swedish shop!!
Very impressive, lots of patience.
A tip for Oakley to check out. In Sweden there is a thing called ”Öppen förskola” (translated into ”open preschool” - but sometimes called ”open playgroups” by english expats in SE).
They are typically open a few hours daily and are intended to be a place for toddlers (0-3yrs ish) and their parents (usually on parental leave) to socialise and play. Part of the time might be organised with singing and such and part is just hanging out.
These are open for all (free of charge), and is “drop in” during opening hours
For example - these are the ones in Malmö: malmo.se/download/18.70f4a4718bb305e0b4f1f88/1700822201878/informationsblad%20med%20karta%20öppna%20förskolor-ua.pdf
And while on the topic of preschools - they are called ”dagis” in Sweden - which is slang for daycare (SE for day is dag)… an older man might be called ”gubbe” - so obviously Biltema is called ”Gubbdagis”.
Thank you so much for sharing this, I'll look into it! It would be good to have a nice indoor play area for him :)
@@TheOutFitI tried pinning a map yesterday - but might be youtube killed the hyperlink. Google ”oppen forskola malmo”. The first hit would land you in the correct place - and down the bottom of that page you’ll find a blue box with a linked map with contact info attached ”Informationsblad med karta”. Good luck!
There is a very nice library within walking distance of your workshop. And right next to the library there is a bathhous with superfriendly kids corner.
Love your work, I’m a home mechanic myself and do all kind of work on my cars, motorcycles, trailers and horsetrailers.
Keep up the good work 💪🏻
Realy enjoying the build interesting to watch
Thanks!
Thank you so much for the extra support!
My brother from another mother; just check that drum brake. They used to be made with asbestos. That’s an old vehicle. It may not be and your mate there is probably more specialists. But just check. Also the tight ones heat up with blow torch
Hey Chris mate, I think I see you getting under the vehicle, relying solely on the trolley jack. If this is the case I recommend you place your wheels flat under the body somewhere, so that if your jack fails, the space these afford you, if it should all fall, might just save your life. If changing a flat tyre, I will always leave the flat tyre and rim under the vehicle for the chassis or body to land on if the jack fails or topples. Cheers.
This was rectified at Day 10 with additional jack stands.
Hey mate get yourself some safety glasses when hammering or using the press , only got to eyes 😎 Cheers
On some of those stubborn bolts you need to use a good old fire wrench! lol. (blow torch to heat it) then it should come right out with a little smack of the hammer.
For the bearing outer cone put them in a freezer overnight and use the induction heater to heat the housing.
They should pretty much fall in 👌
We don't have a freezer unfortunately.
@@TheOutFit that would make it a little bit harder but even just heating the housing would help.
Also if you get stuck on things like ball joints, search TH-cam as there's tutorials for all these types of frustrating jobs.
Going to give some kudos here. Never really liked a lot of your old stuff. It got away from the trucks. Right back in now to see you guys doing the work. That’s what we all want to see. People who enjoy the travel stuff have discovery. Most of us like watching you guys build stuff, drive it, break it, get it unstuck and fix it again.
Do not drill on hammer for steel. You’ll snap drill bits as you’ve said. Hammer is only for masonry bits going through concrete, bricks etc.
You are doing so good. Rocking it.
Bravo !!!!!!! Keep smiling !!!!
To remove the bearing cups, look from the inner side of the hub assembly. You should be able to see about 1 to 2 mm of the back of the inner part of the bearing cup. Using a brass rod or a rod of metal softer than the bearing cup and using the rod like a punch on the visible edge of bearing cup, using a solid hammer on the rod, punch the bearing cup working your way around the bearing cup. I suggest moving around the bearing cap every 45 to 90 deg, tapping the bearing cap out.
Be mindful not to strike the surface where the bearing was seated or the inside surface the bearing cup will be sliding on.
It is harder to replace the cup. My practice was to grind the outside circumference of the bearing, reducing the outside diameter of the bearing cup, so that the cup Wil freely slide in and out of the hub. Cool the bearing cup in a freezer and then put the cup in place and working around the then edger of cup, tap into place so it is going square. Once it is started use your old modified bearing and continue tapping the cup into place and is soundly set in place. You will hear a definite change in the sound has you strike the old cup.
Chris, Ange is right about taking a day off. Not only to rest your body from all the hard work 😓 but to hang out with Oakley and her.
She has been working hard too getting your new home setup and taking care of “little man “🧍♂️ . Enjoy 😉
Lou
Just a fun fact, that Saab, being a GM Saab, is very related to a Holden Vectra estate 😄 So it's pretty australian for being swedish, fitting!
😂
tip to be comfier working on concrete, use some of the cardboard boxes, break them down and it will insulate and pad you a bit, or get some of the cheap kids foam tile playmats. i use the ones that are about half a metre a side. ii keep one in my car. handy for when i'm working on it and keeps me dry when i have to kneel on wet ground.
welcome to Sweden
Congrats on the 80k, the jeep days seem so long ago. Good luck with the build, looking forward to the vids. Thanks Guys.
Thank you so much for watching and following along! We can't believe it all started in 2020 :)
Induction machine makes life a lot easier on them rusted bolts good investment , you can get some ball joints with grease nipple's might be worth looking into
Respekt ❤
Following your rebuild. Very Nice work. I have a Pinzgauer and a Land-Rover FC101
At one moment (time 49:00 min) you mentioned you cleaned/polished the inside of the brake drums. Perhaps it was not literally polished. I interpreted you wrong.
I was taught than when fitting new brake shoes, to check the inside diameter of the drum-brake to ensure they are with in spec and you have enough material. I believe yours will certainly be good.
Then take the drums to a brake shop or engineering works to have the inside of the skimmed on the lathe. That ensure "roundness" and a proper surface for the new brake pads to bed in.
Not trying to critique. Just think polishing a brake surface is not the best (if I understood it correctly)
Perhaps just double check on that as it is a critical safety thing for you and family.
Keep up the build. It's very exciting.
Alot of hard work for both of you, It’s going well ☺️👍 just a bit curious, will you be able to stand inside the Volvo? See you on your next episode 🤩💛💛💛
Thank you so much for following along Marcia! We are planning a roof conversion so yes we will be able to stand inside :)
@@TheOutFit that is a great idea, it’ll be awesome, can’t wait. Big hugs to the three of you 🙌☺️
This is great! cant wait until the next episode! :D
Every Friday :) thanks for watching!
Flare nut wrenches, good call, I like the tread on those tires.
Looking good! Although there are much better specialised tools for drum brakes a set of vipe grips are pretty handy on the springs!
Hi again Chris
When you are using ring n open ended spanner.
If you use ring end on nuts / bolts attach another large ring spanner inverted to the open end too get greater leverage on it wrks well.
Ange n Oakley he is growing so quickly 😀
Hi Chris. See if you can get a rolling bench. With the amount of work you're doing, and what is still to come, it will be far more comfortable and faster for you.
Welcome to Sweden! I recently found your channel and will definitely follow the build.
If you need help with 3d printing/scanning I can probably help you! I've been doing that for many years. Anything like brackets, custom tools, even the Volvo badge on your truck. I'm in southern Sweden 🙂
As a Marine Corps and commercial truck mechanic, as much as I like your channel, this is super frustrating to watch you working on your truck. I do admire your determination. Keep learning and keep up the good work.
A disc kit would be awesome.
It exists but the conversion is very expensive :/ we'll consider it at the end of the build if we have leftover budget.
Sweet. Hope that works out for you.
Hi Chris, with the spring's for brake shoes i use a large sidecutter pliers
Great To see what the process is looks like a nightmare lolooo
Keep up the great work cheers
Just grind the old bearing ring so it fits loose in it's hole and use it as a tool to drive the new bearing ring home. Alternate light blows from side to side so the new bearing ring goes in straight.
Your doing well figuring it all out yourself! but please upgrade your hammers, maybe get a copper one.
I very much want one of these but then the pickupbed version. Have plans drawn up for the camper buid, all I need is some extra money. Lets hope I win the lottery or something
@TheOutFit a friend from work also has a TGB 13🙂 he's told me that if you want to dieselswap them you can take the final drive gearing from the TGB 11. The gear ratio is a little bit higher on those so you get the revs down when cruising at highway speeds. Too bad you already have done the axels😅😅
I haven't done the diffs yet. A regear will need to happen at some point I'm sure