This video is about a well known symptom of TD5 Landrover defender 110 or 90 with a wining fuel pump. It explains the fuel system and what can go wrong....
Excellent and very informative video D3S, thank you. My pump is new (about 15k kms installed by the previous owner) and whines as of late (I had had this td5 defender for a year now). Not long ago the fuel tank was run empty and is still only in 1/4 full so I suspect dirty/sludge filters on either the pump or the first filter. I will check the first filter first. The state of that one will give me a good indication of whether I need to pull the pump or not. Thankfully this 110 has a "hatch"" so I can check the state first, before taking the tank out for a cleanup. I was also told that the plastic fuel tanks have a real tendancy of releasing a black (as could be seen in your video) residue, that clogs filters badly. Lastly, for as long as I have known this TD5 (also owned by the previous person),, it swings loooong before it takes when starting. Once it goes, it goes like stink without cutting out for any reason whatsoever. Suggestions?
After watching your video I have a suspicion that the fuel channel inside the head has a leak somewhere, could that be? As far as I know, everything else has beeen "fixed"and replaced.
A wining fuel pump can be a sign the injectors washers needs replacing. If after removing the fuel pump there's a slimy emulsified substance near the mesh filter at the bottom of the pump that's usually a good indicator the injectors washers are kaput, the good news is the washers and rubber seal repair kit isn't expensive but there's a bit of stripping to get to them.
- The wining sound is often an indicator that there is air in the system. Likely a leak by one of the two valves on top of the Filter housing and not actually a bad pump, don't fix it and you will soon have one though. - When ever you change an item, bleed the system by turning the key to position 2, and stepping on the gas pedal 5 times.. it will purge for a few minutes.
treat the half tank mark as if it is the empty mark....the fuel in the tank keeps the pump cool and you don,t want to be sucking in dirt from the bottom of the tank by running low.
Hi All Please note I had problems with my defender 90 2.5 TDI engine losing power and cutting off. Found the fuel injectors washers and O ring defected. Replaced and the Landy running good. I hope this helps Landy owners with same problems. Thanks
Thank you for the very informative video. In my case, I've installed a new AMC cylinder head and all new injectors and new LR copper washers and seals and still have diesel fuel in the oil ( sump level raising). From your video it seems that I should replace the seals again, but as mentioned, they are all brand new! Its a real mystery!! Ant thoughts?
It's spelt "whining" my good fellows. The root word is whine (hwīn, wīn). I have heard that the English language is made from words that it gathers, by chasing them down small laneways and clubbing them to death.
I lived in UK and now living in Ireland for last 7 years and most of the English native speakers have no clue how to spell or write correctly in their own mother language. So give the man a thumbs up for the informative video he made :)
My 2002 td5 110 died on me whilst driving down the highway. She idles fine but struggles to start only when cold. The pump is making a wining noise but has been since i bought her. She would loose power but not often at all. When she does start I get a cloud of white smoke out the exhaust, probably from excess diesel not burning. Anyway cutting out on the highway I got her started again after about 20 min. Made it about 5km to the farm and she died again, had to tow her home. The following day she started again but might be because she was at an angle. The fuel was at about a quarter tank during all this. Let her idle for another 20 min and seemed fine so I parked her on a level parking surface. The following day she was dead again... So ill fill her up with diesel and see if my suspicion is true that there is an air leak in the tank.
So.. The local landy expert was dead certain that it was the fuel pump... Replaced it to find she is still cutting out and pump is still whining... Now the verdict is injectors are not working properly and the smoke is caused by oil seaping into the cylinder due to bad oil rings.. Looks like im in for new injectors and oil rings.
Mat that is also possible but the fuelpump noise is typical air and has little to see with the injectors oilrings. So, i doubts if replacing the oilseal rings is going to help.
They think it is the piston oil seals. They are going to try other injectors from another td5 and see if it makes a difference. Im not sure what to think of it as costs are going through the roof. It is not cheap living in South Africa. Thank you for the reply!
Kostas Evia thanks for the comments, that might very well be the case. It will manifest itself especially after a long period of parking time. Than it will be hard to start and the pump will make a lot of noise. Also, while driving under conditions that demand a lot fuel the pump will suffer and engine might lose power or even stall due to fuel starbation
Fine video. I have a problem with my defender td5 which recently overheated badly. The coolant leaks have been repaired. However, the engine will start and run for about half a mile and then cuts out completely. The fuel pump was replace recently but is now extremely noisy. It has been suggested that the injector washers should be replaced. Would you agree that this could be my problem?
That is hard to say, after an over heating problem many things can go wrong. The first thing I would do is to read out the ECU fault codes. NANO COM is a great tool and affordable to do so... You may just have a duff sensor, or a real problem/// for instance if the intake manifold pressure is over the limit (upper) and your turbo waste gate is not working then the ECU will cut out the fuel to the injectors. This could simple be a MAP sensor problem...(manifold absolute pressure sensor) given you a false reading. The injector washer should not cause the engine to stall, it might make it run rough. I rather think that the ECU is cutting the fuel due to an over limit sensor situation... try first reading the fault codes, and after that take a real time reading while driving of the ECU and plot it.... you might see what is running up.... I still think that the MAP or engine temp sensor plays part.
Hi There, great videos and thanks to all the ones sharing knowledge. I have a 110 TD5 with a wining pump (been winning for many years though without problem). I think I have an air leak in my system. After 5 km, the engine cuts off an I have to prime the system (key on and 5 times pressing the gas pedal). If I do that the engine will start, but after approx 5 km it will stall again - and won't start without doing another priming sequence. Do you think it maybe one of the 2 valves from the fuel filter housing? Thanks!
I would not be surprised if that was the issue, try to fill the tank for 100% and see than.... In almost all cases the winning noise is the result of air in the circuit.... Have you read the error codes of the ECU and temp readings ? Try that as well , as it will give you an indication why the engine stalls.... It may just be the ECU that cuts out because of an out of range sensor reading.... But most likely its and airleak at those valves or some tubes
how can I tell if the bleeding valves are not operating correctly ? my engine can cut out anywhere and can struggle to restart I have this problem with some time now its getting worse I suspect air in the system but even after bleeding it it might go for a day abd then struggle to start or just cut out on the road .
Hi, Well that could be your fuel pump, does it make a sound ?. And does it also happen with a full fuel tank ? If its OK with a full fuel tank than I would suspect the fuel-pump. There is also a small valve on the fuel filter inside the tubing on the fuel-filter housing ( on the chassis side rear). That can be wrong , you can see that in my video. The other possibility is a faulty fuel pressure regulator, you could measure the pressure on the pressure side and return...all that is in one of the video's on how the fuel system works... have a look
@@D3Sshooter thanks for replying yes it happens with a full tank actually seems to happen more with the tank full ,yes it makes a wineing sound when you first turn on the ignition and can often continue for some time also what is strange is often if I enter a roundabout to fast and I get some body roll it can often cuts the feul off and if I continue to press the gas pedal it will resume again. its my first defender so im not familiar with them thanks.
The wineing sound is an indication of a bad fuel pump, or worn one. Certainly on a full tank. It sounds like you have air going into the system, with air pockets that move when the vehicle rolls. My first check would be the fuel filter, and the associated venting valve on the top of the return feed ... have a look on the video, I show the location in that. Also check that all houses are air tied on the connectors. If possible check the fuel pressure and when all that is good I would consider changing the fuel pump. That is a hard job as you need to remove the fuel tank to get access and the pump is not that cheap. Another possibility is that you have water or lots of sludge in the fuel tank.
@@D3Sshooter I appreciate that you took the time out to reply with a detailed list of possible cause I be sure to check all the above and try find the problem I will let you know if these will solve the problem and thanks again and hello from ireland im a subscriber to your channel .
Thank you for your recent reply. I live in the West of Ireland and do not have access to analytical testing. I have fitted a new battery and can now start the engine without any problems. No white or black smoke from the exhaust. The engine will run for 22 mins on tick over and then cuts out! Do you have any suggestions of what might be the fault? Having watched your videos, which are marvellous, I am beginning to think that it might be a fuel temperature cut off issue. I'm basing my thoughts on the fact that the engine running for 22 mins will allow heat to build up to a certain temperature when some form of designed or faulty component cuts in to stop any pending damage. Have you any further thoughts? Many thanks in anticipation of your kind help.
That is very well possible as the ECU has its over and under ratings whereby it will cut the fuel. The only way to check is to have a read out of the ECU.. Try to find an enthusiast who might have a NANOCOM. Note that this is a fairly cheap device that works very well..... The normal working temperatures are : Engine = +/- 85 degrees centigrade, Fuel temperature =+/-61,5 at about 20 degrees ambient .... you could try to measure those with a infrared temperature meter.... or even better a read out of the ECU..
Hi - I'm in West ROI too - with the same fuel related problem. Its a 2006 110 Td5.... fancy meeting over a beer to discuss? I also have a NANOCOM reader......
Best Video I've seen on the TD5 Fuel System!
Excellent and very informative video D3S, thank you. My pump is new (about 15k kms installed by the previous owner) and whines as of late (I had had this td5 defender for a year now). Not long ago the fuel tank was run empty and is still only in 1/4 full so I suspect dirty/sludge filters on either the pump or the first filter. I will check the first filter first. The state of that one will give me a good indication of whether I need to pull the pump or not. Thankfully this 110 has a "hatch"" so I can check the state first, before taking the tank out for a cleanup. I was also told that the plastic fuel tanks have a real tendancy of releasing a black (as could be seen in your video) residue, that clogs filters badly. Lastly, for as long as I have known this TD5 (also owned by the previous person),, it swings loooong before it takes when starting. Once it goes, it goes like stink without cutting out for any reason whatsoever. Suggestions?
After watching your video I have a suspicion that the fuel channel inside the head has a leak somewhere, could that be? As far as I know, everything else has beeen "fixed"and replaced.
A wining fuel pump can be a sign the injectors washers needs replacing. If after removing the fuel pump there's a slimy emulsified substance near the mesh filter at the bottom of the pump that's usually a good indicator the injectors washers are kaput, the good news is the washers and rubber seal repair kit isn't expensive but there's a bit of stripping to get to them.
Great tip .... Thanks
- The wining sound is often an indicator that there is air in the system. Likely a leak by one of the two valves on top of the Filter housing and not actually a bad pump, don't fix it and you will soon have one though.
- When ever you change an item, bleed the system by turning the key to position 2, and stepping on the gas pedal 5 times.. it will purge for a few minutes.
TXS and indeed.
Jeff Davies 8
any idea how to fix the leak is it a matter of changing a seal or something ?
Excellent film and very informative. Thank you.
My pleaure
Thanks, Iam going to do mine soon, very well explained!
Thanks for the comments...good luck
treat the half tank mark as if it is the empty mark....the fuel in the tank keeps the pump cool and you don,t want to be sucking in dirt from the bottom of the tank by running low.
Fantastic informative video, thank you!
My pleasure , TXS
Great video. Well done.
Thank you
Can someone kindly help me with a step by step video for removing and replacing a high pressure diesel pump on a landrover defender Puma td5 wagon
Hi All
Please note I had problems with my defender 90 2.5 TDI engine losing power and cutting off.
Found the fuel injectors washers and O ring defected.
Replaced and the Landy running good.
I hope this helps Landy owners with same problems.
Thanks
Now I get it. Thank you!
My pleasure
Thank you for the very informative video. In my case, I've installed a new AMC cylinder head and all new injectors and new LR copper washers and seals and still have diesel fuel in the oil ( sump level raising). From your video it seems that I should replace the seals again, but as mentioned, they are all brand new! Its a real mystery!! Ant thoughts?
only use geniune LR copper washers and seals on the injectors Jeremy
Glad it helped, and yes you might have to do so
@@maz1984 thanks....i'll try again, although as mentioned, I did use LR genuine parts the first time. oh well.....
@@D3Sshooter Thank you. Your videos are a great help!
It's spelt "whining" my good fellows. The root word is whine (hwīn, wīn). I have heard that the English language is made from words that it gathers, by chasing them down small laneways and clubbing them to death.
Justin Global txs. I am not a native speaker. But txs
I lived in UK and now living in Ireland for last 7 years and most of the English native speakers have no clue how to spell or write correctly in their own mother language. So give the man a thumbs up for the informative video he made :)
My 2002 td5 110 died on me whilst driving down the highway. She idles fine but struggles to start only when cold. The pump is making a wining noise but has been since i bought her. She would loose power but not often at all. When she does start I get a cloud of white smoke out the exhaust, probably from excess diesel not burning. Anyway cutting out on the highway I got her started again after about 20 min. Made it about 5km to the farm and she died again, had to tow her home. The following day she started again but might be because she was at an angle. The fuel was at about a quarter tank during all this. Let her idle for another 20 min and seemed fine so I parked her on a level parking surface. The following day she was dead again... So ill fill her up with diesel and see if my suspicion is true that there is an air leak in the tank.
Mat , check the airventing valve. Its an insert on the fuelfilter on the right rear chassis . That is sometimes the cause
Thank you, i`ll change it anyway as this is probably the cheapest. I`ll post on the results.
So.. The local landy expert was dead certain that it was the fuel pump... Replaced it to find she is still cutting out and pump is still whining... Now the verdict is injectors are not working properly and the smoke is caused by oil seaping into the cylinder due to bad oil rings.. Looks like im in for new injectors and oil rings.
Mat that is also possible but the fuelpump noise is typical air and has little to see with the injectors oilrings. So, i doubts if replacing the oilseal rings is going to help.
They think it is the piston oil seals. They are going to try other injectors from another td5 and see if it makes a difference. Im not sure what to think of it as costs are going through the roof. It is not cheap living in South Africa. Thank you for the reply!
Hi there
Would you be able to tell me what bumber/winch is on this defender? Cheers
My 110 TD5 has the same sound!!! Is this a sign of impending pump failure.....
Possible, but check first all the other area's before changing the fuelpomp as that is a major job
Hello, I am from Iraq, I have a Defender 110 of the 1986 model. I want to buy a gas oil engine. Can you advise me
Not sure what you are asking but the TD5 is a very good option
Hi!!!
Great video!!!
My disco 04 td5 every 3 4 miles stop engine end start very hard ...
Is this fuel pump or something else ...?
Kostas Evia thanks for the comments, that might very well be the case. It will manifest itself especially after a long period of parking time. Than it will be hard to start and the pump will make a lot of noise. Also, while driving under conditions that demand a lot fuel the pump will suffer and engine might lose power or even stall due to fuel starbation
Fine video. I have a problem with my defender td5 which recently overheated badly. The coolant leaks have been repaired. However, the engine will start and run for about half a mile and then cuts out completely. The fuel pump was replace recently but is now extremely noisy.
It has been suggested that the injector washers should be replaced. Would you agree that this could be my problem?
That is hard to say, after an over heating problem many things can go wrong. The first thing I would do is to read out the ECU fault codes. NANO COM is a great tool and affordable to do so... You may just have a duff sensor, or a real problem/// for instance if the intake manifold pressure is over the limit (upper) and your turbo waste gate is not working then the ECU will cut out the fuel to the injectors. This could simple be a MAP sensor problem...(manifold absolute pressure sensor) given you a false reading. The injector washer should not cause the engine to stall, it might make it run rough. I rather think that the ECU is cutting the fuel due to an over limit sensor situation... try first reading the fault codes, and after that take a real time reading while driving of the ECU and plot it.... you might see what is running up.... I still think that the MAP or engine temp sensor plays part.
Hi There, great videos and thanks to all the ones sharing knowledge. I have a 110 TD5 with a wining pump (been winning for many years though without problem). I think I have an air leak in my system. After 5 km, the engine cuts off an I have to prime the system (key on and 5 times pressing the gas pedal). If I do that the engine will start, but after approx 5 km it will stall again - and won't start without doing another priming sequence. Do you think it maybe one of the 2 valves from the fuel filter housing? Thanks!
I would not be surprised if that was the issue, try to fill the tank for 100% and see than.... In almost all cases the winning noise is the result of air in the circuit.... Have you read the error codes of the ECU and temp readings ? Try that as well , as it will give you an indication why the engine stalls.... It may just be the ECU that cuts out because of an out of range sensor reading.... But most likely its and airleak at those valves or some tubes
how can I tell if the bleeding valves are not operating correctly ? my engine can cut out anywhere and can struggle to restart I have this problem with some time now its getting worse I suspect air in the system but even after bleeding it it might go for a day abd then struggle to start or just cut out on the road .
Hi, Well that could be your fuel pump, does it make a sound ?. And does it also happen with a full fuel tank ? If its OK with a full fuel tank than I would suspect the fuel-pump. There is also a small valve on the fuel filter inside the tubing on the fuel-filter housing ( on the chassis side rear). That can be wrong , you can see that in my video. The other possibility is a faulty fuel pressure regulator, you could measure the pressure on the pressure side and return...all that is in one of the video's on how the fuel system works... have a look
@@D3Sshooter thanks for replying yes it happens with a full tank actually seems to happen more with the tank full ,yes it makes a wineing sound when you first turn on the ignition and can often continue for some time also what is strange is often if I enter a roundabout to fast and I get some body roll it can often cuts the feul off and if I continue to press the gas pedal it will resume again. its my first defender so im not familiar with them thanks.
The wineing sound is an indication of a bad fuel pump, or worn one. Certainly on a full tank. It sounds like you have air going into the system, with air pockets that move when the vehicle rolls. My first check would be the fuel filter, and the associated venting valve on the top of the return feed ... have a look on the video, I show the location in that. Also check that all houses are air tied on the connectors. If possible check the fuel pressure and when all that is good I would consider changing the fuel pump. That is a hard job as you need to remove the fuel tank to get access and the pump is not that cheap. Another possibility is that you have water or lots of sludge in the fuel tank.
@@D3Sshooter I appreciate that you took the time out to reply with a detailed list of possible cause I be sure to check all the above and try find the problem I will let you know if these will solve the problem and thanks again and hello from ireland im a subscriber to your channel .
@@tq5523 , my pleasure and txs. let us know ok if you found the problem
Ahh wow so different to a mechanical diesel motor. Pump in the tank!
TXS for the comments yep
Thank you for your recent reply. I live in the West of Ireland and do not have access to analytical testing. I have fitted a new battery and can now start the engine without any problems. No white or black smoke from the exhaust. The engine will run for 22 mins on tick over and then cuts out! Do you have any suggestions of what might be the fault? Having watched your videos, which are marvellous, I am beginning to think that it might be a fuel temperature cut off issue. I'm basing my thoughts on the fact that the engine running for 22 mins will allow heat to build up to a certain temperature when some form of designed or faulty component cuts in to stop any pending damage. Have you any further thoughts? Many thanks in anticipation of your kind help.
That is very well possible as the ECU has its over and under ratings whereby it will cut the fuel. The only way to check is to have a read out of the ECU.. Try to find an enthusiast who might have a NANOCOM. Note that this is a fairly cheap device that works very well..... The normal working temperatures are : Engine = +/- 85 degrees centigrade, Fuel temperature =+/-61,5 at about 20 degrees ambient .... you could try to measure those with a infrared temperature meter.... or even better a read out of the ECU..
Hi - I'm in West ROI too - with the same fuel related problem. Its a 2006 110 Td5.... fancy meeting over a beer to discuss? I also have a NANOCOM reader......
My td5 defender cranks but doesn't start
Thanks for the comments, well that could be many reasons. Did you check the fuel pressure ?