Hi Michael, very informative. I have a Pentair Master Temp 400 & it won't hold the heat. The heat keeps cycling approximately every 2 minutes (it heats up every 2 minutes or so) & then the "service" light comes on, then "Heat" blinks calling for heat, and then steady "Heat" light for approx. 2 minutes. Sometimes I hear a sound coming from the manifold before it cycles. There are no error codes in front of the panel and/or error lights at the back of the panel. I checked the "Thermal Regulator" & it looks fine. My pool guy came & he was able to get it working he said it's just the water's ph. I don't know what he meant because I always check/maintain the water quality of my pool. I even clean the filters. anyway, it work 3x I used it & now it's back to the same problem. I called them & they are planning to replace the igniter & thermal sensor (thermostat). I'm planning to do it myself. I wonder, if you have instructions or video in replacing the igniter. I would appreciate any advise & your help. Thank you.
I have a mastertemp 250 as well. Just purchased from a previous owner. Its less than a year old. Heater Ignites and then shuts off after about 10-15 seconds. I switched the heater from Natural gas to Propane. I changed the Orifice and replaced with propane. Bought a regulator for propane. Any ideas what it could be? I have replaced the high limit switch and no luck.
That unit has a gas pressure switch, check and see if it opens, the high limit switch is when the water get too hot, if it’s getting gas and the igniter is good, did you check the igniter?it’s done by ohms should be higher then 20 ohms. If all else fails check the ignition control module, are you getting any error codes?
Great video- I got the same exact issue I replaced the icm and Igniter still same thing, red light flashing 3 time which other parts you recommend to replace? Thank you
Omri Zecharia There is a high limit switch and a low limit switch try to short the two of them together not the high and the low switch pick one or the other to start with you can jumper out the high switch and try it and then jump out the low switch and try it each time you do something you have to reset the power supply the next area I would look towards would be the gas side make sure that your gas pressure switch is in operating make sure that the gas valve is working all of those can be done by jumping them out. I hope that helps if you have anymore questions please feel free to ask.
@@1030daman thank you so much for the quick feedback, I just noticed this morning r-13 code on the heater, I cant figure it out, also when you saying "reset" it's just to disconnect the unit from power for minute or so right? Thank you again
So I have a story for you, boss! MasterTemp400 purchased and installed by yours truly in Dec of 2014 for service client, no maintenance, yet. Ran great for half of first season then displayed 126deg. Starting with cheapest part first: thermistor, nothing; PCB control board, fixed. Ran for one full season then random on/off cycles inside set point without lock out, checked thermal regulator, opened in boiling water, good. Jumped HLS, same issue. Checked board, J8 pin block had corrosion bridging two pins. Heater is not sheltered but there isn't an abnormal amount of water present (guttered roof and under eve). Cleaned pin block, nothing. Replaced board, again, fixed. Second season: cycling on/off again without lock out (heater is plumbed with a by-pass so during height of summer, no water is passing through heater and it is completely drained). Thermal regulator stuck closed, replaced. Water chemistry could have been off since I just took over the maintenance of this pool, salt pool so 7.8pH+ util I came along. A week later and the heater fails to fire more often that it fires; checked ignitor, 90 Ohms, replaced ignitor anyway. Situation worsens with the heater failing to fire 9 out 10. Checked gas pressure at 7"wc static with over a 5.5"wc drop static with CSST flex line in betwixt the meter and lbs to inches regulator (ok for 2lbs but not for anything less). Before installing the heater, I had the homeowner get his gas provider to install a 2lbs system with a million BTU meter. I didn't notice the white meter face (versus red for 2lbs) during the heater install. The gas pressure from the meter was at 0.25lbs. I had them upgrade to 2lbs. Now, the heater fires more often then not, 8 out 10 times. I let it ride. Then two days later I get a text: "Pool is cold." The heater is now heating to set point with no problems and then locks out during the first maintenance cycle. I check the Fenwal ICM, get 5.0VDC at the FC terminals (better than good fire sensing rectification). I replace the HLS, the thermistor again, the stack flue sensor, and the PCB controller (pentair sent me a new one). Doesn't matter what the set point is 68 or 90; I get 8 out 10 fires at ambient temp and then lockout after set point is reached, every time. I checked the orifice for giggles. So the only thing I haven't replaced is the AGS, the fenwal, and the stuff in the combustion chamber. Oh, yeah and this heater has all the extra ground points factory installed (you know the flame holder ground). No flow issues: Intelliflo @ 3000ripums with 600lb Triton @ 17psi. Flow meter registers ~65gpm after the heater (cheap, residential flow meters are notoriously off by sometimes more than 10% so....). I'm ready to just warranty out the entire heater at this point! Whatcha think? New fenwal? Check burner? Too much air in the fuel mix?
My ohm resistance reading is 77 on the ignition coil. I can’t smell gas I have no fault codes. Gas line is on. Service light comes on and all the buttons stops working. I never hear the igniter Click. It used to click.
I have this same issue with my mastertemp control unit flashing ignition lockout but there are no errors. It is firing but not heating. I replaced the orifice to convert from propane to natural gas. Also replaced the igniter and ignition box and high limit switch like you did. Still no heat. It clocks and tries to start and I smell gas. Any ideas?
@@ChristopherTurekSr-l9q is your ignition control, module blinking any blanks? Also, you can check your flow switch for proper flow. If there’s not enough flow to the system it will not engage the manifold sensor or you can jump that one out by just shorting the two of them together, I would recommend power cycling every time you do something, also you can check your thermal switch.
Yes the ignition control module is blinking 3 times- ignition lockout. Gas pressure was checked last night and it’s at a 7 Pentair said it had to be between 4-14 so that’s good.
I used the orifice from my gas 250 model in my 300 model. Pentair said it has to be an orifice for the 300 so I ordered and hoping that takes care of it.
Same problem. Mine starts up and goes through purge but does not ignite. I’m getting red LED flash on ICM. Replaced ICM and still got red flashed on new ICM.
Is it possible that the ICM can go bad after just 6 hours of use? I have a Pentair 125 and it fired right up, heated water up to temp, shut itself off, and then on the next call for heat it went through the ignition sequence and I now have an ignition lockout code on the ICM. I am getting 59.9 ohms on the igniter. Any ideas as to what to check for? It is brand new and I don’t imagine that the ICM is bad
If the ICM checks out and the igniter checks out I would check for the gas operation next the ICM does a check of pressure meaning water pressure in the system from the pressure switch if it doesn’t ignite, it check gas before igniting if you have pressure and pressure switch is good I would check and make sure the fan on the gas side is coming on and that your gas valve/solenoid is operating correctly if the unit calls for ignition and gas valve does not open it will throw an ignition lockout as well hope that helps.
I have a problem with pentair master temp 250 smell gas and don’t ignite we replaced the igniter it was blow and started heating after a day the igniter blows again. Any suggestions? Thank you.
Have you checked the ohms coming from the ICM going to the igniter and/or have you replace the ICM and when you installed the igniter did you touch the elements with your hand if so that can cause the breakdown of the igniter but something to happen that quick could be an ICM or check wiring going to ICM for any shorts.
The igniter is done by ohms each igniter has a specific ohms reading that you are supposed to get if it is below that ohms reading it is bad . Look up your igniter and see what the ohms reading should be. If it is below the manufacturers standards , then it is bad.
Got a brand new pool installed my Painter heater 250 ran for one day I am having the same problem as your video the heater light keeps flashing and then it goes into service mode
If you just had the heater installed I would check the gas pressure and gas pressure switch if those check out then I would move on to the flow switch you have to set the flow switch on new installs if they are not set correctly you can run into this problem as well hope this helps thanks.
If I’ve replace all of those same sensors with OE parts note I’d didn’t run at all ,now it runs for about 15 min and goes out for 30 sec and comes back on over and over and I’m still getting an R13. code? Help what am I missing
Hey Jim, it sounds like you were having a intermittent electrical problem if you have replaced all with OEM parts and the unit runs perfectly fine for 15 minutes and shuts off and comes back on I would check for any loose wires any chewed wires also I would check and make sure the flow from the pump/filter is adequate if the flow switch does not detect adequate amount of flow it will shut the unit down also check for any debris that is dropped inside of the sand overtime,If carbon builds up in the exhaust fan it will shut the unit off as well however for my experience the problem you were explaining to me sounds like it could potentially be an electrical short or intermittent connection.
The MasterTemp stack flue snsor trips when exhaust temps reach more than 350 degrees. This is usauly caused by a flow issue or a bad thermal regulator causing the water to remain in the exchanger and over heat. I hope that helps if not I would lean more towards the ICM if you’ve never had a problem with any of the gas valves or combustion before they recommend changing out the ICM every 3 to 5 years.
@aquaboss Dude , I been doing this for 20 years , and master temp heater boards , touch pad membrane are crap! And everything else with this heater , this heater makes you a professional parts changer because it will throw a stack flue sensor code and it’s actually the mother board. I used to love this heater because of its size and easy to install on your own , but now it’s like pentair has gone so cheap with their parts ! They don’t last at all ! So it’s not your water chemistry its cheap as parts they used at the factory ! Your just one of those guys who thinks they know it all just because your a pentair tech!! Your salt cells suck , your back wash valves suck! Your actuators suck ! Only good thing you have is pumps now a days.
Actually the pumps are total crap too. The Intelliflos are way overpriced and will last you maybe 5yrs. Pentair is nice looking but below average equipment.
Master temp is the easiest of all the brands heaters to deal with. I do this daily. If you know where to look an the steps to check. It very much throws codes an lights directing you to the problem. 9/10 every heater issue is a 3 minute to an 30 minute fix. Open up replace what's needed an close it up an go. The only thing takes an little over an hour is completely replacing the exchanger. Other than that it's Childs play. An 9-10 times all the problems are water chemistry related. From people not taking care of their shit. Which I do not know why they don't. It's so simple. Because if I ever get a call for any heater that's the first thing I do is test they are water. Because if it's anything to do with water chemistry it don't matter if it's a week old and still under its three-year warranty Pentair will not cover damage due to water chemistry. I know because I'm their certified tech. So if someone's heater is out and they are water is screwed up, i'm not writing it off to Pentair they can just pay me for the part and the service call to take care of it since they didn't take care of their water
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Thank you for walking it through explaining in detail. Much appreciated Great Job!
Thanks for the video, I was looking for the ICM and you showed me exactly where it was.
Hi Michael, very informative. I have a Pentair Master Temp 400 & it won't hold the heat. The heat keeps cycling approximately every 2 minutes (it heats up every 2 minutes or so) & then the "service" light comes on, then "Heat" blinks calling for heat, and then steady "Heat" light for approx. 2 minutes. Sometimes I hear a sound coming from the manifold before it cycles. There are no error codes in front of the panel and/or error lights at the back of the panel. I checked the "Thermal Regulator" & it looks fine. My pool guy came & he was able to get it working he said it's just the water's ph. I don't know what he meant because I always check/maintain the water quality of my pool. I even clean the filters. anyway, it work 3x I used it & now it's back to the same problem. I called them & they are planning to replace the igniter & thermal sensor (thermostat). I'm planning to do it myself. I wonder, if you have instructions or video in replacing the igniter. I would appreciate any advise & your help. Thank you.
What a leach you are.
I have a mastertemp 250 as well. Just purchased from a previous owner. Its less than a year old. Heater Ignites and then shuts off after about 10-15 seconds. I switched the heater from Natural gas to Propane. I changed the Orifice and replaced with propane. Bought a regulator for propane. Any ideas what it could be? I have replaced the high limit switch and no luck.
That unit has a gas pressure switch, check and see if it opens, the high limit switch is when the water get too hot, if it’s getting gas and the igniter is good, did you check the igniter?it’s done by ohms should be higher then 20 ohms. If all else fails check the ignition control module, are you getting any error codes?
dude thank you so much for this video. You are an absolute life saver! I am replacing this unit soon.
Great video- I got the same exact issue I replaced the icm and Igniter still same thing, red light flashing 3 time which other parts you recommend to replace?
Thank you
Omri Zecharia There is a high limit switch and a low limit switch try to short the two of them together not the high and the low switch pick one or the other to start with you can jumper out the high switch and try it and then jump out the low switch and try it each time you do something you have to reset the power supply the next area I would look towards would be the gas side make sure that your gas pressure switch is in operating make sure that the gas valve is working all of those can be done by jumping them out. I hope that helps if you have anymore questions please feel free to ask.
@@1030daman thank you so much for the quick feedback, I just noticed this morning r-13 code on the heater, I cant figure it out, also when you saying "reset" it's just to disconnect the unit from power for minute or so right?
Thank you again
Omri Zecharia yes sir. 🤙🏻
@@1030daman 🙏
@@Zachnsm1234 R13 is the revision of the software on the control module, it is not an error code by any means.
So I have a story for you, boss! MasterTemp400 purchased and installed by yours truly in Dec of 2014 for service client, no maintenance, yet. Ran great for half of first season then displayed 126deg. Starting with cheapest part first: thermistor, nothing; PCB control board, fixed. Ran for one full season then random on/off cycles inside set point without lock out, checked thermal regulator, opened in boiling water, good. Jumped HLS, same issue. Checked board, J8 pin block had corrosion bridging two pins. Heater is not sheltered but there isn't an abnormal amount of water present (guttered roof and under eve). Cleaned pin block, nothing. Replaced board, again, fixed. Second season: cycling on/off again without lock out (heater is plumbed with a by-pass so during height of summer, no water is passing through heater and it is completely drained). Thermal regulator stuck closed, replaced. Water chemistry could have been off since I just took over the maintenance of this pool, salt pool so 7.8pH+ util I came along. A week later and the heater fails to fire more often that it fires; checked ignitor, 90 Ohms, replaced ignitor anyway. Situation worsens with the heater failing to fire 9 out 10. Checked gas pressure at 7"wc static with over a 5.5"wc drop static with CSST flex line in betwixt the meter and lbs to inches regulator (ok for 2lbs but not for anything less). Before installing the heater, I had the homeowner get his gas provider to install a 2lbs system with a million BTU meter. I didn't notice the white meter face (versus red for 2lbs) during the heater install. The gas pressure from the meter was at 0.25lbs. I had them upgrade to 2lbs. Now, the heater fires more often then not, 8 out 10 times. I let it ride. Then two days later I get a text: "Pool is cold." The heater is now heating to set point with no problems and then locks out during the first maintenance cycle. I check the Fenwal ICM, get 5.0VDC at the FC terminals (better than good fire sensing rectification). I replace the HLS, the thermistor again, the stack flue sensor, and the PCB controller (pentair sent me a new one). Doesn't matter what the set point is 68 or 90; I get 8 out 10 fires at ambient temp and then lockout after set point is reached, every time. I checked the orifice for giggles. So the only thing I haven't replaced is the AGS, the fenwal, and the stuff in the combustion chamber. Oh, yeah and this heater has all the extra ground points factory installed (you know the flame holder ground). No flow issues: Intelliflo @ 3000ripums with 600lb Triton @ 17psi. Flow meter registers ~65gpm after the heater (cheap, residential flow meters are notoriously off by sometimes more than 10% so....). I'm ready to just warranty out the entire heater at this point! Whatcha think? New fenwal? Check burner? Too much air in the fuel mix?
thank you...great video for my maintenance staff and me !
My ohm resistance reading is 77 on the ignition coil.
I can’t smell gas
I have no fault codes.
Gas line is on.
Service light comes on and all the buttons stops working.
I never hear the igniter Click.
It used to click.
I like your video to explain everything really well....
nice video. what's the best way to test the ignition module if it's bad?
I saw on amazon that it appears the ICM circuit board can short to ground near the terminals for the ignitor. You can take it apart and look.
I have this same issue with my mastertemp control unit flashing ignition lockout but there are no errors. It is firing but not heating. I replaced the orifice to convert from propane to natural gas. Also replaced the igniter and ignition box and high limit switch like you did. Still no heat. It clocks and tries to start and I smell gas. Any ideas?
@@ChristopherTurekSr-l9q is your ignition control, module blinking any blanks? Also, you can check your flow switch for proper flow. If there’s not enough flow to the system it will not engage the manifold sensor or you can jump that one out by just shorting the two of them together, I would recommend power cycling every time you do something, also you can check your thermal switch.
Yes the ignition control module is blinking 3 times- ignition lockout. Gas pressure was checked last night and it’s at a 7 Pentair said it had to be between 4-14 so that’s good.
I used the orifice from my gas 250 model in my 300 model. Pentair said it has to be an orifice for the 300 so I ordered and hoping that takes care of it.
Same problem. Mine starts up and goes through purge but does not ignite. I’m getting red LED flash on ICM. Replaced ICM and still got red flashed on new ICM.
Great job so helpful
Is it possible that the ICM can go bad after just 6 hours of use? I have a Pentair 125 and it fired right up, heated water up to temp, shut itself off, and then on the next call for heat it went through the ignition sequence and I now have an ignition lockout code on the ICM. I am getting 59.9 ohms on the igniter. Any ideas as to what to check for? It is brand new and I don’t imagine that the ICM is bad
If the ICM checks out and the igniter checks out I would check for the gas operation next the ICM does a check of pressure meaning water pressure in the system from the pressure switch if it doesn’t ignite, it check gas before igniting if you have pressure and pressure switch is good I would check and make sure the fan on the gas side is coming on and that your gas valve/solenoid is operating correctly if the unit calls for ignition and gas valve does not open it will throw an ignition lockout as well hope that helps.
How would I check the ICM to see if it is still good?
I have a problem with pentair master temp 250 smell gas and don’t ignite we replaced the igniter it was blow and started heating after a day the igniter blows again. Any suggestions? Thank you.
Have you checked the ohms coming from the ICM going to the igniter and/or have you replace the ICM and when you installed the igniter did you touch the elements with your hand if so that can cause the breakdown of the igniter but something to happen that quick could be an ICM or check wiring going to ICM for any shorts.
Great video, I only wish you showed how you tested the igniter.
The igniter is done by ohms each igniter has a specific ohms reading that you are supposed to get if it is below that ohms reading it is bad . Look up your igniter and see what the ohms reading should be. If it is below the manufacturers standards , then it is bad.
Hi i have a mastertemp 250 afs light on . But the blower is not working you think could be de ignition module i changed all sensors still not blowing
It could be the ICM or I would resistance on the fan motor and make sure that is operating.
Got a brand new pool installed my Painter heater 250
ran for one day I am having the same problem as your video the heater light keeps flashing and then it goes into service mode
If you just had the heater installed I would check the gas pressure and gas pressure switch if those check out then I would move on to the flow switch you have to set the flow switch on new installs if they are not set correctly you can run into this problem as well hope this helps thanks.
If I’ve replace all of those same sensors with OE parts note I’d didn’t run at all ,now it runs for about 15 min and goes out for 30 sec and comes back on over and over and I’m still getting an R13. code? Help what am I missing
Hey Jim, it sounds like you were having a intermittent electrical problem if you have replaced all with OEM parts and the unit runs perfectly fine for 15 minutes and shuts off and comes back on I would check for any loose wires any chewed wires also I would check and make sure the flow from the pump/filter is adequate if the flow switch does not detect adequate amount of flow it will shut the unit down also check for any debris that is dropped inside of the sand overtime,If carbon builds up in the exhaust fan it will shut the unit off as well however for my experience the problem you were explaining to me sounds like it could potentially be an electrical short or intermittent connection.
Super helpful. Thanks for making this.
Whats a E06 error on the 250 master temp
One of this parts can fail even if need just installed ? I just install one and it's showing me ignite lockout and it don't ignite?
hola tengo un calentador penthays y quiero que la marque grados centigrados y quiero saber como se le hace un mantenimiento a el calentador penthays
How much did you charge customer?
Herbert Perez $250
How do you charge for pool heater repairs? Thank you
Herbert Perez I charge $55 a hour + part’s hope that helps. 👍🏻
You should be at $125. That's what every pool tech and myself charge.
Thanks fir the video.
Hey I have a pentair 400 heater and gave error code e05 ?
The MasterTemp stack flue snsor trips when exhaust temps reach more than 350 degrees. This is usauly caused by a flow issue or a bad thermal regulator causing the water to remain in the exchanger and over heat. I hope that helps if not I would lean more towards the ICM if you’ve never had a problem with any of the gas valves or combustion before they recommend changing out the ICM every 3 to 5 years.
I have the same problem ,I replace the icm and hi limit sensor and still have the same problem
Marcos De sousa check the flow switch.
I had a similar problem, But it turned out to be spider web clogging the burners
How do you check the burner?
@aquaboss
Dude , I been doing this for 20 years , and master temp heater boards , touch pad membrane are crap! And everything else with this heater , this heater makes you a professional parts changer because it will throw a stack flue sensor code and it’s actually the mother board. I used to love this heater because of its size and easy to install on your own , but now it’s like pentair has gone so cheap with their parts ! They don’t last at all ! So it’s not your water chemistry its cheap as parts they used at the factory ! Your just one of those guys who thinks they know it all just because your a pentair tech!! Your salt cells suck , your back wash valves suck! Your actuators suck ! Only good thing you have is pumps now a days.
Actually the pumps are total crap too. The Intelliflos are way overpriced and will last you maybe 5yrs. Pentair is nice looking but below average equipment.
We get e05
Master temp is the easiest of all the brands heaters to deal with. I do this daily. If you know where to look an the steps to check. It very much throws codes an lights directing you to the problem. 9/10 every heater issue is a 3 minute to an 30 minute fix. Open up replace what's needed an close it up an go. The only thing takes an little over an hour is completely replacing the exchanger. Other than that it's Childs play. An 9-10 times all the problems are water chemistry related. From people not taking care of their shit. Which I do not know why they don't. It's so simple. Because if I ever get a call for any heater that's the first thing I do is test they are water. Because if it's anything to do with water chemistry it don't matter if it's a week old and still under its three-year warranty Pentair will not cover damage due to water chemistry. I know because I'm their certified tech. So if someone's heater is out and they are water is screwed up, i'm not writing it off to Pentair they can just pay me for the part and the service call to take care of it since they didn't take care of their water