Really appreciate this video! Working on a 1979 model. I went online and instantly got scared because I’m pretty sure the mechanical seal is leaking. You made my day now that I know I don’t have to pull the back cover.
Great tutorial! Whipped right thru the job after watching you, only bit that I felt dodgy about was heating the cup in the new seal to release the rubber bit. After careful heating it came out just fine.
To do the job right and top notch you pull the engine.....it's 20 min and it's out You can spin it around on a jack take the rear engine cover off, drive new seal in. Clean out engine of all clutch and metal break in which mine had 3 paper towels worth in the bottom......Normal even with 14k miles
This is really great! I recently bought a '79 CX500 in really great original condition, and it has sprung a small dribbling leak at the water pump area. Great video thank you!
Thank you for this. I'm getting ready to tackle mine in the next week or two. My bike is in pieces on the floor because I'm fixing the leaky carb feed tube o-rings and decided might as well get this over with. Your video definitely helped me gain a better understanding of the procedure.
I just bought a 1982 Honda CX500TC/Turbo (same/similar motor)...that was told to me by seller, that this seal did not leak. It was extremely clean when I purchased it w/no indication of a leak (which is common w/these motors)...but, after the 1st 20+ miles I noticed a very minor leak coming from this seal area (minor or not...none the less a leak). I'm assuming this procedure in this video does work (does it???) and it could be done w/mine. Much less work and $$$'s than splitting the motor or removal of motor to do it as Honda recommends. If this "minor" leak is left untreated/unfixed...what potential issues could arise (other than the mess on motor)??? BTW...great video. Informative! Could be better w/o the quick sweeps and better focus (field of view) on what you were trying to show on the stove. But...good clear video!!! Thanks for showing this!
I'd check the o-rong from the chrome water pipe before anything else. The leak is really a nusiance more than anything. If the drip is minor and you keep the coolant filled there isn't really any averse side effects to letting it drip a bit.
Going to be doing this on my GL500 sometime soon, no serious leak and no oil/coolant mixing but it dribbles a little bit (not even noticeably at idle). I'll have it apart and the coolant bottle off to do a pulser cover gasket and change the rear shock (pro-link monoshock) at some point anyway
Fill the radiator until full. Leave radiator cap off, and start engine. Let it run until the thermostat opens (takes several minutes). When thermostat opens, you will see coolant moving in the radiator (with cap still off), and coolant level in radiator will drop a little. Now stop engine. Re-fill radiator until full again. Replace radiator cap. Now re-fill reservoir if necessary, to indicated full mark. Now the system is bled and you can go riding.
At 2:40, you say that you aren't missing any bolts, and the holes are just locating dowels. You are, in fact, missing two M8x65 flange bolts that pass through the dowels, and are the primary fasteners for that cover.
@@100PercentJake The problem with using the axle is the tapered end. Only a couple threads will engage with the fan hub, and have been known to strip it. Find a flat-ended bolt of the same thread (M14x1.5). Also, find a Factory Service Manual, and ditch the aftermarket book that made that recommendation.
Really appreciate this video! Working on a 1979 model. I went online and instantly got scared because I’m pretty sure the mechanical seal is leaking. You made my day now that I know I don’t have to pull the back cover.
Great tutorial! Whipped right thru the job after watching you, only bit that I felt dodgy about was heating the cup in the new seal to release the rubber bit. After careful heating it came out just fine.
To do the job right and top notch you pull the engine.....it's 20 min and it's out
You can spin it around on a jack take the rear engine cover off, drive new seal in.
Clean out engine of all clutch and metal break in which mine had 3 paper towels worth in the bottom......Normal even with 14k miles
This is really great! I recently bought a '79 CX500 in really great original condition, and it has sprung a small dribbling leak at the water pump area. Great video thank you!
Thank you for this. I'm getting ready to tackle mine in the next week or two. My bike is in pieces on the floor because I'm fixing the leaky carb feed tube o-rings and decided might as well get this over with. Your video definitely helped me gain a better understanding of the procedure.
Aaah, mine had the o-ring leak as well when I got it back. Glad I could help!
Good video, I have a small leak, it might be this. Thanks for going through these steps, I'm sure I'll have to watch this again.
I just bought a 1982 Honda CX500TC/Turbo (same/similar motor)...that was told to me by seller, that this seal did not leak. It was extremely clean when I purchased it w/no indication of a leak (which is common w/these motors)...but, after the 1st 20+ miles I noticed a very minor leak coming from this seal area (minor or not...none the less a leak). I'm assuming this procedure in this video does work (does it???) and it could be done w/mine. Much less work and $$$'s than splitting the motor or removal of motor to do it as Honda recommends.
If this "minor" leak is left untreated/unfixed...what potential issues could arise (other than the mess on motor)???
BTW...great video. Informative! Could be better w/o the quick sweeps and better focus (field of view) on what you were trying to show on the stove. But...good clear video!!! Thanks for showing this!
I'd check the o-rong from the chrome water pipe before anything else. The leak is really a nusiance more than anything. If the drip is minor and you keep the coolant filled there isn't really any averse side effects to letting it drip a bit.
Going to be doing this on my GL500 sometime soon, no serious leak and no oil/coolant mixing but it dribbles a little bit (not even noticeably at idle). I'll have it apart and the coolant bottle off to do a pulser cover gasket and change the rear shock (pro-link monoshock) at some point anyway
What was your process of refilling the coolant back into the radiator. Did you bleed the air out or just start her up?
Poured it in the radiator cap until full then filled the overflow tank and let er rip
Fill the radiator until full. Leave radiator cap off, and start engine. Let it run until the thermostat opens (takes several minutes). When thermostat opens, you will see coolant moving in the radiator (with cap still off), and coolant level in radiator will drop a little. Now stop engine. Re-fill radiator until full again. Replace radiator cap. Now re-fill reservoir if necessary, to indicated full mark. Now the system is bled and you can go riding.
At 2:40, you say that you aren't missing any bolts, and the holes are just locating dowels. You are, in fact, missing two M8x65 flange bolts that pass through the dowels, and are the primary fasteners for that cover.
Regarding annealing the copper washer it has to be red hot and cooled in water. Cooling on it's own may harden it again.
From what I recall with blacksmithing. Heating until red hot and then quenching in fluid hardens metal like glass... maybe copper reacts differently?
@@yoBradyO11 yes with steel but not copper..... try it out
The copper will be annealed whether it's quenched or allowed to cool slowly. Copper is only hardened by working.
Hi, nice job , did it work ok after a good spin ? thanks a lot from Wales , Gus
Been working great! Fighting absolutely every other aspect of this poor neglected bike but the water pump seems solid.
Hi, great news, I changed mine and looks ok too, thanks for the tips, good luck with the bike. Gus
Dang you got lucky with pulling that mechanical seal out . Mine is stuck bad
Motor comes out in 20 min brah
As Ave would say "framing you %uck"! Good info nevertheless. Thanks for posting!
Did you use the Honda OEM replacement seal (part #19217-611-000) or did you use a Yamaha (11H-12438-10-00) one? Can either one be used?
I did the yamaha one here.
@@100PercentJake I appreciate the response!
Yamaha part is €10......Honda part is €50......here in Germany.
Great!!! Thanks
All need to know is how to pull the fan blade of the motor
If I remember right you remove the front axle and it is threaded properly to thread into the front of the fan hub and press it off of the camshaft.
@@100PercentJake The problem with using the axle is the tapered end. Only a couple threads will engage with the fan hub, and have been known to strip it. Find a flat-ended bolt of the same thread (M14x1.5). Also, find a Factory Service Manual, and ditch the aftermarket book that made that recommendation.
A fried had the 650 Turbo version. A very odd bike.
You did as much work moving the carbs when you could pull the engine
Mine needs this and my mechanic says the engine needs to be removed. Will you do mine?😂
Your mechanic knows better this is the lazy wrong way to do it
Can't see a bloody thing with constantly moving cam.