My ShopSmith Jointer is mounted on my Power stand... one of the great features of the ShopSmith Jointer is the fence when locked in to 90 degrees it stays put... I watch a lot of woodworking videos and the new portable Jointers all of them seem to have fence problems locking that 90 degree right angle in... I use that old WD-40 and Scotch-Brite®rust remover and then wax method all the time. My shop in in my garage so winter and high humidity plague me all the time. I would love to have a 8" spiral or helical Jointer, but I have a 735 deWalt Planer which does what I need done in the shop... "square an edge!" I watched the episode with Nick Engler that was great I have his books from years ago when I got my ShopSmith in the 1980's... The videos are full of good stuff keep up the good work!
Excited to have found you! Recently inherited a full Mark V Shopsmith system.... all still in the boxes... they were stored in a basement so the boxes where wrecked, but all the parts are here. All have surface rust! Excited to binge your channel!
Nice to meet you and glad to have you here. That’s quite an inheritance and yes, you will have some work to do, but that’s awesome! Look around at what is already on my channel and let me know if you need anything. I will soon be returning to my normal two video a week schedule.
Thanks for the great information you share. My shopsmith is 35 years old and has every upgrade. I have never gotten the full benefits from my new Scroll Saw, I'd love to see a video on how to use it.
Thanks Kay. I have the Mark V mounted Shopsmith scroll saw, but in the past have owned the freestanding version. Which do you have and what color is it? It was grey and went through a couple changes over the years and finally was changed to teal, which is what mine is. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I have the gray Mark V mounted unit. I have never felt like i am getting the best results from it. I have almost every other accessory and they all work great.
@@ckaynx Sorry for the game of 20 questions, but these answers really do help me understand the situation. Does your table have a jig cast into the two back edges, for assembling the blade into the blocks, or does it have a rectangular hole stamped near the front, or no accommodations. For assembling the blades and blocks besides a little hand held jig? Scott
A suggestion for a jointer video: sharpening jointer blades and reinstalling them. The wedges used to secure the blades seem to make getting the blade height uniform - at least for me. I just finished watching all of your videos on TH-cam. They are very informative. Thank you.
I wonder how many old shopsmiths you've saved. A nice gentleman in columbus gave me his dads 510 bought in 85 with every upgrade imaginable. Most still in the box. I brought it home to Dayton and am trying to do right by the former owners. Thanks for your help.
Thank you for all of your expert advice on this channel - you have helped me greatly with my Shopsmith (acquired in Oct 2021). I now have a jointer that has a little rust and I want to clean it and use the wash protection you suggest. I don't think you ever said how you apply the wash other than stating you were not going to brush it on. So, is it sprayed on or wiped on? Thanks.
Another good one,waiting to see how poly works ? Looking forward, to Q&A . Keep them coming. Great job , PS . 520 fence filled in nice ,used loctite 2 part system for aluminum. Blended nice and flat. Thanks for the help
It seems to be like firing the winning shot. And thankfully I remembered that I was planning to use it just as my biceps were starting to yell at me! Scott
I really have thought about updating a original 1980 Shopsmith jointer with the feather guard, and the dust collector port. I should and believe I will now.
I am a new subscriber. I just repacked the grease bearings on my bandsaw upper wheel after watching that video. Nice! I have a 50+ year old jointer of my dads for my Shopsmith and it has some rust. The thing has been sitting up in the attic because it is a bit rusty and I don't trust that it is sharp and aligned properly. This video has inspired me to get it out, and recondition it. Thanks!!! However, I echo others here -- I really need to know how to sharpen the blades and assure they are aligned properly. I'm looking forward to that video. Please boost on your priority list. :)
That’s a very good question. Typically I’m working with S2S FAS lumber, which isn’t typically too cupped. I used to use some Select grade lumber and it was a pain in the butt due to cupping. I do have a 6” jointer in my shop and used to have an 8” and access to a 14”, but after switching to FAS I haven’t had much need for surface jointing. Good question! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings That's cheating having a 6" jointer. Have you ever used the Shopsmith jointer and cut the board down to fit and then glued it back together?
@@rdhelm I suppose it is, but I never use it. That’s the jointer I mentioned was under a cover in my shop collecting rust. Yes, I have done exactly as you describe. I purchased a couple hundred board feet of cherry once that was terribly cupped but otherwise gorgeous. I wound up ripping it on the bandsaw to prevent pinching of the sawblade, and I surface jointed it before reassembly. It was a lot of work and I swore I’d never do it again! Scott
Hey Scott, not sure if you've covered it in another video, I bought a jointer that I've cleaned up the bed like you have, how can I tell if the bearings are good or should be replaced?
That’s such a subjective call, and no, I haven’t really discussed it. You can almost instinctively tell by spinning the shaft at the hub if the bearing feel too Ty, or free spinning or if there is any grind or play in them. They are very easy to replace and also rather inexpensive, so it in doubt, replace them.
Hi Scott, I like your formula weekend post and mid-week touch base. Question: at the beginning of the video, you mentioned that you sharpen your cutting blades, what is the angle? and will you provide tips on how to do it in a future video? Thanks in advance
Thanks for that feedback and confirmation. As for the angle, I'm not even sure. I just match the angle that is already there, which it turns out isn't really all that critical. Scott
Hi Scott, any interest in selling your Total Shop jointer or any other additions of the Total Shop? I have the band saw so I am interested in other tools.
I know of a few that have installed one on a SS 12” planer, but I don’t believe that anyone has reported installing one on a 4” jointer. Is one even available?
Hey Glen. Yes, Robert is correct. If I were to leave it at that there would be a touch of an oily residue left behind, but since I will be following the mineral spirits with either paste wax or in my case, an oil based poly, which both contain mineral spirits, I won’t have a problem. If I truly wanted to have zero residue I would follow the paint thinner with either lacquer thinner or alcohol to remove the residue. Great question! Scott
Scott, just bought a jointer and it shipped completely disassembled. When assembling the outfeed table to the infeed table, there is 3 flat washers and 2 spring washers. Can u tell me in which fashion those should go. I’ve tried putting them on both sides of the stud and the cutter hits the table. I’m just not doing something right?
They go on after the two casting parts are together in this order: washer, spring, washer, spring, washer. I suggest looking in the Facebook Owners Group files folder or perhaps even on VintageMachinery.com to see if there’s a manual, because there’s an exploded view of the parts in the back. Scott
I've got a shopsmith I got from a coworker and it's got rusty tubes, any good method to recondition those? The Jointer I got is similar condition as this one, so I'll be using this method on the jointer for sure
There are several methods that work, but far and away my favorite is to use a product called EvapoRust. You can get it online or from Harbor Freight and it works amazingly well to get the bulk of the rust gone. From there you just need to polish them a bit with ScotchBrite and WD40.
@@MyGrowthRings thanks! I take it I'll just be coating it with EvapoRust and wiping it off since the tubes are so large? or should I do a full disassembly and try to find a way to soak the tubes in a large containter? I've used Evaporust before on smaller things so it's always been a dunk and soak in a small container
@@RichyN25 The best approach is to wet some cloth or even paper towels with the Evaporust and wrap that around the tubes and then wrap that with saran wrap or stretch wrap to hold it tight to the tubes overnight. Whatever you do, do not slide the headstock or the carriage over the rusty tubes.
The washer under the nut holding the guard on appears to be a cupped, or "Belleville" washer, which is supposed to have the "cup" facing the bottom of the board, so that the tension from the nut is more evenly spread on the bottom of the guard. They are commonly seen under the nuts holding lawnmower blades to their shafts. Thanks for another informative video. (P.S. Unless those white EarPods are being used as hearing protectors or for critical communications while on camera, they tend to attract attention to those trendy items and detract from your message, IMO.)
You are right, that may very well be a Belleville washer, in which case your advise is correct. And yes, the AirPods are being used for the audio and I wish they weren't there, but without them the audio is awful, as noted by several of my earlier videos when I wasn't using them. I've purchased a wireless mic, but haven't had the time to figure it out. Scott
What is that on the back side of the jointer real clear at 7:28, looks like a cover for the power connector, mine doesn't have that, and I can't see it in the parts diagram from shopsmith..
@@MyGrowthRings aah, no wonder I couldn't find it in the jointer diagram. Have you tried butcher block oil on saw tops/planer tops? I've made knives for 30 years, and after I finish sharpening them, I rub them with a thin coat of butcher block oil and let it dry, and they stay looking new for decades. I coated all the tubes inside and out on my shopsmith when I first got it 88, then waxed the outsides and no rust on them at all. I was considering putting on my jointer, when I get through evaporusting it.
@@fordcrews3362 No, ai would be concerned with it transferring to my wood and potentially messing with my finish or joinery. It’s probably a totally unfounded fear, but a fear nonetheless! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I'm pretty sure it wouldh't stain wood, it's mineral oil, beeswax, and carnauba wax, hardens like a varnish, is super slick surface, that doesn't need buffing like j&j after it dries. I used to have an after school job in high school cleaning the sewing machines at a local factory that made dress shirts, and we used it on the presser feet, thread loops, needle plate, and the beds, because it made them slick so cloth would glide over them and seemed to repel cloth dust.
Hi, being across the pond (Hebden Bridge, UK) I have very little access to Shopsmith parts or advice. A few years ago I wanted to put a rebate on a wide piece of wood which involved me removing the feather guard. Oops I grabbed the black knob on top and simply turned it anti-clockwise and took it off and then the feather guard. Now several years later I cannot remember how to re-assemble it and what components there should be. I have the black knob and the spring, at the time I did not remove the stud or the two circlips. I now appear to have the stud intact complete with the two circlips, the feather guard, a coiled spring and a black knob which appears to have a set screw in it that doesn't turn. Any suggestions or a little video of its assembly would be great. Just come across your channel and have subscribed and will now back track through your other videos.
Hey Mark, welcome. There's actually an instruction manual that might be helpful. Check this out and be sure to report back. Scott www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/download/file.php?id=41251
Hi Scott thank you very much for getting back to me, I have downloaded the file you have sent me and will endeavour to see if I can reconstruct the fence to working order. I will of course keep in contact with you and let you know the outcome. Mark
Recently got a 500. Have the old school aluminum guard and it just has a hex bolt that holds it to the jointer with no washer or nut on the bottom. How do I get tension so it puts pressure against the stock going through?
first, I really enjoy your videos! Is there a tool for setting the knives on the planer? One other question, I picked up one of the old shopsmith books, it's packed away right now so I can't give you the exact year of the copyright, it was in the mid 1950's. The bandsaw had a table that had two miter slots @ 90 deg. The book show the miter being used as a fence for the saw. Any idea why Shopsmith went away from that style of table? Thanks again for your content!
Yes, there is a very simple, yet effective stamped steel gauge for the SS Planer. If you meant SS jointer, SS never made one but they did sell the Magna-Set at one point and it works, but isn’t really any easier than the method in the owners manual. As for the bandsaw table, SS introduced the larger aluminum table for the bandsaw to accommodate the t-slot miter gauge, and while they were at it they decided that the timing was right to introduce a fence, which wasn’t really a thing back in the 50’s when the saw was introduced, but was a very popular request in the late 80’s.
@@MyGrowthRings thanks, yes the planer is a SS. I will order the stamped steel gauge. I just moved into the city (Kennewick WA) and went from 2000+ sq ft of shop to 300 sq ft. I have a SS 510 that I bought new in the early 90's. It's been stored for about 10 years. Selling off all the other tools to reduce the foot print. Cant wait for your next video! GT
@@gregtrim2356 That’s quite a challenge, but you’ve picked the right tools for the job. Just this past weekend I was having the same conversation with a buddy who has a new-to-him Shopsmith planer and he used the gauge for the first time and said he was thrilled with how well such a simple tools works. You’ve got this.
Hey Scott, the video is well timed. I too need to refurbish my SS jointer and I appreciate you doing this. In a somewhat unrelated question regarding a bench did you get your SS bench refurbished? I’m wanting to build one and have considered MDF. I’m in upstate SC and humidity is an issue do you think it would work in an unheated garage?
No, I believe that it's too far gone from being stored outside by the previous owner. I would have to break apart every glue line, resurface and re-glue to make it sound again, and even at that I'm not certain that the wood itself isn't compromised. For now it's just a table to store things on. Really makes me sad because it deserved better than that. MDF can work but you'll want to seal it very well with either paint or poly because it will suck up humidity like a sponge. You might want to consider using it or plywood with a sacrificial and replaceable surface of tempered Masonite. Being in NC I know all about the South's humidity! Scott
Yes, they were originally covered with a layer of oil and a VCI Paper, or Vapor Corrosion Inhibitor paper, but once we remove them they will rust pretty fast without wax. It's a frustrating how-do-you-do, for sure! Scott
Nick Engler's most recent video also covered removing rust from tools. Watch it here: th-cam.com/video/ZVeY9d5Xk2Q/w-d-xo.html check out the Workshop Companion Channel: th-cam.com/channels/k480B1pofOjThMfkBjhDpQ.html And if you want clear, concise information on any woodworking topic, visit the Workshop Companion web site: workshopcompanion.com/
I have done this a few times ( my garage holds high moisture). My fix to all rust is dry moly or blowtorch and heat metal and put old non synthetic old on it works for 6-8 months. We all have our ways just mine and I use spry polyurethane on tools that I only use time to time works amazing. Hey I see that you have a service band on your right wrist, is this correct?
Heat is excellent for opening the pores on metal, so I can see how that would work. My now diciest oldest sister was a silversmith, and she asked me that if she would make me a piece of jewelry that I would actually wear, what would it have to be. I've never worn much more jewelry than my wedding ring and a watch, but I remembered an old POW bracelet that I wore for several years and that got me to thinking about what I would want something like a cuff to look like. Ultimately I had her fashion it in the style of the bent-wood Shaker boxes that I enjoy making. Not only did she use one of the actual templates that I use, but she even got the copper nails from me to integrate into it. She stamped her hallmark and her name along with all four of my sister's names, plus added a few other funny personal touches. She's been gone a couple years now and I cherish it and never remove it. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I have noticed your bracelet in almost all of your videos. When I first saw the joint in the band; I said to myself, that's a Shaker box joint on his bracelet, even before you did a segment in your video on Shaker boxes. I have been meaning to ask if there was any inscriptions on it, and who made it. Your sister sounds like she was a wonderful person. I'm glad you have something from her that is always with you, just as I'm sure the memories of her always will be as well. Very nice piece, Scott.
She really was a wonderful person. At 57 she was taken too young, but we were blessed to have her five years longer than what her doctor predicted. Another if my sisters is very talented in glass bead making (who know that was a thing?) and inherited my older sister’s jewelry making tools and supplies and has been making some beautiful pieces lately. Check her out on Instagram @Julie.Nordine_jewelry.artglass
I used to work in a machine shop where we used pump spray bottles for wd40. When I left I bought a gallon of wd40 and a couple pump spray bottles that should last me 10 years. I've seen my share of aerosol wd40 cans run out of gas before it runs dry. Or the can gets dropped and the nozzle breaks off
It doesn't always have to be removed, but because I was planning on applying a layer of poly over the cast iron I needed it gone. WD40 contains oil and naphtha, which was going to be a problem with the H2O based poly, which I was experimenting with. I think I may have talked about this a bit in the follow-up video, found here: th-cam.com/video/FnTPtNAwREI/w-d-xo.html Good question, Scott
Please emphasize to Shopsmith jointer owners to never put and up or down force on the fence or not to over tighten the jointer fence hold down. This will bend to the breaking point the cast aluminum quadrant.
I don't understand why nobody has mentioned white distilled vinegar. It is a lot cheaper than wd40. I have had to deal with rust few have had to deal with. Soak paper towels and let them sit on all face surfaces. I do use the scotch brite pads. Yes I do use the polyurethane to coat. I don't care if you have pitting. Vinegar kills rust when it is bad.
I believe that someone did mention it in the follow-up video, but that's channel member only content. Yes, any acid, vinegar included, will eat the rust. Scott
Hey there Scott. Just following up on a previous question I asked you a few months ago. Is it still possible for you to do a tutorial on removing and reinstalling new blades on the Shopsmith 12" Thickness Planer? I believe you said you had a neighbor who had one. Not sure if that is still the case, but I sure would like to replace my blades and the owner's manual is somewhat difficult, if not cumbersome to follow, and I was hoping you had some cool tricks to make this an easier task to get it right the first time. I saw a magnetic jig on Amazon that might work to hold the blades in place while tightening the blades, but I wasn't sure if that jig would work. Here's the link to that jig. Thanks. John www.amazon.com/Woodstock-W1226A-Mini-Planer-Pal-Pair/dp/B0000DD1VL/ref=sr_1_21?crid=K0PRN74ZWOLG&dchild=1&keywords=planer+blade+jig&qid=1619215006&sprefix=planer+blade+%2Caps%2C417&sr=8-21
Hey John, Yeah, it's a buddy who lives a ways away from me, but I'm sure we'll get around to the planer eventually. Unfortunately, the Planer Pal won't work on the Shopsmith planer for the same reason that similar magnetic knife setting tools don't work on the Shopsmith 4" jointer, and that's because of the wedge shape of the knives and the way they are held in place. When we tighten the wedges against the wedge-shaped knives they are pulled into the cutter head against the leveling screws. You'd think you could use them to set the leveling screws, but they just don't get you close enough. When I worked at Shopsmith during the "Woodworking Unlimited" era we tested several tools like this because we even offered them for use with Jet tools, but they just didn't work on the Shopsmith tools. Good thought, though. Scott
Its also great to prepare a square board into an octogonal or hexagonal board in preparation for turning!
My ShopSmith Jointer is mounted on my Power stand... one of the great features of the ShopSmith Jointer is the fence when locked in to 90 degrees it stays put... I watch a lot of woodworking videos and the new portable Jointers all of them seem to have fence problems locking that 90 degree right angle in... I use that old WD-40 and Scotch-Brite®rust remover and then wax method all the time. My shop in in my garage so winter and high humidity plague me all the time. I would love to have a 8" spiral or helical Jointer, but I have a 735 deWalt Planer which does what I need done in the shop... "square an edge!" I watched the episode with Nick Engler that was great I have his books from years ago when I got my ShopSmith in the 1980's... The videos are full of good stuff keep up the good work!
This method plus varnish has kept my jointer like new! So far so good! Im in the process of doing this for the belt sanding platform as well!
Great to hear!
Scott thanks for this video! I live in SE Tx on the salt water and we must be the rust capital of the country!
I've heard that!
Thanks for another great video Scott. I am still thinking of your daughter and your whole family. Please get well and stay well and safe.
Thanks, Mark. I meant to mention them because their tests have come back negative, so yeah God!!! Thanks for your prayers and for checking in. Scott
Excited to have found you! Recently inherited a full Mark V Shopsmith system.... all still in the boxes... they were stored in a basement so the boxes where wrecked, but all the parts are here. All have surface rust! Excited to binge your channel!
Nice to meet you and glad to have you here. That’s quite an inheritance and yes, you will have some work to do, but that’s awesome! Look around at what is already on my channel and let me know if you need anything. I will soon be returning to my normal two video a week schedule.
SWEEEEEET !! Lucky you !! Enjoy and work safe !!
Thank you again for another good video.
Thanks John. Scott
Good info on joiner
Thanks for the great information you share. My shopsmith is 35 years old and has every upgrade. I have never gotten the full benefits from my new Scroll Saw, I'd love to see a video on how to use it.
Thanks Kay. I have the Mark V mounted Shopsmith scroll saw, but in the past have owned the freestanding version. Which do you have and what color is it? It was grey and went through a couple changes over the years and finally was changed to teal, which is what mine is. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I have the gray Mark V mounted unit. I have never felt like i am getting the best results from it. I have almost every other accessory and they all work great.
@@ckaynx Sorry for the game of 20 questions, but these answers really do help me understand the situation. Does your table have a jig cast into the two back edges, for assembling the blade into the blocks, or does it have a rectangular hole stamped near the front, or no accommodations. For assembling the blades and blocks besides a little hand held jig? Scott
A suggestion for a jointer video: sharpening jointer blades and reinstalling them. The wedges used to secure the blades seem to make getting the blade height uniform - at least for me.
I just finished watching all of your videos on TH-cam. They are very informative. Thank you.
Thanks for watching and yes, we will get to that, for sure. Scott
Thanks Mark. This is a big help. I'm always wrestling with this rust issue, especially on the tools I don't use often.
It’s what they do, for sure.
@@MyGrowthRings and another apology Scott - got to get your name right.
It’ll come.
I wonder how many old shopsmiths you've saved. A nice gentleman in columbus gave me his dads 510 bought in 85 with every upgrade imaginable. Most still in the box. I brought it home to Dayton and am trying to do right by the former owners. Thanks for your help.
Wow, what a gift!
Thank you for all of your expert advice on this channel - you have helped me greatly with my Shopsmith (acquired in Oct 2021). I now have a jointer that has a little rust and I want to clean it and use the wash protection you suggest. I don't think you ever said how you apply the wash other than stating you were not going to brush it on. So, is it sprayed on or wiped on? Thanks.
Hey, I got to meet Nick Engler today!
Cool! How did that happen?
Commenting back and forth on his videos, and then emails. Invited me to his shop. Very nice and well equipped. Fascinating man.
@@chadnevels246 He sure is! Glad you got to spend time with him.
Another good one,waiting to see how poly works ? Looking forward, to Q&A .
Keep them coming. Great job ,
PS . 520 fence filled in nice ,used loctite 2 part system for aluminum. Blended nice and flat. Thanks for the help
That sounds like the prefect choice. Let me know how it holds up. Scott
Will use that sander trick with the scotch Brite pad for sure
It seems to be like firing the winning shot. And thankfully I remembered that I was planning to use it just as my biceps were starting to yell at me! Scott
Nice video thanks
I really have thought about updating a original 1980 Shopsmith jointer with the feather guard, and the dust collector port. I should and believe I will now.
Those are both easy retrofits and are worth the effort. Scott
I am a new subscriber. I just repacked the grease bearings on my bandsaw upper wheel after watching that video. Nice! I have a 50+ year old jointer of my dads for my Shopsmith and it has some rust. The thing has been sitting up in the attic because it is a bit rusty and I don't trust that it is sharp and aligned properly. This video has inspired me to get it out, and recondition it. Thanks!!! However, I echo others here -- I really need to know how to sharpen the blades and assure they are aligned properly. I'm looking forward to that video. Please boost on your priority list. :)
Thanks for the feedback, Chris and thanks for subbing. Scott
Hello I’m watching all you videos they are very good I’m just wondering if you sell parts to repair
Thanks for watching. No, Shopsmith is still in business and still sells parts for most of their tools. Are you looking for a hard-to-find part? Scott
You mentioned that the Shopsmith jointer is narrow to surface a board. How do you s4s rough lumber?
That’s a very good question. Typically I’m working with S2S FAS lumber, which isn’t typically too cupped. I used to use some Select grade lumber and it was a pain in the butt due to cupping. I do have a 6” jointer in my shop and used to have an 8” and access to a 14”, but after switching to FAS I haven’t had much need for surface jointing. Good question! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings That's cheating having a 6" jointer. Have you ever used the Shopsmith jointer and cut the board down to fit and then glued it back together?
@@rdhelm I suppose it is, but I never use it. That’s the jointer I mentioned was under a cover in my shop collecting rust. Yes, I have done exactly as you describe. I purchased a couple hundred board feet of cherry once that was terribly cupped but otherwise gorgeous. I wound up ripping it on the bandsaw to prevent pinching of the sawblade, and I surface jointed it before reassembly. It was a lot of work and I swore I’d never do it again! Scott
Hey Scott, not sure if you've covered it in another video, I bought a jointer that I've cleaned up the bed like you have, how can I tell if the bearings are good or should be replaced?
That’s such a subjective call, and no, I haven’t really discussed it. You can almost instinctively tell by spinning the shaft at the hub if the bearing feel too Ty, or free spinning or if there is any grind or play in them. They are very easy to replace and also rather inexpensive, so it in doubt, replace them.
Hi Scott, I like your formula weekend post and mid-week touch base. Question: at the beginning of the video, you mentioned that you sharpen your cutting blades, what is the angle? and will you provide tips on how to do it in a future video? Thanks in advance
Thanks for that feedback and confirmation. As for the angle, I'm not even sure. I just match the angle that is already there, which it turns out isn't really all that critical. Scott
Hi Scott, any interest in selling your Total Shop jointer or any other additions of the Total Shop? I have the band saw so I am interested in other tools.
Not really. I'm still in hoarding mode, but perhaps someday. Keep an eye on Craigslist and eBay as they pop up all the time. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings OK, thanks for responding so quickly! Keep me in mind if you change your mind!
Has anyone installed spiral cut head in the SS unit?
I know of a few that have installed one on a SS 12” planer, but I don’t believe that anyone has reported installing one on a 4” jointer. Is one even available?
Curious about the paint thinner. Does it leave a residue that might cause problems with the paste wax? Glen
I think the wax has mineral spirits in it.
Hey Glen. Yes, Robert is correct. If I were to leave it at that there would be a touch of an oily residue left behind, but since I will be following the mineral spirits with either paste wax or in my case, an oil based poly, which both contain mineral spirits, I won’t have a problem. If I truly wanted to have zero residue I would follow the paint thinner with either lacquer thinner or alcohol to remove the residue. Great question! Scott
Scott, just bought a jointer and it shipped completely disassembled. When assembling the outfeed table to the infeed table, there is 3 flat washers and 2 spring washers. Can u tell me in which fashion those should go. I’ve tried putting them on both sides of the stud and the cutter hits the table. I’m just not doing something right?
They go on after the two casting parts are together in this order: washer, spring, washer, spring, washer. I suggest looking in the Facebook Owners Group files folder or perhaps even on VintageMachinery.com to see if there’s a manual, because there’s an exploded view of the parts in the back. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings thanks man!!
@@neiljackson2799 You are welcome.
@@MyGrowthRings Scott do u have a website or a way to send u pics to communicate better??
@@neiljackson2799 Sure. You can email me at ScottMarkwood(at)gmail(dot)com
I've got a shopsmith I got from a coworker and it's got rusty tubes, any good method to recondition those? The Jointer I got is similar condition as this one, so I'll be using this method on the jointer for sure
There are several methods that work, but far and away my favorite is to use a product called EvapoRust. You can get it online or from Harbor Freight and it works amazingly well to get the bulk of the rust gone. From there you just need to polish them a bit with ScotchBrite and WD40.
@@MyGrowthRings thanks! I take it I'll just be coating it with EvapoRust and wiping it off since the tubes are so large? or should I do a full disassembly and try to find a way to soak the tubes in a large containter? I've used Evaporust before on smaller things so it's always been a dunk and soak in a small container
@@RichyN25 The best approach is to wet some cloth or even paper towels with the Evaporust and wrap that around the tubes and then wrap that with saran wrap or stretch wrap to hold it tight to the tubes overnight. Whatever you do, do not slide the headstock or the carriage over the rusty tubes.
@@MyGrowthRings Sounds like a plan! Thanks a ton!
@@RichyN25 Let me know how it works out. Whatever you do, don’t use the potato method!
Thanks for this info Scott. My jointer is not rusted, but the bed has become dark. Would it need to be cleaned as you have done for rust?
It wouldn't have to be, but I think you'd be amazed how a little elbow grease will make it shine like new. Scott
The washer under the nut holding the guard on appears to be a cupped, or "Belleville" washer, which is supposed to have the "cup" facing the bottom of the board, so that the tension from the nut is more evenly spread on the bottom of the guard. They are commonly seen under the nuts holding lawnmower blades to their shafts. Thanks for another informative video.
(P.S. Unless those white EarPods are being used as hearing protectors or for critical communications while on camera, they tend to attract attention to those trendy items and detract from your message, IMO.)
You are right, that may very well be a Belleville washer, in which case your advise is correct. And yes, the AirPods are being used for the audio and I wish they weren't there, but without them the audio is awful, as noted by several of my earlier videos when I wasn't using them. I've purchased a wireless mic, but haven't had the time to figure it out. Scott
What is that on the back side of the jointer real clear at 7:28, looks like a cover for the power connector, mine doesn't have that, and I can't see it in the parts diagram from shopsmith..
It's sold as part of a jointer dust chute upgrade. www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/j_dustchuteretro.htm
@@MyGrowthRings aah, no wonder I couldn't find it in the jointer diagram.
Have you tried butcher block oil on saw tops/planer tops? I've made knives for 30 years, and after I finish sharpening them, I rub them with a thin coat of butcher block oil and let it dry, and they stay looking new for decades. I coated all the tubes inside and out on my shopsmith when I first got it 88, then waxed the outsides and no rust on them at all. I was considering putting on my jointer, when I get through evaporusting it.
@@fordcrews3362 No, ai would be concerned with it transferring to my wood and potentially messing with my finish or joinery. It’s probably a totally unfounded fear, but a fear nonetheless! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I'm pretty sure it wouldh't stain wood, it's mineral oil, beeswax, and carnauba wax, hardens like a varnish, is super slick surface, that doesn't need buffing like j&j after it dries. I used to have an after school job in high school cleaning the sewing machines at a local factory that made dress shirts, and we used it on the presser feet, thread loops, needle plate, and the beds, because it made them slick so cloth would glide over them and seemed to repel cloth dust.
Hi, being across the pond (Hebden Bridge, UK) I have very little access to Shopsmith parts or advice. A few years ago I wanted to put a rebate on a wide piece of wood which involved me removing the feather guard. Oops I grabbed the black knob on top and simply turned it anti-clockwise and took it off and then the feather guard. Now several years later I cannot remember how to re-assemble it and what components there should be. I have the black knob and the spring, at the time I did not remove the stud or the two circlips. I now appear to have the stud intact complete with the two circlips, the feather guard, a coiled spring and a black knob which appears to have a set screw in it that doesn't turn. Any suggestions or a little video of its assembly would be great. Just come across your channel and have subscribed and will now back track through your other videos.
Hey Mark, welcome. There's actually an instruction manual that might be helpful. Check this out and be sure to report back. Scott www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/download/file.php?id=41251
Hi Scott thank you very much for getting back to me, I have downloaded the file you have sent me and will endeavour to see if I can reconstruct the fence to working order. I will of course keep in contact with you and let you know the outcome. Mark
Recently got a 500. Have the old school aluminum guard and it just has a hex bolt that holds it to the jointer with no washer or nut on the bottom. How do I get tension so it puts pressure against the stock going through?
I'll cover that in the follow-up, if you can wait a few days. If not, there are answers on the Shopsmith Forum. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings got it. Got to wind the spring before you put the hex thru thank you
first, I really enjoy your videos! Is there a tool for setting the knives on the planer? One other question, I picked up one of the old shopsmith books, it's packed away right now so I can't give you the exact year of the copyright, it was in the mid 1950's. The bandsaw had a table that had two miter slots @ 90 deg. The book show the miter being used as a fence for the saw.
Any idea why Shopsmith went away from that style of table?
Thanks again for your content!
Yes, there is a very simple, yet effective stamped steel gauge for the SS Planer. If you meant SS jointer, SS never made one but they did sell the Magna-Set at one point and it works, but isn’t really any easier than the method in the owners manual. As for the bandsaw table, SS introduced the larger aluminum table for the bandsaw to accommodate the t-slot miter gauge, and while they were at it they decided that the timing was right to introduce a fence, which wasn’t really a thing back in the 50’s when the saw was introduced, but was a very popular request in the late 80’s.
@@MyGrowthRings thanks, yes the planer is a SS. I will order the stamped steel gauge. I just moved into the city (Kennewick WA) and went from 2000+ sq ft of shop to 300 sq ft. I have a SS 510 that I bought new in the early 90's. It's been stored for about 10 years. Selling off all the other tools to reduce the foot print. Cant wait for your next video!
GT
@@gregtrim2356 That’s quite a challenge, but you’ve picked the right tools for the job. Just this past weekend I was having the same conversation with a buddy who has a new-to-him Shopsmith planer and he used the gauge for the first time and said he was thrilled with how well such a simple tools works. You’ve got this.
Hey Scott, the video is well timed. I too need to refurbish my SS jointer and I appreciate you doing this. In a somewhat unrelated question regarding a bench did you get your SS bench refurbished? I’m wanting to build one and have considered MDF. I’m in upstate SC and humidity is an issue do you think it would work in an unheated garage?
No, I believe that it's too far gone from being stored outside by the previous owner. I would have to break apart every glue line, resurface and re-glue to make it sound again, and even at that I'm not certain that the wood itself isn't compromised. For now it's just a table to store things on. Really makes me sad because it deserved better than that. MDF can work but you'll want to seal it very well with either paint or poly because it will suck up humidity like a sponge. You might want to consider using it or plywood with a sacrificial and replaceable surface of tempered Masonite. Being in NC I know all about the South's humidity! Scott
Can't you use a DA sander?
You bet. As long as you are wet sanding with a fine abrasive and keep it moving a DA sander will work just fine. Scott
I have this exact issue. Bought a Joiner and it's rusted.
Yes, they were originally covered with a layer of oil and a VCI Paper, or Vapor Corrosion Inhibitor paper, but once we remove them they will rust pretty fast without wax. It's a frustrating how-do-you-do, for sure! Scott
Nick Engler's most recent video also covered removing rust from tools.
Watch it here: th-cam.com/video/ZVeY9d5Xk2Q/w-d-xo.html
check out the Workshop Companion Channel: th-cam.com/channels/k480B1pofOjThMfkBjhDpQ.html
And if you want clear, concise information on any woodworking topic, visit the Workshop Companion web site: workshopcompanion.com/
I haven't watched that one yet, but I do like Nick's approach, as long as it doesn't involve potatoes! Thanks for the tip. Scott
No sir, no spuds involved.
I have done this a few times ( my garage holds high moisture). My fix to all rust is dry moly or blowtorch and heat metal and put old non synthetic old on it works for 6-8 months. We all have our ways just mine and I use spry polyurethane on tools that I only use time to time works amazing.
Hey I see that you have a service band on your right wrist, is this correct?
Heat is excellent for opening the pores on metal, so I can see how that would work. My now diciest oldest sister was a silversmith, and she asked me that if she would make me a piece of jewelry that I would actually wear, what would it have to be. I've never worn much more jewelry than my wedding ring and a watch, but I remembered an old POW bracelet that I wore for several years and that got me to thinking about what I would want something like a cuff to look like. Ultimately I had her fashion it in the style of the bent-wood Shaker boxes that I enjoy making. Not only did she use one of the actual templates that I use, but she even got the copper nails from me to integrate into it. She stamped her hallmark and her name along with all four of my sister's names, plus added a few other funny personal touches. She's been gone a couple years now and I cherish it and never remove it. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thats great history there, family is full of trades good sign. Thanks for sharing!
@@MyGrowthRings I have noticed your bracelet in almost all of your videos. When I first saw the joint in the band; I said to myself, that's a Shaker box joint on his bracelet, even before you did a segment in your video on Shaker boxes. I have been meaning to ask if there was any inscriptions on it, and who made it. Your sister sounds like she was a wonderful person. I'm glad you have something from her that is always with you, just as I'm sure the memories of her always will be as well. Very nice piece, Scott.
I agree.
She really was a wonderful person. At 57 she was taken too young, but we were blessed to have her five years longer than what her doctor predicted. Another if my sisters is very talented in glass bead making (who know that was a thing?) and inherited my older sister’s jewelry making tools and supplies and has been making some beautiful pieces lately. Check her out on Instagram @Julie.Nordine_jewelry.artglass
I used to work in a machine shop where we used pump spray bottles for wd40. When I left I bought a gallon of wd40 and a couple pump spray bottles that should last me 10 years. I've seen my share of aerosol wd40 cans run out of gas before it runs dry. Or the can gets dropped and the nozzle breaks off
I don’t use that much of it and if the fan won’t work that’s just another excuse to go to the hardware store!
I'm a big fan of WD40 to battle but I've never thought it needs to be removed -why is this so?
It doesn't always have to be removed, but because I was planning on applying a layer of poly over the cast iron I needed it gone. WD40 contains oil and naphtha, which was going to be a problem with the H2O based poly, which I was experimenting with. I think I may have talked about this a bit in the follow-up video, found here: th-cam.com/video/FnTPtNAwREI/w-d-xo.html Good question, Scott
Please emphasize to Shopsmith jointer owners to never put and up or down force on the fence or not to over tighten the jointer fence hold down. This will bend to the breaking point the cast aluminum quadrant.
Looks like you just did! Thanks, Bill. Scott
You think thats a bucket? Have I got one for you?
I don't understand why nobody has mentioned white distilled vinegar. It is a lot cheaper than wd40. I have had to deal with rust few have had to deal with. Soak paper towels and let them sit on all face surfaces. I do use the scotch brite pads. Yes I do use the polyurethane to coat. I don't care if you have pitting. Vinegar kills rust when it is bad.
I believe that someone did mention it in the follow-up video, but that's channel member only content. Yes, any acid, vinegar included, will eat the rust. Scott
Hey there Scott. Just following up on a previous question I asked you a few months ago. Is it still possible for you to do a tutorial on removing and reinstalling new blades on the Shopsmith 12" Thickness Planer? I believe you said you had a neighbor who had one. Not sure if that is still the case, but I sure would like to replace my blades and the owner's manual is somewhat difficult, if not cumbersome to follow, and I was hoping you had some cool tricks to make this an easier task to get it right the first time. I saw a magnetic jig on Amazon that might work to hold the blades in place while tightening the blades, but I wasn't sure if that jig would work. Here's the link to that jig. Thanks. John www.amazon.com/Woodstock-W1226A-Mini-Planer-Pal-Pair/dp/B0000DD1VL/ref=sr_1_21?crid=K0PRN74ZWOLG&dchild=1&keywords=planer+blade+jig&qid=1619215006&sprefix=planer+blade+%2Caps%2C417&sr=8-21
Hey John, Yeah, it's a buddy who lives a ways away from me, but I'm sure we'll get around to the planer eventually. Unfortunately, the Planer Pal won't work on the Shopsmith planer for the same reason that similar magnetic knife setting tools don't work on the Shopsmith 4" jointer, and that's because of the wedge shape of the knives and the way they are held in place. When we tighten the wedges against the wedge-shaped knives they are pulled into the cutter head against the leveling screws. You'd think you could use them to set the leveling screws, but they just don't get you close enough. When I worked at Shopsmith during the "Woodworking Unlimited" era we tested several tools like this because we even offered them for use with Jet tools, but they just didn't work on the Shopsmith tools. Good thought, though. Scott
Thanks for the feedback, Scott. Glad I didn't make that purchase, then.