The cold start is to allow the car to reach operating temperature. The secondary fan provides air so the mixture is not perfect so that causes the cold start. Its perfectly normal and should not be deleted. It adds a longer life to the engine because the engine is performing optimally when warmed up properly
Hi Terry, thank you for the input. I agree that there's a reason for BMW to design a engine like this. It seems to me that only some of the S65 engines give the crazy rpm fluctuation and misfire codes. I also believe that a brand new S65 engine will not give misfire codes and it may be due to aging of the engine. Sometimes the cold start stalls my engine so I feel it a bit troublesome. What do you think we can do about it?
Excellent job, I have been looking through a lot of stuff on the ECUWorx tools and this is the only completely clear with full A-Z steps I can find. Finally I fully understand the whole process thanks to YOU. I am a Brit living in Shanghai and I own a 2013 E93 M3 with 55,000 kM. I too suffer the cold start problems and have been looking at both the maintenance and software solutions. Apart from the rough cold start I also got misfire problems a while back, only on the cold start. I changed the battery and the misfires went away but the RPM drops of the cold start continued. Recently I drained my battery a little while using ISTA to test TA and ICV etc searching for possible problems that cause the rough cold start. With a low battery the misfits returned. Something during the cold start procedure needs voltage. Once the battery is charged back up the misfires go away. Ista finds no problems and the only codes I get are the misfires on multiple cylinders when the battery is low. I think multiple cylinders can rule out normal things like plugs, coils and injectors, also smooth running after the cold start. I don't want to blow 5000 RMB on new ICV to find that the problem still remains so I think I will try the cold start delete either by using the ECUWorx method of buy a tune from BMP/Evolve?Alipne with the cold start deleted. BTW, my car is completely stock, no modifications to blame 🙂. But again a big thanks for such a well put together walk through and all the excellent safety tips before starting the job. Living in an apartment in Shanghai presents its own problems for battery charging and easy tow away access 😞. All the best, Rob
Hello Rob, Thank you for the comments! I am very happy you find my video useful. Please kindly let me know your further thoughts about the M3. It's such a nice and fun car to drive as well as to own and maintain. Welcome to the big supporting group! 🤗 Here you just gave me a cool idea about the misfire associated with system voltage. ISTA has documentation about misfire detection for the S65 engine. In short, the DME uses the ignition coil and spark plug to measure the current and duration of the spark to determine combustion quality. So that makes sense why misfires were detected when battery is low. In addition, there are complaints about the electricity consumption of the E generation. The battery drains faster than the previous products even when you just park the car for a long time. So I found that constant driving of the M3, which charges the battery, is also an essential item of maintenance. I don't drive mine often but when I do, I usually drive 150-250 km in one day. Around 50% of the total drive time is cruising on highways. I guess this is why I have a healthy battery and a healthy power train at 135k km of mileage. (Last battery change was in 2018.) I never have ICV problem (knocking on wood) but I will watch it out. Especially when I have just topped the fuel tank. That is the timing most people observed the ICV problem. If you don't have rough idle right after a full tank, you may exclude ICV at this moment. I just came back from the track day and I really had fun with the M3. It's so reliable that I am surprised that I could rev the 15-year-oil engine 4000-9000 RPM for 20 min track time and go home without any check engine light (wait, let me scan the codes 😁.) Please expect my next videos. See you soon!
@@funcarsgoodpeople I love the car, its my pride and joy. Even though I have a standard exhaust the sound is wonderful, I spend most of my time with either the roof or window down so I can hear the intake, exhaust and throttle blips, no car has ever put a bigger smile on my face, I just wished I lived somewhere with less traffic and winding roads, Shanghai is terrible for a driver.
Well I think the cold start noise is at least 30% cool but I am living in a community so I don't want to bother my neighbors. Other than the noise, the misfire codes are the most annoying side product of the cold start and they are sufficient reason for us to do the cold start delete 🤗
@funcarsgoodpeople hi Carl, thank you for your message. I think cold start is cool as well, but for me dumping more fuel is the main issue. Hope the misfire is sorted and he does the cold start delete and all will be well. What tyre do you have on the beast? I've got Continental contact sport 7. Really nice.
@@arjunsamuel Hi Arjun some of my friends are running the CSC 7 too. It has good reputation! I am running on Michelin PS4S in the front and PSS in the rear, just for the sake of on sale price. I drive a lot on highways and the PS4S lasts really long, more than 40K km! Perhaps it's because of my slow driving style 😁 I gave a short review on the tires in my racetrack video: th-cam.com/video/X2bW8qPqRQA/w-d-xo.html However this combination is not satisfying for the racetrack I suppose 🤔
@funcarsgoodpeople hi Carl, love video re the cold start delete but i dont have the ability ofna pilor to follow proceedure. 👏so best left to the professionals for me. 😁 I believe the ccs7 has a good longevity as well as good wet handling and braking as per reviews. I'm not a professional tester so can't tell the difference. I have never tracked my car. I just enjoy the sound, performance and the handling. So not really keen on tracking the car.
@@arjunsamuel I see Arjun. I enjoy the M3 on the streets and highways too. The car is so balanced and it goes the way you want. I am supposing that I cannot find such car again 😁
Hi , where i can talk with you , i have a problem with my e91 320d , crank But no start ( 4691 error code ) DDE: supply voltage 3 I have changed everything , fuel pumps working , rail sensor , regulator , relays , injection pump sensor and don’t start… Thank you for understanding !
Hi Alexandru I am happy you have the fault code because it tells us some clues! I use information for N47 engines (DDE6;) The DDE control unit supplies a number of sensors with a 5 V power supply as detailed below: - Supply voltage 1: pedal position sensor 1 (PWG), rail-pressure sensor - Supply voltage 2: pedal position sensor 2 (PGS), turbocharger pressure sensor, air mass-flow meter - Supply voltage 3: Crankshaft position/rpm sensor The rpm sensor signal is used as a measurement variable for: (many items) - Checking start conditions And there will be some other fault codes related to the speed sensor; The following faults are monitored: 3E90, No crankshaft speed sensor signal 3E91, Crankshaft speed sensor signal incorrect 3E90, Temporary loss of crankshaft speed sensor signal 3E91, Crankshaft speed sensor signal temporarily incorrect In addition, the speed difference between the camshaft and crankshaft is monitored. Consequence: - Engine shuts down Please first check the wiring for the camshaft position/rpm sensor. Make sure the sensor has 5V power supply. Then check if the sensor is functional (swap it on to another 320d.) You can provide me more information via funcarsgoodpeople@gmail.com and I can send you more ISTA documents I mentioned above. Good luck!
Hello! I think your car has the same issue as mine. when the car is bone cold and hasn't driven for like a day after you car starts like it's low on fuel pressure. (23:20 that sounds like it's fires once and the car struggles after and starts right away. it doesn't sounds like one hit) have you noticed and tried to fixed this issue? it seems like you've already changed O2 sensor and spark plug. but you didn't swapped the ignition coils right? what do you think this is happening? i feel like the car is in not a good status.
Hi PennyKenny yes I do sometimes have an extended crank recently. I am trying to record that process but haven't caught it yet. Like you said it felt like low fuel pressure but it doesn't come on every bone-cold start. It may related to my addition of RedLine fuel additives but I'm just guessing. FYI, I haven't replaced my ignition coils since I got this car. The spark plug roughly accumulated 20K km. I don't drive the M3 often but when I do I usually make around 100-150 km in one day. I scan the car very often (because I have been making videos about coding) and I did not see any fault codes about ignition. So I will assume the ignition coils and spark plugs have aged normally. Let's continue the observation and perhaps make a video about it shall we? I will update in your comments. Come back often!
@@funcarsgoodpeople Thanks for all these infos! I've searched a bit more and found this video! th-cam.com/users/shortslrWQxvcg__w And he solved this with changing the fuel injectors. he said the old injectors were leaking! I've owned this car about 6 months (2010 year model, 110000KM) and I didn't do spark plug, ignition coil, fuel injectors yet. TA done(rebuilt), rod bearings done(ACL) and I'm planning to do spark plugs and fuel injectors first. these coils are damn expensive! cuz on some S65 engines, fuel injectors can be seized open position while running and hydrolock the engine, Kill the engine. valve springs are other things to keep an eye on but that's too much for now I'll do spark plugs and fuel injectors for my M3 in a month or two and record the whole process and post it or I'll let you know on the comments! have a nice day!
@@funcarsgoodpeople and yes mine doesn't throw codes too T_T but at idle the rpm needle doesn't jump and there's no noticeable move at rpm needle but the car feels a bit shaky. that's why I'm planning to do fuel injectors! I'll come back when repair is done!
Thank you PennyKenny I watched the shorts and read the comments. I understand that is the normal start. No hesitation. So this is the new item to be replaced 😂 like you said wayyyy too much. Let's do them one by one. Please let me know your result!
@@funcarsgoodpeople Hello I'm back with a good news! my M3s problem has solved I posted a two shorts(before&after) you can see and hear what I was talking about. hiccup at cold start! changing a set of new injectors worked for me! highly recommend doing this job. weird ticking and vibration from the car has gone. well maybe changing spark plugs could solve that too but it punches more and feels great! have a nice day!
![O2 Sensor Replacement Fixed Rough Idle & Limp Mode of E90 M3 [ENG SUB]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9n33de17WiI/mqdefault.jpg)
The cold start is to allow the car to reach operating temperature. The secondary fan provides air so the mixture is not perfect so that causes the cold start. Its perfectly normal and should not be deleted. It adds a longer life to the engine because the engine is performing optimally when warmed up properly
Hi Terry, thank you for the input. I agree that there's a reason for BMW to design a engine like this. It seems to me that only some of the S65 engines give the crazy rpm fluctuation and misfire codes.
I also believe that a brand new S65 engine will not give misfire codes and it may be due to aging of the engine. Sometimes the cold start stalls my engine so I feel it a bit troublesome. What do you think we can do about it?
Excellent job, I have been looking through a lot of stuff on the ECUWorx tools and this is the only completely clear with full A-Z steps I can find. Finally I fully understand the whole process thanks to YOU. I am a Brit living in Shanghai and I own a 2013 E93 M3 with 55,000 kM. I too suffer the cold start problems and have been looking at both the maintenance and software solutions. Apart from the rough cold start I also got misfire problems a while back, only on the cold start. I changed the battery and the misfires went away but the RPM drops of the cold start continued. Recently I drained my battery a little while using ISTA to test TA and ICV etc searching for possible problems that cause the rough cold start. With a low battery the misfits returned. Something during the cold start procedure needs voltage. Once the battery is charged back up the misfires go away. Ista finds no problems and the only codes I get are the misfires on multiple cylinders when the battery is low. I think multiple cylinders can rule out normal things like plugs, coils and injectors, also smooth running after the cold start. I don't want to blow 5000 RMB on new ICV to find that the problem still remains so I think I will try the cold start delete either by using the ECUWorx method of buy a tune from BMP/Evolve?Alipne with the cold start deleted. BTW, my car is completely stock, no modifications to blame 🙂. But again a big thanks for such a well put together walk through and all the excellent safety tips before starting the job. Living in an apartment in Shanghai presents its own problems for battery charging and easy tow away access 😞. All the best, Rob
Hello Rob,
Thank you for the comments! I am very happy you find my video useful. Please kindly let me know your further thoughts about the M3. It's such a nice and fun car to drive as well as to own and maintain. Welcome to the big supporting group! 🤗
Here you just gave me a cool idea about the misfire associated with system voltage. ISTA has documentation about misfire detection for the S65 engine. In short, the DME uses the ignition coil and spark plug to measure the current and duration of the spark to determine combustion quality. So that makes sense why misfires were detected when battery is low.
In addition, there are complaints about the electricity consumption of the E generation. The battery drains faster than the previous products even when you just park the car for a long time. So I found that constant driving of the M3, which charges the battery, is also an essential item of maintenance. I don't drive mine often but when I do, I usually drive 150-250 km in one day. Around 50% of the total drive time is cruising on highways. I guess this is why I have a healthy battery and a healthy power train at 135k km of mileage. (Last battery change was in 2018.)
I never have ICV problem (knocking on wood) but I will watch it out. Especially when I have just topped the fuel tank. That is the timing most people observed the ICV problem. If you don't have rough idle right after a full tank, you may exclude ICV at this moment.
I just came back from the track day and I really had fun with the M3. It's so reliable that I am surprised that I could rev the 15-year-oil engine 4000-9000 RPM for 20 min track time and go home without any check engine light (wait, let me scan the codes 😁.) Please expect my next videos. See you soon!
@@funcarsgoodpeople I love the car, its my pride and joy. Even though I have a standard exhaust the sound is wonderful, I spend most of my time with either the roof or window down so I can hear the intake, exhaust and throttle blips, no car has ever put a bigger smile on my face, I just wished I lived somewhere with less traffic and winding roads, Shanghai is terrible for a driver.
wow great 👏👏👏👏👏👏
Hi Paolo thank you for the comment! I hope it helps!
哥，您有收費協助關閉冷啟動的服務嗎？
Wystery哥您好，因為小弟只是ＤＩＹ玩家，資源有限（沒有場地與編程專用電源供應器），所以沒有營業。寫電腦蠻需要經驗與專業設備的，還是建議您請店家處理喔！
其實我是在北投小開的Magic Tuning關閉冷啟動的，後來自己研究之後，才做了這部影片跟大家經驗分享。小開的經驗豐富，推薦您給他處理唷！謝謝您的肯定 🤗
Hello friend. I've asked the garage to do the cold start delete. Hope mine won't do that crazy noise thing.
Well I think the cold start noise is at least 30% cool but I am living in a community so I don't want to bother my neighbors.
Other than the noise, the misfire codes are the most annoying side product of the cold start and they are sufficient reason for us to do the cold start delete 🤗
@funcarsgoodpeople hi Carl, thank you for your message. I think cold start is cool as well, but for me dumping more fuel is the main issue. Hope the misfire is sorted and he does the cold start delete and all will be well. What tyre do you have on the beast? I've got Continental contact sport 7. Really nice.
@@arjunsamuel Hi Arjun some of my friends are running the CSC 7 too. It has good reputation! I am running on Michelin PS4S in the front and PSS in the rear, just for the sake of on sale price.
I drive a lot on highways and the PS4S lasts really long, more than 40K km! Perhaps it's because of my slow driving style 😁 I gave a short review on the tires in my racetrack video: th-cam.com/video/X2bW8qPqRQA/w-d-xo.html However this combination is not satisfying for the racetrack I suppose 🤔
@funcarsgoodpeople hi Carl, love video re the cold start delete but i dont have the ability ofna pilor to follow proceedure. 👏so best left to the professionals for me. 😁 I believe the ccs7 has a good longevity as well as good wet handling and braking as per reviews. I'm not a professional tester so can't tell the difference. I have never tracked my car. I just enjoy the sound, performance and the handling. So not really keen on tracking the car.
@@arjunsamuel I see Arjun. I enjoy the M3 on the streets and highways too. The car is so balanced and it goes the way you want. I am supposing that I cannot find such car again 😁
Hi , where i can talk with you , i have a problem with my e91 320d , crank But no start ( 4691 error code ) DDE: supply voltage 3
I have changed everything , fuel pumps working , rail sensor , regulator , relays , injection pump sensor and don’t start…
Thank you for understanding !
Hi Alexandru I am happy you have the fault code because it tells us some clues! I use information for N47 engines (DDE6;)
The DDE control unit supplies a number of sensors with a 5 V power supply as detailed below:
- Supply voltage 1: pedal position sensor 1 (PWG), rail-pressure sensor
- Supply voltage 2: pedal position sensor 2 (PGS), turbocharger pressure sensor, air mass-flow meter
- Supply voltage 3: Crankshaft position/rpm sensor
The rpm sensor signal is used as a measurement variable for:
(many items)
- Checking start conditions
And there will be some other fault codes related to the speed sensor; The following faults are monitored:
3E90, No crankshaft speed sensor signal
3E91, Crankshaft speed sensor signal incorrect
3E90, Temporary loss of crankshaft speed sensor signal
3E91, Crankshaft speed sensor signal temporarily incorrect
In addition, the speed difference between the camshaft and crankshaft is monitored.
Consequence:
- Engine shuts down
Please first check the wiring for the camshaft position/rpm sensor. Make sure the sensor has 5V power supply. Then check if the sensor is functional (swap it on to another 320d.)
You can provide me more information via funcarsgoodpeople@gmail.com and I can send you more ISTA documents I mentioned above. Good luck!
Hello! I think your car has the same issue as mine. when the car is bone cold and hasn't driven for like a day after you car starts like it's low on fuel pressure. (23:20 that sounds like it's fires once and the car struggles after and starts right away. it doesn't sounds like one hit)
have you noticed and tried to fixed this issue? it seems like you've already changed O2 sensor and spark plug. but you didn't swapped the ignition coils right? what do you think this is happening? i feel like the car is in not a good status.
Hi PennyKenny yes I do sometimes have an extended crank recently. I am trying to record that process but haven't caught it yet. Like you said it felt like low fuel pressure but it doesn't come on every bone-cold start. It may related to my addition of RedLine fuel additives but I'm just guessing. FYI, I haven't replaced my ignition coils since I got this car. The spark plug roughly accumulated 20K km.
I don't drive the M3 often but when I do I usually make around 100-150 km in one day. I scan the car very often (because I have been making videos about coding) and I did not see any fault codes about ignition. So I will assume the ignition coils and spark plugs have aged normally.
Let's continue the observation and perhaps make a video about it shall we? I will update in your comments. Come back often!
@@funcarsgoodpeople Thanks for all these infos!
I've searched a bit more and found this video!
th-cam.com/users/shortslrWQxvcg__w
And he solved this with changing the fuel injectors.
he said the old injectors were leaking!
I've owned this car about 6 months (2010 year model, 110000KM)
and I didn't do spark plug, ignition coil, fuel injectors yet. TA done(rebuilt), rod bearings done(ACL)
and I'm planning to do spark plugs and fuel injectors first. these coils are damn expensive!
cuz on some S65 engines, fuel injectors can be seized open position while running and hydrolock the engine, Kill the engine.
valve springs are other things to keep an eye on but that's too much for now
I'll do spark plugs and fuel injectors for my M3 in a month or two
and record the whole process and post it or I'll let you know on the comments!
have a nice day!
@@funcarsgoodpeople and yes mine doesn't throw codes too T_T
but at idle the rpm needle doesn't jump and there's no noticeable move at rpm needle but the car feels a bit shaky.
that's why I'm planning to do fuel injectors!
I'll come back when repair is done!
Thank you PennyKenny I watched the shorts and read the comments. I understand that is the normal start. No hesitation. So this is the new item to be replaced 😂 like you said wayyyy too much. Let's do them one by one. Please let me know your result!
@@funcarsgoodpeople Hello I'm back with a good news!
my M3s problem has solved
I posted a two shorts(before&after)
you can see and hear what I was talking about. hiccup at cold start!
changing a set of new injectors worked for me!
highly recommend doing this job.
weird ticking and vibration from the car has gone. well maybe changing spark plugs could solve that too but it punches more and feels great!
have a nice day!