James, this is another INCREDIBLE PROJECT. Love watching the progress, seated, in my livingroom, glass of ice tea, my day finished, watching you do it all by hand...cheers rr in Normandy
HI James, Since you are undecided on flattening the table underside, or "undulating" the cross members to match the table, and your favorite thing is making the curls from paring with a chisel, why not have the best of both worlds, and make a shallow mortise that the support structure fits into? Wow, a 5 foot paring curl done in one stroke! That I would like to see. Can't wait to see this table when complete. Thanks.
When my time in the service concludes, and I can settle into an area long term, my first project will be to build an heirloom quality table of comparable size and design as yours! Thank you for always being a wonderful content producer!
Very interesting structure to hold up such a massive top. I’m interested in seeing how everything comes together. I’d suggest flattening the bottom because I think it would look better but I would agree that using a power planer would be the best way to do that.
I'm looking forward to seeing what you decide on fitting the top. If it was me, I'd probably work the supports down so that they match the top, but that's an awful lot of "put on table, mark where it touches, take off, plane, repeat." Could take a while. Of course, since you've already used the router sled to flatten the top, you could always mark out the areas where the underside will touch and use the router sled to flatten just those areas.
I think flattening the bottom will give better if not easier results. The resin fill pretty well sets 100% traditional to the side. Either way anyone that feels they must look at the bottom to critique your process has too much time on their hands.
She’s looking incredible James!!! I always remember Paul Sellers saying the same thing about how they would rough the bottom with I think he said #6 with a heavy camber and cut just enough for the base to fit. I could be wrong but I definitely think I would go old traditions. Just my two cents take care my friend
James, I always enjoy and learn from your videos. I am learning how to sharpen my chisles correctly and as I become more proficient in sharpening I am paying more attention to technique in using them. I learn more and more watching how you do it and your explanations really help. Not sure if this is the correct sequence of use and then sharpening or sharpening and then use.
With the table design being live edge, but having modern materials in it like epoxy, I would flatten the bottom and make it fit rather trying to make something half modern look historical. Run the power planer over the epoxy spots and make it smooth.
If you leveled the table top from the top/underside (since it is upside down at this point. you could use shims to level your mounting bracketry.....then use a scribe to create an exact fit to the bottom of the tabletop. Of course, it would be difficult to make an exact fit with all the undulations.......you could also use the router (since you "cheated" using a router already) and route out the groove to set your mounting brackets into......would be perfectly level and flat.....just a little cleanup with a chisel, and you would maintain the rough look on the bottom.
When we built our house, my husband said he'd build our entertainment center. That was over twenty years ago. He, finally, started in 2013. He's not finished and it's too big. I had to take a curtain down for it to fit up against the wall. When he mentions building shutters for all the windows, I just give him the stink eye.
Judging by what I see... you should probably level the bottom. But then again... how level is your floor??? Getting that much leveled out will be a HUGE hassle. And if not almost perfect it could tweak and knock it out of square eventually. LOL awesome video as always. Thanks James. Oh... and you should let your kids get on their backs once it’s done and have them leave their mark for future family historical reference!!!! As big as it is you could start a family TREE table???
When the base is complete how are you going to attach the top? Are you going to use fasteners or dowels of some sort? Or do you feel the weight is substantial enough to keep it in place?
Hi, just found it. Been going to ask that for weeks, should have waited till morning and saved the effort . Mind you it's 4.00 am here now. ADOO, ADOO. Well, without further adoo I shall now watch it. :-)
That is one beefy base! No need to flatten the bottom of the table ... just get three flat, coplaner crossgrain strips for the supports and two long ones for the upper stretchers. The rest can stay the way it is.
My thoughts? Flatten the bottom. Think of your poor kids and your kid's friends playing "fort" underneath the table and looking up and saying "Jeez, wotta mess!" Also, flattening will make the tabletop a few pounds lighter when you have to take it upstairs. But otherwise, great work on the design and that joinery!
As Walter and Moonlight below, just flatten the areas where top and frame meet. Your idea of fun is 'Hard work'. So what do you mean more difficult than it seems??? Undulating the cross members sounds the more difficult
Flatten the bottom. You'll deal with one less degree of freedom when you'll have to bring it upstairs and see if it's level or not. And everyone will see the top, not the bottom.
Mmm, it seem that that the title in the video and the title under the video (youtube title?) aren't the sames one say "Making the Legs For the Live Edge Dining Table", the other one say "Turning a bole"
welcome to the inside club. the title card always has something up. often the wrong name all to gather, some times Misspellings, and some times a funny joke.
It's not weird to cut almost sitting on the floor I do it all the time. You a huge inspiration to me as I'm starting as a teenager using hand tools.
Sweet man. Would love to see your work!
My perfectionist side would come out and flatten the bottom even if it would be more work. I can't wait to see the table finished!
well the work is not the question, it is more about keeping the aesthetic of the messy bottom!
Thank you very much, James
James, this is another INCREDIBLE PROJECT. Love watching the progress, seated, in my livingroom, glass of ice tea, my day finished, watching you do it all by hand...cheers rr in Normandy
thanks Richard! that means a lot!
Coming along quite nicely
Thanks!
Coming along nicely James! 👍👊
More fun to come.
Router to flatten the table where the legs attach. Awesome work
That is one of the possibilities. We will see.
Looking good, James!
Ps. Probably best to flatten the bottom.
We will see. So many ways to do it.
HI James,
Since you are undecided on flattening the table underside, or "undulating" the cross members to match the table, and your favorite thing is making the curls from paring with a chisel, why not have the best of both worlds, and make a shallow mortise that the support structure fits into? Wow, a 5 foot paring curl done in one stroke! That I would like to see.
Can't wait to see this table when complete. Thanks.
LOL that would be fun. I would like to do that but the epoxy is the problem and that does not pare out as well.
That is going to be one amazing table....awesome work sir James
Thanks man. Looking forward to sitting at it!
When my time in the service concludes, and I can settle into an area long term, my first project will be to build an heirloom quality table of comparable size and design as yours! Thank you for always being a wonderful content producer!
Sounds liek a fun time. Thanks for your service man!
Very interesting structure to hold up such a massive top. I’m interested in seeing how everything comes together.
I’d suggest flattening the bottom because I think it would look better but I would agree that using a power planer would be the best way to do that.
Yup. I am looking forward to putting in all the angles!
I'm looking forward to seeing what you decide on fitting the top. If it was me, I'd probably work the supports down so that they match the top, but that's an awful lot of "put on table, mark where it touches, take off, plane, repeat." Could take a while.
Of course, since you've already used the router sled to flatten the top, you could always mark out the areas where the underside will touch and use the router sled to flatten just those areas.
I had thought of the router sled. We will see. I have a wile tell I need to make those choices
I love it.
Thanks Mike!
I say flatten the bottom that way you will know you have a good joint and connection when attaching the top.
thanks James! we will see!
I think flattening the bottom will give better if not easier results. The resin fill pretty well sets 100% traditional to the side. Either way anyone that feels they must look at the bottom to critique your process has too much time on their hands.
LOL very true!
She’s looking incredible James!!! I always remember Paul Sellers saying the same thing about how they would rough the bottom with I think he said #6 with a heavy camber and cut just enough for the base to fit. I could be wrong but I definitely think I would go old traditions. Just my two cents take care my friend
thanks Thom. we will see!
Wood By Wright I know not a easy call for sure.
A wizard is never late, nor is he early. He arrives precisely when he means to.
Lol. So true!
Nice bole...
thanks you! I do like it!
such an awesome project James. I hope to start my own very soon
thanks! looking forward to seeing yours!
thanks Its definitely going to be a while due to needing a larger shop ..lol
James, I always enjoy and learn from your videos. I am learning how to sharpen my chisles correctly and as I become more proficient in sharpening I am paying more attention to technique in using them. I learn more and more watching how you do it and your explanations really help. Not sure if this is the correct sequence of use and then sharpening or sharpening and then use.
I tend to sharpen as they need it and stop in the middle of a step and quickly sharpen them up.
I actually like having the bottom of a table unfinished! The only reservation I have in this case is the epoxy showing.
We will see. I have a wile tell I get there. Lots to think about.
With the table design being live edge, but having modern materials in it like epoxy, I would flatten the bottom and make it fit rather trying to make something half modern look historical. Run the power planer over the epoxy spots and make it smooth.
thanks Dan. we will see!
it does not give a smooth cut, but it does remove material. I usually can clean it up with the card scraper fairly quickly.
Hmmm... Don't we know someone who sells them?
If you leveled the table top from the top/underside (since it is upside down at this point. you could use shims to level your mounting bracketry.....then use a scribe to create an exact fit to the bottom of the tabletop. Of course, it would be difficult to make an exact fit with all the undulations.......you could also use the router (since you "cheated" using a router already) and route out the groove to set your mounting brackets into......would be perfectly level and flat.....just a little cleanup with a chisel, and you would maintain the rough look on the bottom.
I am leaning toward the scribe route right now. we will see though!
When we built our house, my husband said he'd build our entertainment center. That was over twenty years ago. He, finally, started in 2013. He's not finished and it's too big. I had to take a curtain down for it to fit up against the wall. When he mentions building shutters for all the windows, I just give him the stink eye.
Lol yup sounds about right.
thank you . if i may suggest flatten the joint areas only so it fits right so spot planing ???
that is what I would like to do, but it is a bit more work then it sounds.
Maybe try flattening only the areas of the underside that are in contact with the base? That way you keep the history and keep it all flat
that is what I would like to do but it is more difficult then it sounds.
Judging by what I see... you should probably level the bottom. But then again... how level is your floor??? Getting that much leveled out will be a HUGE hassle. And if not almost perfect it could tweak and knock it out of square eventually. LOL awesome video as always. Thanks James. Oh... and you should let your kids get on their backs once it’s done and have them leave their mark for future family historical reference!!!! As big as it is you could start a family TREE table???
I like the family tree idea. I might have to play with that Idea!
your making great progress. i'd say flatten, should help with weight too
Thanks. That is one of the thoughts. Time will tell.
When the base is complete how are you going to attach the top? Are you going to use fasteners or dowels of some sort? Or do you feel the weight is substantial enough to keep it in place?
there will be 4 locator pins from the base into the table to keep it from sliding around, but the weight of it will keep it in place.
Hey James, are there any more videos on the Live Edge Dining Table. It's left a bit up in the air. Wood By Wright
I actually just released then next one a few minutes ago. it has been way too long!
Hi, just found it. Been going to ask that for weeks, should have waited till morning and saved the effort . Mind you it's 4.00 am here now. ADOO, ADOO. Well, without further adoo I shall now watch it. :-)
That is one beefy base! No need to flatten the bottom of the table ... just get three flat, coplaner crossgrain strips for the supports and two long ones for the upper stretchers. The rest can stay the way it is.
that is what I am thinking except for where the support goes through the epoxy.
Do you think flattening the epoxy would be difficult or perhaps that it would impact it's clarity?
I fear cutting into he epoxy will change how-much light is let through, but I do not know for sure.
My thoughts? Flatten the bottom. Think of your poor kids and your kid's friends playing "fort" underneath the table and looking up and saying "Jeez, wotta mess!"
Also, flattening will make the tabletop a few pounds lighter when you have to take it upstairs.
But otherwise, great work on the design and that joinery!
LOL eather that or it feels like more of a magical cave!
Who made your holdfasts?
Black bear Forge best out there IMO.
As Walter and Moonlight below, just flatten the areas where top and frame meet. Your idea of fun is 'Hard work'. So what do you mean more difficult than it seems??? Undulating the cross members sounds the more difficult
It is more to do with the epoxy and messing up having more light come through in some aries then others.
You know the saying „sometimes you loose, sometime others win“?
LOL yup!
To me this is all about the top and the natural look. Leave it as is. Probably too late now!!
yup everyone has different tastes when it comes to table bases.
I'm thinking small floor sander on the table underbelly.
LOL that would be a funny one!
Especially when James hand planed & scraped the floors which will support this table.
LOL right on. but I may have learned my lesson!
Gotta be flat James. Haha
Flatten the bottom. You'll deal with one less degree of freedom when you'll have to bring it upstairs and see if it's level or not. And everyone will see the top, not the bottom.
We will see.
Just flatten out the area that the trusses are, give it the look of being inlayed
We will see.
Mmm, it seem that that the title in the video and the title under the video (youtube title?) aren't the sames
one say "Making the Legs For the Live Edge Dining Table", the other one say "Turning a bole"
welcome to the inside club. the title card always has something up. often the wrong name all to gather, some times Misspellings, and some times a funny joke.
So I miss the jok, maybe my english is too bad to get it
sorry
dont wory most people dont even see it.
Why don't you mark the base where it touches the top and just router it flat where it touches
That is the route I'm thinking about going.
Trying to fit the base to undulations will lead to chasing your tail... so to speak
Sounds like my normal problems. Lol