I know this was filmed a long time ago now, but heck man, don't fault the hydraulic crimp for having difficulty with handling it. All you need is someway to secure the cable; either a clamp or vice, or a second person to hold the cable while you crimp with both hands. AND I gotta say working over top of exposed battery terminals with metal tools and bare wires is just asking for trouble.
Those appear to be the Anderson Power Pole style connectors. During one point in the video I saw an off brand name imprinted into the plastic housing, no matter the manufacturer..... they are a superb DC connector. I'm sure if the quality of that particular manufacturer's product satisfied, you'll be replacing a lot more than just the main terminal ends in the future. I use them for every 12-volt DC connection I touch not only limited to battery terminals but Chargers, load testers, trolling motor, charge controllers, block heaters, etc. They come in 3 different sizes that are used with a single ratcheting hand crimper but go up to very large sizes as in your case. No, I'm in any way associated with the company, but I do appreciate a quality product and like to help others the same as you've helped me. I appreciate your time reviewing the crimping tools, I can now make an informed purchase! Don't thank me for watching..... Thank you for producing!
I've used those disconnects for the winch on my truck. Easy enough to install, makes placement/removal so much easier. Definitely need a good crimper. But I'll thumbs up the connectors. Very useful. 👍
@@57bagre u should have had tested the size and such b4 making a video and you could place the thing your going to crimp in the crimper but with very little pressure to hold the peice them crimp it I think you should have cut a little more wire off to get crimped better imo
(#4 Die for 12 AWG), (#6 for 10 AWG), (#8 for 10 to 8 AWG), (#10 for 8 AWG), (#16 for 6 AWG), (#25 for 4 AWG), (#35 for 2 AWG), (#50 for 0 AWG), (#70 for 2/0 AWG)
Hi Gordon, nice video. Next time you show us to first take a pair of metal wire cutters...or any cutters for that matter and slice right into a positive battery wire with the negative still connected to the battery...pfft, com'on man. I was waiting for your battery to explode or your hand/arm to get electrofiederfied. Not cool Gordon. Some schmuck may just do it with the battery still 100% connected to a vehicle. I'm sure it won't be the first time. Anyway, back to the crimper/die number thingy. If you do purchase one of those [10T, 20T, etc.] hydraulic crimper thingy like i did, the number(s) on the dies [can] mean something else. Durr. I will explain. Durr. The AWG is the first number i will use in the example a few sentences from this one. The second number is the [exact] corresponding mm squared that the AWG is equal to (yes, in RL). Here is the AWG, an equal sign, and then the corresponding/correct mm squared number the AWG is married to, you can say that...pretty much. Durr: (5-6 AWG = 16 mm squared), (4 = 25), (2 = 35), (1 = 50), (1/0 = 70), (3/0 = 95), (4/0 = 120). Crimp away! :)
13:12 the lug is oversized... the strands should occupy almost all of the space inside the lug. The number of the lug is the cross sectional area of the cable (wire only, minnus the insulator/armor).
The numbers on the dies may be the wire size in square millimeter. You can search the internet for a good conversion chart between awg and square mm. The problem is, most of them don't "Line up." I worked for a Japanese company that used only square mm wire size - took me a while to get used to it and become familiar with them.
I don't worry about the numbers on those dies, I just grab what looks good and go with it, I can always try again if I don't get it right the 1st time.
There’s probably a paper with the tool telling you the proper size for each wire. Some people just don’t care for instructions. Would’ve been easier to get the right dies in the first place instead of failing first try and crimping with a smaller die the second time.
Thanx for showing us how both kinds of tools crimp. I wanted to see them in action and now I know which kind to buy. Also thanx for showing us the parts you used. Great video! About keeping your batteries charged: Why not use a Battery Tender like NoCo?
ok, 2 minutes in, i am here for the tool review. However the quick connect thing you are doing is what i did for all of the same reasons. I would suggest (as i did) that you solder the cables in so if you decommission the tool or need to re purpose the end its not damaged, and can be reused. Also no possibility of in cable corrosion a year down the road.
You need to use the right size crimp to the lug 50mm lug use 50 mm crimp they are pre set to crimp with the right pressure if you use the wrong size for the lug it will have either not enough pressure so it won't hold or to much pressure and break your tool its not a guessing game its the metric system 99 % of the world use it you also need to use the right size lug for the cable you are putting in it
"Quick disconnect " are Anderson type plugs. I had to watch this several time to work out what you were trying to do. Obviously made by someone who did not read the instructions for the crimping tool,,,,,
So just what do the instructions say? You seem to know. I did not abuse the tool, it couldn't handle the heavy lugs so it broke and I bought the heavier tool and finished the job just fine.
@@57bagre you kept pumping after jaws were seated against each, once they touch it's a solid unit the only thing left to give is the c, hence the damage caused to first tool by improper use.
You are supposed to leave part of the insulation that is the red rubber material to go into the terminal when you are striping and crimping so that not strands of the wire will be shown.
That blue handle set of crimpers is a lot better than that cheaper pair - but from the same company - sending the 1st set of crimpers back I would think - good job - that cable cutters surprised me quite a bit - my thoughts
I got burned every time I bought Chinese tools. When I took them back to Home Depot or Lowe’s for the ‘lifetime warranty’ replacement, I realized I was just getting another tool I knew was low quality tool that would let me down again in the same way. - I now pay extra to get a tool I need that’s made in the US or Germany. They’ll still be working reliably for my kids when I’m gone.
Oh yeah mine just open the box and it was all sticky around the head of it so hopefully it wasn't returned and somebody blew the seal. I have not used mine yet. Tomorrow maybe.
I know this is a very old Video on how to NOT properly put Lugs on a Cable. The Connector Bodies are Color Coded and will only Mate to another Body of the Same color unless You modify them . Mike M.
I'm sure that "C" style crimper works just fine on lighter cable ends, just couldn't handle the heavy ones for the battery cables. That's why I ended up getting the 16 ton one and it did the job.
It's a very strong hydraulic you're supposed to stop squeezing as soon as the two corners touch don't over squeeze it will easily Bend and it is. Design like that it's an 8 to 10 tons of force. I was given heads up. And have not used it yet maybe tomorrow. I bought a long time ago.
👎 If you are not familiar with cable cross-sections in mm², then you should order this crimping pliers with inserts in AWG and especially not squeeze so that the inserts break!
This is a repeat if you used the right lug on the right size cables and the right anvil there wouldn’t be a problem you are the problem get another hobby maybe you should read the instruction manual
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
SImply put the lug into the crimper first, pump until it holds the lug, then insert the cable into the lug and pump away..
thank youuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu
@@Holy-Quran-Y also you can clamp the tool in a vise to hold it.
I know this was filmed a long time ago now, but heck man, don't fault the hydraulic crimp for having difficulty with handling it. All you need is someway to secure the cable; either a clamp or vice, or a second person to hold the cable while you crimp with both hands. AND I gotta say working over top of exposed battery terminals with metal tools and bare wires is just asking for trouble.
Excessive pressure, i saw you continue to pump it once it totally down
Those appear to be the Anderson Power Pole style connectors.
During one point in the video I saw an off brand name imprinted into the plastic housing, no matter the manufacturer..... they are a superb DC connector.
I'm sure if the quality of that particular manufacturer's product satisfied, you'll be replacing a lot more than just the main terminal ends in the future. I use them for every 12-volt DC connection I touch not only limited to battery terminals but Chargers, load testers, trolling motor, charge controllers, block heaters, etc. They come in 3 different sizes that are used with a single ratcheting hand crimper but go up to very large sizes as in your case. No, I'm in any way associated with the company, but I do appreciate a quality product and like to help others the same as you've helped me.
I appreciate your time reviewing the crimping tools, I can now make an informed purchase!
Don't thank me for watching..... Thank you for producing!
we are manufacturer and exporter from China,contact me on WhatsApp +86 13586172110
I've used those disconnects for the winch on my truck. Easy enough to install, makes placement/removal so much easier. Definitely need a good crimper. But I'll thumbs up the connectors. Very useful. 👍
The part 2 has the crimper that did the job, I don't know if you saw that one. Thanks for watching Pete.
@@57bagre u should have had tested the size and such b4 making a video and you could place the thing your going to crimp in the crimper but with very little pressure to hold the peice them crimp it I think you should have cut a little more wire off to get crimped better imo
(#4 Die for 12 AWG), (#6 for 10 AWG), (#8 for 10 to 8 AWG), (#10 for 8 AWG), (#16 for 6 AWG), (#25 for 4 AWG), (#35 for 2 AWG), (#50 for 0 AWG), (#70 for 2/0 AWG)
thank you very much for the break down of the die
Thanks I wish I would have noticed that before I text
Hi Gordon, nice video. Next time you show us to first take a pair of metal wire cutters...or any cutters for that matter and slice right into a positive battery wire with the negative still connected to the battery...pfft, com'on man. I was waiting for your battery to explode or your hand/arm to get electrofiederfied. Not cool Gordon. Some schmuck may just do it with the battery still 100% connected to a vehicle. I'm sure it won't be the first time. Anyway, back to the crimper/die number thingy. If you do purchase one of those [10T, 20T, etc.] hydraulic crimper thingy like i did, the number(s) on the dies [can] mean something else. Durr. I will explain. Durr. The AWG is the first number i will use in the example a few sentences from this one. The second number is the [exact] corresponding mm squared that the AWG is equal to (yes, in RL). Here is the AWG, an equal sign, and then the corresponding/correct mm squared number the AWG is married to, you can say that...pretty much. Durr: (5-6 AWG = 16 mm squared), (4 = 25), (2 = 35), (1 = 50), (1/0 = 70), (3/0 = 95), (4/0 = 120). Crimp away! :)
Bookem Dano
13:12 the lug is oversized... the strands should occupy almost all of the space inside the lug.
The number of the lug is the cross sectional area of the cable (wire only, minnus the insulator/armor).
Always disconnect negative first before working on any vehicle and they're called ring terminals by the way good video
The numbers on the dies may be the wire size in square millimeter. You can search the internet for a good conversion chart between awg and square mm. The problem is, most of them don't "Line up." I worked for a Japanese company that used only square mm wire size - took me a while to get used to it and become familiar with them.
I don't worry about the numbers on those dies, I just grab what looks good and go with it, I can always try again if I don't get it right the 1st time.
That is correct the die number is the wire mm a true 1:0 is 35 mm
There’s probably a paper with the tool telling you the proper size for each wire. Some people just don’t care for instructions. Would’ve been easier to get the right dies in the first place instead of failing first try and crimping with a smaller die the second time.
I think you got the left-handed model. You should have ordered the right-handed model.
Thanx for showing us how both kinds of tools crimp. I wanted to see them in action and now I know which kind to buy. Also thanx for showing us the parts you used. Great video! About keeping your batteries charged: Why not use a Battery Tender like NoCo?
ok, 2 minutes in, i am here for the tool review. However the quick connect thing you are doing is what i did for all of the same reasons. I would suggest (as i did) that you solder the cables in so if you decommission the tool or need to re purpose the end its not damaged, and can be reused. Also no possibility of in cable corrosion a year down the road.
Give it some welly Jim, you're doing a great job, I am still smiling, practice makes perfect, you should be on national Television and charge a fee
I was reading once the lugs are touching you quit pumping or else you’ll blow the seal out
Or crack the tool!!
Ya shoudnt use the bolt terminals on a battery for starting they are for accessories only.
your remind me of my grandfather he's cool loves to teaching me everything in his shop. his voice sounds a Texan like you
your voice is great, really reminds me of Johnny Cash
You need to use the right size crimp to the lug 50mm lug use 50 mm crimp they are pre set to crimp with the right pressure if you use the wrong size for the lug it will have either not enough pressure so it won't hold or to much pressure and break your tool its not a guessing game its the metric system 99 % of the world use it you also need to use the right size lug for the cable you are putting in it
Great video, thank you for sharing!
Drill a small hole on the bottom of the handle put a bolt,rod, or cotter pin and loop a heavy duty rub er band on that will open the handle
"Quick disconnect " are Anderson type plugs. I had to watch this several time to work out what you were trying to do. Obviously made by someone who did not read the instructions for the crimping tool,,,,,
So just what do the instructions say? You seem to know. I did not abuse the tool, it couldn't handle the heavy lugs so it broke and I bought the heavier tool and finished the job just fine.
i totally agree with you .
@@57bagre you kept pumping after jaws were seated against each, once they touch it's a solid unit the only thing left to give is the c, hence the damage caused to first tool by improper use.
You are supposed to leave part of the insulation that is the red rubber material to go into the terminal when you are striping and crimping so that not strands of the wire will be shown.
the numbers are metric mm2, you need to converte to awg!
When in doubt go the old skool way solder and a torch
where did you buy the seals?
I think you're enjoying this new tool, ( that's what 10 ton dose)
I need one and the blue handle one looks good to me
That blue handle set of crimpers is a lot better than that cheaper pair - but from the same company - sending the 1st set of crimpers back I would think - good job - that cable cutters surprised me quite a bit - my thoughts
Amazon refunded my $ and told me not to send it back. I don't know what I'll do with it, just keep it for now.
Maybe you could fix it somehow ????
I got burned every time I bought Chinese tools. When I took them back to Home Depot or Lowe’s for the ‘lifetime warranty’ replacement, I realized I was just getting another tool I knew was low quality tool that would let me down again in the same way.
- I now pay extra to get a tool I need that’s made in the US or Germany. They’ll still be working reliably for my kids when I’m gone.
I like that second one, you're showing, but some jobs you need to use the C shape kind.
Oh yeah mine just open the box and it was all sticky around the head of it so hopefully it wasn't returned and somebody blew the seal. I have not used mine yet. Tomorrow maybe.
Skip the first 8 minutes and get to it already! And didn't even get to see the crimp when you were done at 10:14
I'm going to buy one of these but... once the dies touch I'm going to stop pumping it.
You used the wrong dice and kept pumping. Operator error.
I know this is a very old Video on how to NOT properly put Lugs on a Cable.
The Connector Bodies are Color Coded and will only Mate to another Body of the Same color unless You modify them .
Mike M.
YOUR really good with the cutters
Thanks. I almost bought a crimper Yok-70.
What crimper did you end up buying?
I'm sure that "C" style crimper works just fine on lighter cable ends, just couldn't handle the heavy ones for the battery cables. That's why I ended up getting the 16 ton one and it did the job.
"That's not going to go in far enough to satisfy me"-that's what she said. Great video though!
I always heat shrink the lugs.
material list would of been nice.
Hmm, so they’re knocking off Anderson Power Poles now.
Get your images in frame i do it myself that is why i reshoot . the video is fine if i could see what your doing.
why not solder the ends on
Hi Gordon, how is it going? Four new tools It's pretty good!
3 tools, one is broken. Thanks for watching.
we are manufacturer and exporter from China,contact me on WhatsApp +86 13586172110
A little shrink tubing would finish it off nice.
Yeah but not for my old junk if it's not necessary. Thanks for watching.
Love your voice. You sound like Ward Burton.
Wish I'd seen this video before buying the b£&%£"%ing yellow c shaped crimper!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
CHEERS.
Gordon love your voice, you sound like John Wayne
Someone else said I sound like Johnny Cash, I didn't know I could sound like John Wayne.
Gordon Robertson you sound like a young John Wayne..lol
It's a very strong hydraulic you're supposed to stop squeezing as soon as the two corners touch don't over squeeze it will easily Bend and it is. Design like that it's an 8 to 10 tons of force. I was given heads up. And have not used it yet maybe tomorrow. I bought a long time ago.
What part of the USA are those tools made in Gordon ? lol
I'm not sure there are any tools made in the USA anymore. These are Chinese.
Cant see the results 😑😑
I use my bolt cutters to cut the wires, tomorrow maybe I'll get use the hydraulic tool
5:48....that's what she said!
And she said it with that exact same voice too.
👎 If you are not familiar with cable cross-sections in mm², then you should order this crimping pliers with inserts in AWG and especially not squeeze so that the inserts break!
Good idea buying that many batteries could break you.
Thanks Eric.
God bless
Thanks.
That a Boy Gordon.
Not much of a tutorial video.
Well, try for some better camera work.
not his best day
You could and should have got your money and returned the tool that broke
Gonzalez Larry Smith Karen Johnson Michelle
Garcia Helen Allen Jeffrey Gonzalez Jeffrey
Did you get a refund?
Full refund and they told me not to send it back. (Amazon)
Ho you can't do ti don't do it
it's so annoying.
This is a repeat if you used the right lug on the right size cables and the right anvil there wouldn’t be a problem you are the problem get another hobby maybe you should read the instruction manual