Essentially this issue comes down to the voltage of the battery getting too low when we are drawing the high current from it. As a lithium battery has a BMS (battery Management System) that is designed to keep all the cells happy and healthy as soon as the voltage drops below 11.3 power is cut. you would almost have a better shot using AGM or Lead Acid or Gel for this battery size as they do not have BMS and allow you to draw as much as the battery can handle! (this is not healthy for the lifespan of the battery and of course those batteries have many disadvantages compared to lithium). And as i mention this could also come down to the quality of the cells in the kings battery, or even the quality of the BMS but i think if you are buying lithium with the intention to cook using electricity i would be buying no less the 200Ah.
You shouldn't get a huge voltage drop with lifepo4 even with a .5c discharge 60amp should be fine id assume the bms is limited to about that with this quality of battery anyway id be measuring voltage directly at the battery and also at the inverter to see if your voltage drop isn't coming from there but thinking now its the bms cutting of not the inverter reaching a low voltage disconnect id say the bms wire size cant handle 60amps and thats where the voltage drop is coming from or a faulty cell the wire size on all bms's is usually undersized
@@brentmcd12 no they have a bms battery management system to protect individual cells most bms's now have balancers too to keep cells in balance but if you look at a discharge curve even with a high discharge its a very stable curve untill you reach ethier end of the scale thats why its basically impossible to use voltage as a state of charge at 15%-90% voltages are near identical
May have already thought of it but is the gauge of cable enough for 50A plus? May find a bit of resistance is causing the drop. Is there some kind of voltage regulator that could fix this? I appreciated this video 👍
Pat this is what i think your issue is here. Your Kings 120ah lithium battery is only rated at 100A continuous discharge. 100A x 12v = 1200W. So if you have the cooktop running at 1200W that already maxes out the battery's discharge rate. There is simply nothing left for anything else (including the inverter itself). The simple fix for this is to add another 120ah battery and run them in parallel so that you essentially have 2400W of continous discharge. You also get the added bonus of the extra 120ah capacity.
Hi mate, i work at a battery manufacturer in Brisbane, and i can tell you something is up with either the wiring or the battery or the charger. A full lithium sits at about 13.8 volts, 13.1 is very low, just run over your charging system. The BMS cuts are usually because one of the cell banks has dropped too low, so yea, really check over your charging setup.
Agreed, I would have a guess there is some sub-par wiring either between the charging system and the battery, or the battery and the inverter. The voltage seems quite low. Running the travel buddy at the same time is probably a big ask, but there is no good reason to why that 120ah (100A continuous, 160A peak) battery and the 1,500w inverter can't power that induction cooktop on the 800w setting (they use 850w at the wall on that setting)
Probably a good chance the wire included with the kings inverter is too small, and not sure if the inverter is running through one of those lever type breakers, but if so the voltage drop across that would be a huge contributor. Between the safety in the bms, and the internal fuses inside the inverter, a direct connection between battery and inverter with short cables and no breakers should be ok. If you do run a fuse, it should be a 200-250a class T. A good investment when doing elaborate setups like this is a thermal camera, even a really cheap one, will help find faults or high resistance connections very quickly. Guarantee those lever type breakers will be lighting up like a Christmas tree. Also worth noting the kmart induction cooker on the temperature control setting pulses power, as do the wattage settings below 800w. The 1000w setting draws around 1050w from the inverter, and with conversion losses that equates to around 130a from the battery.
@@lexicase8805 If that was the case, the amp meter would also indicate 130 amps from the battery. It just seems like the internal wiring, the internal resistance, or the bms of the kings battery just isn't up to scratch. I make batteries for a living, and i was pulling 160 amps out of a 100ah battery yesterday and getting 12.8 volts.
@@colinsmith6340 i think you're absolutely correct, i commented while watching the video and made an assumption, but yes for the bms to be cutting off like that it has to be internal. Looks like the free battery that was given to cover damage caused by a faulty product is now also faulty! Not looking good for kings 😅
Go buy a cast iron pan with a full cast iron handle wrap the cast iron pan in alfoil and mount it near or on your exhaust manifold while your driving then it's hot for when you want to start cooking remove the alfoil and it should be clean and ready to go
For anyone interested in induction cooking - BCF sell 3 piece induction pot set, and 3 piece frying pan set, with removable handles. They're pretty affordable and pack down a lot better than pots/pans with fixed handles. Plus they're non-stick so you use a lot less water when washing up. I think i paid about $40 per set (but don't quote me on this).
I have the same Andrew and they’re fantastic. I also have the non stick roaster. I tend to use the lid more than the base as it can be used as a griddle for salmon, haloumi, steak etc.
Sounds like the kings 120A lithium battery is 50A max continuous Amp draw and not 100A like on the website. With your travel buddy at 4A and fridge at 2-3A when you go to 800w with the induction cook top to sits at the 45-48A mark, any higher it trips the BMS of the lithium battery. The only way to fix it is to buy a proper lithium battery brand with real world tested specs or get another battery and run it in parallel so you have twice the amp draw capability. Dude keep up this content it is awesome.
The travel buddy draws more than 4 amps or what ever he stated in the video. He had it pre heat for 45 minutes, cooking for 45, and extra cooking for 45, thats like 2+hours. Thats least 20 amps (10 amps an hour) and old mate said it only used 4 amp hours of battery. His battery monitor is wrong.
I'm running 2 x 120amp lithiums (Itechworld) with a 2000 watt inverter and ran a 1800 watt air fryer for 20 minutes pulling 185amps while the heating element was on as a test and still had 80 odd percent of the batteries left. Have since got a smaller 1300 watt air fryer and its perfect. Also use 2 x 200 watt folding solar blankets which put back around 22amps per hour
Interesting video, some great ideas here. I would have to disagree about the cause of your problem. I have a 200AH lithium setup myself and was looking for a coffee maker to plug in to my inverter. The small Nespresso machines are 1300 watts so my 1,000 watt inverter won't do that. The problem with going to a 1500w inverter is that my Lithium battery is rated at 100amp maximum draw, as is the Kings 120AH lithium you are running. This means that you can get a theoretical maximum of 1200w (W=VxA). When running through an inverter you will get losses due to the cabling and the inverter itself so it will realistically be closer to 1100w. This, I believe, is the cause of your power cutting out. Your battery can hold a 160A draw for 10sec but it will not provide more than 100A for sustained periods. Amps draw and Amp hours are two different issues. The solution, if you have the space and the bucks, is to run two batteries in parallel thus doubling the available current. Lithium batteries are available with higher current ratings but obviously cost more.
. doubling the battery won't allow 200a draw as each battery has an independent bms only allowing 100a constant draw. although it might stop the voltage drop his getting at 60a draw. I would have thought the lithium wouldn't see that much voltage drop under that load. maybe the difference between high end cells and cheap cells.
@@mathewsimonelli1332 it will work if wired in parallel. It won't if wired in series. The bms on one battery will not limit the other for current draw.
The induction cooker does not run continuously at the set wattage. The set wattage is to indicate how much power will be used in a hour. The induction stove pulses, using max power. The slower the pulsing the less power is used in 1 hour. The higher the setting the faster the pulsing and the more strain on the inverter and battery. The inverter needs to be oversized as well as the battery.
Great video, mate. I've been running inverter cooking on a budget system for a couple of years now. Hell, I even started with a Kings 100AH AGM and the inverter/induction cooking. Killed the AGM after some time, but it worked well. The great thing about going electric is the maths. If you work out what you need with the math it will work. I don't know what your system consists of behind the battery to the inverter but if I was to take a guess, there is a large loss occurring between the battery and the inverter. Cabling size is crucial plus the distance of cabling has an effect on resistance. Resistance means heat, heat means loss. Your volt drop is because the inverter wants the amps/watts, it will try and take what it needs in amps/watts from the battery to service the inverter demand but because there is resistance, something has to give and that's volts. As the heat increases the resistance increases which makes the problem exponentially worse over time. I now have a quality 200AH lithium but evolved from the 100AH AGM to a 100AH budget lithium. The cabling is AWG 0000 (12mm dia) with the longest length of about 500mm. Pulling 120amp continuous, the cables are just slightly above ambient temp to touch. Enerdrive have a very helpful cabling table on their website to help with cable selection.
Simply because of the black DayZ T-shirt, I've subbed. Very stylish. I enjoy my shirt, and I've also got a tumbler with the same dayz (and also opposite) included my first initial and last name graphed onto the tumbler 😊 It was a gift from a sweet heart, and I really appreciated the reminiscing along the great video tempo. Cheers for the great video as well as being just my style, mate.. "on par!"
I run two induction cook plates with cast-iron and steel fry pans with a 300w solar panel that usually outputs about 200-230 watts into my 2000w battery generator. I never loose power cooking. I also have USB tent lights and heated blankets.
Your setup is excellent and it will work fine with the inductive cook top, but a few small details you need to take care of that are letting you down. First, check the voltage at the battery terminals with a multimeter. Turn on the load and see if it actually drops to 11V. If it does, the BMS is faulty or badly wired to the terminals. Kings need to replace the battery. If that checks out ok, the voltage drop will be occurring between the battery terminals and the inverter. Check connections and upgrade them, check fuses and any kills switches from the battery to the inverter by measuring the voltage drop across each components terminals and finally check each cable, positive and negative from the battery terminal to the inverter. The cables that Kings provides are way under size for 2kW as you need to allow for something like 200A when the battery capacity depletes and its voltage goes down to 11V when the maximum current will be drawn from the battery by the Inverter. I suggest you run 95mm2 cable (for 3m return battery to inverter and back).
Nicely said. I run 95m㎡ cables directly from my 300Ah Lithium (200A max continuous) to my 3kW Inverter. It happily powers my 2400W Ninja Foodi Flip Air Fryer or my 2200W Induction Cooktop. [Obviously being limited to 200A continuous I can’t run the inverter at max. I chose to buy one 300Ah battery instead of say a pair of 175Ah/200Ah or whatever].
Good one to test your system.👍 There's no greater peace of mind knowing what you're taking on a trip works its intended design. FYI... I don't preheat when cooking with a Travel Buddy. It just seems like a waste of power. I just chuck in the food and turn it on. I simply add about 20%-30% cooking time. And it works each time. I too am looking into induction cooking. but would need to upgrade my 1500W inverter to a 2000W version, for greater flexibility and peace of mind. Might look into a voltage step-up converter. Thanks for sharing. 👌
Thanks for doing this, it's great to see what happens when you have a 100AH lithium battery set-up (which is normal) as opposed to some other youtubers who have 200-400AH set-ups and go on about how good it works. It confirms that I should just stick to my gas set-up (for now) and use the battery for basic appliances like my toaster and when I eventually get a second lithium battery, then think about using induction.
Don't know if anyone else has mentioned it but you should get a cheap air fryer and give that a spin. I'm thinking of getting one for the ute as we use one at home all the time and it is great. I think the smaller 3.5L ones run about 1500w
Love that you're testing budget friendly options! Here's my two cents... 100-120ah lithium battery is sweet for a typical set-up (fridge/ lights/ charging devices), could probably add travel buddy at a stretch, but you need to double the battery capacity (and solar in) to go 100% induction cooking. The whole point camping is to not have to worry or be stressed so I'll stick with gas/ fire cooking for now I reckon. Will keep the battery healthy for longer too, lithium is getting cheaper but not so cheap that I can afford to burn through them unnecessarily... PS. you can always add a basic windbreak to make your butane cooker more efficient, or cook downwind from your vehicle
I must say, I am subscribed to many channels, but this channel is definitely up there with my favourites. Well produced, very professional. Just great seeing some young guys and girls, getting out there and sharing great information. Thank you, well done, looking forward to more great vids. Cheers Tony
Something i quickly discovered making two coffees while camping, the standalone milk frothers from kmart froth twice the milk in half the time, and also draw 550w so less strain on the battery. Make your coffee with a mini espresso maker and the milk with the standalone frother and thank me later. They're only around $15, and make a really great fast way to make a hot choc as well
This old man enjoys watching yours and your cohorts videos - y'all really got it going on. It's great that you try this while home or local so you have familiarity with the process if needed when off remote. We run drills twice a year to see how fast we can load-out and then check inventory and re-stock anything needed. IMHO, electric cooking when remote isn't a good idea (should be reserved for emergencies due to being a power hog) - we keep at least 2 beefed-up heavy-duty home-made Copenhagen Solar Cookers behind the seats to use when there are no fire conditions. We also love our Stove-Tec Rocket Stoves and our Deadwood Rocket Stove when at the farm and remote.
I have a king's 1500w inverter and I have a 140ah agm set up. I only really use it for makita battery charging and I've used it for a sandwich toaster, I kept the car running while using it. I also upgraded the cables to a 2bs cable so It can handle around 200amps, should be less voltage drop too. Awesome video bro, you have climbed to my fav 4x4 channel!
Get a piece of 4mm mason board from Bunnings. They come in 2400 x 1200mm and you just need to trim it a bit to make it fit under the mattress. Then you don't need the double mattress. Last time I went camping with friends I brought some ply sheets and laid them on the gravel under the tent and swags.
That kings battery has a maximum sustained discharge of 100 amps. At around 12 volts it works out to be roughly 1200 watts. At those discharge rates the internal resistance in the battery will begin to show and will begin to drop the pack voltage + heat the battery cells causing everything to be inefficient. What you need is another battery in parallel (double the capacity + larger discharge) OR a bigger lithium battery rated to a higher constant discharge.
This is my exact problem, and I'm finding a lot of variable induction cooktops cycle on and off at full tilt, rather than using less power on a consists basis
good stuff Pat. We tried induction in our camper without success so now we use the solar for lights and refrig and pumps etc and do our cooking on a twin burner gas cooker with a single burner on standby. No stressing about our fridges not having enough voltage and no megabucks spent on system upgrades. We are a couple of old bushies as well so there isn't many fossicking spots we end up at that we cant have a campfire. I cant wait to see how all this fangled stuff goes on the big trip mate.
well done for trying this out! personally we're cooking off grid with lithium and induction. Its awesome. The biggest issue is definitely the battery in your scenario. I'm surprised the kings lithium is sagging so much with the load not even hitting its BMS max output. Bit of a stitch up on their part. Get a good reputable lithium battery 200AH minimum. Ensure max output of the BMS is greater than 100A induction cooker should be able to boil and sear on about 1000w so not much need to go higher than that. (Breville -$50 goodguys) Inverter will need large cables and to be mounted as close as possible to battery to minimise volt drop.
mate , try an air fryer. I have a 300Ah lithium and when running a 2000W inverter, tried an induction cooker first. you can lower them down to about 1000W to work with your inverter. An air fryer is the way to go though for sure. granted i went to a 3000W inverter but they don't run the whole time. the duty cycle is like 25% so very efficient.
I have a 1500w inverter in my 80 aswell but I use a 140 amp AGM BATTERY I can't even boil my kettle is a 1250w very frustrating so I use low wattage appliances like 850w toaster 1000w kettle 1100w coffee pod maker works for me keep the Vids up Pat and have a great holiday with your beautiful Wife to be cheers legends
I run induction off my 1000w inverter and 125amp hour batter without issue. Inverter and battery are Enerdrive so good quality. Also have decent gauge and short cables from battery to inverter. Also have a travel buddy. Look forward to more of your videos.
A bit late with my comment but for what it's worth. I have lived with off grid power for over 20 years and Lithium batteries are a game changer. Since I went over to Lithium, I have been able to run soooo much more from my system.
I mean... Electric cooking is great and all but by the time you spend 5 grand on the all the tip gear to run it.. i bought a 175ah lithium slimline, run everything including the diesel heater all night in the winter.. and still only drop my battery to 80% which means it will last year's.. So this cost me around $1600 and compared to $5000 I still don't reckon I could spend $3400 bucks on gas.. for camping.. ever.. lol Each to there own but I use a little all for adventure glass top butane fry pan and man you can cook anything in that little sucker, from meals for 4 people to just bacon and eggs.. and the pest thing about it is no more carting around a heap of pots and pans with me.. and there's 1 pan to wash up and that's it.. more time for drinkin beers 🍺🤙
Turn the fridge off when cooking. As when the fridge motor kicks on the current draw spikes then settles down. Ie if an appliance says 1000w with a peak of 1500w. When you turn it on it draws 1500w then settles to the 1000w. Happy glamping.
Ha mate l agree with one of the other comments, you need to up the earth cable on the kings inverter as its way to small. I did that and l run a coffee machine at 1600w plus my travel buddy with no problem and l have a voltex lithium battery 100amp. It was a game changer for my set up.
Heya, I've bought an "Aussie Battery" brand lithium 330 amp/hr triple BMS. The amp draw is insane, from memory around 250 amps set up in 12 v system. Only paid $1800. Couldn't be happier with it. May be an option having a chat with these guys, doing an honest review for a free battery!! Never know, enjoy ya vids😁
I have an old Yamaha generator that I got for $50usd. I get induction for the most part but a small/quiet generator isn’t a bad idea. This thing is small enough to haul around so you don’t have to worry about all the problems mentioned. Great video though. Good content as always.
It is the battery output that is the limiting factor not the inverter. The Kings battery is only able to output 100 amps. If you had a itech for example they output 150 amps which would run your inverter properly at 1500watts. Because the Kings won't do the amps you get a hit on the volts. Hope this helps. Your options would be parallel 2 x batties, I think the Kings bms should allow this BUT check or upgrade to a battery with more amperage output and a better BMS
You’re a natural, a funny and educational video mate, you’re giving it a crack and working it out too. Get rid of some of the crap out of the 80 for more panels, more batteries and a bigger inverter if you want to run the travel buddy, coffee machine and hot plate and god knows what else all at once, solar electricity is a numbers game and then hope for some sun… Even Elon can’t defy the laws of electricity… I’m like you, never thought I’d see induction, lithium, inverters in my rig, but binge watching videos like these, it’s happening, I’m excited and gas will become the back up.. I’m also colourblind so I don’t play around with electricity much, mix up wires and you can start popping electronics, but I do want to understand basic fundamentals of a good solar setup. Going against judgement and wisdom I’m going to give Kings lithium batteries and electronic gear a good go. Not shitting on their products but Kings gear can be 10 times cheaper than other brands, plus buying a Kings camper outright, I get a $2000 voucher, yeah, might need two trolleys.. Are you guys planning more travels and more product testing?
got a very similar setup, custom 150ah lithium (200amp discharge) 2000w invertor and the kmart induction, i also struggle cooking with my battery, i have semi figured it out by putting a better DCDC charger to charge the battery while driving. helped hugely! current solar panel is 200w thats also not enough and will be putting on a 250w panel soon.. to help with when i base camp.. but i seriously think to have a sustainable setup cooking with elec is to have 200Ah lithium as a min!
120amp lithium batteries usually have a discharge rating of 100 amps which is approximately 1200w. Induction cookers draw between 1000w to 2000w depending on its heat setting. You are running additional fridge + lights hence why the BMS is shutting off the battery. AGM batteries do not have a BMS integrated, thus they can run inverters more effectively. If you want to run a fully functional lithium battery you must invest in a 200 AMP which generally has between 150/200 amp discharge rating, which means you can easily crank to about 1800w/2400w.
@@AussieArvos predicted you would run into this problem when I saw your setup :) invest in another kings lithium and your set for a long time. In fact they have a promotion which ends tomorrow where you get $500 off the 200amp lithium, just under $1000. Then you will have a 3000w discharge rating when hooked to your 120 lithium.
Amp hours is the measure of battery capacity. Amps is the actual current and watts (current x voltage) is the power. Regardless of the amp hours capacity of the battery, it will have a max current and power draw rating. The reason your power cuts out is because the current draw is higher than the battery can sustain. Rig up more batteries in parallel to increase the max current draw and you’ll be golden.
Informative episode.👍 Great tip on the step up voltage converter for the Travel Buddy. Lithium is definitely the way forward. I'm looking at a 200Ah Lithium setup, as I'm looking into induction cooking too. I'm just waiting for my existing AGM battery setup to kick the bucket before making the changes. Though not sure once I've made the switch to lithium, that I'll be bringing a coffee maker. 😁
The solution is perhaps to use a Remoska whilst you are driving powered by the alternator. The Standard Remoska is 470w and the Grand 580w confirmed with a plug in watt monitor. Brilliant bit of kit and FB has a superb group covering how to use them.
Another great vid mate keep em coming.Always fun trying out new mods and working out the best way to set yourself up for going bush or beach. Good idea to test your new mods before going away. One of the better mods i did was to change the ladder on the earlier foldout roof top tents from the not so great sliding ladder that came with the tent to a newer fully extendable ladder like the one on your rooftop tent. Very easy to change over and very affordable and seeing that the missus nearly fell off the old ladder(almost folded in half) because i didn,t set it up right first night we used it ,the new ladder made a huge difference and saved me a lot of suffering.
A couple thoughts: try an "instant hot" water device that has an insulated water tank that uses less watts at once. This will be gentler on your battery as well as giving you more convenience over a kettle. Next I would like to weigh electric cooking with solar panel against a solar reflective cooker hybrid approach. There are a few off the shelf products becoming more popular now for this.
Another top video. Really enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work. I would be cutting off the cig plug and putting on an anderson plug on the 12v oven.
Someone has probably already commented this but I think you are in lower state of charge than you think. Doesnt the battery have bluetooth app? Bluetooth BMS or a really good ah-counter ( like victron bmv-712, not cheap..). Thats the only thing that can give you correct state of charge. Voltage is not applicable with lithium. At least charge the battery fully with lithium charger ( like you have been driving all day. I use microwave oven and kettle. Some frying with induction ( breakfast pancakes, bacon n eggs). And i use mainly my still going 190A agm ( cheap start-stop battery). But its charged fully almost every day since 2018 since its my workcar too. So, state of charge is the most inportant whatever batterytype..
If that Hot Plate is really 1200W then it will draw 100A at 12V (92.3A at 13V). So the 66A draw on setting 4 means it’s only drawing about 800W. Also you need grunty cables to pull 100A+ (which your battery can’t even provide). Your inverter at 12V and 1500W would be 125A, the battery is rated to 100A max continuous. Travel Buddy won’t draw 3A. They are 130W so at 12V that’s 10.8A. My KickAss one draws about 11A (13A with the light on). Best to turn off the fridge and Travel Buddy when using the Inverter at high loads. The step-up voltage converter for the Travel Buddy will shorten it’s lifespan as it’s not designed to run on higher voltages - also it will almost certainly void any warranty you may have. Keep that in mind. That was 850mAh (not mA) just to preheat the machine mind you. Not to make the coffee. I use a pod machine when camping as it’s so much easier to use with none of the cleaning and fluffing about with coffee grounds. Your Ah capacity is fine at 120Ah. Not fine for very much cooking though as 120Ah will vanish fast. It’s just the battery (or inverter) can’t sustain the power draw. You also should run the inverter directly off the battery and not through any intermediary things except maybe a switch, fuse and a shunt if you NEED to measure it’s usage. I run my inverter directly off my battery which never shuts off - but if I draw too much power for the inverter - the inverter will trip. But my lights and fridge will keep going as they are not affected by the inverter tripping. I’ve never had the BMS shut off power except when the battery got to 0% SoC. When using gas to cook its best to use a shield to keep the wind away as gas will take much much longer to heat when it’s windy - sometimes it will never heat if too windy. Also be mindful of terms Amps and AmpHours. At the end you said the system was using 42Ah when I think you mean Amps.
Inverter wattage ratings are based on what the inverter draws from the battery, not what it supplies on the 230v side. Most inverters are 80-95% efficient depending on quality. Your 2000w inverter is providing around 1600w.
Firstly, your food looks absolutely awesome and so very tasty! (except the wedges, didn't have me 100% convinced with those, especially with how long they took haha! I'm sure they were awesome though!) I currently run everything through a 1300 watt 100 ah portable power station. All 240v (but my lights and a few other things are USB chargable). I initially looked at those portable ovens like you have, but ended up instead with a $79 oven (it's about the size of a microwave sort of) which I can cook pretty much anything in, no preheating required either. Takes pretty much the time of a "normal" oven to cook things too. Uses 1200 watts. I also got some cheap appliances from Kmart (microwave $52 uses about 1200 ish watts) and the best buy ever, their $22 sandwich press (1000 watts) which I can cook anything from toasted sandwiches, to steak etc. You might even be able to cook your wedges in there! To give you an idea, to cook a toasted sandwich, it uses less than 10% of my total amp hours. I got an induction cooktop from eBay which is good also for cooking - put a lid on top, will cook faster ;) I can do roast veggies also in the oven, which generally takes an hour, that uses 40% of my 100 amp hours. I've also made cake, boiled water etc in this tiny little 300 watt nostalgia brand pan (Kmart have them too, different name though they look the same - 15 bucks I think?). It's all 100% possible. I use no gas, no diesel - just the power of the sun. I haven't done a setup with the separate components like you have here, but am looking into doing that when I can in the instance I want to run a heater or aircon ever (currently have neither). Happy travels, and thanks for the videos :)
i've done some research for a 12v system, using electric cooking is min 2 to 3 batteries, so my system i will be making is going to have 3 lithium batteries at 100ah just to handle the spike draw of the appliances i will be using, and constant draw for the few minutes they will be on.
thought i let ya know. your running the induction at 1200watt which is 100amps. battery is only rated at a discharge of 100 amps and 125 i think for a peak. keep that in mind. your inverter is rated alot higher than your battery output.
Better quality battery is needed. The lithium battery should be steady at over 12v right up until last 10 percent of capacity. I have 2 100 amp sphere lithium and run 200 amp microwave for 15 minutes without any issues even induction cook top.
hope u guys enjoyed Frazer. we stopped going a few years ago because of the ridicules fire bans. we go to Moreton now n have wonderful camp fires every night.
Reckon that the limiting factor is the output current of your lithium battery, not the capacity. 120Ah is enough. But if it can only provide it at a low rate for example 50amps per hour, and your cooktop is drawing 80 amps per hour (just an example) then your battery voltage will drop and bms in your battery will cut the connection. That is why your coffee machine works fine (lower current) but the induction cooktop doesn’t unless it is at a lower setting.
I had similar experiences running on Jura super automatic coffee machine. The power consumption is 1450W but Kings 1500W inverter beeps like yours although my AGM battery were charged and displayed at least 12V.
Very nice video. I just bought a 50eur 2000w amazon induction cooker. My setup is 2x 100wp pannels 1x 100 Ah German battery with 113 Ah usable 2000w 230v Chinese inverter My setup can be Bluetooth monitored so I can check live what power I use My nespresso uses 1450w for 1 coffee which translates to 5 A draw I use it to heat water for 1 cup of tea too, I just don't insert any pad. The cooker is something else. What you read is false. My cooker, when showing 1200w draws 1400; when showing 1600, nearly 1950w and the max power just stops the inverter, which means it's above 2300w. For pasta, there is a "boil water" button and I'll use that. I'll end up drawing 20 - 23 A I've tried several watt configurations and it doesn't matter if you use 1200 or 1600w, it will boil the same, you'll just end using more power. I only use solar power. So as long as there is sun for a few hours, you can cook every day at least once. But, if there is no sun to recharge your battery, you might end up eating sandwiches for a few days :)
What's your max amp draw on your Battery ? 50amp it will cut out, I have a max 200amp draw on my battery and works well, I use induction all the time and 13 volt oven no problem, but my inverter also 1500 will cut on any big pulling items, you need a bigger amp draw on your battery then it will be good 👍
Wouldn't be a bad idea to make up a wind break for the butane cooker. Can be made out of cardboard but for durability can make it out of 2mm steel and some piano hinge. Inexpensive and effective.
Pat not sure if you read any of my comments eg hoist adjustment, some induction cook tops work on lower settings by pulsing full power, so your induction cook top maybe pulsing 2000 w for 50% of the time so they tell you it’s 1000w. Not all do this so if you have a marginal battery in terms of bms it may not cope. High end induction cooktops apparently don’t “pulse”
I'm thinking its the battery quality letting you down, or you have voltage loss through your wiring. My previous setup had a single 100Ah DCS Lithium & 3000w Redarc inverter, I could hammer it with no dramas at all.... ever. I've since moved that setup into my camper trailer (Kings btw, so can't label me a brand snob haha) with 4x VoltX 100Ah batteries so there's always enough headroom to support the inverter with a larger load, like a toaster & coffee machine running at the same time. Travel Buddy's certainly need the buck-boost converter. Running them on 14.5-15v makes them perform way better. Always enjoy your content, keep it up.
As you have probably found out now , it’s not the battery it’s your induction cooker. The induction cooker works like a micro wave. Lower settings just have a fully on time and a fully off time. The inverter is trying to provide this digital on off power requirement so you think that you are getting an analogue turn down of power.
What you pay for is what you get. Induction cooking is costly, not all lithium batteries can sustain a huge current draw for a long period. Itech lithium does Peak power output to a peak draw of 270 amps with a sustained output of 175 amps for 5 minutes, and 150 amps continuously. Kings does output up to 160A of peak current for 10 seconds. Do your research before you invest $$$$$$. Loving the new setup. All neat and tidy.
The issue isn't the AH/capacity of the battery it comes down to the quality of the cells within the battery and the bms. The bms will be rated to a particular amperage for continuous discharge I suspect it is 50 A for this battery. A higher end battery and bms pairing would typically allow for 100A continuous discharge without the voltage drop you are dealing with.
Main issue is not a big enough battery I run 2 x 120amp lithium with 2000w enerdrive invertor I luv electric but its not cheap to setup, you could buy a lot of gas for what it costs to setup, but elec is so convenient My biggest issue is the appliance cupboard is taking over the car: pull out slide with twin induction cooktop, pie maker, sandwich maker, coffee pod machine, milk jug heat and froth milk, and forget the travel buddy an 1300w air fryer is light years better imo One more thing your cast iron pan will work on induction cooktop as will most steel or stainless steel, just aluminium cookware wont work
The biggest issue you are experiencing is a 100AH draw from the battery and as the battery gets flat, the power output reduces. Best move is either a 24v system or a gruntier 12v battery (150AH or 200AH output).
Hey the dubble butane one from Kmart! It’s the best, yes it dubble the size but it’s dubble the cooker and has a full size hot plate bbq that can cook a 24 pack of snags all it once
I'd be really keen to see if you swapped for a different 120Ah lithium of a different brand whether you would have the same cut out. Great episode and it is making me think how large a system I will need to build. I want portability so it won't be a permanent installation more solar generator size. Cheers 🍻
I have an allspark lithium 100amp battery. And I have pulled over 100amp successfully using an enerdrive inverter without any severe voltage drop. Might be the cable size contributing to the voltage drop or just the kings equipment/battery not up to the task
Not to do with your inverter setup. But for the rooftop tent I run a 20Ah power bank sits in one of the pockets, charges my phone 4 times and can run the led strip light. Food for thought, I just didn’t wanna run cables in and around it
I tried the Kmart induction cooker, returned after first trip. Went with the ikea one and has been great for $59. Love the travel buddy mod. Your shunt must be reading wrong as the system is drawing well over 60A
Whats the difference in your experience, what makes the ikea one better? I have two of the kmart ones and love them, i would love to know what makes the ikea one better as i could be in for an upgrage!
I haven't read all the comments but the reason you may be having a problem is some induction cooktops even though they may say you're only set to 1000 watts thay are actually still running at their maximum Watts say 2000 Watts, they are just turn the power on and off with a relay to imitate 1000 watts of heat output.
Im curious about that wiring job you did - splicing the new USB plug into the LED strip. Does the existing wiring and fusing work with the extra load of the USB ports? Also, what connectors did you use? Looked like mebbe electrical tape? I assume so. Just thought I’d ask. P.S. yer vids are awesome. I really appreciate and am able to learn from your speaking/teaching style. Works for me. Very approachable and inviting. Thanks for that. Keep it coming.
... and dare I say, looking over, I should say pouring over many vids about solar and induction cooking the battery is they key. If you have a LiFePO4 battery make sure the output is a true figure of the capacity ie; 200Ah can sustain 200Amps continuous output, not a lower figure like 120Amps. This makes a huge difference for the Inverter and the appliances you want to hook up. I've migrated to two 200Ah batteries that can deliver a true 200Amps each so maxing the 1800W induction cook with fridge and travel buddy on, with lights at night seems to be no problem. The solar seem to recover the system with a couple of hours. Expensive? Well it's the end game not a starter nor a system under construction. I could easily hook up the camp trailer and power my house when the bills get too much!
Good to see. I've been following your adventures and thought of similar things (just was deciding on battery and inverter). I have the old kmart butane stove and also got the kmart fry pans which I see you finally got - they work great on the campmaster. I'm a bit iffy on inverters and induction but I have bought a small breville espresso maker which I hoped to use eventually (was a fan of their dual boiler BES900) but bought a non boiler thermojet/instantaneous espresso machine similar to how all the smaller machines are. For cooking backup as well as the kmart campmaster butane I also bought a Dometic Lpg baby grill as back up - CBP101. E: Also looking into an evakool DC40 drawer fridge/freezer to mainly use as a freezer. Because of your video I'm now looking into the travel buddy pie warmer too! I guess I'll need more battery capacity after watching this.
I would recomend a battery capable of 200A continuous draw for cooking - The issue you will face is depleting the battery with the high draw cooking and not having sufficient solar to recharge it when you are camped up - your Kings battery is spec as 100A, yet has issues delivering this (perhaps some further testing here and then talking with Kings.) My understanding is that the battery should not go under voltage whilst delivering 100A continuous untill virtually flat.
I am guessing it’s the discharge capacity of the battery. My lithium iron phosphate battery and bms is rated at 150 amp/h discharge rates. I have 150amp/h capacity battery diy from individual cells and a bms and it’s charged from a 50amp renogy DC/DC charger. It runs a fridge 24\7 without any issues and it’s even sat without the truck running for over a week without any issues. I have an induction cooker I want to incorporate into my setup, just need to get a 2k watt inverter. I have a 100 watt solar panel to go up on the rack but ended up in the hospital with a triple heart bypass so that’s gonna have to wait for a few months.
I have the exact same induction stove and it keeps on tripping just like yours. It’s good to know what’s causing the problem. BTW I have 2 x 120 lithium batteries and it does the same thing!!
a twin burner gas stove and a small gas bottle will work very well for camp cooking. the cooker would take up as much room as the butane stove and hot plate and the gas bottle can be stored on your rear bar.
Great video mate! Multiple batteries seems like the solution. Dash off road had a video a year or so back running into similar issues. Keep up the good vids
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Essentially this issue comes down to the voltage of the battery getting too low when we are drawing the high current from it. As a lithium battery has a BMS (battery Management System) that is designed to keep all the cells happy and healthy as soon as the voltage drops below 11.3 power is cut. you would almost have a better shot using AGM or Lead Acid or Gel for this battery size as they do not have BMS and allow you to draw as much as the battery can handle! (this is not healthy for the lifespan of the battery and of course those batteries have many disadvantages compared to lithium). And as i mention this could also come down to the quality of the cells in the kings battery, or even the quality of the BMS but i think if you are buying lithium with the intention to cook using electricity i would be buying no less the 200Ah.
You shouldn't get a huge voltage drop with lifepo4 even with a .5c discharge 60amp should be fine id assume the bms is limited to about that with this quality of battery anyway id be measuring voltage directly at the battery and also at the inverter to see if your voltage drop isn't coming from there but thinking now its the bms cutting of not the inverter reaching a low voltage disconnect id say the bms wire size cant handle 60amps and thats where the voltage drop is coming from or a faulty cell the wire size on all bms's is usually undersized
im still in the ads but I thought the lithium had a built in voltage regulator also. even if high current draw ?
@@brentmcd12 no they have a bms battery management system to protect individual cells most bms's now have balancers too to keep cells in balance but if you look at a discharge curve even with a high discharge its a very stable curve untill you reach ethier end of the scale thats why its basically impossible to use voltage as a state of charge at 15%-90% voltages are near identical
May have already thought of it but is the gauge of cable enough for 50A plus? May find a bit of resistance is causing the drop.
Is there some kind of voltage regulator that could fix this?
I appreciated this video 👍
Pat this is what i think your issue is here. Your Kings 120ah lithium battery is only rated at 100A continuous discharge. 100A x 12v = 1200W. So if you have the cooktop running at 1200W that already maxes out the battery's discharge rate. There is simply nothing left for anything else (including the inverter itself). The simple fix for this is to add another 120ah battery and run them in parallel so that you essentially have 2400W of continous discharge. You also get the added bonus of the extra 120ah capacity.
Hi mate, i work at a battery manufacturer in Brisbane, and i can tell you something is up with either the wiring or the battery or the charger. A full lithium sits at about 13.8 volts, 13.1 is very low, just run over your charging system. The BMS cuts are usually because one of the cell banks has dropped too low, so yea, really check over your charging setup.
Agreed, I would have a guess there is some sub-par wiring either between the charging system and the battery, or the battery and the inverter. The voltage seems quite low.
Running the travel buddy at the same time is probably a big ask, but there is no good reason to why that 120ah (100A continuous, 160A peak) battery and the 1,500w inverter can't power that induction cooktop on the 800w setting (they use 850w at the wall on that setting)
Probably a good chance the wire included with the kings inverter is too small, and not sure if the inverter is running through one of those lever type breakers, but if so the voltage drop across that would be a huge contributor. Between the safety in the bms, and the internal fuses inside the inverter, a direct connection between battery and inverter with short cables and no breakers should be ok. If you do run a fuse, it should be a 200-250a class T.
A good investment when doing elaborate setups like this is a thermal camera, even a really cheap one, will help find faults or high resistance connections very quickly. Guarantee those lever type breakers will be lighting up like a Christmas tree. Also worth noting the kmart induction cooker on the temperature control setting pulses power, as do the wattage settings below 800w. The 1000w setting draws around 1050w from the inverter, and with conversion losses that equates to around 130a from the battery.
@@lexicase8805 If that was the case, the amp meter would also indicate 130 amps from the battery. It just seems like the internal wiring, the internal resistance, or the bms of the kings battery just isn't up to scratch.
I make batteries for a living, and i was pulling 160 amps out of a 100ah battery yesterday and getting 12.8 volts.
@@colinsmith6340 i think you're absolutely correct, i commented while watching the video and made an assumption, but yes for the bms to be cutting off like that it has to be internal. Looks like the free battery that was given to cover damage caused by a faulty product is now also faulty! Not looking good for kings 😅
Go buy a cast iron pan with a full cast iron handle wrap the cast iron pan in alfoil and mount it near or on your exhaust manifold while your driving then it's hot for when you want to start cooking remove the alfoil and it should be clean and ready to go
For anyone interested in induction cooking - BCF sell 3 piece induction pot set, and 3 piece frying pan set, with removable handles. They're pretty affordable and pack down a lot better than pots/pans with fixed handles. Plus they're non-stick so you use a lot less water when washing up. I think i paid about $40 per set (but don't quote me on this).
Removable handles sounds awesome! thanks for the tip!!
Not listed at BCF. Got a link?
@@grahameroberts8109 it’s the wanderer non stick set
I have the same Andrew and they’re fantastic. I also have the non stick roaster. I tend to use the lid more than the base as it can be used as a griddle for salmon, haloumi, steak etc.
Yep we have this set aswel and it's Awesome
Sounds like the kings 120A lithium battery is 50A max continuous Amp draw and not 100A like on the website.
With your travel buddy at 4A and fridge at 2-3A when you go to 800w with the induction cook top to sits at the 45-48A mark, any higher it trips the BMS of the lithium battery.
The only way to fix it is to buy a proper lithium battery brand with real world tested specs or get another battery and run it in parallel so you have twice the amp draw capability.
Dude keep up this content it is awesome.
The travel buddy draws more than 4 amps or what ever he stated in the video. He had it pre heat for 45 minutes, cooking for 45, and extra cooking for 45, thats like 2+hours. Thats least 20 amps (10 amps an hour) and old mate said it only used 4 amp hours of battery. His battery monitor is wrong.
I'm running 2 x 120amp lithiums (Itechworld) with a 2000 watt inverter and ran a 1800 watt air fryer for 20 minutes pulling 185amps while the heating element was on as a test and still had 80 odd percent of the batteries left. Have since got a smaller 1300 watt air fryer and its perfect. Also use 2 x 200 watt folding solar blankets which put back around 22amps per hour
Interesting video, some great ideas here.
I would have to disagree about the cause of your problem.
I have a 200AH lithium setup myself and was looking for a coffee maker to plug in to my inverter. The small Nespresso machines are 1300 watts so my 1,000 watt inverter won't do that.
The problem with going to a 1500w inverter is that my Lithium battery is rated at 100amp maximum draw, as is the Kings 120AH lithium you are running. This means that you can get a theoretical maximum of 1200w (W=VxA). When running through an inverter you will get losses due to the cabling and the inverter itself so it will realistically be closer to 1100w.
This, I believe, is the cause of your power cutting out. Your battery can hold a 160A draw for 10sec but it will not provide more than 100A for sustained periods.
Amps draw and Amp hours are two different issues.
The solution, if you have the space and the bucks, is to run two batteries in parallel thus doubling the available current.
Lithium batteries are available with higher current ratings but obviously cost more.
. doubling the battery won't allow 200a draw as each battery has an independent bms only allowing 100a constant draw. although it might stop the voltage drop his getting at 60a draw.
I would have thought the lithium wouldn't see that much voltage drop under that load. maybe the difference between high end cells and cheap cells.
@@mathewsimonelli1332 sorry mate but 100 +100 =200.
@@mathewsimonelli1332 spot on
@@Jack-is8xz will equal 200 amp hours not 200 amp of discharg current available
@@mathewsimonelli1332 it will work if wired in parallel. It won't if wired in series. The bms on one battery will not limit the other for current draw.
The induction cooker does not run continuously at the set wattage. The set wattage is to indicate how much power will be used in a hour. The induction stove pulses, using max power. The slower the pulsing the less power is used in 1 hour. The higher the setting the faster the pulsing and the more strain on the inverter and battery. The inverter needs to be oversized as well as the battery.
Great video, mate. I've been running inverter cooking on a budget system for a couple of years now. Hell, I even started with a Kings 100AH AGM and the inverter/induction cooking. Killed the AGM after some time, but it worked well.
The great thing about going electric is the maths. If you work out what you need with the math it will work. I don't know what your system consists of behind the battery to the inverter but if I was to take a guess, there is a large loss occurring between the battery and the inverter. Cabling size is crucial plus the distance of cabling has an effect on resistance. Resistance means heat, heat means loss. Your volt drop is because the inverter wants the amps/watts, it will try and take what it needs in amps/watts from the battery to service the inverter demand but because there is resistance, something has to give and that's volts. As the heat increases the resistance increases which makes the problem exponentially worse over time.
I now have a quality 200AH lithium but evolved from the 100AH AGM to a 100AH budget lithium. The cabling is AWG 0000 (12mm dia) with the longest length of about 500mm. Pulling 120amp continuous, the cables are just slightly above ambient temp to touch.
Enerdrive have a very helpful cabling table on their website to help with cable selection.
Simply because of the black DayZ T-shirt, I've subbed. Very stylish.
I enjoy my shirt, and I've also got a tumbler with the same dayz (and also opposite) included my first initial and last name graphed onto the tumbler 😊
It was a gift from a sweet heart, and I really appreciated the reminiscing along the great video tempo.
Cheers for the great video as well as being just my style, mate.. "on par!"
I run two induction cook plates with cast-iron and steel fry pans with a 300w solar panel that usually outputs about 200-230 watts into my 2000w battery generator. I never loose power cooking. I also have USB tent lights and heated blankets.
Your setup is excellent and it will work fine with the inductive cook top, but a few small details you need to take care of that are letting you down. First, check the voltage at the battery terminals with a multimeter. Turn on the load and see if it actually drops to 11V. If it does, the BMS is faulty or badly wired to the terminals. Kings need to replace the battery.
If that checks out ok, the voltage drop will be occurring between the battery terminals and the inverter. Check connections and upgrade them, check fuses and any kills switches from the battery to the inverter by measuring the voltage drop across each components terminals and finally check each cable, positive and negative from the battery terminal to the inverter.
The cables that Kings provides are way under size for 2kW as you need to allow for something like 200A when the battery capacity depletes and its voltage goes down to 11V when the maximum current will be drawn from the battery by the Inverter.
I suggest you run 95mm2 cable (for 3m return battery to inverter and back).
Nicely said. I run 95m㎡ cables directly from my 300Ah Lithium (200A max continuous) to my 3kW Inverter. It happily powers my 2400W Ninja Foodi Flip Air Fryer or my 2200W Induction Cooktop.
[Obviously being limited to 200A continuous I can’t run the inverter at max. I chose to buy one 300Ah battery instead of say a pair of 175Ah/200Ah or whatever].
Good one to test your system.👍 There's no greater peace of mind knowing what you're taking on a trip works its intended design. FYI... I don't preheat when cooking with a Travel Buddy. It just seems like a waste of power. I just chuck in the food and turn it on. I simply add about 20%-30% cooking time. And it works each time. I too am looking into induction cooking. but would need to upgrade my 1500W inverter to a 2000W version, for greater flexibility and peace of mind. Might look into a voltage step-up converter. Thanks for sharing. 👌
Thanks for doing this, it's great to see what happens when you have a 100AH lithium battery set-up (which is normal) as opposed to some other youtubers who have 200-400AH set-ups and go on about how good it works. It confirms that I should just stick to my gas set-up (for now) and use the battery for basic appliances like my toaster and when I eventually get a second lithium battery, then think about using induction.
Don't know if anyone else has mentioned it but you should get a cheap air fryer and give that a spin. I'm thinking of getting one for the ute as we use one at home all the time and it is great. I think the smaller 3.5L ones run about 1500w
Love that you're testing budget friendly options! Here's my two cents... 100-120ah lithium battery is sweet for a typical set-up (fridge/ lights/ charging devices), could probably add travel buddy at a stretch, but you need to double the battery capacity (and solar in) to go 100% induction cooking. The whole point camping is to not have to worry or be stressed so I'll stick with gas/ fire cooking for now I reckon. Will keep the battery healthy for longer too, lithium is getting cheaper but not so cheap that I can afford to burn through them unnecessarily... PS. you can always add a basic windbreak to make your butane cooker more efficient, or cook downwind from your vehicle
Top advice, more batteries, more panels, especially with induction plates, kettles toasters, toasty makers, coffeemakers, foot spa’s coming on…
I must say, I am subscribed to many channels, but this channel is definitely up there with my favourites. Well produced, very professional. Just great seeing some young guys and girls, getting out there and sharing great information. Thank you, well done, looking forward to more great vids. Cheers Tony
Thank you Tony! that really means alot! :)
Something i quickly discovered making two coffees while camping, the standalone milk frothers from kmart froth twice the milk in half the time, and also draw 550w so less strain on the battery. Make your coffee with a mini espresso maker and the milk with the standalone frother and thank me later. They're only around $15, and make a really great fast way to make a hot choc as well
This old man enjoys watching yours and your cohorts videos - y'all really got it going on. It's great that you try this while home or local so you have familiarity with the process if needed when off remote. We run drills twice a year to see how fast we can load-out and then check inventory and re-stock anything needed. IMHO, electric cooking when remote isn't a good idea (should be reserved for emergencies due to being a power hog) - we keep at least 2 beefed-up heavy-duty home-made Copenhagen Solar Cookers behind the seats to use when there are no fire conditions. We also love our Stove-Tec Rocket Stoves and our Deadwood Rocket Stove when at the farm and remote.
I’ve got air frier, microwave, induction cook top. But I’ve just got a simple generator from kings and it’s all been working well
I have a king's 1500w inverter and I have a 140ah agm set up. I only really use it for makita battery charging and I've used it for a sandwich toaster, I kept the car running while using it. I also upgraded the cables to a 2bs cable so It can handle around 200amps, should be less voltage drop too.
Awesome video bro, you have climbed to my fav 4x4 channel!
Get a piece of 4mm mason board from Bunnings. They come in 2400 x 1200mm and you just need to trim it a bit to make it fit under the mattress.
Then you don't need the double mattress.
Last time I went camping with friends I brought some ply sheets and laid them on the gravel under the tent and swags.
That kings battery has a maximum sustained discharge of 100 amps. At around 12 volts it works out to be roughly 1200 watts. At those discharge rates the internal resistance in the battery will begin to show and will begin to drop the pack voltage + heat the battery cells causing everything to be inefficient. What you need is another battery in parallel (double the capacity + larger discharge) OR a bigger lithium battery rated to a higher constant discharge.
Exactly
This is my exact problem, and I'm finding a lot of variable induction cooktops cycle on and off at full tilt, rather than using less power on a consists basis
good stuff Pat. We tried induction in our camper without success so now we use the solar for lights and refrig and pumps etc and do our cooking on a twin burner gas cooker with a single burner on standby. No stressing about our fridges not having enough voltage and no megabucks spent on system upgrades. We are a couple of old bushies as well so there isn't many fossicking spots we end up at that we cant have a campfire. I cant wait to see how all this fangled stuff goes on the big trip mate.
I went camping with a women who took a vacuum and hairdryer I thought that was over the top but you are getting there. Cheers Steve.
You can buy a 200amp lithium battery for about $1200 and a kings 3000watt inverter for $500 and that will run pretty much anything you want
well done for trying this out!
personally we're cooking off grid with lithium and induction. Its awesome. The biggest issue is definitely the battery in your scenario. I'm surprised the kings lithium is sagging so much with the load not even hitting its BMS max output. Bit of a stitch up on their part.
Get a good reputable lithium battery 200AH minimum.
Ensure max output of the BMS is greater than 100A
induction cooker should be able to boil and sear on about 1000w so not much need to go higher than that. (Breville -$50 goodguys)
Inverter will need large cables and to be mounted as close as possible to battery to minimise volt drop.
Congratulations, you are the only camping/4wd channel I've seen use a proper espresso machine. No pod machines or plug in milk frothers. Well done.
You are very lucky to have such a cool missus too mate for the journey,
one thing you can never buy is a good person, Keep on shining Cob
mate , try an air fryer. I have a 300Ah lithium and when running a 2000W inverter, tried an induction cooker first. you can lower them down to about 1000W to work with your inverter. An air fryer is the way to go though for sure. granted i went to a 3000W inverter but they don't run the whole time. the duty cycle is like 25% so very efficient.
I have a 1500w inverter in my 80 aswell but I use a 140 amp AGM BATTERY I can't even boil my kettle is a 1250w very frustrating so I use low wattage appliances like 850w toaster 1000w kettle 1100w coffee pod maker works for me keep the Vids up Pat and have a great holiday with your beautiful Wife to be cheers legends
Congratulations on 60 thousand subscribers 🎉
Thanks Robert! :)
dig the day Z shirt, first thing my son and I played after unpacking from a 3 day trip over memorial day weekend.
I run induction off my 1000w inverter and 125amp hour batter without issue. Inverter and battery are Enerdrive so good quality. Also have decent gauge and short cables from battery to inverter. Also have a travel buddy. Look forward to more of your videos.
What induction cooker are you using? Assuming its about 1200w max?
A bit late with my comment but for what it's worth. I have lived with off grid power for over 20 years and Lithium batteries are a game changer. Since I went over to Lithium, I have been able to run soooo much more from my system.
Love seeing these king batteries tested but if you read the battery's BMS max discharge it's 50A max continuous, that's why it was having fits
I mean... Electric cooking is great and all but by the time you spend 5 grand on the all the tip gear to run it.. i bought a 175ah lithium slimline, run everything including the diesel heater all night in the winter.. and still only drop my battery to 80% which means it will last year's..
So this cost me around $1600 and compared to $5000 I still don't reckon I could spend $3400 bucks on gas.. for camping.. ever.. lol
Each to there own but I use a little all for adventure glass top butane fry pan and man you can cook anything in that little sucker, from meals for 4 people to just bacon and eggs.. and the pest thing about it is no more carting around a heap of pots and pans with me.. and there's 1 pan to wash up and that's it.. more time for drinkin beers 🍺🤙
Turn the fridge off when cooking. As when the fridge motor kicks on the current draw spikes then settles down.
Ie if an appliance says 1000w with a peak of 1500w. When you turn it on it draws 1500w then settles to the 1000w.
Happy glamping.
Ha mate l agree with one of the other comments, you need to up the earth cable on the kings inverter as its way to small. I did that and l run a coffee machine at 1600w plus my travel buddy with no problem and l have a voltex lithium battery 100amp. It was a game changer for my set up.
Heya, I've bought an "Aussie Battery" brand lithium 330 amp/hr triple BMS. The amp draw is insane, from memory around 250 amps set up in 12 v system. Only paid $1800. Couldn't be happier with it. May be an option having a chat with these guys, doing an honest review for a free battery!! Never know, enjoy ya vids😁
I have an old Yamaha generator that I got for $50usd. I get induction for the most part but a small/quiet generator isn’t a bad idea. This thing is small enough to haul around so you don’t have to worry about all the problems mentioned. Great video though. Good content as always.
Be like camping in the city if everyone had generators and ran them 24hrs a day, they could be good if you’re way out bush by yourself…
It is the battery output that is the limiting factor not the inverter. The Kings battery is only able to output 100 amps. If you had a itech for example they output 150 amps which would run your inverter properly at 1500watts. Because the Kings won't do the amps you get a hit on the volts. Hope this helps.
Your options would be parallel 2 x batties, I think the Kings bms should allow this BUT check or upgrade to a battery with more amperage output and a better BMS
You’re a natural, a funny and educational video mate, you’re giving it a crack and working it out too. Get rid of some of the crap out of the 80 for more panels, more batteries and a bigger inverter if you want to run the travel buddy, coffee machine and hot plate and god knows what else all at once, solar electricity is a numbers game and then hope for some sun… Even Elon can’t defy the laws of electricity… I’m like you, never thought I’d see induction, lithium, inverters in my rig, but binge watching videos like these, it’s happening, I’m excited and gas will become the back up.. I’m also colourblind so I don’t play around with electricity much, mix up wires and you can start popping electronics, but I do want to understand basic fundamentals of a good solar setup. Going against judgement and wisdom I’m going to give Kings lithium batteries and electronic gear a good go. Not shitting on their products but Kings gear can be 10 times cheaper than other brands, plus buying a Kings camper outright, I get a $2000 voucher, yeah, might need two trolleys..
Are you guys planning more travels and more product testing?
got a very similar setup, custom 150ah lithium (200amp discharge) 2000w invertor and the kmart induction, i also struggle cooking with my battery, i have semi figured it out by putting a better DCDC charger to charge the battery while driving. helped hugely! current solar panel is 200w thats also not enough and will be putting on a 250w panel soon.. to help with when i base camp.. but i seriously think to have a sustainable setup cooking with elec is to have 200Ah lithium as a min!
Thanks for the info !! agreed!!
120amp lithium batteries usually have a discharge rating of 100 amps which is approximately 1200w. Induction cookers draw between 1000w to 2000w depending on its heat setting. You are running additional fridge + lights hence why the BMS is shutting off the battery. AGM batteries do not have a BMS integrated, thus they can run inverters more effectively. If you want to run a fully functional lithium battery you must invest in a 200 AMP which generally has between 150/200 amp discharge rating, which means you can easily crank to about 1800w/2400w.
Was waiting for this comment haha. Most people don't realise that they have discharge limits
Yep this
@Ryan yes two batteries combined will produce 200amp discharge rating.
Absolutely spot on ! Thanks for the info 🙏
@@AussieArvos predicted you would run into this problem when I saw your setup :) invest in another kings lithium and your set for a long time. In fact they have a promotion which ends tomorrow where you get $500 off the 200amp lithium, just under $1000. Then you will have a 3000w discharge rating when hooked to your 120 lithium.
Amp hours is the measure of battery capacity. Amps is the actual current and watts (current x voltage) is the power.
Regardless of the amp hours capacity of the battery, it will have a max current and power draw rating.
The reason your power cuts out is because the current draw is higher than the battery can sustain. Rig up more batteries in parallel to increase the max current draw and you’ll be golden.
Informative episode.👍 Great tip on the step up voltage converter for the Travel Buddy. Lithium is definitely the way forward. I'm looking at a 200Ah Lithium setup, as I'm looking into induction cooking too. I'm just waiting for my existing AGM battery setup to kick the bucket before making the changes. Though not sure once I've made the switch to lithium, that I'll be bringing a coffee maker. 😁
Thanks mate! means alot!
The solution is perhaps to use a Remoska whilst you are driving powered by the alternator. The Standard Remoska is 470w and the Grand 580w confirmed with a plug in watt monitor. Brilliant bit of kit and FB has a superb group covering how to use them.
Another great vid mate keep em coming.Always fun trying out new mods and working out the best way to set yourself up for going bush or beach. Good idea to test your new mods before going away. One of the better mods i did was to change the ladder on the earlier foldout roof top tents from the not so great sliding ladder that came with the tent to a newer fully extendable ladder like the one on your rooftop tent. Very easy to change over and very affordable and seeing that the missus nearly fell off the old ladder(almost folded in half) because i didn,t set it up right first night we used it ,the new ladder made a huge difference and saved me a lot of suffering.
Thanks so much mate! I really appreciate it! Great idea!
A couple thoughts: try an "instant hot" water device that has an insulated water tank that uses less watts at once. This will be gentler on your battery as well as giving you more convenience over a kettle. Next I would like to weigh electric cooking with solar panel against a solar reflective cooker hybrid approach. There are a few off the shelf products becoming more popular now for this.
This things got more kings gear in it that I've had hot dinners. No wonder it keeps bugging out whilst trying to pull any sort of load out of it.
Another top video. Really enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work.
I would be cutting off the cig plug and putting on an anderson plug on the 12v oven.
Someone has probably already commented this but I think you are in lower state of charge than you think. Doesnt the battery have bluetooth app? Bluetooth BMS or a really good ah-counter ( like victron bmv-712, not cheap..). Thats the only thing that can give you correct state of charge. Voltage is not applicable with lithium. At least charge the battery fully with lithium charger ( like you have been driving all day. I use microwave oven and kettle. Some frying with induction ( breakfast pancakes, bacon n eggs). And i use mainly my still going 190A agm ( cheap start-stop battery). But its charged fully almost every day since 2018 since its my workcar too. So, state of charge is the most inportant whatever batterytype..
If that Hot Plate is really 1200W then it will draw 100A at 12V (92.3A at 13V). So the 66A draw on setting 4 means it’s only drawing about 800W.
Also you need grunty cables to pull 100A+ (which your battery can’t even provide). Your inverter at 12V and 1500W would be 125A, the battery is rated to 100A max continuous.
Travel Buddy won’t draw 3A. They are 130W so at 12V that’s 10.8A. My KickAss one draws about 11A (13A with the light on).
Best to turn off the fridge and Travel Buddy when using the Inverter at high loads. The step-up voltage converter for the Travel Buddy will shorten it’s lifespan as it’s not designed to run on higher voltages - also it will almost certainly void any warranty you may have. Keep that in mind.
That was 850mAh (not mA) just to preheat the machine mind you. Not to make the coffee.
I use a pod machine when camping as it’s so much easier to use with none of the cleaning and fluffing about with coffee grounds.
Your Ah capacity is fine at 120Ah. Not fine for very much cooking though as 120Ah will vanish fast. It’s just the battery (or inverter) can’t sustain the power draw.
You also should run the inverter directly off the battery and not through any intermediary things except maybe a switch, fuse and a shunt if you NEED to measure it’s usage.
I run my inverter directly off my battery which never shuts off - but if I draw too much power for the inverter - the inverter will trip. But my lights and fridge will keep going as they are not affected by the inverter tripping. I’ve never had the BMS shut off power except when the battery got to 0% SoC.
When using gas to cook its best to use a shield to keep the wind away as gas will take much much longer to heat when it’s windy - sometimes it will never heat if too windy.
Also be mindful of terms Amps and AmpHours. At the end you said the system was using 42Ah when I think you mean Amps.
Inverter wattage ratings are based on what the inverter draws from the battery, not what it supplies on the 230v side. Most inverters are 80-95% efficient depending on quality. Your 2000w inverter is providing around 1600w.
my sticker arrived the other day and is now on my gen 2 Pajero 👍 thanks guys
Thanks for supporting the channel mate!! Really appreciate it!
Firstly, your food looks absolutely awesome and so very tasty! (except the wedges, didn't have me 100% convinced with those, especially with how long they took haha! I'm sure they were awesome though!) I currently run everything through a 1300 watt 100 ah portable power station. All 240v (but my lights and a few other things are USB chargable). I initially looked at those portable ovens like you have, but ended up instead with a $79 oven (it's about the size of a microwave sort of) which I can cook pretty much anything in, no preheating required either. Takes pretty much the time of a "normal" oven to cook things too. Uses 1200 watts. I also got some cheap appliances from Kmart (microwave $52 uses about 1200 ish watts) and the best buy ever, their $22 sandwich press (1000 watts) which I can cook anything from toasted sandwiches, to steak etc. You might even be able to cook your wedges in there! To give you an idea, to cook a toasted sandwich, it uses less than 10% of my total amp hours. I got an induction cooktop from eBay which is good also for cooking - put a lid on top, will cook faster ;) I can do roast veggies also in the oven, which generally takes an hour, that uses 40% of my 100 amp hours. I've also made cake, boiled water etc in this tiny little 300 watt nostalgia brand pan (Kmart have them too, different name though they look the same - 15 bucks I think?). It's all 100% possible. I use no gas, no diesel - just the power of the sun. I haven't done a setup with the separate components like you have here, but am looking into doing that when I can in the instance I want to run a heater or aircon ever (currently have neither). Happy travels, and thanks for the videos :)
Get cybertruck, plug in the induction cooktop to the outlet in the bed and it's that easy.
i've done some research for a 12v system, using electric cooking is min 2 to 3 batteries, so my system i will be making is going to have 3 lithium batteries at 100ah just to handle the spike draw of the appliances i will be using, and constant draw for the few minutes they will be on.
Took me 6 minutes to realize that you were wearing a dayz shirt, my favourite pc game!
You should look at buying something for the awning to block the wind
Should also get on Somerville metal works and get the insulated and latched door. Helps a heap with heat loss through the travel buddy
thought i let ya know. your running the induction at 1200watt which is 100amps. battery is only rated at a discharge of 100 amps and 125 i think for a peak. keep that in mind. your inverter is rated alot higher than your battery output.
The old cook tops take ages to heat up. You need a good/flat frypan for better contact with the hot plate. You got it at breakfast.
Better quality battery is needed. The lithium battery should be steady at over 12v right up until last 10 percent of capacity. I have 2 100 amp sphere lithium and run 200 amp microwave for 15 minutes without any issues even induction cook top.
The dayz shirt made me happy
hope u guys enjoyed Frazer. we stopped going a few years ago because of the ridicules fire bans. we go to Moreton now n have wonderful camp fires every night.
Reckon that the limiting factor is the output current of your lithium battery, not the capacity. 120Ah is enough. But if it can only provide it at a low rate for example 50amps per hour, and your cooktop is drawing 80 amps per hour (just an example) then your battery voltage will drop and bms in your battery will cut the connection. That is why your coffee machine works fine (lower current) but the induction cooktop doesn’t unless it is at a lower setting.
I had similar experiences running on Jura super automatic coffee machine. The power consumption is 1450W but Kings 1500W inverter beeps like yours although my AGM battery were charged and displayed at least 12V.
Glad I found this episode, Thanks again boys.
And thanking his gf as well!
Very nice video.
I just bought a 50eur 2000w amazon induction cooker.
My setup is 2x 100wp pannels
1x 100 Ah German battery with 113 Ah usable
2000w 230v Chinese inverter
My setup can be Bluetooth monitored so I can check live what power I use
My nespresso uses 1450w for 1 coffee which translates to 5 A draw
I use it to heat water for 1 cup of tea too, I just don't insert any pad.
The cooker is something else. What you read is false. My cooker, when showing 1200w draws 1400; when showing 1600, nearly 1950w and the max power just stops the inverter, which means it's above 2300w. For pasta, there is a "boil water" button and I'll use that. I'll end up drawing 20 - 23 A
I've tried several watt configurations and it doesn't matter if you use 1200 or 1600w, it will boil the same, you'll just end using more power.
I only use solar power. So as long as there is sun for a few hours, you can cook every day at least once.
But, if there is no sun to recharge your battery, you might end up eating sandwiches for a few days :)
What's your max amp draw on your Battery ? 50amp it will cut out, I have a max 200amp draw on my battery and works well, I use induction all the time and 13 volt oven no problem, but my inverter also 1500 will cut on any big pulling items, you need a bigger amp draw on your battery then it will be good 👍
That view is very nice. I like induction cooking .
Wouldn't be a bad idea to make up a wind break for the butane cooker. Can be made out of cardboard but for durability can make it out of 2mm steel and some piano hinge. Inexpensive and effective.
Pat not sure if you read any of my comments eg hoist adjustment, some induction cook tops work on lower settings by pulsing full power, so your induction cook top maybe pulsing 2000 w for 50% of the time so they tell you it’s 1000w. Not all do this so if you have a marginal battery in terms of bms it may not cope. High end induction cooktops apparently don’t “pulse”
Put a clamp meter on your 240 volt and see if it pulses
I'm thinking its the battery quality letting you down, or you have voltage loss through your wiring. My previous setup had a single 100Ah DCS Lithium & 3000w Redarc inverter, I could hammer it with no dramas at all.... ever.
I've since moved that setup into my camper trailer (Kings btw, so can't label me a brand snob haha) with 4x VoltX 100Ah batteries so there's always enough headroom to support the inverter with a larger load, like a toaster & coffee machine running at the same time.
Travel Buddy's certainly need the buck-boost converter. Running them on 14.5-15v makes them perform way better.
Always enjoy your content, keep it up.
As you have probably found out now , it’s not the battery it’s your induction cooker. The induction cooker works like a micro wave. Lower settings just have a fully on time and a fully off time. The inverter is trying to provide this digital on off power requirement so you think that you are getting an analogue turn down of power.
Love your vids i’m Aussie and i own a 80 series land cruiser
Thanks mate!!
What you pay for is what you get. Induction cooking is costly, not all lithium batteries can sustain a huge current draw for a long period. Itech lithium does Peak power output to a peak draw of 270 amps with a sustained output of 175 amps for 5 minutes, and 150 amps continuously. Kings does output up to 160A of peak current for 10 seconds. Do your research before you invest $$$$$$. Loving the new setup. All neat and tidy.
The issue isn't the AH/capacity of the battery it comes down to the quality of the cells within the battery and the bms. The bms will be rated to a particular amperage for continuous discharge I suspect it is 50 A for this battery. A higher end battery and bms pairing would typically allow for 100A continuous discharge without the voltage drop you are dealing with.
Main issue is not a big enough battery
I run 2 x 120amp lithium with 2000w enerdrive invertor
I luv electric but its not cheap to setup, you could buy a lot of gas for what it costs to setup, but elec is so convenient
My biggest issue is the appliance cupboard is taking over the car: pull out slide with twin induction cooktop, pie maker, sandwich maker, coffee pod machine, milk jug heat and froth milk, and forget the travel buddy an 1300w air fryer is light years better imo
One more thing your cast iron pan will work on induction cooktop as will most steel or stainless steel, just aluminium cookware wont work
The biggest issue you are experiencing is a 100AH draw from the battery and as the battery gets flat, the power output reduces. Best move is either a 24v system or a gruntier 12v battery (150AH or 200AH output).
Hey the dubble butane one from Kmart! It’s the best, yes it dubble the size but it’s dubble the cooker and has a full size hot plate bbq that can cook a 24 pack of snags all it once
Another great one mate. Looking forward to the Big trip.
I'd be really keen to see if you swapped for a different 120Ah lithium of a different brand whether you would have the same cut out. Great episode and it is making me think how large a system I will need to build. I want portability so it won't be a permanent installation more solar generator size. Cheers 🍻
I have an allspark lithium 100amp battery. And I have pulled over 100amp successfully using an enerdrive inverter without any severe voltage drop. Might be the cable size contributing to the voltage drop or just the kings equipment/battery not up to the task
Not to do with your inverter setup.
But for the rooftop tent I run a 20Ah power bank sits in one of the pockets, charges my phone 4 times and can run the led strip light. Food for thought, I just didn’t wanna run cables in and around it
either run an 2nd battery in parallel to increase the max cont amp, or upgrade the batter and be sure to look at that spec.
I tried the Kmart induction cooker, returned after first trip. Went with the ikea one and has been great for $59.
Love the travel buddy mod.
Your shunt must be reading wrong as the system is drawing well over 60A
Whats the difference in your experience, what makes the ikea one better? I have two of the kmart ones and love them, i would love to know what makes the ikea one better as i could be in for an upgrage!
I haven't read all the comments but the reason you may be having a problem is some induction cooktops even though they may say you're only set to 1000 watts thay are actually still running at their maximum Watts say 2000 Watts, they are just turn the power on and off with a relay to imitate 1000 watts of heat output.
Im curious about that wiring job you did - splicing the new USB plug into the LED strip. Does the existing wiring and fusing work with the extra load of the USB ports? Also, what connectors did you use? Looked like mebbe electrical tape? I assume so. Just thought I’d ask. P.S. yer vids are awesome. I really appreciate and am able to learn from your speaking/teaching style. Works for me. Very approachable and inviting. Thanks for that. Keep it coming.
Hey, Patrick.
Time for an update? I'm keen to see how the system is running long term.
... and dare I say, looking over, I should say pouring over many vids about solar and induction cooking the battery is they key. If you have a LiFePO4 battery make sure the output is a true figure of the capacity ie; 200Ah can sustain 200Amps continuous output, not a lower figure like 120Amps. This makes a huge difference for the Inverter and the appliances you want to hook up. I've migrated to two 200Ah batteries that can deliver a true 200Amps each so maxing the 1800W induction cook with fridge and travel buddy on, with lights at night seems to be no problem. The solar seem to recover the system with a couple of hours. Expensive? Well it's the end game not a starter nor a system under construction. I could easily hook up the camp trailer and power my house when the bills get too much!
Good to see. I've been following your adventures and thought of similar things (just was deciding on battery and inverter). I have the old kmart butane stove and also got the kmart fry pans which I see you finally got - they work great on the campmaster.
I'm a bit iffy on inverters and induction but I have bought a small breville espresso maker which I hoped to use eventually (was a fan of their dual boiler BES900) but bought a non boiler thermojet/instantaneous espresso machine similar to how all the smaller machines are.
For cooking backup as well as the kmart campmaster butane I also bought a Dometic Lpg baby grill as back up - CBP101. E: Also looking into an evakool DC40 drawer fridge/freezer to mainly use as a freezer. Because of your video I'm now looking into the travel buddy pie warmer too! I guess I'll need more battery capacity after watching this.
All I want to know is if you can run induction cooker of the main car battery and alternator - so you can use it occasionally with engine on..
I would recomend a battery capable of 200A continuous draw for cooking
- The issue you will face is depleting the battery with the high draw cooking and not having sufficient solar to recharge it when you are camped up
- your Kings battery is spec as 100A, yet has issues delivering this (perhaps some further testing here and then talking with Kings.) My understanding is that the battery should not go under voltage whilst delivering 100A continuous untill virtually flat.
I am guessing it’s the discharge capacity of the battery. My lithium iron phosphate battery and bms is rated at 150 amp/h discharge rates. I have 150amp/h capacity battery diy from individual cells and a bms and it’s charged from a 50amp renogy DC/DC charger. It runs a fridge 24\7 without any issues and it’s even sat without the truck running for over a week without any issues. I have an induction cooker I want to incorporate into my setup, just need to get a 2k watt inverter. I have a 100 watt solar panel to go up on the rack but ended up in the hospital with a triple heart bypass so that’s gonna have to wait for a few months.
I'm going to be using my Nuwave flex that goes up to 600 watts and even has a sear function.
I have the exact same induction stove and it keeps on tripping just like yours. It’s good to know what’s causing the problem. BTW I have 2 x 120 lithium batteries and it does the same thing!!
for a moment i thought that guy just came to steal your pan with the omlette in it, but he's cool he just wanted to check out your system
a twin burner gas stove and a small gas bottle will work very well for camp cooking. the cooker would take up as much room as the butane stove and hot plate and the gas bottle can be stored on your rear bar.
Great video mate! Multiple batteries seems like the solution. Dash off road had a video a year or so back running into similar issues. Keep up the good vids
Thanks Joel! really appreciate the support! cheers :)