Hey man. Like many others here I have the same bike. I have been doing a little youtube research on how to do this and that and I now have a list of basic things to get through! Oil, coolant, brake and clutch fluids, spark plugs and air filters. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I never really push any of the youtube buttons but Sir! Take my well deserved like and subscribe!
Thank you very much for the feedback. I changed the crank on this bike so had thr opportunity to show most everything. I still have a handful of videos to finish for this bike but I got a little burnt out on them so I moved on to other things.
Man I have honda cbr I have problems with shift from 1 to second gear go neutral that happens only when the bike is warm up I got quickshifter healtech I try from the options menu to set up but still do that some time what do you think problems can be?
Is the inner cylinder basket where the plates sits on suppose to move freely when the plates and springs are on? Also, does any gears around the clutch affects the bike from turning on? I was only able to get the bike to prime.
The clutch center should not move freely when the pressure plate and springs are on. If it is then something has been put together wrong or the clutch is severely worn. Is yours slipping like you described? The clutch would be spinning at all times the motor is running or cranking. Was the engine removed? If so check the neutral switch.
@@The.Odyssey so I replaced clutch plates on my 03 cbr600rr, replaced battery, bike primed, and won't start. There's clicking from the starter solenoid which I replaced and same result. Not sure when to dig into next.
@LoRR2 with the clutch cover off the starter gear is on the top right side of the clutch basket. If memory serves correctly, there is a wave washer that usually gets stuck on the cover when you remove it. Perhaps this is out of place or the starter gear is bound up. If you need some 1 on 1 shoot an email with pictures to cryptosaulszee@gmail.com
I have 05 model... În neutral there is a knocking noise am not sour is from the clutch but deep inside so when I pull the clutch noise goes away... I changed the al clutch kit and the problem is still there... Clutch bearing looks fine... Please any advise? 🙏🙏 Thank you what you are doing!
Rebuilding a 08 engine CBR1000RR engine. Bike was down and the engine was left outside for over 3 months and got flooded with water and debris. After disabling the whole engine cleaning everything and putting it back together, it will not start. Apparently I have spark but it doesn't ignite. Put starting fluid and will not start. Sometimes will do something like if I somehow had a small ignition. I not sure if there is not a good or weak spark. Not sure if it is not time correctly as I have timed 2 times already. New fuel pump. I noticed that now the new pump doesn't prime with the kill switch on. But I should have some ignition while pouring ignition fluid on the throttle body while twisting the throttle (open). Please advise and check the videos. Thank you
@freddysaenzdastylist timing is everything, if you aren't sure you need to be. Did you use the service manual to reassemble and time the engine? Did the old fuel pump make noise? Recheck the connections and there should be a relay or controller for the pump.
@The.Odyssey old fuel pump does the sound of priming when turning kill switch ON (when was installed). New fuel pump does it only when connecting battery regardless kill switch ON or off. Everything fallowed as manual and your videos, it's just braking my head. Have spark, just not sure what else could be.
@@The.Odyssey tip over sensor is fine. My weird thing is that. While cranking the engine and pouring staring fluid on the throttle body (open) you will see it coming out of the exhaust and smell it. Does not ignite it. And check every one spark plug and it does spark. So I don't know what am I doing wrong
@@The.Odyssey tip over sensor check already. One of the weirdest things is. Assuming I am putting starting fluid while cranking engine inside throttle body (open) would at least start and turn off it doesn't. You can actually see the white mist and smell off the liquid come out of the exhaust but doesn't ignite it.
@wyattwooten5286 I believe by the book the answer is yes. I have tried many bikes both ways and haven't seen any issues. I prefer to put them in the same groove, but I really don't have a reason why other than I see no value the other way and I like to go against engineers when I can. Some may argue with me here and that's fine. I've been working on engines for over 20 years now, and I am confident in my statements made here. Honestly, I don't even remember which way I put this one together.
From memory I believe you will need to drop the pan. Check out my how its made video, should show me removing it I think... still haven't put the reassembly videos together of the bottom end.
So I literally have the same bike and my clutch hub nut won’t tighten past a certain point and there’s still threads left. I’ve checked to see if it seated on the oil pump and it did so I have no idea. Please help
No sir the nut doing go on enough for the lock metal to be punched down. There’s like at least 3 visible thread marks left and it won’t go any further.
@user-ut7rn3pf7w thanks for the feedback! I have a few more CBR videos to finish but I only bought the bike to rebuild the motor and sell it so that will be all unless I end up with another. I'm actually a Yamaha guy but at this point I own more Hondas lol. Always happy to help though and I've been working on bikes for 20+ years so I have the experience to back it up.
I have a 2007 honda cbr1000rr The clutch will not engage, I can see the friction plates opening when I pull the clutch in but it's still not engaging. The center clutch hub will not spin freely either if i put any amount of torque on it while the bike is in neutral. Coming from the diagram, All the washers are there. The guy I got the bike from stated his old mechanic rebuilt the entire bike and could never figure out the issue.
@zacharyhuckaby274 engage or disengage? If the bike wont move it is not engaging. It sounds like you aren't disengaging. There is a large washer that goes in there, make sure that's in the right position and everything is orientated in the right direction by looking for indicators on the parts diagram.
@zacharyhuckaby274 on the parts diagram # 9 & 10 plates can cause these issues if not installed correctly I believe you can see in the diagram that one is conical and the orientation that it should be in. Also, #17 washer can be confusing and may be in the wrong position. I believe either of these things could cause issues with the center locking to the basket.
@The.Odyssey sorry about the late response but my clutch isn't engaging. The center hub seems to be locking against the basket. Isn't it supposed to freespin in nuetral?
I've got an issue with my CBR in that it makes a weird rattle sounding between 2-4kRPM in all gears, only when driving/under load, doesn't happen on paddock stand or sat still reving in neutral. (Check my channel for vid of it). I've tried the following to fix the issue, still present. -Timing chain replaced -Valves checked all in spec -Oil pump chain replaced -New CCT, Tried manual cct recently going back to auto as I didn't really like the guess work when tensioning only way to know if its to tight or to loose is to visually inspect by taking covers off. -New cam chain guides also as these were beat up. Do you have any advice on what to check next? I was thinking maybe something to do with the clutch? Someone suggested to replace the bearing you show but not sure if this is the issue, I've been given many possible causes but now running out of options. I took my bike to two different shops, both said the noise was normal and that it cannot be fixed, one shop inspected the bike and stripped the engine to as little as they could with it in the frame, they couldn't find any issues. I don't believe this is normal but happy to be corrected. No power lost, bike pulls strong, had it dynoed 165 bhp to the wheels, above 5k RPM all sounds great.
Watched your videos. What octane fuel are you running? Too low octane could be causing the engine to predetonate which can sound like a knock or rattle. Other thought is exhaust header gaskets. I'm assuming you are talking about the clutch basket bearing, if the basket has some wobble that may cause it. Final thought is the backlash on the counterbalancer. It's located towards the front of the engine on the left side to adjust, the service manual explains how to adjust it. If you need the instructions let me know... but I feel like you would hear it all the time not just when under power if it were the counterbalancer.
@@The.Odyssey thanks for the reply mate. I've tried all different octane amounts, 95, 97 and 99 ron (99 is the max Ron we have available in the UK at the pump), didn't really make no difference. I've replaced the entire exhaust and gaskets, checked for leaks and couldn't find any. Do you know where I can find a service manual for 2006/2007 model? I've got a Haynes manual but it ain't the best would be good to get a factory one or instructions on how to check that would be good :) Cheers.
I've got an 09 1000RR, it makes a horrible high pitched screaming noise on engine overrun, if I'm stationary in 1st and let the clutch out slowly so it doesn't stall the scream goes away. heard it is a crank issue, dealership said its something to do with the clutch. any ideas? I've also subscribed :)) p.s I don't trust the dealer at all and if I can hit him with some facts I might be able to get him to fix that noise, because it sure as shit didn't come from the factory that way
So as I understand it, it makes the noise if you shut it off with the key but not if you stall it by letting the clutch out in 1st gear? Please confirm. This engine in my videos made a noise like this 1 time (then I pulled it apart, i had a spun rod bearing). Have you changed and inspected the oil? You can get an oil sample looked at and they can tell you what they find in it, that may help. Unfortunately that screech is probably a spun bearing. Personally i do not think it is a clutch problem but I'm diagnosing from my couch right now :) Thank you for subscribing!
No, actually I'm watching this video, because I wanna change the cam chain guide and or shoe. And you literally (like everyone else on the internet) skipped the only part I was interested in 😶😡🤬🤯😬🤬😡🤬😡🤢🤢🤮🤮🤯😬😩😢😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭
That's not part of the clutch so I would have to say no I didn't skip it. You may see it off because this was an entire tear down. It may be shown in the "how it's made" engine tear down video. I haven't finished the reassembly videos yet. If memory serves correct it is a torx bolt that holds the one guide, the other guide pulls out from the top and there is also a plastic guide on the inside of the head cover.
Hey man. Like many others here I have the same bike. I have been doing a little youtube research on how to do this and that and I now have a list of basic things to get through! Oil, coolant, brake and clutch fluids, spark plugs and air filters.
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I never really push any of the youtube buttons but Sir! Take my well deserved like and subscribe!
Thank you very much for the feedback. I changed the crank on this bike so had thr opportunity to show most everything. I still have a handful of videos to finish for this bike but I got a little burnt out on them so I moved on to other things.
keep up the great work! you are my go to tutorial for my CBR1000RR
Great to hear! If you haven't yet, please subscribe to help me on my journey
Thank you buddy could find a video that did center clutch as well as you explained it 🤘🏻
My push bolt in the center of the clutch wont go in all the way. Anyways tips?
Is it not sliding over the rod? If so try twisting it while pushing in.
Great tutorial videoes! Any tricks to get the Right Crank Cover back on? I'm struggling to get the two axles mating the cover...
Hi ,does your bike also have a pair system ?
Man I have honda cbr I have problems with shift from 1 to second gear go neutral that happens only when the bike is warm up I got quickshifter healtech I try from the options menu to set up but still do that some time what do you think problems can be?
Is the inner cylinder basket where the plates sits on suppose to move freely when the plates and springs are on? Also, does any gears around the clutch affects the bike from turning on? I was only able to get the bike to prime.
The clutch center should not move freely when the pressure plate and springs are on. If it is then something has been put together wrong or the clutch is severely worn. Is yours slipping like you described? The clutch would be spinning at all times the motor is running or cranking. Was the engine removed? If so check the neutral switch.
@@The.Odyssey so I replaced clutch plates on my 03 cbr600rr, replaced battery, bike primed, and won't start. There's clicking from the starter solenoid which I replaced and same result. Not sure when to dig into next.
@LoRR2 with the clutch cover off the starter gear is on the top right side of the clutch basket. If memory serves correctly, there is a wave washer that usually gets stuck on the cover when you remove it. Perhaps this is out of place or the starter gear is bound up. If you need some 1 on 1 shoot an email with pictures to cryptosaulszee@gmail.com
@@The.Odyssey I was able to start the bike due to putting in the 2 washers in position.
@@importtou2 awesome news
I have 05 model... În neutral there is a knocking noise am not sour is from the clutch but deep inside so when I pull the clutch noise goes away... I changed the al clutch kit and the problem is still there... Clutch bearing looks fine... Please any advise? 🙏🙏 Thank you what you are doing!
This 07 did the same and others have said the same thing. I think it's normal
Rebuilding a 08 engine CBR1000RR engine. Bike was down and the engine was left outside for over 3 months and got flooded with water and debris. After disabling the whole engine cleaning everything and putting it back together, it will not start. Apparently I have spark but it doesn't ignite. Put starting fluid and will not start. Sometimes will do something like if I somehow had a small ignition. I not sure if there is not a good or weak spark. Not sure if it is not time correctly as I have timed 2 times already. New fuel pump. I noticed that now the new pump doesn't prime with the kill switch on. But I should have some ignition while pouring ignition fluid on the throttle body while twisting the throttle (open). Please advise and check the videos. Thank you
@freddysaenzdastylist timing is everything, if you aren't sure you need to be. Did you use the service manual to reassemble and time the engine? Did the old fuel pump make noise? Recheck the connections and there should be a relay or controller for the pump.
@The.Odyssey old fuel pump does the sound of priming when turning kill switch ON (when was installed). New fuel pump does it only when connecting battery regardless kill switch ON or off. Everything fallowed as manual and your videos, it's just braking my head. Have spark, just not sure what else could be.
How about the tip sensor? I'm not sure how to test it, but maybe look into that?
@@The.Odyssey tip over sensor is fine. My weird thing is that. While cranking the engine and pouring staring fluid on the throttle body (open) you will see it coming out of the exhaust and smell it. Does not ignite it. And check every one spark plug and it does spark. So I don't know what am I doing wrong
@@The.Odyssey tip over sensor check already. One of the weirdest things is. Assuming I am putting starting fluid while cranking engine inside throttle body (open) would at least start and turn off it doesn't. You can actually see the white mist and smell off the liquid come out of the exhaust but doesn't ignite it.
Is the last fiber plate supposed to be offset from all of the others?
@wyattwooten5286 I believe by the book the answer is yes. I have tried many bikes both ways and haven't seen any issues. I prefer to put them in the same groove, but I really don't have a reason why other than I see no value the other way and I like to go against engineers when I can. Some may argue with me here and that's fine. I've been working on engines for over 20 years now, and I am confident in my statements made here. Honestly, I don't even remember which way I put this one together.
@@The.Odyssey awesome. I appreciate the info! This video helped me a lot in replacing my outer clutch basket
On this model ( sc57 )
I can change the oil pump on clutch side only?
From memory I believe you will need to drop the pan. Check out my how its made video, should show me removing it I think... still haven't put the reassembly videos together of the bottom end.
When you said just like that 94 foot pounds I almost pissed my pants 😂😂 no wrench just raw torque 😂
What do you soak the plates in ?
Engine oil
So I literally have the same bike and my clutch hub nut won’t tighten past a certain point and there’s still threads left. I’ve checked to see if it seated on the oil pump and it did so I have no idea. Please help
Probably missing a big washer. Look up a parts diagram of the clutch and see that you have all the parts.
I have all the parts thrust washers and all even the lock washer no it just won’t thread all the way on
@@josephrivera4971 I believe the nut on this gets prick punched to lock it if i remember correctly. Is that what is stopping you?
No sir the nut doing go on enough for the lock metal to be punched down. There’s like at least 3 visible thread marks left and it won’t go any further.
@@josephrivera4971 must be damaged threads then. See any issues on the shaft or the nut?
did you have to drain the oil before you did this
This can be done without draining the oil. If changing your plates you should soak the fiber plates in oil before installing.
Follow up though... If you are replacing a burnt up clutch I would change the oil.
@@The.Odyssey i changed the oil when i first got her before i knew how bad the problem was, but i’ll do it again while doing plates just to be safe
also 04 cbr1000 is my favorite bike i’ve had three, your channel is always a great reference. thanks
@user-ut7rn3pf7w thanks for the feedback! I have a few more CBR videos to finish but I only bought the bike to rebuild the motor and sell it so that will be all unless I end up with another. I'm actually a Yamaha guy but at this point I own more Hondas lol. Always happy to help though and I've been working on bikes for 20+ years so I have the experience to back it up.
I’m having trouble getting the cover back on. Any tips?
It's probably hitting that starter gear shaft. Loop a piece of string or fishing line around it so you can manipulate it into place.
thank you berry much yours video help me a lot a have same bike same color
Thank you for watching!
How many km/miles did the bike had when u did this job? Thanks
I believe it was 15000 miles if I remember correct
I have a 2007 honda cbr1000rr The clutch will not engage, I can see the friction plates opening when I pull the clutch in but it's still not engaging. The center clutch hub will not spin freely either if i put any amount of torque on it while the bike is in neutral. Coming from the diagram, All the washers are there. The guy I got the bike from stated his old mechanic rebuilt the entire bike and could never figure out the issue.
@zacharyhuckaby274 engage or disengage? If the bike wont move it is not engaging. It sounds like you aren't disengaging. There is a large washer that goes in there, make sure that's in the right position and everything is orientated in the right direction by looking for indicators on the parts diagram.
@zacharyhuckaby274 on the parts diagram # 9 & 10 plates can cause these issues if not installed correctly I believe you can see in the diagram that one is conical and the orientation that it should be in. Also, #17 washer can be confusing and may be in the wrong position. I believe either of these things could cause issues with the center locking to the basket.
@The.Odyssey sorry about the late response but my clutch isn't engaging. The center hub seems to be locking against the basket. Isn't it supposed to freespin in nuetral?
I've got an issue with my CBR in that it makes a weird rattle sounding between 2-4kRPM in all gears, only when driving/under load, doesn't happen on paddock stand or sat still reving in neutral. (Check my channel for vid of it). I've tried the following to fix the issue, still present.
-Timing chain replaced
-Valves checked all in spec
-Oil pump chain replaced
-New CCT, Tried manual cct recently going back to auto as I didn't really like the guess work when tensioning only way to know if its to tight or to loose is to visually inspect by taking covers off.
-New cam chain guides also as these were beat up.
Do you have any advice on what to check next? I was thinking maybe something to do with the clutch? Someone suggested to replace the bearing you show but not sure if this is the issue, I've been given many possible causes but now running out of options. I took my bike to two different shops, both said the noise was normal and that it cannot be fixed, one shop inspected the bike and stripped the engine to as little as they could with it in the frame, they couldn't find any issues. I don't believe this is normal but happy to be corrected. No power lost, bike pulls strong, had it dynoed 165 bhp to the wheels, above 5k RPM all sounds great.
Watched your videos. What octane fuel are you running? Too low octane could be causing the engine to predetonate which can sound like a knock or rattle. Other thought is exhaust header gaskets. I'm assuming you are talking about the clutch basket bearing, if the basket has some wobble that may cause it. Final thought is the backlash on the counterbalancer. It's located towards the front of the engine on the left side to adjust, the service manual explains how to adjust it. If you need the instructions let me know... but I feel like you would hear it all the time not just when under power if it were the counterbalancer.
@@The.Odyssey thanks for the reply mate. I've tried all different octane amounts, 95, 97 and 99 ron (99 is the max Ron we have available in the UK at the pump), didn't really make no difference. I've replaced the entire exhaust and gaskets, checked for leaks and couldn't find any.
Do you know where I can find a service manual for 2006/2007 model? I've got a Haynes manual but it ain't the best would be good to get a factory one or instructions on how to check that would be good :)
Cheers.
Thank you for the guidance
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
I've got an 09 1000RR, it makes a horrible high pitched screaming noise on engine overrun, if I'm stationary in 1st and let the clutch out slowly so it doesn't stall the scream goes away. heard it is a crank issue, dealership said its something to do with the clutch. any ideas? I've also subscribed :))
p.s I don't trust the dealer at all and if I can hit him with some facts I might be able to get him to fix that noise, because it sure as shit didn't come from the factory that way
So as I understand it, it makes the noise if you shut it off with the key but not if you stall it by letting the clutch out in 1st gear? Please confirm. This engine in my videos made a noise like this 1 time (then I pulled it apart, i had a spun rod bearing). Have you changed and inspected the oil? You can get an oil sample looked at and they can tell you what they find in it, that may help. Unfortunately that screech is probably a spun bearing. Personally i do not think it is a clutch problem but I'm diagnosing from my couch right now :) Thank you for subscribing!
I need cbr600 head gaskit
Water body can any 1 help
I generally use partzilla for OEM parts or my local bike shop. You can look the parts up online through partzilla
Thank you
Здравствуйте у меня 125куб мототцикл если включить передачу 1-2-3-4 то появляется шум и вибрирует
I wish my 2019 1000RR had the sight glass. I have the dipstick, that’s my only complaint of the 2019 I have. My 2009 had a sight.
I have a hole saw kit if you want to make a video with me :)
"Nailed It!!" \m/
I like your 94foot lbs toque.. lol
Thanks, it's a super scientific process. Follow me for more tips.
You are suppose to offset the last fiber plate!
Doesn't matter, change my mind
@@The.Odysseyyour mind doesn’t matter, service manual says so on pretty much all Japanese wet clutches. Good on ya for making a helpful vid though.
Anybody’s clutch basket get caught and can’t get it it
No, actually I'm watching this video, because I wanna change the cam chain guide and or shoe. And you literally (like everyone else on the internet) skipped the only part I was interested in 😶😡🤬🤯😬🤬😡🤬😡🤢🤢🤮🤮🤯😬😩😢😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭
That's not part of the clutch so I would have to say no I didn't skip it. You may see it off because this was an entire tear down. It may be shown in the "how it's made" engine tear down video. I haven't finished the reassembly videos yet. If memory serves correct it is a torx bolt that holds the one guide, the other guide pulls out from the top and there is also a plastic guide on the inside of the head cover.
th-cam.com/video/REsrGg2Vf8w/w-d-xo.html I'm pulling the guides there around 9 minutes in.