4x4 PTO Driven Timber Trailer BUILD Ep.7 - Hydraulically Movable Tow Bar
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- PTO driven 4x4 timber trailer build continues with hydraulically movable tow bar. Finishing the side stabilizer mounts on the right side. Welding on the hydraulic crane base plate ribs. Cutting drive shaft bearing block flange on the homemade CNC plasma table and installing it. Turning hydraulically adjustable tow bar mount bushing and pin on the lathe. Fabricating the tow bar out of 80x80x4mm rectangular tube. Cutting tow bar mount flanges on the CNC plasma table and reaming the pin holes in the lathe. Finally playing around a bit with the geometry of tow bar hydraulic cylinder mounting points. Stay tuned for the next episode & thanks for watching!
Trailer specs:
* 28x11-14" tires & 14" rims
* 1450mm/57" wide; length and height - unknown
* tandem axles with homemade chain housings
* BMW E39 530D differential with 2.81 gearing (identical to the UTV diffs)
* hydraulic crane with a boom & grapple for easier log loading & handling
* independent hydraulic power pack
* radio controlled hydraulic winch on the boom
* load capacity - 1-1,5 metric tonne
My other videos: www.youtube.co...
Support me on: / donndiy
Follow me on: / donndiy
4x4 PTO Driven Timber Trailer BUILD series: • 4x4 PTO Driven Timber ...
Homemade 4x4 UTV build: • 4x4 Off-Road UTV Build
#donndiy #homemade #timbertrailer
Welding equipment borrowed from Spetselektroodi AS, Estonia:
Fronius TransSteel 2700 welder
Optrel Crystal 2.0 Welding Helmet
Hypertherm Powermax 45 XP plasma cutter
More fabrication videos on th-cam.com/users/DonnDIYvideos
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
What kind of pencil is that ?
Я так понял гидроцилиндр нужен чтоб при езде задом можно было рулить.
PPppppp
Would be interesting for u to do a restore or rebuild of the lathe since I first watched u kept thinking 🤔 he's gonna do it one of these days lol
Обажаю твои видео, и восхищаюсь мастерством 👍👍👍🤝
One doesn’t experience self transcendence, the illusion of self only dissipates..🎈
Thanks for sharing 👌👍
Big like 👍👍👍♥️
I had always wanted to build an ATV logging trailer and several years ago watching your series on rebuilding your logging trailer, I was inspired to build my own with my own twist. I built the thing so heavy duty that I have trouble pulling it around. Out of the four quads that I have, only one, my 660 Grizzly will handle the load, meaning the weight of the tongue of the trailer when there isn't a load on it. It collapses the rear suspension so much that the tires rub on the fenders of my other quads. When there's a load on the trailer, it balances the tongue weight a little better. Even my friend's side by side had problems and it bent the trailer hitch for the 2-inch ball. The trailer you are building now looks a lot heavier than mine right now and I'm sure your UTV will pull it just fine. So, now I've decided to build my own UTV! I'm going to have to find a donor vehicle for the build... Thanks for another great idea!
To make great zirk fitting guards. Take a large nut drill out the threads than welded it around your grease fitting hole. 🤔
I use left over pipe trimmings from my scrap piles.. its a lot cheaper than a nut
You can put the cylinder where the drive shaft is, behind the angled metal, and then use a pushrod setup (like in an F1 racing car suspension), using the triangle plate to divert the load around the angled structure, to the draw bar.
It's a strong setup that is also beneficial in the sense that it keeps the cylinder hidden, you can basically put it under the structure, even at an angle (downwards) to keep water from messing the seal. For a pushrod, you can use any piece of shafting that's meant to take a load, but you can also use a tube with thicker walls if you have one gathering dust.
Love the use of old stuff , i have a few cyilinders myself that i'm slowly going thorough, including a hateful one that fell on my foot when i was a kid. I'm saving that one for my brother's manure spreader. :))
I just love to watch you work.
Brilliant video as usual.. Keep up the great work!
Я с тебя поражаюсь, от куда столько замечательных идей 💥💥💥👍🏻
Another well thought out design and of course over built !! Which is great to see.
I like these longer video's being around 30 minutes as well.
They are pretty goooood.
Once again Donn
Cheers from Sydney Australia MATE 🇭🇲👍🦘🐨👍🇭🇲🇪🇪🇪🇪
Great job👍👍👍there is one tip if you don't mind) it will be better if the axis of the D-pad and the hinge under it match. Thus, you will avoid biting the D-pad at high angles of rotation of the trailer.
Your videos are so relaxing to watch
Hi Donn,
Great work as always, people like you are the future.
So refreshing to see what you're capable of, two thumbs up.
Thanks for the video, take care.
While it may still function as is you should still consider trying to align the tongue pivot and prop shaft U-joint.
It’s always amazing to see your method of engineering.
Mirko io i88
Hard, arduous work but the effect is excellent. Best wishes 🥰😘👍
As always you deliver, really enjoy your videos
Great content 👍😎
Uma montagem complexa , conjugada com uma edição de video bem feita é igual a um video agradável de se ver. Parabéns pela edição e pela criação, ambos muito bons !!
I’m going to have to try that cad program out. Looks intuitive enough.
What that cad designer are?
“PRETTY GOOOOD”
Great work Donn ,,it will make a mess if oil in the ram but you could test with air from a blow gun use low air pressure too test .. that way you could see if it will pull back on the ram ,, not sure if you will need a ram on both sides ?? time will tell maybe I will find out in the next video .. keep up the great videos ..
The tongue pivot should be in line with the center of the u-joint.
Doesn't matter, it is not a homokinetic joint
Tractor pto shafts can telescope something like 30 cm. It is actually good for them to move a bit in use so they dont get stuck over time.
Actually the pivot point should be in the centre of the driveshaft. Then the driveshaft cuts the corner and allows a sharper turning radius without such a sharp joint bend. Look at any articulated loader etc and that’s how they are built.
hi you you are a good mechanic boy 😊 good job 💪👏👍👌🇳🇴
Meus parabéns!!! Gosto muito de assistir os seus vídeos!
Love it, nice work!!!
Great job bro 👍😍👌😍👍👌
Shouldn't the tounge pivot be in line with the u joint pivot?
With a collapsing PTO shaft it doesn't need to be lined up with the pivot.
Not necessarily
Looking good
Hey Donn, How do you plan on removing that tongue pin when the pto shaft is in it's way?
PTO removal is for about 2 minutes.
Maybe you've got ideas for this in the future but the pivot pin is oriented in such a way that it will require the removal of the PTO spindle to remove the pin. If you inverted the pin you would be able to remove it separately for repairs or service.
Was just about to make the same comment.
Pretty sure that pin would last roughly 7 lifetimes if greased occasionally.
@@spangenbob
That pin with a keeper tab on one end and nut on the other will never fall out. Never mind that there are several examples of popular OEM companies installing pins from the bottom. Usually because there’s something like a driveshaft or something else above the pin location.
Pretty common for the articulation point on big loaders and 4d tractors for the pin to be in from the bottom
The driveshaft has to come out for Remo Al anyway but no ones lifting a 20kg pin into the artic frame and positioning it in the hole
They make it so you jack it in from the bottom and then a retainer keps it in
More offernt than not the pin doesn't have any keeper welded to the top or bottom its just a straight pin with holes drilled and tapped at both ends, makes it alot easier to machine
So you can choose to bolt the top or bottom keeper on first but of course everyone does bottom first
Not only that, the pivot point of the universal joint should be on the center line of the pin.
Well done!
лайк молодець
I really love your channel and your work is brilliant.
I’m kind of confused about the pivot on the tow bar not aligning with the pivot of the U Joint.
Will this not cause unnecessary telescoping of the driveshaft and an added torque stress at the joint?
I’m reluctant to ask as you seem to really know your stuff but I’m just wondering about this point.
They are made to telescope mate, won’t matter
Good job
a lot of lesson in each video
For your steering I would make a linkage like you see on an excavator bucket. Much better range of motion, same power across the range, and keeps the cylinder out of harms way.
I think I kind of understand what you are trying to do with that cylinder. Disregard this comment if I'm wrong, but you're trying to make it so that when you turn, the movable trailer hitch follows you so you don't bend the driveline? If that is so, I would recommend using another pivot point right before your hitch pin and then make the hitch mount more stationary on your utv. Then you can run what I would refer to as a "Z" link underneath so that the trailer will follow better without kinking the driveshaft so to speak. What I mean by this is taking another solid bar and running it to a pivot point on the left on either the front or the back and then to the opposite side on the opposing pivot point. This would also help making your turns more of the same radius and take stress off of the whole system. I think this might be a simpler solution than trying to work out the cylinders, but I could be wrong. If I'm wrong in my assumption, sorry for making you read a wall of text. By no means am I trying to tell you what to do, just a friendly bit of advice from one internet stranger to another. I have been thoroughly enjoying this build series.
The drive shaft is likely going to be a standard PTO shaft. Which expands and closes. Think a bar inside a pipe. Which is why its only going to bend one direction I think. Yet I am not sure.
Yeah, I get that, but it's still pretty easy to stress that front U joint. I have that problem on my baler, and I have been thinking about redoing the hitch.
Great work n Vid .
Thanks 👍🏻
Complimenti 👍👍👍👍👍👍🤙🤙
Doesn’t the tongue pivot point need to be along the same axis as the drive axel pivot point?
From what it looks like to me, he is going to use a PTO shaft that has plenty of travel built into it already. Thus eliminating the need for the pivot point on the same axis of the trive axle.
@@1983bronc The length of the PTO shaft isn't the problem. It's the angle of the U joint when he is negotiating corners.
@@anan0moose with the pto connections being further away from the pivot points the angles of the universal joints should be less.
I can’t wait to see how this gonna work Is like one that is just a hydraulic dump trailer I’ve got everything but the motor and pump everything else is built. I just don’t want to spend so much money on the electric pump
two thumbs up
As soon as I thought, a hydraulic cylinder would make a great addition, you put it out...
:-D
Will make it like the swedish Bändvägn, nice!
What about a steering rack added over the tow bar? Would the power steering pump handle a second one?
;-)
Thx for showing, great build!
I bet you'll end up breaking this, and just welding it up solid in the future. But that's ok, I don't think the pivot will even be necessary in the end.
Looking PRETTY- GOOD Donn. It's going to be awesome when you're through building it. Fantastic fabrication skill !! Thanks for sharing with us, Fred.
I am jelly of that hoard of fasteners you have on the floor behind the trailer. That is several lifetimes worth of scavenging.
Looks like that cylinder may interfere with your future pto yoke. And the tow bar pin should be removable with out disassembling the pto bearing assembly. Just my 2 cents
Always great content. I'm curious why @12:25 you didn't keep going and drill the pilot hole for the other side of the square tube. It would have avoided needing to mark out the other side - saving a bit of time and guaranteeing the holes were aligned.. Does the mag mount for the drill not have the range to get the pilot drill bit low enough?
good bro
Why are you making it chaindrive on the axles? You know that becomes the weakest point of the whole trailer. But can’t wait to see it finished.
Shouldn’t the pivot pin be directly under the cross of the U-joint? This would eliminate the shaft changing length as it pivots and allow you to remove the pin without disassembling the carrier bearings.
ось поворотная должна совпадать с осью крестовин на кардане.... по правильному... но и так пох
You can't remove the pin, from the tow bar, is in line with the PTO connector.
How does that toe bar allow for up down movement? IE driving over a rise or hill then through a gully or valley?
Very long attachment to only allow side to side but not up down movement between vehicle and trailer
There are many good styles of hitches that work look at 4wd trailers
Still Donn usually perplexes me until the reveal and i go “thats how it works”!
pivot point needs to be in line with the u joint for the pro,, it will bind otherwise
Man! 2 videos in just a few days! This addition will enhance the trailer's maneuverability. It'll be easy to jackknife the trailer though. You'll have to watch that so you don't break important bits like your pto shaft. I'm really enjoying this whole series. There's just so much you can do with this rig, it's just astounding. Plow snow? Yup! Drag some broken stuff out of the woods? Yes, sir! Bring a load of firewood out of the thicket? Oh, yeah!
Really impressive!
Moc pěkná práce ;-)
I wonder why when using the hole saw you do not wind the ring down to push the cutter drive pins into the wholes in the cutter. Very easy to get off again as is not tight up against the threads.
Great job. I have been watching many of your projects. Keep making the super informative videos. Thanks.
Вертикальная ось поворота должна совпадать с осью крестовины, иначе будет выламывать кардан
Shouldn’t the articulation point of the draw bar be in the same plane vertically as the articulation point for the universal joint ?
Great design. I don't think anyone in these comments could do better 🤣😆😂😅🤣
I have 2 concerns. Shouldn't the u-joint and pin below it line up so that they rotate at the same point? Hopefully you won't have to replace the pin, I guess the driveshaft could be removed.
Otherwise, Awesome fabricating skills.
I would have thought that the pivot point for the trailer arm and the center of the universal joint should be in vertical alignment.
Aisan nivel pitäs olla tuplakorkea,vrt aisan korkeus. Holkki meni päältä aika väljäksi sorvissa...oho..ja teräs/teräs liukupinta kaposeen niveleen. Vetarin laakereita oisin vieny kauemmas toisistaan. Ehkä koko etummaista taaemmas,niin nivelelle ei tulis niin suurta kulmaa..
That CNC plasma cutting is Super Tidy, I wish they were a thing when I used to do fabrication at the start of the CNC era, my Esab CNC routers could handle thin sheet but it was so slow and messy.
Está ficando muito bom topdasgalaxias
Super Abraço
Buna ziua.
Vă urmăresc de foarte mult timp și este minunat ce faceți.
Totuși mă intreb de ce nu dati drumul la titrari?
Nu toată lumea este vorbitoare de limba engleza...
good
nice video!!! The steering angle on my trailer is 45 degrees. This makes the trailer extremely manoeuvrable despite its size.
VIETNAM VLOG OK
HELO YOU. OK ĐẤY BẠN TỐT
The pivot should have been in centerline with the universal joint
Nicely done like all I have seen you build on TH-cam. Only design flaw I see is the pivot point for the tow bar should be directly inline with the pivot center of your pto u joint. Otherwise as the tow bar swings the length of the pto shaft will change drastically. Very cool build so far
Super 💪👍👍
Very cool Don ! Hope all is well with you and your family. Stay safe and have a wonderful weekend..
Is it a half-million dollar timber trailer?
Will the towing pin be able to be removed
hypothetically.. if god decided to make a 4x4 log trailer he'd construct this one. the trouble is that he's also find himself with a conundrum... inventing much bigger trees to justify it. lol
It feels like that trailer can pull an entire house!! so robust fabrications, i love it! congrats!
Little additions and it will become his travel trailer with tiny house on top of it. Just use loader to lift it off when not in that configuration. Could be pretty cool use addition if you want to travel to forest and camp in style.
loveley
why do you need a moving tow bar?
Tere ja jaksu !
Rauda ja paksu läheb hulga aga eks selle võrra saab kestvam . Mul küsimus : Millise kettaga Donn roostet minema käiab , on see lamell või lihtsalt lõikeketas ?
Great fabrication, but Jesus, is this supposed to be towed behind a tank? It's so massive..
Excelente trabajo! Saludos desde Mendoza Argentina
Merci mon ami pour le partage de cette vidéo intéressant, merci pour l'explication, très Bon travail, Bon courage et bonne chance 👍👍👍👍👍 salutations à vous 🙏🙋🙋🏆
This gonna be good. Super stoked
Well I see no problem with the pin going down, theres only 4 bolts and the top bearings come right off along with driveshaft slip-joints, the only issue I'm seeing, is the ATV going to heavy duty enough to pull this trailer effectively????? It's looking to me that a 25hp tractor will be required, maybe Donn can make one of those!!!! But either or even if I had all the same tooling theres no way I could make this trailer
Umm you screwed up everything that pivots have to be straight in line also how are you gonna remove the pen for easy access you got dismantle the home PTO system
Sir what do you think this unit will weight when complete ??
Roughly same as a T-72 tank..
excuse me don dye, you don't have your plce in the manufacture of DIY machines, you are professional and in no way amateurs so present as a pro
Many things go WRONG !
Nice build so far, I would have put an internal groove in the bush for the grease nipple but very nice anyway
វីដេអូរបស់អ្នកពិតជាមានភាពអស្ចារ្យណាស់😘😘🇰🇭🇰🇭🇰🇭
Where can i find one of the PTO connection thing as you show at 3:27? And what are the official name for it?
I don't understand why you need the hydraulic ram on the tow bar. Does anyone have a reason so I can understand
Maybe lathe renovation?
[23:46]: Before you welded up the tow bar mount assembly, I was surprised that you didn't check the pin, namely to
ensure that it hadn't bound up and could still be easily removed; but you know what you're doing far better than me.
Might want to add mechanical lock possibility on the pivot arm, so in case hose ruptures you can still drive it as normal trailer. Also maybe take out the arm now fill it with gravel and put it turning for day or so to remove any rust inside and then paint it. Would not want that rusting away over time. Specially after all that work.
if you every want to cut plate that is thicker then the piercing capability of the 45 you can drill an 1/8-3/16" hole at the pierce and run it like an edge start. i do it with 3/4" plate on my Hypertherm 85 all the time.
You will have issue when you want to remove this pin. Shaft localization is problem
From experience, using two rams is way better, one on each side connected in series if memory serves me correctly. Especially if you need to hydraulically lock the trailer in an offset position while towing. If you use shuttle valves for steering adjustment, get the connectors with leds to help prevent back emf.
To all of the commenters that think this guy is designing or building this unique creature incorrectly, I suggest you spend some time in his video catalog. He is in fact, no dummy.