Hi Stevie, another excellent video 👏 Sometimes I do prefer the shadows of interiors without adjusting anything, solely for the artistic look. However your Raw file edits show great improvements particularly to the exterior shots in that dull weather. As we used to say in the film days, “There is more in the negative to come” That’s looks like a lovely house to visit. Your photos are spot on!
Yeah, I'm often a fan of moody, deep shadows. I feel some people ALWAYS seem to bring the shadows up and, for me, that's just not always necessary. The Vyne is very impressive - not at all what I expected for a Tudor house. It has a really interesting history too. Thanks for your kind words and for watching (as always).
Good shots Stevie. The edited raws look improved over the jpgs on my tablet. I also shoot jpg and raw but sometimes struggle when editing raws to improve on the jpg, especially when dealing with high dynamic range scenes. I don't know if you've considered doing a video about how you edit using Darktable but if you have I'd be interested.
@@arrow501 yeah, I'll put something together re Darktable. There are a number of 'standard' (for my workflow) steps that I pretty much always go through. Thanks for watching and for you kind comments.
Nice shots and talkthrough, thanks, b&w chair (8:25) and tree silhoutte through window (11:47) stood out to me. I'm trying SOOC JPG for a while after realizing I'm more or less clueless when editing RAW and was hardly ever pulling as much DR as you did here anyway nor rescuing the odd AWB mismatch. It's not a principle or a new goal to never edit again but I find it reasonable to learn better in-camera skills first. Rob Treks settings and use of the highlight/shadow curve helped a lot, from his How to Get That Olympus PenF Monochrome Look - th-cam.com/video/P2LPWCpmgdg/w-d-xo.html
Rob Trek is a great resource for Olympus! I'll take a look at that video. I enjoy the challenge of editing, and sometimes you can find something extra that you just didn't envisage that the time you pressed the shutter. Getting it as close as possible in-camera is always my ultimate goal. Thanks for watching (and for the link).
@@stevieb7121 AFAIK all in-camera options are available in OM Workspace. In that case I might as well shoot RAW only and do the JPG processing in post there. Probably more convenient and practical than in-camera fiddling (even though the E-M10 II LCD is excellent) and you can then just dial in preferred JPG profiles afterwards when sorted. One of my RAW editor routines was to make a copy with a basic b&w profile anyway, just for a quick how-does-that-look check. I found the Grainy Film II art filter somewhat usable to my taste as are some of the colour ones. ART bracketing eats battery pretty fast btw. As mentioned the highlight/shadow curve is the key setting I've discovered to make acceptable SOOC JPGs with good contrast vs. chosen exposure.
@@KelvinSchwartzGrunlicht Sounds good. OM Workspace is pretty good but, when I'm working on an image, the screen doesn't seen to refresh fully and consistently - it looks like a large thumbnail - which it isn't but it still doesn't show the full level of detail in the screen rendering. That could just be the way my setup is. Otherwise I think it's a good tool.
Hi Stevie, another excellent video 👏
Sometimes I do prefer the shadows of interiors without adjusting anything, solely for the artistic look.
However your Raw file edits show great improvements particularly to the exterior shots in that dull weather.
As we used to say in the film days, “There is more in the negative to come”
That’s looks like a lovely house to visit. Your photos are spot on!
Yeah, I'm often a fan of moody, deep shadows. I feel some people ALWAYS seem to bring the shadows up and, for me, that's just not always necessary. The Vyne is very impressive - not at all what I expected for a Tudor house. It has a really interesting history too.
Thanks for your kind words and for watching (as always).
Good shots Stevie. The edited raws look improved over the jpgs on my tablet. I also shoot jpg and raw but sometimes struggle when editing raws to improve on the jpg, especially when dealing with high dynamic range scenes. I don't know if you've considered doing a video about how you edit using Darktable but if you have I'd be interested.
@@arrow501 yeah, I'll put something together re Darktable. There are a number of 'standard' (for my workflow) steps that I pretty much always go through.
Thanks for watching and for you kind comments.
raw + jpg is best. You can quickly post the good jpg pictures. Then you can edit the raw files.
Yep, I used to shoot raw only but I'm becoming a convert!
Thanks for watching.
Some nice images stevie
Thank you, and thanks for watching!
Nice shots and talkthrough, thanks, b&w chair (8:25) and tree silhoutte through window (11:47) stood out to me.
I'm trying SOOC JPG for a while after realizing I'm more or less clueless when editing RAW and was hardly ever pulling as much DR as you did here anyway nor rescuing the odd AWB mismatch. It's not a principle or a new goal to never edit again but I find it reasonable to learn better in-camera skills first.
Rob Treks settings and use of the highlight/shadow curve helped a lot, from his How to Get That Olympus PenF Monochrome Look - th-cam.com/video/P2LPWCpmgdg/w-d-xo.html
Rob Trek is a great resource for Olympus! I'll take a look at that video. I enjoy the challenge of editing, and sometimes you can find something extra that you just didn't envisage that the time you pressed the shutter. Getting it as close as possible in-camera is always my ultimate goal.
Thanks for watching (and for the link).
@@stevieb7121 AFAIK all in-camera options are available in OM Workspace. In that case I might as well shoot RAW only and do the JPG processing in post there. Probably more convenient and practical than in-camera fiddling (even though the E-M10 II LCD is excellent) and you can then just dial in preferred JPG profiles afterwards when sorted.
One of my RAW editor routines was to make a copy with a basic b&w profile anyway, just for a quick how-does-that-look check.
I found the Grainy Film II art filter somewhat usable to my taste as are some of the colour ones. ART bracketing eats battery pretty fast btw.
As mentioned the highlight/shadow curve is the key setting I've discovered to make acceptable SOOC JPGs with good contrast vs. chosen exposure.
@@KelvinSchwartzGrunlicht Sounds good. OM Workspace is pretty good but, when I'm working on an image, the screen doesn't seen to refresh fully and consistently - it looks like a large thumbnail - which it isn't but it still doesn't show the full level of detail in the screen rendering. That could just be the way my setup is. Otherwise I think it's a good tool.