How to plumb your diesel heater exhaust through a wall
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.พ. 2025
- This is how I plumbed the exhaust from my diesel heater through a 3" flue thimble using a stainless steel exterior port. I have ran this for nearly 7 hours on high with no heat transfer to the wall materials. This heater is able to maintain a comfortable temperature in my 2 car insulated garage, just don't expect it to rapidly bring a frozen garage up to 70 degrees quickly!
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Links:
SILVEL Diesel Heater
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Exhaust Port
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30 Amp Power Supply
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Ceramic Fiber Insulation
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3" Wall Thimble
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5" Flue Cap
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Very good solution, I need this, since my chimney is not pulling outside enough, the gasses at some point start coming back. I was lucky to have a unit with the adapter for mains and it can also run off a car battery. Using it to heat the chicken coop, or at least that was the idea, need to solve the issue with the exhaust gases. Would be nice to either place it outside and make a longer heating pipe in the front or somehow route the exhaust pipe trough the wall.
Well done! I want to point on one thing that you will want to check for. Look in your attic, make sure your not getting condensation build up due to the heat off the exhaust. The heat will go into the soffit, but maybe its enough distance it wont matter. If it does, just run a pipe out past your soffit then up to the roof line in a 90 degree configuration. Great walk though on this. I plan to do it in my home!
Got to say the neatest through wall exhaust vent I have seen on TH-cam. Well done sir.
Super Clean, Safe and a great idea.
Well Done.
That is a minty fresh installation. THanks for the bonus info on power usage too.
Isn’t there potential for a condensation problem with the low point of your exhaust pipe? The outlet being higher than the rest of the pipe, I would be concerned that it will eventually fill with water and cause issues. Maybe consider raising the heater so that any condensation will drain out the end outside. My 2 cents. I really like the thimble installation. Cheers
The exhaust pipe would have to be cool enough to allow condensation. It is way to short to cool enough.
I watched a video recently where a van dweller had the tip of his exhaust on a very short pipe filling with water and causing issues because he had the end too high for it to drain. Maybe you’re ok if the heater run all the time
@@billmoore5177 Rain or road spray perhaps instead of "condensation?"
@@tomsteen2492first off all great idea for the exhaust, my first of a diesel heater install I had the exhaust outlet to high and and night with out even knowing it the exhaust froze totally shut and the exhaust started leaking back at the outlet of the heater itself and filling in the area where I was sleeping ( btw it was in a ice fishing shack ) needless to say I was very lucky that I had a carbon monoxide detector, I couldn’t believe how much ice built up in the exhaust pipe , so with out saying took it back to the shop and did a reinstall of the heater making sure the heater was higher than the outlet of the exhaust
Came here to add this. Seconded.
Thank you for this! Giving me some ideas.
The problem with using those power supplies is if you lose power you won't get a proper shutdown. It's best to use a battery with a trickle charger, but what are the chances of you running this and losing power...?
I'm going to alter my exhaust design to use that 3" thimble with insulation, looks much safer. You could increase efficiency by porting your combustion intake from outside as well. If you don't you are creating negative pressure in your garage and cold air from outside will find its way in.
Very true on the power failure point. I considered keeping the booster pack close in the unlikely event that happened. Combustion air was a concern as well but I have a few air leaks already with the loose seal on the garage door and drop down attic ladder. Using up the oxygen would be a consideration in a smaller space but I figured my air leaks would provide enough make-up air.
@@sbbox230 Yes, having a battery power supply is best for ensuring against a power failure, but as you mention that you're only planning to heat the space from time to time, you're likely to be present in case of power loss and can quickly attach your jump pack to let the heater clean/cool itself, so I don't see that as a real concern in your instance. I think what DryUrEyes was eluding to re. the combustion air intake not be routed externally is not an O2 level concern, but that you are essentially running an exhaust fan to the outdoors while trying to heat the space. You're consuming the air your trying to heat and constantly replacing it with unheated air through the leaks in the structure, more of an efficiency loss than a safety issue. Excellent install video which provides competent instruction for avoiding many of the common safety mistakes some folks don't realize when installing these units. Super clean look too! Thanks for sharing!
As soon as it looses power, and when re connected to power
It will go throught start up when the button is pressed. It has no idea where it's at in the running sequence.
That is nice work, looks much better than the one rigged together
Nice work young man, any heat is better than nothing.
Best install I've seen. Great job.
Nice job. I’ll be working off of this example for a future install in a sea box. I appreciate the shared info.
Excellent. Very clean install and well done!
I liked the install, good work.
I just bought a diesel heater and have been thinking about how to vent it. I actually just thought of this exact setup last night lol. But i think im just going to vent out the window with a 2x6 and the thru vent adapter.
Rock’n out to 80’s music, Rock on
I have one of these. It is a good idea to move the pump so it is more vertical. They say the pumps mounted horizontal don't last as long. I extended my pump wires so I could mount it near vertical.
wrap your exhaust pipe with header wrap, do 2 layers and it wont get hot, will look cleaner than those stones, not only that the heater will run better for some reason and be a bit quieter
Very nice setup going outside. Been wondering how it could be done and you've answered that! I have one question. How did you get the 5" cap inside a 3" thimble?.
So a 3" thimble is made to go over double wall "B" pipe (it's already over sized). Then you have extra diameter (air gap) between the pipe and the inside of the thimble. I just did a little trial and error until I ended up with this. Hope that helps!
I have tried using the fiberglass wrap as was provided by the manufacturer VEVOR and then add additional wrap creating a diameter of about 1 1/2" . I then ran the exhaust pipe thru a 2 x 8 wood section that I placed on the floor of my garage, as a spacer for my overhead door. This pipe got so hot that I could still smell wood burning. So, don't underestimate the pipes temperature. I am currently rethinking my methodology and considering this persons route.
Or add a extra heat exchanger to collect the discharge heat from the exhaust.
Helped me tremendously
Where can get that metal pass through assembly?
I believe there's a link to everything in the description.
Exhaust should run down to drain the condensation. You should never run a diesel heater from a mains supply, if you have a power outage the heater can't go through its cool down proceedure. You risk frying the electronics in the heater or even a fire. 12v battery and a trickle charger is the correct way to go.
i believe you need to run your vent pipe down hill to remove condensation, so it does not run back into your heater ..
Since I have gotten several comments on this, I am planning an update video about the exhaust along with a few other points. In short, since the exhaust is inside the garage and out of the cold, any water vapor released by combustion stays in the gas state and exits through the wall port. Basically the pipe never cools during operation to cause the condensation. Similar to when your vehicle stops steaming on a cold day once you've driven enough for the entire exhaust system to heat up adequately.
What about drilling a hole in the garage door for the exhaust?
That's the way we did it in the mechanic shop I used to work at. I still use the garage door in the winter though, and I don't want to have to unhook the exhaust every time.
Mine sits outside and I put the duct thru the wall and use the remote
What about a muffler? Can you attack one to the outside wall where the exhaust is coming out?
You can, but I opted out since there isn't ever anyone out there in the winter.
What gauge wire did you run from the power supply to the heater?
Honestly, I can't remember for sure. Since it only pulls 7 amps, even 16 AWG would be plenty.
You made the thimble?
How big is your garage and ceiling height and what temp can you get it to when it's 20 to 40 degrees outside?
My ceiling is just over 9' and I believe the garage is about 22' square. I haven't done much testing but there have been a couple days where I kicked it on with temps in the 20 degree range and the heater warmed it to around 50 within about an hour. Important thing to remember when heating a cold garage is everything out there including the concrete floor acts as a thermal battery, however once everything is up to temp, I've noticed it takes way less effort to maintain a comfortable temp.
Would there be any moisture built up in the wall dues to the temp changes?
I wouldn't think so. Since there is an air gap before the ceramic insulation, then the thimble separates all that from the inside of the wall. The only way to know for sure would be to open it up though.
How hot does the exhaust actually get. I'm hooking mine up and what to know how over kill this is? Looks very safe but do I NEED all this?
I'm actually not sure about the specific temperature. I just know it gets very hot and I didn't want to take any chances of starting a fire in my wall. Probably is a little overkill I'm sure.
Mine gets up to 300 or so about 1' away from the unit
What did you use to waterproof it from outside?
I used a paintable caulking around the outside of the thimble, around the screws, and where the port meets the thimble. The whole thing has since been painted to match the house color.
@ I appreciate the response. I will be making the same setup as your as it is the cleanest and safest set up I’ve seen for an exhaust port. How did you install the chimney cap inside the thimble? I can’t figure it out in my mind because the thimble interior diameter is ~3 in., the chimney cap ~ 5 in. & the thru hull exhaust is ~3.5 in.
The thimble fits a 3" pipe, however the cavity (air space) between the flange and the internal wall provides space for the cap. This is the area you see in the video that I already have filled with insulation at 2:38.
That’s cool but what if you have vinyl siding and can’t find a replacement in the future for the gigantic hole you drilled through it
You could install a "mounting block" like you would for a light fixture on traditional lap or vinyl siding. Then with vinyl, you would install the J channel around the block to terminate the siding into.
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If the garage is not air tight then no point having the combustion intake outside. That's why on my set up left it inside..
I have a roller dooor so draft always comes in making it ventilated