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Stress free RESIN SWIRL epoxy cutlap surfboard HD 1080p
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 พ.ค. 2021
- EPOXY RESIN SWIRL SURFBOARD. Some helpful tricks and techniques used to do a stress free DIY epoxy resin swirl surfboard. If you have ever wanted to attempt a cut lap on an epoxy surfboard then this video will help you with some little tricks I've learnt over the years.
so many good tips! this video is magic.
Nice job it looks great! Enjoyed the video, good to have a bit of humour as well as education!!! Would be keen to see a video on your pinline technique in the future.
Great seeing someone else’s techniques thanks for sharing 🤟🏻
Thanks for watching 🤙
Good fun and learned some stuff. Thanks.
Thanks mate 🤙
Defo one of the best and most professional videos on here, can't wait to see more of your awesome work mate 🤙
Awesome stuff as always. Nice information about sanding at the cutlap first before removing the tape ( as well as heaps of other stuff) , I wish I watched this one a day earlier for the nose repair I did on my board (Epoxy). Now I know for next time. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for watching Ian. I appreciate it 🤙
I love the blooper reels!!!! Great content mate cheers!!
Thanks mate 🤙
Good video and awesome board.
Thanks mate.
Love the videos mate
Cheers mate 🍻
Mate this is awesome
Thanks mate 🤙
Great vid mate ! Learnt a few things. Would love to see a detailed one on sanding epoxy. Not much out there all using PE. Thanks 🙏
Thanks mate 🤙 I didn’t film the sanding on this one as I thought it wasn’t that interesting. I do have another epoxy build in the pipe line so I’ll make sure I film it.
Que buena técnica 😊
Nice work :).
Thank you 🤙
EPIC!
great vids,thanks. do you know how to do the peel off before set type deck grip to stop any need for wax.? my mal has this.
More than a great job Dude! I am doing some backyard boards always using bio-poxy (sei whale from rconcept) but I've learned another good things from you today - awesome! There is always something to learn haha. Did you know that you can reuse poxy when it seems to be like jelly from the cold? Just heat it up in a hot waterbath and it's useable like new. Try that with poly 🤣
Kind regards from Germany 🤙
Yeh man always learning! Good tip 🤙
Excellent work as always. Love the videos. Would like to know if you have a general rule as to how much resin to mix per side for lam and coats, etc.? I find that I usually mix too little or way too much resin. You seem to always have just enough to do the task and was curious what your formula was for determining that amount.
Thanks mate. For the lam I’ll be honest I mostly just make an educated guess. Depending on board length and amount of glass. I always aim for too much resin rather than too little. I’d rather have couple bucks left over rather than stuff a board. For the fill coat I always just use a plastic cup that holds 400-450ml and that seems to be perfect for all but the bigger boards. For an exact formula table I am pretty sure green light surf supply has one online you can use. Yew! 🤙
Green light surf has a chart you can use and they give you all you need to know on your board length to resin ratio
Thanks for making these priceless videos! I'm about to glass a board with epoxy and wondering if you need to use any additives to make sanding resin? (I'm used to poly), or do you just sand the lam resin ?
Epoxy is able to be sanded without any additional additives. Although there are some that claim to make it easier to sand or help the fill coat with fish eyes etc:
Thanks for posting those videos, they're very informative. Can I ask about taping the hard edge, like you say you want to make a little dam. What prevents the "dam" part of the tape from touching the glass and sticking to it when you brush your hot coat on? Especially going from side to side, doesn't the brush push it onto the rail?
I’m not entirely sure I’m on the same level but I’ll try answer anyway.
The glass should be dry to the touch by now so the tape won’t stick to it. If you mean the resin over the tape and then hardening? That’s a possibility and if that happens you can sand away the tape when sanding the hard edge back in.
The tape also doesn’t stick to the resin hard edge resin when it’s wet or to the gelled stage but it will be stuck if you let the resin fully cure. So always best to pull the tape when the resin is gelled and green but not full cure
Hopefully I answered something there for ya mate 🤙
Did you just sanded on the cutlap or also used a blade to cut it? Seems like you didn't use a blade. Pretty decent cutlap, I liked it.
Hey, me again lol! Sorry, but I'm doing an epoxy resin for the first time and your tip to sand the cutlap, use a few relief cuts and it'll peel right off....SPOT ON MY FRIEND! I used that for trimming the hull lamination on the deck and it worked out AWESOMELY!
Question: will this work on trimming the deck lamination also? Not sure here cause the deck lam is bonding with the hull lam....and a little worried about sanding thru both the deck glass and also the hull glass...which wouldn't be good......
It’ll work both ways, you just need to be careful. Use an extra layer of tape ( so 2 layers ) and that’ll give you a nice high ridge line to sand and you should be all good.
Thanks so much for your videos! Do you seal the EPS foam before glassing? I’ve heard this is necessary for a resin tint but maybe not if it’s opaque?
Yeh if it wasn’t opaque you’d need to seal to get the consistent colour. Or a spray. With the clears or even this swirl I didn’t seal it as it’s so adhoc anyway that you can’t notice the slight change on colours.
Good tutuorial, was wondering if you use a tint or pigment with epoxy will it still discolour? like a clear epoxy will eventually go yellowish even if its not expose to UV. Cheers
I’m sure if you use a surfboard specific epoxy resin and tint it won’t dis-colour in a way you’re referring to. It may change colour tones eventually over time but I doubt it’d be significant enough to realise. 🤙
@@Shrednaught thanks mate!
great job !!
can you explain more about the paint technic, is it pigment mixed with the epoxy? if so , how did it not mixes completely into 1 color?
Yeh it is just surfboard specific pigment and epoxy. There is a few tricks to not middle the colours together. If you watch the glassing part of the video I think I show them all. If not in this video then definitely in my other resin swirl vids 🤙
👍🏼
I dont if its relavent to the new fin boxes, not the original FCS anyway, but in the old days with original style fin boxes we would put a 4 or 6 oz on the face of the box begore install which you can glass straight over. Youd do that by laying 4 or 6 oz cloth on a glass table, the fin slab table in those days, and laying the boxes face down on the laminate. Cut the exess glass off around the box and rough sand the face and insert them in the board and glass right over them. The last stage is after sanding or finish/gloss coat use a router with a guid st the bottpm the bit to cleanly rout out the box. Maybe you cant do it on the Futures if there is a screw im the side. Anyway i must be reminisci ng.
That sounds like a great idea. What were the fin boxes called you would use?
@@Shrednaught we only had one style of fin box in those days. I think theyre still around on single fin retro boards. The reason i used to do it was extra strength, not easy to year out the box with the laminate on top of it.
god build like to see your pin-lining please.....great tips
That’s an easy video mate. I’ll put it on the list 🤙
great will keep tuned...
Great video. I have a question regarding the removal of the tape for the cutlap. There seems to be a bit of tear out when you pulled the tape up, do you go back and fill that? Otherwise would using some heat reduce that issue when pulling the tape?
Eps always seems to have that tear out. That’s the nature of eps. You can fill them if they’re quite bad but I didn’t. If they’re only around single bead size I just fill with resin whilst laminating. Heat does release the glue on tape better but it can also cause the eps to outgas with the temp change.
@@Shrednaught thanks for the information! I didn’t think of the outgassing at all.
Awesome work....thank you Shrednaught for posting all these vids and being so diligent in replying and helping people out...quick question: do you use Additive F with the epoxy? Researching as I'm doing a board in the BioScience Epoxy resin and a lot of peeps recommend additive F....?
My pleasure 🤘
I’ve used the sanded.com version of additive F. It did help with the sanding coat. Less fisheyes/bubbles.
Just check with bioscience epoxy whether additive F is compatible with their resin. I’ve never used their resin so I can’t comment on this.
Also, I especially love the 'chaka bro' measurement for the hard edge taping....LOLOLOLOL....KEEP UP THE SHRED!!!
@@Shrednaught OMG! I'm an idiot! Its Resin Research Epoxy....so should be fine. I will def use the additive F as I need all the help I can get to make sure there aren't bubbles/fisheyes....still a kook shaper over here!! Thanks again mate
Great video , built a few wing boards but want to start being a little artistic! When do you use the posca paint ? Just before the hot coat ?
I only use posca after the hot coat and prior to a final clear acrylic coat. I have heard of people using under hot coats but it can have a tendency to run if kicked hot.
Do you have any tips on how to prevent the epoxy bleeding through when doing cutlaps? I am using the green 3M stuff, working on a clean board and pushing it down with a razor blade, but it still happens quite a lot. I heard it's harder due to the long hardening time of epoxy and its thinner consistency. But still, any ideas that might help?
Loving your videos! Many thanks for all the amazing content :) Greetings from Germany
Epoxy is a harder medium to work with than poly. I’m going to assume you’re using eps? Try your best to get the foam as flat/flush and with as little bead tear as possible. It sounds like you’re doing everything correctly but like you have mentioned epoxy can be thinner and takes longer to cure/kick. Also as epoxy starts to catalyse it’s produces heat ( exotherm ) and this can effect the tapes glue. Try your best to remove as much resin from the glass ( as practical ) where the tape is on the laps to try and help.
If all else fails just do a nice pinline to hide the bleed through.
Thanks for watching, appreciate it 🤙
@@Shrednaught I am using XPS, but I guess the same applies here with the bead tear. Many thanks for the detailed reply. Best shaping channel out there in my opinion!
Yew! Thanks. Any further help just hit me up 🤙
Love the board!!! What eps resin are you using/would recommend.
Thanks. I’m using keyline epoxy in this video. I would recommend.
Shred: Fantastic works of art. On your "Swirl" video, I believe you mentioned the board was ordered. Seriously, how do I place an order, including all the necessary details (design, size, colors, shipping to USA, etc.)? BTW, I do not do "Facebook." Is there another platform we may use to communicate, such as email? Many thanks.
Thanks mate.
Unfortunately I don’t ship over seas as the price is just too outrageous.
Best bet is to find a local shaper and have them reconstruct what you’re looking for.
🤙
Hey man, doo you have any success of cleaning your brushes off the epoxy after filler/gloss coats? I tried vinegar (which works great for cleaning squeegees, hands whatever), but I have bug struggles with cleaning my brushes - so I use cheap ones just one time (trying to make like 3 boards in one time to reduce waste). Thx for any tip. P.S. I just discovered your channel and thx for brilliant job! Good to see another board builder workflow and some tips etc, still heaps of things and knowledge to discover. Cheers, Milos / Apatyka surfboards, Czech Republic :)))
Thanks mate 🤙
Epoxy can be difficult to get outta brushes. I have heard that warm water and laundry powder works but I’ve never tried it. Maybe give that a try and let me know.
Yew!
@@Shrednaught Oh man, thx for fast reply:) well, will see:) If I will try that I will let ya know for sure:) So gonna stick with single use brushes until then! :)))
@@milospotuzak3251 yeh man that’s really all I do. Single use unfortunately
These are so epic! love the edits! I'll swap you a whole deer for a board?
Hahah not sure how you would get an alive deer over here mate 😏
@@Shrednaught West Oz is gonna be home real soon 😏 I'll deliver you your deer, might even throw in a goat for good measure
Yew! That’s sick. Come back to pillage my crays have ya
does epoxy fumes smell as bad as Poly? thanks
When you pull tape and foam beads off, what do you do? TY
You can fill with spack filler if you want. If they’re not huge I just fill when glassing.
Yo man, what did you do with the holes in styrofoam after rippin off the tape on the first layer
They look kinda bad but they weren’t that deep. I just filled them with resin whilst glassing and you can even notice them.
Never seen you do the polish step? What's the reason for that? I know it's time consuming but the finish is great
I don’t do polishing often. I do love the look but it’s hard to find the correct resin where I am.
hi mate what did you use for pin line?
Just posca pen
Hey mate can tint be mixed with the epoxy fill coat? I am asking because i would like to rejuvinate and make a yellowed board look cleaner but without a full colour just a light see through colour to hide the yellowing. Or do you have other tips for this?
Yeh mate tint can be mixed with the fill coat.
@@Shrednaught cool thank you 👍
Hi 👋🏼
I am going to shape my own surfboard (5'7 fish) and i just wanted to know something : how many epoxy resin do you use to make an entire surfboard ?
Thank you 🙏
I always tell people that it’s better to have more resin rather than less. You don’t want to ruin your board because you didn’t get an extra little bit of resin.
Not sure if your glassing skills but I’d say 3L would cover all laminations and also plug installs and filler coats
also, have you tried epoxy over polyurethane foam? does it work well?
I’ve done it a couple of times. Some people swear by it. The best of both worlds…
But it’s all down to personal preference.
Ok, last epoxy resin question...I swear! If you're doing resin pin line/s in epoxy how well do you have to sand the hotcoat? 80 grit, 120 grit....I am assuming the smoother the better, but maybe that's backwards...I'm such a newbie 😅
Good question. You need to leave enough grit in the resin for the pinline to hold too, but also don’t want the resin to bleed under the tape. I’d go with 120 and really push the tape down for the pinline
@@Shrednaught You are a scholar and A GENTLEMAN, my friend!! Muchas Gracias!!
Sweet board,! Looking to do similar glass job. Couldn't tell how you layered it exactly from cam. Did you slightly mix all 3 colors in your pan? Or drizzle them and use 1 main color? and what % of each color? And how do you wet it out good, but not to overwork and totally blend it.? Cheers for SD Cali
Thanks mate. Just pour into pan and didn’t mix them. You want to make sure you don’t muddle the colours around so work from the middle out and clean the squgee with each pull
@@Shrednaught cool man. What was your color proportions about?
You’ll have to work that out from your epoxy and tint supplier. Everyone is different depending. Most cases I just wing it but if you want to be certain it’ll be best to check with them.
@@Shrednaught I have pigments and tints at garage. Just wondering about what your amount of each was, mostly light blue? Thanks for replying 🤙
Yeh the dark colours you want to use less of. So with swirls if you’re using a colour set you also need to think of what colours they’ll make if combined. Green and orange make brown. So use colours in the same palette and you’ll generally get what you’re after. Darker colours always over power
entertaining
Thanks mate 🤙
how much resin do i need for a short board like that? considering the hot coat... thanks
It depends on your skill but for an average I would say 700-800 for lam and 400-450 for fill coat.
I would get 3L total to be safe. Always best to have more than less 🤙
I would like to learn about decals or transfers or whatever you call them. What if I want a big two foot logo. How would I go about getting that made and how would I apply it? Thanks dude!
You can get the logo printed up by a surfboard decal company. Surf decals aus are the people I use and they’re amazing and very affordable. Just send them the PDF of the art and they’ll send you the decal. As far as the process with applying it, it depends on the board. But for the most part it’s the same. Just gotta be more cautious with air getting trapped under it.
Any questions just let me know mate 🤙
@@Shrednaught Thanks mate! That helps!
@@Shrednaught Just finished up my first two surfboards last week! The decals came out fine except for being slightly crooked. I used band logos for those two. I really like that swirl. I might try going that route for my next board.
Good stuff mate! Keep at it and you’ll get them straight 🤣🍻
🙏🙏🙏🙏
سلتم من سادنده پدل برد هستم الان که رسیدم به فایبرگلاس لمشکل خوردم
الیافم روی کار نمچسبه لطفا کمکم کنید ممنون
With epoxy, even with the good tape, does it leave residue or have any bleed through after having to wait so long for curing? I also noticed when you pulled up the tape it seems like it ripped out some foam on the deck too. I doubt you encounter any of these problems with poly...
Yeh it can. But there is ways around it. You’re correct, my tape did pull some small beads up. I could of used a hair dryer/ heat gun lightly to warm the tape glue up. The thing with eps is that it’s so light you can fill these small voids with resin and it’s unnoticed. They then add a tether point into the foam IMO
Both eps/epoxy and poly/pu have their pros and cons and using either can be decided when thinking about the application ( wave ) wanted to be surfed.
Cheers for watching 🤙
@@Shrednaught thanks for the reply! I have yet to glass a board with epoxy and have limited experience using them in the water as most of my boards aren't very light. It is definitely a more environmentally conscious material to use for sure, and I would like to sink my teeth in and give it a try if I get around to needing a small wave shorty
Those “fun” style boards are perfect application for eps/epoxy. 👌
What kind of tape you are using?
The thin green one I mean.
The one I use is not strong enough…
3m green 233
How do you get the filler coat to not separate and fish eye? Whenever I try to use epoxy no matter how clean I am with gloves and cleaning the board it always separates ?
It does have a lot to do with epoxy brand used.
Have you tried giving the lam a light scuff with sand paper before filler? Some epoxy resin will require this. Especially after letting it cure to full
@@Shrednaught thanks mate appreciate it!
How long are you between lam and filler?
How are you 'cleaning'?
Depends on my schedule but usually next day. Ideally you’d throw the filler on as soon as it’s hard enough.
I don’t clean as a rule. I try to keep everything clean by using gloves and I just blow the dust off.
@@Shrednaught good to hear! I'm wondering though, how Luke is doing these two steps 🤔
What fin box system do you prefer? FCS II or Futures?
For my personal boards I have mostly glass ons. I initially did go with fcs2 as I could determine the cant for the specific board. But I do like futures as they have a larger selection of fins. For the most part I use whatever the customer wants.
I ask because I've lost fins with the FCS II system when I didn't use screws. Now that I use screws, I think it defeats the whole purpose of the system and the tight fit has caused me problems with cracks around the boxes when inserting or removing fins enough times. Do you think futures will give me better luck with less board repair? I only have one set of FCS II fins, so I don't have a lot money put into that system yet.
@@Carkshark yeh same. I’ve also lost fins. So now I always use a screw in the front. That way I won’t loose the fin but it’ll still pop out if it’s hit hard and not take the fin box out with it.
Im not sure about the tight fit? Are you using genuine fcs2 or an aftermarket fin? Maybe a light sand on the fin tab will help.
@@Shrednaught Started with a set of FCS II Medium performers in "Glass Flex" (plastic). I tried the single screw trick after the first time I lost the right fin, but a week and a half's worth of surfing later the damn right fin came out again. Each time I had one come out I recall turning right really sharp before dismounting. So, now I use two screws for all the fins. Didn't have any more fins come out so I got rid of those plastic medium fins and bought a set of FCS II Mick Fanning Large fins. Great fins, just don't like taking them out and messing up the glass around the boxes on my polyurethane board. By tight fit, I'm talking about the force needed to pop the fins in or out against the tab in the back half of the box.
@@Carkshark ah yeh I see. I guess grub screws are the only thing to prevent that. For popping the fins out I bought this leverage tool called “ fins out”.
It works amazing and was only about 15 bucks. You should check it out 🤙
What do you do the pin line with? Most permanent markers tend to bleed when you apply the hot coat.
I mostly use posca paint pens. As long as you use them on the sanded fill coat and make sure they’re completely dry they won’t bleed
Amber says.. Is that the guy from Margaret River...? She saw the magenta and recognised your voice.
Haha the room is a dead give away 🤌
What did you use for the pin line
Posca pen
oh my , i see 2:05, this little bastard tape, is taking of grains of the eps...how do you deal with this...please answer, you made such a perfect job shaping a baby butt surface and this ruins all your effort. what is the density of the foam you use.and how do you deal with this situation after it happens, do you glass bubble filling it again?
Unfortunately this is the norm for eps. The construction of the foam beads just allows easier tear out. You can sometimes mitigate it using a hair dryer or similar to warm the glue on the tape but in all honesty it looks worse than it is. It’s a very high density foam. If the tear out was significant I’d use a spack or a qcell mix but for this board I just glass as usual and fill with resin. The weight on eps is light enough that doing this doesn’t make the board feel too heavy.
Cheers 🤙
I use eps 200 and I have no problem of this kind.
No bead tear using the same method of allowing the epoxy resin to fully cure then sanding back the tape line?
That’s rad eps if so. 🤘