I watched every part of the series. Very informative on all parts and probably the best series Ive seen to do a great job on explaining everything. I ordered a mold and cant wait to use it and eventually buy more molds. Love the videos.
Thanks Shawn. Have not seen the other modules but will be sure to watch them all. Have watched a lot of videos on resin but have enjoyed yours the most. Thanks again from Australia
Shawn, tremendous eleven part video series; thank you very much for putting this together to help beginners like me! Can’t wait to put this new resin knowledge to use on my first project…going to attempt Cass’ clear resin serving board with shell casings using Carob wood.
Thanks Shawn, a great informative and comprehensive series that I'm sure has led me to a rabbit hole. I'm looking forward to seeing the 12th part in the series that will deal with "Clean Up", as I'm sure I'll have epoxy resin from Monday to Sunday and on all tools in between. Cheers JT
Thank you for making this epoxy resin & wood basics series. I paid over $100 to take a resin poring class at my local wood store and didn' t learn a fraction of what I have learned from viewing this series. After viewing this series and seeing some of the amazing work others have done, I am excited to begin my journey into the exciting possibilities of resin and wood
Greetings from southern Ontario! It is so rare to see good Canadian woodworking content on youtube. I got excited when i saw the "Mastercraft" label on your router table. I love it! Absolutely subscribing!
On the treaded inserts, which length are you using? 15mm or 20mm? By the way I've really enjoyed the series. I ordered a couple molds from the site and hope to get going as soon as they come it. Excellent job on the video series. Thank yoiu!
@@CraftedElements good info. Thanks! I really enjoyed the series. As a retired educator I’ll add that your “classes” were excellently taught. I can’t wait to get started.
When you are using wood with resin, it allows you level both materials to each other and get rid of any warping or uneven parts. Specific to this application, its impossible to make the resin line up at the EXACT same height as the wood, there will always be some difference. The planer takes a fixed amount off the top, eventually making both these surfaces true and level with each other. Sanding is required AFTER planing.
Do you ever use metric units for the resins? I find multiplying or dividing by 10 so much easier than 1.8, 12, 16, or whatever esoteric units are in vogue in the U.S. Thanks.
I would have filled the vold, I am going to change the supplier I have been buying from and I started buying from your company this week (December 2022). If I am happy with you guys I am hoping to do a lot business with you this coming year.
Totally... if I was making something to actually sell I would have filled the void and taken more care. Most of the stuff I make here is for demonstrating our products, and the items themselves usually get sold as wholesale lots, or given away.
I have a project that I want to do, it's a Canadian flag on a piece of 1/2 inch P3 plywood, and finish it with a coat of epoxy, and that's the easy part. What would you recommend for coloring the plywood where it needs to be white? I have some Minwax clear tintable stain that is tinted "Marshmallow" which is a Lowes exclusive color, but it's just not opaque enough for what I want to achieve. I also have the same stain in "Scarlet" which is also a Lowes exclusive, but again, I don't think it's going to be opaque enough. I was thinking about paint, but I don't think paint is going to work well under the epoxy because the epoxy will bond to the paint and not the wood. Do you have any ideas or suggestions??? Thanks in advance!!!
Hi @PaganWizard I appreciate you writing this comment. However, I know the limit of my knowledge and stain is something that I RARELY use. If it were me, I would be doing a Canadian flag in full epoxy, with the help of my CNC machine (laying down a base of red or white, then milling out the opposite color and filling it). That might actually be kind of a cool video now that I think of it.... It would also be my opinion that if you watered down the paint (which I have done before) which left enough of the grain of the plywood up (you know those tiny little fuzzies) that the epoxy would surely bond to that. Keep in mind also that you are doing a complete solid layer of epoxy on top, differences in bonding across the surface isnt going to make a difference when you have a hard cohesive plastic shell.
@@CraftedElements I think I have it figured out. I will make molds to cast the three parts of the flag. All three sections of the flag are identical in measurements. I will then cast two red sections, and one white section, each about 1/4 - 3/8 inch thick. I think this will be the easiest way to avoid color bleeding. After de-molding, trim to final dimensions, then permanently secure the three resin castings to a sheet of plywood, trim and sand as needed. Then comes the hard part, I have to figure out how to make the large maple leaf for the center of the flag, without a CNC.
I watched this entire 11 part series in sequence.. this the BEST recap of everything taught. Thanks!
Woohoo! So glad you found value in it.
Fantastic craftsmanship. You can see why such products are so expensive!
I love the orange you used. I just started using your silicone modes, love them.
I watched every part of the series. Very informative on all parts and probably the best series Ive seen to do a great job on explaining everything. I ordered a mold and cant wait to use it and eventually buy more molds. Love the videos.
Awesome Justin! Glad we could help.
Thanks Shawn. Have not seen the other modules but will be sure to watch them all. Have watched a lot of videos on resin but have enjoyed yours the most. Thanks again from Australia
Thank you so much! Your entire series (yep! Including the sanding 😂) were so informative. I’ll watch them all again and again
Cheers from Australia 🇦🇺
Shawn, tremendous eleven part video series; thank you very much for putting this together to help beginners like me! Can’t wait to put this new resin knowledge to use on my first project…going to attempt Cass’ clear resin serving board with shell casings using Carob wood.
These pieces turned out beautifully!! Awesome start to finish tutorials on these projects!! This series was so helpful and informative!
So glad you can share with your followers and customers!
Thanks Shawn, a great informative and comprehensive series that I'm sure has led me to a rabbit hole. I'm looking forward to seeing the 12th part in the series that will deal with "Clean Up", as I'm sure I'll have epoxy resin from Monday to Sunday and on all tools in between. Cheers JT
Haha! No one wants to watch me cleaning up the shop :-)
Thank you for making this epoxy resin & wood basics series. I paid over $100 to take a resin poring class at my local wood store and didn' t learn a fraction of what I have learned from viewing this series. After viewing this series and seeing some of the amazing work others have done, I am excited to begin my journey into the exciting possibilities of resin and wood
Awesome! Thanks for saying that Ray.
Greetings from southern Ontario! It is so rare to see good Canadian woodworking content on youtube. I got excited when i saw the "Mastercraft" label on your router table. I love it! Absolutely subscribing!
Ha! Good old Crappy Tire. Love it!
great job on video series. loved your star war table
Thanks so much Clem!
great recap. when sanding the charcuterie boards do you send the epoxy resin the same as the wood? I eep ending up with every light swirl marks in it
amazing effort. really appreciate.
Thanks so much for that! We try!
On the treaded inserts, which length are you using? 15mm or 20mm? By the way I've really enjoyed the series. I ordered a couple molds from the site and hope to get going as soon as they come it. Excellent job on the video series. Thank yoiu!
Assuming your table is thick enough you will want the longer, 20mm lengths. You can certainly use the 15mm lengths for thinner pieces.
@@CraftedElements good info. Thanks! I really enjoyed the series. As a retired educator I’ll add that your “classes” were excellently taught.
I can’t wait to get started.
I love the Starwars table ...... how do I get my hands on this lol
What is the purpose of having a wood planer? Does it smoothen the wood or sand the wood?
When you are using wood with resin, it allows you level both materials to each other and get rid of any warping or uneven parts. Specific to this application, its impossible to make the resin line up at the EXACT same height as the wood, there will always be some difference. The planer takes a fixed amount off the top, eventually making both these surfaces true and level with each other. Sanding is required AFTER planing.
Do you ever use metric units for the resins? I find multiplying or dividing by 10 so much easier than 1.8, 12, 16, or whatever esoteric units are in vogue in the U.S. Thanks.
That logic tracks! Nice suggestion.
Hey, can you still pour epoxy resin at 67 68 degrees F, ?
One youtuber recommended wetting the wood to raise the grain, let dry over, and sand. then oil to finish. Is this really necessary?
I would have filled the vold, I am going to change the supplier I have been buying from and I started buying from your company this week (December 2022). If I am happy with you guys I am hoping to do a lot business with you this coming year.
Totally... if I was making something to actually sell I would have filled the void and taken more care. Most of the stuff I make here is for demonstrating our products, and the items themselves usually get sold as wholesale lots, or given away.
Bonjour, when you sand the table do you stop at grit 120 or 220? my level of English makes me doubt !! THANKS
120grit if you are going to top coat with resin
@@CraftedElements Ok merci 🙏
Wow this guy could talk the ears off an elephant!!
Yep nice vid 👍
I have a project that I want to do, it's a Canadian flag on a piece of 1/2 inch P3 plywood, and finish it with a coat of epoxy, and that's the easy part. What would you recommend for coloring the plywood where it needs to be white? I have some Minwax clear tintable stain that is tinted "Marshmallow" which is a Lowes exclusive color, but it's just not opaque enough for what I want to achieve. I also have the same stain in "Scarlet" which is also a Lowes exclusive, but again, I don't think it's going to be opaque enough. I was thinking about paint, but I don't think paint is going to work well under the epoxy because the epoxy will bond to the paint and not the wood. Do you have any ideas or suggestions??? Thanks in advance!!!
Hi @PaganWizard I appreciate you writing this comment. However, I know the limit of my knowledge and stain is something that I RARELY use. If it were me, I would be doing a Canadian flag in full epoxy, with the help of my CNC machine (laying down a base of red or white, then milling out the opposite color and filling it). That might actually be kind of a cool video now that I think of it.... It would also be my opinion that if you watered down the paint (which I have done before) which left enough of the grain of the plywood up (you know those tiny little fuzzies) that the epoxy would surely bond to that. Keep in mind also that you are doing a complete solid layer of epoxy on top, differences in bonding across the surface isnt going to make a difference when you have a hard cohesive plastic shell.
@@CraftedElements I think I have it figured out. I will make molds to cast the three parts of the flag. All three sections of the flag are identical in measurements. I will then cast two red sections, and one white section, each about 1/4 - 3/8 inch thick. I think this will be the easiest way to avoid color bleeding. After de-molding, trim to final dimensions, then permanently secure the three resin castings to a sheet of plywood, trim and sand as needed. Then comes the hard part, I have to figure out how to make the large maple leaf for the center of the flag, without a CNC.
@@PaganWizard This sounds like a great, and very creative solution to achieving this. I hope it goes well for you.
What did you say your work table was made out of? I have to lay plastic everywhere when I resin.
HDPE (HMWPE or UHMWPE will also be fine)
did u let the first coat of clear resin dry first ?
Yes?
Note to self, if making a table, think about where the legs will need to go when making the design!