Nice to find you. I've concentrated my recent time and money on archery, and so to prepare for a camping trip I grabbed a hawk from India, but it wound up being better than many. It's something to play with and if we stick with it we'll get a nice one. God bless, man. Praise God in Christ Jesus.
@@wbf7773 thanks for that paper and wood hardener idea. Im going to need this. I have several handles that came too short, leaving me no excess. This idea is perfect.
How do use a tiny piece of leather just slide it in right before you tap the head on that makes it so it doesn’t slip and when I throw it, it usually doesn’t pop off
Do you fit paper before oiling the handle? Or later? I tested fit on my old one and it really grabs. But have not treated new handle yet. The fit on this now is solid.
I would be interested to read WBF777 reply to your question. I would 'think' the answer would be, it depends on user goal. Two examples of my thoughts as follows: Consider/remember, paper is a pulp product (aka wood). 1) If the goal is to secure the head to haft more permanently, before oiling as the oil absorbed into the wood would act as a release agent precluding the glue from sticking to the wood. Using the paper and adhesive as discussed (before oiling haft) would provide adhesive attachment of head to haft. 2) If the goal is to provide superior contact between head & haft, but still allow handle to be removed for various applications, pre-oiling haft could work as a release agent (mentioned above in 1) and the paper slip sheet impregnated with adhesive would function as a custom molded filled sheet that could function to fill unevenness in the eye and the haft. Upon removal of the head, the adhesive impregnated paper would stay attached to the wood haft.
I just pound the handle down into the head until its ridiculously tight and almost shaving pieces of the wood off at the top, then I hammer a short roofer's nail down into the top to act like a wedge.
Hey there! Excuse my newbie approach to the subject, I got a problem: I bought some rather large, definitely not-a-tomahawk cold steel axes and a warhammer, that are supposed to have their heads affixed tomahawk-style. I learnt all I could about that bit, but thing is, being large weapons, and finding myself unable to replace the shafts due to my Country being on full quarantine, and last but not least, wanting to have those heads there permanently, I was wondering... ...Once I got maximum head to wood contact (easy jokes, anyone? Easy jokes? Alright), if I make some linear carvings where the head would end up being, and then use the paper trick - BUT, using nylon instead, covered up with epoxy glue, and removing the nylon at the last possible moment, effectively leaving the contacting surfaces drenched with thick glue, would this work? The linear carvings would be there to send glue some millimeters into the shaft's body, and keep the head attached should the wood shrink a bit at some point. Thank you very much for the video, my apologies for the phonebook-long question. May you have a great day, and my best wishes for these awful times.
I think that could work. I would first dry the handle as much as possible. If it is short enough you could put it in your oven on warm for an hour or so. This would shrink the wood as far as possible and make it more likely to stay tight. It is possible though that the handle could crack if it has a high moisture content.
@@wbf7773 Thank you so much sir! Sounds terrific! The handles, unfortunately, would stick outta the oven's door. But it doesn't mean that the important half couldn't be dried as much as possible! I think I'll try with one first (will use the typical precautions to avoid unnecessary burning damage, like aluminum foil wrapping, hopefully it should work). Thanks again for the amazing tip sir!
Love you paper and tiny jokes.As I learned I was smilling
Great learning here
Thanks now what's next
Nice to find you. I've concentrated my recent time and money on archery, and so to prepare for a camping trip I grabbed a hawk from India, but it wound up being better than many. It's something to play with and if we stick with it we'll get a nice one. God bless, man. Praise God in Christ Jesus.
Jesus First To-the-Point End Time Signs thank you for your kind words
the real trick is drilling a hole all the way though to make a pipe hawk. THats when the problems start lol
That is one smart looking tool sir. Well done!
Great video.
This is a really enjoyable process.
DriveOnParkway ParkOnDriveway thank you
@@wbf7773 i just got 3 new sticks in the mail.. cant wait to fashion them.
@@wbf7773 thanks for that paper and wood hardener idea. Im going to need this. I have several handles that came too short, leaving me no excess.
This idea is perfect.
Definitely the wood hardener and paper has yet to fail for us and we have done several
Nice work, that is how I do it! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you very much. I got a Cold Steel hawk that has the wood curls you described.
Good video thanks.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
How do use a tiny piece of leather just slide it in right before you tap the head on that makes it so it doesn’t slip and when I throw it, it usually doesn’t pop off
Awesome video thanks for sharing
You are very welcome!
Nice job!
Do you fit paper before oiling the handle? Or later? I tested fit on my old one and it really grabs. But have not treated new handle yet. The fit on this now is solid.
I would be interested to read WBF777 reply to your question.
I would 'think' the answer would be, it depends on user goal. Two examples of my thoughts as follows:
Consider/remember, paper is a pulp product (aka wood).
1) If the goal is to secure the head to haft more permanently, before oiling as the oil absorbed into the wood would act as a release agent precluding the glue from sticking to the wood. Using the paper and adhesive as discussed (before oiling haft) would provide adhesive attachment of head to haft.
2) If the goal is to provide superior contact between head & haft, but still allow handle to be removed for various applications, pre-oiling haft could work as a release agent (mentioned above in 1) and the paper slip sheet impregnated with adhesive would function as a custom molded filled sheet that could function to fill unevenness in the eye and the haft. Upon removal of the head, the adhesive impregnated paper would stay attached to the wood haft.
I just pound the handle down into the head until its ridiculously tight and almost shaving pieces of the wood off at the top, then I hammer a short roofer's nail down into the top to act like a wedge.
Awesome video sir can you please make video on the Viking axe
Thank you for your comments. We hope to add a Viking Axe video in the near future!
Hey there! Excuse my newbie approach to the subject, I got a problem: I bought some rather large, definitely not-a-tomahawk cold steel axes and a warhammer, that are supposed to have their heads affixed tomahawk-style. I learnt all I could about that bit, but thing is, being large weapons, and finding myself unable to replace the shafts due to my Country being on full quarantine, and last but not least, wanting to have those heads there permanently, I was wondering...
...Once I got maximum head to wood contact (easy jokes, anyone? Easy jokes? Alright), if I make some linear carvings where the head would end up being, and then use the paper trick - BUT, using nylon instead, covered up with epoxy glue, and removing the nylon at the last possible moment, effectively leaving the contacting surfaces drenched with thick glue, would this work?
The linear carvings would be there to send glue some millimeters into the shaft's body, and keep the head attached should the wood shrink a bit at some point.
Thank you very much for the video, my apologies for the phonebook-long question. May you have a great day, and my best wishes for these awful times.
I think that could work. I would first dry the handle as much as possible. If it is short enough you could put it in your oven on warm for an hour or so. This would shrink the wood as far as possible and make it more likely to stay tight. It is possible though that the handle could crack if it has a high moisture content.
@@wbf7773 Thank you so much sir! Sounds terrific! The handles, unfortunately, would stick outta the oven's door. But it doesn't mean that the important half couldn't be dried as much as possible! I think I'll try with one first (will use the typical precautions to avoid unnecessary burning damage, like aluminum foil wrapping, hopefully it should work).
Thanks again for the amazing tip sir!
Whats the ideal lenght or does it madder?
For a Tomahawk it’s normally 18 inches