AQUACERAS Part 9 | Putting a Radiator INSIDE a Distro Plate WITHOUT Tubes | bit-tech Modding
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- Okay let's do something a little different, how about putting the top radiator directly inside a distro plate? I've wanted to do this for so long now, what better occasion aye? If you want to see what else can be done with this, check out Mike as he's going to take it to the next level, like usual.
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Link to Datron Tooling:
bit.ly/39sqxiF
The CNC Router I use is a CNCStep High-Z S1000T:
bit.ly/30Q5C5A
Link to our webshop:
store.bit-tech...
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You are the Picasso of PC modding. ❤️❤️❤️
I second that.
Rather the Dali ( better imo and shares similar moustache )
Except Pablo Picasso was poor,this guy isnt.
@@voxdeus Hahaha. 😅
I really wish to become like him. The main restraint is having the tools for the job.
Not sure if it applies to UK but I used Eliare Corp in the US. They have a lot of different collets for my router (any many other common routers) both in metric and standard. I’m sure shipping would be a killer for UK but the collets themselves aren’t pricey. They can even do custom ones upon request.
this guy deserves way more views, as the level of design/engineering here is fantastic.
on topic of the video, i wonder if you want work with any of the OEMs of commercial radiators (hwlabs, aquacool, ek, etc) to custom fab a few for you?
Are we going to see more of this build?
He’s probably waiting on the radiator to get there.
@@landonluebke7627its been about 6 months, safe to say hes probably making his own radiator at this point, , and said screw the cheap china manufacturing
Eagerly waiting for this video
A perfect mean to celebrate Friday night
Sorry about your brother Chev :( He was an interesting dude
@@TheXbrocker 😣😣
On your next go-around with the radiator you should look into replacing that screen with an engraved metal plate! Trophy shops can often make you custom one-offs to your exact dimensions (or you could create a file for them). Could be really cool...maybe even nickel plate it to tie in to your fittings!
Not a bad shout that. A lot of folks have been asking for cherry inlays but the space is way too thin, so it would protrude or warp most likely. I could engrave a plate myself easily enough too, which is interesting.
@@bittech1 How about this for an idea...
Seeing as it is already designed to handle electronics.
Why not use a piece of Acrylic (Or glass) with machined beveled edges to match the contours of the radiator sides.
Then, either machine, Or, acid etch (if it is glass) the name of the build; "AQUACERAS" into the Acrylic (Or Glass).
And finally, backlight it using some LED/LCD backlighting strips that can be purchased from "AliExpress" or "eBay" and cut to your desired length, then have that logo be backlit at all times?
Edit:
To stop light bleed you could use a thick Black electrical tape and adhere it to the back of the material and it's edges using a High-Temp SuperGlue, Or, a black-dyed epoxy resin mix.
Poke me for more ideas, I am happy to provide input or further details to explain the concept highlighted here :)
@@bittech1:)
Hey, is there part 10? I pretty love this build
He is probably waiting on the radiator to get there, so he can continue.
Well looks like you'll just need to machine your own radiator next! Seriously though, impressive work on this, really next level stuff.
Beautiful, but that barrow name etched on the led screen makes it seem cheap. I have an aquacomputer airplex 2/360 with the copper fins if you want it. You can have it for free if you throw that barrow trash in the recycle bin.
If it can fit in the space, I may well consider switching. Only issue though is I don't know the internal requirements for the aquacomputer rads, for instance they may require much thicker end tanks etc. Guess I should grab one to find out eh?
i approve of this idea, a copper fin radiator would totally make sense.. just look at the materials on the build, aluminium + wood accents, that black fin radiator don't look too fitting in there.. a copper radiator would totally fit in that elegant build, it would have a steampunk/art noveau vibe to it..
@@pihermoso11 Just remember there are fans on it too though. Tbh I'm a bit torn because 9 times out of 10 black fits better with things since it's neutral. There's no copper anywhere in this rig so it would probably look more out of place if anything. Black is neutral, so it just recedes into the background.
@@bittech1 +1 to throw away the Barrow trash and use the aquacomputer. Yes you don't have copper anywere, but you can easily add it right? I would for example make the pump heatsinks on copper, and make the connectors you are using to fit between distros the same thing. Sand blast it, protect it against the oxidation and done.
Change some bits that are not that essential to the overall look of the build but can create a contrast as you've made with the wood parts. For a build as yours were you show all the materials you like to work with and everything has to be mostly perfect, that rads simply don't fit, construction and looks wise.
@@bittech1 sorry i haven't thought about the fans over it tho.. (so what fans are you putting on the rad? rgb? ) , ok there's no copper in your rig yet but it was the wood accents which made me think of copper rad right away, i suddenly imagined copper rad + retro noctua fans (w/c everybody hates lol ).. those brown noctua fans color are not far off from your wood accent
but i think you're right, once the fans go in, it won't matter if its a copper rad or black rad... the rad fan will take up most of the visual
This series is absolutely awesome. Thank you so much for sharing. One question though, is the sound slightly distorted on this episode? Or is it just me?
not just you, it's a little funky, not terrible just funky
Yeah it's a fault with the lav mic :/ It popped up a couple weeks back too, when my volume picks up it clips, but if I lower the sensitivity it doesn't register properly.
I'll see if I can dig out my other one, but the sound signature of that one is iffy. They're pricey Sennheiser ones so replacing them is a bit annoying to say the least.
@bit-tech, Love how modular that radiator is and that it can be taken apart so easily ... until I watched the end when you said it was a piece of crap.
Yeah it was a massive let down for me also.
@@bittech1 IMHO a light sanding and a bit (more) of epoxy glue would solve this problem once and for all.
parts will be obsolete once you have finished
J. H. But who really cares?
Maybe some wooden accents will look nice instead of those screens on the radiator, I think if would match the cable combs nicely :)
I cringed bad when I saw those fins. So bad I think I have actually developed OCD.
Got done with work opened yt to scroll. First video i see is this .. made me happy instantly.
I have a question do you want the heat exchanger in the readiator to be black. To me it doesn't fit the theme.
Also i think the mismatch o rings might have something to do with the pressure drop in the heat exchanger.
Put a top hat and cape on this dude and he looks like a 1920s magician. FFWD to today give this dude a C&C and Acrylic.. Same Profession
Find me out for the suitable radiator Alex.:) Check your FB .
The technical part was really cool, how you do location. On the other hand, sorry about the radiator, unless you redo all that, you are committed. Hope the next one works out. Love watching this build progress. 😀
This is becoming a truly astonishing build. Loving this series. Thank you.
This guy is so talented. Absolutely love this channel.
Oh dang I measured 1.35 and 1.5 mm for the o ring channel depths on the radiator. Glad I watched this before I cut mine too deep
My life won't be complete until this build is complete 😊I see you have your new part for your CNC now, so hopefully the next edition will be be published soon. As your personal rig I think this build is one of your best and one you should be rightfully proud of. By the way, did you know that in your channels AQUACERAS play list you have ep 7 listed twice. It did my head in thinking but there is 10 videos here and I am only up to ep 9!!! 🤨! Again, great vidio, thanks for sharing 5⭐'s
I'm waiting next Part
Does he forget or what and I'm still waiting too...
Can anyone tell me what music was playing during the montage??
@24.00
If you can't find sodium hydroxide, just get some liquid drain cleaner from your local grocery store. Works perfectly fine too.
I have withdrawal symptoms alex... need moar aquaceras vids :)
Also, sweet stache
Also, love the detailed explanations u provide
U r the reason im making my own scratch build :)
i hope this gets done before AMD release their 5th gen RYZEN series....
Let's be real, every single part in this rig will probably be massively outdated before it's finished haha. I'd honestly consider waiting for a next gen Nvidia card at this point but the rear panel is now done. Eh maybe I'd be able to figure out something, I can re-machine things easily enough thanks to my current locating system.
@@bittech1 if you don't want it anymore i'll gladly take it off your hands! that case is a masterpiece!
pi hermoso you try building such difficult project , I bet you can’t. Let alone dust out your own Xbox or pick the dirty laundry in your mothers basement were you crawl thru to get to your failed Call of duty rounds !!!
@@mannyrivera6990 i don't have an xbox, but i got a sony betamax, i was born 1979, what year were you born??
@@pihermoso11 try 1972 but yeah whatever that means, cut the dude a break.... If not don't troll the videos
I'm loving the design and all the work you put into it. But I can't believe you're putting that ugly, cheep Radiator in there there has to be somebody local who can make you a copper one. Or even clear anodized aluminum
This is the custom radiator company from Adam Savage build of a space suit AC system. I think the two of you can work out something
www.evapco-alcoil.com/products/microcoilstm-s-serpentine-series
Thanks for showing the work that goes on behind the scenes, would enjoy seeing how you do a tool change and tool touch-off.
Thx for sharing this series... Been watching every single episode of this series
Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaam U man ........................... U R THEEEE BEST ..... can't wait 2 c the final of this project ......... may i suggest to give a cool name 4 this project
Why do you use your champfermill on the outside anticlockwise? (G41) Normaly, on steel, this will get you a worse surface finish.
Acrylic behaves differently, for finish passes I run conventional, leaves a very clear finish. On aluminium though I always run climb, same reasoning as you would use for steel.
@@bittech1 inzeresting ;)
Thank you.
I have yet another question.
You use hss mills, right?
Would there be a benefit ist you use carbitemills. I know the snap easier, but maybe for surface finishing, because of the higher possible rpm (if your spindel can spin so fast).
@@yannick1426 I only use carbide, pretty much for the same reasons you listed haha
When are we getting the next video in this series? Loving it.
Nice mustache
#bit-tech I will be f...ng serious now man, You should patent this! Combo rad+distro plate if freaking AMAZING!! Lian Li should learn from you . This project is absolutely out of this world.
Should really be sponsored by CNC manufacturers, i really want one now:D
Hello,
great build, love it.
what are the possibilities of modding aluminum (e.g. black Heatkiller IV/V) to achieve the surface finish of the aqua?
SEXXXXXYYYY!!!!! You make me not want to build another computer till I own a CNC machine!
I have 3 aqua computer modular rads 140 x3 120x3 and not sure what the 3rd is. its could be 120 or 140 I WOULD HAVE TO LOOK.
I _was_ about to question why you wouldn't use the AquaComputer ones... I for one am using a 140 one with the integrated pump for my CNC ( imgur.com/5kEJEp0 )
Btw... They _are_ in stock in their own shop: shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2710
I hope this makes sense, but I am still confused about your re-fixturing/setup method to perform subsequent subsequent milling operations on a workpiece.
@22:31 in the video, you appear to place the frosted work piece against the pegs on your fixture plate, creating a reference for that side as a Y axis edge somewhere along the X axis of your machine coordinate system.
Then you use the edge finder probe to touch off against the left edge of the workpiece to get the X value for your Workpiece Coordinate System (WCS).
You never get the Y value for the origin coordinate of your WCS.
How does your controller software know where the Y axis is on your fixture plate's X axis?
Are those pins located at known coordinates with known radiuses that allow you to calculate the Y coordinate?
Do you touch off on a Y edge of the workpiece, but did not show it?
You never explained that part of your process. So, the confusion persists for one viewer.
Bit-tech when he doesn't have a girlfriend "I'm just gonna mill myself a girl friend with 20mm clear acrylic, and just for fun I'm gonna put a destro plate on her"
PS: I don't know if he is married or has a girlfriend.
I"m very surprised the Barrow rad is junk, their kit is usually top notch. Although I'd love to see you make your own DDC housings, I can attest to the quality of the Barrow ones, and the silver model isn't a million miles away from the bead blasted finish you're using. Certainly would look nicer than those horrid nickel-plated things, they look like the Alphacool 310 heatsinks I have here and my god the finish is ghastly.
What's the title of the last piece, with the guitar? Absolutely loved it. And, of course, stunning work as ever!
Instant like for making my Friday complete.
You are what singularity computers wanted to become, but never actually had the imagination to achieve. Anything they've ever hyped up through their self-aggrandizing speeches pales in comparison to what you're doing without overselling any of it.
once you finish Aquaceras you should build a keyboard
I wish to know what the last song is!
This is my dream job 😁😍 Says that have only $250 gaming setup
Extremely awesome and laborious project. Über cool.
anyone but me thinking of how awesome a completely naked radiator would look? glassblasted finish, no paint, no anodizing. i dont know how feasible or practical that would be but god damn it would look awesome.
Hello.
Can you tell me the model number of the Thread endmill you are using to make your G1/4 threaded holes?
What a beautiful chassis failed by this ugly rad. I'm really sad now. :(
All your computers are so beautiful I forget which is which.
But by doing the mods on parts aren't you finishing off the guarantee/warranty of all those parts?
I really like your works. Could you accept special orders? From France?
Can you not make two datum holes through which you can clamp with a c/s head screw. I know it will leve two redundant holes.
Damn! This is marvelous! PC water cooling engineering at its finest!
At th-cam.com/video/-NWIC-0Y8ig/w-d-xo.html 26:01 inside the radiator, is that some blue-green corrosion on the copper? Might want to get rid of that so oxide flakes won't make the the clear water channels look fouled.
Is no one talking about the guitar fadeaway song in the background? that was amazing
well, I did ask for it two days ago... let's hope Mike takes a heart and tells us what that is - the piece and the player are absolutely top class!
Lonely Charades by Adrés Cantú
Is it Stable looks like if you grab the and then wobble or bend it it will leak maybe a support structure for the radiator overall Nice pc its gonna be iam impressed of how you get the acrylic so clean what Mills en feed end Speeds are you doing in metric
Those you could probably braze up that stripped screw hole on that and redrill and tap the hole probably be strong to....
Replace those radiator screen covers with a small piece of wood to match the cable combs. Those little black screens look so cheap and out of place on an otherwise amazing design.
How does a guy with a quality content and a cool mustache does not have more subs?
Note, would not the weight of the radiator in time cause some sort of leak? Latter with the fans to add more additional weight might add more stress in the distro screws.
99k subs! I would have thought you would be in the millions!
collab with Singularity Computer
I repair radiators at work in the automotive industry all the time. You can remover the the tanks that are braized on with an acetylene torch and an air blower. To re atach you need muriatic acid and silver sodder. That is of you really wanted to do it. We do it to rod the cooling tubes
i'm French and i love your JOB Man ! I want work with you in real haha !
If you don't like the screen, could you replace it with a wood accent?
That's not modding. That's just simply nuts! 😃
Who did the Spanish style guitar music in your video?
Hey, Alex. What is with this build? Any plan to finish that?
WTF is part 10? I'm not getting any younger.
Have you finished this wonderful build yet?
@bit-tech Hello, greetings from Germany! I am absolutely fascinated about all your Work. I love how you make Thoughts come true. I made my first round with CNC and Acrylic at the local "Fablab" of the University, but in corona times, i have no access to the cnc anymore... i am wondering, if i could even 3d-Print a Distroplate and just put a Plexiglass Top on it?! Which Filament and print settings would i need to give it a try? I took your Fusion 360 Lessons (and some others) and would like to give it a try. which printer would i use in the best case? Anycubic Chiron, Creality CR10 V4, Artillery Sidewinder X1? I am even wondering if i could seal it with flex filament instead of glued rubber band?! The X1 with its direct-drive-extruder would be predestinated for flex..
Would love to read your thoughts about it, here soon.. Love your work, go on like this.. you are incredible genius..
Heyo! I would be very hesitant about FDM 3D printing a distro if I'm honest. You'd have to use a higher temperature and water resistant filament for starters, but on top that you get issues like warping, inconsistent layers and porosity etc. You *could* do it I'm sure by coating the parts etc, but the risk is pretty hefty too.
@@bittech1 well thank you for you answer I thought about printing nylon filament because it is pretty temperature and chemical resistant (up to 140°C before this stuff gives up). Alphacool uses this material with their "Eisball" res-Combo, for example. Thx for the Advice, i' ll give it some try.. 8f you want, I can show you some results, later
Still dont get it, How the F dont you have more Subs?
fantastic work - what is the last tune (guitar solo) called?
What happened to this build?
Will there be a finished build video?
Почему нельзя поставить 2 лайка?
Are you going to get radiator sag when it is full of water? Might be worth hanging some weight of it.
Who da fak can put a dislike on this video What? This is amazing its like art fr
Thanks! Here in the States we call that type of edgefinder a “wiggler” :)
I'm partial to the Clickspring Wiggla myself
What happened to this build. Waiting for an update.
Very Very nice. Can the radiator and the threads handle the stick out when theres water in it?
This radiator actually has some bad reviews on Aliexpress, some people reported some quality and longevity issues, that's why i did not buy one when i first saw it!
Have a great weekend and keep the videos coming
One of my nerd bucket list items is to commission you for a PC build. Keep up the good work. Love the concepts, designs, presentation and the outcome!
At least you can get the radiator without the LCD screen
How do you make rubbers for sealing?
What's going on with this build? Waiting on parts?
Is that project will not be completed?
how did you make those rubbery parts?
Following along this incredible build! Quick question, do you have the names of the first and third songs? Amazing choices in music!
Will pop them up in the description, first is Automagic by Bonkers Beat Club and third is Detroit (Aldous Young Remix) by SINY
@@bittech1 And what about the last piece? This is one of the best guitars I have heard for a long time!
This case will cost more then my pc....
You really should get some closed loop stepper motors.
What was the first song played?
Looks like something from the future.
Dean McCoppin " *ART* ".jpeg
Potentially a reason why the rad's screws where shearing was because of the weight at the end of the rad causing an abnormal amount stress because way you have it mounted. it could be something to look into, I mean I really wouldn't be able to be 100 percent sure about the theory unless I was there myself to see how poor the quality of the rad it but you get the point.
Naa I was holding the rad when they sheared, it reckon it was over-torquing in the factory that did it. Even with the printed cap I didn't screw them in hard just because I was worried about damaging the O-rings (the prints are good but sometimes can have small burrs).
@@bittech1 dam that's terrible
This is awesome. I love the clean look.
This might sound really stupid, I’m no craftsman and haven’t ever built a custom loop, but I really enjoy watching Bit-Tech and had a thought. Since he pretty much custom makes almost every structural part himself. Could he custom make the runs? As in instead of using the typical acrylic / PETG or using stainless steel tubes, could he make his own with a unique design. Possibly out of the glass blasted aluminium as either the main tubing material or as an aesthetic touch. Could not have circular tubes, something like oval? Maybe it’s impossible I don’t know I just thought it could be an interesting concept.
Anyway, love the series
It's all possible to be honest, although specifically aluminium is an issue due to galvanic corrosion. Other materials can be used if you have the vision for them and related skills. For instance I would love to do blown glass tubing, but that's such an art form in its own right. I did a glass blowing course to get a feel for it, but frankly I can't see myself ever really having the time to learn it to an appropriate level.