I have used a ac flyback ( ozone transformer high frequency one ) and got unbelievably 30000 volts 20 ma arcs by using a ne555 driver circuit with only 18 v 10 amp input and now with a voltage multiplier...i am getting nearly 1 million volts ... it was such a huge success to me ... After some time the voltage multiplier broke because the voltage from the ac flyback transformer was too high than my voltage multiplier could handle... its a monster.. wow 😊
theres a similar circuit to the zvs that uses bjts. I think it was called royer oscillator. Ive not yet built this circuit yet so i dont know if it runs cool like a zvs; it might be more prone to overheating, i dunno. But it definately seems to give similar results as a zvs with long, powerful arcs from what ive seen online. Do you know what the drawbacks of this circuit? Any tips or advice you might have for me regarding this circuit would be much appreciated. Side note: I love your channel. its one of my very favorites for getting inspired and ideas for what my next project will be. Your spark gap tesla coil videos helped me so much with understanding how to tune my sgtc and because of that finally got it to perform to my satisfaction. Thank you so much for providing the resources i needed to finally getting past that hurtle (i cant spell for shit). I hope you will consider in the future doing a video showing how to build HV supply for powering larger tesla coil transformers with the spark gap design. thats my problem currently. The arcs are 32cm which is awesome but theyre really weak and are barely visible with the lights on. My power supply is one i made thats a 555 timer pwm that drives a single mosfet to pulse DC thru the primary and the output of the flyback secondary can be varried with a variable resistor that controls the duty cycle of the pulsed DC. It works great but it isnt able to provide enough power to get the optimal performance from my circuit. It takes half a second to charge my cap bank to the voltage needed to jump the spark gap and results in breakout thats long but only present for short moment with half second pauses between each strike and is not bright/thick enough to be visible unless its a dark room. phew! sorry for long, long expo and question but im stumped and i figured youd have good advice to point me in the right direction.
I've watched dozens of videos on how to make a driver circuit for flybacks, most would show a neat diagram then present a tangled mess of wires.. I almost gave up until watching this, Thanks!
Glad I could help! In case it helps even more, I've also since added a schematic to my webpage about it rimstar.org/science_electronics_projects/high_voltage_power_supply_w_flyback_transformer_builtin_diodes.htm.
You should connect a resonant capacitor in parallel with the primary coil. The arcs will be much hotter and powerful. But will pull a lot more amps. So instead of BJT's you should use mosfets way more efficient. BTW great video and explanation. Keep it up👍
Thanks Steve! Some other time try schematic I sent you link. You can use flyback coils for primary and feedback just with short measure and search and you only need transistor (use hor defl trans from TV) and 2 resistors. I connect 12V or 24V and sometime 36V (three batt) - output is proportional and for higher input need to be in oil.
The How-I-Made the Cube high voltage power supply video is up now! Enjoy! PS. +Aaron Monroe pointed out in the comments the resemblance to a borg cube. Good thing I didn't think of it otherwise I would have made a cheezy clip of it flying through space, sparking away. :)
My flyback weights 440 grams with everything:D Is ist possible to add about 2250 lifters to it, power it by this power supply (on top of it) and fly it? I`m just dreaming about starting an orbiter with this (powered by xenon gas in space) :D
PojntFX (PFX) No, the power supply wouldn't be able to supply enough current for all the lifters to fly. The current is needed to ionized the air for the ion wind. The record is one that lifted 102g of payload plus the 85g lifter and used a heavier power supply that had multiple flybacks.
You can also drive flyback transformer with slaye exciter circuit just wind primary on the core of transformer & connect HV rtn. wire to the base of transistor & it works.
VERY NICE!!! I LOVE THIS GUY'S VIDEOS THEY ARE AWESOME AND HE KNOWS HIS STUFF ! NO DOUBT HE IS ACCURATE IN THESE VIDEOS! LOVE IT! THE TRANSFORMER HE SHOWS IN THIS VIDEO IS A IHVT. INTEGRATED HIGH VOLTAGE TRANSFORMER WHICH INCORPORATES THE HI VOLTAGE RECTIFIERS AND FOCUS/SCREEN POTENTIOMETERS AND MAYBE SOME BUILT IN FIXED RESISTORS. AWESOME VIDEO NO DOUBT. GOING TO BUILD THIS BECAUSE I ALREADY HAVE THE PARTS ON HAND. THANK YOU FOR SUCH A EXCELLENT VIDEO DUDE!!!! I was wondering about using the drive windings on the IHVT to drive the flyback instead of wrapping windings on the ferrite core? In the TV/monitor circuit the mfgr has a horizontal output transistor that has around 117vdc on the collector which is driven by a horizontal driver transistor through a horizontal driver transformer. This is a easier circuit and doing it the other way is much more involved. YOUR METHOD IS BETTER, SIMPLER AND SIMPLY AWESOME!! Another thing about the DC output from the flyback. It is non-filtered DC . The picture tube acts like a filter thus raises the hi voltage up higher so you won't be able to produce the same level as the anode hi. V. Lead hooked up to a CRT. CAN'T WAIT TO BUILD THIS. I WANT IT TO IONIZE. THE AIR.
I have found that running a flyback by its original coils is not feasable with the lower voltages because you would have to put more current on the primary than it was intended to take normally.
Power Max Someday. A plasma speaker is on the todo list but a Tesla coil is my priority - well, other than smaller projects done at the same time to keep the flow going. Got a neat fluorescence almost ready for Friday that's about something neat I discovered in making last week's video.
I had planned to find out if higher volts input would increase voltage out,but, that is inconclusive now,...however, I kind of think it just depends on input wattage now.
Thanks for replying.....i wish I could fix this problem, but, you can see for yourself that it would be risky to continue testing....as my supply capacitors could explode before I figured it out!
I am trying to get a good understanding of the flyback itself andalso the multiplier. I know somewhat how each is made,but it seems that when it is running and hooked to a multiplier,that there is some things about the ringing going into the multiplier that is quite complex. It also shows that pulse DC can be transformed to back EMF inside a transformer and thereby be transformed just as AC can.
The output arc was still up to 1.25 in., when I had the circuit strung out on the bench. I never got to measure it when it was in the box. This was just wire to wire.
Would I be correct if I am thinking that the transistor bases are getting about 2 volts when the transistors are turned on? If so, then, are they being turned off by the same amount of voltage in opposite polarity, or is the opposite polarity higher in voltage during the magnetic collapsing period?
I made a simple flyback circuit the other day from one of those other plans that uses the original primary and feedback from the flyback,but when it was on, I could not measure the current going in to it without the meter going haywire. I assume this may have been because i did not have the secondary Earth grounded. Do you think that might be the cause? The meter can measure volts or amps up to a frequency of 400 Hz. I know that the frequency of the flyback is running much higher, but exactly how much,I can't guess. I know that in a TV it would have been 15750Hz.
Forward base voltage should have only been 2.36 V when input was 26V. That is why I think that the reverse base voltage must have been exceeded. Also because the transistors did not get hot at all before they blew out. Again, I am sorry for all the comments about that I could not get the circuit to work,.....I feel stupid now!
I know that in your design that you probably don't have to worry about primary coil back EMF getting back to the power supply...as the coil is fed from center tap. But if someone was to use the original flyback primary and it is not a center tap fed situation, do you think back EMF would get back to the supply,and if so what would be the best way to prevent it?
I guessed that the original feedback coil would output 1/9 of the original primary volts, because on the TV circuit board the pins of these two coils said 15v and 135v.
It seemed like I had got the drawing off of a schematic from somewhere but I could not find where it came from. It was not your fault,,,,I have seen that you show it correctly.
On the bright side,....the hand wound coils do work,....it is puzzling though that when feedback was crossed, I tried to detect the magnetisum with a screw driver and could not tell that there was any!
No, this is the opposite of what you'd need. This produces high voltage, low current output whereas you'd need some form of high current output. That's not something I've worked on myself.
I also suspect that the resistors play a part in the frequency....because I could hear the ring. I had not accounted for that when I was planning that experiment.
would it be possible to build this using triode vacuum tubes instead of transistors? and is there a video you explain why you choose which resistors and wire size you use?
+Nathan Shaw I don't know if it would be possible to use triode vacuum tubes instead, but that would be an awesome project! As for the resistor sizes, I just used the same circuit as from my 30kV power supply (but without the multiplier) and I think that originally started from here jnaudin.free.fr/html/lifterb.htm.
Do you know if you would have to ground either of the two pins at the bottom that come from the focus or screen,.....I guess thats where they come from?
John Kerley I'm not familiar with the pins you're referring to. I am familiar with the focus and screen outputs on various flybacks. I leave them alone since I don't have need of those outputs.
Gabriel Heredia I haven't measured the output current, but the answer is no anyway. At most it's output is in the low milliamps. The input to the power supply that I measure at 7:12 in the video is 20V x 3.8A = 76 watts. Even if the output voltage is only 1000V, that would be a maximum output current of 72W / 1000V = 0.076A, roughly. Higher voltage would be even lower current.
The transistors turn on,but will not turn off,and the coil wires are turned the same direction,and the upper feedback wire is to base of one transistor and the upper primary coil wire is to that same transistors collector, and same for other transistor except it is the lower wires. The transistors are 2N3055. The coils appear to be about as tightly wound as what you show. It is a mystery!
Just make sure all groups of pins are connected to eachother. (insert link where no contact) and the pin-isolation would not be needed. Do not connect pins with internal connection(for example less than 100 ohm) together. There are some high-voltage resistors and capacitors inside. Shorting their pins together will stop them from arcing.
Interesting idea. I guess it's based on the assumption that the ones that aren't connected to any others go to sections of coil that are open somewhere. But what do you mean by "groups of pins"? The one in this video had just an set of pins spaced out in an arc. Oh, and I couldn't find any schematic for this flyback online.
RimstarOrg You can check the internal connections using a multimeter. There are: * 1 primary, around 1 ohm (probably pin 1 & 2), intended for around 90V * 1 high voltage negative (the one you found) * zero or more secondary windings (whatever apply, like: 12V, 15V, 6.3V) * Capacitor pins (to output, to focus), may spark when you spark from the output High voltage resistors (may reveal itself with high voltage output, tricky to messure with multimeter) None of the voltages listed here are very fixed, all depends on the TV/monitor. The secondary windings are usually many windings going from a central pin that is grounded. Try measuring all pins toward the other pins, probably no need to re-measure the HV negative.
erlendse Thanks. I did do resistance measurements before building the power supply. Going around the arc of pins: pins 1 thru 4 were connected with 0.9ohms between adjacent pins. pin 5 came off during my clean up. pin 6 was the ground return and disconnected from anything else, though of course we know it wasn't really. It has at least a diode. I did try doing a high voltage diode test (the test in my video here How to test high voltage diodes That test failed but that could just because there's more than just a single high voltage diode there. pins 7 thru 9 had around 0.8 ohms between them. pins 10 and 11 showed no continuity to anything. One of the other pins off to the side showed no continuity to anything. The other pin off to the side had 6.8 Mohms between it and the SCREEN wire.
RimstarOrg The video is correct, but we are talking about 3-6 HV diodes in series (with winding between each), so you will most likely need even more voltage. a 20-50V supply may be needed. If you connect pin 1, 7 and 6 the voltages should be under control. I also got a high voltage supply project, but with well known transformers.
I've tried it and no, it doesn't make a lifter fly. I thought it would but maybe the fact that's its output is pulsed DC instead of flat DC is the problem, but I'm really not sure. I would have expected it to work.
I wonder if the frequency that this cube is running at is actually 15.38 MHz? When you are showing the oscilloscope in the video, the scope looks like it suggest that the frequency may be 15.38 MHz, but it has a "?" after it. I know it is supposed to be a DC output,but perhaps it is a high speed pulse existing in the DC?
John Kerley It was guessing at all sorts of frequencies, nothing specific or real. The 125 Hz ripple I show after that at 20kV is real though. It's common with output from a multiplier circuit to have ripple on top of the DC output.
i háve a question, how do electic devices work, because i have two motors, if i spin them one generates 17 volts and the other 80, but the one that generates 90 cant run a circuit of lightbulbs while the other with 17 volts can, isnt the bigger the voltage the bigger the current??
+Guilherme Dantas go and study some basic the bigger the voltage lesser the current be according to the relation Vs/Vp=Ip/Is both the current and voltage are inversely proportional to eachother
could you please do a video on how to center tap, I'm honestly a really big fan and I try to make everything you do but I can't seem to understand how to center tap, thanks!
if you strip a section of the insulation in the centre of the wire, then wrap the one end of a second wire around that a few times. Then put some flux on it and solder. Electrical tape the soldered connection.
I was going to try an experiment to make the flyback work on higher voltage power supply by using either 440 ohm with 40 of the ohms divided off or 430 ohm with 30 ohms divided off so it would work with my 26V power supply. But I can't get it to work,even after putting jumper connectors to reduce the ohms back to 260 with 20 divided off....I know that is not exactly what the original plan was,but,it's pretty close,...it was just the way the resistor bank was that determined that amount.
I found out that it was because I forgot to earth ground my negative input. This is very important, as if in the case that the secondary happened to get to the primary or feedback, because it can, and if it does, it can have deadly consequences for the person touching the switch!
John Kerley I used a mix of stranded and solid, but just because that's what I happened to have and it's what fit. The black 18 AWG 5+5 turn one is stranded and the red 24 AWG 2+2 turn one is solid.
can I use this HV Power supply for making ESP??? please tell me,i think my ignition coil output is AC HV so the smoke still pass :( (fyi : i use ignition coil from reguler car)
I found out that the problem all along was that HV output was somehow directly connected to one or both of my input coils. The reason I got shocked was because at that point the input lines were not grounding out to wooden workbench.
1st. try zvs driver 2nd.royer oscillator (like this one) is not efficient for high powers- better use royer oscillator for driver circuit for set of 2 transistor and coil with center tap for full sine wave signal with high reliability and low losses
ElianoDi Check all you connections, make sure they're good and that they're correct. What did you do as your first test? What are you using to power it?
+David Aklanov I would call it dangerous, yes. It could burn you. It certainly wouldn't be pleasant if it took a path through your heart and would be worse for someone with a heart condition.
I like your videos,I can learn from them.Is this flyback safer than a MOT to power a Tesla coil,I hear MOT,s are a bit dangerous.Is this powerful enough for a Tesla coil. Thanks
Yes, this flyback is safer than a MOT because a MOT can output both a high voltage and a dangerously high current. This power supply can still hurt you but comparing the two, it's safer than a MOT. As for powering a Tesla coil, looking at the times at which you posted your comments, you probably don't realize it but you've already seen it powering my Tesla coil in my Tesla coil video th-cam.com/video/0SaEPW_iMF8/w-d-xo.html (this is the link for the whole playlist so you can see all the options).
John Kerley When it was arcing 1.25 in. the current only showed to be 900mA but this could only be measured with an analog meter. I,now believe that if it was'nt back EMF that killed the adapters, it must have been the current during the arcing that must be very high but in small fractions of a second and thus do not show up on an analog meter but can cause a digital meter display to shut down.
John Kerley I had planned it to be able to reach 25Kv when powered by 32V because I did have a 32V adapter. I figured that it would use less current to get to 25Kv that way,but apparently the current is much greater than I realized. Anyway it was just a simple one transistor running with the flybacks original coils for oscillation. The voltage dividing resistors were 360 Ohms and 30 Ohms. The transistor was Philips 610597 m9303. This is incase someone can get anything usefull from this.
It looks like you're using both stranded and solid core wire for the primary windings. I have some stranded 18 awd and solid core 24 awd wire on hand. I also have some solid core 1mm diameter copper enamel coated wire. Could this be used instead of the 18 gauge stranded wire? Does it matter whether the wire is stranded or solid? How critical are the wire diameters? Have you experimented with enamel coated wire for the primary windings?
MrChickenPicker It doesn't matter if they're stranded or solid. If you can't use the size I'm using then just go with the largest size that you can fit. I've used enamel coated wire and it worked.
Are you asking if this one can make a lifter fly? If so, I don't think so. In my experience I've needed around 24kV to make a lifter fly. I measured only 20kV with this flyback and transistors. If I turned the voltage up higher then the transistor very quickly heated up and I had to turn it off.
I am trying to build a power supply with all diy part except the FWB... May I ask below capacitor geometry questions? Bigger the roll (bigger diameter) make higher capacitance. More surface contact to + and - leg make higher Amp capacitor. Does longer the cylinder roll make higher DC voltage? In another word, more chubby person make more capacitance. More nurve, more waking person make higher Amp. Does taller person has higher volt?
In this video I talk about capacitance th-cam.com/video/GveI9gXIsHw/w-d-xo.html but you'll have to search online for the formula for a spiral capacitor since you'll be needing a very high capacitance. In fact, you'll probably be needing to make an electrolytic one like this th-cam.com/video/ml2TdQ2_2mk/w-d-xo.html and this th-cam.com/video/lmVVdV8wuB0/w-d-xo.html but I don't know how long it will last. In this video th-cam.com/video/MPD7skZ8OSo/w-d-xo.html. I talk about the capacitor voltage rating (breakdown voltage).
Hello Is is feasible for me to use TIP35C's instead of the 2N3055's ? I have built the circuit using 2N3055's but don't get a spark at 12v. I am a little nervous about turning up the juice. ....I am editing as I go along. I turned up the power and saw current flow but no spark. I shut off the power and heat tested components finding transistor two (looking at your circuit diagram, left to right) very warm. I have made a mistake, but will wait until tomorrow to find it, as I am 3 drinks in now ;-) Thanks for the great video's
MonkeyMagic Elecifun As far as I can tell from comparing the datasheets the TIP35C should work. You can minimize the risk to your hardware by putting around 240 kilohms of resistance (rated for 2 watts or more) in line with either the ground side of the spark gap or the HV side.
RimstarOrg Thank you for the advice. I have an issue. When providing power Q2 warms up to quickly at low voltage (7v) so I disconnect. The only difference with our circuits is that I do not know my flyback negative pin as yet and so it is not connected to negative. Also I have used two 1 watt 56 ohm to get the equivalence of 28 ohm for the 27 ohm resistor. Any thoughts please.
MonkeyMagic Elecifun My Q2 heats up quickly too, but at around 20v input. Make sure you have a good heat sink. The lack of ground may be a part of the problem but I can't swear to that. Here's a tip from Alex1M6 in the comments to this other video of mine (th-cam.com/video/Kb0WwsJgTMM/w-d-xo.html): "Add a fast recovery diode across each transistor with the cathode to collector and anode to emitter; BJT's are rather vulnerable to negative going voltages on their collectors. For further protection use small film capacitors of around 10-47nF across each diode too and this will shift the transistors into quasi class E switching and can even reduce the heating of the transistors slightly. Larger value capacitors will reduce the output voltage slightly but will also reduce transistor stress, so experiment before finalising the value."
Hi, Thank you for your help. I setup the flyback on my TIP35C based driver found the negative and then added the flyback back to 2N3055 circuit connected the negative and it works :-). I will now add the diodes and capacitors. Will two IN4937's be ok? Again many thanks.
RimstarOrg The film capacitors did reduce heating of the transistors but using the 47nf and 22nf film going above 16v killed transistors. I found so far a 10nf ceramic to be the best jacobs ladder performer, although the transistors got warm they survived.I have only tested to 10nf ceramics so far. I have killed 4 out of 5 2n3055's experimenting and will have to wait for more to continue. I might try some MJE13009's as I have some and see what happens ;-)
Sir I've used 220-12v 50w ballast to drive my BSC25-T1010A flyback transformer but I got a very little arcs not even an inch arcs. What's would be the problem sir I really need help please help me.
good day to you . i follow your diagram. and its working but have low spark, because of the of the arching electricity in the corona of flyback transformer. i already put a ground wire and a insulator varnish but still electricity is still arching. can you help me what can i do? or what varnish can i put. thank you for your time.
+john pacheco I'm assuming you mean you have arcing at the pins like I show at 2:33 in the video. If there are any sharp edges involved you can try smoothing them out. If you did any soldering there, make sure the solder is rounded like a ball with no sharp points. Making everything involved rounded is the best first step. If you do that then you will need less varnish. Be careful not to damage the pins. Sometimes they come out easily. The thicker the varnish the better, so add more layers of varnish. Different varnishes have different breakdown voltages but the manufacturer doesn't tell you what it is. A good material to use is called "Corona Dope". I show this at 3:28 in the video. It is designed for this purpose. You can also put varnish on wherever the arc is going to. At 2:33 you can see it is arcing to part of the structure, so you can put varnish there on the structure too.
Great tutorial, sir. I want to build one too.. Can I use one TIP 3055 as the transistor and 2200 uF 35 V capacitor, and have the resistor with higer wattage? will it work nice?
Comparing the two datasheets www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/TIP3055-D.PDF and www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/2N3055-D.PDF they're practically identical so it looks like the TIP3055 is mainly just a different packaging of the 2N3055. You should be able to use the TIP3055 instead. You'll still need to attach it to a heat sink like I do in the video. For the 2200uF capacitor, I don't know if 2200uF will be enough. You can use two of them in parallel to get 4400uF, to get closer to the 5000uF. The 4700uF one I use is a very common part and should be easy to find. I've even found them inside electronics that I've taken apart. A higher wattage resistor is okay. It's going with lower wattage that would be a problem.
RimstarOrg Thank you, sir.. I've gathered nessesary component for the wiring. But now I have a problem.. I have an adaptor with output 12V and 1.5A. Can it be used?
I do'nt know now if there was any truth to what I said about short current spikes or not, I believe that it was probably more like RF interference that was messing with the digital read outs of the bench supply,because it still does it. Of coarse, before this it was back feed voltage that caused it.
It was a random flyback from a randomly found TV. Pretty much any flyback you find on ebay.com will work. From writing that was on the board near the flyback transformer it said T505 and clearly it was a Sony flyback. From www.tvserviceparts.com/Sony_Transformers.html it's Model KV32FS12, Version T505, Part Number 1-453-338-21. The KV32FS12 might be the Sony TV model number. The 1-453-338-21 is the part number, maybe just for that website. An alternative part no looks like it might be Sony part 1-453-338-11
Are there any basic safety concerns with creating this? I've always been afraid of flyback transformers due to the pop when grounding out and the staggering voltages they produce.
Paul Lovelace Oh, yes, this one is dangerous. Make sure you turn it off and use a grounded stick like I was using to discharge the power supply before going near it.
Way back when I started my career in electronics, I pointed to a flyback transformer lead connecting the EHT in a TV, and had a spark jump to my finger, The burn took weeks to heal. Yes it is dangerous Old TVs used to run with an EHT voltage of 28Kv. The very early TV sets used a mains energised EHT transformer, that was not only dangerous, that was LETHAL.
I have been experimenting with a 32V system that uses the original flyback primary and feedback coils but when it establishes an arc it causes the digital display of the power supply to go off. I can measure the input current, however, with an analog meter,and it is @900mA. This makes me think that primary coil back EMF is going back against the power supply. This worries me because I am thinking that the supply output would have a capacitor across it and it would probably be an electrolytic capacitor,and I am thinking that this could cause it to explode!
John Kerley I read your questions carefully, but as I said before, I've never worked with an unmodified flyback, so I don't have an answer. Maybe someone else does but I don't know how many are looking in.
John Kerley John, thinking about it a little more... Does your problem happen with just back EMF or does it happen when there's a long, bright sparks. If it's sparks then maybe I can help.
RimstarOrg The factory bought power supply is a 32V,5A with digital V and A readouts. It will make the flyback work but when it is working the digital displays turn off. However, I have an analog milliameter also hooked to it and it says that the input is 900mA while the digital displays are turning off. The adapter is 32V,1560mA, but when I tried to run the flyback from it,it just turned off before I even saw one single spark and I did'nt even hear the flyback ringing either. I found out later that the adapter still worked after being unplugged and plugged back in later. I am sorry for being impatient. What I was wanting to know was if the flybacks primary coil was causing a back EMF if it would be a problem if that got back to an electrolytic capacitor that would be most likely (I imagine)on the output of an adapter right after the bridge rectifier....although it may be made intirely different than I am thinking...such as having,instead one of those ICs...ect.
I love the lower power arcs off of this sort of driver, much safer than some of the others out there.
However, the problem is that the output is DC voltage. A high frequency high AC voltage at 30000v will be more safe than 1000v DC.
I have used a ac flyback ( ozone transformer high frequency one ) and got unbelievably 30000 volts 20 ma arcs by using a ne555 driver circuit with only 18 v 10 amp input and now with a voltage multiplier...i am getting nearly 1 million volts ... it was such a huge success to me ... After some time the voltage multiplier broke because the voltage from the ac flyback transformer was too high than my voltage multiplier could handle... its a monster.. wow 😊
Nice build! If you have the time, try using a ZVS driver instead, it gives better output and the transistors dont get as hot.
*****
I'm no zvs expert but I think zvs drivers use MOSFETs instead of bipolar power transistors like the 2N3055.
yeah they do
theres a similar circuit to the zvs that uses bjts. I think it was called royer oscillator. Ive not yet built this circuit yet so i dont know if it runs cool like a zvs; it might be more prone to overheating, i dunno. But it definately seems to give similar results as a zvs with long, powerful arcs from what ive seen online. Do you know what the drawbacks of this circuit? Any tips or advice you might have for me regarding this circuit would be much appreciated.
Side note: I love your channel. its one of my very favorites for getting inspired and ideas for what my next project will be. Your spark gap tesla coil videos helped me so much with understanding how to tune my sgtc and because of that finally got it to perform to my satisfaction. Thank you so much for providing the resources i needed to finally getting past that hurtle (i cant spell for shit). I hope you will consider in the future doing a video showing how to build HV supply for powering larger tesla coil transformers with the spark gap design. thats my problem currently. The arcs are 32cm which is awesome but theyre really weak and are barely visible with the lights on. My power supply is one i made thats a 555 timer pwm that drives a single mosfet to pulse DC thru the primary and the output of the flyback secondary can be varried with a variable resistor that controls the duty cycle of the pulsed DC. It works great but it isnt able to provide enough power to get the optimal performance from my circuit. It takes half a second to charge my cap bank to the voltage needed to jump the spark gap and results in breakout thats long but only present for short moment with half second pauses between each strike and is not bright/thick enough to be visible unless its a dark room.
phew! sorry for long, long expo and question but im stumped and i figured youd have good advice to point me in the right direction.
@@ozymandiasking173 i think the circuit in this video IS royer oscillator.
@@milanhlavacek6730 it's very similar
I've watched dozens of videos on how to make a driver circuit for flybacks, most would show a neat diagram then present a tangled mess of wires.. I almost gave up until watching this, Thanks!
Glad I could help! In case it helps even more, I've also since added a schematic to my webpage about it rimstar.org/science_electronics_projects/high_voltage_power_supply_w_flyback_transformer_builtin_diodes.htm.
very nice & easy to follow tutorial!
though I have no use for it myself (yet) it was still great to watch :)
A tutorial like this is had to make be nice and easy, so I appreciate knowing it worked. Thanks!
You should connect a resonant capacitor in parallel with the primary coil. The arcs will be much hotter and powerful. But will pull a lot more amps. So instead of BJT's you should use mosfets way more efficient. BTW great video and explanation. Keep it up👍
In my experience mosfets are more sensetive to high amps and volts......And that way I blew 4 mosfets when I was making a zvs driver circuit
I was literally looking for a video like this two days ago :O, thx so much!!!
Awesome! Mr. Rim! Thank you.
Thank you for ex lent demo of the project. Very use full for electronic project making students
omg is that a baby jacobs ladder! It’s so cute lol! I need one now lolz
Thanks Steve! Some other time try schematic I sent you link. You can use flyback coils for primary and feedback just with short measure and search and you only need transistor (use hor defl trans from TV) and 2 resistors. I connect 12V or 24V and sometime 36V (three batt) - output is proportional and for higher input need to be in oil.
Thanks Tomy. So many things to try! :)
The How-I-Made the Cube high voltage power supply video is up now! Enjoy!
PS. +Aaron Monroe pointed out in the comments the resemblance to a borg cube. Good thing I didn't think of it otherwise I would have made a cheezy clip of it flying through space, sparking away. :)
Is it to heavy for ion propulsion on your test rig?
Mongrel Shark
Oh, yes. Even just the plastic Enterprise model with the laser in it was getting a bit on the heavy side.
Shame. If you had a bigger enterprise to counter balance. They could chase each other in circles.
My flyback weights 440 grams with everything:D
Is ist possible to add about 2250 lifters to it, power it by this power supply (on top of it) and fly it?
I`m just dreaming about starting an orbiter with this (powered by xenon gas in space) :D
PojntFX (PFX)
No, the power supply wouldn't be able to supply enough current for all the lifters to fly. The current is needed to ionized the air for the ion wind. The record is one that lifted 102g of payload plus the 85g lifter and used a heavier power supply that had multiple flybacks.
Another awesome video, thank you Rimstar
SUPER CORONA DOPE .oh year that sounds like the good stuff
You're wonderful! Carry on with your amazing videos!
Thanks. You make the coolest stuff.
You can also drive flyback transformer with slaye exciter circuit just wind primary on the core of transformer & connect HV rtn. wire to the base of transistor & it works.
Gaming with Arnis
dude, fucking for real? That works? thats fuvking crazy i gotta try that. does is give decent performance? can u upload a vid of it?
Great tutorial!
VERY NICE!!! I LOVE THIS GUY'S VIDEOS THEY ARE AWESOME AND HE KNOWS HIS STUFF ! NO DOUBT HE IS ACCURATE IN THESE VIDEOS! LOVE IT! THE TRANSFORMER HE SHOWS IN THIS VIDEO IS A IHVT. INTEGRATED HIGH VOLTAGE TRANSFORMER WHICH INCORPORATES THE HI VOLTAGE RECTIFIERS AND FOCUS/SCREEN POTENTIOMETERS AND MAYBE SOME BUILT IN FIXED RESISTORS. AWESOME VIDEO NO DOUBT. GOING TO BUILD THIS BECAUSE I ALREADY HAVE THE PARTS ON HAND. THANK YOU FOR SUCH A EXCELLENT VIDEO DUDE!!!! I was wondering about using the drive windings on the IHVT to drive the flyback instead of wrapping windings on the ferrite core? In the TV/monitor circuit the mfgr has a horizontal output transistor that has around 117vdc on the collector which is driven by a horizontal driver transistor through a horizontal driver transformer. This is a easier circuit and doing it the other way is much more involved. YOUR METHOD IS BETTER, SIMPLER AND SIMPLY AWESOME!! Another thing about the DC output from the flyback. It is non-filtered DC . The picture tube acts like a filter thus raises the hi voltage up higher so you won't be able to produce the same level as the anode hi. V. Lead hooked up to a CRT. CAN'T WAIT TO BUILD THIS. I WANT IT TO IONIZE. THE AIR.
Thanks for commenting back to me......I have to get off of here for now,I have to get up early.
Very cool.
The circuit I am talking about worked well when it was widely separated before it was put in the box.
I have found that running a flyback by its original coils is not feasable with the lower voltages because you would have to put more current on the primary than it was intended to take normally.
Fantastic
Thanks!
SWEET VIDEO. So how would this work for a tesla coil power supply? and What would be a safe power output for the cube in this usage? Thanks.
MUDDy
Will you someday show how to make a singing arc or plasma speaker? I am currently making one, it is pretty cool!
Power Max Someday. A plasma speaker is on the todo list but a Tesla coil is my priority - well, other than smaller projects done at the same time to keep the flow going. Got a neat fluorescence almost ready for Friday that's about something neat I discovered in making last week's video.
I had planned to find out if higher volts input would increase voltage out,but, that is inconclusive now,...however, I kind of think it just depends on input wattage now.
I'm sorry to go on so long as this,but I wish I knew how they got that primary and feedback inductance calculation!
Thanks for replying.....i wish I could fix this problem, but, you can see for yourself that it would be risky to continue testing....as my supply capacitors could explode before I figured it out!
John Kerley holy fucking shit you painted the comments section it's only you..
I am trying to get a good understanding of the flyback itself andalso the multiplier. I know somewhat how each is made,but it seems that when it is running and hooked to a multiplier,that there is some things about the ringing going into the multiplier that is quite complex. It also shows that pulse DC can be transformed to back EMF inside a transformer and thereby be transformed just as AC can.
I have one flyback that does run by internal coils,but,it is only outputting @9KV,due to keeping it at its normal operating current.
The output arc was still up to 1.25 in., when I had the circuit strung out on the bench. I never got to measure it when it was in the box. This was just wire to wire.
Hello Does it work on the Slayer Exciter device
you connected all kinds of stuff
I also wonder if raising the emitter/collector voltage would raise the output voltage,....or if it is more of a power issue?
Would I be correct if I am thinking that the transistor bases are getting about 2 volts when the transistors are turned on? If so, then, are they being turned off by the same amount of voltage in opposite polarity, or is the opposite polarity higher in voltage during the magnetic collapsing period?
I made a simple flyback circuit the other day from one of those other plans that uses the original primary and feedback from the flyback,but when it was on, I could not measure the current going in to it without the meter going haywire. I assume this may have been because i did not have the secondary Earth grounded. Do you think that might be the cause? The meter can measure volts or amps up to a frequency of 400 Hz. I know that the frequency of the flyback is running much higher, but exactly how much,I can't guess. I know that in a TV it would have been 15750Hz.
Forward base voltage should have only been 2.36 V when input was 26V. That is why I think that the reverse base voltage must have been exceeded. Also because the transistors did not get hot at all before they blew out. Again, I am sorry for all the comments about that I could not get the circuit to work,.....I feel stupid now!
I know that in your design that you probably don't have to worry about primary coil back EMF getting back to the power supply...as the coil is fed from center tap. But if someone was to use the original flyback primary and it is not a center tap fed situation, do you think back EMF would get back to the supply,and if so what would be the best way to prevent it?
Hi, are there any specifications I should look for when selecting a fly back transformer? Or will any fly back do the trick ?
Sadly, I don't know of any specifications for the flyback.
Can you do the Water Bridge Experiment , and bring a flame up to the Bridge and see what the reaction is?
The new flyback transformer also uses a super high voltage capacitor at very low capacity.
You can make plasma electrolysis?
I guessed that the original feedback coil would output 1/9 of the original primary volts, because on the TV circuit board the pins of these two coils said 15v and 135v.
It seemed like I had got the drawing off of a schematic from somewhere but I could not find where it came from. It was not your fault,,,,I have seen that you show it correctly.
I was wondering if u can make a simple inverter (dc to ac)
When the ones you have turn on, can you hear them ring?
On the bright side,....the hand wound coils do work,....it is puzzling though that when feedback was crossed, I tried to detect the magnetisum with a screw driver and could not tell that there was any!
Could this idea some how be modified to produce induction heater?
No, this is the opposite of what you'd need. This produces high voltage, low current output whereas you'd need some form of high current output. That's not something I've worked on myself.
I also suspect that the resistors play a part in the frequency....because I could hear the ring. I had not accounted for that when I was planning that experiment.
I had wanted to try your method as it seemed that an external coil could carry much greater current than the internal coil.
All along I had been backfeeding @25KV to my power supplies.김재수 25kv65hz
Why
would it be possible to build this using triode vacuum tubes instead of transistors? and is there a video you explain why you choose which resistors and wire size you use?
+Nathan Shaw I don't know if it would be possible to use triode vacuum tubes instead, but that would be an awesome project! As for the resistor sizes, I just used the same circuit as from my 30kV power supply (but without the multiplier) and I think that originally started from here jnaudin.free.fr/html/lifterb.htm.
Do you know if you would have to ground either of the two pins at the bottom that come from the focus or screen,.....I guess thats where they come from?
John Kerley I'm not familiar with the pins you're referring to. I am familiar with the focus and screen outputs on various flybacks. I leave them alone since I don't have need of those outputs.
You can make a HV power supply from flyback transformer and CFL lamp circuit?
Probably, but I don't have any circuit for doing it.
I don't know too much about oscilloscopes right now, so I can't determine if there could be something to that or not.
Can you make video of scope trace while j. ladder is on?
Does this push out more then 20 amps? Thanks!
Gabriel Heredia I haven't measured the output current, but the answer is no anyway. At most it's output is in the low milliamps.
The input to the power supply that I measure at 7:12 in the video is 20V x 3.8A = 76 watts. Even if the output voltage is only 1000V, that would be a maximum output current of 72W / 1000V = 0.076A, roughly. Higher voltage would be even lower current.
I wonder if my flyback core is too large,it is 5/8 x 5/8 in. cross section area., it came from a 36 in. TV?
Why didn't you use ZVS Driver ?
The transistors turn on,but will not turn off,and the coil wires are turned the same direction,and the upper feedback wire is to base of one transistor and the upper primary coil wire is to that same transistors collector, and same for other transistor except it is the lower wires. The transistors are 2N3055. The coils appear to be about as tightly wound as what you show. It is a mystery!
Just make sure all groups of pins are connected to eachother. (insert link where no contact) and the pin-isolation would not be needed. Do not connect pins with internal connection(for example less than 100 ohm) together.
There are some high-voltage resistors and capacitors inside. Shorting their pins together will stop them from arcing.
Interesting idea. I guess it's based on the assumption that the ones that aren't connected to any others go to sections of coil that are open somewhere. But what do you mean by "groups of pins"? The one in this video had just an set of pins spaced out in an arc. Oh, and I couldn't find any schematic for this flyback online.
RimstarOrg You can check the internal connections using a multimeter.
There are:
* 1 primary, around 1 ohm (probably pin 1 & 2), intended for around 90V
* 1 high voltage negative (the one you found)
* zero or more secondary windings (whatever apply, like: 12V, 15V, 6.3V)
* Capacitor pins (to output, to focus), may spark when you spark from the output
High voltage resistors (may reveal itself with high voltage output, tricky to messure with multimeter)
None of the voltages listed here are very fixed, all depends on the TV/monitor.
The secondary windings are usually many windings going from a central pin that is grounded.
Try measuring all pins toward the other pins, probably no need to re-measure the HV negative.
erlendse
Thanks. I did do resistance measurements before building the power supply. Going around the arc of pins:
pins 1 thru 4 were connected with 0.9ohms between adjacent pins.
pin 5 came off during my clean up.
pin 6 was the ground return and disconnected from anything else, though of course we know it wasn't really. It has at least a diode. I did try doing a high voltage diode test (the test in my video here How to test high voltage diodes That test failed but that could just because there's more than just a single high voltage diode there.
pins 7 thru 9 had around 0.8 ohms between them.
pins 10 and 11 showed no continuity to anything.
One of the other pins off to the side showed no continuity to anything.
The other pin off to the side had 6.8 Mohms between it and the SCREEN wire.
RimstarOrg
The video is correct, but we are talking about 3-6 HV diodes in series (with winding between each), so you will most likely need even more voltage.
a 20-50V supply may be needed.
If you connect pin 1, 7 and 6 the voltages should be under control.
I also got a high voltage supply project, but with well known transformers.
you should have explained the concept of how it all works
Actually,I am unsure if there is a back EMF ringing,or a series of quick back EMF spikes.
Does the cube provide enough thrust to fly an ionocraft?
I've tried it and no, it doesn't make a lifter fly. I thought it would but maybe the fact that's its output is pulsed DC instead of flat DC is the problem, but I'm really not sure. I would have expected it to work.
Pretty good arcs for a homemade power supply. I have to ask you though, have you tried using a 12 volt halogen ballast? You get huge yellow arcs.
Nice. Nope, these are the only arcs of this sort that I've produced. Usually I'm producing sparks.
i am wondering were did you get the resistors and the capacitor?
+ethan Karvelsson They came from some local electronics stores here in Ottawa, Canada. But you can find them online too.
So, you are supposed to connect a positive lead of the 24V DC powersupply to the red binding post?
9speedbird Yes. Make sure it's the red binding post and not the red one that I'd put black tape on.
RimstarOrg Haha, thanks
I wonder if the frequency that this cube is running at is actually 15.38 MHz? When you are showing the oscilloscope in the video, the scope looks like it suggest that the frequency may be 15.38 MHz, but it has a "?" after it. I know it is supposed to be a DC output,but perhaps it is a high speed pulse existing in the DC?
John Kerley It was guessing at all sorts of frequencies, nothing specific or real. The 125 Hz ripple I show after that at 20kV is real though. It's common with output from a multiplier circuit to have ripple on top of the DC output.
Would a 14V 1000MA DC model train transformer work for a tesla coil?
No, you need high voltage, in the thousands of volts.
i háve a question, how do electic devices work, because i have two motors, if i spin them one generates 17 volts and the other 80, but the one that generates 90 cant run a circuit of lightbulbs while the other with 17 volts can, isnt the bigger the voltage the bigger the current??
+Guilherme Dantas go and study some basic the bigger the voltage lesser the current be according to the relation Vs/Vp=Ip/Is both the current and voltage are inversely proportional to eachother
That's true for constant power. If the power limit is neglgibly big then it's Ohm's law I=U/R.
could you please do a video on how to center tap, I'm honestly a really big fan and I try to make everything you do but I can't seem to understand how to center tap, thanks!
if you strip a section of the insulation in the centre of the wire, then wrap the one end of a second wire around that a few times. Then put some flux on it and solder. Electrical tape the soldered connection.
Sorry, I missed your comment somehow. But my answer is the same as what +Aghast said.
+RimstarOrg thank you soooo much, your channel is so awesome!!!
I was going to try an experiment to make the flyback work on higher voltage power supply by using either 440 ohm with 40 of the ohms divided off or 430 ohm with 30 ohms divided off so it would work with my 26V power supply. But I can't get it to work,even after putting jumper connectors to reduce the ohms back to 260 with 20 divided off....I know that is not exactly what the original plan was,but,it's pretty close,...it was just the way the resistor bank was that determined that amount.
I found out that it was because I forgot to earth ground my negative input. This is very important, as if in the case that the secondary happened to get to the primary or feedback, because it can, and if it does, it can have deadly consequences for the person touching the switch!
Did you use solid core wire? Because I thought that that would be what to use,but I can't get it to work and I can't see any mistakes.
John Kerley I used a mix of stranded and solid, but just because that's what I happened to have and it's what fit. The black 18 AWG 5+5 turn one is stranded and the red 24 AWG 2+2 turn one is solid.
can I use this HV Power supply for making ESP??? please tell me,i think my ignition coil output is AC HV so the smoke still pass :( (fyi : i use ignition coil from reguler car)
Will it work as induction?
No. I'm no expert in induction heating but this doesn't ave the current for that.
Hi .. Can i use it to make ionocraft ? Are the voltage and current enough ?
It didn't work for my ionocraft. I suspect the voltage was too low.
Ok thanks ^^
I found out that the problem all along was that HV output was somehow directly connected to one or both of my input coils. The reason I got shocked was because at that point the input lines were not grounding out to wooden workbench.
John Kerley I'm glad to hear you found it at least.
1st. try zvs driver 2nd.royer oscillator (like this one) is not efficient for high powers- better use royer oscillator for driver circuit for set of 2 transistor and coil with center tap for full sine wave signal with high reliability and low losses
What's the frequency is it adjustable ?
I don't know the frequency and I don't know if it's adjustable. Sorry.
Hey Man,
I made the circuit as oer your design, but it isn't starting. Can you suggest some advices ?
ElianoDi Check all you connections, make sure they're good and that they're correct. What did you do as your first test? What are you using to power it?
are this voltage from the flyback transformer very dangerous???
+David Aklanov I would call it dangerous, yes. It could burn you. It certainly wouldn't be pleasant if it took a path through your heart and would be worse for someone with a heart condition.
can u help us by making a video where we can do mistakes in making this project
Naveen Kumar lol why
I like your videos,I can learn from them.Is this flyback safer than a MOT to power a Tesla coil,I hear MOT,s are a bit dangerous.Is this powerful enough for a Tesla coil. Thanks
Yes, this flyback is safer than a MOT because a MOT can output both a high voltage and a dangerously high current. This power supply can still hurt you but comparing the two, it's safer than a MOT. As for powering a Tesla coil, looking at the times at which you posted your comments, you probably don't realize it but you've already seen it powering my Tesla coil in my Tesla coil video th-cam.com/video/0SaEPW_iMF8/w-d-xo.html (this is the link for the whole playlist so you can see all the options).
At least I know the answer to one question now....will it harm an adapter....YOU BETTER BELIEVE IT!
John Kerley I blew away one adaptor in making this, but in my case it was because the current draw was too high.
RimstarOrg Well...if it is of any interest...I blew a 50W 32V at 1 in. arc, and I blew a 65W 20V at 3/4 in. arc.
John Kerley The max. distance it was able to arc to was 1.25 in. on my 150 W 32 V power supply when it was set on 32 V.
John Kerley When it was arcing 1.25 in. the current only showed to be 900mA but this could only be measured with an analog meter. I,now believe that if it was'nt back EMF that killed the adapters, it must have been the current during the arcing that must be very high but in small fractions of a second and thus do not show up on an analog meter but can cause a digital meter display to shut down.
John Kerley I had planned it to be able to reach 25Kv when powered by 32V because I did have a 32V adapter. I figured that it would use less current to get to 25Kv that way,but apparently the current is much greater than I realized. Anyway it was just a simple one transistor running with the flybacks original coils for oscillation. The voltage dividing resistors were 360 Ohms and 30 Ohms. The transistor was Philips 610597 m9303. This is incase someone can get anything usefull from this.
It looks like you're using both stranded and solid core wire for the primary windings. I have some stranded 18 awd and solid core 24 awd wire on hand. I also have some solid core 1mm diameter copper enamel coated wire. Could this be used instead of the 18 gauge stranded wire? Does it matter whether the wire is stranded or solid? How critical are the wire diameters? Have you experimented with enamel coated wire for the primary windings?
MrChickenPicker It doesn't matter if they're stranded or solid. If you can't use the size I'm using then just go with the largest size that you can fit. I've used enamel coated wire and it worked.
At least now I know that...you do need some sort of protection from back EMF from the primary coil.
I'm sorry.....I had drawn the plan wrong.....feedback was crossed!
What current does the flyback output?
Donna Sutherland I don't know, I didn't measure. It would also depend on what you do with the output since that's that determines the current.
This flyback so I can utilisare to make a lifter?
Are you asking if this one can make a lifter fly? If so, I don't think so. In my experience I've needed around 24kV to make a lifter fly. I measured only 20kV with this flyback and transistors. If I turned the voltage up higher then the transistor very quickly heated up and I had to turn it off.
I am trying to build a power supply with all diy part except the FWB...
May I ask below capacitor geometry questions?
Bigger the roll (bigger diameter) make higher capacitance.
More surface contact to + and - leg make higher Amp capacitor.
Does longer the cylinder roll make higher DC voltage?
In another word, more chubby person make more capacitance.
More nurve, more waking person make higher Amp.
Does taller person has higher volt?
In this video I talk about capacitance th-cam.com/video/GveI9gXIsHw/w-d-xo.html but you'll have to search online for the formula for a spiral capacitor since you'll be needing a very high capacitance. In fact, you'll probably be needing to make an electrolytic one like this th-cam.com/video/ml2TdQ2_2mk/w-d-xo.html and this th-cam.com/video/lmVVdV8wuB0/w-d-xo.html but I don't know how long it will last. In this video th-cam.com/video/MPD7skZ8OSo/w-d-xo.html. I talk about the capacitor voltage rating (breakdown voltage).
Hello
Is is feasible for me to use TIP35C's instead of the 2N3055's ? I have built the circuit using 2N3055's but don't get a spark at 12v. I am a little nervous about turning up the juice. ....I am editing as I go along. I turned up the power and saw current flow but no spark. I shut off the power and heat tested components finding transistor two (looking at your circuit diagram, left to right) very warm. I have made a mistake, but will wait until tomorrow to find it, as I am 3 drinks in now ;-) Thanks for the great video's
MonkeyMagic Elecifun As far as I can tell from comparing the datasheets the TIP35C should work. You can minimize the risk to your hardware by putting around 240 kilohms of resistance (rated for 2 watts or more) in line with either the ground side of the spark gap or the HV side.
RimstarOrg Thank you for the advice. I have an issue. When providing power Q2 warms up to quickly at low voltage (7v) so I disconnect. The only difference with our circuits is that I do not know my flyback negative pin as yet and so it is not connected to negative. Also I have used two 1 watt 56 ohm to get the equivalence of 28 ohm for the 27 ohm resistor. Any thoughts please.
MonkeyMagic Elecifun
My Q2 heats up quickly too, but at around 20v input. Make sure you have a good heat sink. The lack of ground may be a part of the problem but I can't swear to that. Here's a tip from Alex1M6 in the comments to this other video of mine (th-cam.com/video/Kb0WwsJgTMM/w-d-xo.html):
"Add a fast recovery diode across each transistor with the cathode to collector and anode to emitter; BJT's are rather vulnerable to negative going voltages on their collectors. For further protection use small film capacitors of around 10-47nF across each diode too and this will shift the transistors into quasi class E switching and can even reduce the heating of the transistors slightly. Larger value capacitors will reduce the output voltage slightly but will also reduce transistor stress, so experiment before finalising the value."
Hi, Thank you for your help. I setup the flyback on my TIP35C based driver found the negative and then added the flyback back to 2N3055 circuit connected the negative and it works :-). I will now add the diodes and capacitors. Will two IN4937's be ok?
Again many thanks.
RimstarOrg The film capacitors did reduce heating of the transistors but using the 47nf and 22nf film going above 16v killed transistors. I found so far a 10nf ceramic to be the best jacobs ladder performer, although the transistors got warm they survived.I have only tested to 10nf ceramics so far. I have killed 4 out of 5 2n3055's experimenting and will have to wait for more to continue. I might try some MJE13009's as I have some and see what happens ;-)
Sir I've used 220-12v 50w ballast to drive my BSC25-T1010A flyback transformer but I got a very little arcs not even an inch arcs. What's would be the problem sir I really need help please help me.
I'm not familiar with ballasts so I can't help you.
good day to you . i follow your diagram. and its working but have low spark, because of the of the arching electricity in the corona of flyback transformer. i already put a ground wire and a insulator varnish but still electricity is still arching. can you help me what can i do? or what varnish can i put. thank you for your time.
+john pacheco I'm assuming you mean you have arcing at the pins like I show at 2:33 in the video. If there are any sharp edges involved you can try smoothing them out. If you did any soldering there, make sure the solder is rounded like a ball with no sharp points. Making everything involved rounded is the best first step. If you do that then you will need less varnish. Be careful not to damage the pins. Sometimes they come out easily.
The thicker the varnish the better, so add more layers of varnish. Different varnishes have different breakdown voltages but the manufacturer doesn't tell you what it is. A good material to use is called "Corona Dope". I show this at 3:28 in the video. It is designed for this purpose.
You can also put varnish on wherever the arc is going to. At 2:33 you can see it is arcing to part of the structure, so you can put varnish there on the structure too.
+RimstarOrg thanks for the advise i will try to follow your instruction. many thanks and more power.
Great tutorial, sir. I want to build one too.. Can I use one TIP 3055 as the transistor and 2200 uF 35 V capacitor, and have the resistor with higer wattage? will it work nice?
Comparing the two datasheets www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/TIP3055-D.PDF and www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/2N3055-D.PDF they're practically identical so it looks like the TIP3055 is mainly just a different packaging of the 2N3055. You should be able to use the TIP3055 instead. You'll still need to attach it to a heat sink like I do in the video.
For the 2200uF capacitor, I don't know if 2200uF will be enough. You can use two of them in parallel to get 4400uF, to get closer to the 5000uF. The 4700uF one I use is a very common part and should be easy to find. I've even found them inside electronics that I've taken apart.
A higher wattage resistor is okay. It's going with lower wattage that would be a problem.
RimstarOrg Thank you, sir.. I've gathered nessesary component for the wiring. But now I have a problem.. I have an adaptor with output 12V and 1.5A. Can it be used?
The current's too low. See the video at 7:08.
I do'nt know now if there was any truth to what I said about short current spikes or not, I believe that it was probably more like RF interference that was messing with the digital read outs of the bench supply,because it still does it. Of coarse, before this it was back feed voltage that caused it.
Sir what is the code number of the flyback transformer you have used???
It was a random flyback from a randomly found TV. Pretty much any flyback you find on ebay.com will work.
From writing that was on the board near the flyback transformer it said T505 and clearly it was a Sony flyback. From www.tvserviceparts.com/Sony_Transformers.html it's Model KV32FS12, Version T505, Part Number 1-453-338-21. The KV32FS12 might be the Sony TV model number. The 1-453-338-21 is the part number, maybe just for that website. An alternative part no looks like it might be Sony part 1-453-338-11
Are there any basic safety concerns with creating this? I've always been afraid of flyback transformers due to the pop when grounding out and the staggering voltages they produce.
Paul Lovelace Oh, yes, this one is dangerous. Make sure you turn it off and use a grounded stick like I was using to discharge the power supply before going near it.
Way back when I started my career in electronics, I pointed to a flyback transformer lead connecting the EHT in a TV, and had a spark jump to my finger, The burn took weeks to heal. Yes it is dangerous Old TVs used to run with an EHT voltage of 28Kv.
The very early TV sets used a mains energised EHT transformer, that was not only dangerous, that was LETHAL.
I have been experimenting with a 32V system that uses the original flyback primary and feedback coils but when it establishes an arc it causes the digital display of the power supply to go off. I can measure the input current, however, with an analog meter,and it is @900mA. This makes me think that primary coil back EMF is going back against the power supply. This worries me because I am thinking that the supply output would have a capacitor across it and it would probably be an electrolytic capacitor,and I am thinking that this could cause it to explode!
John Kerley I read your questions carefully, but as I said before, I've never worked with an unmodified flyback, so I don't have an answer. Maybe someone else does but I don't know how many are looking in.
John Kerley John, thinking about it a little more... Does your problem happen with just back EMF or does it happen when there's a long, bright sparks. If it's sparks then maybe I can help.
RimstarOrg The factory bought power supply is a 32V,5A with digital V and A readouts. It will make the flyback work but when it is working the digital displays turn off. However, I have an analog milliameter also hooked to it and it says that the input is 900mA while the digital displays are turning off. The adapter is 32V,1560mA, but when I tried to run the flyback from it,it just turned off before I even saw one single spark and I did'nt even hear the flyback ringing either. I found out later that the adapter still worked after being unplugged and plugged back in later. I am sorry for being impatient. What I was wanting to know was if the flybacks primary coil was causing a back EMF if it would be a problem if that got back to an electrolytic capacitor that would be most likely (I imagine)on the output of an adapter right after the bridge rectifier....although it may be made intirely different than I am thinking...such as having,instead one of those ICs...ect.
John Kerley Oh,I forgot to say that the digital displays turn off during sparking only.