When you pull the automatic cam chain tensioner body off the motor, the plunger extends all the way out (otherwise it wouldn't be working) and that should not be the starting point for setting the manual tensioner - you're liable to break a cam chain doing that when you go to tighten the tensioner body back up as the plunger would be out too far. Better place to start would be to make a measurement using a wooden dowel or ?? into the hole to measure the depth with the auto tensioner removed and set the replacement to that. Also, setting to TDC doesn't matter. If the chain has stretched so much that it might skip when you take the tensioner off - the chain needs to be replaced. There may be an ideal place to set the timing so that there is maximum slack at the tensioner side of the chain, but that's not necessarily TDC.
I was getting ready to type out the same thing you did . I'm glad I read this first . Everyone listen to what Bucky is saying he is 100 percent correct .
Was very clear and helpful... couldn't start my bike because removed tensioner and wasn't aware about lining up properly timing chain...now I do understand why my bike doesn't start. Thanks 👍
I´ve seen today about 10 videos on how to change the cct, some in english and some in my native spanish language, want you to know this is the best video of them all, the others don´t speak clear enough or have loud music or the video images are not clear enough. Your video surpasses by far all others. I was looking for a cbr 600 f3 but understood it better with this yamaha. Wish you luck.
Guys! much easier way : Remove spring on original tensioner then push plunger 1 or 2 clicks forward with screwdriver or until feeling slight resistance then return spring and tighten bolt,Voila !Nearly same procedure as with manual one!I dont think that it is about MotoPosh being "picky", It is about selling the manual tensioner. MotoPosh please declare if you are getting money share or are sponsered by manual tensioner manufacturer or not. thank you for your honesty.
On a spring and ratchet tensioner you should remove the spring before removing the tensioner. With the spring removed you can see where /how far the tensioner is extended out. If your tensioner is already fully extended then you will need a new chain. If there is still travel left pushing the rod will let you see if the plunger is seized. Also you can check if the ratchet is worn at is normal tension position allowing the tensioner to release, sometimes only one point on the teeth is worn.
timing is never affected if the chain remain the same position in relation to sprockets during the process. The crankshaft is always pulling from one side.
You are correct. Although for a tutorial video like this, I recommend you remove your timing cover and ensure you are at TDC before starting a project like this. It simply minimizes the risk of screwing your timing up. (I.e. your engine could be under compression depending where your piston is at)
@@Motoposh I'm trying to think of why TDC has anything to do with the tensioner. I'm not getting anything. Where the engine is clocked has nothing to do with the cam chain tension.
@@myronstambaugh761Funny I was thinking the same thing that timing the engine first has nothing to do with chain tension but the Poster is correct it ensures the piston isn't on the compression stroke ready to give way and muddy the waters... It's like setting the parking brake before you raise the car😅
I don't think the timing would be affected unless you were removing the timing chain or sprockets. You're just swapping a spring on a stick for a bolt and a jam nut.
Timing wouldn't be effected as long as you don't turn the engine over in any way. If the engine is turned over without cam chain tension it can jump timing
I would think you risk under tightening, no? When it warms up the chain stretches so requires slightly more tension. The screw that's applying tension isn't getting that much heat (plus it is dissipating a lot of it's heat fast since half of it is outside the engine), so it doesn't expand that much.
I don’t think you need to worry about going top dead center because you aren’t changing the timing just putting pressure on the cam change and it shouldn’t look timing unless somehow you try to roll the motor without the tensioner in. Otherwise good video I just feel like you added a step and more time.
Tdc on compression will have all the valves closed on a single cylinder engine. Having the valves closed means you are not risking the valve springs rotating the cam once tension is released.
@@nexus7tablet610 I'm noob but why is rotating the cam bad if everything is bolted down the chain is not going to slip and timing will remain the same? I see no reason to do TDC unless you're unlocking the cam bridges
@@tim3062 if anything moves with the tensioner out it can cause the chain to jump out of alignment, of not corrected there is the possibility of valve to piston contact. On multi cyclinder engines some valve may be under spring tension with number one at tdc sometimes this causes the cams to shift when the tensioner is released, on a single cylinder engine all valve should be closed minimising the risk of things moving on their own.
thanks man you rock I just bought one today from amazon those oem ones always fail on my 2007 honda vfr vtec 800rr .......keep the videos coming i dont think ill ever go back to the other tensioners
Yes mate oil is almost everywhere in the engine to keep it lubricated so it will come out of almost any hole if not plugged. it also has a o-ring which is there to stop that from happening
Just got a Tokiomods manual tensioner and instructions say to tighten adjuster screw with housing out 2mm then tighten housing. This gives preload (tension) on it
Do you back it out a quarter turn while the engine is running do you do the adjustments while the engine is running or do you always adjust it while the engine is off and then recheck?
My dads got an 87 suzuki lt2504wd it works decently the chain does rattle like hell & starting idleing & throttle response are poor in my opinion ... When i adjusted tge cam chain on my honda 3 wheeler or my quad runner on both machines ... All 3 improved greatly
everytime i use one of these my chain stretches and i have to replace my timing chain i leave it at the same adjustment as the oem tensioner and my chain seems to slap so i tighten it more to get rid of that and bam chain stretches to no tomorrow
How tight should the timing chain be? Mine is super tight. no slack at all when pushing my fingers in. I wonder if I should remove my tensioner and inspect it or should it be very tight.
Sup Sean. It should be tighter than say your regular chain. The job of the cam chain tensioner is to constantly put pressure on the chain so that it's always tight. If you think it's too tight listen for a "whining" sound.. if you hear that then loosen it up a bit.
But if you begin to hear a rattle noise or a ticking then it's too loose. Tighten it a quarter turn until the rattle goes away and then another quarter turn to give it the proper tension
@@Motoposh when it was running it was running fine. i just didnt want extra pressure on the chain causing it to wear (well gears too).... Mine has a spring in it so not sure how much adjustment it has
Cheers Mate thanks for the Video, with that photo of the tensioner tunnel after you removed the chain-tensioner. It looked like it was worn on the tensioner guide inside where the tensioner had pressure on it . did that turn out to being a problem at all. Cheers 🍺
Guy Last Glad to hear that! Inspected the automatic tensioner on my Ninja a few months back, didn’t find TDC and after just watching this now, it made me panic thinking I might have messed up my timing!
Hey my 99 honda 400ex won't start, and someone suggested my timing chain fell off so before I dive into engine I thought I would check tensioner first.. im wanderin if its bad that I have both nuts up against back of tensioner??
Thank you for your educational sharing. I had always depended on the workshop guys, but your clear explanations have challenged me to try the cam-chain tensioner replacement process, when the time comes. Would this process be almost similar in principle, on the SXR 900 ?
hi. just want to know what are the cons if you did not set your engine to TDC before getting the stock one? is there any big problem in the future? thanks. hope someone can reply to my question.
The last part is a bit confusing. If you don't get the correct tension the first time and you hear some rattle, do you need to repeat the whole process from the start again? Because as you said, it will not be the top center.
Dude help me i have manual tensioner in my kawasaki i already tighten up and it makes the engine much slower but it is still making the noise u know the timing chain noise .... I don't want to tight it up little more I'm afraid it will brake the timing chain
The main failure mode of a non hydrailic cct is when the ratchet wears allowing the chain to push the tensioner back causing a chain rattle. Less common is the tensioner sticking so that it no longer self adjusts allowing the chain to rattle or the spring inside breaking so not enough pressure is applied to the tensioner. If your chain is rattling because it is stretched and your tensioner is fully extended then you need to replace the chain, a manual tensioner will just mask the problem. It is wise to release tension on the adjusting mechanism by removing the centre spring (or lock the adjuster screw in some cases) so that the tensioner can not extend whilst removing it for inspection. If the tensioner is not fully extended then you know there is a chance the chain still has some life left. Once the cct is out check to see if the ratcheting mechanism is good by trying to push the tensioner closed, if it releases then the teeth are probably worn and the unit needs replacing. If it holds without collapsing back you can try pushing/extending the tensioner manually to see if it is jammed. A sticking tensioner can often be cleaned and freed up, be sure to check that the locking mechanism works throughout the full stroke of the tensioner. If the ratchet lock works fine and the tensioner moves freely reset it and refit the spring, to see if the spring is still good. If the spring isn't physically snapped or broken the tensioner should fully extend readily , if it doesn't then the spring may have lost tension and needs replacing.
@@nexus7tablet610 how would i determine if the chain is stretched without ripping the engine down ? I have a ltz400 that has slap .. id rather not rip it down an put a new chain in if i can just get away with a manual adjuster it runs great etc was only trail ridden n never saw limiter till last year " didnt have it out this year " if that matters just trying to give as much info as i can !
@@dyllenger there should be specs for your cam chain, you have to measure the length between so many links with the chain under tension. Unfortunately this will likely mean removal from the engine to measure, by which time you might as well replace it as a matter of course.
The pro is you don't have to worry about the OEM spring/ratchet system braking and loosing all cam chain tension. The con is you have to make sure it stays properly tensioned, most people do it because it looks cool and never adjust it. Personally, I've only seen one OEM go bad, I converted that OEM to a manual. (Video on my channel) On a regular bike for track days and trails, I would keep the OEM tensioner in.
No I wouldn't say so. The stock one is a spring one with constant pressure so the manual one if adjusted properly and frequently enough would really be better.
To set the tensioner adjustment, rotate the engine forward while screwing the tensioner bolt in. When you feel the engine tensioner parts (guide, rollers, etc.) make contact with the moving cam chain, back the tensioner bolt out 1/4 turn and tighten the jam nut. (For the finer pitch thread on the APE Pro Series tensioner it is advised to back the tensioner up 1/2 of a turn.)
You dont need to be a tdc to do this. Really the only way you'll jump time is by cranking the motor without the tensioner in. Most all engines cam guides keep the chain from jumping a tooth when turned by hand. Uh you didn't set the tension right either. This is why i do this for a living. To fix what others shouldn't touch.
Question then sir,,, I have the 2011 Concourse 14 and want to put in this manual Cct.. Is this done pretty much the same way here?. I'll put it in gear and lock the brakes so no TDC required, pull the old hydraulic one out, put the new one in screw adjusting bolt till good resistance is felt then back out 1/2 turn then tighten both mounting screws. Does that work and or what might you do different? Thank you
Is there really anything wrong with how the factory tensioner operates? No matter how worn your timing chain gets it will NOT jump timing with the stock tensioner. There is a reason it was designed the way it was designed. I trust Yamaha and have bought their products for years with no problems. If it isn't broken, don't fix it!
Some makes have hydraulic tensioners, some are self wratcheting and some fail, when they fail they can produce to much or not enough tension on the chain which can cause adverse and abnormal wear. The manual gives you more control over your own situation so you have a choice..
hm. well, it would have to be taken apart, i still have the fixture i used in my tool box to drill the threads and tap new ones into it, and had to machine a new screw because ace hardware didnt have a long enough bolt to use as an adjuster. however. this was done to my DRZ400sm. it works just as good, if not better than the ones youd buy from a store because i CNC machine my bolt, and tap it myself. most things made by machinists are several times better in quality. sorry guys. unsure how to explain the procedure. its just... .... i do it... thats all....
This is not a recommended mod ... manufactures used this bolt/nut combo (or manual chain tensioner method) in the past (early 90s and 80s) and it was an evolution to go to the spring self adjusting chain tensioner. You can damage prematurely the chain and the guide rails ... Please stop doing this crazy things just because "others" did it !!! If you have too many slack in the chain just buy a new chain and tensioner !!! I always hated mods that can cause problems instead of solving them. People will buy this crap and they will overtighten the chain "so no power gets robbed" (another stupidity) and they will damage their chain and guides prematurely and end up having to buy an OEM chain + tensioner let's not talk about engine rebuilds because of chains that might break due to abnormally high tension applied to them ... So people please think twice and think about the engineering team and resources put into making and designing an engine. Do NOT do stupid mods that will make your wallet suffer later. This is perfectly fine ATV that should have run with that stock chain tensioner for years and years to come !
If you must know.. I reinstalled the OEM spring tensioner. This video was meant to show the install process on any engine. I'm sure you know some bikes are known to have them fail.. (i.e. my 2007 triumph Daytona). Many people including myself switch to manual tensioners in this case because we're better off adjusting a manual one rather than waiting for the inevitable failure of the OEM one. On the Raptor the OEM ones are fine and aren't known to be a problem thats why I reinstalled mine.. but I did run the Manual one I installed in this video for months with zero problems. In my opinion, they're safe as long as you monitor and adjust them properly. Also I definitely did not install this as a power mod haha, thats dumb. And I tried my best to emphasize it should not be over tightened or too loose as engine failure can result. Thanks for your comment
You are not correct. There is not a single professional team MOTOGP or Superbike that uses an automatic tensioner. That is because Manuals are more relyable. BUT manual tensioners chain tension has to be re-checked for the correct tension periodically where automatics do not. But some automatics have proven to be unrelyable because of tearing housing and breaking springs. If you are going to check the chain tension every year or so you should get a manual tensioner. if you have 2 left hands you should get an automatic and have it installed by a dealer.
Appreciate your opinion but you have to understand one thing; mechanism or mechanicals do fail. There isn't any proven man made technology that would last a lifetime.
@Lucian Pop that may be your opinion, but it is an incorrect one. Automatic cam chain tensioners have been known to fail, ever since they started using them. When they fail, cam jumps timing, then comes piston to valve contact. You are welcome to keep your automatic cct, and wonder what that weird sound is,when your cam chain is loose, but I would rather spend $40 on a manual tensioner, than possibly a complete head, piston and cylinder, because the stock tensioner failed.
When you pull the automatic cam chain tensioner body off the motor, the plunger extends all the way out (otherwise it wouldn't be working) and that should not be the starting point for setting the manual tensioner - you're liable to break a cam chain doing that when you go to tighten the tensioner body back up as the plunger would be out too far. Better place to start would be to make a measurement using a wooden dowel or ?? into the hole to measure the depth with the auto tensioner removed and set the replacement to that.
Also, setting to TDC doesn't matter. If the chain has stretched so much that it might skip when you take the tensioner off - the chain needs to be replaced. There may be an ideal place to set the timing so that there is maximum slack at the tensioner side of the chain, but that's not necessarily TDC.
I was getting ready to type out the same thing you did . I'm glad I read this first . Everyone listen to what Bucky is saying he is 100 percent correct .
Who wants to do that! just adjust it and sell it 😂😂
Was very clear and helpful... couldn't start my bike because removed tensioner and wasn't aware about lining up properly timing chain...now I do understand why my bike doesn't start. Thanks 👍
Thanks dude. I've been looking for a video like this for a few days now. Its exactly what I was looking for
I´ve seen today about 10 videos on how to change the cct, some in english and some in my native spanish language, want you to know this is the best video of them all, the others don´t speak clear enough or have loud music or the video images are not clear enough. Your video surpasses by far all others. I was looking for a cbr 600 f3 but understood it better with this yamaha. Wish you luck.
Thanks man!
Guys! much easier way : Remove spring on original tensioner then push plunger 1 or 2 clicks forward with screwdriver or until feeling slight resistance then return spring and tighten bolt,Voila !Nearly same procedure as with manual one!I dont think that it is about MotoPosh being "picky", It is about selling the manual tensioner. MotoPosh please declare if you are getting money share or are sponsered by manual tensioner manufacturer or not. thank you for your honesty.
Thank you for this- it's been a hot minute since I installed my manual CCT and you confirmed what I thought I remembered for the adjustment. 👍👍
also, you have to lock the tensioner before removing it. If not, the tensioner will expand when you start loosening the bolts.
On a spring and ratchet tensioner you should remove the spring before removing the tensioner.
With the spring removed you can see where /how far the tensioner is extended out.
If your tensioner is already fully extended then you will need a new chain.
If there is still travel left pushing the rod will let you see if the plunger is seized.
Also you can check if the ratchet is worn at is normal tension position allowing the tensioner to release, sometimes only one point on the teeth is worn.
timing is never affected if the chain remain the same position in relation to sprockets during the process. The crankshaft is always pulling from one side.
You are correct. Although for a tutorial video like this, I recommend you remove your timing cover and ensure you are at TDC before starting a project like this. It simply minimizes the risk of screwing your timing up. (I.e. your engine could be under compression depending where your piston is at)
@@Motoposh I'm trying to think of why TDC has anything to do with the tensioner. I'm not getting anything. Where the engine is clocked has nothing to do with the cam chain tension.
You're correct.. It's not needed. Finding TDC is just an extra step
@@myronstambaugh761Funny I was thinking the same thing that timing the engine first has nothing to do with chain tension but the Poster is correct it ensures the piston isn't on the compression stroke ready to give way and muddy the waters... It's like setting the parking brake before you raise the car😅
Thank you I just bought the same tensioner for my Yamaha rhino now I know how to do it
I don't think the timing would be affected unless you were removing the timing chain or sprockets. You're just swapping a spring on a stick for a bolt and a jam nut.
sniperv25 umm not
If you over or under tighten it on some bike, it can.
Correct
Timing wouldn't be effected as long as you don't turn the engine over in any way. If the engine is turned over without cam chain tension it can jump timing
If the engine is on a compression stroke and you release the tension from the cam chain you can jump timing . Always make sure it’s TDC
Not mentioned is that adjusting the tension should be done with the motor hot. If you do it while cold then you risk over-tightening the chain.
☣droid☣ if you just did engine work, how is it going to be hot to do initial adjustment?
I would think you risk under tightening, no? When it warms up the chain stretches so requires slightly more tension. The screw that's applying tension isn't getting that much heat (plus it is dissipating a lot of it's heat fast since half of it is outside the engine), so it doesn't expand that much.
Id install semi tightened cold. Then retighten after heated. Not gnna hurt anything with a sligtly loose timing chain. Just robs some power.
@@v1kku correct chains loosen when hot
I don’t think you need to worry about going top dead center because you aren’t changing the timing just putting pressure on the cam change and it shouldn’t look timing unless somehow you try to roll the motor without the tensioner in. Otherwise good video I just feel like you added a step and more time.
Tdc on compression will have all the valves closed on a single cylinder engine.
Having the valves closed means you are not risking the valve springs rotating the cam once tension is released.
@@nexus7tablet610 I'm noob but why is rotating the cam bad if everything is bolted down the chain is not going to slip and timing will remain the same? I see no reason to do TDC unless you're unlocking the cam bridges
@@tim3062 if anything moves with the tensioner out it can cause the chain to jump out of alignment, of not corrected there is the possibility of valve to piston contact.
On multi cyclinder engines some valve may be under spring tension with number one at tdc sometimes this causes the cams to shift when the tensioner is released, on a single cylinder engine all valve should be closed minimising the risk of things moving on their own.
So it's not necessary to brace the chain before pulling out the CCT, in order to prevent the cams from rolling?
thanks man you rock I just bought one today from amazon those oem ones always fail on my 2007 honda vfr vtec 800rr .......keep the videos coming i dont think ill ever go back to the other tensioners
good video but i think we dont have to set camshaft position when we change the tensioner only. ??
3:47 is it normal for oil to come out that hole. i started when i forget to plug it back in and oil sperted out. ?
Yes mate oil is almost everywhere in the engine to keep it lubricated so it will come out of almost any hole if not plugged. it also has a o-ring which is there to stop that from happening
Just got a Tokiomods manual tensioner and instructions say to tighten adjuster screw with housing out 2mm then tighten housing. This gives preload (tension) on it
I have already manual tensioner so i only need just to tight a little bit right ?
Great video I’ll be putting one of these on my Kawi!
Nice video.. So did you have any problems until today??
I want to buy one this, for my xr400..
Thanks
Great video, I need to do this on an 86 Vulcan 750, does it have to be top dead center as well?
Do you back it out a quarter turn while the engine is running do you do the adjustments while the engine is running or do you always adjust it while the engine is off and then recheck?
My dads got an 87 suzuki lt2504wd it works decently the chain does rattle like hell & starting idleing & throttle response are poor in my opinion ... When i adjusted tge cam chain on my honda 3 wheeler or my quad runner on both machines ... All 3 improved greatly
Im changing my auto to manual tensioner, Thanks for the video!
everytime i use one of these my chain stretches and i have to replace my timing chain i leave it at the same adjustment as the oem tensioner and my chain seems to slap so i tighten it more to get rid of that and bam chain stretches to no tomorrow
Should try replacing your cam sprocket too. If thats worn down, your new chain is still going to have play and make noise.
Why is their no new gasket needed for the new tensioner?
A new gasket is definitely needed, sorry I didn't mention that. Mine came with a new gasket
I wouldn’t pull off all the timing covers if your car full it should be good but if you want to be extra safe then that makes sense
How tight should the timing chain be? Mine is super tight. no slack at all when pushing my fingers in. I wonder if I should remove my tensioner and inspect it or should it be very tight.
Sup Sean. It should be tighter than say your regular chain. The job of the cam chain tensioner is to constantly put pressure on the chain so that it's always tight. If you think it's too tight listen for a "whining" sound.. if you hear that then loosen it up a bit.
But if you begin to hear a rattle noise or a ticking then it's too loose. Tighten it a quarter turn until the rattle goes away and then another quarter turn to give it the proper tension
@@Motoposh when it was running it was running fine. i just didnt want extra pressure on the chain causing it to wear (well gears too)....
Mine has a spring in it so not sure how much adjustment it has
Oohh you're good man, the spring tensioners provide a good amount of force to keep it tight 👌
When you adjust the tensioner, loosen or tighten it do you still have to be at TDS?
+ISaeProductions No, just for the initial installation!
@@Motoposh thank you...had the same question as above... Writing from Costa Rica...Pura vida mae✌
Cheers Mate thanks for the Video, with that photo of the tensioner tunnel after you removed the chain-tensioner. It looked like it was worn on the tensioner guide inside where the tensioner had pressure on it . did that turn out to being a problem at all. Cheers 🍺
No need to take the top timing chain cover off or find TDC. Apart from that great video.
Guy Last Glad to hear that! Inspected the automatic tensioner on my Ninja a few months back, didn’t find TDC and after just watching this now, it made me panic thinking I might have messed up my timing!
Red Loctite should be applied to the locking nut once the cam chain tensioner is finally adjusted correct?
Blue
Definitely NOT red!!!!!
Yeah if you like giving yourself a hernia every time you adjust your tensioner 😂
My motorbike 250cc Kawasaki the tensioner now make noise should I change to manual or the automatic is better..?
I would definitely say you need to replace it asap. Up to you if you want to go with an automatic or manual! They are both just as easy to install
Hey my 99 honda 400ex won't start, and someone suggested my timing chain fell off so before I dive into engine I thought I would check tensioner first.. im wanderin if its bad that I have both nuts up against back of tensioner??
Your timing chain is stretched or broke no way should the bolt go all the way in
Great vid! Thanks!
Thank you for your educational sharing. I had always depended on the workshop guys, but your clear explanations have challenged me to try the cam-chain tensioner replacement process, when the time comes. Would this process be almost similar in principle, on the SXR 900 ?
hi. just want to know what are the cons if you did not set your engine to TDC before getting the stock one? is there any big problem in the future? thanks. hope someone can reply to my question.
No no problem
@@Motoposh thank you so much sir. nice vids btw. im a new subsciber. more power
I have done this with marks or not it would move But be careful with tensioner only by hand as fast as it goet
The last part is a bit confusing. If you don't get the correct tension the first time and you hear some rattle, do you need to repeat the whole process from the start again? Because as you said, it will not be the top center.
No, you dont need to repeat the process. The process Is only for installation.
Thanks for the video !
Thank You.
Dude help me i have manual tensioner in my kawasaki i already tighten up and it makes the engine much slower but it is still making the noise u know the timing chain noise .... I don't want to tight it up little more I'm afraid it will brake the timing chain
What kind of Kawasaki do you have and did you get your problem fixed?. I know this was a few years ago
Do u have a video for a 2002 400 ex sportrax??
It's the same procedure
Great video! I’m doing an install on my tl1000s
Great video,thank you.
Can the manual one extend further so I dnt have to replace my chain lol
Actually... yes haha. Mine can extend like half an inch past the stock one
@@Motoposh awesome man thank you for responding!! Subbed :)
The main failure mode of a non hydrailic cct is when the ratchet wears allowing the chain to push the tensioner back causing a chain rattle.
Less common is the tensioner sticking so that it no longer self adjusts allowing the chain to rattle or the spring inside breaking so not enough pressure is applied to the tensioner.
If your chain is rattling because it is stretched and your tensioner is fully extended then you need to replace the chain, a manual tensioner will just mask the problem.
It is wise to release tension on the adjusting mechanism by removing the centre spring (or lock the adjuster screw in some cases) so that the tensioner can not extend whilst removing it for inspection.
If the tensioner is not fully extended then you know there is a chance the chain still has some life left.
Once the cct is out check to see if the ratcheting mechanism is good by trying to push the tensioner closed, if it releases then the teeth are probably worn and the unit needs replacing.
If it holds without collapsing back you can try pushing/extending the tensioner manually to see if it is jammed.
A sticking tensioner can often be cleaned and freed up, be sure to check that the locking mechanism works throughout the full stroke of the tensioner.
If the ratchet lock works fine and the tensioner moves freely reset it and refit the spring, to see if the spring is still good.
If the spring isn't physically snapped or broken the tensioner should fully extend readily , if it doesn't then the spring may have lost tension and needs replacing.
@@nexus7tablet610 how would i determine if the chain is stretched without ripping the engine down ? I have a ltz400 that has slap .. id rather not rip it down an put a new chain in if i can just get away with a manual adjuster it runs great etc was only trail ridden n never saw limiter till last year " didnt have it out this year " if that matters just trying to give as much info as i can !
@@dyllenger there should be specs for your cam chain, you have to measure the length between so many links with the chain under tension.
Unfortunately this will likely mean removal from the engine to measure, by which time you might as well replace it as a matter of course.
I want to know the pros and cons of doing this. Im tracking my 07 daytona 675
The pro is you don't have to worry about the OEM spring/ratchet system braking and loosing all cam chain tension.
The con is you have to make sure it stays properly tensioned, most people do it because it looks cool and never adjust it.
Personally, I've only seen one OEM go bad, I converted that OEM to a manual. (Video on my channel)
On a regular bike for track days and trails, I would keep the OEM tensioner in.
video starts at 2:46
While adjusting does the bike gotta be turn on to adjusting it or off
I would reccomend off
Does this promote more wear on the cam chain?
No I wouldn't say so. The stock one is a spring one with constant pressure so the manual one if adjusted properly and frequently enough would really be better.
MotoPosh if I'm installing a new cam chain as well how would I adjust it properly?
To set the tensioner adjustment, rotate the engine forward while screwing the tensioner bolt in. When you feel the engine tensioner parts (guide, rollers, etc.) make contact with the moving cam chain, back the tensioner bolt out 1/4 turn and tighten the jam nut. (For the finer pitch thread on the APE Pro Series tensioner it is advised to back the tensioner up 1/2 of a turn.)
Anyone know if there’s videos for a 400ex installing manual tensioner. Changing mine to a manual but I’m new to it
the position of piston not matter, you not changing the chain, its just a tensioner
Don't you have to be top dead centre on compression not exhaust
cam lobes down on tdc is when u adjust
excellent
Don't SKO also have arm deal with Ukraine and USA? So what fuss is all about?
You dont need to be a tdc to do this. Really the only way you'll jump time is by cranking the motor without the tensioner in. Most all engines cam guides keep the chain from jumping a tooth when turned by hand. Uh you didn't set the tension right either. This is why i do this for a living. To fix what others shouldn't touch.
Question then sir,,, I have the 2011 Concourse 14 and want to put in this manual Cct.. Is this done pretty much the same way here?. I'll put it in gear and lock the brakes so no TDC required, pull the old hydraulic one out, put the new one in screw adjusting bolt till good resistance is felt then back out 1/2 turn then tighten both mounting screws. Does that work and or what might you do different?
Thank you
Stick with your stock chain tensioners guys
Stock chain tensioners on older bikes are terrible. The manual adjusters work great and keep it adjusted properly at any engine speed.
😊
Is there really anything wrong with how the factory tensioner operates? No matter how worn your timing chain gets it will NOT jump timing with the stock tensioner. There is a reason it was designed the way it was designed. I trust Yamaha and have bought their products for years with no problems. If it isn't broken, don't fix it!
Some makes have hydraulic tensioners, some are self wratcheting and some fail, when they fail they can produce to much or not enough tension on the chain which can cause adverse and abnormal wear. The manual gives you more control over your own situation so you have a choice..
Should have checked the chain make sure it wasn't lose u never did that
if you messaged me i could have just modified your oem tensioner to make it manual. im a cnc machinist.
Would like to know how please
whats the procedure to convert it to manual ??
hm. well, it would have to be taken apart, i still have the fixture i used in my tool box to drill the threads and tap new ones into it, and had to machine a new screw because ace hardware didnt have a long enough bolt to use as an adjuster.
however. this was done to my DRZ400sm. it works just as good, if not better than the ones youd buy from a store because i CNC machine my bolt, and tap it myself. most things made by machinists are several times better in quality.
sorry guys. unsure how to explain the procedure. its just... .... i do it... thats all....
wait were you the one that messaged me? i got something in my inbox from you. however... i am not sure how to open it lol
@@1Corinthians151to4 how much would that cost?
Ne biçim tamir acemi
When you have an oil cooled GSXR engine and the cam chain is in the center of the bike. FACK
Good video but way to many "Go aheads"!
This is not a recommended mod ... manufactures used this bolt/nut combo (or manual chain tensioner method) in the past (early 90s and 80s) and it was an evolution to go to the spring self adjusting chain tensioner. You can damage prematurely the chain and the guide rails ... Please stop doing this crazy things just because "others" did it !!!
If you have too many slack in the chain just buy a new chain and tensioner !!! I always hated mods that can cause problems instead of solving them. People will buy this crap and they will overtighten the chain "so no power gets robbed" (another stupidity) and they will damage their chain and guides prematurely and end up having to buy an OEM chain + tensioner let's not talk about engine rebuilds because of chains that might break due to abnormally high tension applied to them ...
So people please think twice and think about the engineering team and resources put into making and designing an engine. Do NOT do stupid mods that will make your wallet suffer later.
This is perfectly fine ATV that should have run with that stock chain tensioner for years and years to come !
If you must know.. I reinstalled the OEM spring tensioner. This video was meant to show the install process on any engine. I'm sure you know some bikes are known to have them fail.. (i.e. my 2007 triumph Daytona). Many people including myself switch to manual tensioners in this case because we're better off adjusting a manual one rather than waiting for the inevitable failure of the OEM one. On the Raptor the OEM ones are fine and aren't known to be a problem thats why I reinstalled mine.. but I did run the Manual one I installed in this video for months with zero problems. In my opinion, they're safe as long as you monitor and adjust them properly. Also I definitely did not install this as a power mod haha, thats dumb. And I tried my best to emphasize it should not be over tightened or too loose as engine failure can result. Thanks for your comment
You are not correct. There is not a single professional team MOTOGP or Superbike that uses an automatic tensioner. That is because Manuals are more relyable. BUT manual tensioners chain tension has to be re-checked for the correct tension periodically where automatics do not. But some automatics have proven to be unrelyable because of tearing housing and breaking springs. If you are going to check the chain tension every year or so you should get a manual tensioner. if you have 2 left hands you should get an automatic and have it installed by a dealer.
Appreciate your opinion but you have to understand one thing; mechanism or mechanicals do fail. There isn't any proven man made technology that would last a lifetime.
@@khairirais Try telling that to Nokia...
@Lucian Pop that may be your opinion, but it is an incorrect one. Automatic cam chain tensioners have been known to fail, ever since they started using them. When they fail, cam jumps timing, then comes piston to valve contact. You are welcome to keep your automatic cct, and wonder what that weird sound is,when your cam chain is loose, but I would rather spend $40 on a manual tensioner, than possibly a complete head, piston and cylinder, because the stock tensioner failed.
Fail, don't watch this video to the end and use the advice.
Why?
Than you for video good sir
great video, thank you