Sorry this video took so long, let's just say i learned a ton about video editing during this video. Unfortunately these were lessons learned by making mistakes that weren't always easy to fix. The audio in particular leaves a bit to be desired in a few spots. The positive thing is i picked up bracketry to use my go pro as a video source in many more tight spots (it happens right after the fuel tank is reinstalled in the video) That's led me to some discoveries about multi-angle video editing and it really does make things way better to be able to switch things over to a better angle when i start pointing to something that isn't properly visible. I've also re-framed a few shots and it's obvious that a 4k or at least a 2.7k camera as a primary camera would be way better than this 1k camera i'm currently using. I'm happy with 1k output but shooting in 1k means there's no room at all to pan, zoom and rotate in post processing when necessary. So yeah, I guess I'll start saving some money for even more recording gear. My main lights work well but i need more small clip-on lights for when i'm working in confined spaces. Especially now that the go-pro lets me film in those spaces.
Ok a few things i learned when doing mine and from others. 1. You do not need to take the AC lines off (just unbolt where they are mounted and they will move out of the way.) 2. you do not need to unhook the Fuel Line at the flair Nut. (you can take 2 bolts off the line and un-bolt the line at the banjo nut on the bottom of the fuel filter. wish i had done that) 3. You do not need to use the Drain plugs on the coolant lines (seeing they can brake off) just un-hook the rubber hoses and drain in to a Bucket. 4. like Marty at MCM make sure you check your fuel return line in the old cars in can be plugged and you have to drop the tank again. 5. make sure you test the pump out before putting the tank back in. (mine had not been plugged all the way in and i had to drop it again.) 6. i had cleaned all the leads and ground contact points in the tank might check them on the outside also. and make sure you get the wires in the hole so you do not pinch them between the tank and the floor and have to drop the tank a 3rd time. (almost happened to me.) Hope this helps Others. and thanks for the video.
Great job pulling this one together as well Marc! The videography is just right for your audience. I wouldn't worry so much about it. :-) Thanks again for all your contributions!
just as I started to gain interest in a v6 swap this series started to pop up and it's probably the most informative one I've ever seen for such a specific swap. keep up the great work
@@FrankensteinMotorworks it’s all with good intent! Great content btw I’m looking into doing a possible 2gr setup and your stuff if very informative! Hoping to do business in the near future with you!
I feel like I learn something new every time you post a video and it doesn't matter what the content. Thanks for posting. I can dream of a 2gr in my mrs but I'll be happy to turbo my 2zz.
I appreciate all the details in your videos. I am doing my first 2grfe in my 95 NA and just bought a turnkey DIY TCS swap. I'll be looking back at your videos for help. Thanks for all you do.
@@paimei7988 Sorry, you're right i forgot about the fact that he does still use the headers. Send me an e-mail and we can discuss the details there. Marc@FrankensteinMotorworks.com
*lol* nice :) and yeah, that inductive heater is amazing. I used to love my Oxy-Acetylene torch for loosening bolts but i hated how much stuff it set on fire. This avoids all of the downsides. The brand i have is the mini-ductor and it works great but i have no reason to believe any others work any differently.
Yeah, I've had these parts for sale for 11 years but you're right that it's just taking off. 2019 was a huge turn for the MR2 2gr-fe v6 swaps. And yeah, the turbo should be fun :)
This is great, your helping the mr2 community in a very fantastic way. Your videos is helping me to want a v6 installed this summer. Keep up the good work my friend.
Even though I don't own a mr2 but I love your videos on the 2gr-fe builds. Apart from the crappy cylinder lining design of the 2gr I strongly believe it does not have the due respect in the tuning world as it deserves hence probably why the aftermarket support is so weak. I did have my fare share of owning various 4 bangers and now I own a 08 sienna, yes, family man constraints. I plan to turbo it for a little fun in the future so I cannot wait for more videos of this build when you boost it. I have researched much on the ecu options and it doesn't leave very much room other than going stand alone to keep it safe in moderate boost levels. In the perfect world would be to configure the stock ecu to do some magic and keep everything else in my van happy. 😉 Thank you for these content; very insightful and rare on the TH-cam platform. Keep up the awesome work. Long live the 2grs!
I absolutely agree, the 2GR does not get the respect it deserves but that's honestly a fair statement across most of the Toyota line. They make some pretty nice drivetrains and other than the supra stuff it really just does not get the attention it should. I'm trying to make a small difference in that. Also, technically the sienna did come with a 2.7L 1AR-FE option but it is very rare. It is also a pretty neat motor though.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks Much appreciated for putting such great materials out there. Any ideas on what type of aftermarket esm setup will work the best with a boosted sienna w/automatic transmission? I want to keep everything else happy and functional. Will a full stand alone work well along side the stock ecu. Intercepting and tricking type piggyback ecu is not a very smart option for obvious reasons.
Hey man! You’re doing a great job. I’ve been contemplating buying one that’s been sitting for close to 20 years. Thanks for all the information! I’m slightly less determined to try and resurrect it now unfortunately but regardless I’m enjoying your build! Keep up the good work!
Logan, just get under it first to see if it has a bunch of surface rust that will be problematic. Many MR2s leaked a ton of oil from the factory so they have a good anti-rust coating.
Frankenstein Motorworks for the advice! luckily it’s in GA and it doesn’t look too rusty at all. The only reason I’m considering it is because it was parked with 20k miles on it. I’d like to restore it and put a 3sgte or v6 in it, but want to make sure that it’s a doable project and I’m not just won over with the low miles.
@@stevethecarguy If it's a southern car there's a good chance it's good. If you want, go snap a bunch of pictures and send them to me and I'll be happy to give you my opinion. There are going to be some things that are in bad shape no matter what but until i see it, i'd expect a southern car sitting for 20 years to cost about $2k in additional costs over a car that is otherwise being used.
Yeah, that's the one that i think a lot of people are looking forward to. I need to do some more thinking on how to best present it and handle all the variations but I'm really looking forward to getting it done :)
@@FrankensteinMotorworks i keep my eye open. kinda kick myself for not buying a 91 a woman tried selling when i had it come in the shop with a rod hanging out. co worker bought it before i could get the cash lined up and he sold it.. was a clean red one from Florida too. oh well another will come
@@001dman Yeah, these are rare but not ridiculously rare. But they are going up in value significantly so you may want to move sooner than later on that.
Did you do it yourself or get it from a shop? I'm getting a lot of people in the last 12-18 months that have needed a ton of debugging on their 3rd party modified harnesses. But either way, feel free to send me questions if the next video does not quite cover what you need.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks I did it myself, at the time I didn't know anybody doing the conversion harnesses. I replaced the MR2 engine bay fuse box with the Rav4 fuse box and with help from the Rav4 wiring diagram book, I got it all running with no codes, but it is a big rats nest. I'm considering buying Mr2 and Rav4 harnesses from a junkyard and having a harness made. I may need to repair my body harness where it feeds into the engine bay though.
@@DallasJ You got to no codes on an unmodified rav4 ECU? that's an accomplishment right there. If you do swap it back, make sure you get the body harness from the right year and motor. toyota has so many differences in the MR2s between different years and engines.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks I should have said no "important" codes. I got the usual transmission, downstream O2, and evap codes. Could you tell me where the swap harnesses tie into the MR2? I'm assuming it's around the fuse box on the passenger side of the engine bay. Is that fuse box kept?
@@DallasJ Ahh, ok. that makes more sense. You should really consider upgrading to my tune and MAF pipe. It makes a bit more power across the entire RPM range but more importantly, you'll find the power delivery to be much more satisfying and you'll get a working check engine light. The swap harness I will be discussing will not require any changes to the stock car wiring harness but we will need to steal connectors from the stock engine wiring harness. It'll connect to the car in five locations. Three in the engine bay fuse box (both connectors and the power post), the connector that goes to the stock ECU from the body harness and the connector that sits right below the stock ECU.
You said you would prefer the AEM fuel pump, but it flows too much for the stock return line. What would need to be done to make that work? My aw11's gas tank was already pulled, and a lot of the fuel system is missing. I figure if I'm rebuilding it now, why not make it better for my 2gr swap
Thank you so much, in trying to get all the pieces to make this exact swap in my '96 sw20. The problem here in Spain is that i need some specialist that can handmade me all the exhaust pipes and the exhaust mainfold, because of the restrictions it needs to have the mufflers and all the anticontamination stuff. Do you think that i can fit everything in the sw20 bay or i search for another engine model to swap?
Fitting the stock catalytic converters in the SW20 will require some tweaking but it can be done. The issue that comes up is they don't fit in 100% stock shape which makes it invalid for a California CARB legal build but as long as you only need the equipment but you don't need to match the stock equipment location you'll be perfectly fine.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks thats what i was asking. Yes the lines and the catalytic converters needs to be pass a test and be homologated but i dont need them to be the exact shape as the stock ones, thats why im searching for someone to make them. Thank you man.
800$ for a 2GR-FE two years ago? I can only dream of these numbers here in Europe, Germany. Cheapest posted 2GR-FE posted here is ~2200€(only long block, no auxilaries) and usually they are around 3500-4000€ ^^
Many places in europe tax cars by displacement so it just does not make sense to put 3.5L engines in a bunch of cars because it raises the price by too much. In the USA, putting a 3.5L engine in a car just makes it more likely to sell so we had an absolute pile of these made over here.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks I dont think the engine volume and taxation is a problem in this regard. Yes, indeed, car do get taxed differently by their engine volume but I would say the "issue" is just that in most countries, French, Italian or German cars dominate the market way more than japanese cars do here in Europe. I can get VAG V6 or BMW inline-6 for almost nothing here in comparison to engines like the 2GR, a K-series(3.000-5.000€) or even the 2AR-FE(prices range from 1500-3000€ roughly) Also, I just want to say a huge thank you to all the parts, documentation and videos you provide. I've commented on one of your other videos recently about the headers and Im still in the process of summarizing a big document for the inspectors here. All of your work helps hugely in this regard
just out of curiosity, do you think it would be possibly to "shoehorn" one of these engines into a zze122r corolla? i know some engineering for the engine mounts will be the biggest setback, but my main question in more on the size and positioning of everything around this combination!
That's one of those things you really can't know until you try it. Most engine bays from the same class of cars from the same manufacturer are relatively similar dimensions but it's something like a shock tower being 3/8" further in at the wrong spot that ruins your day and i really have no way to know that for your car.
Thank you man, im watching this closely as I hope to do this to my 91 this summer hopefully, I do wanna keep AC in my car hopefully, does it it complicate it much?
The compressor bolts right no and you just need to add lines. it really does not add much complication. See this thread: www.mr2oc.com/threads/2gr-fe-a-c-solution.633066/
The "Walbro 255" is what people call the Walbro GSS 341 because it nominally flows 255lph. I could have been more clear about that for people that haven't been in the MR2 scene for so long.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks you mentioned that there were other better pumps that are options. Do you have any recommendations for other pumps to consider
so i believe it should be a 2GR-FXE engine, just wondered if this was covered in your mods etc , thank you for your time :) as these seem to be cheaper in the UK FE's are 2k and above :(
@@atdetail4900 the RX450 hybrid got the 2gr-fxe. the rx350 for the 2gr-fe. I've never tried using the 2gr-fxe, since it's still mounted transverse it's likely the same crankcase and bellhousing bolt pattern. I suspect the cams are different as well as the vvt-i actuators so it would probably confuse the stock 2gr-fe ECU if you plan on using my tuned ECU. If you're planning on going with an aftermarket ECU you can likely use it. A quick search for pictures shows that the motor mount would very likely fit
I'm actually French Canadian but i've been living in the USA for two decades now so i'm not sure where Irish comes from but it certainly isn't insulting :)
Sorry this video took so long, let's just say i learned a ton about video editing during this video. Unfortunately these were lessons learned by making mistakes that weren't always easy to fix. The audio in particular leaves a bit to be desired in a few spots.
The positive thing is i picked up bracketry to use my go pro as a video source in many more tight spots (it happens right after the fuel tank is reinstalled in the video)
That's led me to some discoveries about multi-angle video editing and it really does make things way better to be able to switch things over to a better angle when i start pointing to something that isn't properly visible.
I've also re-framed a few shots and it's obvious that a 4k or at least a 2.7k camera as a primary camera would be way better than this 1k camera i'm currently using. I'm happy with 1k output but shooting in 1k means there's no room at all to pan, zoom and rotate in post processing when necessary. So yeah, I guess I'll start saving some money for even more recording gear.
My main lights work well but i need more small clip-on lights for when i'm working in confined spaces. Especially now that the go-pro lets me film in those spaces.
subscribed. Also bought some stuff and getting ready for the swap.
Ok a few things i learned when doing mine and from others.
1. You do not need to take the AC lines off (just unbolt where they are mounted and they will move out of the way.)
2. you do not need to unhook the Fuel Line at the flair Nut. (you can take 2 bolts off the line and un-bolt the line at the banjo nut on the bottom of the fuel filter. wish i had done that)
3. You do not need to use the Drain plugs on the coolant lines (seeing they can brake off) just un-hook the rubber hoses and drain in to a Bucket.
4. like Marty at MCM make sure you check your fuel return line in the old cars in can be plugged and you have to drop the tank again.
5. make sure you test the pump out before putting the tank back in. (mine had not been plugged all the way in and i had to drop it again.)
6. i had cleaned all the leads and ground contact points in the tank might check them on the outside also. and make sure you get the wires in the hole so you do not pinch them between the tank and the floor and have to drop the tank a 3rd time. (almost happened to me.) Hope this helps Others. and thanks for the video.
Great job pulling this one together as well Marc! The videography is just right for your audience. I wouldn't worry so much about it. :-) Thanks again for all your contributions!
Thank you, i appreciate that. It does not change the fact that i want to continue delivering an even better product :)
just as I started to gain interest in a v6 swap this series started to pop up and it's probably the most informative one I've ever seen for such a specific swap. keep up the great work
You are like the Bob Ross of Mr2 install and fabrications! “No accidents just happy snap oversteer!”
Thank you for watching and commenting, this made me laugh more than it should have :)
@@FrankensteinMotorworks it’s all with good intent! Great content btw I’m looking into doing a possible 2gr setup and your stuff if very informative! Hoping to do business in the near future with you!
I feel like I learn something new every time you post a video and it doesn't matter what the content. Thanks for posting. I can dream of a 2gr in my mrs but I'll be happy to turbo my 2zz.
Glad i can help, I try to pass on the tricks where i can. As for the Spyder, there's more 2AR-FE contents coming soon :)
I'm looking forward to seeing it. 2ar engines are a lot cheaper than the k20 here.
I appreciate all the details in your videos. I am doing my first 2grfe in my 95 NA and just bought a turnkey DIY TCS swap. I'll be looking back at your videos for help.
Thanks for all you do.
Keep in mind, the TCS kit these days only uses my throttle pedal and axle carrier so there may be some differences during the install.
@FrankensteinMotorworks it includes your cast Headers as well. Not sure if it includes the ECU with your mods, Hope it does though.
@@paimei7988 Sorry, you're right i forgot about the fact that he does still use the headers. Send me an e-mail and we can discuss the details there. Marc@FrankensteinMotorworks.com
If this video has taught me anything, it's that I need to...
... invest in an induction coil.
*lol* nice :)
and yeah, that inductive heater is amazing. I used to love my Oxy-Acetylene torch for loosening bolts but i hated how much stuff it set on fire. This avoids all of the downsides.
The brand i have is the mini-ductor and it works great but i have no reason to believe any others work any differently.
Very good work Marc, these are great clips to watch. Even though we work on different cars. also of stuff and methods are the same!
Oh man this video series is going to save my life. Going to start my swap soon!
More people should do this swap. Thanks for showing all of this information about it.
cant wait to see you turbo this thing. now seems to be the time a bunch of people want a v6 sw20. subbed easy, keep up the fantastic content!
Yeah, I've had these parts for sale for 11 years but you're right that it's just taking off. 2019 was a huge turn for the MR2 2gr-fe v6 swaps. And yeah, the turbo should be fun :)
This is great, your helping the mr2 community in a very fantastic way. Your videos is helping me to want a v6 installed this summer. Keep up the good work my friend.
Loved it thanks so much for all you are doing for the mr2 community
Even though I don't own a mr2 but I love your videos on the 2gr-fe builds. Apart from the crappy cylinder lining design of the 2gr I strongly believe it does not have the due respect in the tuning world as it deserves hence probably why the aftermarket support is so weak. I did have my fare share of owning various 4 bangers and now I own a 08 sienna, yes, family man constraints. I plan to turbo it for a little fun in the future so I cannot wait for more videos of this build when you boost it. I have researched much on the ecu options and it doesn't leave very much room other than going stand alone to keep it safe in moderate boost levels. In the perfect world would be to configure the stock ecu to do some magic and keep everything else in my van happy. 😉 Thank you for these content; very insightful and rare on the TH-cam platform. Keep up the awesome work. Long live the 2grs!
I absolutely agree, the 2GR does not get the respect it deserves but that's honestly a fair statement across most of the Toyota line. They make some pretty nice drivetrains and other than the supra stuff it really just does not get the attention it should. I'm trying to make a small difference in that.
Also, technically the sienna did come with a 2.7L 1AR-FE option but it is very rare. It is also a pretty neat motor though.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks Much appreciated for putting such great materials out there. Any ideas on what type of aftermarket esm setup will work the best with a boosted sienna w/automatic transmission? I want to keep everything else happy and functional. Will a full stand alone work well along side the stock ecu. Intercepting and tricking type piggyback ecu is not a very smart option for obvious reasons.
Very nice videos. Very informative.
Hey man! You’re doing a great job. I’ve been contemplating buying one that’s been sitting for close to 20 years. Thanks for all the information! I’m slightly less determined to try and resurrect it now unfortunately but regardless I’m enjoying your build! Keep up the good work!
Logan, just get under it first to see if it has a bunch of surface rust that will be problematic. Many MR2s leaked a ton of oil from the factory so they have a good anti-rust coating.
Frankenstein Motorworks for the advice! luckily it’s in GA and it doesn’t look too rusty at all. The only reason I’m considering it is because it was parked with 20k miles on it. I’d like to restore it and put a 3sgte or v6 in it, but want to make sure that it’s a doable project and I’m not just won over with the low miles.
@@stevethecarguy If it's a southern car there's a good chance it's good. If you want, go snap a bunch of pictures and send them to me and I'll be happy to give you my opinion. There are going to be some things that are in bad shape no matter what but until i see it, i'd expect a southern car sitting for 20 years to cost about $2k in additional costs over a car that is otherwise being used.
Your going to make my swap so much easier I thank you for knowledge
Looking forward for the next installment
Yeah, that's the one that i think a lot of people are looking forward to. I need to do some more thinking on how to best present it and handle all the variations but I'm really looking forward to getting it done :)
@@FrankensteinMotorworks keep doing what you have been so far the video's are coming out excellent.
Great video, this is extremely informative and helpful!
man these videos are really making me wish a nice rust free mr2 would pop up around here! (ive dealt with enough rust as of late.)
autotempest is actually a really good way to find good deals on cars like this if you spend a bit of time searching.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks i keep my eye open. kinda kick myself for not buying a 91 a woman tried selling when i had it come in the shop with a rod hanging out. co worker bought it before i could get the cash lined up and he sold it.. was a clean red one from Florida too. oh well another will come
@@001dman Yeah, these are rare but not ridiculously rare. But they are going up in value significantly so you may want to move sooner than later on that.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks shit.. now i own THIS car.
Thanks for the videos! My wiring is a mess, I can't wait for the next video.
Did you do it yourself or get it from a shop? I'm getting a lot of people in the last 12-18 months that have needed a ton of debugging on their 3rd party modified harnesses.
But either way, feel free to send me questions if the next video does not quite cover what you need.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks I did it myself, at the time I didn't know anybody doing the conversion harnesses. I replaced the MR2 engine bay fuse box with the Rav4 fuse box and with help from the Rav4 wiring diagram book, I got it all running with no codes, but it is a big rats nest. I'm considering buying Mr2 and Rav4 harnesses from a junkyard and having a harness made. I may need to repair my body harness where it feeds into the engine bay though.
@@DallasJ You got to no codes on an unmodified rav4 ECU? that's an accomplishment right there.
If you do swap it back, make sure you get the body harness from the right year and motor. toyota has so many differences in the MR2s between different years and engines.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks I should have said no "important" codes. I got the usual transmission, downstream O2, and evap codes. Could you tell me where the swap harnesses tie into the MR2? I'm assuming it's around the fuse box on the passenger side of the engine bay. Is that fuse box kept?
@@DallasJ Ahh, ok. that makes more sense. You should really consider upgrading to my tune and MAF pipe. It makes a bit more power across the entire RPM range but more importantly, you'll find the power delivery to be much more satisfying and you'll get a working check engine light.
The swap harness I will be discussing will not require any changes to the stock car wiring harness but we will need to steal connectors from the stock engine wiring harness. It'll connect to the car in five locations. Three in the engine bay fuse box (both connectors and the power post), the connector that goes to the stock ECU from the body harness and the connector that sits right below the stock ECU.
Love your stuff. Subscribed
Thank you, i really appreciate it!
maybe add a shot of the clutch and flywheel setup you used, and t hen mating the trans to the engine
The first video covers that: th-cam.com/video/oR7Ypw77EPg/w-d-xo.html go to about 4:45 into the video.
Nice.
You said you would prefer the AEM fuel pump, but it flows too much for the stock return line. What would need to be done to make that work? My aw11's gas tank was already pulled, and a lot of the fuel system is missing. I figure if I'm rebuilding it now, why not make it better for my 2gr swap
16:51 where could one source this nylon hose? And just to make sure, what size hose was that "Vapor Guard" being fitted onto the nylon one?
I'm hoping to run a hidden fuel pump kill switch at this point. Any tips on how I could go about it? Which wire to splice?
Thank you so much, in trying to get all the pieces to make this exact swap in my '96 sw20. The problem here in Spain is that i need some specialist that can handmade me all the exhaust pipes and the exhaust mainfold, because of the restrictions it needs to have the mufflers and all the anticontamination stuff.
Do you think that i can fit everything in the sw20 bay or i search for another engine model to swap?
Fitting the stock catalytic converters in the SW20 will require some tweaking but it can be done. The issue that comes up is they don't fit in 100% stock shape which makes it invalid for a California CARB legal build but as long as you only need the equipment but you don't need to match the stock equipment location you'll be perfectly fine.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks thats what i was asking. Yes the lines and the catalytic converters needs to be pass a test and be homologated but i dont need them to be the exact shape as the stock ones, thats why im searching for someone to make them.
Thank you man.
800$ for a 2GR-FE two years ago? I can only dream of these numbers here in Europe, Germany. Cheapest posted 2GR-FE posted here is ~2200€(only long block, no auxilaries) and usually they are around 3500-4000€ ^^
Many places in europe tax cars by displacement so it just does not make sense to put 3.5L engines in a bunch of cars because it raises the price by too much. In the USA, putting a 3.5L engine in a car just makes it more likely to sell so we had an absolute pile of these made over here.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks I dont think the engine volume and taxation is a problem in this regard. Yes, indeed, car do get taxed differently by their engine volume but I would say the "issue" is just that in most countries, French, Italian or German cars dominate the market way more than japanese cars do here in Europe. I can get VAG V6 or BMW inline-6 for almost nothing here in comparison to engines like the 2GR, a K-series(3.000-5.000€) or even the 2AR-FE(prices range from 1500-3000€ roughly)
Also, I just want to say a huge thank you to all the parts, documentation and videos you provide. I've commented on one of your other videos recently about the headers and Im still in the process of summarizing a big document for the inspectors here. All of your work helps hugely in this regard
@@astamith987 You're a lot closer to that market than i am so you're a lot more likely to be correct.
How hard you think it will be to get that 2gr-fe in a 93 Toyota Camry v6 se 5speed??
Sweet,
just out of curiosity, do you think it would be possibly to "shoehorn" one of these engines into a zze122r corolla? i know some engineering for the engine mounts will be the biggest setback, but my main question in more on the size and positioning of everything around this combination!
That's one of those things you really can't know until you try it. Most engine bays from the same class of cars from the same manufacturer are relatively similar dimensions but it's something like a shock tower being 3/8" further in at the wrong spot that ruins your day and i really have no way to know that for your car.
Feed me more lol jp. Awesome stuff
Thank you man, im watching this closely as I hope to do this to my 91 this summer hopefully, I do wanna keep AC in my car hopefully, does it it complicate it much?
The compressor bolts right no and you just need to add lines. it really does not add much complication. See this thread: www.mr2oc.com/threads/2gr-fe-a-c-solution.633066/
Toyota has a forza edition engine sick!!
Muy buen video espero que me puedan ayudar para mi proyecto del mr2 que vendra proximamente saludos
I'm happy to answer questions. Feel free to ask them here or send me an e-mail with your questions. Marc@frankensteinmotorworks.com
Walbro GSS 255 Fuel Pumps @2:00 min? and then later @10:00 Walbro GSS 341 called a 255?
The "Walbro 255" is what people call the Walbro GSS 341 because it nominally flows 255lph. I could have been more clear about that for people that haven't been in the MR2 scene for so long.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks you mentioned that there were other better pumps that are options. Do you have any recommendations for other pumps to consider
What y pipe is that
Can the 2GR-RX engine be used with your kit (in the UK ) apologies if this is a silly question
I assume you're talking about the 2008 RX350 that was sold in the UK. It's still a 2GR-FE engine and will work great for this swap.
so i believe it should be a 2GR-FXE engine, just wondered if this was covered in your mods etc , thank you for your time :) as these seem to be cheaper in the UK FE's are 2k and above :(
@@atdetail4900 the RX450 hybrid got the 2gr-fxe. the rx350 for the 2gr-fe. I've never tried using the 2gr-fxe, since it's still mounted transverse it's likely the same crankcase and bellhousing bolt pattern. I suspect the cams are different as well as the vvt-i actuators so it would probably confuse the stock 2gr-fe ECU if you plan on using my tuned ECU. If you're planning on going with an aftermarket ECU you can likely use it. A quick search for pictures shows that the motor mount would very likely fit
@@FrankensteinMotorworks thankyou :)
swear to god you sound slightly irish lol
I'm actually French Canadian but i've been living in the USA for two decades now so i'm not sure where Irish comes from but it certainly isn't insulting :)
young and in experience is no excuse to ruin a classic
Keep in mind, i bought this car about 10 years ago. it wasn't a classic back then. it was a cheap high schooler's first car back then.
What is that thing you're using at @9:08? :o