Thanks for checking this video out my peeps, do let me know if there are other things you need analyzed, that's what we do, motorcycles analyzed - Motolyzed 🤜🏼🤛🏼
Lovely .... Full of information as usual it's time to rise and shine .... Mostly people burn their break pads or the clutch plates with less knowledge of control thanks for making this video so riders can understand in a better way to how to control , enjoy on the Mountains while saving some bugs Cheers.
Well the clutch is more unlikely to burn on a bike, swimming in oil and all, unless you have a dry clutch, and that is exactly why you should utilize the clutch rather than the rear brake.
Great video thanks for this now I know when going downhill I should be on second gear bcoz back then I thought 1st gear would be Ideal but it wasn't the rpm is to high so yeah great learning point. Im a beginner rider ✌️
Imma alive~! Alternative and Additional considerations = do-not upset the bike, in any way, before a corner, during a corner. Shift weight, shift gear, change speed, stabalise, enter, stabalise, whatever Avoid gear 1 (even for engine braking, if need gear 1, rather burn the brakes) Avoid cam-change ranges after downshift (if cam-shifts at 6000rpm avoid downshifting into 6000rpm where brake or throttle will create stress. Cam-shift includes VTEC) Avoid turbo shifts (some dragster-styles installed things bad for stress levels), between lag to spooled Use coasting-feel of lightweightedness for maximum tire-grip without-changing gyroscopic-effect of wheels or engine (coasting-feel can be in-gear at engine-rpm matched to wheel-rpm without touching clutch-lever) Avoid braking in-corner When overcook, throttle for rear wheel to oversteer(slide), changing attack of the front, creating sideways centrifugal-force effect (not necessarily 2 wheel slide) of both tires to create big braking effect. Applies to cars too. After thinking this strategy out, apply to drag race games to check, apply to other computer games to test. Target is different (gear) shifting strategy using downhill as the benchmark for power to weight ratio controlled release-application
13000rpm redline but coast in corner at 8000rpm, missile-aim by reducing throttle gradually, as brake, to 5000rpm, after aiming, throttle to cross 6000rpm cam-shift point. Ear can hear intake roar and exhaust-note(not noise, not loud pipes) at points...
That cannot be further from the truth, and especially not with modern motorcycles that have the likes of cornering ABS, multi-axis IMUs, traction control etc. So, look around for videos and articles on trail-braking, and enjoy the ride 👍🏼👍🏼
@@todxbranko Do you have any advice for someone (me) that has issues with left turns only?!? Its like my right hand wants to be dominant bc Im right handed... so when I make left turns it just feels wrong... like Im trying to write with the wrong hand (only way I can describe it). Right turns (no matter how tight) are easier for me. Everyone I talk to says that right is easier for them... ?!?
The natural feeling of turning to one side happens in almost every sport, has a lot to do with dominant side, but I haven't researched it in detail. It goes so far that, for example, figure skaters will develop a scoliosis because they always do pirouettes to the same side. Now whether it's a dominant eye or ear or the balance cortex in the brain I can't say because, ad I said I haven't researched it in detail. But there is a way to get better at turning in the "other" side, and that's face fears and practice. Maybe it won't feel more natural but it will instill confidence.
@@todxbranko My husband has been helping me... Im bad about cutting into both lanes when turning left if no car is there instead of just turning into the right lane ... so hes been on my case about my “bad habits” lol. So today I made sure to stay in my lane when turning. Baby steps.
I'm having a bit of a hard time imagining what you think by "cutting into both lanes", but from what you are telling me, it sounds as you are not looking far enough into the corner, not looking where you want to go. Congratulations on staying in your lane, it's really good to hear you are correcting yourself. Bad habits are definitely something that is possible, but from what I understood, you are a new rider and as such, didn't really spend enough time on the bike to develop any real habits. The problem is you are too analytical in real time and by the time you consider all the variables you are already in the action that needs to take place and suddenly you catch yourself doing something that in theory you know you shouldn't be doing. Good mentorship helps with this, so maybe you could go and do a professional advanced riding course where an instructor will asses your mistakes and give you constructive feedback, focusing on critical details. From what you told me, it definitely sounds like a case of target fixation (not turning your head and looking where you want to go) and perhaps body position while turning left. After your previous message I was out on the bike and assessed myself objectively, realized that for me it feels more natural and I feel more comfortable turning to the left than to the right. I also inspected my tires and noticed that I tend to lean deeper in left corners, which means I am more confident in left turns. So it's not like everyone is havi g issues with left hand turn. Hope this helps a little and thank you for all the questions, I will do some research and make a video on this topic, then we can discuss this. Or you could have your husband film you from the rear while riding, and you could send me the video via email or share a link and I'll be happy to analyze it
What if there's oil or if the roads really wet on the hill? How do we stop? Or slow down. Someone said, do not use the front brake, otherwise the bike will 100% skid and fall.
Hazards on roads can happen, in those cases your best case scenario is to avoid any sudden inputs be it braking or accelerating, tires are much more capable than you gube them credit for. Having said that, learn to modulate your brakes and don't worry too much
Very nice to see a non-rider watch a motorcycle video, and thank you for the comment! In general clutch is feathered for more precise power delivery especially in technical riding
Nice video I have one question, If my way has a deep slope. Then how should i control the bike Do i need to use the engine braking , brakes ? If yes then shall i use first brake and both the brakes ?
Hi, thank you for the comment and a great question! The way I handle kind steep slopes is to keep it in an appropriate gear at which I can manage the slope with minimal braking, so keep it in gear, and make sure you don't drag the rear brake for too long, slow down (with both brakes, front being primary) sufficiently before the turn and just lean in. Which brake you use first is not that important, just don't hit the clutch unless you are coming to a complete stop otherwise your brake may lock up if without ABS
@@todxbranko , I was asking this because in india we have many places which has a basement parking for many buildings. So for that scenario where the slope is very deep and i am controlling the bike with brakes . So it might stall in middle because of any reason.
Can someone answer this: I'm going downhill, and start gaining speed(pulled clutch). Now when I release clutch I hear motor revs go up and bike slow down a bit(engine brake?). Will this hurt clutch in any way?Then I apply both breaks gradually to almost complete stop before hairpin. Look into turn, my shoulders follow, my bike follows. Right?
Assuming you know which gear you are in and how fast you should go not to overrev a specific gear, nothing major will happen to your clutch. If you don't know which gear you are in and don't have a slipper clutch abruptly dropping the clutch and revs going up you can easily lock the rear wheel. It's safer if you stay in gear and let the bike roll
For hills (small roads) riding, which is more important horse power or torque? My current bike Gixxer SF 155 ( 13.9 PS & 14 Mm torque) is becoming stressful for me (77kg) when riding steep hilly roads which is where I live. My options right now are R15 (18.7 PS, 14.1 Nm) or FZ25 20.8 PS & 20.1 Nm). Which of these two will be better suited for my requirements? Thanks
That's a great question. Short answer would be torque. Look for torque figure and you will be happy. Long answer would be, I have to consider the configuration of both the R15 and the FZ25, how many cylinders, displacement, torque and power curves, gearing, and bottom line, take each for a ride and see which one feels better for your requirements. The FZ might have better numbers but it just feels uncomfortable. The R15 might have lower numbers but available from early in the range so it pulls from the get-go. Hope I wasn't too confusing
the FZ25 will be a better option for hilly terrain as the torque comes in at lower rpm than the R15, and it has more torque as well. this means that you will have better engine braking and more climbing ability.
@@YansenHaryanto4547 most of them do, but a lot of small bikes around southeast Asia and the far east do come with regular transmission, even though they look like scooters. I have ridden my fair share of CVT scooters over the years between 50 and 400cc, and yes, scooter's biggest issue in these kinds of situations is that it doesn't really have prominent engine braking, in which case your brakes are indeed the only way you can slow down. General premise is the same - weight to the rear, reduce speed enough before entering the corner and ride through. Trail brake if you have to but reducing speed before the turn ensures that you brake with the motorcycle upright, which gives maximum traction, rather then when your bike is leaned over and the contact patch is reduced
@Tilen KC No, contact patch decreases as you lean, thus in slippery and wet conditions for example you tend to lean less in order to make sure that you have the maximum available traction
when riding downhill i always alternating between front and rear brake.. it's like 5 sec of front brake and 2 sec of rear brake.. is it okay or not? i never had that brake gets overheat
Fear is a powerful thing. You will likely benefit from a good riding school/instructor, someone who can guide you on how to be safe and responsible and develop your skills gradually
Thanks for checking this video out my peeps, do let me know if there are other things you need analyzed, that's what we do, motorcycles analyzed - Motolyzed 🤜🏼🤛🏼
Lovely .... Full of information as usual it's time to rise and shine .... Mostly people burn their break pads or the clutch plates with less knowledge of control thanks for making this video so riders can understand in a better way to how to control , enjoy on the Mountains while saving some bugs Cheers.
Well the clutch is more unlikely to burn on a bike, swimming in oil and all, unless you have a dry clutch, and that is exactly why you should utilize the clutch rather than the rear brake.
Valuable tips.Good job Branco.Keep it up ..and keep it coming!
As much as the time allows 🤜🏼🤛🏼
Great video thanks for this now I know when going downhill I should be on second gear bcoz back then I thought 1st gear would be Ideal but it wasn't the rpm is to high so yeah great learning point. Im a beginner rider ✌️
Thanks ill be doing this next week on a new bike in a nrw area.
Perfect 😅
Go for it man, and let me know how it went 💪🏽
Thanks for the Clip Branco! Really useful information.
As a brand new rider I did learn something, I had hoped the smell was the guy going the other way
Thanks for taking the time to say a few words 😊
Great tips! Just subscribed 🙂
Imma alive~!
Alternative and Additional considerations
= do-not upset the bike, in any way, before a corner, during a corner.
Shift weight, shift gear, change speed, stabalise, enter, stabalise, whatever
Avoid gear 1 (even for engine braking, if need gear 1, rather burn the brakes)
Avoid cam-change ranges after downshift (if cam-shifts at 6000rpm avoid downshifting into 6000rpm where brake or throttle will create stress. Cam-shift includes VTEC)
Avoid turbo shifts (some dragster-styles installed things bad for stress levels), between lag to spooled
Use coasting-feel of lightweightedness for maximum tire-grip without-changing gyroscopic-effect of wheels or engine (coasting-feel can be in-gear at engine-rpm matched to wheel-rpm without touching clutch-lever)
Avoid braking in-corner
When overcook, throttle for rear wheel to oversteer(slide), changing attack of the front, creating sideways centrifugal-force effect (not necessarily 2 wheel slide) of both tires to create big braking effect.
Applies to cars too. After thinking this strategy out, apply to drag race games to check, apply to other computer games to test. Target is different (gear) shifting strategy using downhill as the benchmark for power to weight ratio controlled release-application
13000rpm redline but coast in corner at 8000rpm, missile-aim by reducing throttle gradually, as brake, to 5000rpm, after aiming, throttle to cross 6000rpm cam-shift point. Ear can hear intake roar and exhaust-note(not noise, not loud pipes) at points...
I was always told to “never” use front brake in a turn/curve... no?!?
That cannot be further from the truth, and especially not with modern motorcycles that have the likes of cornering ABS, multi-axis IMUs, traction control etc. So, look around for videos and articles on trail-braking, and enjoy the ride 👍🏼👍🏼
@@todxbranko Do you have any advice for someone (me) that has issues with left turns only?!? Its like my right hand wants to be dominant bc Im right handed... so when I make left turns it just feels wrong... like Im trying to write with the wrong hand (only way I can describe it). Right turns (no matter how tight) are easier for me. Everyone I talk to says that right is easier for them... ?!?
The natural feeling of turning to one side happens in almost every sport, has a lot to do with dominant side, but I haven't researched it in detail. It goes so far that, for example, figure skaters will develop a scoliosis because they always do pirouettes to the same side. Now whether it's a dominant eye or ear or the balance cortex in the brain I can't say because, ad I said I haven't researched it in detail. But there is a way to get better at turning in the "other" side, and that's face fears and practice. Maybe it won't feel more natural but it will instill confidence.
@@todxbranko My husband has been helping me... Im bad about cutting into both lanes when turning left if no car is there instead of just turning into the right lane ... so hes been on my case about my “bad habits” lol. So today I made sure to stay in my lane when turning. Baby steps.
I'm having a bit of a hard time imagining what you think by "cutting into both lanes", but from what you are telling me, it sounds as you are not looking far enough into the corner, not looking where you want to go. Congratulations on staying in your lane, it's really good to hear you are correcting yourself. Bad habits are definitely something that is possible, but from what I understood, you are a new rider and as such, didn't really spend enough time on the bike to develop any real habits. The problem is you are too analytical in real time and by the time you consider all the variables you are already in the action that needs to take place and suddenly you catch yourself doing something that in theory you know you shouldn't be doing. Good mentorship helps with this, so maybe you could go and do a professional advanced riding course where an instructor will asses your mistakes and give you constructive feedback, focusing on critical details.
From what you told me, it definitely sounds like a case of target fixation (not turning your head and looking where you want to go) and perhaps body position while turning left.
After your previous message I was out on the bike and assessed myself objectively, realized that for me it feels more natural and I feel more comfortable turning to the left than to the right. I also inspected my tires and noticed that I tend to lean deeper in left corners, which means I am more confident in left turns. So it's not like everyone is havi g issues with left hand turn.
Hope this helps a little and thank you for all the questions, I will do some research and make a video on this topic, then we can discuss this.
Or you could have your husband film you from the rear while riding, and you could send me the video via email or share a link and I'll be happy to analyze it
What about the clutch ..We have to release or press it ??Please Remove my confusing ..
Only depress the clutch when downshifting or coming to a full stop, otherwise no. Hope this clears things up
Do I have to hold clutch every time I brake a little ?????
Of course not. Only press the clutch if you are shifting a gear or if coming to a full stop. Otherwise, always brake with gear engaged
@@todxbranko Thank you for helping
What if there's oil or if the roads really wet on the hill? How do we stop? Or slow down. Someone said, do not use the front brake, otherwise the bike will 100% skid and fall.
Hazards on roads can happen, in those cases your best case scenario is to avoid any sudden inputs be it braking or accelerating, tires are much more capable than you gube them credit for. Having said that, learn to modulate your brakes and don't worry too much
I ride an xt600,no need for brakes lol engine does everything
😂😂😂 some motors are mad like that! I have a 1986 1VJ, what year is yours?
Why do you need to feather the clutch? I dont ride motorcycles btw
Very nice to see a non-rider watch a motorcycle video, and thank you for the comment! In general clutch is feathered for more precise power delivery especially in technical riding
Nice video
I have one question, If my way has a deep slope. Then how should i control the bike
Do i need to use the engine braking , brakes ?
If yes then shall i use first brake and both the brakes ?
Hi, thank you for the comment and a great question! The way I handle kind steep slopes is to keep it in an appropriate gear at which I can manage the slope with minimal braking, so keep it in gear, and make sure you don't drag the rear brake for too long, slow down (with both brakes, front being primary) sufficiently before the turn and just lean in. Which brake you use first is not that important, just don't hit the clutch unless you are coming to a complete stop otherwise your brake may lock up if without ABS
@@todxbranko , Thanks for the quick and understandable answer.
Can i use the half clutch on the above scenario other than no clutch ?
I don't see a reason for clutch modulation unless you are so slow and your bike is about to stall. Just let is roll
@@todxbranko , I was asking this because in india we have many places which has a basement parking for many buildings. So for that scenario where the slope is very deep and i am controlling the bike with brakes . So it might stall in middle because of any reason.
Basement parkings are not nearly long nor steep enough for you to worry about fading brakes, just relax and do it in the safest way possible
Can someone answer this: I'm going downhill, and start gaining speed(pulled clutch). Now when I release clutch I hear motor revs go up and bike slow down a bit(engine brake?). Will this hurt clutch in any way?Then I apply both breaks gradually to almost complete stop before hairpin. Look into turn, my shoulders follow, my bike follows. Right?
Assuming you know which gear you are in and how fast you should go not to overrev a specific gear, nothing major will happen to your clutch. If you don't know which gear you are in and don't have a slipper clutch abruptly dropping the clutch and revs going up you can easily lock the rear wheel. It's safer if you stay in gear and let the bike roll
Search canyon chasers on TH-cam. You will learn how to corner on a bike the right way. Has a whole video on down hill
For hills (small roads) riding, which is more important horse power or torque? My current bike Gixxer SF 155 ( 13.9 PS & 14 Mm torque) is becoming stressful for me (77kg) when riding steep hilly roads which is where I live. My options right now are R15 (18.7 PS, 14.1 Nm) or FZ25 20.8 PS & 20.1 Nm). Which of these two will be better suited for my requirements? Thanks
That's a great question.
Short answer would be torque. Look for torque figure and you will be happy.
Long answer would be, I have to consider the configuration of both the R15 and the FZ25, how many cylinders, displacement, torque and power curves, gearing, and bottom line, take each for a ride and see which one feels better for your requirements. The FZ might have better numbers but it just feels uncomfortable. The R15 might have lower numbers but available from early in the range so it pulls from the get-go.
Hope I wasn't too confusing
the FZ25 will be a better option for hilly terrain as the torque comes in at lower rpm than the R15, and it has more torque as well. this means that you will have better engine braking and more climbing ability.
What about wet rainy hills with hair pin bends on a scooter, it's the same breaking?
Yup, just say a prayer first 😅 jokes aside, is an automatic or manual transmission?
@@todxbranko scooter nowadays comes with cvt automatic..
@@YansenHaryanto4547 most of them do, but a lot of small bikes around southeast Asia and the far east do come with regular transmission, even though they look like scooters. I have ridden my fair share of CVT scooters over the years between 50 and 400cc, and yes, scooter's biggest issue in these kinds of situations is that it doesn't really have prominent engine braking, in which case your brakes are indeed the only way you can slow down. General premise is the same - weight to the rear, reduce speed enough before entering the corner and ride through. Trail brake if you have to but reducing speed before the turn ensures that you brake with the motorcycle upright, which gives maximum traction, rather then when your bike is leaned over and the contact patch is reduced
@@todxbranko Is not contact patch increased when leaned
@Tilen KC No, contact patch decreases as you lean, thus in slippery and wet conditions for example you tend to lean less in order to make sure that you have the maximum available traction
please also enable or engage engine braking to prevent accident.
I am not sure I understand you completely, but you should always be in gear
when riding downhill i always alternating between front and rear brake.. it's like 5 sec of front brake and 2 sec of rear brake.. is it okay or not? i never had that brake gets overheat
Your brakes are working well, you are not dead, that means you are doing something right 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I do the same thing. I press brakes equally. Is it a good thing or bad idk
As long as you are not dragging the rear you'll be just fine
😍😍😍😍😍
Thanks bro, I feel the same
if u wanna go then u go to hill and go down
That's a good MO, too 👍🏼👍🏼
I’m scared to ride but want to any advice I can cycle a bicycle though
Fear is a powerful thing. You will likely benefit from a good riding school/instructor, someone who can guide you on how to be safe and responsible and develop your skills gradually