Hi Jon, some tips… There is no need to rewind the dirty pads. What you should be doing is loosening the takeup thumbscrews a few rotations so the takeup cores spin freely, then grab the media and literally pull the media off of the pads (pulling to the side so all 4 cores spin). It is very good to see you did NOT remove the two takeup cores. Those should always be reused, as removing them and installing new ones each time you load up new pads cause damage over time to the two rubber inserts which grab the takeup cores. When rewinding the pads, in the video you are standing directly in front of the media cleaner. That is the hardest way to get a smooth rewind, which is visible in the video. Stand to the side of the film cleaner so the handle is directly in front of you. (Your left hand will reach over the top of the cleaner to assist with the right hand that is rewinding the media.) The rag you used is fine, but a paper towel works just as well and is disposable. However you didn’t wipe clean the two idler rollers the media travels over, so whatever crud is on there from the last cleaning will be transferred to your new clean rolls of media. When wetting the pads, it’s easier if you dismount the cleaner and set it on a table so you can get a better angle with the sprayer on the second pad. Also it makes it easier for you to look on the underside of the pads to verify you put enough on to completely wet the pads. You don’t want to see any dry spots. The video is a little overexposed, but it looks like you have a few dry spots on the inside edge of the pads, and the bottom side of the pads could be dry which could cause scratching when that section of the media pulls across the idler. Don’t re-use the masking tape that is on the media pads from the factory to secure the tip of the media to the takeup core. Always use Scotch “Magic” tape. The “Magic” tape is the only tape that is not prone to slipping once wet. Before capping the two supply shafts, take your extra core and try to rewind the pads. Because you tightened the two takeup thumbscrews when you taped the media to the takeup cores you should NOT be able to rewind it. If however the media starts to rewind, it means your tape is not grabbing the takeup core and is slipping backwards, or your rubber insert in the takeup core is wearing out or you forgot to tighten the thumbscrews enough. The last step before running the film through the new pads is to take the tip of your finger and spin the main drive wheel as fast as you can to simulate film motion for 10-15 seconds. Watch closely the media itself to ensure it is advancing. Now it is safe to run your film.
I really like these Kelmar cleaners. the only thing I ever had to do to one was fix the rubber collars that hold the cleaning pads on to the takeup shafts. they swell with age and makes the pad hard to put on to the cleaner.
I need one of these for 16mm film. I’ve seen some set ups but never one for sale. Any idea if something like this one exists for 16mm? Would work good between a pair of rewinds
@designsbyg I need to find a way to convince my wife we need this one: www.ebay.com/itm/256503506832?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=vdnekBinQTi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=gAqdupQWTLq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@Lundfishbuster Its called Film-0-Clean. I know the guy who manufactures them. Its like a miniature kelmar. They work great! I use on on my Eiki 16mm projector.
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Hi Jon, some tips…
There is no need to rewind the dirty pads. What you should be doing is loosening the takeup thumbscrews a few rotations so the takeup cores spin freely, then grab the media and literally pull the media off of the pads (pulling to the side so all 4 cores spin).
It is very good to see you did NOT remove the two takeup cores. Those should always be reused, as removing them and installing new ones each time you load up new pads cause damage over time to the two rubber inserts which grab the takeup cores.
When rewinding the pads, in the video you are standing directly in front of the media cleaner. That is the hardest way to get a smooth rewind, which is visible in the video. Stand to the side of the film cleaner so the handle is directly in front of you. (Your left hand will reach over the top of the cleaner to assist with the right hand that is rewinding the media.)
The rag you used is fine, but a paper towel works just as well and is disposable. However you didn’t wipe clean the two idler rollers the media travels over, so whatever crud is on there from the last cleaning will be transferred to your new clean rolls of media.
When wetting the pads, it’s easier if you dismount the cleaner and set it on a table so you can get a better angle with the sprayer on the second pad. Also it makes it easier for you to look on the underside of the pads to verify you put enough on to completely wet the pads. You don’t want to see any dry spots. The video is a little overexposed, but it looks like you have a few dry spots on the inside edge of the pads, and the bottom side of the pads could be dry which could cause scratching when that section of the media pulls across the idler.
Don’t re-use the masking tape that is on the media pads from the factory to secure the tip of the media to the takeup core. Always use Scotch “Magic” tape. The “Magic” tape is the only tape that is not prone to slipping once wet.
Before capping the two supply shafts, take your extra core and try to rewind the pads. Because you tightened the two takeup thumbscrews when you taped the media to the takeup cores you should NOT be able to rewind it. If however the media starts to rewind, it means your tape is not grabbing the takeup core and is slipping backwards, or your rubber insert in the takeup core is wearing out or you forgot to tighten the thumbscrews enough.
The last step before running the film through the new pads is to take the tip of your finger and spin the main drive wheel as fast as you can to simulate film motion for 10-15 seconds. Watch closely the media itself to ensure it is advancing. Now it is safe to run your film.
Thanks for your comments
I really like these Kelmar cleaners. the only thing I ever had to do to one was fix the rubber collars that hold the cleaning pads on to the takeup shafts. they swell with age and makes the pad hard to put on to the cleaner.
What was the fix for that, I have at least one swollen one, and one that appears to be shrunken on my unit?
I need one of these for 16mm film. I’ve seen some set ups but never one for sale. Any idea if something like this one exists for 16mm? Would work good between a pair of rewinds
Not seen one 16mm
i've seen a 16mm Neumade film cleaner. not as nice as these Kelmar units but work on a similar principle. theres one on ebay
@designsbyg I need to find a way to convince my wife we need this one: www.ebay.com/itm/256503506832?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=vdnekBinQTi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=gAqdupQWTLq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@Lundfishbuster Its called Film-0-Clean. I know the guy who manufactures them. Its like a miniature kelmar. They work great! I use on on my Eiki 16mm projector.
What is the oldest 35mm print what do you have?
Big Jake